Color brushing. Brushing – giving the wood an original look. Instructions for brushing wood yourself

This is a technology for artificial aging of wood. Its essence lies in the mechanical selection of soft fibers and the creation of a relief surface with a pronounced structure of growth rings. The term brushing or brushing comes from English word brush - brush - it is used as the main tool for removing soft fibers.

The principle of brushing is to imitate the natural aging process of wood. Soft fibers that form in the spring during the period of active tree growth have a looser structure. They are more susceptible to weathering and abrasion than solid rings that form in summer and autumn. Thus, under the influence of external factors, wood acquires a pronounced textured surface over time.

What wood is used for brushing?

Soft and medium-hard trees with a clearly defined tree-ring texture are optimal for brushing. Artificial aging is well imitated on boards made of pine, larch, and walnut.

An interesting effect, although not so deep, is obtained when using harder species: oak, ash.

Brushing is not used (or is complicated) for such species as beech, maple, pear, alder, teak. The technology is also ineffective for most tropical trees, in which, due to climate conditions, the separability of annual rings is practically absent.

Brushing plywood and veneered boards is an acceptable technology. Careful texturing of the veneer allows you to achieve a slight relief, making the plain surface of the plywood more expressive. Brushing is also successfully used to decorate wooden lining.

About invoicing technologies

Various technologies are used to texture wood. The choice of one method or another is determined primarily by the volume of work and the characteristics of the workpieces. There are several techniques for aging wood.

Brushing with hand tools- This is the most primitive technology based on the use of a brush with stiff metal bristles. This method provides shallow texturing of the surface and is quite labor-intensive. But it is great for single-piece production of small parts.

Brushing with electromechanical tools– the most widespread, affordable and productive technology that is used for texturing boards in home and industrial settings. The main tool for selecting soft fibers is brush attachments on a grinder or drill, as well as special brushing machines.

Brushing on machines– industrial technology oriented towards mass production of parts. In one pass through the machine, the wooden workpiece is subjected to full cycle brushing – processed with metal, grinding and polishing brushes.

Sandblasting- a less popular technology in which surface wood fibers are removed not with metal brushes, but with a jet of sand supplied under pressure. The texture has soft variations, deep relief and does not require additional sanding. The technology is focused on industrial volumes.

How to brush wood yourself?

The most accessible and effective technology in this matter is the use of an electromechanical tool - this can be either a special brushing machine or brush attachments on an angle grinder, drill or angle grinder.

The essence of texturing is the sequential processing of wood with three types of brushes. At all stages, work with the tool is carried out strictly along the fibers.

First stage– surface treatment with a metal brush. Stiff bristles made of steel or brass remove soft fibers, creating a textured surface relief.

Second phase– intermediate grinding with a nylon brush with abrasive pressed into the bristles. This treatment allows you to clean out damaged fibers, remove raised lint inside the recesses, and smooth out the sharp edges of hard fibers.

Third stage– cleaning, smoothing and polishing. The final working pass is made with a soft brush with sisal bristles.

The productivity of surface processing - speed, depth and quality of sampling - depends on the rigidity of the metal bristles. Therefore, for brushing hard wood, it is advisable to use stiffer brushes.

Is it really that simple?

No, not all of them. Of course, if a small part is being textured, for example, the lid of a wooden box, there will not be any particular difficulties. But when processing large surfaces or mass production of parts, a technology that seems simple at first glance reveals many pitfalls.

What should you be prepared for?

When working with large volumes of wood productivity conventional drill or an angle grinder is often not enough. Working under wear increases the likelihood of tool failure. This problem is partly solved by reducing the speed, but this is reflected in a decrease in process productivity.
Holding the tool working on maximum speed, requires considerable physical effort. The brushing process itself is very long and requires constant monitoring, otherwise the uniformity of the relief cannot be guaranteed; Another common defect is the appearance of burns.
Working with resinous wood has its own specifics. Due to high friction, brushing brushes heat up the surface being treated. This leads to resin bleeding, which adds headaches during the work and finishing stage.

For a true master, the ability to age wooden decor with his own hands should not be a problem, especially since this technique is used quite often. We have described for you the technique of performing the work and compiled a list of tools for brushing wooden products with your own hands.

What wood to use

The essence of brushing is a more vivid manifestation of the texture of wood, its natural pattern. This is achieved by creating a relief surface from which soft fibers are removed, while hard fibers, on the contrary, remain. Hence the first obvious truth: there must be fibers of different densities in wood.

Therefore, species with a uniform, dense structure, such as maple, beech, alder or teak, are not suitable for brushing. But this does not mean that hard wood cannot be aged by brushing. For example, when processing oak boards, a very interesting effect is achieved: the appearance of thin, ragged scratches, which, if painted correctly, makes such products a very valuable decoration.

Coniferous species look best after brushing. The most common pine has a poor texture, and the pattern after processing is unlikely to surprise anyone. But in spruce and larch truly unique patterns appear.

Any wood for brushing must be well planed and free from any kind of defects and blemishes; brushing will not eliminate them. The moisture content of wood should ideally be 10-12%, but in any case not more than 15%, otherwise the fibers will tear and form abundantly fine pile.

Brushes and other tools

The main work when brushing is done with brushes. These are fairly coarse metal disc-type brushes with brass or steel bristles. It is desirable that the brush has a wide end part and is close in shape to the roller - this way the processing will be more uniform. The thickness of the wire depends entirely on the type of wood: the pile should be 7-10 times thinner than the soft veins, while straight wires are preferable to “curly” ones.

The brushes select the bulk of the fibers, but the surface remains too rough and fleecy. The quality of processing can be improved with the help of synthetic nylon brushes, in which abrasive powder of different fractions is fused into the thickness of the plastic. This type of sanding helps eliminate most of the small nicks and lint that interfere with painting; without them, the surface looks cleaner and more pleasant.

The third stage of processing is usually avoided, but if you want a premium surface quality, then brushed wood will have to be polished. Due to the presence of pores, this is not easy to do; it is necessary to use brushes with hard natural bristles, for example, sisal or coarse wool.

Good processing quality is achieved, as a rule, when using power tools. A drill will be preferable to an angle grinder; when working with it, it is easier to control the direction of grinding and speed. Careful fixation of the workpiece is also necessary; a pair of clamps will come in handy. And, of course, you will need means of protection against dust, which is generated more than abundantly, and its removal: a vacuum cleaner, glasses and gloves will definitely not be superfluous.

Work order

At the first stage of processing, the dry and clean surface of the wood is treated with rough brushing, tearing out the soft layers to the desired depth. The most reasonable thing would be to orient the front surfaces of the parts across the layers of fibers, where there are many veins and they are thin. But do not forget that all visible planes must be processed, otherwise the contrast will be too noticeable.

You need to move the brush strictly along the fibers without strong pressure. Small irregularities on the plane will inevitably remain; this is the main disadvantage (or advantage) of manual wood processing. The number of revolutions is 1500-2200, although for different breeds this value may vary.

The main nice thing about brushing is that it opens up a wide field for experimentation and can be used with deviations from the basic rules if visual design goals require it. For example, when you tear wood across the grain, you leave a random pattern of rough scratches, which can be useful for rare decorative inserts.

After brushing the wood, it’s time for sanding. A synthetic abrasive brush is directed along the fibers until roughness visible to the naked eye is completely eliminated. From time to time, the workpiece needs to be tapped on the back side to remove accumulated dust from the pores and evaluate the quality of processing. After removing the lint and burrs, it’s time for polishing to give the surface smoothness and a slight gloss. This can be done either with a brush on a drill or manually using the hard part of a kitchen sponge.

Features of working with floor coverings

Not only furniture elements, platbands and all kinds of decor can be brushed. This processing technique is often used to simulate aging of parquet and parquet board.

The main difficulty in working with wooden floors is large volume works The drill is of little use here: uniformity of processing and productivity suffer. At such volumes, it is reasonable to purchase or temporarily use a brush sander. This will allow you to maintain a uniform scratch depth with the brush and then quickly sand over a large area.

For the floor, it is not recommended to show deep wood relief, otherwise the coating will get very dirty and difficult to wash. The optimal depth is 0.5-0.8 mm, so the wood on the floor will become warm and pleasantly rough, and the unnatural gloss will disappear.

Processing, painting, patination

Texturing wood is only half the battle. Brushing puts ultimate goal visual highlighting of wood texture; most often, this is achieved by painting using special techniques.

You need to make sure that the fiber selection is done well and the surface is ready for painting. For this purpose they use stains on water based with a light tanning or cauterizing effect. Application should be done with a brush, carefully wiping along the fibers and monitoring the lifting of small fibers during the process. If such are present, the surface must be thoroughly dried and lightly treated again with a grinding brush, breaking off dried and hardened burrs.

Instead of a brush, it is convenient to use a soft sponge - the paint is distributed more evenly and without excess

When painting, most often the arrangement of tones repeats the play of light and shadow on irregularities: depressions are painted in a dark color, ridges in a light color. To do this, the surface is first opened with a richly dark varnish, and then wiped with a sponge or rag, removing the remaining varnish from the hard fibers, where it does not have time to be absorbed.

When working on a large surface, uniform coloring is achieved after complete drying of the dark dye and subsequent light processing with a petal disc with grit P400-800. When the bulges are highlighted, they are opened with colorless or light-colored parquet varnish.

Another coloring option offers inversion: the upper tier of the relief is planned to be dark, and the depressions are painted in a light tone. In this case, the surface is first tinted with dark polyurethane varnish and dried. This is followed by the application of a light opaque composition, the excess of which is removed rubber spatula to reveal the dark background on the ridges.

Brushing

What is brushing

Brushing is a way decorative processing wood, in which soft wood fibers are selected on the front side of the product using a stiff brush, exposing the natural pattern of hard fibers.

The word comes from the English “brush” - brush.

Brushing is used for finishing parquet, engineered and solid boards, as well as wall and ceiling panels and other natural wood products.

Brushing treatment is typical for products made from species with a pronounced wood texture, most often oak, and is not used for species with a uniform pattern: alder, cherry, teak, beech, maple.

Brushed oak engineering board

Pros and cons of technology

Advantages

Brushing allows you to emphasize the naturalness of a wooden floor, which provides additional aesthetic pleasure when using it;
Brushed boards are used as a stylistic device in interior design, with which you can create a project in given style: classic, Provence, etc.

Brushed parquet in an interior with a classic design

Flaws

Brushed open-pore boards (under oil) require regular careful maintenance and are not suitable for high-traffic areas, since dust and dirt can accumulate between the hard fibers, which will damage them over time. appearance floor covering.

Aging and brushing

Artificial aging of wood products is not the same as brushing. Other technologies are also used for artificial aging: scraping, planing, tinting, painting, chamfering, firing, smoking, chemical treatment. The purpose of artificial aging is to give the product the appearance of a “worn-out” board (wall, door, furniture, etc.). At the same time, brushing is, of course, the most common method of aging, since time treats wood in a similar way: over time, softer fibers settle, leaving a relief pattern on the surface.

Aging of wood

However, much before this happens, the wood darkens, so along with brushing, various tinting is often used to give the parquet a stylistically consistent look.

Brushed Haro parquet collection

Brushing and toning

Brushed wood can be tinted in different ways:

The board is coated with tinted varnish or oil of the same tone immediately after brushing. This results in a uniform tone with visible pores.

The parquet is first tinted and then brushed. In this case, you get a tinted board with contrasting pores that emphasize its texture.

The brushed board is tinted and then sanded. The result is a contrasting parquet with pronounced colored pores.

Brushing technology

The technology includes three stages:

Sampling of soft fibers. Using special brushes manually or mechanized way, moving along the grain, they clean out soft wood, leaving harder structures.
Grinding. The surface is sanded with 60-100 grit sandpaper to remove burrs and make the surface smooth.
Polishing. The boards are polished in preparation for finishing coating varnish or oil.

Brushing and finishing

Decorative finishing by brushing is now found on both varnished and oiled (oil-wax) products. However, when varnished, a smooth surface is formed on the surface of the parquet board. protective film, which levels out the relief achieved by brushing.

Therefore, to maintain the true value of brushing, you need to use oil coating, as do the specialists of the brand, whose all “fermented” (Kahrs uses this transcription) collections are covered exclusively with silk oil. The oil penetrates deeply into the pores without filling them like varnish, so the effect of such treatment is not only visual, but also tactile.

Parquet / engineering / solid board Chabot Oak from the Coswick fermented collection

Brushing technique

Manual brushing is performed using a brush with metal bristles, as well as special attachments for a drill or grinder. Manual brushes are also used, for example, a brush Grinder Metabo.

The industry uses brushing machines that perform all stages of brushing in a few seconds.

Extent and types of processing

Based on the degree (depth) of brushing, the following types of treated parquet boards can be distinguished:

Structured board. The brushing is shallow, emphasizing the annual rings and the natural appearance of the wood. An example is from the Hungarian brand Grabo.

Highly structured. When brushing, deep furrows are created along natural lines, resulting in a pronounced natural wood pattern. An example is from the German manufacturer Haro.

Retro. Brushing is used in complex aging technology. The impression of parquet that has been used for a long time is achieved. Example - (Haro).

Retro 3D. Heavily aged parquet, with deep, uneven chamfers and emphasized knots, has been used for generations. Example - (Bassano Parquet).

Do-it-yourself wood brushing is an interesting technology that allows you to artificially age wood. The natural aging process takes decades. But now, with the help of special tools, this effect can be achieved at home quickly and without significant material expenditure. Aged material is ideal for decoration in classic, vintage and rustic styles.

Do-it-yourself wood brushing: how the process is carried out

Residents of modern cities increasingly prefer styles with a clearly emphasized individuality when decorating their premises: classic, vintage, rustic and country.

The main detail of such interiors is wood. Thanks to this material, the design of the room acquires uniqueness and unique charm. But for a classic and vintage style, wood in its original natural form is not suitable. IN in this case The best choice is aged wood, which has a more attractive and noble appearance. This material is suitable for making any decorative element: a vintage lamp, a wooden chest of drawers, stylish doors And window frames, fireplace lining.

IN natural conditions The aging process of wood drags on for decades, since the original patterns on the surface of the wood are formed slowly and unevenly. Therefore, this material is rare and expensive. But among modern technologies there is a simple and quick way artificial aging of wood. This process is called brushing. Interest in this method is shown not only by lovers of luxury vintage furniture, but also by those who want to diversify interior interior country houses.

Do-it-yourself aging of wood (brushing) is a decorative technology for processing wooden products, during which an artificial antique effect is created for an ordinary wooden surface. The method gets its name from the English word brush. The aging process is also called wood structuring.

The artificial brushing method is based on the difference in hardness of the layers that make up the wood. During the work process, the soft light layer is removed. As a result, the areas become embossed, which gives the material special look, characteristic only of fairly old trees.

The depth of brushing the board depends on its purpose. If it is necessary to create the effect of deep aging, then the depth of irregularities and roughness can be up to 2-3 mm. Deep wood relief is not recommended for flooring, otherwise the coating will get very dirty and difficult to clean. The optimal depth is 0.5-0.8 mm.

Wood aging methods: basic information

Special tools and techniques are used to structure wood. It is based mechanical restoration wood using special metal brushes that remove the upper soft fibers. Thanks to this, the hard surface is visible more clearly, forming a beautiful relief. But this is not the entire process of wood processing.

To emphasize the appearance and make the structure more distinct, the material is coated with special paints that have natural shades. Coloring is carried out unevenly: the depressions become more dark color, and the surface texture is light. This makes the relief more noticeable.

Helpful advice! So that the artificially aged material is as similar as possible to wood that has been aged naturally, you need to paint it in grey colour. In this case, the paint, even before it dries completely, must be smeared from the relief surface. This will create the effect of a tree standing under open air about 10 years.

It is better not to use wood with a fine-grained and unclearly defined structure, since the brushing method is ineffective for such species. The following trees are not suitable for aging:

maple;

alder;
cherry;
birch;

Both soft and hard woods are suitable for aging wood. The main requirement is that the material has a clearly defined texture and that layers of different hardness are visible. Wood brushing is best done on the following species:

pine;
ash;
nut;
larch;
wenge.

It is preferable to use wood for artificial structuring coniferous species. The most affordable is pine. But this tree does not have a beautiful and unusual pattern. And, unfortunately, brushing the pine will not greatly improve this situation. If you use larch and spruce, the result of using the method will delight you with a unique pattern and rich texture.

Aging technology allows you to create unusual textures that are suitable for interiors different styles. Structured wood is used to create elements decorative finishing, furniture, floors. Brushed furniture looks unique and very beautiful.

Do-it-yourself wood aging: benefits of brushing

Unlike the natural aging process, wood structuring helps to increase the strength of the material and its longevity. Brushing also prevents the material from rotting and damage from fungi and insects. This occurs due to the use of special antiseptic agents to protect the wooden surface.

The result of brushing is an excellent appearance of the material, meeting the latest fashion trends. Using a variety of woodworking tools and equipment, you can get a lot of exclusive items and interior details. At the same time, an artificial imitation of exotic types of wood will be created, the cost of which is significantly higher than the original price of the lumber used.

Woodworking tools: brushes, machines and machines

At first glance, the process of artificial structuring may seem very complicated. But the method of brushing wood with your own hands is the most affordable and easiest way to visually age a natural material. Even an inexperienced master can do this.

To complete this task you will need a minimum of equipment. In addition, brushing technology allows you to achieve excellent result both manually and mechanized. Depending on the chosen method, the master will need different tools.

Brushing wood: toolfor manual processing

During work, you will need certain tools for brushing wood.

Metal hand brushes are used to roughly remove soft fibers from the surface of the part, while leaving the hard ones intact. They are used for primary wood processing. The stiffness of the bristles depends on the length of the wire: the shorter it is, the stiffer the bristles. At the first stage of processing, it is better to give preference to a brush with the stiffest bristles. It is desirable that the brush has a wide end part and is close in shape to a roller. This shape guarantees a more uniform processing of the wood.

A hand chisel is a tool that can be used to make deep longitudinal grooves of various curvatures in wood fiber. With skillful use of this tool, you can obtain maximum realistic material by applying deep cracks.

Coarse sandpaper for polishing is used to highlight the texture of the material, making the natural pattern more clear. For achievement optimal result During work, it is necessary to move the sandpaper along the fibers with pressure. By using paper with different grain sizes, you can get grooves of different depths and degrees of expression.

A grinder equipped with special attachments for brushing wood is used on initial stage for roughing and finishing wood. At the beginning of the work, a metal brush attachment is used on the grinder to brush the wood, at the final stage - with copper or sisal bristles. Nowadays abrasive-polymer brushes are very popular. This tool makes it possible to selectively remove soft fibers without affecting the hard ones.

Helpful advice! If you don’t have a high-hardness brush, you can use a grinder to trim the pile. This will make the bristles harder. When selecting brush bristles, it is necessary to take into account that the bristles are 7-10 times thinner than the soft fibers of the wood. It is better to use a brush with straight bristles. When working with an abrasive-polymer brush, it is necessary to ensure that the surface of the wood does not burn when the robot operates at high speeds.

After the first stage of processing, experts advise burning the wood using a kerosene burner. Gas-burner not suitable for this type of work.

Firing with a kerosene burner will help complete the following stages of work:

remove small wood fibers;
dry upper layer wood;
emphasize and highlight the natural structure of wood.

Process automation: machines and machines for brushing wood

Mass production of artificially aged wood requires speed. Some stages of wood processing can be mechanized, which will simplify the work of obtaining aged wood. To do this, you will need drills with variable speed control and special brushing machines.

Let's look at the most popular models of specialized equipment for structuring wood.

Festool rustofix ras 180 stripping router or brush machine for brushing wood. Along with this tool, you can buy brushes for brushing wood. They come in three types:

steel wire brush for primary processing of boards;
synthetic bristle brush for intermediate sanding;
sisal or hair brushes for polishing the back surface of the product.

The Makita 974 sander is used for brushing wood. But during work, difficulties may arise with processing areas at the corners of the part. Therefore, at joints, it is recommended to use a special angle grinder with different attachments or use one mounted on an angle grinder nylon brush for brushing. This brush is highly wear-resistant and allows you to process the ends, edges and contours of parts with complex shapes.

The Felisatti AGF 110/1010E grinding machine is suitable for processing both smooth and uneven surfaces. Nylon and metal brushes are included with the tool.

Helpful advice! It only makes sense to buy a wood brushing machine if large volumes of work are planned. Brushes for brushing wood can be purchased either with the machine or purchased separately.

How to age wood with your own hands: technologies

The aging process opens up the widest possibilities for the master to change the structure and color of different types of wood. Before proceeding directly to structuring, the wood must be prepared. The material for brushing must be free of defects, nicks and irregularities, and the humidity must be 10-12%, but not more than 15%. If the wood does not meet these characteristics, then the wood fibers will tear during processing, and a beautiful result from structuring will not be obtained.

Let's take a closer look at the process of aging wood at home. Working with the material can be divided into several stages.

Before starting work, it is necessary to perform initial processing of the part, namely: moisten the wood. This will prevent dust from spreading throughout the room during operation.

Next, you will need a hand brush for processing. Depending on the hardness of the wood, we select the hardness of the metal brush for roughing. The bristles of the tool should easily remove soft surface fibers, but should not damage hard ones. It is necessary to move the brush in the direction of the fibers.

If you decide to automate the processing process using a brush for brushing wood on an angle grinder or a grinder, then you should remember that the movements are carried out along the fibers. It is necessary to move the tool with such intensity that the fibers are effectively scraped out.

You need to be careful when choosing the speed: too fast a brush speed can lead to baking of the wood. Using hand tools This problem does not arise, but more effort needs to be made. Also, manual processing will take time.

Helpful advice! It is better to select the speed on a separate small sample of wood. The optimal number of revolutions is 1500-2200, but it may differ for different breeds.

Then we carry out the initial grinding of the part. To do this, we use a polymer brush with an abrasive applied to it. This stage will remove roughness and fiber fragments from the surface of the part. Having removed everything unnecessary, you can evaluate how deep and high-quality the structuring of the wood is. If necessary, the grooves can be further deepened, making the structuring more distinct.

At the next stage, you can think about decorative design details. To do this, use a chisel to make indentations and grooves of arbitrary shape in different places on the part. In appearance, they will resemble cracks that appeared naturally.

Next comes the final polishing. To do this you will need a sisal or hair brush. This wood tool will give the detail a finished look, fully revealing all the decorative texture. At manual processing Instead of a brush, fine-grain sandpaper with an abrasive surface is used. It will allow you to create a perfectly polished surface of the workpiece.

Then the wood needs to be well dried. It must be completely cleaned of dust and thus prepared for further painting and varnishing.

The use of stain will age the product by creating contrasting textured patterns. Applying liberally and quickly removing excess will allow you to paint over parts with soft fibers and leave light areas with hard fibers. Soft fibers quickly absorb paint, which means they become dyed, while hard fibers do not have time to absorb the pigment during this time, so they remain light. Wood painted with gold or silver paint looks especially beautiful.

Against the background of the natural color of the wood, this pigment creates reflections on the surface of the part in the sun. This gives the product original decorativeness and luxury. The product will look especially presentable if the wood is patinated - painting over the deepest cracks with a darker paint.

At the final stage, the product is polished again to remove roughness and irregularities that appeared after painting.

Helpful advice! Varnishing is carried out on completely dry and cleaned wood. To paint brushed parquet, you must use a special parquet varnish. This will allow the finished coating to maintain its presentable appearance and performance characteristics for a long time.

Brushing wood: features of chemical structuring of wood

Brushing with chemicals is rare, even though the use of chemically active compounds greatly facilitates the process of artificial aging of wood. To carry out chemical treatment of wood, you must have special knowledge and ability to work with chemicals. In addition, the method has a drawback - it is not always possible to easily purchase the necessary reagents.

For chemical structuring wood requires acids: hydrochloric and sulfuric, alkali and ammonia. Reagents applied to the surface of the material corrode soft fibers. The master can only scrape off the unnecessary wood.

Stages of chemical brushing of wood:

Surface grinding and removal of dirt.
Apply a thin layer of chemicals to the surface of the part. During chemical structuring, it is necessary to monitor the evaporation of the reagents. If necessary, it is recommended to reapply them.
When Chemical substance will work, that is, it will soften the outer fibers, the part must be rinsed under running water and the remaining reagent must be removed with a soft bristle brush.
Next, the wood must be thoroughly dried, painted or varnished.

The availability and demand for brushing allows you to perform this method at home. When structuring wood, it is imperative to adhere to safety regulations. You should work with tools and a wood brushing machine carefully and carefully. All artificial structuring processes must be performed in special protective clothing, glasses and gloves. If antiseptic solutions are used during work or too much dust accumulates in the air from the wood, then you should work in a respirator.

Brushing a wooden surface is unusual way make a wooden product more beautiful, unusual and attractive. This method is very popular among interior designers and ordinary people, since anyone can perform artificial aging of wood. It takes a little time and effort to get luxury furniture or a chic original ceiling, stylized in antique style. For a better effect, you can patina the furniture.

Artificial brushing of wood: cost of work

The main task of brushing wood is to create and emphasize the unique texture of the surface of the board. The result is a material with a clearly visible pattern. natural material. The procedure is suitable for many types of material. The cost of standard brushing is 350 rubles. per sq. m. When ordering additional painting, the cost increases. The price of the work depends on the type of wood chosen, as well as on the size of the board.

The cost of each stage of artificial aging is usually calculated separately. You can order sanding separately or just impregnation. The most profitable option is a full brushing service from the beginning of work to the final coating with the purchase of material. It is possible to perform artificial structuring from your material.

Workshops that brush wood carry out an individual calculation of the cost of processing depending on the type of wood, the size of the product and the list of services.

Brushing is performed on any type of wooden materials:

bar;
lining;

planks;
block house;
planks.

Scope of application of wood structuring technology

The structuring method is very popular in the manufacture of interior items and room elements. Such wooden products will become an original addition to classic and vintage interiors. In addition, the advantage of brushing technology is the ability to independently create exclusive items. In addition, this method belongs to the category simple processes accessible to everyone.

Brushed boards are used to decorate fireplaces, shelves, columns, Wall panels, and also aged wood is used as ceiling beams. This material creates a unique ambiance for living rooms and halls, cafes and restaurants. The interior design is filled with aristocracy and luxury, and aged wood creates warmth and comfort in the room.

Looks stylish and sophisticated wooden furniture using brushed elements. Artificial aging and patination of wood with your own hands allows you to make absolutely any furniture: cabinets, chests of drawers, pegs, beds. The use of brushed elements in furniture and interior design has no restrictions or prohibitions - it all depends on your imagination and creativity.

The result of which is a change in appearance carpentry. Wood that has undergone such processing takes on the appearance of an old product. In other words, this is the process of artificial aging of the mentioned material.

Antique

A completely reasonable question may arise: “Why is all this necessary? After all, a new product is always better than an old one.” But only those who have never seen products made from brushed wood can ask this question. The texture of old wood is very expressive, and furniture made from it looks extremely impressive. They help create a special style and are an integral part of interiors stylized in the feudal era. Brushing wood makes it possible at the beginning of the third millennium to produce furniture that could decorate the knightly castles of the times. Therefore this technology is very promising and in demand in the joinery market. Entire log buildings are often subjected to artificial aging.

Technological features

The desired effect is achieved by treating the material with special metal brushes. The very name of this technological process comes from the English word "brush", which means "brush". Brushing of wood is achieved due to the fact that a rotating metal tool selects softer fibers located throughout the surface of the tree between the annual rings. After processing, a textured natural surface remains. The special expressive possibilities of wood are revealed during its subsequent processing and tinting coatings. Brushing technology is quite complex and time-consuming. But the achieved result fully justifies the effort expended.

Wood brushing: tools and equipment

Age wooden surface manually is very difficult. IN ideal Brushing of wood is carried out specifically for this purpose by a machine designed specifically for this purpose with a set of replaceable cylindrical brushes of different hardness. But such equipment is not cheap; a machine like this costs about a thousand dollars. If professional equipment for some reason is not available, you can use an angle grinder or a drill with a set of wire wheel brushes. Of course, to ensure the technological process, you need a special room with a workbench and clamps. At mass production carpentry with a brushed surface must have exhaust ventilation.

Brushing wood at home

Many craftsmen who are passionate about carpentry have tried aging wood at home. Despite the complexity of the process, it is quite accessible. A master who works for himself even has some advantages over professionals - no one rushes him. But brushing wood with your own hands requires, in addition to patience and qualifications, also the possession of at least a minimal tool base. You need a set of metal brushes and devices that give them rotation. The drive can be either stationary or manual. It should be understood that it makes sense to brush only wood with pronounced growth rings. There are types of wood that do not make sense to process in this way. These are primarily beech, maple, alder and teak. Annual rings are most clearly expressed in varieties such as ash, larch, oak and walnut. Or in such exotic ones as merbau and wenge. It should be understood that it is impossible to achieve the desired result with brushing brushes alone. An expressive texture is achieved by alternating brush and abrasive tools. Sanding machine pass over the surface even after applying the tint, this makes it more contrasting. At the end of the process, the product is coated with varnish. The coating can be either glossy or matte.

Safety precautions

Wood brushing involves the use of various types of electromechanical equipment. Its moving parts rotate at high speed and can pose a serious danger. To avoid injury, the workplace must be designed accordingly. The workpiece to be processed must be securely fixed with clamps or a stationary vice. During the brushing process, a lot of dust rises into the air, and sharp elements fly off from the wire brushes at high speed. Therefore, you should protect your respiratory organs with a respirator, and your eyes with special impact-resistant glasses. And, of course, this type of carpentry work should be performed outside of residential premises. As already mentioned, the use of exhaust ventilation is highly desirable.