How to properly insulate a balcony. Insulating a balcony (100 photos): step-by-step instructions, tips and recommendations from experts. Stages of repair work on the balcony

Many people want to expand living space your apartment and the easiest way to do this is by adding a balcony. But in order to make it suitable for living, it is necessary to take care of noise and waterproofing, as well as reducing the thermal conductivity of its walls. Although the process of insulating a balcony is not the easiest, it is quite possible to do it yourself. This article provides detailed instructions how to insulate a balcony yourself.

Materials for insulating balconies

The choice of material is one of the most important aspects, because each material has its own individual physical and chemical properties. Common materials include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, isolon, expanded clay, and polyurethane. Next, we will consider the pros and cons of each material.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam is a foamed material with a porous microstructure, produced on the basis of styrene. Available in the form of square or rectangular slabs.

low cost;
long service life;
has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
easy to install; moisture resistant;
insensitive to temperature fluctuations.

is destroyed when interacting with paints and varnishes;
very fragile.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam - made on the basis of polystyrene by extrusion. Available in the form of rectangular slabs.

low cost;
protects both from sunlight, and from frost;
has high insulation from noise and liquids;
easy to install;

fragile;
more expensive than foam.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from sedimentary, glass and volcanic natural materials. Available in slabs and rolls of varying densities.

good sound and heat insulation;
allows steam to pass through itself, preventing its accumulation;
fire resistant;
environmentally friendly

inconvenient for installation, causes itching upon contact with skin;
When heated, it releases poisonous phenol gas.

Izolon

Izolon is a two-layer insulation. The outside is covered with thick foil, and inside there is a material resembling multilayer foamed polyethylene. Most often used when insulating walls, behind radiators, because foil is an excellent reflector of heat waves.

ease of installation;
compactness;
good thermal insulation.

poor sound insulation;
If compared with other insulation materials, then isolon is weaker.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is clay particles that have been fired and have the shape of an oval or circle.

low cost;
fire resistant;
has good thermal and sound insulation characteristics;
has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
It is lightweight, so it does not weigh down the balcony.

long drying time;
complexity of installation;
increased dust formation.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a representative of the class of gas-filled plastics. It has a liquid consistency; when the subspace is filled with it, it foams and hardens.

high sound and thermal insulation;
high protection against steam and liquid;
easy to install.

Cons: requires the use of special devices.

Attention! Please note the following: under no circumstances should the balcony be made heavier; this is a violation of the building’s design standards.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony

Correct installation of insulation material is a guarantee of longevity and quality. In order not to forget anything or make a mistake anywhere, you must initially prepare step-by-step instructions (plan) and strictly follow it point by point.

Insulation can be carried out either with inside balcony and outside. But when self-insulation It is better to choose the option of insulating the balcony from the inside.

Preparatory work consist of:

Checking the supporting structure;
Removal of trim and frame;
Patching tile cracks with concrete mortar;
Clearing the balcony of unnecessary items;
Balcony glazing. Choose 2- or 3-chamber double-glazed windows for better thermal and noise insulation;
Electrical wiring;
Preparation with insulation.

Floor insulation

Initially, it is more logical to start with insulating the floor on the balcony.

Action plan:

Various cracks in the floor are patched with polyurethane foam. You can also use sealant or polyurethane mastic.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the concrete slab. You can use regular polyethylene in these wholes. It must be laid with an overlap, with a protrusion on the wall.

We install a frame of 50-70 mm beams. Initially, the beams are laid on the balcony slab with gaps between them of 40-60 cm. To fasten the beams, use anchors about 110 mm long. Next, we secure the beams in the longitudinal direction with self-tapping screws. They will be used to level the floor.

Next, the resulting cavities in the frame are filled with insulation material. And finally, the finishing surface is mounted on top using self-tapping screws. When fixing the finishing layer, it is necessary to leave small gaps at the junction with the walls to prevent squeaks during operation. The cracks in the walls are filled with polyurethane foam.

Attention! The thickness of the insulation must exceed 7 cm for high-quality insulation floor. But you shouldn’t use too thick insulation. After all, the height of the threshold must be made below 20 cm, and the height of the room should not exceed 2.45 m, and the height of the fence should be more than 95 cm. Based on these data, you need to choose the optimal insulation thickness for you.

Wall insulation

Action plan:

Waterproofing is carried out. Beams in the form of a lattice are installed on top of the waterproofing. The cross-section of the timber must be selected in such a way that after laying the insulation there remains small space between the finishing surface and the insulation. As a result, air bag— thermal insulation characteristics will improve.

We put insulation into the formed cells. Finishing the walls. As a material for finishing Chipboard, lining, drywall, etc. can be used. It depends on individual preferences.

You can choose the material that suits your aesthetic parameters by looking at many photos of balcony insulation on the Internet.

Ceiling insulation

There are two options for ceiling insulation: with and without a frame. In the second option, it is necessary to use lightweight materials and this insulation is attached directly to the ceiling slab.

Action plan:

The cleaned ceiling surface is covered with an antiseptic. The insulation is attached using polyurethane foam or glue.

Beams are attached on top of the material to install the finishing. If you use mineral wool: first a frame is made, then insulation is laid and drywall is installed. The finishing coating is installed.

Insulating the balcony from the outside is more correct. This method of insulation allows you to save balcony space, and also prevent the formation of condensation from the inside.

But the problem is that it is almost impossible to produce it without specialists. Therefore, it is better to order insulation of a balcony from the outside from specialized organizations specializing in turnkey insulation of balconies.

Photo of balcony insulation

A loggia is several square meters that can serve a variety of purposes. To use this premises all year round, need to be provided there comfortable temperature. Every home craftsman can transform it into a cozy, useful and well-equipped space.

Are you planning to start arranging these additional square meters, but don’t know how to insulate the loggia with your own hands and what materials will be needed for this? We will help you deal with all the issues - our article provides recommendations for choosing insulation and discusses step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of the walls, ceiling and floor of the loggia.

You should start, of course, with planning. You should decide on functional purpose this small room. If you plan to use it as a warehouse for things that are not very necessary, then insulation does not make much sense. But the loggia can be turned into an office, a small gym, a winter garden, etc.

There are also restrictions. For example, a loggia cannot be used as a kitchen space, i.e. install a stove, a sink for washing dishes, etc. It is also prohibited to install a centralized heating system in this area.

There are a number of other restrictions that may be associated with architectural features And fire safety building. This may be a ban on glazing above a certain floor, on changing the appearance of the building, the height of the fence, etc.

As practice shows, many manage to somehow circumvent these standards and arrange a loggia to their liking. Before starting work, it doesn’t hurt to coordinate your plans with supervisory authorities or prepare for problems to arise after the rework is completed.

Installation of electrical wiring, lighting and heated floors during insulation of the loggia must be thought out in advance to prevent damage heat-insulating material were minimal

But under no circumstances should openings be made in load-bearing wall, only the holes provided for in the original design are allowed. Even taken from the loggia window-door unit may pose a danger.

To keep the loggia warm, you will need high-quality glazing. It is better to order it at reliable company. Double-glazed windows will do the job perfectly.

Part of the space will be “eaten up” by a layer of insulation. These centimeters will have to be sacrificed in order to reliably protect the house from the cold. Loggias located on the lower floors are most often insulated from the outside. We talk about the best materials for external wall insulation.

From the very beginning, you need to consider options for heating this space.

There are not so many of them, because only suitable for a loggia:

electric TP;
portable heater.

Considering that the installation area is small, you can spend money on such convenience as a TP. Cable systems are easy to install; you can do all the work yourself. Infrared flooring is more difficult to install; it requires an almost perfectly level base, but the cost of electricity during operation will be moderate.

But most simple solution there will be use, especially if the loggia is not used every day, but only from time to time. Installing heated floors will require more expense and effort.

The choice of materials and options for insulating a loggia with your own hands is quite wide.

Among the most popular it is worth noting:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
polyurethane foam;
expanded polystyrene;
penofol, etc.

Mineral wool has a low price, but this is almost its only advantage. To lay such material, you will need to first arrange the lathing. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture; when wet, it loses its beneficial properties, so it is not always suitable for a loggia.

You need to provide a place for installation in advance. Usually a niche of a suitable size is made on the wall for these purposes. A temperature sensor placed in a corrugated tube is placed among the turns of the cable TP. It will also need to be connected to the thermostat.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Detailed video tutorial on how to insulate a loggia with your own hands:

Insulation of the loggia floor:

Modern materials and technologies make it possible to insulate a loggia really reliably and quickly. In any case, when performing installation work, the technology requirements and manufacturer’s recommendations should be observed. Then the result will fully meet expectations, and the insulation will remain effective for many years.

Are you planning to do your own insulation of the loggia, but do you still have questions after reading our material? Feel free to ask our experts for advice - write questions in the comments block.

Until recently, the balconies of city apartments served as a kind of storage room - people stored preserved food and various things there. What’s more, all sorts of unnecessary rubbish was taken out onto the balconies, which was a pity to throw away. However, today these premises are increasingly used as additional living space. And to implement such an idea, you need to take care of insulating the balcony.

If you insulate your balcony, you will be able to not only expand the living space of your apartment relatively cheaply, but also significantly reduce heat loss from your home. The fact is that it is through the balconies that most of the heat escapes. But in order for everything to be done efficiently, you need to know where to start. With a well-designed scheme, turning a cold balcony into a small, but almost full-fledged room will be much easier.

So, first sketch out a rough work plan - it will include:

Important information! The balcony can be insulated both from the inside and outside. But since you will be doing the work on your own, that is, without the help of specialists, it is better to resort to internal insulation.

Stage No. 1. Choosing insulation

On modern construction market There are a lot of thermal insulation materials, but for a balcony they are more suitable:

As for foam plastic and EPS, the laying of these materials is carried out using almost the same technology (the only exception is the form of adhesion - with EPS it is better due to the use of grooves).

It is better not to use mineral wool for a balcony - the installation procedure will be more labor-intensive, and the condensation that inevitably forms on the balcony is undesirable for this material. Expanded clay, for obvious reasons, can only be used for floor insulation (the insulation technology will be described in detail below).

And if we add to all of the above the fact that the balcony should in no case be overloaded, then it becomes obvious: the most suitable option is polystyrene foam 4-5 cm thick, which is cheaper than expanded polystyrene or mineral wool.

Stage No. 2. We carry out glazing

If your balcony is already glazed, you can skip this step. The glazing procedure itself largely depends on the parapet installed on the balcony. If we're talking about about the iron sheathing, then you must build it up using foam blocks or ceramic brick. It is important that the resulting wall thickness exceeds 10 cm. And if you have a reinforced concrete parapet, you can immediately begin installing windows.

Today, many (especially fans of environmentally friendly building materials) prefer double-glazed windows with wooden frames. It is worth remembering that such structures need to be treated with an antiseptic and painted regularly. You can learn about installing double-glazed windows with wooden frames from the video below.

Video - How to install a wooden window with double glazing

However, the majority of consumers still buy PVC windows. When purchasing, choose a special plastic profile that is characterized by increased rigidity and strength characteristics. In addition, the profile must have good thermal insulation properties.

Plastic windows should also have:

5-chamber profile;
2-chamber (if you live in the middle zone) or 3-chamber (if in a more severe climate) double-glazed window;
reinforced reinforcement.

After installing the PVC structure ordered according to the dimensions of the balcony (the work should be carried out by specialists), you can proceed directly to insulation.

Stage No. 3. We insulate the floor

Let's look at how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands using polystyrene foam (although the technology described below is also suitable for polystyrene foam).

Table. Insulating the floor on the balcony

Steps, no.	Short description	Illustration
Step #1	First prepare the work surfaces - seal polyurethane foam all detected cracks in the concrete, as well as at the joints between the slabs and the wall.
Step #2	Mark the floor for the subsequent construction of the sheathing. In this case, it is important that the pitch of the sheathing exceeds the width of the insulation sheets by approximately 10 mm.
Step #3	Lay the slats according to the previously made markings (the approximate size of the bars is 4x4 cm, but their width must correspond to the thickness of the insulating material). The first and last slats should be 50-100 mm away from the walls. Connect the slats using self-tapping screws.
Step #4	Place sheets of foam plastic between the lathing slats, gluing them to the floor liquid nails or special glue. Blow out any resulting voids with polyurethane foam.
Step #5	Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation. Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation (necessary to increase thermal insulation and prevent the formation of condensation). If you use regular PET film, then under no circumstances place it on the “cold” side of the insulator. If you are laying foil insulation, then do it with foil to the foam.
Step #6	Fix sheets of plywood or chipboard on top, and the thickness of the floor covering should be at least 20 mm. Attach the sheets to the slats using self-tapping screws.
Step #7	All that remains is to lay the finishing coating, which can be carpet or linoleum.

Important information! There is another way to insulate the floor on a balcony with polystyrene foam: sheets of foam plastic are attached to a leveled and cleaned surface, and a thin screed from a previously prepared dry mixture solution is poured on top. As finishing coating Ceramic tiles can be used here.

Alternative option. We use expanded clay

As noted earlier, the floor on the balcony can also be insulated using expanded clay. This material is also inexpensive, and its installation is not difficult. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Step #1. First, lay a waterproofing film on the floor with an extension of 10 cm to the walls.

Step #2. Place the beacons around the perimeter in increments of approximately 25 cm, being careful not to lean them too far against the walls.

Step #3. Cover the floor with a 15 cm thick layer of expanded clay and distribute the material evenly over the surface.

Step #4. Moisten the expanded clay with cement laitance (this is an aqueous solution of cement).

Step #5. Fill the expanded clay with a layer of concrete or self-leveling mixture. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure of the insulator.

Step #6. Wait for the screed to dry completely. After this, you can begin laying the topcoat.

Stage No. 4. We insulate the walls

The technology here is almost the same as for floor insulation. Follow these steps:

Step #1. Mark the future location of the slats on the walls (as well as for the floor).

Step #2. Attach the slats in accordance with these markings.

Step #3. Apply polyurethane foam to the surface using wave-like movements. At the same stage, you should drill holes for the dowels.

Step #4. Attach the foam sheets using plastic mushroom dowels.

Step #5. Blow out all the resulting cracks with foam, then seal with mounting tape.

Step #6. Lay a waterproofing layer on top - for example, penofol, which will also serve as thermal insulation.

Step #7. Seal the seams at the joints with foil tape.

Step #8. Mount the counter-lattice on top of the foam foam and install the finishing material.

Stage No. 5. We insulate the ceiling

This procedure is also performed according to similar technology, however, some differences still exist.

First, make a marking along which the hangers for attaching the guides will be installed.
Install the hangers themselves necessary to fix the guides (for the latter, use a galvanized profile or timber).
In appropriate places, cut small holes in the insulator (foam or EPS) for hangers.
Next, secure the insulation boards using the same mounting foam.

If the insulation weighs too much, you can use dowels for fastening. Blow out the cracks with foam. Otherwise nothing significant differences No.

Finishing features

In most cases, balconies are lined from the inside with clapboard or profile, but plasterboard is also used, followed by wallpapering. PVC panels are also used for cladding. As for the exterior finishing, it is better to entrust it to professionals, especially if your apartment is located higher than on the ground floor.

Important information! It is prohibited to install central heating there, so if additional heating is required, you can lay a film “warm floor” under the linoleum.

You can also install an outlet on the balcony to which an electric heater will be connected. The described room is small, so heating will take a minimum of time. We also note that the double-glazed window weighs quite a lot, so the remaining materials (including the insulator itself) must be of minimal weight. By the way, this is another reason why it is better to give preference to EPS or foam boards.

Video - Instructions for insulating a balcony

Now you know about the strengths and weaknesses of materials suitable for insulating a balcony, as well as the technologies for laying polystyrene foam and expanded clay. Therefore, it's time to get to work! Moreover, there is nothing complicated here if you are armed with step-by-step instructions and all necessary materials. If you do everything correctly, you will turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room with all the ensuing benefits.

This material should be of interest to all apartment owners who have a separate balcony or loggia. In this article I want to talk about how simply insulating a balcony with your own hands will help make it a full-fledged part of your apartment. If you are tired of using your balcony exclusively for storing old unnecessary things, read the article and find out how to properly insulate it.

What is the difference between a balcony and a loggia

To avoid any confusion in the future, I first want to explain the difference between a loggia and a balcony:

The balcony always protrudes forward, beyond the vertical walls of the building. Interfloor concrete slabs, which are cantilevered to the façade of the house, serve as the floor and ceiling of the balconies. Vertical fencing (parapet) is usually made in the form of a welded metal structure, which is installed in front and on the sides of the balcony;

The loggia is always recessed into the façade. Structurally, it is a continuation of the living space, but is separated from it by a capital outer wall With balcony door. The floor and ceiling for the loggia are interfloor ceilings, A side walls are made from monolithic concrete or brickwork. The parapet on the loggia is installed only along the front part, and can be made from welded metal or lungs building materials (foam concrete blocks, hollow brick, etc.).

Why do you need to insulate a loggia?

In old multi-storey buildings, apartments with balconies and loggias were rented to residents without any glazing. This means that snow and rain can freely fall there, and the air temperature throughout the year remains the same as outside.

Apartments in modern new buildings, most often rented with glazed balconies. Glazing helps protect it from rain and snow, but does not protect it from cold, wind and dampness. Therefore, the temperature and humidity on a glazed but uninsulated balcony are not very different from the weather outside.

I can tell from personal experience that simultaneous glazing and insulation of balconies with your own hands allows you to solve several housing issues at once:

An insulated and glazed loggia can be used not just as a storage room for unnecessary rubbish, but as a full-fledged room in your apartment. Moreover, when paying utilities, you still pay for it as for living space;

When electricity and central heating are supplied, it can be equipped with a study room, a small home workshop, or a children’s room. game room, and even your own greenhouse or winter garden;
If you want to increase the usable area of your living room or bedroom, and are ready to sacrifice a balcony for this, then I suggest doing the following:

First of all, we insulate the balcony with high quality and install panoramic window with double-glazed windows;
Next, we supply centralized or autonomous heating from the apartment;
We dismantle the old window block and balcony door;
Now all that remains is to combine your room and balcony into a single living space.

The following proposal should be of interest to owners of one-room apartments.

If the layout of your house allows, then due to the balcony or loggia, one-room apartment easy to convert into a two-room apartment:

First of all, you need to carefully insulate the loggia and install double-glazed windows;
Then install heating, sewerage and water supply pipes on the loggia;
Install a sink, plumbing fixtures and a minimum set of kitchen appliances;
IN former kitchen equip a living room, children's room or.

Even if you do not plan to convert the balcony into a living room, insulating it will help to significantly reduce heat losses in your apartment. Firstly, this will make the house much warmer in winter, and secondly, it will reduce monthly heating and air conditioning costs.

Selection of thermal insulation materials

To insulate balconies, it is best to use rigid thermal insulation materials based on polymers, or roll insulation based on mineral wool.

Both insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages, so below I will talk about their main qualities in more detail:

Polystyrene foam is hard sheet insulation, which is made from polystyrene foam granules welded together.

It is characterized by the following characteristics:

Sheets of construction foam usually have a size of 1000x1000 mm, and can have a thickness from 10 to 150 mm;
They have sufficient rigidity, have very low thermal conductivity, and are absolutely impervious to air and water vapor;
Foam plastic is considered the cheapest insulation, since its price is about 150-200 rubles per sheet measuring 1000x1000x50 mm.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS or Penoplex) has similar performance properties, but has a much higher rigidity:

Penoplex sheets can withstand significant weight loads, so I recommend using it for floor insulation;
EPS and foam are destroyed when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, they should not be left in direct sunlight for a long time;
For the same reason, it is advisable to carry out finishing work no later than a week after installing the insulation.

Foil foamed polyethylene (Penofol) is sold in rolls 1000 mm wide and 3 to 12 mm thick. Penofol is most often used as an auxiliary heat and waterproofing material. It is laid in the form of a layer between the main insulation and the internal decorative lining.

Penofol in thermal insulation coating performs three important functions at once:

Foamed polyethylene itself has low thermal conductivity, so it serves as additional insulation;
Thin mirror film aluminum foil reflects the infrared spectrum thermal radiation, therefore returns radiant heat from the radiators back to the loggia;
Polyethylene film does not allow water vapor to pass through at all, so it is warm wet air from the room cannot penetrate into the thickness of the main insulation. This protects it from condensation.

Basalt or stone mineral wool is a soft fibrous insulation that is made from intertwined thin fibers of molten rocks.

Basalt wool is considered universal look insulation, since it has practically no restrictions on its use in construction:

Mineral wool is sold in rolls or form of hard slabs with a thickness of 20 to 100 mm;
It has a low heat transfer coefficient, does not burn at all, is not susceptible to mold, and has an unlimited service life;
Stone wool allows air and water vapor to pass through well, but when wet, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly;
To prevent the formation of condensation inside the insulation, mineral wool must be installed in combination with a waterproofing layer.

Besides stone wool, there is glass wool on sale, which is made from thin threads of molten glass. Its fibers are very fragile and break easily, so after creasing, such cotton wool does not restore its shape. I do not recommend using it for insulating residential premises, because small glass fibers can penetrate human skin and cause severe irritation.

Preparing tools

To insulate a balcony with your own hands, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To drill holes in concrete, you will need an electric hammer drill and a set of drills with a diameter of 6 to 12 mm;
Holes in brick walls Can be drilled using an impact drill. To do this, you will need a set of drills with a Pobedit tip with a diameter of 6-12 mm;
During the work you will need to tighten a large number of screws. Therefore I recommend using cordless screwdriver with replaceable nozzles PH2 and PZ2;
It is more convenient to cut the bars for installing the sheathing using an electric cutting machine, but if you don’t have one, you can use a regular hand hacksaw for wood;

For cutting insulation and slicing cladding panels, you will need sharp construction knife with a set of replaceable blades;
As for hand tools, you will also need two hammers weighing 200 g and 400 g;
Two flat and one shaped screwdriver;
Small and large pliers or pliers;
Construction level, rope plumb line, metal ruler and tape measure at least 3 m long;
Polyurethane foam in large metal containers;
In addition to the insulation, the materials you need to purchase are dry wooden blocks for making a load-bearing one, with a cross-section of 60x60 mm;

Adhesive for insulation. It is sold as dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly at the place of work;
Wide aluminum metallized tape for ventilation systems;
Plastic dowels with wide washers for attaching insulation. People often call them umbrellas or parachutes;
Depending on your preferences, for the interior decoration of the balcony you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, plastic siding panels or clapboard boards. In my opinion, plastic siding is best suited for these purposes..

At night and during the day, significant changes in air temperature can be observed on an insulated balcony, which in turn can lead to the formation of condensation on the walls and ceiling. Therefore, for interior finishing it is allowed to use only moisture-resistant and frost-resistant materials.

Insulation process

Stage 1: strengthening the balcony parapet

Insulating a balcony from the inside should begin with installing windows, but in some cases this may cause problems. During the construction of multi-storey buildings, balcony parapets are usually made in the form of lightweight metal fence, welded from a corner and a steel square. It is unsafe to install heavy double-chamber balcony glazing on such a parapet, so before installing new windows, it needs to be strengthened.

I can suggest three ways to strengthen the parapet:

To strengthen a strong and reliable balcony fence in new houses, you can use a simpler method:

Along the entire perimeter of the parapet, weld additional longitudinal beams from profile pipe with a section of 40x20 mm, or from a steel angle with a section of 40x40 mm;
Weld brackets with mounting plates made of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm to the longitudinal beams on each side. Each plate should have two holes with a diameter of 12 mm;
Existing metal structure additionally secure it at several points to the concrete floor slab, as well as to the facade of the building or to the side walls of the loggia. For fastening you need to use expansion anchor bolts;
Tie all the metal rods of the railing together with a truss structure made from a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 mm, or a profile pipe 20x20 mm. Weld the extreme ends of the truss to the mounting brackets;
After installing the glazing, the outside of the parapet can be covered with decorative plastic siding panels.

In old houses built during the Soviet period, the parapet may be unreliable and very flimsy.

From inside the balcony, build a new parapet from foam concrete blocks or hollow baked bricks;
In the places where the new parapet adjoins the facade of the house or the side walls of the loggia, install anchor embedded structures, at least 3 pieces. by height;
Attach common railings from above wide board thickness 35-40 mm. It must completely cover both parapets, and protrude outward and inward of the balcony by at least 50 mm on each side;
Old metal fencing, cover the outside with plastic siding panels for beauty.

If the fencing of your balcony is in disrepair, it is better to immediately dismantle it and install a new parapet in its place.

To do this, you can use the following method:

Along the perimeter of the balcony floor slab, lay a new parapet from hollow brick or foam concrete blocks;
After each row of foam concrete blocks, or after every third row of bricks, along the entire perimeter of the parapet, reinforcing metal mesh must be laid into the masonry;
The free ends of the strapping must be welded to the anchor brackets on the facade of the house or on the side walls of the loggia;
Fix a wide railing board on top of the end of the parapet so that it protrudes outside and inside the balcony by about 50 mm;
The outside of the brick parapet must be plastered using reinforcing fiberglass mesh and painted with acrylic facade paint in any suitable color.

Installation of metal-plastic double-glazed windows requires certain knowledge and practical skills, so I recommend entrusting such work to qualified specialists in this matter. Firstly, it is more reliable and safe, and secondly, they provide a guarantee for their work. In addition, when ordering windows with installation, you can get a discount on installation work.

Stage 2: installation of flooring

Balcony floor slabs usually have a small thickness, so before installing the finished floor covering, it must be properly insulated.

Floor insulation can be done with foam panels, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool slabs.

The general principle of using these materials is approximately the same, so I will tell you how to do this using foam sheets as an example:

The concrete floor slab must be cleaned of construction debris, dried well, and covered with two layers of heated rubber-bitumen mastic;

If you use mineral wool as insulation, then for waterproofing you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane or perforated polyethylene film on the slab;
Along the balcony, fasten wooden blocks (joists) with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm to the floor. The outer bars must be laid close to the parapet and the wall in the apartment, and a distance of 300-400 mm must be maintained between the middle bars;

In the spaces between the bars, lay foam panels tightly without gaps. If there are small gaps between the foam sheets, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam;
Lay waterproofing made of foil foamed polyethylene (Penofol) on top of the insulation and longitudinal beams;

Penofol must be laid so that its foil side faces up, and its edges should bend to side walls, 60-100 mm on each side;
To ensure a ventilation gap between the finished floor and Penofol, wooden counter slats with a thickness of 15-20 mm must be nailed to the longitudinal bars;
A finished floor covering can be installed on top of the counter slats. To install a wooden floor on the balcony, you need to use tongue and groove floorboard 40 mm thick.
The floorboards need to be laid across the balcony and secured to the joists using galvanized self-tapping screws.

If you want to lay linoleum or laminate on the balcony, then first you need to arrange the subfloor. To do this, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB with a thickness of at least 20 mm must be secured to the longitudinal bars. After this, the subfloor must be sanded and a finishing floor covering laid.

Stage 3: Thermal insulation of the parapet and side walls

For normal thermal insulation of a balcony and loggia, it is very important to properly insulate the parapet and side walls, because they are in direct contact with cold air from the street. The solid wall between the apartment and the loggia does not need to be insulated so that it can freely transmit heat from the heated room to the loggia.

Below is a step-by-step instruction in which I will talk about insulating walls and balcony parapets using polystyrene foam and mineral wool:

Before starting work, all concrete and brick surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic penetrating primer. It fills the open pores between the particles of the material and protects the wall from the formation of mold under the insulation;

Mount a supporting frame on the wall to secure the finishing internal lining. It is made in the form of a lathing from vertical bars with a section of 60x60 or 75x75 mm.
On the walls, the bars should be placed vertically, from the floor to the ceiling. The outer bars are installed at the corners of the balcony, and the intermediate ones are attached to the side walls, at a distance of 300-400 mm from each other.
It is more convenient to make the supporting frame for the parapet from three or four horizontal bars. The lower beam must be secured to the parapet at floor level, and the upper beam must be secured under the railing board. Mount one or two intermediate beams at an equal distance between the upper and lower beams;

When making a supporting frame, I advise you to lay electrical cables, heating pipes or other hidden communications along the walls in advance;
If you plan to insulate your balcony with polystyrene foam, then it needs to be cut into separate slabs. The width of each tile should be such that it fits tightly between two adjacent bars of the supporting frame;
Next you need to prepare the adhesive solution. Apply several large dots of glue onto a sheet of foam plastic and press it against the wall in the space between the frame bars;
Thus, you need to glue foam plastic to all walls and the balcony parapet. If large gaps and cracks remain in some places, they must be filled with foam.;

Insulating walls with mineral wool has some differences:

Before installing the supporting frame, waterproofing must be fixed to the wall from a vapor-permeable membrane;
To attach mineral wool, you need to use plastic dowels instead of glue., better known as "umbrellas".

After installing the foam or mineral wool, you need to attach Penofol to the wooden blocks with the foil side inside the balcony. To do this, it is convenient to use a furniture or construction stapler;
Wooden counter slats with a thickness of 20 mm must be fixed on top of the Penofol. They will be used to fasten the internal lining;

If you plan to use plasterboard to finish the walls and ceiling, then the counter slats should be mounted vertically, parallel to the sheathing bars;
To install lining boards or plastic siding, the counter slats must be positioned horizontally, in four or five rows. The distance between them should be no more than 500 mm;
To complete everything, you will need to finish the walls and parapet, and install a wooden or plastic plinth at the junction of each wall and floor.

When making a supporting frame for finishing cladding, some craftsmen use metallic profile for drywall. At first glance, this option may seem simpler, but I do not recommend doing so. The fact is that metal has a higher thermal conductivity than wood, therefore, at the installation site of metal profiles, cold bridges are formed in the wall. They worsen the thermal insulation of the balcony and can cause condensation to form in the insulation layer.

Stage 4: insulation of the ceiling

If you plan to install a separate heating system on the balcony, then we must not forget that warm air from the radiators always rushes upward. In order not to heat your neighbor’s balcony from the top floor, I advise you to pay special attention to the thermal insulation of the ceiling.

The gap between the canopy and the floor slab must be filled with foam.

The concrete slab should be treated twice with a water-based antiseptic penetrating primer.;
Before installation thermal insulation material, a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane must be fixed to the ceiling. It is needed to prevent moisture from the ceiling from penetrating into the insulation;
Fix longitudinal wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60x60 mm on top of the waterproofing. The two outer bars should be located in the very corners of the ceiling, and intermediate bars should be installed between them in increments of 300-400 mm;

The insulation, cut to width, must be laid between the bars. It cannot be glued to the waterproof membrane, so for fastening you need to use plastic “umbrella” dowels;
To fill the gaps between the foam plates, you must also use polyurethane foam;
If warm, humid air from the room gets inside the insulation, condensation will form there. To prevent this from happening, a vapor barrier made of foil foamed polyethylene must be nailed to the bars on top of the insulation;
Penofol must be attached to the ceiling in such a way that its edges fall onto each wall by at least 80-100 mm;

To ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier, all joints of panels and mounting brackets from the stapler must be glued with metallized aluminum tape;
Further finishing of the ceiling is carried out exactly as described in previous section(points 11-14):

Nail longitudinal or transverse counter slats to the ceiling bars;
Attach the finishing decorative sheathing (plasterboard, lining or siding panels) from below;
Carefully trim the hanging remains of Penofol;
Install a decorative cornice or plinth along the perimeter of the ceiling.

Even with full compliance with the insulation technology, condensation can form inside the insulating sheathing. To protect wood from rotting and mold, it is important to follow two simple rules. First of all, everything wooden parts Before installation, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnation. Secondly, always leave a ventilation gap of 15-20 mm wide between the finishing sheathing and the insulation.

Conclusion

After reading this article, you will be able to special labor independently insulate any balcony or loggia in a city apartment. Visual guide on how to insulate balconies, you can watch the video in this article. I suggest discussing all your questions and wishes below in the comment form.

Improvement will allow. Additional square meters are never superfluous. Here you can arrange a living room, an office, a small fitness area or a winter garden.
Warm contour will relieve dampness and cold. And the space itself will turn into a cozy and beautiful corner of the house.
This is reliable protection against drafts. Often the room to which the loggia is adjacent is colder than the others. It will become a kind of buffer between the room and the street. This will ensure a comfortable microclimate in the apartment.

Choosing a method of insulation

The location of the apartment and climatic conditions will help determine how to insulate the room. The south side and the top floor contribute to overheating. On the north side the sun is a rare visitor, so it is much cooler here.

Insulation methods

External insulation. Rigid insulation is installed on the outside. It is covered with a reinforcing mesh, a layer decorative plaster. The benefit is obvious - inner space the rooms are not reduced. However, external work, especially on upper floors complex and time-consuming.
Double-sided thermal insulation. The material is laid outside and inside. The solution is very labor-intensive and impractical. Essentially, you have to do the same job twice. After all, one-sided insulation is quite effective.
Internal insulation. The insulator is placed from the inside, which slightly reduces the usable area. But if you wish, you can do the work yourself.

In practice, the last option is most often chosen, since it is the simplest and most accessible. External thermal insulation effective, but too difficult to implement.

In addition, in some cases, external insulation may require a decision from the local administration. This happens if the house belongs to architectural monuments. It is good for lower floors.

Choice of insulation

The choice of insulation materials is very wide. To navigate this diversity, you need to know what criteria to use to choose a coating.

Criterias of choice

It is optimal if it is non-hygroscopic or at least with minimal values for this indicator.
Fire safety. Still, no one is immune from emergency situations, so I would like to ensure maximum safety for myself.
Durability is important in order to insulate the room as little as possible.
Another important nuance- material safety. It should not release toxic substances under any circumstances. If the manufacturer warns that this is possible when certain temperatures are exceeded, you should refuse the choice.
Biostability makes the material a reliable barrier against the formation of microorganisms and mold that are dangerous and harmful to human health.

All insulators are divided into several groups.

Roll insulation

Loose coatings produced in the form of rolled strips. For the most part, these are various wools: slag, mineral, glass. Before installation, they are cut and mounted into a prepared frame. Due to their loose structure, they can become deformed over time, losing their insulating properties. A significant plus is the low price.

Among the roll coatings there are thin foil materials, for example, penofol. They are used as an addition to the main insulation. The metallized coating reflects heat waves and prevents them from leaving the room.

Slab

Dense plates of various thicknesses. This group includes very different insulators. These are expanded polystyrene, penoplex, etc. They are easy to install and do not deform during operation.

Sprayable

Liquid polyurethane foam is applied to the base using special equipment. After it hardens, a seamless insulating layer is formed. Ecowool is laid in almost the same way using the wet method. Both insulators have minimal thermal conductivity and last for decades. The main disadvantage is the need to use special tools for installation.

Insulation instructions in 3 steps

The progress of work is determined by the condition of the premises. Before you insulate the loggia from the inside with your own hands, start with glazing - you need to install energy-efficient ones. At this stage, parapet laying work may be required. The new glazing will look more aesthetically pleasing, but it will only be a couple of degrees warmer here compared to the street.

The fact is that this space, by definition, is non-residential. This means that the walls, floor and ceiling are not able to fully conserve heat. And you need to decide how to heat the room. This can be infrared or electric heated floor. It is possible to install a heater.

Preparatory work

They start with preparation. Remove old coverings from the floor, walls and ceiling. Clean the vacant surfaces. They are examined carefully. All cracks, chips and other defects will have to be removed. They are carefully sealed with putty mixture, allowed to dry completely, and cleaned.

The joints are carefully sealed. Most inexpensive thermal insulators are hygroscopic. The moisture that gets into them accumulates and gradually destroys them and the finish. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. The joints are glued with a special tape or coated with mastic. After this, all internal surfaces.

Work on laying thermal insulation is usually carried out according to the top-down principle. Let's analyze all the stages in more detail.

Ceiling insulation

The technology depends on the type of insulation, cladding, etc. In general terms, the installation instructions look like this:

We assemble the sheathing. To make it, we take a beam or a metal profile. The latter is most often chosen for subsequent installation of drywall. We fix the slats to the ceiling along the perimeter. Then we lay the timber in increments of 0.6 m.
Checking the horizontal position. Take a level and determine the plane. It must be set very precisely. Otherwise, the ceiling will turn out uneven. We correct any defects found.
We cut the heat insulator. It can be rolled or slab. In any case, we cut the fragments so that they are 3-4 mm larger than the sheathing. This way the material will lie tightly, without cold bridges. It will be better held in the structure.
Put the insulation in place. You can additionally secure the plates with suitable glue. If any cracks have formed, carefully fill them with foam.

Then you can lay a layer of penofol with the foil side down. This way it will reflect heat waves back. After this, installation of the finishing begins. This is only one of the possible options for laying thermal insulation.

For hard slabs, a slightly different technique is used. We glue the plates to the base with special glue. It is applied pointwise in the corners and center. After gluing we carry out additional fixation slabs with mushroom dowels. And then we fix the penofol. We lay it with the foil layer down and seal the joints with tape.

On top of the insulation we assemble a lathing made of metal profiles or beams, onto which we will then attach the finishing trim.

Wall insulation

One of the most simple options The loggia will be insulated with penoplex. These are moisture-resistant boards with low thermal conductivity. High density and low weight make them much easier to install. You can choose any other suitable material. Rigid slabs are installed without sheathing, but most often it is installed. We offer step-by-step instructions for the process.

We lay and fix thin foil polyethylene foam to the base. It will perform two functions at once: it will serve as additional waterproofing and will reflect heat rays, preventing them from leaving the room. The foil layer should “look” inward.
We install a sheathing made of wooden blocks or metal profiles. The pitch of the lamellas is not 60-70 cm. We try to choose a value that is a multiple of the width of the insulation.
We cut insulation. We cut out the parts slightly larger than the cells of the sheathing so that they fit tightly into it.
We put insulation in the cells. We foam all the resulting cracks. Reverse side We also foam the metal profiles where there are voids. Otherwise, cold bridges will remain, which will lead to the formation of condensation and gradual deterioration of the insulation.
We install a vapor barrier. This is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.

After this you can start decorative finishing. Wooden or metal sheathing, to which they attach or lining. You can use wallpaper or paint as a finishing touch. In this case, you will need additional work. Sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard are fixed to the sheathing. They are primed, puttied, leveled and then wallpapered or painted.

Considering that simple fastening of the vapor barrier is not reliable enough, “mushroom” dowels are additionally installed. This is what they call fasteners with wide heads. You need five of them for each slab: in the corners and in the center.

The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. For this it is recommended to use vapor barrier films or foil foamed polyethylene. It will work as steam, hydro and additional thermal insulation. The foil side is turned into the room.

The vapor barrier is attached using polyurethane glue or double-sided tape. The seams between vapor barrier sheets and joints with structures are taped with metallized tape. The finishing decor is mounted on top.

Insulating the floor on the loggia

Any heat insulator is chosen, sometimes expanded clay is used. This bulk material with relatively low weight. A lot of it is required, so for balconies in old houses it is better to choose a different solution. The load on the slab may be too great. performed between the joists. This is done like this:

Before installing the slabs, all holes and cracks are sealed with mounting foam, and then the surface is leveled, for example, using self-leveling cement-sand mixtures. If there is a danger of water penetrating through the “pie” of the floor, then it can be applied to the floor before leveling. concrete slab and the lower part of the walls (to a height of 300 mm) layer coating waterproofing(cement based, etc.).
We install a layer of waterproofing. You can choose a special mastic or lay down a film. In any case, we especially carefully insulate the joints of the floor and walls. The joints of the strips should be properly overlapped and secured with tape.
We expose lags. Wooden blocks cut to size and place on the base. Be sure to level the top edge of each part. Otherwise the floor will be uneven. We fix the logs to the base metal corners or in any other way.
We cut the heat insulator if necessary. Place it in the cells between the joists. We compact the coating so that there are no voids. The cracks can be foamed.
We lay a layer of vapor barrier. This is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.
Laying the subfloor. We screw it to the joists with self-tapping screws.

After this, you can finish the insulated room. To make everything clear, we suggest watching a video about insulating a loggia with your own hands.

It is much easier and faster to insulate the structure with polyurethane foam or ecowool. They are sprayed evenly on all surfaces. Form a dense, seamless insulating coating. Considering the size of the room, the whole process takes literally a few minutes. Unfortunately, you cannot do the work yourself. Requires special equipment. Therefore, such insulation may be too expensive.