Any individual building is exposed to atmospheric precipitation.

Among other things, if your garden plot is dominated by soils mixed with clay, then after each rain the soil becomes soggy and the dirt is spread throughout the entire area.

And not drying out for a long time puddles will not add attractiveness to your land plot.
How to overcome the problem associated with rainwater drainage?

Do it yourself

You can resolve the issue quickly and effectively with the help of arrangement storm sewer in a country mansion.

It is possible to build a sewerage system in a private house (about a septic tank) home handyman with your own hands.

This job is not very difficult.

The only condition is that it must be approached with knowledge of the matter.

Before you begin to implement your plan, study the Internet or books on this topic.

And so that you do not spend a long time searching the vastness of the World Wide Web for the information you are interested in, this article will, to the maximum extent possible, expand all the necessary information on the topic:

• “How to make a storm drain in a private house”.

For what purposes is it needed?

Under the influence of precipitation, the foundation of the house, slowly but surely, over time, collapses.

Water will accumulate in the basement of the house.

In addition, the root system of plants planted on the site will soon undergo a process of rotting - this will happen if storm drainage is not organized in time (how to make the most best septic tank for the dacha, read the article).

A complex of special devices and channels, the task of which is to collect, filter and drain atmospheric precipitation into:

• special reservoirs,
• containers,
• septic tanks (),
• filtration fields,
  - all this is created with the aim of eliminating excess moisture.

Scheme - what it consists of

The composition of the system components is as follows.

Installation of drains on the roof of a building- these are fixed, along with bevels, drainage trays.

They collect precipitation from the roof surface. They flow down through cone funnels and drainpipes.

Specific number of receivers atmospheric precipitation on the surface of the earth:

• prefabricated funnels,
• linear drainage systems,
• sand traps, etc.

The devices need to be arranged so that they can absorb as much moisture as possible.

As a rule, point receivers are installed directly under drainpipes, and for some, they find a place on asphalt paths or in places where paving slabs are laid.

Water intakes linear type installed along the paths. And in order for water to drain well, the coating must be laid on a slope.

Rainwater receivers are made of polymer concrete or plastic with a special composition.

Collector well

This device is necessary for collecting and further filtering liquid into the ground. The reservoir should be as large as possible.

Inspection hatches

Without them, it is impossible to carry out preventive inspections and clean the channels if they are dirty.

They are mainly installed at the junctions of channels and at their intersection points. It is in these fragments that the possibility of channel clogging is maximum.

Storm drain options

Underground

This is when all components of the device are located below ground level.

If we consider this issue from an aesthetic point of view, then there are many positive aspects.

But, on the other hand, in order to carry out underground storm drainage, a large volume will have to be done earthworks and shell out a significant amount of money.

This instruction must be followed.

If desired, you can build a storm drain for the needs of a private house of any configuration and complexity.

How to correctly calculate the depth of laying channels

If the underground pipeline has a cross-section of no more than 0.5 m, then it should be buried in the ground to a level of 30 - 35 cm.

If the diameters of the channels exceed this figure, then the storm sewer must be laid at a depth of at least 70 cm.

If your land plot already has a drainage system, then the storm drain should be located above it.

In order for water to move freely through the pipeline, you need to select the correct slope.

Step-by-step instruction

Before you begin implementing your storm drainage plans, make sure that your mansion is equipped with water collection and drainage installations.

Digging a ditch, its depth and width should take into account the slope.

If you consider it necessary to insulate the structure, then the dimensions of the pit must meet these additional requirements.

Compact thoroughly bottom of the trench. After this, pour a layer of sand there, at least 20 cm thick.

We dig a pit in a specially designated place, we will place a tank in it to collect wastewater.

Most likely it will be ready plastic container(septic tank).

As alternative method You can make a tank out of concrete.

We lay gutters on the sand preparation or pipes.

It depends on what type of storm drain you will install.

Next step– we connect all the individual components into one device.

We connect the pipes using fittings.

All joints must be sealed.

Where the trays connect to the collector, we install sand catchers.

In areas that are long (more than 9 - 10 meters), and in places where pipes are broken, it is impossible to do without installing inspection wells.

We check the functionality of the design check for leaks by pouring liquid into the water inlet. If problems are found, they must be corrected.

The final stage. The pipes that are located underground are covered with soil, and the channels located above the ground level are covered with decorative protective grilles.

In any private building installation work for the arrangement of storm drainage systems should be carried out in the sequence described above.

Do not forget to drain drainage from all roof slopes. This is the only way you can protect your land plot and surrounding area from the influence of excess moisture.

Remember! Never combine stormwater and drainage into one system. These schemes should complement each other, not be mutually exclusive.

Because during heavy rains, the joint device may not withstand the onslaught of the water elements.

Owners of country mansions can safely connect the storm drain to their own sewer system. Because there are no harmful ingredients in rainwater, and it does not require cleaning measures.

If you improve your home and the surrounding area with a device surface drainage water, this will significantly extend the life of the structures.

This way, you will save yourself and your household from puddles that won’t dry out.

You can make a simple device with your own hands. There is nothing complicated about it.

The master's work is fearful. You just have to start. And if any difficulties arise, all the answers to your questions can be found in this article.

What pipes to use and how deep to bury them in the ground, watch in the video provided.

Greetings, friends!

Every owner of a private house inevitably faces the problem of draining rain and melt water. And the point here is not only the inconvenience created by puddles. Excess water in the area personal plot can lead to very unpleasant consequences- for example, to subsidence and soaking of the foundations of buildings. In addition, excessive soil moisture negatively affects plant growth, in particular, causing root rot and the development of diseases. The task of drainage in an area adjacent to a private house is especially relevant for those areas where a lot of precipitation falls during the year.

The solution to the problem of draining water from a personal plot is to create a storm sewer. You can order the construction of a drainage system from professionals. At the same time, even if you have little experience in conducting construction work, you can make a storm drain with your own hands, thereby limiting your expenses only to purchasing the necessary materials.

So, what do you need to do?

Main functions of a storm drain

The main purpose of storm drainage on the territory of a personal plot is to ensure high-quality drainage of the soil and prevent it from becoming waterlogged. Thus, there will be no flooding and subsidence of the foundation of the house and other buildings located on the site, as a result of which this or that building may lean or begin to go into the ground, and cracks may form on its walls. Excess water in the soil leads to gradual destruction of the foundation, and therefore water removal will significantly increase the service life of the building.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

In areas with clay soil It is simply impossible to do without storm drainage - such land does not pass water well, and therefore, after the snow and rain melt, puddles remain on its surface for a long time. The accumulation of water in the fertile soil layer leads to diseases of the root systems of plants, which can even cause the death of plantings.

The purpose of storm drainage is not only to drain the area land plot, but also purification of discharged water from sand and other contaminants. Water passing through the drainage system has a relatively high level purity, and therefore does not lead to pollution of water bodies and surrounding soils.

Main components of the drainage system

The drainage system on a personal plot should include the following elements:

1. Drainage channels and gutters.
2. Trays for receiving water in front of the entrance doors.
3. Water intake funnels under drainpipes.
4. Wells for inspection.
5. Sand catchers.
6. Collector well.

Water can be drained either through open gutters or through closed underground channels. The main requirement for gutters and channels for drainage is compliance with the slope in the direction of the drainage basins. Water flow through channels can be carried out not only into special reservoirs. Water can simply be drained beyond the boundaries of the personal plot.

Rainwater receivers are installed under drainpipes that drain water from the roofs of buildings. They are made in the form of plastic or polymer concrete rectangular funnels with different volumes. Necessary element Such a receiver is a basket that catches various debris washed off by water from the roofs. From such funnels, water flows into drainage open gutters or underground channels.

Inspection wells provide the opportunity to inspect channels, care for them and clean them if necessary. They are usually created where drainage channels connect or intersect - it is in such places that the likelihood of clogging is highest.

Sand traps trap solid particles contained in water flowing through drainage channels. Such sand traps are installed on open storm drains.

Through drainage channels, water is discharged into a collector well, in which it is collected and filtered into the soil layers.

Do-it-yourself storm drain - video

Types of storm drainage

On the territory of a personal plot, an open or open storm drain can be constructed. closed type. Open storm drain sewer system also called linear. It is most suitable for those areas where there are paths and areas that are paved or have. This type of storm drain is easy to install. At the same time, it allows you to carry out.

The drainage elements in systems of this type are gutters made of concrete, metal or plastic, through which water flowing from drainpipes, as well as from sidewalks, paths and platforms, is discharged into a common sewer pipe or into reservoirs intended for collecting water. Such gutters are covered on top with gratings that trap various debris and also act as decorative element. To prevent water leakage, the joints of the gutters are sealed with sealant.

Another type of drainage system is a closed or point storm drain, characterized by the underground location of drainage pipelines. To collect water flowing down drainpipes from roofs, rainwater receivers covered with gratings are used. Pipelines located underground carry water into a collector well or outside the site.

In addition to these two types of drainage systems, mixed-type storm drains are also built, combining components of both linear and closed storm drains.

Calculation of volume, depth and slope of storm drains

The functionality of a storm drain will depend on how well it is designed. When designing a drainage system, it is necessary to correctly calculate its volume, depth and slope. The storm drain must be designed so that it ensures complete drainage of water from the site.

When calculating the depth of the pipeline when designing a storm drain, the following rules are observed:

• when the cross-section of underground pipes is no more than half a meter, the maximum depth of their depth should be 0.3 meters, thicker pipes are buried up to 0.7 meters;
• if there is a drainage system on the site, the level of the storm drain should be higher than the level of the drainage system.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

It is desirable that the pipeline be located in the ground below the depth to which the soil freezes. But to make pipe laying work less labor-intensive, the depth can be reduced, but in this case the pipes will need to be insulated with a layer of crushed stone and a geotextile lining.

The total volume of water removed from a site depends on the total amount of precipitation falling in the area and the total area involved in water removal, in the case open system or the area of ​​projection of the roof onto the ground surface in the case closed system. The value of the volume of wastewater can be determined by the formula Q=q20*F*¥, where Q is the volume of water discharged, q20 is the volume of precipitation, F is the value of the area from which water is discharged, and ¥ is a coefficient depending on the covering material of the area.

Data on the amount of precipitation can be obtained from local meteorologists or from the relevant documentation.

The correct choice of the angle of inclination of drainage channels ensures effective outflow of water from the site under the influence of the laws of physics. The angle of inclination depends on the thickness of the system pipes. With a pipe diameter of 200 millimeters, every meter of length the pipe should drop by 7 millimeters. For 150 mm pipes, the slope should be 8 mm for each meter of length. If the pipe is connected to a water intake funnel or storm well, then for each meter the slope should be 20 millimeters. For open gutters, the slope is from 3 to 5 millimeters.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

The design and construction of underground pipelines for drainage should be carried out at the same time that the main buildings are being erected on the site. After the construction of buildings is completed, the creation of underground storm drainage will become impossible.

Do-it-yourself storm sewer installation

Before starting stormwater construction, you need to make sure that the buildings have all the necessary components for drainage and drainage - gutters, risers and downpipes. The next step is to mark the territory in accordance with the pre-drawn plan for the drainage system. The further progress of work depends on what type of system being constructed is.

When constructing a closed system, the following actions are performed:

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

In those places where the pipes have bends, and where the length of the pipes exceeds 10 meters, it is advisable to create wells for inspection. Such wells should also be built at junctions of several pipelines.

When constructing an open drainage system, trenches of the required depth are also dug in compliance with the required slope, only in them plastic gutters are laid on a sand bed instead of pipes. Another way to create channels for drainage is to fill the dug trenches with concrete. To do this, you first need to install formwork in them. The places where they connect must be sealed. Where the channel channels enter the water collection tank, sand traps must be installed. The installation of the open system is completed by checking for leaks, troubleshooting and closing the gutters with gratings.

When creating a storm sewer system, it is important to ensure complete drainage of water from the roof. This will provide the most effective protection personal plot from excess moisture.

If the storm drain is built correctly, it will prevent all the problems that can occur due to waterlogging of the ground. The most important thing is that high-quality drainage will significantly increase the durability of buildings.

Caring for the drainage system

Even correct installation The system does not guarantee its full functionality if the system is not properly maintained. It is necessary to periodically carry out preventive inspections of storm drains. If the storm drain can no longer cope with drainage, then it must be carefully inspected to determine the cause of the problem.

First of all, it is necessary to inspect the roof and remove all collected debris from the gutters and funnels. Next, you need to inspect the drainpipes and, if necessary, clean them.

If Taken measures did not give the expected result, then the problem should be looked for in the storm sewer itself.

Inspecting an open storm drain is not difficult. To do this, you simply need to remove the grates from the drainage gutters and remove accumulated debris from there. After this, it is worth flushing the channels with water under pressure. After this procedure, the gratings are put in place.

If a closed storm drain is built on the site, then the task becomes more complicated. In some cases, the services of specialists are even required. First of all, you need to establish where exactly it is clogged sewage pipe. Then you need to supply water to this pipe high pressure. The effectiveness of such cleaning increases if water is supplied alternately in the forward and reverse directions.

This method is applicable only for pipes whose thickness does not exceed 200 millimeters. Thicker pipes require the use of professional equipment.

Video - installation of a storm water drainage system

Well, for those who don’t understand anything, watch the video

Conclusion

Well, that's all, friends.

Hopefully an article on how make a storm drain in a private house will be useful to you!

To ensure that there is no flood on the site after each rain, so that the foundation does not get wet and collapse, it is necessary to ensure the removal of precipitation. This requires rainwater drainage. We can see it in cities - it is a system of water receiving devices and canals. Storm drainage in a private house is smaller in size, but its essence is the same. This is not to say that it is easy to do, but you can do it yourself, especially if you have already done something on the site with your own hands.

What is a storm drainage system for a private house and what types does it have?

In regions with big amount precipitation must be drained somewhere melt water. If this is not done, the paths gradually collapse, the soil in the yard becomes soggy, and then dries out for a long time. If you do not make a blind area around the house, rainwater will wash away and gradually destroy the foundation. In general, storm drainage in a private house is the key to the longevity of your home, order and neatness. appearance on your site. This kind engineering systems also called storm drainage or rainwater drainage.

The composition of the system is as follows:

Where to put the water

Most of the questions arise about what to do with the rapidly arriving sediments. Firstly, storm drainage in a private house can become a supplier of water for irrigation. To do this, all the pipes of the system are brought into a large container or several containers, and from there, using a pump, they can be pumped into the irrigation system.

Secondly, if there is nothing to water or nowhere to put such a volume of liquid, you can drain stormwater into a centralized sewer system, a drainage ditch, or a body of water located nearby. If these possibilities cannot be realized, a system for discharging water into the ground is installed. These are perforated plastic pipes buried below ground level.

Types and their features

Storm sewerage in a private house can be of three types:

In each specific case you have to design your own circuit - there is no single recipe. Each has its own site with its own characteristics: the absorbency of the soil, the topography, the building, the layout.

What exactly needs to be done is to divert the water away from the house. This can be done as in the photo above - by installing gutters in the path and draining the water onto the lawn. But this is only one of many options. The second place where it is advisable to drain water is a large paved area. As a rule, large puddles form here, which are difficult to deal with. You can solve the problem by making one or more water collection points - installing point rainwater inlets and draining the water according to one of the recipes.

Combined or separate

Often in a private house it is necessary to install three drainage systems at once:

• drainage;
• storm

They often run parallel or are located close to each other. Naturally, there is a desire to save money and combine stormwater with some other one. In particular, use an existing well. I must say right away that it is better not to do this. Why? During a rainstorm, water comes at a very high speed. On average - from 10 cubic meters per hour (maybe more). At this rate of water flow, the well fills up very quickly. Sometimes it gets full.

If the reset goes to sewer well, water begins to flow into the sewer pipes. It won’t rise above the ground level, but you won’t be able to lower anything either - everything will be stuck in the plumbing. After the water level drops, debris remains inside. It interferes with the normal operation of the sewer system, so you have to clean it. Not the most pleasant thing to do.

Simultaneous installation of all systems on the site - the main thing is not to get confused

If the discharge goes into a drainage well, the situation is even worse. During a rainstorm, water enters the system under high pressure. It fills the pipes, then pours out under the foundation, washing it away. You can imagine the consequences. There are still things that are not so obvious. For example, siltation drainage pipes. It is impossible to clean them; you have to replace them. And this is a lot of expense and a lot of work.

So from all that has been said we can draw a conclusion. First, storm drainage in a private house must have its own well. Second - it is desirable that it be large. This is if you are unlucky enough to have a pond, lake or river nearby.

Components of storm drains and their types

All elements of storm drainage in a private house must be connected into a system. Here's what it might consist of:

• Well. It must be large in volume. How big depends on the amount of rainfall, the size of the roof and the area from which the water is collected. Most often it is made from concrete rings. It differs from the water one only by the need to make a bottom. To do this, you can put a ring with a bottom down (there are factory ones), or you can fill the slab yourself. Another option is plastic wells for rainwater drainage. They are buried to the required depth, anchored (chained) to the flooded concrete platforms- so as not to “float up”. The good thing about this solution is that there is no need to worry about the tightness of the seams - such vessels are completely sealed.

  

• Hatch over the storm well. It is best to take a ring and a separate hatch (plastic, rubber or metal - your choice). In this case, you can dig in the rings so that the upper edge of the installed lid is 15-20 cm below the ground level. To install the hatch, you will have to lay out a brick or fill the neck with concrete, but the lawn planted on top will feel good and will not differ in color from the rest of the planting. If you take a ready-made cover with a hatch, you can add only 4-5 cm of soil. On such a layer of soil, the lawn will differ in both color and thickness, paying attention to what is underneath it.

  

• Point storm water inlets. These are relatively small containers that are installed in places where precipitation accumulates. They are placed under drainpipes, at the lowest points of the site. Stormwater inlet bodies can be plastic or concrete. Concrete is used when constructing deep storm drains. They are placed one on one, achieving the required height. Although today there are already built-on plastic storm water inlets.

  

• Linear storm water inlets or drainage channels. These are plastic or concrete gutters. These devices are installed in areas of the highest rainfall - along roof overhangs, if a drainage system is not installed, along pedestrian paths. Can be installed under gutters as gutters. This option is good if pipes for drainage of water have not been laid. In this case, the receivers are placed outside the blind area, and the second end of the tray is connected to it. This is a way to make a storm drain without destroying the blind area.

  

• Sand traps. Special devices, in which sand is deposited. They usually install plastic cases - they are inexpensive but reliable. They are installed at some distance from each other on long sections of the pipeline. Sand and other heavy inclusions are deposited in them. These devices need to be cleaned periodically, but this is much more convenient than cleaning the entire system.

  

• Lattices. In order for water to drain away better, the holes in the grate should be large. They are:
  
• Pipes. For storm drainage it is best to install polyethylene pipes for outdoor use (red color). Their smooth walls do not allow sediment to accumulate, and they also have greater conductivity than pipes of the same diameter made of other materials. Cast iron and asbestos pipes. A little about the diameter of stormwater pipes. It depends on the amount of precipitation and the branching of the system. But the most minimum diameter- 150 mm, or better - more. The pipes are laid with a slope of at least 3% (3 cm per meter) towards the storm water inlets, and then towards the well.

  

• Inspection wells. These are small plastic or concrete wells, which are installed on an extended section of the pipeline, in places where the system branches. Pipes are cleaned through them, if necessary.

  

  On extended sections, inspection points are needed to clear possible blockages in pipes

The storm sewer system in a private house does not always contain all these devices, but from them you can build a system of any configuration and complexity.

Construction order

In general, first you need to create a project. If there is no opportunity or desire to use the services of professionals, draw it to scale (on a piece of paper or in one of the programs). This way you can decide quite accurately what you need and how much. Having purchased necessary materials you can start working.

First, a drainage system is installed. Then the installation of storm drainage begins. It makes sense to carry out this work simultaneously with the laying of drainage and sewer systems, as well as to carry out preparation work for laying paths and blind areas. All of these jobs require soil removal, so why not do it all at once?

Installing a rainwater inlet - fill it with concrete and “weight it down” with something heavy so that it doesn’t squeeze out

If other systems are already ready or they are simply not needed, you can dig trenches. They should be 10-15 cm greater than the required depth. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trenches, and pipes are laid in it and devices are installed. Crushed stone will neutralize heaving forces: it always remains mobile, so that under load it simply moves from place to place. As you know, the devices installed in it hardly feel the load.

When installing rainwater inlets, they are concreted. They put formwork around it and fill it with a 15-20 cm layer of concrete. It needs to be calculated so that it fits normally. finishing coat which you are going to lay.

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Nature never divides people into those who are ready for various phenomena and those who have not yet prepared. She simply demonstrates her abilities: summer rains, autumn thunderstorms, spring floods and winter snow. To protect yourself from natural phenomena, a storm drain was invented that allows all precipitation to be removed from the site.

Many people mistakenly believe that storm drainage is limited to a few pipes located at the edge of the roof of a building. This is not true, although gutters are also part of the design. How a storm drain works, what it is, and how to make a storm drain with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

Storm drainage design around the house

There is a division into the main components that make up the storm drain, and additional ones that provide maximum efficiency systems and allowing it to fully perform all functions.

The basic set of storm sewer elements includes the following parts:

• drainpipes with funnels and gutters: these are the names of that part of the structure that collects liquid from the roof of the building;
• point water collectors and storm water inlets;
• pipelines that transport collected water to the collector;
• a system of trays connected into a linear drainage system and transferring collected water to a pipeline (read also: " ").

Additional details storm drains are:

• special plugs that block the movement of water into reverse side;
• siphons that prevent spreading unpleasant smell from the sewer collector;
• sand traps.

Before making a storm drain, you need to stock up on tools and materials. To complete the work, a shovel and a drill will be enough. With materials, everything is more complicated, but not much: you need to add to the list of the above details bitumen mastic and fasteners for pipes.

The principle of operation of a storm drain in a private house

To create a high-quality storm drain, you need to understand how concrete, plastic or cast iron storm drains work. The basic principle is this: all wastewater is collected in one channel and sent to a common collector. Each structural element must be connected to the overall system.

Proper storm drainage on a site works like this: first, precipitation is collected from the roof of the building and sent to the gutters, then it moves by gravity to the storm inlet, and from there, through pipes, all the water moves to the collector.

An important part of the design is linear drainage. To arrange it, it is necessary to install trays at ground level where water will collect in the maximum volume (read: " "). Each storm drainage tray is connected to the system and drains water further through it, but there are also schemes that allow water to be drained not underground through a pipeline, but on the earth’s surface.

Installing a point storm drain with your own hands

In order for the storm drain around the house to work correctly, it is necessary to carefully monitor the sequence and quality of actions during its arrangement. Before creating a structure, it is worth calculating the storm drain. The first step is to install funnels, which are most often called storm water inlets. Funnels need to be installed where water collected by a drain located on the roof of the building drains. To install rainwater inlets, it is necessary to prepare small recesses.

The stormwater pipeline and funnels must be connected, so the latter are equipped with special holes. Through them, using an elbow, a pipe is installed, directed underground, and eventually it reaches a level where the ground does not freeze in cold weather. At this depth, the pipe is leveled, for which the elbow is again used, and installed in a horizontal position, not counting slight slope, necessary for the movement of liquid by gravity.

From the pipe, water flows into the collector, which is a special reservoir that provides temporary storage of storm water (read also: " "). After some time, the collected liquid will be sent into the ground or pumped into the nearest reservoir. The upper part of the collector must be equipped with an inspection well with a hatch. The diameter of the well is usually around one meter. If there is no manhole, access to internal space storm drains and its cleaning will be impossible.

In addition to point storm drainage, there is a design that works using trays with gratings (more details: " "). This system is called linear storm drainage. The trays are mounted directly on the ground, and the water that the funnels could not collect gets into them. The gutters of the structure can have different depths and sizes. It is worth installing above the gutters cast iron grates for storm drainage to prevent various debris from entering the system. At the junction of the trays and pipelines, it is necessary to install sand traps, which will largely protect the system from the ingress of various debris. In front of the house, you can install special concrete storm drains that have a large width, which prevent the formation of puddles right next to entrance threshold.

Combination of drainage and storm sewerage

There are some recommendations that allow you to properly install drainage and stormwater. One of the recommendations is this: drainage and stormwater systems should not be connected, which is determined by high load which may occur after heavy rain. Drainage should be installed at a great depth below the soil freezing level (more details: " "). The drainage trench must be filled with a layer of gravel and crushed stone so that the pipeline can withstand the load exerted by soil and melt water.

When laying drainage, it is necessary to maintain a certain slope, which is usually about 2%. Drainage waste must be discharged into a ditch or the nearest body of water. The storm drain in a private house is usually located on top of the drainage system, that is, the latter is installed first. In any case, both systems must be at a sufficient depth so that their elements do not freeze during the cold season.

There are several tips that will simplify the installation of storm drains. Thus, the amount of excavation work can be reduced by laying drainage and storm system into one trench (without combining them). The need for separate installation of systems was mentioned above: this was done to prevent overloading of the structure during a flood.

The drainage trench must be deep enough to take into account the depth of soil freezing. In addition, when constructing a trench, it is important to take into account the thickness of the sand or gravel layer. The slope of the drainage trench is usually about 2 degrees relative to the final element of the system.

Laying pipes for storm sewers must also be carried out at a sufficient depth, and when arranging two systems in one trench, this nuance must be taken into account. All pipelines that transport water must ultimately be connected to a collector, which will provide temporary storage and further drainage of water to the reservoir.

When a storm drain is built around a house, it is necessary to test it. To do this, you need to pour at least a bucket of water into each funnel and watch how the water passes through the system to make sure that it reaches its final destination.

Conclusion

As can be seen from everything written above, the installation of a storm drain around the house is not complicated, and it can be created even in the absence of deep knowledge in the field of construction. It is enough just to accurately follow the algorithm for constructing the system, design it efficiently and carefully carry out all the work. As a result of all these actions, the storm sewer will ensure the removal of water from the territory of the site, and the objects located on it will not be in danger of flooding, and it will be much easier for the residents of the house to move around the area that is not flooded with numerous puddles.

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Reliable storm drainage – guaranteed protection of the site from flooding

It's unlikely that anyone will like it when all house plot after the rain it turns into a water park. Problems with drainage can cause poor condition of lawns, flower beds, and general form the area is suffering. Fortunately, storm drainage according to SNiP is not so complex design, so you can handle its construction on your own.

Let's understand the design and operating principle of storm drains

Storm sewerage, depending on the method of organizing water drainage from the site, can be divided into:

• open— storm drainage open type does not require pipe laying. Water drainage is organized as follows: water is drained from the roofs of the house through drainage trays, then it is delivered through a pipe to a storm inlet in the form of a grid (a point scheme for collecting wastewater);

To drain wastewater directly from the site, use linear diagram collection of wastewater.
For this purpose special ready-made blocks, from which the drainage channel is assembled. The upper part of such a block is covered with a grate, through which water gets inside; channels are laid, as a rule, along the paths.

• closed the wastewater disposal system is much more complex. The water first enters a device for sifting out sand and fine suspended matter, then it is transported through pipes laid underground to treatment facilities, and only after that it is discharged into the general city sewer network. Option using treatment facilities and pumps are not used in everyday life; this option is used only for servicing large enterprises.

Since the design of the type 2 drainage system is not simple, in private construction an open or combined storm drain is more often used. This allows you to save time and guarantee reliable drainage of water from the site.

Proper organization of drainage

For normal operation It is not enough for storm drains to simply provide a slope and direct runoff outside the site. It will be necessary to perform at least an approximate calculation of the volume of water discharged so that none of the sections of the storm drain are overloaded.

Regulatory Requirements

The main standard defining the operating conditions of storm sewerage is SNiP 2.04.03-85 and its updated version of 2012 SP 32.13330.2012. Since we are primarily interested in a storm sewer system for a private home, we will pay attention only to gravity sewerage.

When installing a storm drain in country house On your own, the recommendations of SNiP are not mandatory, but you should still listen to them, because the performance of the system as a whole depends on their implementation.

From the entire document it is worth highlighting:

• standardization of slopes depending on the material of the tray. In this matter, everything depends on the surface roughness, for example, for asphalt concrete trays minimum slope should not be less than 0.003, but for trays with polymer coating slope 0.001 allowed;

The width of the bottom of ditches and ditches should not be less than 0.3 m, and the depth is not recommended to be less than 0.4 m;

• When using a closed sewer system, the slope depends on the diameter of the pipes. Pipes with a diameter of 150 mm must be laid with a minimum slope of 0.008, 200 mm - 0.007. In this case, it is assumed that the pipeline will operate in a free-flow mode with a filling in the region of 0.7-0.8;
• for pipe diameters up to 500 mm, SNiP recommends that the installation depth be taken to be 0.3 m below the depth of soil freezing in winter. The laying depth refers to the mark of the bottom of the trench into which the pipe is laid;
• With regard to inspection wells, the standard allows the installation of wells with a diameter of 600 mm (on pipes with a diameter of up to 150 mm) so that a cleaning mechanism can be introduced into it. There is no provision for people to descend into them.

Storm drains and drainage systems should not be combined drainage system into one whole. In a heavy rainfall, the pipes simply cannot cope with the drainage of water, and they will become dirty much faster.

In principle, if you are installing a storm drain with your own hands outside the city, then from the entire SNiP, you should pay attention only to the diameters of the pipes and the minimum slope. The remaining requirements can be taken as recommendations.

Basic elements of storm drains

For a better understanding of the operation and design of storm sewers, we will list all the elements that are required for its construction and briefly define their purpose:

• each roof slope must be equipped with a gutter suspended on holders so that water will be delivered to the drainpipe (you can use a diameter of 100 mm);
• A rain inlet is installed under the outlet of each drainpipe. Through the grate, water enters the sand trap; the first filter on the path of rainwater in the form of a grate prevents small pebbles, branches, leaves, etc. from entering the system. But in the sand trap, water settles; under the influence of gravity, sand particles settle to the bottom and other small debris, this is much better than if sand settles in the pipes;

A simple gravity sand trap is enough for your home.
The price of such a device depends on the material and starts at approximately 1200-1500 rubles for a plastic model; concrete analogues will cost 70-80% more.

• To drain water from the site, prefabricated trays (concrete or polymer) are used, assembled from separate sections and installed so that the grid on the surface is flush with the ground. A sand trap is installed at the end of the tray and from it rainwater moves on;
• through pipes laid below the freezing depth, water is directed either to or to the central sewer network, or is simply discharged outside the site, for example, to a ravine or river;

• You will also need to install inspection wells at pipeline turns and at their junctions.

If rainwater needs to be reused, filter cartridges can be used for additional purification.
They can be installed either in a manhole or directly in a storm drain.
Outwardly it looks like a piece of pipe with filter media, and the principle of operation resembles the simplest household filters for drinking water.

The calculation itself is not complicated, but rather labor-intensive and requires attention; you will have to work with a lot of coefficients and take into account local climatic conditions. Main document at the same time, as before - SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Main calculation formula has the form:

where q20 is the intensity of precipitation lasting 20 minutes, determined according to SNiP 2.04.03-85, l/s per 1 ha;

F – catchment area, ha. It is not the actual roof area that is calculated, but its projection onto the horizontal plane;

Ψ – runoff coefficient, depends on the type of material.

As for the calculation of individual sections of the network, the point comes down to ensuring the required slope and flow speed. These parameters must be within the limits recommended in SNiP.

As for the need for calculations, it all depends on the construction site and type of structure. If you just need to ensure normal drainage of rainwater from a site outside the city, then the instructions do not require mandatory calculations; you can simply take the diameter of the pipe with a small margin.

Sewage installation

The gutter at the edge of the roof slope is attached to special holders (the slope of the gutter is given in the region of 2%), and a drainpipe is also installed. In order to slightly reduce the speed of the water, the lower end of the drainpipe is installed at an angle of 20-30° to the vertical. In no case should its end be brought to the ground; there should be a distance of about 10 centimeters between the storm inlet grate and the end of the pipe.

In theory, it is necessary to ensure that the pipes are below the freezing depth, but in practice this requirement is not always met. If the soil freezes to 80-110 cm in winter, then taking into account the recommendations of SNiP, trenches will have to be dug to a depth of 110-140 cm, and excavation– one of the most labor-intensive stages.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, you can simply insulate the storm sewer pipe. But it’s still not worth taking risks and laying it 20 cm from the surface of the earth.

The next important stage is ensuring the slope. A level will come in handy here; with its help, it is easy to control the slope of the trench at key points when profiling its bottom. It will not be so convenient to work with a building level.

Sometimes fragments of bricks and stones are placed under the pipe to give the desired slope. Is not The best decision problems, the soil under the pipe will be under-compacted, then it will begin to work like a beam on 2 supports, which will affect its durability.

The trays are installed so that the gratings are flush with the ground. When drawing up the project, the entire site is divided into drainage basins, and a separate tray provides water drainage from each of them.

The issue of wastewater discharge is resolved individually. For city houses the best option- discharge into the citywide network, for suburban real estate - either a collector, or simply discharge outside the site.

Summarizing

Storm drainage in a private house is a simple thing, but simply necessary for the normal condition of the site. In the most advanced cases, problems with drainage can even lead to the erosion of the foundation of the house; it is clear that this does not increase the service life. So it’s better to resolve this issue right away rather than putting it off for later.

Video in this article - small master class on the installation of storm drains.

July 21, 2016

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