Correct laying of soft tiles with your own hands. Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles: step-by-step instructions. The nuances of installing flexible tiles

In order for the roofing covering to last as long as possible, the installation of soft tiles must be carried out in accordance with the installation rules developed for this material. Each manufacturer has own instructions for installation, but in general, the basic rules for installation are the same.

Installation conditions

The instructions for installing bitumen tiles regulate temperature regime working with the material. It is recommended to install at air temperatures above +5 °C. Shingles are the elements that make up a flexible tiled roof, are connected to the surface of the base not only using metal fasteners, but also thanks to a special self-adhesive layer on the underside. High adhesion and tightness of the installed coating is ensured by heating from the sun's rays - the shingles are reliably soldered to the base and to each other.

If the installation of flexible tiles is carried out in cool weather, the adhesion of the sheets may not be strong enough. To heat the adhesive layer of shingles, you can use a hot-air burner (hair dryer). It is also practiced to lay the material on bitumen mastic. But difficulties may arise with the installation of the ridge covering, since the material needs to be bent. In cold weather, asphalt shingles become stiffer and more brittle, and in the process of hardening the shingles the desired shape Microcracks may appear in the material.

If roofing work has to be carried out in cool weather, packages of tiles should be kept in a warm, closed room for about a day.

If it is necessary to lay roofing sheets made of bitumen piece material in cold weather, a small enclosed space is set up on the roof of the structure - a slatted frame covered with plastic film. To create the required temperature inside a limited volume, heat guns are used.

Base for roofing

The base for installing a bitumen piece roofing means a rafter system with a continuous sheathing. To ensure the correct functioning of the roofing pie, with inside a vapor barrier membrane is installed on the rafter legs. WITH outside insulation is laid and a diffusion membrane is attached, which removes moisture from the heat-insulating layer and does not let it inside. Counter battens are placed along the rafters on top of the membrane.

Laying soft tiles requires a flat, continuous base made of edged or tongue-and-groove boards or sheet materials - OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood. The moisture content of the lathing material should not exceed 20%.

Sheet material laid with the long side parallel to the cornice. The boards must overlap at least two purlins and be attached to each rafter leg. The joining of sheathing elements is carried out on a support, while the joints of adjacent rows of sheathing should be located on different supports.

It is important to leave an expansion joint between the sheathing elements - wood materials change their linear dimensions under the influence of temperature and moisture.

The roofing pie, which includes bitumen shingles, must be well ventilated. This will significantly reduce the formation of ice on the surface in winter period, since the transfer of heat from the premises of the house to the roofing will be reduced. In summer, the ventilation gap, the height of which should be at least 5 cm, reduces the temperature inside the roofing pie, resulting in less overheating of the attic space. To ensure sufficient air circulation to remove moisture from inside the roof, special holes are left in the lower part of the roof (in the eaves lining), and an exhaust duct is installed in the ridge.

Lining layer

Installation of flexible tiles requires the use of special lining material. Piece bitumen coating is used on pitched roofs with a slope angle of at least 12°. If the slope of the slopes is 12-30°, a waterproofing lining is attached over the entire surface of the continuous sheathing. A slope angle of more than 30° requires the installation of waterproofing material in the valleys, along the eaves, above the chimney pipes and ventilation slopes, in the places where the roof meets the walls, and around the attic windows. This allows you to reliably protect places where there is a high probability of snow and ice accumulation.

The principle of installation of the lining layer depends on its characteristics. The composite material made of polymer film and bitumen filler is self-adhesive: it is carefully laid on the sheathing and rolled with a roller to ensure tight adhesion and remove possible bubbles. Polyester waterproofing material is laid using bitumen mastic and additionally secured in the top and side parts at 20 cm intervals with nails with wide flat heads, which are then treated with mastic. The lining layer is formed from strips of rolled material laid parallel to the cornice. The longitudinal overlap should be 100 mm, the transverse overlap should be 200 mm.

The technology for laying soft tiles provides for certain principles for installing the lining in areas of probable leaks. The width of the waterproofing layer is:

• for valleys - 500 mm from its axis in each direction;
• for the ridge - 250 mm;
• for end and cornice overhangs – 400 mm.

To ensure the tightness of the overlaps, they are coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of planks

To protect the sheathing from rain moisture, gable and cornice strips are installed. Installation of cornice strips (drippers) is carried out on top of the lining layer. The instructions require installation of elements with an overlap of at least 200 mm. Fastening elements should be arranged in a zigzag (in a checkerboard pattern) in 10 cm increments. Pediment strips are designed for the ends of roof slopes. Fastening is also carried out using roofing nails installed in 10 cm increments.

The valley waterproofing carpet is laid after installing the planks on the slopes. The color of the carpet is selected taking into account the color bitumen shingles. The material is fixed with nails in 10 cm increments. If available vertical structures on the roof slopes, a waterproofing coating is also laid around them.

If the arrangement of the chimney passage through the roof is planned to be carried out after installation finishing coating, when planning the roof, you should note the place where it will be located.

How to properly prepare roofing system instructions for installing soft tiles can be found in the thematic video.

Installation of roofing material

First of all, the installation of cornice tiles is carried out - a special element of a soft piece roof. Not all manufacturers offer special shingles for eaves. In this case, you need to use a strip of material that is cut out from ordinary shingles - the petals are cut off from it. Stepping back 2 cm from the eaves overhang, the resulting elements are glued.

Before installation, markings must be applied to the roof. Chalk lines indicating the location of rows of material make it possible to lay shingles exactly parallel to the eaves. The vertical line marks the middle of the slope. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, the covering is installed from bitumen tiles taken randomly from several packs. This allows you to level out differences in shades of the material.

Laying of flexible tiles begins from the middle of the eaves overhang - the shingles are installed to the right and left of the first. The protective film from the roofing elements is removed immediately before installation. The shingles are pressed tightly to the base, and then additionally secured with roofing nails driven in above the groove: 4 pieces for each shingle.

The first row of shingles is positioned so that their lower edge is 10-15 mm higher than the lower edge of the eaves tiles. Laying is carried out with the expectation that the petals of the bitumen elements cover the joints of the eaves shingles. The ends of the petals of subsequent rows should be above the cutouts of the previous layer or at their level. In the places where the shingles join the gable strips, the material is cut off along the edge of the roof, the edges are glued using bitumen mastic, and they need to be coated by 10 cm.

To avoid damaging the bottom layer of tiles, when cutting off excess material, you should place a small board or piece of plywood under its edge.

Arrangement of the valley

Installation of a soft tile roof requires a special approach to creating a reliable and durable valley structure. Before laying ordinary tiles, a waterproofing lining is installed under the valley, to which the flexible tiles are fused using a hot air gun or fixed using bitumen-polymer mastic.

Work on arranging the valley should begin with a slope with a flatter angle of inclination or a slope with a shorter length.

On the slope opposite to the selected one, parallel to the valley axis, at a distance of 30 cm from it, a line should be drawn. The shingles reaching this line from the first slope (with an overlap of the valley axis) are cut along the line and secured with mastic or fused with a hot air gun. This method is used to install all shingles that come from a gentle (or short) slope. Then a line is drawn on this slope, parallel to the axis of the valley and spaced 10 cm from it. The shingles reaching the line from the opposite slope are cut exactly along the line, and their upper corners should be trimmed by approximately 60°.

Roofing nails can be used at a distance of at least 30 cm from the valley axis. Therefore, when arranging it, the material should be glued or fused.

Ridge covering

The ridge covering is laid after the installation of ordinary tiles is completed. Cornice elements can be used for these purposes. In other cases, the material is cut from ordinary shingles:

• if the shingle petals are rectangular in shape, they are cut off, and the remaining wide strip is mounted on the ridge;
• The shingles, which form a pattern of hexagons when laid, are cut into hexagonal fragments, from which the ridge covering is made.

To simplify and secure work on the roof ridge, scaffolding should be installed.

Straight strips are heated with a hot air gun, bent along the axis and laid on the ridge with an overlap of 50 mm. Each strip is fixed with 4 nails.

Hexagonal fragments are mounted with the short side along the roof ridge, overlapping in the direction of the prevailing wind for the given area. The overlap should be at least 5 cm. The ribs of hip roofs are designed in a similar way, with the installation of elements starting from the bottom.

How to lay soft tiles

Roofing made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetically pleasing. Its big advantage is that independent installation is quite possible. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to an adhesive base, and is additionally fixed with roofing nails. So you can do the installation of soft tiles with your own hands even alone.

Flexible bitumen shingles can be used on roofs of any shape

Roofing pie for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

• waterproofing is installed along the rafters;
• on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
• solid flooring.

Let’s look at these materials in more detail - what and how to make them from, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes come in one, two and three layers. Single-layer membranes are the simplest and cheapest, they perform only a double task - they do not allow moisture to pass into the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way Not only is the attic or attic protected from the penetration of condensation or precipitation that suddenly leaks, but also excess moisture that accompanies human activity is removed from the air. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. They are practically produced by one company - Tyvek.

The waterproofing membrane is laid over the rafter legs

Two- and three-layer membranes are more durable. In addition to the waterproofing layer, they also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if there is one, is the adsorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate forms on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and is used as insulation mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and when humidity increases by 10%, it loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If there is a cold attic under soft tiles, it is advisable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and the price is only slightly more expensive.

Sheathing strips are placed on top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will maintain normal humidity of roofing materials.

The sheathing is made from edged boards 30 mm thick

The sheathing is made from boards coniferous species(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure normal air movement in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after this layer has dried, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the wood.

The minimum length of the board for sheathing is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You cannot connect them anywhere else.

Flooring under soft tiles is made continuous. The materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

• OSB 3;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• tongue and groove boards of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of no more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, gaps must be left between the elements to compensate for temperature expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. The sheet material is fastened with seams staggered, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. The OSB is secured using self-tapping screws or rough nails.

Most often, the flooring for soft tiles is made of OSB

When using boards as flooring, you must ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downward. If they are positioned in the opposite direction, they will bend in an arc, the soft tiles will lift, and the tightness of the coating may be compromised. There is one more trick that will allow you to save wood flooring even even if the humidity of the boards is above 20%. When laying, the ends of the boards are additionally secured with two nails or self-tapping screws driven close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending when drying.

The choice of thickness of material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the sheathing. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring is needed. The best option is frequent pitch and thin slabs. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Sheathing and decking thickness

Another point concerns the installation of flooring under soft tiles around the chimney pipe. For a brick pipe whose width is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design resembles a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

A groove that is installed behind a wide brick pipe

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length and width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides are measured, and the diagonals are measured. And the last check is plane tracking - the entire slope must lie entirely in one plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When purchasing, you will most likely be provided with instructions in which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes in advance - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.

Let’s say right away that you need to handle soft tiles carefully when laying them - they don’t like being bent. Therefore, try not to unnecessarily bend or wrinkle the shingles (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of the bitumen shingles.

The drip strip is installed along the roof overhangs

The purpose of the drip strip is to protect the sheathing, rafter sections and flooring from moisture. One edge of the drip is placed on the flooring, the other covers the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are driven in in a checkerboard pattern (one closer to the fold, the second almost at the edge). The fastener installation step is 20-25 cm.

The planks are overlapped

The drip strip is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fastened with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: coat the joint with bitumen mastic and fill it with sealant. At the same stage, the drainage system is installed; in any case, the hooks are nailed down to hold the gutters.

Laying a waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, in the valley and along the slope, a waterproofing underlay must be laid. It is sold in rolls meter width. An adhesive composition is applied to the bottom side, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed and the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Regardless of the slope, the waterproofing carpet is laid along the overhangs, in the valley and on the ridge

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material to a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is advisable to avoid joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of the two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying proceeds from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is pressed well.

The joints are coated with mastic and should not be less than 10-15 cm

Next, the waterproofing carpet under the flexible tiles is laid along the eaves overhang. The minimum width of a carpet on a cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. The bottom edge is located on top of the drip edge and can bend down a few centimeters. First, the carpet is rolled out, trimmed if necessary, then the protective film is removed from the back and glued to the backing. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat head (step 20-25 cm).

How to determine the width of the carpet along the eaves

At the horizontal joints, the overlap of the two sheets is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bitumen mastic, and the material is crimped.

Underlay carpet

Underlay carpet, like waterproofing carpet, is sold in meter-wide rolls, the back side is covered with an adhesive composition. The installation method depends on the roof slope and the profile of the selected bitumen shingles.

• If the slope of a soft tile roof is from 12° to 18°, the underlayment is laid over the entire roof area. Installation begins from below, from the laid waterproofing carpet. The overlap of the panels is 15-20 cm. The joints are additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the upper edge is fixed with nails (galvanized or stainless steel) with a flat head.

With a small slope slope, the lining carpet is continuous

If the slope is more than 18°, the carpet is rolled out only in places where the roof is inflected

When using bitumen shingles with cuts (type Jazz, Trio, Beaver Tail), regardless of the slope, the underlayment is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

How to trim carpet on a roof

Installation of underlayment often requires trimming. This is done using a sharply sharpened knife. To avoid damaging the material below when cutting, lay down a piece of plywood or OSB.

Front (end) strip

Pediment strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the shape of the letter “L”, along the bend line of which there is a small protrusion. They protect the laid roofing materials from wind loads and moisture. The gable strip is laid on the flooring on top of the underlay or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 15 cm.

Installation of the gable strip

These planks also come in 2 m pieces and are laid with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Marking the slope

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the underlayment or flooring. This is done using a paint cord. Lines along the eaves are drawn at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one shingle of flexible tiles). This marking makes installation easier - the edges are aligned using it, and it’s easier to track distances.

To make installation of soft tiles easier, markings are made in the form of a grid.

Valley carpet

More valley material is laid on top of the already laid waterproofing carpet. It is slightly wider and serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the bottom side, it is laid, trimmed at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Stepping back from the 4-5 cm mark, a special mastic with increased fixation, Fixer, is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed into a strip about 10 cm wide with a spatula.

The valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, cut-outs are made from valley carpet or galvanized metal painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered and treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material extends onto the pipe by at least 30 cm, leaving at least 20 cm on the roof.

The pattern is mounted first on the front part of the pipe

The pattern is coated with bitumen mastic and placed in place. The front part is installed first, then the right and left.

The front pattern rolls a little to the sides

Some of the side elements are wrapped onto the front part. The back wall is installed last. Its parts extend to the sides.

With proper installation on the flooring around the pipe, you get a platform completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying the tiles in this place, the surface is coated with bitumen mastic.

The surface of the underlay carpet is coated with bitumen mastic

The tiles extend onto the laid carpet on three sides, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

A valley carpet 8 cm wide remains around the pipe.

The upper part of the junction is sealed using a metal strip, which is attached to dowels.

Attaching the strip to the back of the pipe

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

All joints are sealed

Round pipe output

To pass ventilation pipes There are special pass-through devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends onto the tiles by at least 2 cm.

Place the penetration 2 cm below the edge of the tile

Having attached the passage element to the roof, trace its internal hole. Along the applied contour, a hole is cut out in the substrate into which a round pipe is inserted.

The back part of the skirt of the passage element is coated with bitumen mastic, adjusted to the desired position, and additionally secured around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is coated with mastic.

The skirt is coated with mastic

The shingles are cut as close as possible to the protrusion of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special coating that protects against ultraviolet radiation.

Start strip

Installation of soft tiles begins with laying the starting strip. Usually these are ridge-eaves tiles or row tiles with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, with its edge touching the gable strip. The lower edge of the starting strip is placed on the dropper, 1.5 cm away from its fold.

Marking for the starting line

Before installation, the protective film is removed from the back, the shingles are leveled and laid. Each section of bitumen shingles is fastened with four nails - in the corners of each fragment, 2-3 cm away from the edge or perforation line.

Attaching the starting strip

If a cut of ordinary tiles is used as a starting strip, some of it will lack adhesive. In these places, the substrate is coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There are flexible tiles with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

The first row of soft bitumen shingles is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the starting strip

Before laying bitumen shingles on the roof, open several packs - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be obvious spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The amount of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:

• For slopes ranging from 12° to 45°, each shingle is nailed with 4 nails. The nails are nailed at a distance of 2.5 cm from the visible part of the tile. The outermost fasteners are also 2.5 cm from the cut of the shingles, the rest are between the “tiles”. It turns out that one nail “holds” two tiles.

Scheme of fastening soft tiles

Location of fasteners on steep slopes

When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive the nails in correctly. The caps should press against the shingles but not break through the surface.

Valley design

Using a painting cord, mark a zone in the valley into which nails cannot be driven - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is trimmed

When laying ordinary tiles, the nails are driven as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be driven, and the shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut diagonally, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bitumen mastic and fixed with nails.

What should happen

Pediment decoration

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end strip. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - an oblique piece of 4-5 cm. The edge of the tile is coated with mastic. A strip of mastic is at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

The tiles on the pediment are cut at a distance of 1 cm from the protrusion of the pediment strip.

Ridge installation

If the flooring in the area of ​​the ridge is made continuous, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm. Bituminous shingles are laid up to the beginning of the hole, after which a special ridge profile with ventilation holes is installed.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. Several elements can be used on a long ridge; they are connected end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered ridge tiles. The protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

Installation of soft ridge tiles

Ridge tiles are ridge-eaves divided into three parts. There is a perforation on it, and the fragment is torn off along it (first bend it, press the fold, then tear it off).

The same elements can be cut from ordinary tiles. It is divided into three parts, without paying attention to the drawing. The corners of the resulting tiles are cut off - approximately 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated construction hairdryer on both sides, lay the middle on the block and, gently pressing, bend it.

Ribs and bends

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is drawn along the bend at the required distance with a paint cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. The laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then, stepping back 2 cm from the top edge, it is fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment extends 3-5 cm onto the laid one.

How to lay shingles: bitumen product

Scientific and technological progress has not spared any industry human activity, including the production of building materials. Nowadays, there are many products that are used for roofing; soft tiles are especially popular among them. It is worth noting that any roofing material will last the entire (or even longer) warranty period if the installation technology is followed. The advantages of bitumen shingles over their competitors are as follows: they forgive minor installation flaws, they can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

Soft tiles can be used to cover roofs with a slope of 11 degrees.

Roof installation with soft tiles.

Laying flexible tiles in winter is not the best idea; most manufacturers recommend carrying out all work in above-zero temperatures (from +5). The fact is that the sheet with “tiles” must be attached to a wooden base and lining carpet, the surfaces are fastened with a self-adhesive layer, the tightness of the coating is ensured only in bright sunlight, which gradually “melts” the adhesive substance. But in minus temperature you can start preparatory work: install rafters, wooden flooring, insulate the structure, perform steam and waterproofing.

If there is no other way out and the house needs to be put into operation in winter time year, then these recommendations are especially for you! First, erect a metal or wooden structure on top of the roof and cover it with a special noise-proof or dust-proof film or simple polyethylene film. Inside, the “second roof” will be heated by diesel heat guns, so you can maintain the optimal above-zero temperature. By the way, the “warmhouse” also allows you to carry out plastering work.

Laying bitumen shingles

As a base for bituminous shingles, a material with a flat surface (for example, OSB, tongue-and-groove plywood or edged board) and a humidity of no more than 20% is suitable. Place the joints of the boards where the supports are located. The thickness of the plywood and boards should be optimally correlated with the pitch of the rafters; as an example, we list some values:

1. With a rafter pitch of 60 cm, the thickness of the board should be 2 cm, and the plywood should be 1.2 cm.
2. With a step of 90 cm, the thickness of the board is 2.3 cm, and the plywood is 1.8 cm.
3. With a step of 60 cm, the thickness of the board is 3 cm, and the plywood is 2.1 cm.

Why is ventilation needed? There are at least two points here:

1. To reduce the formation of icicles and ice on the roof in winter.
2. To drain water from sheathing and roofing material.

Laying bitumen shingles.

Most often, a rolled insulating product is used as a reinforcing lining, which is mounted from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm. Seal the seams with glue and secure the edges with nails in 20 cm increments. If the slope of your roof is 18 degrees or more, it is possible to install a spacer layer only in the valleys, on the eaves overhangs, near chimneys, where the roof adjoins the vertical walls.

We install eaves strips, gables, valley carpet, ordinary tiles

To protect the sheathing from moisture, install metal eaves strips (droppers) on the eaves overhangs (at the top of the lining carpet), with an overlap of 2 cm. Nail them with roofing nails in a zigzag manner, step 10 cm. Pediment strips are also installed with an overlap, but narrower 2 cm (step – 10 cm).

To increase the waterproofness of the structure in valleys, lay a valley carpet on top of the lining layer that matches the color of the tiles. The step between the nails is 10 cm. Next, it’s up to the self-adhesive eaves tiles; lay them along the eaves overhang, joint to joint, removing the protective film. From the bend cornice strip retreat 2 cm, nail the elements near the perforation points, and after the fastening point, cover with ordinary tiles.

Fastening flexible tiles.

To avoid color discrepancies, it is recommended to use roofing elements mixed from several packages. Start laying ordinary tiles from the center of the eaves overhang to the end parts of the roof. Remove the protective film, place the tile in the intended place, nail the element (4 nails above the groove line; if the roof slope is more than 45 degrees, then increase the number of fasteners to six).

Start laying soft tiles so that the edge of the first row is located 1 cm higher from the bottom edge of the eaves product, and the “petals” hide the joints. The “petals” of subsequent layers should be flush with the cutouts of the elements of the previous row. At the end, cut the material along the edge and glue it (a strip of glue is about 10 cm). Leave an open strip of 15 cm at the bottom of the valley.

Ridge tiles are obtained by dividing the tiles into 3 parts at the perforation points. Install the elements with the short side parallel to the ridge, nail them with nails (two on each side). Now a little about roof passages! The antenna holes are equipped with rubber seals; smoke - need to be insulated.

Consumption and method of applying sealing adhesive

For sealing overlaps of row tiles on the valley carpet and lining carpet, junctions, passages ventilation systems You need bitumen glue. Let's talk about composition consumption:

1. To process the overlaps of the underlay carpet (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue for each linear meter.
2. To process the overlaps of ordinary tiles onto the valley (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.2 liters of glue for each linear meter.
3. To glue ordinary soft tiles to the end elements (the width of the glue application is 10 cm), you need 0.1 liters of glue per linear meter.
4. To process brick walls and pipes (over the entire surface), you need 0.7 liters of glue for each linear meter.

Before work, of course, you need to clean the base from dirt, bulk materials, oils; Apply bitumen solution to dusty and porous surfaces. For glue, you will need a spatula; make the layer thickness about a centimeter. Grout joints in brickwork flush with the tiles. Gluing will occur in just 3 minutes (complete drying takes from one day to two weeks), hurry up! At low temperatures, warm up the glue before applying the composition.

Caring for flexible tiles

We list the rules that will help increase the service life of the structure:

1. Check the condition of the roof twice a year.
2. Sweep leaves and other small debris from the surface with a soft brush as carefully as possible, so as not to damage the coating.
3. Ensure free flow of liquid from the roof, and do not forget to regularly clear the funnels and gutters of debris.
4. When cleaning the roof in winter, leave about 10 cm of snow on the roof, this will protect the material from frost. Do not use sharp objects to remove ice as they may damage the shingles.

How to lay soft tiles with your own hands

The technology for laying soft tiles assumes that the shingles are fastened only in sunny weather. Under no circumstances should you heat it with burners. As a last resort, it is permissible to glue the tiles with bitumen glue and try to warm them up attic space, or the roofing itself using a construction hair dryer.

Materials and tools

For installation you will need:

• sealant or roofing mastic;
• construction strips for fixing junction points, cornice and front;
• regular galvanized and special roofing nails;
• knife for cutting shingles;
• construction hairdryer

Stages of preparatory work

Before covering the roof with soft tiles, the roof must be properly prepared.

1. A roofing pie is formed.
2. A rigid and level base made of plywood, high-quality boards or OSB boards, which is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic, is laid on top of the windproof film.
3. Under the tiles, put a lining carpet made of old roofing felt, if the roof is being repaired, or any rolled bitumen material. It is carefully nailed in places where the roof joins other architectural elements, in places where the slope breaks, along the front overhang and cornice, in valleys and along the ridge. When the slope of the roof slopes is more than 20 degrees, the material is nailed over the entire surface in increments of 15-20 cm. At the joints and overlaps of the carpet sheets, it is treated with sealant or bitumen mastic.
4. A drip line (eaves strip) is nailed on top of the carpet, which will protect the sheathing structure from moisture. If, due to the architectural features of the roof and structure, it is not possible to nail it, the cornice strip is wrapped under the sheathing and fixed with nails every 5 cm.
5. Before laying soft tiles along the gable, end strips are also nailed down to protect the sheathing and help drain moisture down from the ridge.
6. Next in line are ridge-eaves shingle strips. The shingle strips are nailed end-to-end at a distance of about 2.5 cm from the edge. The joints are coated with bitumen mastic and the free edges of the strips are glued to it.
7. Next, they usually pay attention to the installation of the drain, in particular, installing brackets that will subsequently support its elements.
8. Separately, in places adjacent to walls, other slopes, ventilation pipes and other structures, in niches and other places where moisture is likely to accumulate, an additional waterproofing valley carpet is also created from bituminous materials. It is nailed with galvanized nails at intervals of 10 cm, and the edges are coated with waterproof glue or mastic.

Laying soft tiles

It is known that flexible tiles may differ in color depending not only on the batch, but also on the packaging. An important point is the need to use sheets from only one pack on each roof slope, or to sequentially take material from all packages at once so that differences are not noticeable. Subsequently, the color of the coating will be adjusted under the sun and become more uniform.

Laying soft tiles begins from the bottom of the central part of the roof slope. The protective film is removed from the adhesive part of the sheet and it is pressed tightly to the place of fixation. The upper part is additionally fixed with four nails. In this case, you need to retreat 4-5 cm from the cornice-ridge strip. The shingle shingles with their petals should completely cover its perforation. Along the edge of the pediment, the material is trimmed and glued with mastic.

An equally important stage is laying the covering in places near the ventilation. chimney and other structures. The base under the tiles in this place is treated with mastic. A corresponding hole is cut in the shingle according to the dimensions of the adjacent structure. It is fixed in place. If necessary, the base is lubricated with mastic again.

It is somewhat more difficult to lay tiles near the chimney. First, slats in the shape of a right triangle are nailed in this place. Its right angle should be facing the pipe. A lining carpet is laid in advance around the pipe itself, and at overlapping joints it is coated with mastic.

Installation of soft tiles near the chimney pipe is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• the upper edge of the sheet is pressed against the pipe, placing it on a pre-prepared rail;
• a valley carpet is laid on top of the tile sheet;
• some of the sheets are lifted onto the pipe to a strand height of 30 cm, and the other is glued to a height of about 20 cm and nailed to the roof;
• the carpet on the pipe is covered with a junction strip or a metal apron;
• all seams are carefully treated with sealant;
• if necessary, if the roof slope is steep enough and the pipe is large, you can build an additional gutter to drain water from the chimney area.

The final stage of installation of flexible tiles

The remaining sections are covered with overlapping shingles so that the petals of the next one cover the places where the previous one is attached to the nails.

Another important step at the end of the work will be securing the ridge strip. It is divided into two equal parts along the perforation and laid on the ridge. Two nails are nailed on each side of the tile. The overlap should be at least 5 cm.

A good solution would be to lay an aerator strip, which will ensure good ventilation roof space. To create a ridge aerator, slots are cut on both sides of the strip, which are subsequently covered with aerator tape.

Professional installation of flexible tiles can be done with your own hands. If the technology is followed, the service life of the coating will be at least 35 years. If the roof is subjected to periodic inspection and minor repairs are made in a timely manner, its durability will increase by at least another 10 years.

DIY installation of soft tiles

It is recommended to lay flexible tiles at positive air temperatures, preferably more than 5 degrees. In the cold season, the base material must be heated at room temperature during the day.

If flexible tiles are chosen as the roofing material, do-it-yourself installation can be done by home handyman without assistants. Flexible roofing should not be confused with soft roofing, which is presented in the form used for flat roofs.

Installing flexible tiles yourself

Due to the extremely simple design that flexible tiles have, do-it-yourself installation is not difficult, even for a non-professional. This roofing material is available in the form of shingles:

• rectangular sheet of fiberglass impregnated with bitumen;
• the lower part is treated with SBS compound or natural bitumen for gluing to a continuous sheathing, the self-adhesive layer is protected during storage and transportation by a polymer film;
• On top, the fiberglass is covered with a similar material, sprinkled with slate, granite, basalt chips or quartz sand to increase wear resistance.

Shingles from different manufacturers do not have the same dimensions (average format 1 x 0.35 m), thickness 3 mm. There are several types of tile patterns:

Tools

To lay the roofing material in question, it is enough hand tools, present in the arsenal of a home master:

• knife – for cutting bitumen materials;
• scissors – for cutting metal strips;
• hammer - for fastening with nails;
• brush - for coating with mastics.

Helpful information! In the off-season, in winter, a burner may be required to heat the bitumen layer. Strength decreases and labor intensity increases, so for self-installation Warm weather without precipitation is recommended.

Laying theory

To make it easier to work at height, the shingles have a small format. They are laid from the overhang to the ridge with a ledge so that each upper row overlaps the lower one. Valleys, chimney passages and ventilation pipes are processed first. Then the cornice and pediment strips are fixed, and the drainage brackets are attached. After that, all that remains is to fill the surfaces of the slopes with shingles, cutting them to width and length as necessary.

Installation technology

If you are laying flexible tiles with your own hands without assistants, it is enough to follow the technology below to avoid mistakes, reduce cutting waste, and achieve the maximum possible service life.

The roofing pie must be prepared accordingly:

• vapor barrier film - mounted on the rafters from the inside/attic to prevent moisture from penetrating into wooden structures, however, 100% protection is impossible; some part still penetrates;
• thermal insulation – extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool, placed between the rafters, partially supported by a vapor barrier film from falling inward;
• waterproofing (wind protection) – stretched from above, allowing moisture to escape and condense on the surface;
• counter-batten - it is packed along the rafters, providing a ventilation gap that allows condensed moisture to be removed from the surface of the waterproofing by air flows;
• lathing - solid OSB boards, multi-layer or tongue-and-groove boards.

Important! Continuous sheathing made from unedged boards is not allowed, since there is no flatness on the surface of the slopes. All defects will be emphasized by flexible tiles after installation.

Substrate

The lining carpet with a slope slope of 12 - 18 degrees is created continuous. To do this, the valley is covered with a hydraulic barrier OS GC vertically (obliquely), and the overhangs at the eaves are covered with the same material horizontally. Roll material the underlay carpet is glued to the sheathing with mastic in horizontal stripes from bottom to top.

The launch width of the hydraulic barrier for each slope in the valley is 0.5 m. The sheets of the lining carpet have an overlap of 15 cm in adjacent rows and 10 cm when increasing the length in the vertical direction. The frequency of fixation with nails is 25 cm; additional coating with mastic is carried out in the overlap.

Helpful information! When the slope of the slopes is more than 18 degrees, it is enough to treat the valleys, overhangs at the eaves, the junction of the hip slopes, and attic roofs in the specified way. In this case, the middle part of the slopes is not treated with lining carpet.

Installation of planks and drainage

Eaves, gable steel strips are necessary to strengthen these roof elements. In these areas, one edge of the shingles does not overlap, so the likelihood of scuffing and loosening during wind loads and heavy rainfall increases. Metal strips increase the spatial rigidity of the sheathing; they are mounted with nails (15 cm pitch + checkerboard pattern) with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm.

Depending on the design and layout of the gutters at the eaves overhang, at the same stage, brackets on which the gutters will be hung can be attached to the sheathing or eaves strips.

Facing slopes

In order for flexible tiles to have maximum service life, laying shingles with your own hands begins with markings:

• parallel to the eaves overhang or ridge, lines are marked along the entire length of the slope every 0.8 m for every 5 horizontal rows;
• lines are drawn perpendicular to the previous marking every 1 m for each vertical row.

The resulting grid allows you to control the placement of the sides of each shingle in a row and adjust as necessary. The markings are especially relevant for roofs with dormer windows, dormer windows, chimneys, and ventilation pipes.

Helpful information! There is no need to nail shingles along this grid; it is created as a guide and makes the craftsman’s work easier.

The technology for installing shingles will include several stages:

• cornice row - cut out from ordinary shingles (models Accord, Sonata, Tango, Trio manufacturer Shiglas) or ridge-cornice strips (modifications Jazz, Accord, Sonata), mounted on top of the steel cornice strip 2 cm from the bend;

• first row - with a significant length of the slope, work begins from the middle, the indentation of the cornice row is 1 - 2 cm for different modifications of the coating;

• subsequent rows - also from the center, the petals of the pattern are shifted by half or in accordance with the complex patterns of the front part, the lower edge of the shingle should be flush with the upper edge of the cutout of the lower shingle.

Helpful information! Starting from the third row, you should maintain the direction in which the shingle blades are shifted. Otherwise, after just a few rows the overall pattern of the coating will no longer match.

The nails should be placed perpendicular to the slope of the slope so that the head presses the material parallel to it, without distortions. There is no need to recess the hardware heads. The punching pattern is present on the manufacturer's box, as it differs depending on the model of flexible tiles and the roof slope.

In the absence of a factory-made self-adhesive layer, the shingles are coated on the reverse side with mastic along a width of 10 cm from the top edge. For normal water drainage from gable strips, shingles are cut 2 cm from their edge.

Junction nodes

Depending on the configuration of the roof, it may contain ridges (ribs formed by adjacent hip slopes similar to a ridge), fractures (the junction of slopes on one side of the house in an attic roof), valleys (internal corners in the junctions of an L-shaped roof, a dormer window ).

There are two options for designing valleys:

• open - shingles are launched from both sides onto the valley carpet, nails are nailed 30 cm from the mating axis, two lines are struck with a coated cord parallel to the axis on each slope, the roofing material is cut along these lines, placing a board, glued with mastic, and fixed with nails in the usual manner;
• closed - shingles from one slope (usually with a smaller slope) are launched onto the adjacent one, nails are punched 25 cm from the axis of the valley, 7 cm from the axis on an unsheathed slope, a line is struck parallel to the axis of the valley, the shingles are cut, they are finally attached, then to The shingles of the second slope adjoin this line in the usual manner.

Connections (to walls, parapets, and other structures) are made using triangular slats (“glazing beads”) nailed at the corners of the joints. To do this, 50 x 50 mm timber is laid out, the surface of the wall to which the roof adjoins is pre-leveled with plaster or putty. Then, on top of the shingles, a piece of valley carpet 50 cm wide is glued onto the mastic, extending 30 cm onto the wall.

Helpful information! From above, this piece of valley carpet is covered with a metal apron strip, the upper side of which is embedded in the seams of the masonry or groove in the concrete.

It is better to decorate chimneys and ventilation pipes with special ceramic and steel additional elements. The shingles are adjacent to them or overlapped from above.

Article

Soft roofing is a term that combines a number of flexible roofing materials with excellent consumer properties. Its piece and roll varieties perfectly protect the house from atmospheric “misfortunes” and effectively decorate the exterior. They weigh little, do not require effort in cutting and fastening. Among the advantages is the ability to lay the coating yourself.

For an ideal result, it is not necessary to have the skills of a roofer. You need skill, patience, tools and information about how the technology of laying a soft roof differs from other methods and how to properly install a roof.

Materials from the group of soft roofing coverings are modified versions of the good old roofing felt. The new developments borrow from their predecessor flexibility and lightness, which rightfully top the list of advantages. They have retained unshakable water-repellent properties, thanks to which the wooden base and rafter system last longer. The composition has been improved, due to which the period of flawless operation of the materials has increased threefold.

Based on the installation method, the class of soft roofing coverings is divided into three types:

• Roll materials, supplied in the format corresponding to the name. These include bituminous descendants of roofing felt and new representatives, such as polymer membranes. Roll coverings are laid in strips. Bituminous materials are attached by fusing, polymer materials by partial or complete gluing. With their help, they are mainly used to equip flat and gently sloping roofs with slopes up to 3º, permissible up to 9º. Rolls are in demand mostly in industrial construction;
• Roofing mastics, supplied ready-made or cold to be reheated. Sprayed or applied in a thick layer on flat roofs, resulting in a monolithic coating without seams. Reinforcing mesh is used for strengthening. The scope of application is limited to flat roofs.
• Bituminous shingles, supplied in flexible shingle tiles. Essentially, it is an improved roofing felt material, cut into relatively small sheets. The edge of the shingles is decorated with figured petals to imitate the ceramic prototype. The back side is equipped with an adhesive strip designed for attachment to a wooden base. Glued individually. Additionally, roofing nails or self-tapping screws are driven into each shingle. When a bitumen roof is heated by the sun's rays, the tiles are sintered and transformed into a continuous roofing shell.

In private low-rise construction, the piece variety is actively in demand, because flat and low-pitched roofs over one- or two-story residential buildings are built extremely rarely. Domestic buildings have a “flat” fate, but not every owner will decide to buy membranes and mastics for the roof of a barn. This means that we will pay attention to the installation of the most popular bitumen shingles.

Step-by-step installation of bitumen shingles

Roofs with any slope and degree of architectural complexity are covered with piece flexible material. True, bitumen shingles are not recommended for roofing if the slope angle is less than 11.3º. The material is produced by numerous manufacturers. Each of them strives to provide their own products with unique qualities and properties beneficial to the installer.

Despite some differences, the technology for installing a soft roof follows the same scheme. Eat small nuances, but they are not important.

Rules for preparing the base

Flexibility is an advantage and disadvantage of bitumen coating. On the one hand, it allows you to significantly speed up the process. After all, it takes a little time and a minimum of effort to form junctions, drill pipes, and arrange valleys and cornices. On the other hand, due to the flexibility of the material, a continuous sheathing is required so that the bending shingles rest entirely on a solid, level base.

You can build a continuous sheathing before installing a soft roof:

• from OSB-3 boards, recommended based on budget cost and sufficient strength;
• from sheets of moisture-resistant plywood marked FSF;
• from tongue-and-groove or edged boards, the humidity of which should not be less than 20%.

The sheet material is laid in staggered patterns such as brickwork. It is important that there are no cross-shaped joints. It is necessary that the weak areas where the slabs join are evenly distributed over the counter-lattice. Gaps of 2-3 mm should be left in the seams, which are required for the free movement of the rafter system during temperature fluctuations.

The boardwalk is installed parallel to the roof overhangs. Also take a running start if the length of the board is not enough for the slope. The place where two boards meet on the slope should be supported by a counter-lattice beam, and four nails should be driven into it. Ordinary boards are secured with two nails on both sides. They must be laid so that there is a gap of 3-5mm between longitudinal elements. Before work, edged boards are sorted. Those that are thicker should be distributed at the base of the slope, those that are lighter should be sent upstairs.

Ventilation is the key to impeccable service

The excellent water-repellent properties of the bitumen coating are due to the tiny number of pores that can allow moisture and air to pass through. A reliable hydro-barrier works in both directions. Raindrops do not penetrate inside the roof structure, but steam does not escape outside. If vapors do not have a clear path, condensation will accumulate on wooden roof trusses and sheathing. Those. a fungus will develop, which will cause strong roof I'll have to say goodbye.

For long-term, impeccable service, it is necessary to install a roof ventilation system that includes:

• vents designed for air flow in the eaves area. In addition to the influx, they must ensure the free movement of air from bottom to top along the planes of the slopes. Vents are open channels formed by sheathing and counter-lattice;
• ventilation gap between bitumen roofing and insulation laid on top of the vapor barrier. Designed for washing the insulation with air flow;
• holes in the upper zone of the roofing pie. These can be either the ends of the slopes that are not closed at the top, or specially designed vents with a plastic trunk that resembles a miniature chimney pipe.

Ventilation must be arranged in such a way as to prevent the formation of air pockets in the under-roof space.

Laying insulating carpet

Without exception, all manufacturers of asphalt shingles strongly recommend laying an additional waterproofing carpet before installing shingles. The list of materials suitable for carpet is usually indicated in the instructions. The products specified or similar in characteristics are approved for use.

Replacement is highly undesirable, because a composition incompatible with the coating will prevent the bitumen layers from joining into a monolith and will contribute to swelling. Polyethylene excluded. Ruberoid too, because the service life of a flexible roof is longer. It is unreasonable to lay less durable material under a coating designed for 15-30 years of operation.

The technology for laying an insulating carpet under flexible tiles includes two options, depending on the steepness of the roof:

• Installation of a continuous carpet on pitched roofs with an angle of inclination from 11.3º/12º to 18º. Rolled waterproofing is laid in strips, starting from the overhang, moving towards the ridge. Each strip laid on top must overlap the previous strip with its own ten cm. If it is necessary to join two sections in one row, they are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. The overlap is carefully, but without fanaticism, coated with bitumen mastic. The insulation strips are attached to the base with roofing nails every 20-25cm. Strips of barrier water-repellent protection are laid on top of the continuous carpet in valleys and overhangs, as well as around roof junctions. Then the ridge and convex corners of the roof are equipped with the original insulating material;
• Laying partial insulation on pitched roofs with a slope of 18º or more. In this case, the valleys and overhangs are protected with bitumen-polymer material, and only the edges of the gables, ridge and other convex corners are covered with strips of insulating carpet. Insulation, as in the previous case, is used to border the intersections of the roof with communication pipes and roof junctions. The width of the bitumen-polymer barrier along the overhangs is 50 cm, in the valleys it is 1 m, so that each of the protected slopes has 50 cm. When laying around junctions and pipes, the insulating strip is partially placed on the walls so that the material covers 20-30 cm of the vertical surface.

The installation of a flexible roof with partial waterproofing is allowed by manufacturers, but there are no ardent supporters of this method among them. Naturally, on steep slopes less precipitation is retained, but the circumstances are different: ice, slanting rain, etc. It's better to play it safe.

The bitumen-polymer carpet for valleys is selected to match the tiles. A slight deviation from the color of the coating is allowed if there is a desire to emphasize the lines of open grooves. It is advisable that the valleys be covered with a continuous strip of barrier insulation. But if joining of two pieces cannot be avoided, it is better to arrange it in the upper part of the roof with an overlap of 15-20 cm. There is the least load. The overlap must be coated with bitumen mastic.

Protection of gables and eaves

The perimeter of the roof is equipped with metal strips. They are needed to protect weakened areas of the sheathing from moisture and as roof design elements. The planks are laid edgewise on the edge of gables and overhangs. The edge line should coincide with the roof outline line. Fasten with roofing nails in a zigzag pattern every 10-15 cm.

If there is a need to join two planks, they are laid with an overlap of 3-5 cm, at least 2 cm. The pediment planks overlap the eaves at the corners of the roof. In places of end and joining overlaps, fasteners are hammered in after 2-3 cm.

Most flexible roofing manufacturers recommend installing both types metal protection over the underlay carpet. However, the developers of the Shinglas brand recommend placing cornice strips under the carpet, and pediment strips on top of it. Before installing gable and cornice strips on the plank sheathing, they also advise first nailing the block and then attaching metal protection to it.

Formation of passages through the roof

Chimneys crossing the roof, communication risers, antennas, own ventilation holes need special arrangement. They create a potential hazard in the form of an open path for water leaks. Therefore, before installing the covering of the place roof penetration covered with sealing devices or systems. Among them:

• Rubber seals designed to cover small diameter points. Holes for antenna, for example;
• Polymer passage elements used to equip roof intersections with sewer and ventilation risers. They are produced specifically for arranging roofs. The passages are simply attached with nails to the continuous sheathing. Bitumen shingles are laid on top, which are actually trimmed around the passage and fixed with bitumen mastic;
• Plastic adapters for your own roof ventilation. The holes are closed with vents, a ridge element with channels for removing fumes, and perforated devices for cornices.

The rules for arranging passages for large chimneys should be considered separately. In addition to the threat of leaks, they are also a fire hazard. Chimneys are sealed in several stages:

• the walls of the pipe are protected with parts cut from asbestos-cement slabs according to its actual dimensions;
• A triangular strip treated with a fire retardant is installed around the perimeter of the pipe. To make it, you can split the block diagonally. A baseboard is suitable for replacement. The chimney plank is not attached to the sheathing! It must be fixed on the walls of the pipe;
• lay flexible tiles, placing the shingles on the strip;
• Parts are cut out of the valley carpet according to the dimensions of the pipe with the installed strip. The width of the parts is at least 50 cm. The patterns are attached with a 30-centimeter overlap to the pipe walls using glue or bitumen mastic. First, glue the front part, then the sides, and finally the back. The lower edge is placed on top of the laid tiles, the upper edge is inserted into a groove on the pipe wall;
• Finally, the multilayer insulation system is secured by installing a metal apron and treating the joints with silicone sealant.

There is a simpler and cheap way: the parts of the insulating lining of the pipe are cut not from carpet, but directly from galvanized metal. Then half of the work steps will disappear by themselves.

Wall junctions are sealed using a similar method. Only there is no need to install asbestos-cement protection, and the protected surfaces must be plastered and treated with a primer before installation.

Rules for laying eaves shingles

In order to create guidelines for the installer, it is better to first mark the roof with coated construction lace. Horizontal lines are applied in increments equal to five rows of flexible tiles. Verticals are struck in increments of one shingle.

After preparing and marking the roofing surface, you can safely begin laying flexible tiles, following the algorithm:

• The first to be installed is the cornice row of tiles on the overhang. You can take a special ridge-eaves tile or cut out the starting element yourself by trimming the petals of ordinary ordinary tiles. You need to step back 0.8-1 cm from the edge of the metal cornice strip and glue the cornice shingles. For gluing, you need to remove the protective tape from the adhesive layer and coat the remaining areas with mastic;
• the laid eaves tiles are secured with roofing nails in increments equal to the width of the petal. When driving in, the wide head of the hardware must be strictly parallel to the surface of the continuous sheathing. Distortions are unacceptable. Hammer the nails at a distance of 2-3cm from the top edge of the shingles. The fixation points must overlap the next row of roofing;
• The first row of flexible tiles is laid. It’s better to start from the center of the slope to make it easier to align horizontally. You should retreat 1-2cm from the bottom line of the starting row and glue it using the already proven method. Nail with four nails at a distance of 2-3cm from the groove between the petals;
• It’s also more convenient to start installing the second row from the middle. But the shingles must be moved so that the tab is above the groove of the first row of shingles and the attachment points are completely covered;
• the upper corner of the tiles laid next to the pediment is cut in the form equilateral triangle with sides of 1.5-2 cm. pruning is needed to remove water.

You can continue laying shingles according to the linear principle, i.e. laying down a whole row, one after another. You can use the pyramidal method with “building up” from the middle of the slope to the edges or diagonally.

Two ways to construct a valley

Two methods have been developed to form a valley:

• Open gutter device. Row tiles are laid to the valley axis on both adjacent slopes. Only the nails stop driving at a distance of 30cm from the axis. After laying the coated cord, valley lines are marked on the slopes, along which the coating is carefully trimmed. The width of the valley is from 5 to 15 cm. To prevent damage to the soft roof during cutting, a board is placed under the tiles. The corners of the tiles located near the valley are trimmed to remove water, then the back side of the covering elements is coated with mastic and glued.
• Closed gutter device. The tiles are laid first on the slope with the smallest slope so that approximately 30 cm of material is located on the adjacent slope. The shingles are secured at the top with nails. Afterwards, the second slope is covered, then a line is beaten on it, 3-5 cm away from the axis, along which cutting is carried out. The corners of the tiles are cut to remove water, and then the cut loose elements are glued to the mastic.

The nuances of laying tiles on a ridge

Upon completion of the installation of the tiles on the slopes, they begin to arrange the ridge. The ventilation ducts in the body of the sheathing must be left open, so a gap of 0.5-2 cm is left between the tops of the slopes. To ensure ventilation, the ridge is equipped with a plastic aerator. It is not very attractive, so for the sake of aesthetics it is decorated with universal ridge-eaves tiles or shingles cut from shingles.

Nail the tiles with 4 nails. Each subsequent element must cover the fasteners of the previous one. The tiles are mounted on the ridges from bottom to top. The ridge is arranged in the direction of the prevailing winds so that open areas turned to leeward.

In detail the process of installing a soft roof with explanations step-by-step technology The video will demonstrate the styling:

No particular difficulties were found in the construction of a soft roof. Eat technological features. If you strictly follow them, you can easily do the installation yourself with excellent results.

For domestic developers in recent decades, bitumen shingles have become the most attractive roofing material. It competes with varying degrees of success only with metal ones; piece ones are left far behind. roofing coverings, including slate.

The more knowledge you have about the material, the easier it is to understand certain requirements for installation technology. This will allow you to avoid many annoying mistakes during roof installation and significantly improve the quality and durability of the coating.

What are bituminous shingles made of?

Layer name	Technical and operational parameters
Base	All top layers are applied to the base; it is made of durable fiberglass. It is not afraid of moisture, it can stretch a little and still not lose its original mechanical strength. The plasticity of fiberglass allows you to compensate for minor changes in the linear dimensions of the roof. There is no need to be afraid of deflections of the rafter system or sheathing, or vibrations between slopes and chimneys. But this does not mean that the rafter system can be unstable; we only mean cases of critical loads during various natural disasters.
Bitumen	Natural bitumen is not used in modern coatings due to very low operational indicators. Over time, it hardens, loses elasticity, and through cracks appear in it. Another problem with simple bitumen is that it reacts very negatively to ultraviolet radiation. To improve physical performance, scientists have developed special additives; the material has become much more resistant to various natural and climatic factors. It is not afraid of UV rays, does not harden at subzero temperatures, etc. But bitumen shingles still cannot be installed at subzero temperatures.
Powder	Slate or basalt is used as a powder; to increase the surface area of ​​individual particles, basalt rocks are crushed into granules and become rounded. Such forms adhere very tightly to the bitumen and crumble more slowly. The granulate performs two functions. The first is purely technical – protecting the modified bitumen from sunlight and mechanical damage. The second is improving the external design appearance.

Prices for various types and manufacturers of flexible tiles

In the building materials market there are a large number of domestic and foreign companies engaged in the production of flexible tiles. There are many types of coatings that differ not only in design, but also in structure: technical characteristics of the base, features of modified bitumen, shape of shingles, external protective and decorative coatings. Accordingly, the installation technology is slightly different, but for all types of bitumen shingles there are several general and mandatory rules.

Base

Soft roofs are installed only on continuous sheathing.

It can be made from OSB boards, plywood or thin edged boards. The last option is the most expensive and most problematic from a technology point of view, and is not recommended. As for plywood and OSB, they fully meet all the requirements, and the thickness is adjusted by the pitch of the sheathing.

Thanks to this approach, it is possible to influence the cost of the structure. For example, lay cheap thin slabs on cheap unedged boards, rather than expensive thick slabs on expensive slats. One more nuance must be kept in mind. Many builders require that only waterproof types of plywood or OSB be purchased for continuous sheathing under soft tiles., although such materials are much more expensive than conventional ones. Why shouldn't you listen to their advice? Firstly, the sheathing should only withstand the load on the roof, and not protect it from leaks. Secondly, leaks must be eliminated immediately; no slabs will eliminate them. The sooner the roof is repaired, the longer the building will be in use. The durability and tightness of the roof in no way depends on the moisture resistance of the continuous sheathing.

Climatic conditions for installation

Most manufacturers claim that their soft tiles can be installed at an air temperature of +5°C. You need to know that this is the minimum temperature at which the adhesion rates of bitumen mastics are minimal. acceptable level, but it does not guarantee the reliability of fixation. In addition, the daytime temperature of +5°C most likely indicates that at night it dropped below zero. In such conditions, frost appears on the surface of the plywood or OSB, and on a cool day the moisture does not have time to dry completely. will arise big problems during sealing of places where chimneys, ventilation pipes and other utilities located on the roof meet the roof. There is no need to risk the quality of the coating; work only in dry and warm weather.

Additional materials

The quality of soft tile shingles affects the appearance and reliability of the coating on flat areas stingrays But leaks most often occur not on smooth slopes, but in junctions, valleys, etc. These places are sealed with special additional elements and materials; only high-quality products must be used. It is very important that all elements and main coatings are from the same manufacturer. In difficult places, it is better to play it safe than to rely on luck and try to simplify the technology recommended by the manufacturer.

Tools

The main rule for all professionals is that the tools must be in good condition and complete. To install soft tiles you will need a drill, spatula, paint brush, metal scissors, measuring tools and beating rope. It is advisable to have a special belt, it is much more convenient to work with, all the necessary tools are always at hand. Experienced builders know how much work time can be saved if everything needed for installation is within reach and in its place. If the installation technology involves hot gluing, then you need to have a hair dryer for heating.

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Pneumatic staplers

Coverage storage rules

Before installation begins, it is opened and shingles from different packs are mixed. The fact is that production technology does not allow making them completely identical in shades. external coverings, if they are not mixed evenly, then large multi-colored spots will be noticeable on the roof, which significantly worsens the appearance of the building.

Underlay carpets are stored in a vertical position.

Preparing the sheathing

In our case, the continuous sheathing is made of OSB boards with a thickness of only 9 mm; to increase the load-bearing capacity, we had to reduce the sheathing pitch. If in the future it is planned to insulate the roof from the inside, then it is necessary to install wind protection and provide vents for natural ventilation. Prepare materials and tools, mix shingles from different packs.

Important. Never work on a roof without insurance. Especially if the sheathing is solid, there are no slats on it that can delay the fall. In the absence of special professional equipment, you can use ordinary ropes and belts. We must remember that all safety regulations are written in someone’s blood.

The slabs need to arrive randomly, this increases the stability of the rafter system. For fixation, you can use ordinary nails (quick, durable and cheap) or self-tapping screws (long, expensive, but fashionable).

It is not necessary to fix the slabs using hardware made of stainless alloys; they are not affected by precipitation. The length of the nails must be at least 2/3 greater than the thickness of the materials being fastened.

But this statement is very controversial. First, the slab, firmly nailed big amount nails, and will not be able to expand freely; to do this, it must tear out the hardware. Secondly, it is protected by a lining and flexible tiles, which almost completely eliminates direct contact with water. Thirdly, if any leakage occurs, it will be local in nature and cannot wet the entire slab. Conclusion - there is no need to maintain any special gaps. They are there - great, no - not a problem. If for technological reasons you need to press tightly in some areas of the slab, press it. If you need to move it a little to the sides, let there be gaps.

Inexperienced builders do not know how to relate in practice the relationship between slab thickness and sheathing pitch. It's easy to do. Put it on rafter legs two slats at a distance of approximately 50 cm, on top of an OSB board. Press it with your hand with maximum force; if the surface sags, then reduce the pitch of the sheathing; if not, then you can increase it. There is no need to do long and complex calculations, parameters are determined in just a few minutes.

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OSB (oriented strand board)

Laying valleys and underlay carpet

The laying of soft tiles begins with these operations. There is no big difference in the technology of installing coatings from different manufacturers and price categories. If you fully understand one type of roofing, then you can work with others without any problems. All work should begin with checking the slopes. You need to find out their length and width, measure the diagonals. The optimal case is that the roof has an ideal rectangular shape. If there are problems, then they need to be corrected partly at the stage of manufacturing the sheathing, and partly during the actual covering. The ratio should be chosen so that after corrections the roof has a symmetrical appearance.

Object before laying flexible tiles and installing OSB-3 slabs

Step 1. Work begins with valleys (joints of two slopes). Lay an underlay carpet in them; it is sold as a set with a roof. The color of the front surface matches the color of the tiles.

The width of the carpet is at least one meter, there should be approximately 50 cm of protection on both sides. Carefully align the material, avoiding wrinkles. Cut off any excess pieces. After the fitting is completed, you should coat the edges with bitumen mastic and finally glue the carpet. The mastic must be of high quality, the width of the coated strip is at least ten centimeters. The thickness of the mastic layer is approximately 1 mm, cover the entire surface with the material without gaps, use a stainless steel spatula of the appropriate width.

The valley carpet is glued in parts after trying on and checking the position. Make sure that it does not move while pressing. You can press with your hands or with a hard rubber roller. To guarantee, nail it with wide-headed nails. But it is not necessary to do this; the valley carpet is covered from above with bedding and then with shingles of soft tiles. Drive the cloves in increments of 20–25 cm at a distance of three centimeters from the edge.

Step 2. Spread the lining carpet along the main slope from bottom to top. Pay attention to the white stripes, they should be at the top. Subsequently, the protective paper is removed from these strips and the next strip of coating is glued. The tape should be as even as possible; start fixing only after checking the position along the entire length.

Practical advice. If the roof slope has a very big sizes, then you can make intermediate fixation of the coating every 2.5–3.0 m, but the nails do not need to be driven in completely. They can be completely hammered in only after the roll has been rolled out to the edge of the slope and all folds have been removed.

Carefully cut off the excess along the edge of the slope. Secure the underlying carpet with nails, drive them in the usual order along the white strip, and later this place will be closed.

Step 3. When the first strip is fixed, you can begin laying the second. Carefully ensure that both white paper protective tapes are placed opposite each other, constantly checking the position of the material. Everything is fine - remove the protective paper from both strips and glue the covering. If the length of the roll is not enough, then the joining place must be overlapped by about 10 cm and be sure to coat it with bitumen mastic.

Using the same method, continue to cover the entire ramp sheathing. A gap must be placed on the ridge to ventilate the space above the insulation. Be sure to glue the underlay carpet to the valley; we have already mentioned that these places are the most dangerous; leaks most often appear here.

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Underlay carpet

Fastening cornice and end metal strips

These are not only decorative elements, they perform an important technical task - they protect the sheathing from moisture and prevent the underlay from being undermined by sharp gusts of side wind.

Step 1. Reinstall the first eaves strip, making sure that it is in line with the bottom edge of the slope sheathing. Fix it with nails in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of approximately 20–25 cm. In these places it is advisable to use galvanized hardware, although ordinary ones will last for decades. Slide the next plank under the previous one so that it fits in place, cut the corner with metal scissors.

Step 2. Nail the end (wind) metal strips, the fixing method is the same as described above. The joining point is fixed with a separate nail. Make sure that there is no gap in the corner where the cornice and wind strip meet. Make a small release and carefully cut off the sharp corner with scissors.

Such work should be done along the entire perimeter of the roof. When all the strips are in place, you can begin installing the flexible tiles.

Practical advice. To make the work easier, it is recommended to make a simple rope ladder. The leg is inserted into the loops, and the hands hold onto the knots. Such a simple device not only increases the safety of work, but also makes it easier for the roofer to climb a steep slope.

Laying soft tiles

You need to start working by accurately marking the position of the first row; for this purpose, a line is marked on the lining. How exactly? Measure the width of the soft tile from the edge and add 10 mm to this value, this is how much the first row should retreat from the bend of the eaves strip. Such marks should be on both sides of the slope. Then, using a construction cord, you need to beat off the line. The markings made will speed up the work, and there will be no need to take measurements each time. In addition, with its help it will be possible to make the first row perfectly even, and this is what first of all catches the eye.

Step 1. Carefully inspect the back side of the tiles, there are two films there. One says that it cannot be removed before installation, but the other says the opposite. Remove the wide tape; it will reveal a layer of adhesive bitumen.

Step 2. Lay the first shingle so that its top edge lies exactly along the cut line. Align the edges, they should be located at a distance of 10 mm from the wind and cornice strips. Press the adhesive layer firmly onto the metal. Next, continue working according to the same algorithm, the shingles of the eaves tiles should be even at the joints, no overlaps are made.

Step 3. Start gluing regular shingles. Before installation, you also need to remove the protective polyethylene film.

Important. Ordinary tiles are 10 mm narrower than the eaves. For proper installation, you need to align the upper ends of the materials along the same line; at the bottom there will be a difference in length of one centimeter.

Make sure that the ends are perfectly parallel to the metal strips. Press the shingles firmly with your hands. We have already mentioned that the warmer it is outside, the better the coating adheres, the more reliable the fixation.

Drive nails with wide heads at a distance of 1 cm under each adhesive strip. There is one peculiarity - at the top of the shingles, only one nail is driven in at the corners. In this way, secure the entire first row of shingles.

Step 4. After completing the installation of the first row of conventional shingles, you can begin the second. The technology requires that the second row be glued with a shift, due to this the joints of the first shingles are covered and sealed, and at the same time the heads of the driven nails are closed. Manufacturers have provided for such an offset; there is no need to measure anything. Step back the width of the adhesive strips and position the next shingle above them, taking into account the dimensions of the cutouts. Further, the installation technology is no different.

Due to the fact that the second row is laid offset, the outermost shingles will have to be cut. Place it in place and mark the cutting locations. It is better to cut soft tiles on small wooden stands; they are guaranteed to protect the litter from accidental damage. But experienced roofers do this on already installed shingles, turn the shingles reverse side and carefully cut off with a sharp knife. It is not recommended for beginners to do this; the risks of damaging the coating are too great.

Step 5. On each fixed row, in turn, bend the sheets of soft tiles and hammer a nail under them. Then coat the back of the petal with mastic and glue it to the bottom shingle. The petals have bitumen under a protective film, but to guarantee adhesion strength, experienced builders recommend additionally lubricating the surfaces with mastic. This does not take much time and completely prevents the elements from being undermined by gusts of wind.

How to design a valley and ridge

Find the exact location of the valley, step back 2–3 cm and insert a thin wooden slats. It is needed to ensure that the coating is not damaged when cutting off sections of the flexible roof protruding beyond the bend. You need to cut them with a sharp knife under a metal ruler (you can use a building level), it will take a lot of effort, achieve the most even and accurate cut possible. Move the wooden batten up the valley as needed and continue cutting off excess soft tiles. After this, you need to completely lay the tiles on the second adjacent slope and again make a cut along the bend. You will get an even and beautiful junction of two slopes.

A special additional element is mounted on the ridge. It should close the gap from rain and snow and at the same time provide effective ventilation of the under-roof space. We have already mentioned that this is necessary for warm roofs; if they are cold, then ventilation is not done. The panel bends under the right angle and placed on the ridge, fixed with nails with anti-corrosion coating or made of stainless alloys. To protect against ultraviolet radiation and improve the design appearance, the surface of the plastic ridge element is covered with flexible tiles, which are nailed. Don’t forget to put special foam tapes in place; they prevent insects from entering the ventilated space.

Video - Installation of bitumen shingles