When choosing how to insulate a wooden floor in a private home, they are based, first of all, on financial capabilities. Thus, expanded polystyrene is the most economical option, expanded clay is more expensive but is the most environmentally friendly, and mineral wool is easy to install and unattractive to rodents.
A warm base is the key to a warm floor
Before you start insulating the floor, you need to make sure that the base is thermally and waterproofed. At the same time, we must not forget about ventilation, which will prevent the development of fungi and mold in the underground. Because it destroys wooden base and the floor will last very little.
Insulation of the basement floor
If the house has a basement or ground floor, you need to take care of their insulation and waterproofing. This will prevent the basement from freezing in the winter and keep it cool in the summer. After all, the basement non-residential floor is often used specifically for storing food, and if it is located above the freezing level of the soil, such measures are mandatory. But there is no need to insulate an unheated basement underground.
The basement floor is insulated from the outside extruded polystyrene foam, since it is not hygroscopic, unlike ordinary polystyrene foam. The insulation must be laid on waterproofing, such as bitumen and roofing felt. The base is dug out a meter and the EPS is attached to a special glue.
After this, the soil is backfilled layer by layer.
On the ground part of the basement floor, the insulation is laid with glue, and fixed on top with dowels and reinforcing mesh. The final stage is facing the base. The material can be any - from decorative stone to PVC panels. But it is better to choose a damage-resistant and moisture-repellent material.
If the base is low, about 50 cm, it is better to fill the space under the subfloor. This option will turn out to be much warmer - there is no cold air under the floor of the house, there is no need to install vents that will have to be closed for the winter.
Backfilling is done with ordinary soil, and the last 10 cm to the floor is filled with sand. Both soil and sand must be compacted separately in a wet state.
More high plinth it is not economically profitable to fall asleep. In this case, it will have to be insulated according to the same principle as the ground floor, but organize vents for ventilation that remain open in summer time and close in winter. Special attention should be paid to insulating the basement for a house on a columnar or pile foundation.
Freely “walking” cold wind significantly increases heat loss from the floor.
General features of wooden floor insulation
When the base is in order, you can proceed directly to the floor. Regardless of the stage of work (during the construction process or in an already inhabited house), do-it-yourself insulation includes:
- Laying or checking and replacing joists.
- Laying waterproofing on the joists (or under them if the joists are lying on sand).
- Laying insulation between joists.
- A layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation.
- Installation of a counter-lattice for the gap between the finished floor and the vapor barrier.
- Finished flooring.
For waterproofing you can use any roll material- from thick polyethylene to innovative, but expensive, materials.
For vapor barrier, it is best to use foamed polyethylene with aluminum coating On the one side.
This will provide both additional insulation floor, and will prevent condensation from entering the insulation. If the winters are not very cold, sometimes only a layer of polyethylene foam is enough without additional insulation. But it is better to insulate the floor as well as possible, because then you will have to remove the covering again if the insulation is not enough.
The vapor barrier is laid with the “shiny” side facing finished floor. Both hydro- and vapor barriers are laid overlapping with an allowance of at least 10 cm, and the joints are sealed with metallized tape.
Insulation with roll and tile materials
Even at the stage of installing the log, you need to decide what material will be used for insulation. Depending on its width and length, the lag pitch will be selected, between which the insulation is laid very tightly and without gaps.
Ideally, the height of the logs should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but given the need for an air gap between the vapor barrier and the finished wooden floor, you can simply not make a counter-lattice. In this case, the vapor barrier is attached with a construction stapler to the sides of the logs so that it lies on the mineral wool without an air gap between them.
It is important to remember that the sides of the slabs have different hardness. This type of insulation is installed with the hard side up. For convenience, the desired side is already marked with a blue stripe, so it’s difficult to make a mistake.
It is best to use slabs with corrugated edges - this will provide the best adhesion. Lay the slabs as tightly as possible, starting from the corner. The next row begins with an offset of half the slab. The last slabs must enter with force. Possible cracks are sealed with construction foam.
Insulation with bulk and sprayed materials
There are also more “exotic” ways to insulate floors in a house. For example, sawdust is increasingly used as a natural and environmentally friendly material.
The technology is not very different:
- on the slabs fixed under the joists, a vapor-permeable material is laid, not polyethylene;
- sawdust is poured out between the joists and watered with a weak lime mortar from a watering can;
- As soon as the material dries and settles, the finished floor is laid - no vapor barrier is needed.
But here you need to pay attention Special attention hydro- and vapor barriers, as well as dryness of the expanded clay itself. Because of its pores, it is very hygroscopic, but practically does not release moisture. Therefore, when improper installation Expanded clay that has accumulated moisture will only worsen the situation.
Insulating the floor of a house with sprayed materials - polyurethane foam, ecowool or penoizol - is practically impossible to do on your own, and in some cases it is dangerous. This will require special equipment, and its purchase for insulation small house extremely unprofitable.
The process of installing a wooden subfloor, its insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier is revealed in detail in the video:
Floor insulation reduces heat loss in the house and affects the temperature in the rooms.
The better the thermal insulation of the floor, the less funds goes to pay for gas or electricity for heating.
An insufficiently insulated floor leads to a decrease in the air temperature in the room, which negatively affects the health of the inhabitants of the house.
This article will discuss ways to solve the issue of thermal insulation. various types floor.
The following materials are used for floor insulation:
- mineral wool;
- foam boards;
- foamed polyurethane;
- reflective foil insulation;
- linoleum;
- Self-leveling floors.
Insulation of a wooden floor
In half of the houses with wooden floors, the joists are located 10 or more centimeters above ground level. They are fixed in wall niches and supported by stone or brick tables standing on the ground. When laying a floor on concrete, the joists are placed directly on the surface of the slab.
The floor insulation scheme is as follows: a material with low thermal conductivity is placed between the concrete or soil and the coating, and measures are taken to ensure that the material does not reduce the strength of the floor.
This scheme is used on concrete and wooden floors for any reason.
Expanded clay
This is the easiest way to insulate floors in an apartment. Remove the covering and subfloor, mark it so as not to confuse it during subsequent installation. Inspect and, if necessary, repair the joists.
Fill in expanded clay. The backfill level should be 2-3 cm below the subfloor. Reinstall and lay the covering.
Foam boards or mineral wool
Remove the covering, subfloor, repair the joists. If the floor is mounted on concrete, cut the insulation into pieces the width of the joists and lay it on the floor. If the logs are on bedside tables, cut strips of plywood 10 mm thick, 20 cm wide and 1-1.5 meters long. Place the strips at the bottom of the joists until they look like an inverted T.
Secure with self-tapping screws. The distance between the strips is 20-30 cm. Treat all the joists. Measure the distance between the joists and cut strips of plywood 5-7 mm thick to that width. The distance between joists varies, so measure separately for each sheet. After cutting out the sheets, place them between the joists. Do not leave a gap between sheets of more than 1 cm.
Cut and lay insulation on sheets. Try not to make gaps between the insulation and the joists. The amount of insulation depends on financial capabilities. If possible, install one centimeter below the subfloor level. This will improve the thermal insulation of the floor.
Cut strips of vapor-permeable film, sold in construction and hardware stores. Determine the width using the formula: average distance between lags + 15 cm.
Video - insulating a wooden floor in wooden house:
Place the film on the insulation, leaving equal projections on the joists. Wrap the protruding parts 2-4 times. Avoid wrinkles from forming. Press the hems to the joist and secure with a staple gun. Drive staples every 5 cm. Lay and secure the subfloor, then the covering.
Reflective thermal insulation
Remove the covering and subfloor, repair the joists. Cut the seal so that one piece completely covers the gap between the two joists. Do not use multiple pieces - each joint between pieces reduces the insulation efficiency by 5-10 percent.
Determine the width of the pieces using the formula - the distance between the logs + 10 cm. Place the insulation with the foil towards the top. Secure it on one side to the joist using a stapler. The fixing height is 1 cm from the subfloor level. Fasten the other side in the same way. Lay and secure the subfloor, then the covering.
Foamed polyurethane
Remove the covering and subfloor, repair the joists. If the floor is on bedside tables, install plywood as described above in the section “Insulation with foam boards or mineral wool.”
Fill the resulting niche with a layer of 2-3 cm of polyurethane foam. Wait for the mixture to completely harden and lay the subfloor and coating in place.
When working with polyurethane, use a protective suit, goggles and a respirator. The drug is toxic.
Insulation of concrete floor
Foamed sheet materials
If the height of the room allows you to raise the floor by 15-20 cm, remove the covering and remove any remaining adhesive. Fill up any uneven surfaces. Cover the entire floor with insulation. Use thick polystyrene sheets, rigid foam and other dense materials. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 cm. Place a two-layer reinforcing mesh made of steel or fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 10-15 mm.
Install beacons from boards measuring 25*125 mm. These boards will provide a smooth horizontal surface of the screed and provide temperature compensation for the concrete. The drying time of the screed is 25-30 days. After drying, lay down the covering. But is a floor screed necessary? panel house, where the ceiling height is already low, it’s up to you to decide.
If the ceiling height does not allow such an increase, use wooden blocks measuring 30*30 or 30*60 mm. Lay them across the room along the entire length. Secure with anchor dowels. The distance between the bars is 20 cm. Fill the space between them with foam plastic 25-30 mm thick.
Cover the floor with vapor-permeable film and cover it with 20 mm thick plywood. Join plywood only on blocks. Secure with self-tapping screws 35-40 mm long. Recess the screws by 0.5-1 mm. On top, parquet, cork or linoleum.
This technology is used to insulate the floor in an apartment on the first floor, because the height of the ceilings does not allow laying two screeds.
Mineral wool or expanded clay
Expanded clay has the following characteristics:
- excellent heat and sound insulation;
- high strength;
- fire resistance;
- frost resistance;
- environmental friendliness and durability.
Carry out insulation in the same way as for foamed sheet materials, when you cannot increase the height of the floor.
Reflective foil insulation or technical cork
Remove the coating, clean the concrete from traces of glue, and fill in any uneven areas. After four days, cover the room with insulation. When using multiple pieces, ensure there are no gaps. Place the insulation with the foil facing up.
Lay plywood 25-30 mm thick on top of the insulation, securing it with anchor dowels in the amount of 9 pcs per square meter. The permissible gap size between sheets is 1 mm. On top, laminate, solid wood or linoleum.
Liquid floor
The use of “liquid floor” material gives the worst thermal insulation parameters of all those described in the article. At the same time, self-leveling floors make it possible to create a strong screed that does not require reinforcement and reduce the pressure on wooden floors. The cost of such a screed is 5-7 times higher than a traditional one.
Linoleum
In terms of thermal insulation properties, linoleums are on par with self-leveling floors. Therefore, the use of insulated linoleum alone will not give a noticeable effect. When used with any insulation, you will improve thermal insulation by 5-10 percent.
Floor insulation requires an individual approach. There is no single standard the best materials or technology. It all depends on the conditions, condition of the floor and financial capabilities. Sheets of foam materials provide good insulation, but are not suitable for all floors. Foil reflective insulation has 10-20 times worse thermal insulation parameters, but is used to insulate any floor.
The wrong choice of material will lead to the fact that the strength of the floor and the height of the room will be greatly reduced. Don't try to save money by using more cheap technology. Better find less material famous manufacturer or use thinner insulation.
Video - thermal insulation of the first floor floor:
Reading time ≈ 11 minutes
Saving energy resources in your own home is not an empty phrase - it is a real problem, on which the comfort and financial situation of the family directly depend. In this regard, sometimes the question arises of how to do it yourself without removing the old floor, that is, in fact, to install a budget one, but at the same time quality option insulation. This desire cannot in any way be attributed to a whim or to something impossible to fulfill - the most important thing here is the right approach to the situation and this requires certain knowledge.
In what cases is floor insulation necessary?
The principle of insulation of any floor
More than once we have had to deal with situations where residents of a house or apartment asked for assistance in insulating the floor in order to somehow reduce heating costs. But the thing is that this is not always correct and insulation is needed not on the floor, but on the walls or ceiling, or it is not needed at all - the problem lies in bad windows and the front door.
In what cases does the floor need insulation:
- this is the first floor of a private house, where concrete floors located close to the ground are laid as a rough foundation;
- first floor apartment building– cold penetrates from the basement;
- there is a basement or under the floor;
- private house built in the northern region;
- sound-absorbing insulation is required.
What materials are used in such cases?
Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) of different thicknesses
If you install insulation on top of an old floor, then the conclusion inevitably arises that the material cannot be free-flowing, but it must be thin. Such conclusions are certainly correct, but only partly, since in some cases thick and sometimes loose insulation products are suitable.
What materials can be used:
- Extruded. This is perhaps the most powerful insulation, although it is also one of the most expensive, which are listed below. The thickness of the material varies from 5 mm to 100 mm. Normal density for household use 35-45 kg/cm3. Depending on the manufacturer, the name of extrusion products may change, these are:
- EPPS.
- XPS..
- Pollan.
- TechnoNIKOL.
- Etc.
- . Currently construction market is replete with such products, which are produced in rolls and mats (plates), with and without foil coating. There are three main types of such insulation:
- – is currently practically not used for domestic purposes.
- – made from blast furnace slag melts. Due to the iron (Fe) particles that remain there, the material is undesirable for use in rooms with high humidity.
- Stone wool – also known as basalt wool. It is made from melts of volcanic eruptions (basalt) and is considered the best of all three in technical and technological terms, but at the same time, the most expensive.
- . By appearance very similar to extrusion, but it is simply foamed plastic with air-filled cells and a lower density (15-25 kg/m3). The thickness of the panels is from 20mm to 200mm. Marked as PSB and PSB-S (does not burn, only melts).
- . It is also called liquid foam, but in fact, it is urea-formaldehyde foam (UF) in liquid form. Its density in the hardened state can be 6-60 kg/m3, but in construction options from 10 to 15 kg/m3 are used.
- . This material belongs to reflective thermal insulation, as it is foamed polyethylene covered with aluminum foil on one or both sides. It is produced exclusively in rolls, its thickness ranges from 2 to 10 mm.
- Cork. As a rule, it is used as a substrate for laminate and linoleum. Serves as heat and sound absorbing insulation.
- . It is a very light, hard, porous material that is produced by firing shale or pure clay. Its density ranges from 350 to 650 kg/m3. There are four fractions of such material, determined by grain size:
- Large – 20-40 mm.
- Average – 10-20 mm.
- Small – 5-10 mm.
- Sand – up to 5 mm.
Note. Using fine expanded clay and expanded clay sand, the installation of dry screed is carried out. This is very often done on top of plank or other flooring.
Some methods of insulation over the facing floor covering
There is no point in considering all the options for how to insulate the floors in a private house with your own hands without removing the old floor, since some are simply similar in technical design. Therefore, we focus our attention not on the materials, which, by the way, are already listed above, but on the ways in which you can achieve the desired result.
All work begins with determining the zero or finishing level of the face covering, and this is in in this case is an instruction for laying all the materials listed above. That is, before you begin installing the sheathing, you need to calculate the height of the ceilings and determine how much distance can be sacrificed, since not all rooms can be very high. In Soviet times, this question was simple: living room had at least 2.5 m in height, but now everything has changed. So, according to SNiP 41-01-2003, ceilings can be from 2.2 to 2.7 m in height, but this is convenient, for example, for the Chinese with an average height of 165 cm, but for a European under two meters such standards are at least may cause a feeling of discomfort.
Installing joists on top of the old floor
Logs can be installed on top of the old floor without removing the covering
Let's imagine that we have the opportunity to raise the floor by 10 cm, but this is by no means the thickness of the insulation, but zero, which is possible at a certain height of the room. For insulation, it is more advisable to use lumber as the front covering: boards, moisture-resistant or laminated plywood, as well as oriented strand board of strength and moisture resistance class 3-4 (OSB-3, OSB-4). However, you can lay other facing materials such as linoleum, carpet or laminate - this is no longer included in the definition of height.
The minimum thickness of the boards in this situation should be 25-30 mm, but this is only if the logs are installed in increments of no more than 400-500 mm - as the increment increases, the thickness of the board increases proportionally. If used sheet materials such as plywood or OSB, then the pitch should also be kept no more than 400-500 mm, although the permissible sheet thickness here may already be 18-20 mm.
But before installing logs on top of the old floor, without removing the front covering, you should make sure that it is mechanical strength and integrity, this is especially important for wooden structures. It may be that the floor became cold due to dampness, and this in turn destroyed the wood (floorboards and/or joists). In this case, it is necessary to repair the damaged areas - it is still easier than complete replacement. In cases where dampness has not disappeared or is found on the wood fungal mold, it is strictly not recommended to lay any other covering on top! Installation is possible only if the old floor is intact, dry and free of dampness and fungal mold.
You can use timber as a log, but this is not rational - it is much more profitable to use a board 50 mm thick, for example, 50×100 or 50×70 mm, or a 50×50 mm timber. Such beams are usually attached to the floor using plastic dowels and long self-tapping screws, but all profiles should be set strictly at level.
This is a molly-type anchor dowel - not suitable for fastening floor joists
Attention! I would like to warn you that there is a widespread opinion on the Internet, or simply a repetition of someone else’s misconception, that logs are fixed with anchors, implying a steel umbrella dowel of the molly type. Such fastening is only possible if the fixation line constantly coincides with the voids in the ceiling, but this is impossible in principle.
Insulation with foam plastic and mineral wool
Floor insulation with foam plastic over ceramic parquet
This method of laying insulation is most suitable for mineral wool and polystyrene foam, although no one and nothing prohibits the use of extruded polystyrene foam of any brand as insulation. Panels or mats are laid between the joists, trying to press closely against them in order to eliminate most of the cracks and gaps, although in practice this is impossible, but this is not critical.
In the case of laying mineral wool of any type (roll or in slabs), all remaining cracks are sealed with scraps of material, which will certainly remain during installation. Mat width basalt wool according to the standard it is 450 mm, therefore, the distance between the two edges (not the centers) of the beams should be about 400-420 mm so that the slab fits tightly into the seat.
When laying foam plastic, where the panel is standard 1000x1000 mm, it can be cut exactly in half, that is, into two fragments of 500x1000 mm each. The logs are installed so that they side walls turned out to be at a distance of 497-499 mm. No, this is not rocket science at all, you just need to try to ensure that the PSB-S sheets fit closely into the seat, but if there is still room for a gap, then this is not critical. All cracks and small gaps are filled with a mounting vein, which does not even have to be cut off after drying.
Attention! When laying polystyrene foam or mineral wool for floor insulation, it is imperative to create a ventilation gap, which significantly increases the service life of the lumber. The ventilation gap is the distance between the insulation and the underside of boards or sheets of plywood or OSB; it should be at least 20-25 mm. This device promotes natural air circulation under the coating, preventing artificial accumulation of moisture that forms when cleaning the room.
Insulation with penoizol
Insulation of a wooden floor with foam insulation
Penoizol or urea-formaldehyde foam (UFP) is in most cases used for floor insulation, although it can also be used for walls, for example, blown into the gap of a well masonry. You can blow penoizol either under a covering (boards, plywood, OSB) or without it, although it is best to use the second option, since in the open space you can see the level of filling of the material between the joists. Urea-formaldehyde foam has one good feature: it does not increase when drying, like polyurethane foam, therefore, the level that was initially set will remain until the end. This allows you to provide the required distance (20-25 mm) for ventilation gap between the face covering and the CFP.
It is seen: Fast way floor insulation
Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam or cork
Floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam under laminate
Materials such as extruded polystyrene foam and cork are widely popular for floor insulation, but most often they are purchased in rolls and used as a backing for laminate or linoleum. But it is also possible to use other modifications of such materials, this is a slab version of the product. So that no one has any doubts, I will say that when installing penoplex or cork on the floor, they can easily walk on the panels with their feet and no dents remain, although they can be easily cut with a knife. That is, you can cover the floor with EPS panels, for example, 30 mm thick and lay directly on top of it parquet board, laminate, plywood or OSB. Installation of any rigid floating floor is allowed here.
Floor insulation under infrared film
Thermal insulation of the floor with penofol under infrared film
When installing a film heated floor, a reflector is usually placed underneath, and this is most often penofol or foil-foil-foamed polyethylene. That is, the material itself can be used as a regular insulating substrate for laminate flooring, but this is a special case. An IPO or infrared film heater does not heat the room, but the IR rays reflected from objects and hitting a person create a warming effect, keeping the air fresh. Aluminum foil, with which the substrate is covered in this case, is the best reflector of IR radiation, therefore, in such cases, it is best to choose foam foil.
Video: Insulating the floor under the carpet
Dry screed
Laying dry screed on expanded clay sand
Dry itself is warm, since its main component is a material that conducts poorly thermal energy, this is fine expanded clay or expanded clay sand. Essentially, in this case, you are killing two birds with one stone, so to speak, one of which is a cold floor, and the other is the lack of an even base for any facial covering. Dry screed can be installed not only concrete floors, but also wooden and mineral (concrete, ceramic tile) semi.
Conclusion
As you can see, the question of how to insulate the floors in a private house with your own hands without removing the old floor does not represent any complex, much less an insoluble problem. As you noticed, the description used, so to speak, fundamental methods, but the videos used life hacks - choose what you like best!
Wooden floors are more often than others, especially recently, used in the construction of private country houses and cottages. Floors are constructed according to wooden beams, and on reinforced concrete floors.
The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of stone or concrete, making it warmer to the touch. Nevertheless, very often it is necessary to insulate wooden floors, especially on the first floors of buildings.
Types of wooden floors
The method of insulation largely depends on the design of the wooden floor. There are three types of it:
- planks;
- plywood;
- parquet.
Plank floors are made by laying boards over joists - wooden blocks, mounted at a certain distance. Such structures are very often made in wooden houses. Plank floors can immediately form a top finishing coat, but may be the basis for some other decorative material. In the second case, such floors are called subfloors.
To ensure that the boards in the spaces between the joists do not sag from the weight of people or any objects standing on the floor, they are connected to each other when laying. To do this, the boards are tongue-and-groove, creating a groove on one edge and a tenon on the other. When installing the floor, the boards are pulled together, the tenons fit into the grooves, creating a massive wooden shield, lying on the joists.
Plywood floors are used mainly as subfloors. Plywood is also laid over the joists and secured. Any covering can be mounted on top of plywood: linoleum, parquet, laminate.
Parquet floors are a series of slabs of hardwood that are laid in a special order to form decorative ornament. Parquet can be laid either on a rough wooden floor or on a concrete floor.
Depending on the type of floor, insulation methods will vary. To choose the right one, you need to take into account the purpose of the building - is it a residential house or a summer house. Much also depends on load-bearing structures, methods of insulation in wood, brick or aerated concrete houses may vary. It is also necessary to take into account the presence or absence of a basement under the floor.
Materials
There are many ways to protect inner space at home from the cold, but first of all you need to insulate the floor and roof, since it is through these structural elements major heat loss occurs. Only when these structures are well protected from the cold does it make sense to insulate them wooden house from inside or outside.
It is advisable to insulate the floors of the second and subsequent floors if they are installed on concrete floors.
Used for insulation various materials having a low thermal conductivity coefficient:
- polystyrene foam or penoplex;
- polyurethane foam;
- mineral or glass wool;
- penofol;
- wood sawdust.
Each of them has its own advantages, and in most cases the choice depends on the availability of a particular material and the personal preferences of the homeowner. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the climate in which the wooden house is located, on its location in relation to the ground level, as well as on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Thermoplastics
Note! For comparison: the thermal efficiency of 5 cm thick foam is equivalent to brickwork 75 cm thick.
It is convenient to use such materials, as they are produced in the form of sheets of various thicknesses. Transporting them to the construction site is not a hassle. They are very light and durable. You can cut polystyrene foam or penoplex using the usual stationery knife. When insulating the surface, they can seal the resulting gaps at the joints of conventional polyurethane foam. Adhesion with insulation is very good.
Polyurethane foam is a material that is more commonly seen in everyday life as foam mats. Such mats are not used in construction, and polyurethane foam is applied to the surface by spraying. Later, during the process of hardening and polymerization, it foams and hardens. As a result, polyurethane foam forms a durable, waterproof, airtight, warm coat for building structures.
Mineral wool
Various construction wools have been used as insulation for a very long time. Currently, glass wool, mineral or basalt wool are most often used.
In appearance and production technology, they are very similar to each other, differing from each other only in the raw materials used. To obtain them, raw materials are heated, melted using special equipment, and then drawn into threads. Later, when these fibers harden, looms that vaguely resemble weaving machines knit a bulky mass of low density from them.
Such insulation is produced in the form of rectangular mats of various thicknesses or in the form of rolls.
Penofol
Penofol refers to thin plates or sheets of polyethylene foam. Their thickness can be from 3 mm to 10 mm. In terms of thermal insulation qualities, this material is comparable to foam plastic or penoplex, but it is more convenient to work with due to the fact that it is flexible. Penofol is produced and supplied for sale and to construction sites in rolls 0.5 meters and 1 meter wide.
The insulation is produced in three versions - foil on one side, on both sides, or foil on one side and with an adhesive layer applied on the other. The latter option is most preferable to use, since installation of such insulation takes very little time. Enough to cut from a sheet necessary preparation and, separating protective film from the adhesive layer, attach to wooden surface and press briefly.
Sawdust
Sawdust has traditionally been used as insulation, since it was a by-product of any sawmill production, and its origin has always accompanied the production of lumber. For a very long time, sawdust was used to insulate wooden floors, falling asleep in layers between the joists.
A mass of sawdust, if it is not subject to getting wet, can lie in storage for years. closed space and don't cake. At the same time, the low density of such insulation is maintained, which provides excellent thermal insulation properties. The disadvantage of such insulation is that the sawdust cakes very quickly and even begins to rot, as soon as you wet them a little. To prevent rotting of sawdust and damage by various wood borers, they are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate or the sawdust is mixed with lime.
Plank and plywood floors on joists
The ideal option is one in which the floor insulation is carried out during the construction stage of the building. In this case, you can provide for all the nuances and avoid mistakes and unnecessary time and material waste. Maximum effect from insulation will be obtained only if the level of the wooden floor of the first floor is located at a distance of at least 25-30 cm from the ground level planned around the building.
Floors in wooden houses are arranged on beams, which are laid at the same level as the first crown of the log house. Logs are laid on top of the beams, and a board or plywood covering is placed on top of them. When insulating a wooden floor during construction, you can place thermal insulation material between the beams. To do this, along their entire length, skull blocks are nailed from below, on which board or plywood flooring rests. Between two adjacent beams a space is formed that can be filled with insulation.
Note! Before laying insulation, you need to lay a layer of vapor barrier.
In this case, it must be oriented so that water vapor from the insulation escapes into the underground. They are removed from the underground space through special ventilation holes, which must be provided in the foundation. In the winter, these vents are usually closed to prevent cold air from entering the space under the floor.
If there is a basement
If there is a basement under the first floor of the house, there may be no ventilation holes in the foundation. In this case, basement ventilation must be provided. It is often performed by outputting ventilation pipe up above the roof and installed along any of the walls of the house.
Additional vapor barrier
After laying the insulation, it is necessary to install another layer of vapor barrier, the vapor permeability coefficient of which will be several times less than that of the bottom layer. For this you can use the most common plastic film or any rolled foil materials. In this case, the foil should be placed towards the internal volume of the room, then it will have a reflective effect for heat. Logs are laid over the top layer of vapor barrier, and boards or plywood are mounted.
The thickness of the log will ensure the presence of a mandatory air gap between top layer vapor barrier and floor covering. Ventilation in this gap can be ensured by drilling several holes in the floor in the corners of the room or using special slotted skirting boards.
In the case of an old building
If you have to carry out insulation in already constructed buildings, the method described above is not suitable, since it is irrational to open up existing wooden floors. In this case, if the floor height allows, the old coating can be used as a subfloor. You need to lay logs with insulation on it and a new plank covering on top of them. Just as in accordance with the method described above, a layer of vapor barrier must be laid under the insulation and a denser membrane must also be mounted on top of the insulation.
Using the same scheme as insulating the floor, you can insulate the ceiling or ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands. The difference will be that a vapor barrier layer with a high penetration coefficient will have to be mounted on top so that moisture from the insulation is removed not into the room, but into a ventilated attic or outside.
Parquet and parquet boards
Parquet floors can be either a stacked combination of individual tiles or a covering made of parquet boards. In both cases, the parquet is laid on a flat, prepared base. It can be a cement-sand screed or sheet wood material. To prevent the parquet floor from being cold, you can insulate it in several ways.
A significant insulating effect is achieved by using a foam polyethylene backing placed under the parquet board. This substrate is similar in structure to the insulating material penofol. The only difference is that it does not have a foil layer.
Note! If inlaid parquet is laid on a base made of plywood or particle boards, the insulating layer of penofol can be placed under the wood base directly on the surface of the concrete slab.
When parquet tiles are glued directly onto cement-sand screed, you need to insulate it.
Penofol or penoplex are used. To do this, a layer of insulation is glued to a reinforced concrete floor slab, and then a screed is poured. Beforehand, penofol tape must be glued around the perimeter of the room to the thickness of the screed, or penoplex plates must be laid.
They need to be placed along all walls and partitions, including along interior ones, since they perform two functions - they isolate the screed from the cold outer walls of the building and are dampers that compensate for changes in the size of the screed due to heating.
A heating cable with a sensor from a floor heating system can be cast into a screed, you can get additional view heating. Usually it is called that - warm floor. The cable must be installed using special fasteners before concreting begins. The wires feeding the cable and connecting wires of the sensor must be brought out in advance to the installation site of the thermal controller - the heating system control panel. Periodic activation of heating will ensure comfortable temperature throughout the entire room.
For comfortable living conditions, a person needs optimal temperature living space. Insulation is becoming an integral part of construction work in a private house. Only those people who have a high-quality foundation or basement floor under their house are less likely to encounter the problem of a cold floor. In other cases, it is necessary to insulate the floor in a private house with your own hands.
Most floor insulation technologies will not take much time, and given the opportunity to do the work yourself, floor insulation in a wooden house allows you to save not only on construction work, but also on heating costs.
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Materials for floor insulation
To insulate the floor in a private house you can use:
- expanded clay;
- Styrofoam;
- mineral wool;
- ecowool;
- penoplex;
- isolon;
- penofol;
- wood concrete
We will tell you about the most popular and budget options.
Expanded clay
The most common insulation. This substance is sold in the form of granules and has a porous structure. Thanks to this it is very light. The main component for the manufacture of expanded clay is clay, and the material does not come into contact with water and does not change its properties. During the manufacturing process, the material becomes resistant to temperature changes. Its significant advantage is fire safety, which significantly expands its range of uses.
Expanded clay has proven itself in use as a strong and durable thermal insulation element. In addition, it has no impurities and is considered environmentally friendly pure material. It is easy to install - you just need to apply the material in a layer. This advantage easily turns into a disadvantage: if the layer is less than 10 centimeters, then the insulation will not work.
Styrofoam
This option is considered less expensive. Polystyrene foam is often used as insulation for both floor and wall surfaces. The material has a high coefficient of heat and sound insulation. Depending on the density, its functional ability changes. As it grows, so does its impact resistance. Polystyrene foam will serve as insulation for decades.
Among the disadvantages of polystyrene foam is toxicity; when burned, it emits a large amount of corrosive gases, and instability to the aquatic environment. At high humidity the material will quickly become saturated with water and lose its heat-saving properties.
Mineral wool
Considering the shortcomings of the above materials, technologists invented the material highest quality. It's called mineral wool. It is an excellent insulator and has all the advantages of the previous options. The use of mineral wool is permissible both on walls and on ceilings and floors. Cotton wool is commercially available in the form of slabs and rolls. According to manufacturers, the material can not lose its properties for 30 years.
The advantages include good thermal conductivity and sound insulation. Cotton wool has good fire resistance and does not allow a fire source to spread quickly, which is why it is often used in wooden houses.
Important: the only drawback This material appears during the production process. Since mineral wool is made using wooden base, it becomes susceptible to moisture, which entails heat loss.
The process of insulating a house with mineral wool requires preparation. The wool must be thoroughly waterproofed using a Barrier. It can be purchased in roll form. Cotton wool is susceptible to the influence of rodents, so it must be additionally protected.
Ecowool
As the name implies, the material is environmentally friendly. This is the next generation of mineral wool. Its composition includes up to 75% cellulose fibers, due to which the material has increased heat resistance. Like the previous option, cotton wool can get wet, but its structure allows it to quickly remove water, and after complete drying, all properties are restored, thanks to which ecowool retains precious heat even better.
In stores, such cotton wool can be found in two variations: ready-made blocks and solution. Physical properties the second allows for better insulation hard to reach places: the material fills the entire space and seeps well into the cracks.
Important: the solution is used less frequently due to its price: it is very high.
Penoplex
Today the most popular insulation. The manufacturing process is similar to the production of polystyrene foam. At the initial stage, technologists mix the components and beat them. But ultimately, the material is compressed under heavy load, and its “balls” do not grow. The result is a durable material of a new generation.
It incorporates the advantages of all previous options. Even a child can handle the installation, and the material will not allow heat to pass through for several decades. In our area, penoplex has gained popularity due to its resistance to frost, which makes it possible to use it not only in indoors, but also on the street. Penoplex is able to retain heat in the house, even when its thickness does not exceed five centimeters, which cannot be achieved with masonry. At the same time, it does not absorb moisture at all.
However, penoplex has a number of disadvantages. Firstly, it is capable of not only burning, but also melting, which does not allow it to be used, for example, near a village stove. Secondly, it is quite expensive.
Izolon
Its uses are very diverse. Experienced builders use it both initial stages construction, and at the time finishing works. No toxic materials are used in the production process, making izolon environmentally friendly. Moisture does not seep into such material, and therefore mold is eliminated. Izolon has fire-resistant properties. And the main advantage is its small thickness, which allows the material to be used almost under finishing. Builders compare the thermal permeability of a 20-mm layer of isolon with a whole brick wall.
Penofol
Serves as a substitute for isolon and is presented in the form of puff pastry. Each layer performs a specific function, which makes the material warmer with a smaller thickness. Each sheet contains:
- Foil layer for protection from moisture and steam;
- Foamed polyethylene as insulation.
Builders really liked the material due to its functionality. There are several types of penofol on the market, which significantly expands the range of uses. Depending on the purpose, its thickness and price vary. There is a special penofol that has an adhesive side. It is very easy to install a thermal insulation layer from it.
Arbolit
To create a durable and warm floor surface It is permissible to use wood concrete. This material is made from concrete and sawdust. It perfectly suppresses noise and is capable of high-quality thermal insulation of the room. Although it contains concrete, its weight is light. The material is susceptible to processing and subsequent work. It is completely non-flammable, but can become saturated with moisture, which significantly impairs its thermal insulation properties.
Important: in order to insulate the floor with wood concrete, it is necessary to vapor barrier all surfaces.
House insulation work
Let's consider the simplest insulation using polystyrene foam. For installation you will need:
- Styrofoam;
- vapor barrier;
- cement;
- sand;
- reinforcing mesh.
If the house does not have a subfloor, you should dig the earth crust to a depth of 15 centimeters or make a drainage embankment to the same height. Then the surface is leveled and a steam and hydrobarrier is laid. Sometimes you can limit yourself to simple film.
The next stage is rough finishing of the floor.
Important: the cement layer must be at least four centimeters.
When laying foam boards, they must be carefully pressed: this will avoid cracks. After this, work stops for two days. This will allow the solution to bond.
After drying, the floor is finished. To ensure the floor is level, beacons are installed and a level is used.
When using expanded clay, the procedure is the same. However, do not forget about the thermal conductivity of expanded clay, so it is necessary to pour it in a high layer - from ten centimeters. After pouring the finishing layer, it is advisable to leave the room for the next week until the solution dries completely.
Expanded clay is successfully used for insulating houses on logs. In this case, you only need to fill in the material, and you can begin to close the floor.
Insulation of a floor installed on joists includes several stages:
- Removing the floor (if necessary);
- Removing the top layer or digging a trench;
- Laying waterproofing;
- Laying thermal insulation;
- Another layer of waterproofing;
- Installation of flooring.
The steps may vary depending on the material selected. The log method is a simpler and less labor-intensive option. The only question is the foundation of the house, or rather, its availability.
Often used as a subfloor reinforced concrete slabs. In this case the best option mineral wool or its equivalent is used for insulation. And to give strength to the material, it is advisable to use concrete screed. The cotton wool will need to be closed first mounting tape or film.
