Each of us, at least once in our lives, has faced the problem of choosing and searching for a product with a set of desired characteristics. Remember how in the famous movie:
- Do you have exactly the same one, but with mother-of-pearl buttons?
- Will seek!
The same thing usually happens with the choice of parquet boards. Of course, if you have a lot of money and a complete lack of desire to spend time thinking through the design of your house (cottage, apartment), then you can turn to the services of a designer. In this case, you will make your life and your wallet much easier, but are you sure that the result will meet your expectations?
This article was written for other categories of people:
- For those who are not ready to spend money on the services of an interior designer (due to lack of “extra” money or due to mistrust based on past experience);
- For those who have taste and enjoy direct participation in the process of creating the interior of their hearth;
- For those who are so picky and demanding that they can only be satisfied with the decision that they made on their own and only with the work that they did with their own hands.
Today you can find on sale parquet boards made from various breeds wood, including species exotic for our country. Many manufacturers offer parquet boards that already have protective covering, applied in a factory, and has a certain tinting (the wood is given a certain color that differs from its natural color). On the one hand, this is very convenient, because having bought a board of the type and color you are interested in, all you have to do is lay it and the floor is ready. But on the other hand, in most cases, you will not be able to find “exactly the same, but with mother-of-pearl buttons.” Each manufacturer has in its assortment a certain number of colors and a certain number of species; traditional varnish is used as a protective coating. As soon as you want to buy a board of a certain type and a certain color (different from the set of “standard” colors), you will encounter a problem. If you decide to use not varnish, but, for example, oil and wax, as a protective coating, you will encounter a problem. Is there really no way out? Eat. There is only one way out - purchasing a parquet board of the type you have chosen, without coating.
Many people come to us and more than half of them ask the question about what options exist for protective coating of parquet boards. What options are there for laying the boards? What are the options for coloring the board?
What has long been forgotten in our country, in Western Europe is thriving. Remember DIY stores? In English it sounds like Do it yourself and it has become fashionable. The phrase has morphed into the acronym DIY (pronounced "DeeYYYY") and is promoted in the Western world as a way to push the envelope. standard solutions, let your imagination fly and even save money. Today, in our country, more and more people are choosing parquet and solid wood flooring. floorboard without cover. By purchasing a high-quality uncoated parquet board, you get a floor with a finely sanded surface, suitable for any size room and does not require sanding or initial sanding. After installation, the floor can be coated with oil or varnish according to wishes, with the possibility of pre-tinting the floor in desired color or tone.
So, what is a protective coating for hardwood floors and what are your options?
The protective coating of a parquet board is a coating that can protect the board from moisture and contamination. The traditional protective coating is varnish, but there is another, less advertised, but widely used option - oil, wax, oil + wax.
Varnish, oil, wax? Advantages, disadvantages, features.
PARQUET VARNISH, GENERAL INFORMATION
Parquet varnish– is the most durable protective coating. Its strength will depend on the chosen brand of varnish and its type. Parquet varnishes come in water based(this does not mean that after application it can be washed off with water), alkyd based, acrylic base and nitro varnishes. Nitrovarnishes dry almost instantly; the drying time for water-based, acrylic and alkyd-based parquet varnishes is longer. Recently, specially designed “deck” varnishes or varnishes for yachts have become popular. Distinctive feature deck varnishes are their increased strength (resistance to wear, abrasion) and increased resistance to moisture.
Today, water-based parquet varnishes are produced using two binder bases: polyurethane and/or acrylate.
Water-based parquet varnishes based on pure polyurethane have good wear resistance. But to chemical influences They are not stable enough, and they also do not tolerate alcohol well. If vodka is spilled on such a floor, an irremovable stain may remain on the varnish film.
Water-based varnishes based on acrylic resin dry faster and are quite difficult to scratch (which is important if there is a dog in the house). True, it still wears out faster than polyurethane varnish. This, you understand, is bad, because the main function of varnish is to protect the parquet. But acrylic-based varnishes are cheaper in price.
New hybrid varnishes containing polyurethane and acrylic are improved polyurethane varnishes based on fatty acids. Such varnishes have exceptional wear resistance, which is very important, as you probably already understand. They are also resistant to chemical influences. When this varnish is applied to wood, especially oak, the wood is slightly “scorched.”
Acetate nitro varnishes are now falling out of use due to the content of a large amount of aggressive volatile substances in them, which imposes increased requirements for compliance with safety measures when applying these varnishes.
PARQUET VARNISHES, APPLICATION
Usually the varnish is not applied directly to the board. First, the board is coated with primer varnish. The primer must be compatible with the varnish - have the same base (water-based, acrylic, alkyd or nitro) as the varnish. If you neglect this rule and apply, for example, nitro varnish over a primer that has alkyd base, you may experience collapse. It looks about the same as curdled milk (the primer may peel off and curl into flakes). When choosing a primer and finishing parquet varnish, carefully read the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer. Using primer and topcoat from the same manufacturer will save you from unpleasant surprises.
Application methods may vary among different manufacturers, but in general they are common:
- A primer (primer varnish) is applied to a sanded, dry, dust-free board. After hardening, the surface is sanded. Sanding is necessary because the first layer, be it primer varnish or ordinary parquet varnish, raises the pile on the wood;
- Next, parquet varnish is applied in several layers with intermediate drying of the layers. If necessary, repeated intermediate grinding is carried out. The recommended number of layers of parquet varnish is 2-3. For an area with high load(there are more than 6 people living and there are animals) it is recommended to apply 4 layers. Can also be applied large quantity layers, but it must be taken into account that this will significantly increase the time required to complete the work (taking into account the need for intermediate drying of each layer).
PARQUET VARNISHES, DISADVANTAGES
Having undoubted advantages, parquet varnishes, however, are not without disadvantages, which include the following:
- the complexity and duration of the application procedure on a wooden floor;
- the need to attach felt pads to furniture legs and use special parquet rollers to armchairs and sofas in order to protect the parquet varnish from scratches;
- fear of alcohol-containing liquids, various household chemicals(depending on the type of parquet varnish);
- fear of freezing and overheating, as a result of which the varnish may irreversibly turn white or even peel off (depending on the type of parquet varnish chosen);
- parquet varnish is susceptible to scratches and should not be walked on in shoes with metal heels;
- in case of damage varnish coating(education deep scratches, chips, appearance of white spots) carry out local repair often impossible. In this case, it becomes necessary to completely sand the parquet and then apply a new varnish coating.
PARQUET OIL and WAX
PARQUET OIL and WAX, GENERAL INFORMATION
An oiled parquet floor has much more natural look than a varnished parquet floor. The oil saturates the wood, beautifully emphasizing its texture. Oil and wax compositions can be applied to the surface of a parquet board without special equipment. The application process is quite simple and fast, which in itself is a significant advantage of this type of protective coating. There are several types of oil and wax based finishes for wood floors:
- covering a wooden floor with oil;
- coating a wooden floor with wax;
- coating a wooden floor with an oil-wax composition;
PARQUET OIL, APPLICATION
In this case, oil is applied to the already finished coating (laid parquet floor or floorboard). It is recommended to apply the oil... with a spatula! Don't be confused, oil is usually a viscous but very fluid liquid and has the consistency of a motor or sunflower oil. Application with a spatula is recommended. Essentially, you simply pour some oil onto the floor and spread it out in a thin layer using a spatula. You can use cotton fabric. The oil is applied in a thin layer. After about 20 minutes, apply the second layer. No need to allow puddles to form. Excess oil is removed with a cotton cloth. The oil is then allowed to soak into the wood and harden for approximately 10 hours, but it is recommended that the floor be left unstressed for at least 24 hours. Oil is always applied in at least two layers. The oil saturates the pores of the wood, preventing water and dirt from entering them and, in addition, forms a protective layer on the surface of the floor. An oiled finish on a wooden floor is protective and has its own advantages and disadvantages. The oil can be either transparent or with the addition of dyes (two in one - impregnating protection of the floor and simultaneous tinting it in the desired color or shade). Oiled wood floors look very natural but will generally be matte (not glossy). Need gloss? No problem - read below!
PARQUET WAX, APPLICATION
Wax is applied to a wooden floor either as a stand-alone coating or as an additional coating on top of oil and enhances the protective properties of the resulting coating. In addition, wax is used to give the floorboard a glossy shine. Typically, wax is a non-flowing substance that resembles candied honey in color and consistency. The wax is applied to the surface of the parquet board in a thin layer, after which it must be allowed to dry and you can begin polishing. Polishing can be done with a floor polisher, polishing machine, manually using a cotton cloth or using grinder with a polishing attachment attached to it.
Hybrid oil-wax formulations
There are hybrid oil-wax compositions designed to protect wooden floors, which, like oil, impregnate the wood and, in addition, form a thin, fairly hard, slightly glossy film on the surface that protects the board from mechanical stress. Such compositions, in essence, are “two in one”.
ADVANTAGES of oil and wax based coatings:
- Simplicity and speed of application;
- Absolutely environmentally friendly and harmless;
- Simplicity of repair - allows local repair in case of mechanical damage to the wood simply by re-impregnating the damaged area with oil and applying wax (if it was used before) without sanding the entire floor. Repair time no more than 1 hour;
- Ease of updating the coating (giving the floor its original cleanliness and shine) by using care products from the same manufacturer whose wax and oil were used. The essence of the action of these products is to dissolve and wash away the top layer of wax, which accumulates dust in microcracks - along with this dust. After this, the floor can be waxed again and it will look like new;
- Possibility of using not only colorless, transparent oil, but also oil with added dyes a certain color. In this case, by impregnating the board with such an oily composition, you not only protect it, but also at the same time paint it in the desired tone or color;
- It is worth noting that for artificially aged boards, it is recommended to use a protective coating exclusively based on oil and wax, since this is the most natural combination for the old style. Before finishing the surface of an aged board, it is tinted in one of many ways to give the effect of darkening over time or, for example, the effect of staining oak.
PARQUET OIL, DISADVANTAGES
The disadvantages of oil- and wax-based parquet flooring include the need to refresh it 1-3 times a year (depending on the type of materials chosen and the characteristics of the floor in a particular case). Compared to regular varnish, oil-based compositions are more labor-intensive to maintain, but over time they only become more beautiful.
- Bona (Sweden) www.bona.com
- Loba (Germany) www.loba.de
- Belinka (Slovenia) www.belinka.si
Forget about fancy finishing. Use these four ways to identify various features red oak.
Beautiful finishing does not always require sophisticated technology. Sometimes you can give a product the desired look with just a couple of simple steps. To demonstrate the capabilities of four simple options finishes, we tested them on small oak tables, taking into account the following basic rules for applying the finish.
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1 Perfect simplicity
We offer very simple finishing: polyurethane coating according to drying oil. This combination gives the wood grain a refined expressiveness and natural look, and also protects the surface from moisture and abrasion. In addition, these coatings can be easily purchased and are easy to work with.First, coat the surface generously with drying oil. Reapply it to areas where it has been absorbed into the wood, and then wipe the surface dry. When drying, drying oil may protrude to the surface, forming hard clumps. Wipe off these formations every hour until they stop appearing. A product coated with drying oil should dry for four to seven days.
- Top coating. Combine two parts polyurethane with one part white spirit and mix. With some skill, you can increase the polyurethane content to three parts to one part white spirit to produce a thicker varnish film with each application.
- Coating. Apply the coating using a clean cloth swab. Use the same cloth to remove stains before they dry.
- Number of layers. Apply at least three coats.
Result evaluationUnlike brush-on finishes of pure or lightly diluted polyurethane, this technology avoids the problems associated with dust adhesion and brush marks.
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2 golden shades in one go
Get acquainted with a new way of finishing small items or parts of large items. The clear pearl varnish finish gives the finish a refined golden hue and reduces the contrast between the pore grain and the surrounding smooth oak wood.Coatings and methods of their application
- Surface preparation. Sand the wooden surface to be prepared with sandpaper up to 180 grit. Wipe the surface with white spirit to reveal scratches, which will be emphasized by stain and pearlescent effect.
- Staining/painting. And without dye you can get any shade.
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Result evaluationWhen pearl varnish, like other water-based film coatings, dries quickly, brush marks may remain on the surface.
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3 Rich and dark, but not complex
If you want to receive beautiful product black, cover it first with water-soluble dye under ebony, then apply a dark oil-based stain. Unlike regular black paint, this coating does not hide the grain of oak wood, highlighting matte veining against the surrounding smooth background.Coatings and methods of their application
To neokrThe painted areas did not stand out too much; painting and staining should be done before assembly.
- Surface preparation. Sand the wood surface with 150 grit sandpaper, wipe with a damp cloth to lift the lint, and remove it by sanding again. For a strong bond, protect all joint surfaces with masking tape before applying finish.
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Result evaluationDifferent concentrations of dye and type of stain change the color of the finished coating from black to chocolate. Best result paint and stain give the same saturation.
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4 Low odor - choice for finishing during interior work
In winter, a home workshop provides relief from the cold, but only until the finish needs to be applied. You have a choice: wait warm weather, apply coatings based on organic solvents outdoors or breathe in fumes that are not at all harmless. However, there is another option: water-based stains and film coatings.Coatings and methods of their application
To finish the table we used the following materials.|
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Result evaluationWhen treating products with water-based stains, problems sometimes arise. If you leave it on just a few seconds longer than it should, it will dry out immediately, leaving behind stains. Dry air only makes the problem worse.
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Let's consider which paint material choose for painting oak boards. Today there are Various types LMB. The first category is opaque paints and varnishes, that is, enamels and paints. They are distinguished into polyurethane, alkyd and acrylic. They are practically non-toxic and dry out in a short period of time. In addition, compared with oil paints, which will begin to crack after a couple of minutes, they are durable.
Alkyd types of paints are mainly used for processing wood, which will later be used for processing interior design. But acrylic paints are used for wood, which will later be used to decorate the outside of the house. Another variety acrylic paint- it is water-dispersed. It is often used for both interior and exterior work. It is durable.
Another category is transparent paints and varnishes, which contain a component that protects against UV rays. These are all kinds of impregnations, varnishes and stains. It all depends on the area of application of the boards. If the boards will be used to make a fence at the dacha, then varnish will do. There are clear and tinted varnishes. But craftsmen recommend applying a stain after a colorless layer of varnish, which gives the wood the required shade.
Before processing, oak boards need to be prepared. If the boards have been previously painted, then the previous layer of paint must be removed with special removers or the surface must be sanded. Smooth the sharp edges of the boards with abrasive paper. Areas where wood adjoins painted and unpainted surfaces are thoroughly cleaned and sanded.
We apply a new layer of coating when it adheres well and does not begin to peel off. In addition, it is imperative to find out exactly what product the wood was treated with before, since there are compounds that are incompatible. That is, when working, the new paint may apply unevenly, and bubbles may appear.
After it was deleted old paint We clean the boards from accumulated dust and dirt. Then a primer is applied and the surface is allowed to dry at the end.
Stages of painting oak boards
Let's look at several ways to paint oak boards, depending on the material chosen.
If you want to apply to oak boards oil paints or varnishes, then for painting we use a brush with soft bristles. Apply the mixture with smooth movements. Apply this material in a couple of layers, and wait until any of the applied layers dries. Varnishes containing an alcohol base should not be used for outdoor use.
Now let's look at how to work with impregnations. You can use any tools to apply such mixtures. For example, brushes with rollers. After painting wooden surfaces, we protect them from external influences.
Wood impregnation – necessary operation, extending their service life. It must be carried out even if oak and other species are processed appropriately for sale (for example, in terms of relative humidity). Reason – unfavourable conditions operation of the floorboard: high operating loads, and frequently changing surface moisture of the wood.
Possible methods of surface impregnation of wood
At home, oak boards can be impregnated:
- special parquet varnishes;
- compositions based on oil-wax mixtures;
- refreshing blends that restore shine wooden covering.
The last option relates more to maintaining appearance already processed oak board, so this impregnation is not deep. Rather, this technology is reminiscent of cleaning a wooden floor, and therefore can be done once a week, or even more often.
Surface wood fresheners - polishes - also have a similar effect. High-quality polishes can temporarily restore the original color of wood and emphasize its texture.
Such technologies are used a month or two after the final installation of the parquet board.
Unlike the above methods, impregnation is carried out at the stage of laying the coating or immediately after that. It assumes:
Impregnation using parquet varnishes
All compounds in this group, without exception, are extremely toxic, which must be taken into account when choosing this method of impregnating wood. Treatment should be carried out in well-ventilated areas, at air temperatures up to 25°C (at more high temperatures varnishes begin to evaporate even more intensely), as well as with the use individual funds protection: goggles and gauze bandage (or respirator).
The toxicity of board impregnation varnishes depends on the type of solvent. Varnishes are made on a water basis and on the basis of synthetic solvents. Water-based varnishes are much less toxic, although they dry somewhat slower. However, in in this case- this is not a disadvantage, but rather an advantage of the composition: quick-drying impregnating varnishes are very demanding on the quality of their application, and with insufficient experience of the performer, they leave behind clearly defined streaks. They can only be eliminated by re-varnishing the wood, and this leads to increased consumption of varnish and prolongation of work.
A clear advantage of parquet varnishes is their durability. Oak treated with such compounds will subsequently require only cosmetic maintenance of cleanliness and texture, which can be achieved by applying polish of the required color to the surface of the floorboard. Sometimes stains are successfully used to maintain the external texture of oak coverings.
Impregnation using oil-wax compounds
This impregnation technology is much “cleaner” from an environmental point of view, since it uses non-toxic components of natural origin.
Oil-wax mixtures are used not only for impregnation, but also for restoration of damaged areas of the board. Advantages this method impregnations:
- Giving the coating antistatic characteristics. Due to treatment with oil compounds, the risk of accumulation of static electricity on the surface of oak parquet boards is reduced. When treated with varnishes, an antistatic effect does not occur, which is explained by the polarization of the organic solvent during its application to the surface of the wood.
- The oil-wax surface is warmer to the touch, which is explained by the increased heat capacity of the impregnation components. Therefore, the treated rooms will be warmer in winter.
- The relatively low volatility of the oil allows it to penetrate into the internal structure of the oak board to a considerable depth. As a result, wood porosity decreases and density increases.
- The presence of wax gives the impregnating composition the ability to cover minor surface defects in wood that can arise, for example, from the claws of pets.
- Wax itself is a water-repellent composition, so the board will not suffer from excess moisture, for example, when washing floors.
- Wax-oil impregnations can be used to treat any room in the house. Most often they process boards made of oak, ash, and larch.
Technology of work execution
Impregnation of wood with parquet varnish is carried out in two layers. The subsequent one is superimposed in a direction perpendicular to the previous one. Due to the rapid setting of the composition, it is recommended to carry out the treatment with a hard, wide brush.
There are much more subtleties in applying an impregnating composition based on oil-wax components. The difficulty stems from the fact that the working mixture for impregnation contains several dissimilar components.
This includes the actual oil, wax, resinous substances that give the finished surface shine and reduce its porosity, as well as a very small amount of chemical stabilizers that provide the impregnation with resistance to changing conditions of temperature and relative humidity.
The quality of processing is determined by the characteristics of the oil. It is divided into three types:
- High density, with a high percentage of resins. Impregnation of boards using this oil is considered the most durable.
- Regular density, to which various dyes are often added - from light brown to lemon yellow. This makes it easier to select an impregnating composition to match the texture and color of the board (for oak, dark-colored compositions are used).
- Whitening oils, with the help of which the color of the finishing surface becomes lighter. More often they are used to process light wood species (linden, pine, maple), but sometimes bleaching oak increases the expressiveness of the floorboard.
Before impregnation, the necessary preparatory work: oak board is sanded to seal minor defects its surface putty is performed. Then the impregnation itself is carried out in several layers with a break for drying. It can be produced cold or hot.
Impregnation with oil-wax mixtures also has a number of limitations:
- As a result of the treatment, the coefficient of friction between the surfaces of shoes and the floor is reduced, so it is easier to slip on such a board.
- If subsequent impregnation with varnish is desired, the entire coating will have to be removed.
- The method is not suitable if the premises are equipped with a “warm floor” system.
The choice of the optimal method for processing boards, including those made from oak, depends on the conditions of its use and the desired visual effect from the finished coating.
