Pouring the floor in an apartment - all about the materials and technology for creating a perfectly flat floor. How to fill floors yourself The cheaper to fill a floor

Outdated floor leveling schemes required a lot of time and effort. It is with the aim of minimizing such costs and facilitating the filling of the surface that self-leveling floors were invented. Today on sale there is an abundance of different compositions for creating a perfectly flat, durable, monolithic floor surface in as soon as possible. At the same time, the tightness of the coating due to the absence of seams is quite high. You can do the work of pouring a self-leveling floor in an apartment yourself. If you decide to make just this version of the subfloor, then in our article you will find useful information about the filling methods, what materials will be needed, and their cost. To make it easier for you to correctly complete the work of making a subfloor yourself, we offer detailed video instructions.

Features of self-leveling floor

In numerous photos on the Internet you can see how beautiful self-leveling floors look. However, it was a mistake to classify plastic levelers with cement as self-leveling mixtures for making rough screeds. The thickness of the leveling layer using such compositions can be in the range of 1-30 cm. However, no one dares to do the indicated 30 cm due to the high cost of the mixture.

So why is a self-leveling subfloor better than a traditional base made of concrete along the beacons? Despite the fact that the base and manufacturers of these compositions may be the same, in terms of purpose and installation methods it is predominantly various products. Rough self-leveling mixtures differ from concrete floors in their plasticity and spreadability. Moreover, the levelers mentioned above are also applied to the floor along the beacons. While self-leveling floors themselves spread and level under the influence of gravity.

In principle, the technology for applying self-leveling floors involves the use of a leveling mass, which is the finishing compositions used for the final leveling of the floor, so they should be classified as self-leveling floors. The thickness of such a layer can be 2-25 mm. These mixtures should not be used for rough leveling of substrates with significant unevenness (if you find out how much such a composition costs, you will understand why it is not used for rough leveling). Since such a mixture contains plasticizers, and the composition itself is a liquid consistency, it spontaneously forms a perfectly smooth surface without the use of rules and beacons.

The advantages of a rough self-leveling floor include the following:

The work can be done much faster and with less labor, and the result will be much better.
You can make such a floor in an apartment with your own hands in a short time.
This floor is easy to maintain.
The surface is hygienic due to the absence of seams where bacteria like to multiply.
High compressive strength, durability, reliability and wear resistance.

Functions of self-leveling subfloor

Plastic levelers are used to fill the base subfloor. This base can be used for finishing polymer coating and other types of floor facing products. In principle, if you decide to lay linoleum or laminate, then it is not necessary to make a self-leveling subfloor. In this case, you can use a traditional cement-sand screed. But it is better to use a rough self-leveling floor under the finishing polymer coating. Although the price of such a base is higher, these materials work much better in pairs and are highly compatible. In addition, the polymerization of the rough filling composition takes place 4 times faster than the hardening of a traditional cement-sand screed.

Outdated levelers have a thicker consistency, so they cannot spread on their own under the influence of gravity. Before applying such a leveler, beacons must be installed in the apartment.

The technology for applying mixtures for automatic filling does not imply the use of beacons. The thing is that such mixtures lose their plasticity and begin to harden after 15-20 minutes. after pouring, so level them traditional way It won't work with beacons.

In this case, to control the thickness of the floor and the height of the filling layer, it is correct to use tripod beacons. After completing the work of pouring the floors, these tripods are simply removed, and the holes from them are themselves tightened with mortar.

Since the thermal insulation qualities of traditional subfloors and self-leveling floors do not differ, the same materials are used to increase the thermal insulation of the surface. For example, such a floor can be insulated with polystyrene foam or by organizing a heated system.

Attention: when making heated floors, the leveler is poured in layers in two stages.

Self-leveling floors can be used for the following purposes:

Leveling the surface for laying any type of floor covering. Self-levelling composition allows you to eliminate minor unevenness concrete base, cement-sand screed, floors insulated with foam plastic, and other bases.
Rough self-leveling floors will be needed to install a decorative polymer self-leveling floor. These are mixtures that may already be colored by the manufacturer or painted after pouring. Such decorative floors can have a 3D effect (in the photo online you can see how beautiful and unusual such surfaces look in an apartment). It’s just quite difficult to make such a finishing floor with your own hands.

Composition: why do you need to know?

If you are doing the work of installing a rough self-leveling floor with your own hands, you should know the composition of the leveler, which usually includes the following components:

the binder can be cement or gypsum, as well as a combination of these substances with the addition of polymer additives;
sand or limestone chips act as fillers (the size of the filler fraction cannot exceed 0.5 mm in self-leveling compositions);
modifiers are components that are added to the mixture to increase plasticity, spreadability and improve adhesion to the base.

It is important to know: in foreign mixtures special polymers are used as binders. This helps to increase technical characteristics mixtures, but at the same time the price also increases. If you want to know how much such a composition costs, then its cost is 1.5-2 times higher than prices for domestic products, and it costs $2.5-2.7 per bag weighing 25 kg.

If you are going to do the pouring work yourself, then when choosing a mixture you should pay attention not only to how much it costs, but also to its composition. This determines which room in the apartment you are going to install the floor in:

Rough self-leveling floors based on cement binder are suitable for pouring in areas with high level humidity (in the bathroom, kitchen, toilet, shower, etc.).
Mixtures based on gypsum binder are laid in living rooms.

Device methods

You can make a self-leveling subfloor in an apartment with your own hands in several ways:

Thin-layer self-leveling floor. The thickness of such a coating cannot exceed 0.5 mm. Before performing filling work, the base is treated with coarse emery to improve adhesion. After this, the surface is primed and the screed is poured.
Rough self-leveling floor on the separating layer. This floor is made according to wooden bases or on floors with foam insulation. As a separating layer between wooden surface, foam plastic and self-leveling flooring, oiled paper or waterproofing impregnation is used.
The floating floor is installed on a concrete base or cement-sand screed. In this case, such a base will draw moisture from the subfloor, causing the formation of sinkholes and unwanted defects. To do this, a polyethylene film is placed on the base. There is a slight overlap of adjacent strips of material. Also in this case, a damper tape must be used, which is laid along the bottom of the walls around the perimeter of the room. This will protect the floor from deformation and increase its sound insulation.

Sequence of installation of a rough self-leveling floor

Self-leveling flooring can only be done in a draft-free room. Also, do not ventilate the room while the work is being done. The air temperature in the room should be between 5-20°C, humidity around 60%.

The work is carried out in this order:

After thorough preparation of the base, prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging. Since the composition hardens very quickly, it is better to work with an assistant.
Now the entrance to the room where the work will be carried out should be fenced off near the floor with a lath or board. They do the same thing if they want to fill the floor in a large room - they divide the surface into separate squares for work (it all depends on how much work you can do in a day).
Pour the prepared composition in strips onto the floor, starting from the wall opposite the entrance to the room.
Without taking breaks between pours, pour out the next portion of the solution and level it with a spatula. We carry out the work in this way until the entire floor surface in the room is covered with the composition.
To remove air bubbles from the screed, treat the surface with a needle roller. To move freely around the room, we wear shoes with spikes on the soles.
To ripen the screed, cover the surface with plastic film and wait for the time specified in the instructions.

If you want to know how much it costs for hired craftsmen to fill a floor, then its cost is in the range of $4-10, provided that the layer height is no more than 5 cm.

Pouring a floor is a very responsible and labor-intensive process, on which the entire final result depends.. Since modern floor coverings, such as laminate, parquet board, it is necessary to lay it on a perfectly flat floor surface, then this process is inevitable.

This especially applies to old apartments. Therefore, before pouring the floor yourself, it is advisable to consult with specialists.

When to fill the floor:

Leveling the floor surface with a screed is done to simplify the laying of subsequent floor coverings. If the floor is level, the laminate or parquet will lie perfectly, which will create a beautiful appearance and the interior of the entire room.
You can also level the floor if it is necessary to insulate it. electrical or water structures.
If necessary, replace old concrete bases, in which cracks, holes and irregularities could appear over time, help will come a new screed that will last a long time.
Most often, in rooms such as a garage or loggia, the floor may crack, where it is also advisable to update it with a new screed.

How is the floor prepared for screeding?

Before pouring the floor, it must be properly prepared.

This is done as follows:

First of all, you should get rid of old worn-out flooring.;
Next, you need to remove all the baseboards;
Remove all doors;
Be sure to clean the floor surface from glue, old concrete chips and other debris. This is done using a brush or a special grinder.
All dust should be removed from the floor. A regular home vacuum cleaner can help with this.
Next, degrease the entire floor surface. simple soap solution.
It is advisable to slightly moisten the floor surface. This is necessary for strong adhesion of the screed between the layers.
If there are any cracks or holes on the floor surface, they should be covered with putty. It must contain glue or resin.
When covering cracks with putty, it is not recommended to ventilate room.
One of the most important stages in preparing the floor for screed is priming the entire surface. A thin layer of primer is applied to the floor, thereby ensuring a strong and quick setting of the subsequent layers of screed. In this case, the primer can be either universal or for special surfaces. Can be applied either with a brush or with a roller.
The primer must be dry before proceeding further. This will take up to three hours.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is carried out in the following cases:

If there are large holes and cracks in the corners of the floor;
In places sewer pipes and other communications;

Depending on the main constituent component waterproofing materials are divided into:

Bitumen;
Polymer;
Polymer-bitumen;
Mineral.

In addition to these types of waterproofing, there are:

Polyethylene or film. This type of waterproofing is the most popular among builders, as it is not only distinguished by its excellent waterproof material, but also has heat insulating qualities.
Mastic is a waterproofing material which contains adhesive elements such as resin, polymers or liquid rubber. Due to its properties, mastic perfectly retains water and does not allow it to penetrate deep into the floor.
Liquid formulations. The surface is coated with a special liquid composition, which gets into the smallest cracks and crevices, creating excellent waterproofing.
Dry mixes. Also often used for waterproofing floors. The powder should be diluted with the required amount of water, and then immediately applied to the floor surface.

Definition of horizontal level

Important! For correct definition horizontal level, you need to select the desired level: construction, laser or water. By selecting the right tool, the level of the concrete screed is determined.

In this case, marks should be made on the wall that will help when installing beacons. Beacons are usually used in the form of slats made of metal or wood, which are installed sideways, that is, edgewise.

The horizontal level is determined as follows:

First you should measure one meter along the surface of the wall from the doorway. A mark is placed at this location.
A parallel is drawn from the mark along the entire perimeter of the room. The level will help here.
The second parallel runs down from the first. Also one meter.
If you screw screws into the corners of the room and pull the thread, it will be much easier to navigate.

Pouring the floor with concrete screed

You can prepare the concrete mixture yourself, or you can purchase it at any hardware store . Naturally, the purchased mixture will cost several times more, but when filling small rooms with it, the difference will be small.

The prepared solution must be placed between the prepared slats, leveling it with a special tool - a mop. If this is not available, then a large spatula or grater will do.

It is worth noting! When leveling the surface, you should still make vibrating and shaking movements with your hands so that the mixture gets into all the cracks and there are no bubbles or empty spaces left. If you neglect this rule, cracks or depressions may subsequently appear.

How to pour a floor over expanded clay insulation?

Expanded clay chips began to be used very often when pouring floors.

This popularity is due to several factors:

Expanded clay is very light in weight;
It has excellent thermal insulation properties, which additionally makes the room warm and cozy;
The material has excellent soundproofing.

Pouring a floor with expanded clay can be done in two ways:

On dry expanded clay chips. In this case, it should first be moistened with cement milk: water with cement.
When adding expanded clay to cement composition.

How to fill the floor surface?

The floor is poured in the following way:

The floor in one room should be poured immediately and without interruptions, without stretching out the entire pouring stage. This will ensure a smooth floor surface, without unnecessary bumps and irregularities.
It is better to start filling from the far corner of the room. In this case, using a spatula or mop, the solution is distributed evenly into all corners and crevices.
When pouring, you must use a special roller with needles, which will help avoid all the empty parts of the fill.
The whole process needs to be done quickly enough, since within an hour the cement composition will set and it will be impossible to change anything.
After finishing filling and leveling the floor, all windows should be closed and doors to avoid drafts.

Conclusion

Using the right technology By pouring a concrete screed onto the floor surface, you can provide conditions for a high-quality, smooth and beautiful floor covering, for example, laminate, which will not produce unnecessary squeaks and discomfort. And the owner of the house will be able to be proud of such a successfully completed job.

When conducting overhaul The question: how to fill the floor in an apartment is very relevant. It is important not only to level the base for finishing, but also to carry out the work as efficiently as possible without unnecessary material and time costs.

Let's consider what materials can be used to fill the floor indoors and how to save money.

Carrying out work on your own

Before starting work, dismantle the old covering to the floor level

Having enough free time, you can carry out all the work on arranging the floor yourself. The work begins with cleaning the old surface.

If there is a covering, it must be dismantled to the level of the floor slabs. Not only linoleum or laminate will have to be removed, everything will be removed, including the old screed or fill. This must also be done because pouring a new screed will “eat up” the height of the room by at least 5-10 cm.

Having purchased new apartment for final finishing, make sure the quality of the floor covering. If the screed material is soft and loose (this happens when there is too much sand in the solution), the layer must be removed.

Mix the solution in small portions

Having removed the old covering, we begin to fill the floor in the apartment. To do this, you need to perform the following work sequentially:

Surface primer. A special solution is used deep penetration. It is necessary to treat a surface that is clean from dust and fine dirt. If there are cracks, it is better to fill them. The bottom of the walls also needs to be impregnated with soil solution. After drying, usually 2-3 hours, you can begin laying the thermal insulation.
Insulation. If you don’t install heated floors in your apartment, it’s still worth saving yourself from energy losses. Lay a layer of polystyrene foam, this will reduce heat loss significantly. Laying the slabs begins from the far corner of the room; the direction of laying does not matter. Lay the slabs without fixing, see which layout will result in less waste. Having decided on the cutting, secure the slabs with adhesive foam. The joints between the sheets and the entire perimeter must be glued.
We set up beacons. To do this, display the zero level and, focusing on it, fix it on the piles of cement mortar aluminum profile. To avoid deviations, use a building level. Beacons are placed at a distance less than the length of the rule, by a quarter. The first line is laid out 30 cm from the wall. Don’t try to increase the distance; to be sure of the level, place beacons a little more often. After making sure that the horizon of the beacons is level, we leave the solution under them to harden.
We do the filling. Mix the solution in small portions, in this case it will be as mobile as possible when laying out and the quality of mixing will increase. The surface of the screed is passed with a needle roller to remove possible air bubbles and make it more durable.
The poured floor is covered plastic film and left to harden.

You should not speed up the process by placing beacons on an alabaster or plaster solution. The beacons will harden faster, but pieces of mortar will have to be removed from the screed. As a result, you will spend much more time.

Filling methods

The process of pouring the floor in an apartment with your own hands is labor-intensive. Depending on what goals are set, it can be accomplished in various ways. In the case where there is a good rough screed, it will be enough to simply level upper layer special mixture.

Related article: Carved decorations Your house

Conventionally, there are 3 filling methods:

Thin (up to 0.5 mm) finishing layer. For better adhesion before such pouring rough screed must be treated with abrasive and impregnated with a primer. At the same time, the subfloor must be perfectly level. This type of filling does not require further coating.
Separate layer fill. The thickness of the screed is 2 cm. It can be laid on any type of surface, including plywood. Separating layer made from oiled paper, laying it overlapping or using waterproofing. In this way, the two layers of the floor become independent of each other. This is important when materials differ in physical properties and their responses to humidity and temperature changes vary greatly.
Floating fill. This type of screed is carried out for the purpose of finishing work on the floors in the apartment. The thickness of the layer is at least 2.5 cm. Here, too, a layer of insulation is laid with allowances for the walls of 0.15 m. The perimeter is laid with damper tape. After the screed has dried and the finishing coating has been laid: laminate, parquet, linoleum, visible remains of the insulating material and tape are cut off.

Filling the floor begins from the far wall towards the exit

Carrying out work using any method, pour starting from the far, opposite wall and moving towards the exit. Level the solution using the rule between the wall and the lighthouse. Do not lean on the weight of the beacons; they are used to set the level. Use the rule to move the mixture in a zigzag manner.

Do not leave unleveled mortar on the floor; only after leveling the first batch, mix the second. Strictly observe the proportions of the solution. After finishing the work, remove all tools and close access to the room.

Ties different solutions have different ripening times. The first setting occurs on the 3rd day, final readiness - after 3-4 weeks, depending on the room temperature. To learn how to properly concrete a floor, watch this video:

Related article: Gas heated floors: heating system and gas boiler

It’s easy to check if the filling is ready. Place some crumpled paper napkins on the floor and cover with any utensils. If after 12 hours the napkins do not become wet, then the screed has dried out.

Pouring materials

Strictly observe the proportions of the solution

Having decided how to fill the floor in the apartment, you should choose a solution for the screed. You can buy ready-made dry mixtures or mix the cement mortar yourself.

It is important not only to know how to properly fill the floor in an apartment, but also to understand what kind of solution it will be used for.

The choice of materials is not great:

Material	Advantages	Flaws
Concrete mortar	High wear resistance Resistant to mechanical damage Long service life Not afraid of water Economical Fast ready time	Heavy Requires finishing Difficult to prepare
Cement-sand mixture	High wear resistance Durability Economical	Long drying time Requires finishing
Dry mixes	Easy to prepare Durable Easy to apply	Price Average drying time
Self-leveling floors	Ideal surface Strength Wear resistance	Price Significant readiness period

The instructions on the bags of formula are very clear. Mixing concrete yourself is quite difficult, since the proportions must be strictly observed.

The most economical and affordable option the fill is DSP. You can buy it at a hardware store, or you can prepare it yourself.

Mix M500 grade cement and fine sifted river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

Self-leveling floors

Self-leveling floors can be leveling or finishing

Before you fill the floors in your apartment with your own hands, evaluate your financial capabilities. If the choice falls on mixtures for self-leveling floors, it is worth knowing that they are divided into leveling and finishing.

The mixtures differ in composition and order of installation. When filling the bottom layer with a branded leveler, it is imperative to use the finishing layer of the same construction brand. Moreover, the latter type can be applied to any type of base.

In most cases, you cannot do without a floor screed. It is done in rooms with different purposes, according to various technologies and using all kinds of materials. But regardless of how and what the floor is poured from, wet or by laying a dry structure, its function is to form a flat surface for the subsequent finishing of the coating.

How to properly fill the floor in an apartment. Stages of work execution

According to the technology, floor screeding is done as the next step after completing work on the walls and ceiling, but before wallpapering or painting.

The process of pouring screed can be divided into several stages:

Preparation of the base surface - dismantling the old coating, cleaning it from dirt.
Base primer.
Waterproofing the base.
Thermal insulation (if necessary).
Determining the floor level, placing beacons.
Preparation of the solution.
Filling the screed.
Waiting for the screed to dry and finishing coat floor.

Tools and materials

To install a wet floor screed with your own hands you will need:

container for mixing the solution;
lighthouse slats;
construction or laser level;
metal brush;
scraper;
paint roller and primer brush;
needle roller;
putty knife;
construction mixer or concrete mixer;
primer;
cement, sand or ready-made screed mixture.

Types of screeds

Wet screed

This is the most common way to create a level floor. For arranging a wet screed, cement-sand or concrete mortar, which is distributed over the surface of the base and fills all its unevenness and level differences. This is a self-leveling coating, but it still requires additional measures to create a smooth surface.

It takes a long time for the solution to dry. This is a disadvantage of a wet screed. There is a high risk that it may crack even if it is reinforced. But its main advantages are strength, fire resistance and moisture resistance.

Wet screed can be divided into 4 types, differing in the process of preparing the base and the methods of forming the final layer:

Screed on waterproofing. The waterproofing material is laid, and the coating is poured on top.
Under waterproofing (knitted). A screed is laid on the base, and waterproofing is placed on it.
On thermal insulation. Suitable for installation on a soil base. The first layer of sand is laid, the second is insulation, the third is waterproofing, and the fourth is screed. The insulation can be polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, mineral wool, expanded clay.
Screed with self-leveling coating. This combined option, where the bottom rough layer is made from cement-sand mortar, and the top one is liquid.

Dry screed

Dry screed is in a fast way make the floor surface level, since there is no need to wait for it to dry. You can arrange it regardless of temperature regime. Has good sound insulation properties. A good option bases for laminate, parquet, linoleum.

Consists of several layers. A polyethylene or PVC film is applied to the cleaned surface of the base to provide waterproofing. On her even layer fits bulk material(fine expanded clay or perlite). To level dry bedding, rules specially made for it are used. The next layer is laid gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) in 2 layers, which are glued with PVA glue and secured with self-tapping screws for GVL.

The disadvantages of such a base include its fear of moisture. Therefore, it can only be done in dry rooms.

Semi-dry screed

Is alternative way pouring the floor in the apartment using the wet method. They are similar in technology. Is different limited use water and big amount sand in the composition (sand concrete). It dries faster than wet, but its strength characteristics are reduced.

Self-leveling floors

For this screed, special ready-made self-leveling mixtures of cement, sand and polymer components are used. There are self-leveling floors for which the mixture is made only from polymer components.

During the pouring process, the solution spreads over the surface thin layer, filling all the irregularities and creating smooth surface. The advantage of this coating is that it does not need to be distributed and leveled manually, like a simple wet screed. It is only necessary to remove air bubbles by rolling with a needle roller.

Since this type of screed turns out to be thin, it is advisable to make it on a base with slight irregularities and differences. In most cases, self-leveling flooring is done as a finishing preparation after leveling the base. Therefore, before pouring floors in an apartment in this way, it is recommended to make a rough screed. This will create a combined base.

Preparing the floor for the start of work. Primer and waterproofing of the floor

The primer allows you to make the concrete surface stronger and enhance adhesion to other materials. Concrete contact or any other universal primer is suitable for treating concrete. The porous surface must be primed twice, allowing each layer to dry. For self-leveling floors, it is recommended to select a special primer.

The work can be done with a roller or brush.

Before proceeding to the next stage, you need to wait until the soil dries. This takes up to 2 hours.

Work with wet screed involves the installation of waterproofing of the base. This is especially true at the junctions of floor slabs with walls and near communications.

Waterproofing comes in the form of:

rolled materials (polyethylene or PVC film, roofing felt);
mastics consisting of polymer, resinous and rubber components;
liquid compositions that penetrate deeply into pores and form a thin protective film;
dry mixtures that contain astringent polymer components and are diluted with water.

When installing wet and semi-dry screeds roll waterproofing not used.

Liquid waterproofing materials differ in the types of water-repellent components in their composition:

bitumen;
polymer;
bitumen-polymer;
mineral.

Like a primer, waterproofing is applied to the surface with a roller or brush.

We determine the floor level and set up beacons

An important step in pouring a floor with concrete with your own hands is determining the level of the finished floor and setting the beacons. Laser level will help determine differences in the base. Markings are made on the walls around the perimeter of the room.

Step-by-step description of how to do this:

From door threshold measure 1 m and put a mark.
Draw a control line around the perimeter of the room, connecting the marks.
Draw a second line 1 m below the reference line.
Attach the cord to the bottom line.

This marking will help you position the beacons correctly.

What you need to know about lighthouses?

Beacons are guidelines that simplify the work with the screed and allow you to get a flat surface without level differences.

Beacons must be installed at a distance less than the length of the alignment rule. They are fixed motionless with a solution.

After the screed has set, you can remove the slats and cover the remaining grooves with mortar.

Nuances of floor structure reinforcement

Depending on the load on the base, reinforcement may be necessary. This can be done by welding metal carcass, capable of withstanding heavy loads, or by laying a reinforcing mesh designed for smaller loads (see photo of screeds with reinforcement).

The following structures and materials can be used to reinforce floors:

reinforcement frame;
wire mesh;
metal mesh with cells from 5 to 20 cm;
polymer or fiberglass mesh;
fiber additives in concrete mortar.

There are several basic rules for screed reinforcement:

Uniform distribution of reinforcing material (except for fiberglass) in the screed immediately before pouring.
The reinforcing structure should not prevent the concrete from being distributed over the entire surface and be completely immersed in the solution in order to prevent corrosion and oxidation upon contact with air and moisture.
The reinforcing material must adhere well to the concrete. It is necessary to exclude the appearance of oily substances and paints on its surface.

In most cases, reinforcement is made of metal or polymer mesh. Frame reinforcement is justified only when the floor screed and the base represent an integral supporting structure or the need for it is confirmed by calculations. Reinforced concrete structure in this case, it must have a thickness of at least 10 cm, and the height of the reinforcing frame must be at least 5 cm.

Preparation of the working mixture

To properly fill the screed, you need to prepare the mixture correctly. Having made the calculation required quantity Once you have all the ingredients to prepare the mortar for filling the floor, you can start mixing it. The main rule in this is that all dry and liquid components are mixed separately in different containers.

To make the solution plastic, special additives are diluted in water according to the instructions. In most cases, the following proportion is indicated: 200 g of plasticizer is added to 50 kg of cement-sand mixture. It is best to do this in portions to prevent the solution from losing its properties. Water is needed in an amount of 1/3 of the weight of cement.

The next step is mixing the liquid and dry ingredients. The dry mixture is poured into the liquid, slowly and constantly stirring, and not vice versa. Otherwise, dense lumps will form in the solution, which cannot be stirred.

The resulting viscous and thick solution, reminiscent of dough, is quickly distributed over the base.

Fill the floor. Pouring technology

You can either prepare concrete for screed yourself or buy it ready mixture for filling the floor. The mixture is more expensive, but following the instructions on the packaging, you can get a high-quality cement screed. A self-cooking It is better to do the solution if you have at least a little experience and confidence in your actions.

The mixture purchased or prepared by yourself is distributed with vibrating movements with a spatula or rule along the base along the installed beacons. This way the solution will be applied evenly and air bubbles will come out of it. You need to get rid of bubbles, since they cause voids to form in the thickness of the coating, affecting its strength.

The areas between the beacons are poured sequentially one after another, moving towards the exit, until the entire area of the room is covered with the solution. It will take approximately 72 hours for the floor to dry, and after a month it will acquire maximum strength.

The technology of filling the floor with mortar also suggests the possibility of installing a cushion made of expanded clay. This method allows you to reduce its cost and improve sound and heat insulation qualities. For this screed, 2 marks are made on the beacons: one determines the level of the expanded clay layer, the other determines the level of the mortar.

Before pouring the expanded clay layer concrete mixture, it must first be filled with “cement laitance” (a liquid mixture of water and cement) and left to dry for a day. This will make the expanded clay embankment strong and you can step on it without falling through. After this, the screed is poured as described above.

Solidification of the solution

The main criterion influencing the drying time of the screed is the type of solution from which it is made:

Based on gypsum. The gypsum screed sets quickly in 3-4 hours, and dries completely and gains maximum strength after a week. You can start laying ceramics after 3 days, provided that the thickness of the screed is no more than 40 mm. Each additional 1 cm to the thickness of the screed adds 90 hours to the drying time.
Cement based. This type of screed takes almost 2 times longer to dry than gypsum screed. But the final drying time depends on the method of pouring. For simple concreting, there is a rule: 1 cm of screed takes 1 week to dry. The semi-dry pour should have a thickness of at least 5-6 cm, recommended - 7-10 cm. After 12 hours you can walk on it, after 72 hours - lay linoleum and tiles, after a week - parquet and laminate.
Dry screed is the fastest option and does not require waiting for drying.

Finishing the floor

Materials and their use for concrete coating are specified in GOST 31384-2008, SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings”, SNiP 2.03.13-88 “Floors”. The choice of one material or another depends on the purpose of the room and preferences.

The primer is the most in a simple way make the concrete surface stronger, more attractive and protect it from the formation of dust. The primer can be different types primers:

Epoxy, characterized by good waterproofing and resistance to detergents. Dries in 1 hour.
Polyurethane, penetrates deeply into the pores of concrete and adheres well to it. Dries within 12 hours.
Acrylic, which costs less than the other 2, dries in 4 hours.

The paint is well suited for covering concrete floors if there are no requirements for sound and heat insulation. It should only be applied together with a primer compatible with it:

Epoxy-based paint is durable and resistant to aggressive environments.
Polyurethane-based enamel has good hiding power and allows you to get a smooth finish.
Acrylic enamel is moisture resistant.

Floor care after pouring

The screed must be strong and reliable, not crack or delaminate. To do this, it must dry gradually and evenly. Periodic moistening of the surface is required, which must be covered with polyethylene to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture. It is necessary to exclude direct sunlight and drafts in the room.

After 24 hours, the beacons are removed, the grooves from them are sealed with the same solution and rubbed while the solution is still wet.

If, after the screed has dried, depressions form, the floor can be filled with a self-leveling mixture to obtain a flat and smooth surface.

The screed in the apartment is performed to level the tiled floor, mask communications, provide a reliable foundation for laying decorative flooring and for noise and heat insulation load-bearing structure. This article will talk about the features of cement screed and dry backfill. And will also be given practical recommendations for filling the floor.

The floor screed should level the top layer for further work. But it has other features:

the rough layer significantly strengthens the lower concrete layer of the floor;
the fact that the screed is made in a continuous layer guarantees at least some protection from noise penetration;
the layer waterproofs the base, preventing water and fumes from entering the lower floors and reaching neighbors;
inside the screed you can lay the necessary communications (wiring, water and sewer lines);
It’s easy to integrate heating (electric or water) into the screed, which makes it possible to save on additional heating premises, and the built-in heat is distributed evenly throughout the concrete slab with greater efficiency;
The screed raises the floor to the required height.

Types of coatings

Cement mortar

A cement screed is the layer above a concrete slab; it is prepared from sand and cement. This is the basic structure of the floor to prepare the base for flooring. Cement screed requires special attention to cooking. Independent Mixing cement mortar consists of combining cement, sand and water. But it’s quickest and most convenient to work with dry mixes that are sold in the store.

Attention

Cement screed stabilizes the temperature in the house, regulates humidity, and creates additional comfort. A heated floor system is usually installed on it. Due to the large thermal inertia, such a heating system cannot be single. Needs to be installed additional sources heat. But a comfortable internal climate is regulated by an even screed.

Dry backfill

Leveling the floor occurs by dry backfilling onto the surface of a clean, level concrete base. Depending on the purpose, dry screed can be classified into the following types:

Alpha. Designed for laying on flat surfaces.
Beta. It is laid on a flat floor on top of a heat-insulating porous-fiber material.
Vega. The floor is made using dry backfill.
Gamma. Installation is carried out on a combined substrate.

Dry screeding is easiest to do in dry weather conditions. Suitable for apartments where the level of condensation is high, for example, when living on the ground floor. More moisture accumulates there and is required additional protection surfaces from liquid ingress. The dry method is suitable for humid environments, but it can also be used in other climatic conditions.

Using dry technology is convenient: after just a few days, other materials can be applied on top of it. When it gets stronger and becomes uniform, it will withstand any permissible load.

Concrete coating yourself step by step: step-by-step instructions

Surface preparation

From the base surface (with concrete slab) you need to remove all the dirt, existing construction debris with a vacuum cleaner or walk damp cloth over the entire surface. Then prime the clean layer well. This is done in two approaches:

First, prime the first time, wait for it to dry, then begin to apply the second layer of primer.
After the second layer has dried, a damper tape is applied around the perimeter of the base.

The damper tape will form required clearance and will protect against leaks when applying the solution. A layer of liquid or roll waterproofing is laid on top. It is important to calculate the difference in the level of the base to avoid curvature of the poured base. You will need to select the layer thickness and the right material for filling. The level marks the most high points. A cord is pulled along them, and measurements are taken of other, more significant recesses. By drawing up a measurement diagram, you can easily mark the lines along the perimeter. For small differences (within 2 cm), work is performed with self-leveling mixtures. This is a rare case. Usually a rough layer is required, which additionally provides sound insulation.

Installation of beacons

Beacons must be installed so that the floor surface is 100% evenly filled with concrete. Without them, it will not be possible to level and make the base smooth. Many people consider the procedure difficult to perform, but this is not so. The main thing is to execute correct measurements, make a diagram. The principle of laying beacons:

For work you will need metal profiles. It is necessary to check them in advance for the possible presence of deformations (unevenness of parts, difference in length, bending). All these parameters must not have deviations, otherwise the surface will not be leveled as well as necessary.
Beacons are installed at a distance slightly less than the rule. 15 cm from the wall is enough. Lines are drawn at specified intervals.
Fixation is carried out using cement or gypsum mixture. Plaster dries faster. Cement mortar takes longer to set.
Parts are distributed according to the marks from the beacons, according to required thickness the applied layer levels all surfaces.

Attention

After completing the work, the level checks the evenness of the installation of the beacons. If the length of the level is not enough for the entire plane, then use two rules, in the middle of which they place necessary tool. They walk across the entire width of the room with measurements.

Mixing the solution

If the thickness exceeds 4–5 cm, reinforcement is necessary. It will improve quality characteristics coverings. The work is carried out with a special mesh laid at a short distance from the base. To form a gap, use linings from scrap materials. Prepare the mixture for pouring. The quality and comfort of further actions will depend on the correct combination of components. The easiest way to prepare a solution is to take sand, cement and some water. The standard proportion is 1:3. For 1 bucket of cement there are 3 buckets of sand. In this case, water must be poured gradually until a homogeneous paste-like consistency is formed. The procedure for preparing the solution at home:

Pour dry ingredients into a tray or basin and mix thoroughly.
When the cement and sand are well mixed, water is gradually poured into them in a thin stream.
Knead without stopping until the consistency reaches a homogeneous structure (there should be no lumps or solid inclusions).
The mixture should not be too liquid. To ensure viscosity, you can add a little more sand.
To enhance the properties of the solution, plasticizers are added to it.

Fill

After mixing the mixture, the floor covering is prepared for pouring in two stages: creating a rough and finishing floor covering. To prepare the rough surface, mix the solution. Stages:

The composition begins to be poured from a certain place. To do this, choose a wall distant from the doorway.
In the intervals between the beacons, apply the mixture and distribute it over the surface as a rule. Pressing the instrument slightly, move it along the floor with rocking movements.
Consistently begin to pour the mixture into all the gaps.
When the solution has set, all beacons are removed sequentially. All places that have undergone deformation are covered with the remaining mixture.
The coated layer is left to dry until completely ready.

Complete drying of the solution takes approximately three days. After this time you can start additional work on surface formation, laying tiles, linoleum.

Tools and materials

You will need the following materials:

Cement. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. This material has a high percentage of shrinkage, and therefore there is a danger of cracking.
Gypsum. The screed made on the basis of gypsum is very plastic and easy to install. Does not shrink, dries quickly. This is an ideal base for pouring heated floors.
Self-leveling mixture. In a short period of time it allows you to obtain a flat surface with a thickness of 3 to 30 mm. The material was created to form a finishing coating.

You need to stock up on the following tools:

container for mixing the solution, and when large areas– concrete mixer;
level (preferably laser);
rule;
spatulas of different lengths and shapes;
drill with mixer attachment;
auxiliary materials (cord, chalk or pencil, meter).

Sand concrete pouring technology

Sand concrete is a dense solution, so its use is justified for layers thicker than 2 cm. For smaller thicknesses, cement-based mixtures are used. A solution of liquid consistency is poured over the base and leveled naturally. The technology is as follows:

A sand concrete solution is laid out on the beacons.
After 8–10 days, a self-leveling floor is poured over it.

It is optimal to lay sand concrete and cement in layers, on top of each other. The sand concrete should dry well, but not completely. Wet material It will not take up so much water from the self-leveling floor.

Experts advise listening to the following advice:

When planning finishing Using a self-leveling mixture, you need to ensure a perfectly flat surface. There is no need to achieve the glossiness of the filling mixture, since rough sand particles will not be able to spread across the floor in an ideal layer. There will always be a slightly rough base.
An excess of water in solutions should not be allowed. At first, when laying, the water mixture seems to be ideal, but over time it shrinks greatly. The surface becomes uneven. If there is excess moisture, cracks will appear, which will then take a long time to be smoothed out with a new portion of the mixture.
When working, you need to close the windows with curtains so that straight Sun rays did not come into contact with the poured solution. Do not open doors to avoid drafts.
During the period of strengthening to the point where it is possible to walk (3–5 days), it is necessary to exclude the movement of people and pets on it.
Beacons should not be removed immediately upon completion of work, but after 2–3 days. The identified grooves are rubbed over with the remnants of the prepared mixture.
Complete drying occurs in approximately 28–30 days. You should not start finishing the floor before this period has expired.