Almost every one of us has gone on a camping trip or spent the night in nature. Or to events. And at this moment it is simply necessary to have a tent with you, which is a temporary dwelling, which is erected in the form of a collapsible device. It is designed to provide a place to hide from unfavorable weather conditions, as well as temporarily accommodate people.

Is it possible to sew a tent at home, for example in an apartment, with only sewing machine? Let's try.

First, we need to decide what type of tent we need. You can find a lot on the net different types, but the most practical (in my opinion) is a tent house. Why? Yes, because such a tent is easier to sew, due to the fact that its roof protrudes along the edges, and if you miss somewhere (and you will miss anyway) with the dimensions of the walls or during the work process, this protruding margin will forgive you everything. In addition, a tent house uses space more efficiently.

Here's an example: two tents that have the same width and height. No comments needed.
One more point: these tents are historical, that is, they can be used in reconstruction activities.

What do we do next? That's right, any work begins with the construction of a working drawing. You must decide what size your creation will be and accordingly calculate how much material you will need. Having a drawing general view, draw individual parts (patterns), which you will then sew together.

IMPORTANT: when drawing patterns of parts, do not forget about the allowances for stitching and tucking the edges! Also, do not forget to make the height a little larger than necessary so that the lower edges of the walls lie on the ground. So that it does not blow from below. I think you can handle this easily. If you need to calculate the length of the hypotenuse, here you go The link is visible only to registered users .

Next comes the choice of tarpaulin. I will not focus on this issue, because you can easily find the necessary information on the Internet. Whether you buy it or get it using your own methods is your business.

So, there is a tarpaulin, the drawing is ready. Let's get started practical work. Cut it and sew it. This is an individual matter, depending on what kind of tarpaulin you have. Large piece or ribbon.

Let's decide on the names of the parts:
1. Roof
2. Front wall (entrance)
3. Rear wall
4. Left wall
5. Right wall

The parts can be made by you from a single piece, or they can be sewn from several parts. In the second case, pay attention to the direction and correctness of the seams. For example, in a roof, the seams should be vertical. Direction along the flow of water. To prevent water from flowing in. If the seams are horizontal, then tuck them so that the water also drains and does not flow into the seam.

I chose the following sewing method: First, I sewed the front and back walls to the roof. Then the side ones. Then I sewed all the walls together. At the end, I sewed the necessary loops (eyelets) and tied the ropes.

An important point: sew all gadgets (pockets, hooks, windows, pockets for stands, etc.) directly to the parts before sewing them together, this will make your work easier.

When sewing, arrange the pieces so that the smaller piece is on the right. Why? Yes, it’s very simple: look at the sewing machine and you will understand everything yourself. It is better to work together, one sews, and the other helps, supporting the fabric. During the sewing process, you will have to help pull the seam, because not everything is so simple. To make the part fit into the machine, I twisted it into a tube.

On winter fishing, you can’t do without a comfortable and spacious tent - this is especially felt when fishermen are waiting for a bite in severe frost and windy weather, sitting for hours at the ice hole. Those who have a tent are lucky, they can warm up in it from time to time. But today a good tent costs quite a lot of money, and what is the solution for those who cannot afford to buy it? Here you will read about how to make a tent yourself. This process does not require special skills or knowledge.

Typically, tents that fishermen make themselves must be placed in a fishing box. By the way, you can also make a box yourself (you can also read about this on our website), which is what many fishermen do, although it is available for sale.
In addition to the box itself, you must use accessories from this list:
two pairs of skis, one pair of children’s skis, one pair of school skis;
tubes (you can use ski poles here);
unnecessary folding bed;
tarpaulin or other thick fabric.

DIY winter tent: drawings

Step-by-step instructions for making a winter fishing tent

Since the ski poles will serve as a frame, we install them vertically. The tubes that we will place vertically should be thinner. At the corners, the frame is secured with tees - their diameter must correspond to the diameter of the vertical and horizontal tubes.
The next step is to attach the vertical tubes to the skis. We attach it to the ski metal plate, insert it into its T-shaped tongue - it is attached to the lower end of the tube. To fix the stick, just turn it 90 degrees.
Let's take it old folding bed, we prepare two sticks - they will serve as a connection between the frame and the box. We take a bent tube, at the end of which there is a docking unit. At the other end of the tube there is a latch - this is fastener for the docking station.
We make a spring from a copper strip that connects the box and the tubes. The last step is tensioning the awning. At the bottom of the awning we attach metal strips with holes. You need to insert brackets into these holes, which are secured to the ends of the skis. We connect the awning to the brackets using ropes. To make the tent stable on ice, we equip it with two anchors.

If we do not secure the tent on the ice, then the slightest movement and the tent will “move” in any direction, especially if the wind is blowing. Therefore, we need to prepare special pegs with a thread located at the end. THEY can be made from long and strong self-tapping screws, bending the top of them to form a hook. You can also go to hardware store– You will usually find threaded hooks in all sizes.

Making your own tent in the form of a house

Let's consider another type of tent, which is also often used by fishermen in winter - these are tents in the form of a house.
To make such a tent, you need to take:
waterproof fabric – 14 sq. m.;
metal washers with a diameter of 1.5 mm – up to 20 pcs.;
braided rope – 15 m;
tape of small width – 9 m;
rubberized fabric for bedding – 6 m.

When we have all the materials prepared, we move on to making the tent. It will be designed for one or two people. First, we cut out 2 pieces of fabric, identical in size - 1.8 x 0.9 m. We make a marking of 65 cm along the long side, and do the same on the other side. We cut the fabric at the connection points. This creates the entrance and back wall of the tent.

Setting up a winter tent on ice

It takes very little time to assemble a homemade ski tent:
We connect the skis with attached tongues to the halves of the tubes, which are located parallel to the skis. We direct them inside the tent.
Each pair of bent tubes must be threaded through special holes located on the ski racks.
We connect the skis to each other so that a triangle is formed.
A fishing box must be installed on the structure obtained in this way.
Vertical stands are installed at the ends of each ski - 4 pieces.
Using tees we form the roof. We install them on each of the vertical posts.
We take horizontal tubes and finish forming the frame.
We throw fabric over the frame - it must be secured using short ropes.

To dismantle such a tent, we perform all the steps, only reverse order. To make it easier to assemble and disassemble the tent, number each of the structural elements. This way you will save valuable time.

Alternative options

Oilcloth

Those who don't have winter tent for fishing, they can use the most ordinary oilcloth. IN in this case the frame will be the fisherman himself. However, you need to remember that if you actively make hooks while fishing, then after such movements the oilcloth may simply fly off. The stand can be an ice ax or an ice pick stuck into the ice. We bend the lower edge of the oilcloth inward and fix it with any suitable objects that are at hand.

Option from a tourist tent

Those who have a camping tent can use it for winter fishing. It would be good if it had a bottom. To use such a shelter for winter fishing, you need to modify it somewhat. We make a U-shaped cutout at the bottom - through it we gain access to the holes. It will be more convenient if you sew a zipper there. A tourist tent is usually cheaper than a specialized fishing tent - you can use it for winter fishing and directly for tourism.

The tent is designed to protect tourists, travelers from bad weather, promotes the best holiday. But standard tourist designs may not be suitable for fishing. The reason is the requirements for arrangement, optimization of internal space. Therefore, a homemade fishing tent may be better than classic factory models.

Types of structures

First, you need to choose a design. A good homemade tent for winter fishing with your own hands will differ from the summer version. One of the criteria is size and weight. In winter, it can accommodate a maximum of two people. This is due to space saving and weight optimization. Summer options completely identical to the factory models, since the fishing process does not take place from it.

General requirements:

• Light weight and size. It should be compact when folded and easily fit into a backpack.
• Possibility of movement when assembled. This is important for winter fishing.
• The fabric is dense, but allows air to pass through. The reason is that an open fire is sometimes lit in a homemade fishing tent.

The arrangement of the interior space is done independently. It is not recommended to divide it into several sections, but you can make convenient pockets for storing equipment and fishing gear. The color of the awning is bright, this increases safety, the tent will be visible from afar.

Homemade design drawings

The standard model should consist of a frame and an awning attached to it. It is advisable to double lining. The first will protect from the wind, partly from temperature changes. The second layer, the inner one, is needed for air circulation through the valves. The frame is made from aluminum pipes or spring steel bars. The first one is easier to do, but installation and dismantling will take more time.

An interesting solution is to install a frame on skis. A fishing box is also attached to them. This increases mobility, but complicates assembly and disassembly. Drawing homemade design convenient when traveling by car, as it will be difficult to carry. It is recommended to use lightweight materials to keep the weight to a minimum.

Requirements:

• Calculate volume, weight and base area.
• Determine the speed of assembly and disassembly.
• Select materials and components.
• Mobility, ability to quickly transfer.

The original drawings can be modernized and changed. It is important that adjustments do not affect functionality and reliability. It is recommended to calculate the wind load, total weight and dimensions.

Materials and tools

For production, you can use scrap materials. Requirements: resistance to corrosion and temperature changes. Therefore, aluminum tubes are used as the base. They have good stability indicators and low specific gravity. The problem is the complexity of processing. Welding aluminum is difficult, mechanical connections are recommended.

To make a homemade tent for winter fishing with your own hands, you need a standard set of tools:

• hacksaw for metal;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• tape measure, ruler;
• a pipe bending machine or its homemade equivalent;
• drill.

The diameter of aluminum is 4 cm. The wall thickness is from 0.5 cm. Smaller sizes are difficult to process. It is not recommended to make a waterproof awning yourself; it is better to buy it ready material. A pattern is drawn up in advance. Mechanical connections– hinged, bolted. To fix it on ice, add braided rope and aluminum pegs.

The awning must be firmly attached to the frame. IN field conditions at low temperatures It will be difficult to set up a homemade tent. For connection individual elements You can use carabiners or similar devices.

For carrying, a case is made of waterproof fabric. Separately for components – pegs, frame elements. This will make it easier to carry, assemble and disassemble. The case must have fastening elements for fixing it on a backpack or other equipment.

Manufacturing

Assembly begins with the manufacture of the frame. First, a base is made from aluminum tubes. Then the load-bearing elements of the side walls and ceiling are attached. The optimal design is a dome design. After making the frame, it is checked for mechanical strength, reliability. Steel components with rust protection, stainless steel or special coating.

Checking patterns and fabric sizes. It is recommended to leave a small margin around the edges, 2-3 cm. Sewing the awning is done in two stages - first the outer one, and then inner layer. You can make loops for attaching to the frame using removable rivets. The use of zippers is undesirable, since if moisture gets in, it will be difficult to open, and over time the metal will rust.

From experience, the first homemade fishing tent rarely turns out well. But the design can be modernized and changed. It will turn out good homemade equipment, which in terms of quality will not be inferior to factory analogues.

For self-made tents are recommended to be used following materials density (in g/m²): treacle fabric – 260, raincoat fabric – 200, percale – 60-100, nylon – 40-50, rubberized duplicated percale (fabric 500) – 250, medical oilcloth – 200, “Bologna” – 60- 70. For awnings, use polyethylene film - 50-100 g/m².

If tents are made from one type of fabric, then it is advisable to use raincoat fabric (it is the most durable of the above materials and is also often sold with water-repellent impregnation), or dense percale, which, although inferior in strength, is twice as light.

Magnitude specific consumption fabrics for each type of tent of all sizes are approximately the same. This means that the fabric consumption, while maintaining the dimensions, is proportional to the floor area. Knowing the floor area and taking the coefficient from the table, calculate the required amount of fabric. This coefficient for tents with other sizes (double and single slope) can be taken equal to 4.5, and for three-pitch tents - 4.0. Taking into account cutting losses – 5.0 and 4.5, respectively.

The table shows that three-pitch tents are the most economical in terms of fabric consumption, and therefore the lightest. A four-person tent requires on average 2 m² (and taking into account the awning 5 m²) less fabric than a gable tent, and the weight of the first is correspondingly 10-20% less than the weight of the second.

The disadvantage of three-pitch tents is their smaller comfort zone, however, it can be increased without almost compromising the weight characteristics by increasing the height by 10-20 cm.

For tourists who intend to make equipment on their own, such a characteristic as the weight of the tent per person is important. The weight of the tent, the amount of fabric consumed, and therefore the cost depend on its capacity and design. You should also decide whether you need a tent with or without an awning. In the first case, the weight of the equipment will be slightly larger, but it will be more reliably protected from rain, cold, and sun. In addition, in hot weather the awning can be used without a tent. In the second case, the tents are lighter and cheaper. Therefore, the table shows data on fabric consumption for both a tent with and without an awning.

For traveling in a forest area, it is recommended to sew a lean-to tent. It is easy to manufacture and has, compared to two- and three-slope largest zone comfort and entrance area. If necessary, by pulling the front wall at an angle, you can turn it into a gable wall and accommodate two or three more people in it. With this option, to protect from the wind, wedges are sewn between the edges of the front and side walls (1 – entrance panel; 2 – gauze canopy).

Simple awning structure rectangular shape will significantly increase its capabilities: in bad weather, it is convenient to carry out repairs under it, or make a small fire.

For mountain travel, a three-slope or penta-slope tent about 1.5 m wide with some modification of the entrance part is suitable. Since in the mountains people usually sleep with their heads towards the entrance, the tent can be narrowed towards back wall up to 1.2 m. This will reduce the windage and weight of the tent and allow it to be better placed on a small area. Two panels of waterproof fabric are sewn onto the entrance, which are pulled over the front guy or attached to it, forming a space in which things can be placed on the sides and a kerosene stove can be placed in the middle. In the mountains above the forest line, strong winds are common; in these conditions, the presence of an awning makes it difficult to install a tent, so it is better to make the roof of such a tent from waterproof material, and to prevent stuffiness in the tent, a ring from a ski pole is sewn at the very top and a sleeve is made into which wire twisted into a spiral is sewn for rigidity. Compared to the commonly used “Pamirki” tents, this tent has less weight, is easier to install and only needs one pole.

For hiking in the tundra and steppe, the best option is a three- or five-slope tent with a tent that closes tightly on the front guy and goes down to the ground, with a stand slightly offset from the entrance. At the same time, the comfort zone increases and the material consumption for the awning decreases. You can also use a regular gable tent with a solid awning. In this case, on the one hand they do entrance vestibule, on the other - the kitchen.

For areas where there are midges in the summer, to protect against insects and obtain sufficient ventilation, a canopy of gauze or thick tulle is sewn onto the entrance. It is made in the form of a freely hanging curtain, hemmed to the sides and roof of the tent. The lower part of the canopy should have an overlap that allows it to be pulled up. canopy to the roof. You need to know that the canopy impairs air exchange. This is especially noticeable in hot, windless weather. Obviously, in these cases the tent must have large area entrance.

a – with a central guy; b – with side braces

Experienced tourists in the forest area can use an awning instead of a tent. As the latter, a piece of dense, rubberized fabric is used, polyethylene film. The awning reliably protects from rain, is lightweight, takes up little space, and is easy to install. In inclement weather, it is convenient to cook a camp lunch, repair equipment, or relax by the fire. If overnight stays are expected during the trip, open places, then the awning is folded along the edges for protection from the wind or additional panels are sewn to it. Awnings made of polyethylene film. stitched or soldered with a soldering iron, do not withstand strong winds and break off at the fastening points. The best, from the point of view of strength, is the method of attaching guy ropes, in which small objects are placed in the film at the attachment points at some distance from the edge - pieces of foam plastic, pebbles and tied with a rope intended for guy ropes.

The latter are placed every 0.5-1 m. Since maximum forces occur when the panel “claps”, it is advisable to reduce it by attaching the panels with additional ropes.

IN summer time To protect against mosquitoes, ticks, and poisonous animals, the awning is used together with a gauze canopy. The canopy is sewn taking into account that the width for one person is at least 0.5, and the height of the side walls is 1.2 m. To ensure the necessary gap between the walls of the canopy and sleeping people, its width is increased by 30-40 cm. Most often, the canopy has rectangular or gable tent shape. The latter is more convenient in the forest. If the canopy is sewn with a floor made of thin durable fabric, for example, satin, its height is reduced to 80 cm. If you plan to work while sitting under the canopy, its height above your head is increased to 1.2 m. The width of the cells is no more than 1.5 mm for protection against mosquitoes and 0.8 mm for protection against midges . In areas with a dry climate or in stable weather, the canopy is used without an awning.

a – rectangular in shape: 1 – gauze or clean mesh; 2 – thin dense material; 3 – options for installing pegs;
b – forms of a gable tent: 1 – gauze; 2 – thin material

When traveling through a heavily swampy forest or during spring floods, when it is difficult to find a dry place to set up a tent, set up a hammock. For it, take a sheet of thin tarpaulin 60-70 cm wide and 2 m long. A suitable piece of polyethylene can be used as an awning. All this together takes up little space and weighs 0.5-0.7 kg. This eliminates the need for air mattress or a rug.

The most difficult operating conditions for tents are during winter travel. Permanent negative temperatures, strong winds, short daylight hours give rise to a special type of fatigue, characteristic only of winter hikes - cold fatigue. If, after the end of a busy day, tourists do not have the opportunity to fully rest and relax, then fatigue will quickly accumulate, which can lead to a psychological breakdown. Therefore, a tourist home must reliably protect against the vicissitudes of the weather and provide a certain comfort of rest. A tent for winter travel should be loose and have a larger comfort zone than a tent designed for the warm season.

Winter tents can be single or double. In the forest zone, it is more advisable to use single ones - they have less weight, are installed faster, and are easier to dry. The heat balance in them is maintained using a stove. Single tents are made from thin, dense fabrics - percale, linen. For the roof and lower part of the walls, waterproof material is used - rubberized fabric, nylon. At the same time, there is no need for daily drying of the tent - condensation from the inside and snow from the outside can be easily removed with a broom. In frosty snowy weather, when the snow is frozen, it is recommended to warm up the tent so that the snow thaws, and then sweep it away. In tents made of dense material, it is necessary to provide special sleeves for ventilation.

In a forest area, if there is no stove, it is more advisable to use double tents. They retain heat better than single ones. Therefore, when spending the night in such tents, there is no need for night shifts to maintain heat.

For traveling through open treeless spaces, a double tent is most suitable, as it retains heat quite well and has a small windage. The outer tent is made of windproof and non-moisture-absorbing fabric, the inner one is made of thin material - percale, satin. The inner tent is connected to the outer tent using carabiners. The distance between the walls should be 5-10 cm. For ventilation, use a special sleeve, which is sewn to the outer tent in the center at the top of the tent or slightly below it. In the first case, the sleeve is brought out, and so that it does not wrinkle, a wire spiral is inserted into it. A ring is sewn into its base, and a ski pole pin is inserted into the central hole. In the inner tent, a ring is also sewn into the top of the tent, which, when installed, is attached in three places to the ring of the outer tent. To regulate ventilation, a thin fabric sleeve is additionally sewn to the latter. If the sleeve is placed on the slope of the tent, the design of the tent is simplified, but when it snows, snow gets into the tent through it.

For a group of six people, the following dimensions of a tent tent are recommended: length and width 2.5, height 1.8, side height 0.4-0.5 m. For a group of 8 people, the dimensions are respectively 2.8; 2 and 0.6 m. For ease of placement, the central stake will be placed towards the entrance.

The entrance to the tent should open and close conveniently and quickly, which is very important in snowstorms and severe frosts, and reliably protect the home from blowing out. The usual design of the tent entrance in the form of two flaps with zippers, brakes, and long loops is undesirable, since you can freeze your hands when trying to open a jammed zipper or fastening numerous icy loops. For winter tents, the entrance is made in the form of a sleeve with a diameter of 0.7-1.0 m or a freely hanging curtain, the edge of which is folded inward and pressed with a heavy object.

To remove the stove pipe from the tent, sew into it metal insert with a serrated hole along the diameter of the pipe. The contact between such an insert and the pipe is point-like, the heat transfer is small and its heating is insignificant. The insert is sewn to the tent with thin wire or riveted. The fiberglass insert is lighter and more comfortable. To prevent the fabric from fraying, fold its edges. An aluminum ring is inserted into the central hole for strengthening, which is sewn with thin wire.

DIY tent - how to make it

Outdoor recreation can bring many pleasant moments and new experiences. To make your impromptu vacation enjoyable, you need to take care of a place to stay. For this purpose, summer and winter tents of different capacities and shapes are used.

But what to do if you couldn’t find a suitable tent or its cost is too high? There is only one way out - to make a tent from scrap materials with your own hands. Fortunately, this process does not require major capital investments, and the production itself will take a minimum of time.

How to make a tent yourself

Most tourists prefer to buy ready-made tents, because modern market There is a huge variety of models: summer, three-season and for winter fishing. But, if you do not have the opportunity to buy such a design, you can sew it yourself.

Picture 1. Step by step diagram manufacturing

The easiest way to make a tent is in the form of a house. It is suitable for fishing, for the garden, and for outdoor recreation. To make a simple two-person shelter, you will need a piece of water-repellent fabric approximately 14 square meters in area, 20 metal washers with a diameter of 1.5 mm, narrow strong tape 9 meters long, 15 meters of braided rope and rubberized fabric (about 6 meters) that will act as the bottom (Figure 1).

The frame of such a tent, if desired, can be made from PVC pipes. But, if you need a lightweight and mobile design, it is better to do without them.

The product is manufactured step by step as follows:

1. First, cut two pieces of fabric measuring 0.9 x 1.8 m.
2. On the longer side you need to put marks every 65 cm. Similar actions are performed on the short side.
3. The fabric is cut at the joining points so that you end up with the entrance to the tent and its back wall.
4. Next, all joints need to be stitched. To make the seams strong, it is advisable to reinforce them with tape.

If you don't have a special water-repellent fabric, you can use regular fabric. In case of bad weather, this structure is simply covered with film. In addition, it is advisable to sew rings along the edge of the tent, with the help of which the shelter will be fixed to the site. Typically, such rings are placed at the bottom of the awning, but they can additionally be installed at the place where the awning is attached to the frame.

What materials are required

It is quite possible to sew a tent, including a fishing tent, using available materials. But in order for the shelter to be truly durable and provide good protection from bad weather, you need to strictly follow the manufacturing instructions and select the right materials (Figure 2).

The tent will reliably protect you from bad weather in summer and winter if it meets the following requirements:

1. The structure must be made of durable and reliable fabrics that can withstand heavy rain, snow and gusts of wind.
2. The product should be made in accordance with the number of vacationers, and not only the number of vacationers, but also their height should be taken into account. Only in this case will all residents be comfortable under the awning.
3. The weight of the finished structure also has important, especially if you are going not just fishing, but on a real hike with long treks. Considering this factor, it is better to make the frame not from plastic pipes, but made of durable thin wire or plastic strips connected with an elastic band. The design of such a frame can be borrowed from trekking or children's tents.

Figure 2. Tent materials must be durable and waterproof

Taking into account all the requirements described above, you need to be very careful when choosing materials. They must be durable, waterproof and lightweight. As a basis for an awning, you can use tarpaulin, percale (including rubberized), raincoat fabric or special tent fabric. The last option is considered the best.

The initial amount of materials directly depends on the size of the future tent, although the difference will not be too big. For example, a gable or single-pitched tent for 3-4 people will take 3 square meters less fabric than a gable structure of the same capacity.

In addition to the fabric for the awning itself, you will also need some Additional materials: strong ropes for fastening the structure, tapes for finishing seams, a bottom made of waterproof material, threads and a needle for sewing.

Types of tents

Regular summer camping tents can be made in the form of a house, a dome, or be pitched. A winter tent is considered more complex, which should protect residents from precipitation and low temperatures.

You can also make a tent for children with your own hands. This design is even simpler and can be made in just a few hours.

Since the winter tent is considered the most difficult to manufacture, we will look at what types of such shelters exist. By the way, such a homemade awning can be used in the forest in the summer, but to do this you will have to make a choice in favor of lighter materials for the awning (Figure 3).

So, durable and resistant to precipitation there are these types:

1. Umbrella: The simplest version of the awning, which can be installed in just a few minutes. This is possible thanks to a special umbrella roof structure. The frame of such an awning is made of plastic or duralumin tubes, which are connected to each other with a durable rubber band. The frame is covered on top with a tarpaulin or other synthetic waterproof fabric. The only drawback of a similar design - in a low level of vapor permeability.
2. Frame: installed on arches. This design is suitable for camping, but fishermen are not very fond of such tents, since even after installation and fastening the tent is not very stable in strong winds. The design of a frame tent is very simple. As a basis, several arc frames made of fiberglass and duralumin are used. The shape of the tent can be any, and the frame is covered with an awning on top.
3. Machine: the most modern and easiest to install option. The base of the tent consists of thin and flexible metal rods. With their help, the tent can be quickly unfolded and then assembled into a compact cover. The disadvantage of this model is considered to be low resistance to adverse factors. environment. That is why it is used for one-day fishing or short recreation in nature.

Figure 3. Main types of shelters: umbrella, automatic and frame

All types of tents described above can be made with your own hands using detailed drawings and step-by-step instructions.

Drawings and product diagram

Drawings of simple tents can be found on the Internet and used as a basis for drawing up an individual product diagram (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Drawing of a summer and winter tent

In order for the finished product to be of high quality and comfortable, you need to draw up a plan for its production on paper. First you need to measure the required length and width of the future awning. To do this, it is necessary to take into account the physical parameters of the residents, in particular their height. In calculations, it is advisable to focus on the growth of the tall man, adding about 50 cm to his height. Then you can not only sleep comfortably in the tent, but there will also be enough free space to place personal belongings.

Next, you need to draw up a pattern on paper or directly on fabric. Keep in mind that any tent consists of a floor, a roof and four side walls. There will be a zipper sewn into the front (front) part. Once the pattern is drawn, you need to transfer it to the fabric and cut out the details.

Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

1. All parts need to be sewn together, and a zipper must be sewn into one of the side parts.
2. In order for the tent to be durable, all cuts must be properly processed. A wide tape is usually used for this.
3. It is better to make the floor and back wall of the structure from denser materials or lay out several layers of material.
4. All parts of the product are connected to each other with a thick double or linen seam. This will prevent the tent from leaking moisture even in the heaviest rain.
5. It is advisable to hem the ridge with braid. It must first be washed and then dried so that it does not shrink when wet.
6. You need to lay a thin clothesline between the skate and the braid. Its ends are tied with loops and stretch marks are attached to them. The place where the loops are fastened can be covered with a patch.
7. At the opposite ends of the ridge you need to make holes into which the posts will be inserted. To prevent the slits from tearing, their edges must be treated with strong threads or metal rings inserted into them.

Near the entrance to the tent, you can additionally make a threshold with a zipper. It will prevent inner space awning from moisture and dirt.

Manufacturing of fasteners

The production of fastening elements for a two-person canvas tent deserves special attention, because the stability of the structure and its ability to withstand the wind will depend on their quality.

We are talking about pegs and screws that are used during the installation of the awning.

The material from which the fasteners are made depends on the season of the intended holiday. For example, if you are going outdoors in the summer, it is better to make the fasteners from light metal so that the folded tent is easy to carry. If desired, they can be made from any available materials while in nature. Strong branches with a sharpened edge will do so that they can be easily stuck into the ground (Figure 5).

If you want to make your own metal fasteners, be prepared for the process to take a long time. For this purpose, it is best to use long metal rods or strong screws. The top needs to be bent into a ring, and the bottom of the screw is already sharp enough and will fit into the ground without any problems.

Figure 5. Homemade fasteners can be made from thick wire or self-tapping screws

As for the screws, it is better to use a threaded metal tube to make them. For ease of use, it is advisable to secure the handle at the top.

The main stages of manufacturing the structure

IN previous sections We have already looked at how to cut the base for a tarpaulin tent. Now let’s look in more detail at how best to sew a product so that it can withstand strong gusts of wind and not get wet in the rain (Figure 6).

To strengthen the tent structure, follow these instructions:

1. All panels are sewn together with a double seam. To further strengthen its edges, it is advisable to coat rubber glue. This is guaranteed to protect the interior of the shelter from moisture penetration.
2. A pre-washed braid should be secured to the ridge. In this case, it will not shrink and will serve as the basis for a reliable roof.
3. Any stripes that are on the surface of the awning must be sewn along the edges, capturing both the fabric and the loop. This will give reliable connection and at the same time protect the awning from moisture.
4. It is advisable to provide in the rear wall vent with sleeve.

Figure 6. Main stages of making a homemade shelter

If you were unable to get waterproof fabric, you can sew a tent from regular tarpaulin and additionally make an awning from film that can be thrown over the shelter in case of heavy rain.

Rules for setting up a tent

If you strictly followed the instructions for making the awning and frame and used ready-made drawings of tents for hunting, fishing and outdoor recreation, there should not be any particular difficulties in assembling a homemade structure (Figure 7).

Figure 7. Installation of a homemade tent is carried out in the same way as a regular one

In most structures, the tent itself is first laid out on the ground, then the frame arcs are inserted into the slots and loops and secured to the ground surface using special pegs. As a result, the tent takes on a clear shape and stands securely on the ground. At the same time, it is important to store the product in a special case along with pegs and other fasteners, so that upon arrival at your vacation spot you will not be faced with an unpleasant surprise in the form of a lack of necessary fasteners.

You can find instructions for making a simple tent in the video.