Imitation of timber – finishing material from natural wood, which will delight you with its appearance for a long time, but only if two conditions are met: if you purchased quality material and correctly mounted it to the walls.
You can always purchase high-quality material from our company. And in this article we will look at how to attach imitation timber to walls outside and inside.
A little theory: basic rules
In order for the cladding to look beautiful, fastening the imitation timber must meet the following requirements:
- first of all - of course, reliability, because otherwise the joy of beautiful finishes the walls will not last as long as we would like;
- a tight fit of the boards to each other and the creation of a continuous sheet under which dirt and moisture will not penetrate;
- aesthetics: appearance The cladding should be as natural as possible; for this, all joints are carefully masked.
Well, now that we know the basic requirements, let’s see how to properly attach imitation timber and what is the best way to do it.
How to properly attach the sheathing and why is it needed?
Before attaching imitation timber outside or inside a building, there is no need to specially prepare the walls. You can immediately install the sheathing on them - slats, the distance between which is 60 - 80 cm. If the imitation beam is located in the horizontal direction, the slats are attached vertically, and vice versa: if the cladding is positioned vertically, the sheathing should run in the horizontal direction.
Why do you need a sheathing? Air should circulate freely under the imitation timber. Otherwise, the tree will begin to rot. The lathing allows you to leave such free space.
How to properly attach imitation timber to the sheathing?
The fastening of imitation timber boards is usually carried out in a horizontal direction. In this case, some rules are observed:
- Imitation timber cannot be fastened closely to the top and bottom edges of the wall. A minimum gap of 2 cm should be left - this will allow air to circulate freely.
- When mounting horizontally, it is better to go row by row throughout the entire perimeter of the room. If you finish each wall in turn, it will not be so convenient and will take more time. You will waste more material.
- The boards are fastened with the groove down.
What is the best way to attach imitation timber?
There are three main ways to attach boards to sheathing:
- Using clamps. This method is very similar to the one used during the installation of plastic lining. Special fasteners are used that are located inside the groove and are completely invisible from the outside.
- Using self-tapping screws. This method can be recommended if you are thinking about how to attach imitation timber from the outside. The screw caps do not need to be masked. Or you can deepen them and cover them with wooden plugs or putty.
- Using self-tapping screws and nails “flush” inside the groove. In this case, the nails and screws are located at an angle of 45⁰ and are covered with the tenon of the next element.
Houses and cottages made of wood are gaining more and more popularity every year. But there are many ordinary people who do not want to use timber as building material however, decorate the house in style wooden structure would not refuse. In such a situation, the most the best option is an imitation of timber.
How can you imitate timber?
The effect of simulating timber in modern construction is achieved by using a board that has been chamfered and profiled to fit the timber. These are attached wooden panels always horizontal, unlike conventional siding, and allow you to create the effect of a house built from natural wood.
Sanding also helps remove minor defects and stains from the surface of the board and bring its surface to the desired state in which the siding will look as attractive as possible (decorative shine, rich texture, etc.).
How to do it yourself
Before attaching false beams to the facade, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the house. First, the wall must be cleaned and a waterproofing layer applied. Next, you should fix the vapor barrier sheets, which should overlap (approximately 150 mm). It is better to start attaching the sheets from the top of the wall, and all seams and joints must be taped with aluminum tape. 
Having made sure that after the above work the wall has a flat surface, you need to begin installing the sheathing on which the imitation timber will be attached. The sheathing must be fixed in a vertical position, since wooden lining mounted horizontally.
As lathing, it is better to use wooden blocks that have a small cross-section and a thickness equal to the insulation layer (at least 50 mm). Also, a layer of fire-resistant coating and antiseptic will have to be applied to their surface.
In the event that the slats have to be mounted on brick wall, frame dowels should be used as fastening. For wooden walls, nails or screws are suitable.
Between the sheathing bars, mats are inserted from mineral wool or polystyrene foam. If necessary, the insulation is attached to the wall with special dowels. A moisture-proof film is laid on top of the insulation, all joints of which are taped with aluminum tape.
It is recommended to attach another sheathing to the finished structure, the presence of which will allow ventilation between the layer of timber-profiled boards and the wall surface. The thickness of the slats in this case should not exceed 50 mm.
When all of the above work is completed, you can begin installing the lining. Sheathing a house with imitation timber begins, as a rule, from the bottom of the facade, which allows you to direct the tenon of the board upward. This will help prevent moisture from accumulating in the grooves.
A 50mm gap must be left at the bottom and top for ventilation. internal space under the clapboard. There should also be a distance of 3-5 mm between the boards themselves. This will help avoid distortion of the false timber when temperature and humidity levels change due to changing seasons.
The bottom board should be leveled using a building level and only then securely fastened. This is important because it will act as a guide for other components of the cladding.
How to properly attach the lining
In order to reliably and correctly fix a profiled board, you must adhere to several simple principles.
As mentioned above, it starts from the bottom of the wall. After the first board is secured at the bottom with the tenon facing up, the next one is inserted with the groove into the tenon, leaving a gap of several millimeters between the boards.
Attached siding using 3 screws on each side: one is driven in the upper part, the other in the lower part and the third at an angle of 45 ° directly into the tenon itself.
Also, clamps - special metal brackets - are often used as fastenings to imitate timber. They allow you to install the lining without drilling the board itself. That is, the integrity of the material is not compromised. Moreover, the cladding attached to the clamps can be dismantled at any time while preserving the material itself from damage, which is very convenient for finishing works indoors.
Thus, the installation process is simple enough that you can do it yourself.
The desire to build a house from glued or profiled timber does not always coincide with financial capabilities. Imitation timber is a finishing material that can give the facade of a house a look almost indistinguishable from real timber. Installation of imitation timber can be ordered from specialists, but doing it yourself is also not difficult. And saving money will give you the opportunity to buy something useful for your home.
There are many instructions on the Internet with video and photo materials on how to correctly install imitation timber. 
But not all of them are written by specialists and often most of them do not provide a complete understanding of all actions. Today’s article will become an assistant - an instruction for readers who want to finish the facade of a house with imitation timber with their own hands.
Finishing with imitation timber can be done on the facade of a house made of any material: brick, frame wall, foam blocks, etc. But most often finishing with imitation timber is used specifically in frame construction. The walls of the house must be closed immediately after construction, and natural material will not block the circulation of oxygen into the house. The design of the cladding with imitation timber resembles a ventilated facade, both with and without insulation. 
All work takes place in several stages:
- Selection, calculation and purchase required quantity materials.
- Preparatory work.
- Installation of a ventilated facade.
- Coating walls with protective agents.
Each stage must be approached responsibly, otherwise the facade will not be durable and strong. How professionals do their work can be seen in the video:
We select and calculate the material
You can calculate the amount of material knowing the size of the panels: for finishing the facade, take a width of less than 150 mm, for a facade more. Standard width 110-190 mm. As a standard, 135 mm is used, since this is the most popular size and has less knotting. Length from 3 to 6 m. It all depends on the length of the walls from corner to corner. The length must be chosen so that there are as few joints as possible. Companies offer non-standard length and width sizes, but these will cost more.
Calculate required quantity panels of imitation timber is not difficult. To do this, you need to know the length and height of the walls, their number. It must be taken into account that the width of the panel is calculated minus window and doorways, height of the base. It’s easier to make calculations if you draw an expanded plan of the walls.
In addition to the panels, you need to purchase the following components: decorative elements allowing you to completely imitate corner connections beams, external and external corners. They cost more than panels, so calculating them is important for saving.
Don't skimp on fasteners. Installation of imitation timber can be done on metal or wooden sheathing, as well as with the help special fasteners. The sheathing pitch is 60 cm. If the structure will have insulation, then a second sheathing made of material of a smaller cross-section is needed. In each corner there will be fastening on both sides, this is important to take into account when calculating.
Any insulation will do, but it’s easier to install matte insulation yourself. You can also use ecowool or urethane foam, which are more expensive, but the layer is sealed.
You also need to purchase a vapor barrier, with an overlap of 15 cm around the entire perimeter of the house.
Preparatory work
IN preparatory work Do-it-yourself home decoration with imitation timber includes:
- Preparation of imitation timber;
- Preparing the walls.
Preparing panels
Imitation timber panels are sold packaged in sealed film, since they chamber drying and so that the wood does not absorb excess moisture from the air, the manufacturer took care of this. Before finishing the panels, you need to take them out and let them lie for 1-2 days in the environment where they will be used. Otherwise, when exterior finishing panels may increase in size and the finish will become distorted.
The next step is to treat the wooden panels with an antiseptic. It’s easier to do this before installation, and technical locks will be unavailable after finishing. If the panels are not painted, then at this stage you can cover them with the first layer of paint.
Preparing the walls
It is better to level the walls before finishing. This will make it easier to install the sheathing. Before installation, a wooden house is coated with antiseptics, having previously been cleaned old paint. Dirt is removed using an iron brush and spatula. On ventilation grates Metal grilles are installed in the base.
Installation of imitation timber panels
Do-it-yourself installation of imitation timber includes several stages of work:
- Waterproofing walls
- Lathing
- Insulation (for exterior finishing).
- Vapor barrier.
- Installation of panels.
Each stage is important and you shouldn’t skip anything. You can watch the thematic video for more details about each of the stages. The video explains in detail how to perform the work. We will show you how an old, dilapidated house will turn into a beautiful new one; we will tell you about all the tricks in the video below:
Installation of waterproofing
For waterproofing, you can use parchment or plain PVC film. it must be attached directly to the wall. Laying is done with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The joints are glued with aluminum construction tape. For additional strength, it is attached to the wall using double-sided tape or a construction stapler. The waterproofing should not sag, but you shouldn’t put too much tension on it either. When in winter period the house will move, the film may tear. They are afraid that the waterproofing will not come away from the walls; the sheathing will further press down on the foam.
If the wall is flat, it is advisable to use wooden beam square section from 30 to 50 mm. For curved walls it is taken metallic profile with mounting brackets. The sheathing can be attached to wooden walls using 40 mm self-tapping screws.
Typically, the pitch of the lathing depends on the thickness of the insulation, but do not forget that thick imitation timber has considerable weight, so for external work it should not be more than 60 cm. For internal work, it can be 80 cm, as the panels are used thinner, both in width and both in thickness and their weight is less. If the second sheathing is completed, then the first one is mounted horizontally, if not, then vertically. You need to understand that the imitation timber is ultimately mounted horizontally, so you need vertical design under it.
Laying insulation
Warming is carried out only when exterior decoration, this is the main difference with the interior decoration. By doing this stage of work with your own hands, you can move the dew point and the walls will be warmer. The insulation is laid closely between the sheathing. There is no point in leaving unfilled areas. The joints should also be tight.
Insulation can be laid in 1-2 layers, depending on the region and the intended use of the house. The insulation is secured with additional “fungi” or tape. The standard width of matte insulation (mineral wool, glass wool, etc.) is 60 cm, polystyrene foam is 1 m, so it will have to be cut.
Installation of vapor barrier
This layer is important for protecting the insulation, so it is performed only when installing imitation timber on the facade of the house. Laying is done on top of the insulation with the rough side inward. The material must be secured with tape and a stapler. The joints are glued and have an overlap of 15 cm.
Installation of the second sheathing (when finishing the facade)
This lathing with a smaller section of 30x30 mm is needed to create a ventilated façade. This way, condensation will not accumulate and the imitation timber will last longer. You need to attach the sheathing to the first one in the opposite direction using 40 mm self-tapping screws in 60 cm increments.
Panel installation
A guide strip is attached to the bottom of the sheathing using a level. It is important to do this strictly horizontally, otherwise all the material will be beveled when fastened. The imitation timber must be fastened from the bottom up with the locking joints downwards (tenon up). This is done not only because of convenience, but also the specific design of the lock is such that less moisture and dirt will get down there. You should not lay the panels tightly; you need to leave a gap of 2-3 mm, which will allow the material to move. If this is not done, the imitation may be broken later.
The panels can be fastened in several ways, the choice depends on the thickness of the imitation timber:
- The first option is to use self-tapping screws or nails at an angle of 450 into the tenon. But the imitation timber may crack when tightening the self-tapping screw; to avoid this, you can pre-drill holes in the tenons. The fastening step is 60 cm. The advantage of this fastening is that the fastening is not visible.
- Self-tapping screws or nails through the front side. But this method makes the fastening visible; to avoid this, it is done “hidden”. In the imitation timber, holes are drilled to a depth of 5-8 mm with a diameter larger than the hardware head. The twisted self-tapping screw will be deeper than the main surface of the imitation and a plug with PVA glue is inserted into this hole. You can also mix sawdust with varnish and cover up these holes. After drying, the surface is sanded.
- Fastening with clamps. These are special mounts, but use them for heavy facade panels It’s not worth it, as they simply won’t support the weight.
Coating imitation with decorative agents
You can cover the imitation timber with any varnish or wood paint. the only thing for interior works It is better to use natural-based formulations. You can learn more about painting imitation timber from previous articles. If the imitation timber gets very dirty during work, you can pass the trail along the surface with a machine with the smallest nozzle.
By following all the steps of this instruction exactly, you can get a durable and beautiful facade or do-it-yourself interior decoration. But this work is painstaking and requires perseverance. If this is a difficult task, then you should turn to professionals. The cost of finishing work with imitation timber can be seen below.
Price for imitation finishing work
The cost of work depends on several factors:
- The height at which installation is carried out (cladding of the second floor, gables and attic from the outside is 10-15% more expensive)
- Scope of work (installation of all walls per m² is cheaper than one)
- Weight and width of the material.
For the convenience of readers, we present the average cost in the form of a table:
∗The cost of work includes work on slopes and doorways. Material is not included in the price.
Each person decides for himself how to carry out the installation with his own hands or hire specialists. But you should take the work seriously, otherwise the rework will need to be done in 1-2 years.
Today on construction market There is a large number of finishing materials that can be used for both interior and exterior decoration. As great a variety as there is a great gap in product quality. After all, it is the quality and characteristics of the material that determines how work with it will be structured. And the service life of the finish will depend on the quality of the work performed. In order not to go through various options and not waste time on this, the company LesoExchange offers you quality and environmentally friendly pure material, made from the best types of wood, which can be used for interior and exterior decoration various buildings, as well as for construction in general.
We will talk about a very popular option for finishing with imitation timber and its correct fastening. This board gained its popularity thanks to quite the easy way installation, unpretentiousness and, of course, visual effect. To understand this in more detail, let's look at how to work with a board and how to attach imitation timber in different options finishing.
Photo 1. Interior finishing with imitation timber
For interior decoration there are two types of panel installation:
Monolithic- this is when the walls and ceiling are completely covered with panels and a blank monolithic covering is created.
Combined- this is when various parts of the room are finished and combined with other finishing materials that are suitable in style, texture and color.
Photo 2. Wall covered with imitation timber
How to attach imitation timber to the wall?
- Before attaching imitation timber inside the house, be sure to determine the microclimate of the room. This will help you choose the right type of wood. Depending on the characteristics of the species, wood behaves differently in rooms with different temperatures.
- For interior decoration, medium-sized panels are better suited, for example, the width is 140 mm and the thickness is 21 mm. They will not visually “eat up” the room and will allow you to additionally save extra meters.
- Sanding and processing panels is one of the very important stages. This is usually done after installation is completed, but knowing from experience, we recommend that you carry out both grinding and processing at the very beginning. While the boards are not mounted, they can be easily painted on the end sides, which will help to avoid the appearance of untreated cracks on your wall or ceiling during further use, which will affect wear resistance and aesthetic appearance.
- After the panels are delivered to you from the warehouse, they must rest for 7-14 days in the very room where they will be installed. Any tree simply needs to “acclimatize” to new conditions.
- Carefully prepare the walls (ceiling) of the house before attaching the imitation timber. The surface must be smooth, free of dirt and dust. If necessary, they need to be leveled or sheathed sheet material. Then a vapor barrier is attached to the base, without tension.
- Installation of the sheathing is carried out from 30/40 timber, in increments of 50 - 60 cm. If you plan to insulate the room, then you will need a thicker cranial beam. The sheathing is attached perpendicular to the future location of the imitation beam. All sheathing bars must initially be treated with antiseptic solutions.
- Installation of the panels begins from the floor, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm for free circulation of air. Also, when approaching the ceiling, do not forget to leave the same space. This will allow the tree to breathe and change its geometry.
- The board is positioned with the tenon facing up and leveled using a level, which allows you to lay out subsequent panels evenly and easily. It is not recommended to join imitation timber end to end - leave 2-3 mm. When finishing all the walls in a room, it is recommended to lay row by row along the entire perimeter of the room, rather than each wall individually. When performing monolithic finishing, fastening the imitation timber to the wall is done first.
- When laying horizontally, the question often arises - how to join imitation timber along the length? Experienced craftsmen advise cutting boards at an exact 45% degree. The joints need to be filed in different directions. If there are likely to be many joints on one wall, it is better to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. Of course, to be on the safe side and for more accurate joining results, it is better to entrust the undercuts to professional installations in the workshop.
Photo 3. Brushed imitation timber
General process We looked at the installation of imitation timber in great detail using the example of attaching it to the wall. This process applies to all other planes. If you are wondering how to attach imitation timber to the ceiling or how to properly attach imitation timber to the outside of a building, then all of the above information will help you.
Photo 4. Self-tapping screws for fastening imitation timber
There are only a few differences for the exterior decoration:
- outside work is carried out only in the warm season, or if work needs to be carried out in winter, then it is necessary to purchase a ready-made, painted imitation timber, protected from rapid loss of humidity or its gain;
- for external finishing, a layer of thermal insulation is always laid between the sheathing after the vapor barrier;
- The fastening of the panels starts from the ground with the tenon facing up. This will prevent natural precipitation from getting into the joints between the panels.
There are three ways to attach imitation timber:
- "into the face" (front part of the panel). When the self-tapping screw is screwed in using a screwdriver and a specialized bit, it goes straight into the board. This method very reliable and during external finishing, a stand-out element is the screw head, which creates on the panels original design;
- "into the groove". This is when the self-tapping screw is screwed into the groove of the panel, going deep into the wood at an angle of 45 degrees. This method allows you to securely fasten the panel and leave the groove space free, which allows the tenon of the next panel to be freely fastened;
- fastening with (reinforced) clamps. It's pretty easy way in execution, it is very reliable, but carpenters often do not like to do it, believing that using screws will be faster.
Photo 5. Reinforced clamps
If you have any doubts that you will be able to install imitation timber yourself, then our experienced craftsmen ready to help you. We fasten the imitation timber with clamps and professional screwdrivers. We sand with high-quality machines and do painting work in the workshop.
By phone you can find out about the wider range of services that we provide in the field of wood finishing and construction.
Raised timber is a natural finishing material that has many advantages and relatively few disadvantages. One of the arguments in favor of this material is that imitation timber cladding does not cause difficulties even for non-professionals.
House lined with false beams
Imitation of timber is a technique for finishing buildings outside and inside. The material used in it is called false timber, or timber simulator. This cladding panels made of natural wood, a type of lining.
The material is used for cladding walls inside and outside the building, as well as for decorating the ceiling. Panels are also used in frame construction.
False beam
The material differs from eurolining:
- lack of recess on the front side (the so-called shelf);
- large width and thickness;
- maximum resemblance to a wall made of timber, which is why it received its name.
Eurolining
Prices for various types of lining
Facing with false timber has many advantages:
- after finishing, the building looks as if it was made of natural wood, and even a specialist will distinguish the imitation from the original only upon close examination;
- at interior decoration hides uneven walls, allows you to hide wiring and other communications;
- protects walls old building from atmospheric influences;
- has heat-saving and noise-reducing properties;
- creates a comfortable microclimate because it is made from natural materials;
- It is simply mounted on the walls, so its installation does not require special knowledge.
Wood must be well impregnated with insecticides to protect it from pests
Thanks to these properties, false beams are often used for cladding old houses. In this case, the original material of the walls does not matter. These can be foam, gas, cinder blocks, bricks and even rounded logs that need restoration.
But imitation timber also has disadvantages that should also not be overlooked. It is necessary that the material is well impregnated with antiseptics and insecticides. Otherwise, moisture will quickly destroy it, and insect pests can spoil the lining. Treatment should be carried out regularly when the previous layer expires. Detailed data on the validity period of the composition are indicated in the instructions for the drug. It will also be necessary fire protection, because the natural wood burns well.
Form of false beam
Unlike a convex blockhouse, with which false beams are often compared, it has a flat surface. Chamfers are cut along the edges at an angle of 45°. After connecting adjacent planks, barely noticeable seams remain, but not the same as with eurolining. Rather, they resemble “calm” lining.
Block house on the cut
From the back side cut out from 1 to 3 ventilation ducts, which run along the entire length of the beam.
Reference. Previously, domestic enterprises produced wood planking without these grooves. This led to the fact that over time the timber became severely deformed due to temperature fluctuations, swelled, and cracks formed in the wood. The wood was susceptible to rotting due to excessive exposure to moisture.
The false block has the same lock as other types of lining
The edges of the lamellas have a spike on one side and a groove on the other. This connecting elements timber. The tongue-and-groove lock solves several problems at once:
- makes the cladding windproof;
- increases sound insulation properties;
- strengthens the skin.
Prices for various types of false beams
False beam
How to choose false timber?
When choosing false beams, pay attention to the following characteristics:
- size;
- type of wood;
- variety.
Raised beams are classified according to grades, sizes, wood species
Dimensions
The timber is produced in different sizes, which allows you to choose the most suitable option for your purposes:
- length - 2.5–6 m;
- width - 1.10–18.5 cm;
- thickness - 1.6–3.5 cm.
For exterior finishing, wider boards are used.
Block house prices
Block house
Which tree species are better?
False beams are made from different breeds trees.
The timber is produced in different sizes
Conifers
This is one of the most popular tree species in home decoration. The most accessible products are made from pine. Spruce is also used, but the tree is quite knotty, which is a disadvantage, although it is more resistant to moisture. The advantage of the latter is its uniform color. Therefore, on spliced beams, the seams are hardly noticeable. Pine, unlike spruce, turns yellow over time.
However Angara pine already belongs to premium types of wood. She has high density, there are almost no knots in it. The same can be said about Altai cedar. The timber made from it has a beautiful pattern. But a much more significant plus is strength and weather resistance.
Photo 9. False timber made of pine
Larch remains the leader in wear resistance and consumer characteristics. It is especially often used for external cladding. After all, its resin contains natural antiseptic substances. Because of them, the wood is not susceptible to rotting.
Hardwood
Linden, oak - a couple of trees from which false beams are most often made. However, their uses are different. Linden is most often used to decorate saunas and baths, since it does not have the necessary strength. Moreover, under the influence sunlight it takes on a yellowish tint.
The best performance characteristics has oak. In terms of hardness, it is second only to ebony. In addition, it is resistant to all atmospheric influences.
Aspen is used to imitate timber, but quite rarely. Its core is susceptible to rotting. Therefore, they only make thin lining out of it. It is used for covering steam rooms.
Linden and aspen are often used for baths and saunas
An analogue of false beams is a block house - an imitation of rounded logs.
When choosing false timber, you need to consider where exactly it will be used. Larch and cedar are not suitable for bedrooms and children's rooms. They give quite Strong smell. This can cause headaches and worsen asthma. In summer cottages you can use inexpensive pine and spruce. Panels made from these materials are also suitable for the bedroom. In the living room it is better to use oak and cedar.
The lighting of the room also matters. If the lighting is dim, then light types of wood are suitable - pine, linden. For southern rooms choose darker oak and alder.
Variety
Table 1. Types of false beams
| Variety | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Extra | Smooth surface, no growth, rot, or wormholes. Knots are only embryos, no more than one per linear. m. End cracks of 30x0.5 mm, tar cracks of up to 20x3 mm, as well as wane and non-string, which are not visible during assembly, are allowed. |
| A | There are no falling knots, no signs of rotting or damage to the wood by insects. Healthy knots - no more than 35 mm. There may be growth, tar marks, cracks at the end, chips on the ridge and bottom of the groove, blue, but not more than 10% of the surface and 10% of the batch. It may be difficult on the reverse side |
| B | There should be no rot, dead knots up to 10 mm. No more than 3 wormholes per panel (no more than 5% in the party). Porosity, tar patches, and wane hidden after installation are not considered critical. Blueness and fading (up to 10% coverage), as well as poor color underneath, are not considered defective. |
| C | There may not only be dead knots, but also holes. Longitudinal cracks up to 30x3 mm are acceptable. Boards with wormholes, sprouts, resin pockets, rot, which does not affect the hardness of the board. The category does not exclude planing defects in any part and invisible wane. Used only under opaque coatings. |
Reference. Extra grade products are extremely rare on the market. Usually sellers pass off grade A as extra.
AB category products
Masters identify another intermediate class - AB, although they do not set standards for this category. Boards of this class are opened with varnish, wax, and paint.
How to install imitation timber on the facade of a building
Installation of false beams is carried out in several stages.
Video - How to install imitation timber
Preparing the base
Regardless of what material is used for the construction of the building, the foundation is prepared according to the same scheme:
- Removed from work surface the remaining solution is cleaned of dust.
- Make a waterproofing layer. The materials used must match the building material of the wall. For brick and concrete, coatings or impregnations are used, for wood - films. The canvases are secured from below. When changing the canvas, make an overlap of at least 15 cm wide. Glue the individual canvases with tape.
Walls are protected with waterproofing agents
The preparatory process is now complete. If coating and impregnating materials are used at this stage, the work will have to be postponed for some time. This is necessary for the solutions to act or set. Exact time drying, penetration deep into the building material are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.
Lathing
This is the frame to which the false beam will be attached. The lathing consists of individual bars with a side of at least 5 cm. It is recommended to select lumber depending on the thickness of the heat insulator.
If the wall is originally brick or concrete, frame dowels will be required for fastening; for a wood base, nails and screws will be required. Craftsmen do not recommend using fasteners with plastic dowels.
On flat wall the sheathing bars are attached closely to it. If there are irregularities and gaps form, the voids are filled with linings.
Attention! Linings must be made of synthetic materials, not wood. This material tends to dry out. There is a possibility that during the operation of the finish, a backlash will form and its quality will decrease.
- The guide bars are positioned and secured in the corners, strictly observing the vertical, for which a level is used.
- Stretch the cord from one corner to another and secure it to the corner bars.
- The remaining beams are fastened and maintained at a distance of 50-80 cm, which depends on the width of the sheet of heat-insulating material.
- Lay thermal insulation.
- A moisture-proof film is laid over the sheathing.
Often slats up to 3 cm thick are attached to the sheathing. This is necessary so that an air gap is formed between the heat-insulating layer and the false beam. This measure enhances ventilation and extends the life of the wood finish.
Fastening false beams
Before installation, the wood for cladding is removed from the packaging. They do not take the material to work immediately, but wait several days. This way the timber will absorb moisture from the air, so no distortions will form after installation.
Different types fasteners and methods of their use
Install the panels from bottom to top. One of the fasteners is used:
- Using a self-tapping screw, the board is attached to the sheathing through the ridge. Sometimes the screw goes directly through the board. Then it is inserted so that the head is flush with the face of the beam. The recess is then hidden with putty or wooden plugs, sawdust and varnish.
- A galvanized nail is driven into the ridge. At vertical installation it is also passed through the groove, hammering at an angle of about 45° until the head disappears.
- Claymer is a reliable and convenient fastening clip consisting of a bracket. One end is located on the sheathing, the other holds the panel by the groove. The gluers themselves are nailed to the base with galvanized nails.
The false beams are fastened in the following order:
- Place the starting board with the ridge up using a horizontal level and attach it using the selected fasteners. The tenon cannot be directed upwards - this will cause water to collect in the groove. This causes cracks to appear on the board, mold to form, and the wood to rot.
- Place the tongue of the second board in the groove of the first. Using a hammer, plant the second board, but not closely, but with a gap of 5 mm. This distance is necessary to avoid deformation of the elements due to temperature fluctuations.
- Repeat steps 1, 2 until you reach the top.
After installing all panels, the surface is coated with the selected product.
Attention! In the corners of the beams, cuts are made at an angle of 45° for an aesthetic connection of parts. Decorative strips can also be applied. They not only hide the joints, but are also a decorative detail in the cladding.
Installation of imitation timber indoors
The installation of timber indoors is almost the same as on the façade of a building. If the panels are laid vertically, then work begins from window to door. Interior panels are too thin. Therefore, the fastening method, in which a self-tapping screw is screwed into the tenon at an angle of 45°, is considered too rough. For such work it is recommended to use furniture nails.
Pros and cons of imitation timber
Perhaps the most difficult thing is installing panels on the ceiling. Since a large load on the hands is created, for such work it is recommended to take materials with the smallest width. In addition, too wide a beam will visually reduce the ceiling area. The length is chosen so that there are fewer joints.
In stone buildings, insulation is placed on vapor barrier material. IN wooden houses such material should not be used, as it will only provoke the formation excess moisture and will lead to wood rotting.
Decorative overlay to the corner of the building
The procedure for installing timber to the ceiling
Some houses already have ceilings wooden beams ceilings In this case, there is no need to do the lathing. It is enough to use a vapor barrier layer.
But sheathing will still be required if the beams have uneven surface. In other cases, first, base bars with a thickness of 2-3 cm. Next, you need to protect communications if they pass along the ceiling. Then the ceiling is insulated if there is a need. Next, work is carried out as when installing external finishing. The beam is mounted from the window.
False beam on the ceiling
Raised beam protection
Before installation, the material is processed protective compounds. Insecticides are used for this. These preparations protect wood from the most dangerous pests- bark beetles, shashel, longhorned beetles, etc. Treatment against mold, mildew, as well as fire retardants is necessary. The sequence in which treatment must be carried out is indicated in the instructions for the preparations.
Transparent coatings
To protect wood from moisture and other harmful effects, opaque coatings are used - for example, wax-based oils, varnishes.
Oil-wax has some advantages over varnishes:
- the product does not emit toxic substances;
- can even be used in a children's room;
- allows the tree to breathe;
- does not spoil the structure of the tree;
- penetrates deep between the fibers and protects the boards from the inside;
- Contains no aggressive solvents.
This coating can be tinted and give the wood a darker shade.
Working with wax is easy and safe
As for varnishes, any are suitable for street work. For domestic purposes, it is better to choose products from water based. Its heat resistance will not be superfluous, especially with increased risks of fire.
Video - Waxing wood
Known and home recipe wax coating. To prepare it you will need:
- beeswax - 9 parts;
- carnauba wax - 1 part;
- turpentine (gasoline can be used) - 90 parts.
Considered the safest for painting timber linseed oil, gum turpentine, colophon resin, better known as rosin.
Rosin - natural remedy for wood protection
Prices for wood preservatives
Impregnation for wood
How to apply wax to timber
Work on applying wax is performed in the following order:
- Repair cracks and imperfections. If necessary, level the surface of the timber with a grinding machine or sandpaper.
- Wipe the surface, remove debris and dust.
- Wax-oil is applied with a brush. Excess is removed with a dry, lint-free cloth.
- Allow the composition to dry.
- Polish the surface with a piece of cotton cloth.
Opaque coatings
Opaque coatings are also suitable for painting. Such products provide protection, but at the same time they also hide the imperfections of the material. These include enamels, water-dispersed and acrylic paints. Before painting with such products, the wood is treated with a primer - for example, drying oil. This will reduce the consumption of paint and varnish products.
Imitation of timber is an easy way to make your home attractive and extend its lifespan. At correct installation and subsequent proper care, the cladding will last for many years.
