Hi all! Many radio amateurs, after making their next craft, are faced with a dilemma - where to “shove” it all, and so that later they would not be ashamed to show it to people. Well, let’s say with buildings at the moment, it’s not that big of a deal. a big problem. Nowadays you can find many ready-made cases on sale, or use suitable cases for your designs from some radio equipment that has failed and disassembled into parts, or use building materials in your crafts, or whatever comes to hand.
But to give, so to speak, a “marketable appearance” to your design or to make it pleasing to the eye, at home, is a problem for more than one radio amateur.
I will try here to briefly describe how I make front panels for my crafts at home.
To design and render the front panel, I use free program FrontDesigner_3.0. The program is very simple to use, everything becomes clear immediately while working with it. It contains a big library sprites (drawings), it is something like Sprint Layout 6.0.
What are the most accessible ones for radio amateurs now? sheet materials- this is plexiglass, plastic, plywood, metal, paper, various decorative films And so on. Everyone chooses for themselves what suits them best in terms of aesthetic, material and other conditions.
How I make my panels:
1 - I pre-think and arrange in place what will be installed on the front panel in my design. Since the front panel is a kind of “sandwich” (plexiglass - paper - metal or plastic) and this sandwich needs to be somehow fastened together, I use the principle of how it will all be held in place and in what places. If fastening screws are not provided on the panel, then only nuts for fastening connectors, variable resistances, switches and other fasteners remain for this purpose.
I try to distribute all these elements evenly on the panel, for reliable fastening of all of them. components between each other and fastening the panel itself to the body of the future design.
As an example - in the first photo, I circled the mounting points of the future power supply in red rectangles - these are variable resistances, banana sockets, a switch.
In the second photo, the second version of the power supply, everything is similar. In the third photo next option The front panel includes LED holders, an enconder, sockets, and a switch.
2 - Then I draw the front panel in the FrontDesigner_3.0 program and print it out on a printer (I have a b/w printer at home), so to speak, a draft version.
3 - I cut out a blank for the future panel from plexiglass (also called acrylic glass or simply acrylic). I buy plexiglass mainly from advertisers. Sometimes they give it away anyway, and sometimes they have to take it for money.
5 - Then, through these punctures, I use a marker to make markings on the acrylic (plexiglass) and on the body of my future design.
6 - I also make markings on the case for all other existing holes on the panel, for indicators, switches, etc....
7 - How to attach an indicator or display to the front panel or body of the structure? If the body of the structure is made of plastic, then this is not a problem - I drilled a hole, countersunk it, installed countersunk screws, support washers for the display (or tubes) and that’s it, the problem is solved. What if it’s metal, and even thin? It won’t work like that here, you won’t be able to get a perfectly flat surface under the front panel this way and the appearance won’t be the same.
You can, of course, try to seat the screws with reverse side body and with thermal glue or glued with “epoxy”, as you like. But I don’t like it so much, as it’s too Chinese, I make it for myself. So I do things a little differently here.
I take countersunk head screws of suitable length (these are easier to solder). I tin the screw fastening points and the screws themselves with solder (and flux for soldering metals), and solder the screws. On the reverse side, it may not be very aesthetically pleasing, but it is cheap, reliable and practical.
8 - Then, when everything is ready and all the holes are drilled, cut and processed, the panel design is printed on a color printer at home (or at a neighbor’s). You can print a drawing where photographs are printed; you must first export the file to a graphic format and adjust its dimensions to the intended panel.
Next, I put this whole “sandwich” together. Sometimes, so that the variable resistance nut is not visible, you have to slightly saw off its rod (grind off the shaft). Then the cap sits deeper and the nut is practically invisible from under the cap.
9 - Here, look at some examples of the front panels of my designs, some of which are also shown at the beginning of the article under the title. It may not be “super-duper”, of course, but it’s quite decent, and you won’t be ashamed to show it to your friends.
P.S. You can make it a little simpler and do without plexiglass. If color inscriptions are not provided, then you can print the drawing of the future panel on a black-and-white printer, on colored or white paper, or, if the drawing and inscriptions are in color, then print it on a color printer, then laminate the whole thing (so as not to the paper quickly became tangled) and glue it to thin double-sided tape. Then the whole thing is attached (glued) to the device body in place of the intended panel.
Example:
An old one was used for the front panel printed circuit board. The photographs show what the initial design was like and what it looked like in the end.
Or here are a couple more designs where the front panel was made using the same technology
Well, that’s basically all I wanted to tell you!
Of course, everyone chooses for themselves the paths available to them in their creativity, and in no case do I force you to accept my technology as a basis. It’s just that maybe someone will take it, or some of its moments, into their arsenal and simply say thank you, and I will be pleased that my work was useful to someone.
With respect to you! (
After purchasing a new computer or upgrading an old one, a situation often arises that the computer case itself no longer meets certain requirements. This includes the noise level, installation of new parts or an additional power supply, cooling. And all these innovations cannot fit into your old case, or the temperature level simply rises to prohibitive limits. And you begin to look for the most affordable solution to the problem: buying a new case or making it yourself, on your own. This article will look at an example of how to make a computer case with your own hands or improve it. If necessary, you can watch video instructions for making the case, for example:
As you know, when choosing a computer case you need to think not only about appearance, although the original approach is non-standard solution are also important. First of all, you need to clearly understand that the case is an integral part of your PC, and not just a beautiful box on the table or under the table. The design of the case must be approached with knowledge of the matter. First you need to find out what types and types of cases there are, their differences and functionality.
Today, only four main types of PC cases are known. There are, of course, many extraordinary solutions, but more on that later. Each of these types has its good and not so good sides, so it is impossible to say for sure which one is the best. Just read their advantages and disadvantages so that you have something to base your design on. Or if you decide that self-production If you cannot afford it, then the criteria by which you can buy a suitable high-quality case from the manufacturer will be clear to you.
There are vertical (tower) and horizontal (desktop) versions of the cases. Vertical enclosures usually allow you to install large quantity drives and all sorts of other devices, and horizontal ones are more compact.
The first type of case we'll look at is called Small Form Factor.
This type of case is distinguished by its compact dimensions. It is especially convenient for office computers, or for a home PC if you do not need a particularly powerful system. The dimensions of this case are very small (about 25x25 cm), which allows it to easily fit into any interior and take up minimal space. Such cases have a big disadvantage; such miniaturization requires suitable “filling”, small sizes details. It is no longer possible, for example, to insert a modern powerful video card or processor into such a case. In addition, small dimensions can cause cooling problems; components can overheat, causing system failures and breakdowns.
The second type of case is called Mini-Tower Form
Such a case can already be used for a fairly powerful office PC, or for a home media center. Such cases, as a rule, are initially equipped with power supplies with a power of 400W or more. In such a case you can assemble good system with a dual-core processor, install a powerful video card, but many modern components for this option will have to be selected on a “mini” basis. Another inconvenience is the need for monthly dust cleaning.
The third type of case is called Moddle-Tower Form
This type of case is the most popular and widespread. In such a case you can easily fit a good ventilation system, several powerful video cards, and add additional hard drives. This case is well suited for those who are not limited by the size of the system unit. This type of case is difficult to fit into the interior, but it provides good system performance and will satisfy the requirements of even avid gamers.
The fourth type of case is called Big-Tower
It is very rare to find such a case as a home PC. It is noticeably larger than all the others, and its height reaches at least half a meter. This case can not only accommodate about five good video cards or hard drives, it is suitable for creating servers or a computer that controls other computers in the office. This case allows you to place in it good ventilation, which will save the computer from overheating. Thus, Big-Tower is ideal for the most advanced users who work in the field of IT technology and particularly demanding gamers.
The first point that you need to pay attention to when selecting or designing a case is whether it is sufficient inner space. It is necessary to determine whether you can place devices there for the necessary cooling of the system unit and installation of fans. It is necessary that air circulate freely inside the case, thereby ensuring the cooling of all parts. Pay attention to the power of the power supply unit (PSU) located in the case or purchased separately. It should be sufficient for the planned PC system. You should also pay attention to the location of the power supply in the case. With large power supplies, you need to think about cooling it. The power supply only needs to cool itself.
For optimal cooling and low noise levels, the power supply can be placed in the following configurations.
In the circuit, with the upper location of the power supply, we get the following advantages:
- Quite low noise level (19 dB) when installing a 430 W power supply, ARX FD1212-S2142E 12V 0.36A 2400 rpm fan;
- The temperature of the elements increases slightly (+3 degrees in the power supply unit and +1 degree in the case);
- Standard location;
- Free air outlet.
This design can be assembled approximately as in the photo below.
The SilverStonetek company has launched the production of cases with a bottom-mounted power supply.
The advantages of this design are:
- The power supply serves only to cool itself;
- There is no need to remake the power supply;
- Low center of gravity for PC case.
The disadvantages include: excessive fan noise and difficult air access to the power supply fan.
The material used to construct the enclosure is primarily aluminum or steel, although many homemade enclosures are made from wood or plexiglass. The advantages of an aluminum body include a light weight And good heat transfer. But such a case bends easily and scratches are common. The cost of aluminum cases is higher than steel ones. The steel body is more reliable and durable. All parts in such a case will be reliably protected. In addition, steel dampens vibrations better, which reduces the noise of the computer.
When considering different design solutions cases, it is important to first determine what connectors and interfaces you will need now and in the future. Many of possible options, for example, you don’t need a thermometer built into the speakers, but others simply need it. Here you need to decide for yourself what design and construction to choose, based on the above. And don't forget about originality...
DIY computer case
So, you decided to make a homemade computer case. This case should allow you to install any possible components, provide quick access to them and provide good cooling. Housing options are already possible that provide: almost complete noiselessness, high performance, the ability to increase computing potential, and ease of maintenance. True, such a case cannot be made compact.
The computer case can be made of wood using the technology given below.
The diagram shows the location of the main components and the circulation of air flows.
Working drawings of such a building can be downloaded. http://www.easycom.com.ua/downloads/skvorechnik_001.zip
Or look at the picture below.
The computer case is assembled from six walls and one transverse shelf in the middle part. The upper part of the case will house the motherboard, processor fan, video adapters, and the lower part will house all the drives, floppy drive, card reader, hard drives and power supply. It was decided to equip the lower part with only one fan of size 120x120x25 mm, since there will be only one element that needs forced ventilation- This is the power supply. For normal cooling of video cards and the processor, you must install at least three fans with a standard size of 120x120x25 mm in the upper part. They are ideally placed on the front wall of the future case.
The choice of housing material is determined by your capabilities. Plexiglas or acrylic are quite expensive. Iron sheets, from which it is theoretically possible to make the same case, are unacceptable, as they will greatly increase the weight of the case. Already with a sheet thickness of only 2 mm. The manufactured case will most likely exceed 40 kg. Moreover, the metal is difficult to process and its cost is also quite high.
In our version, chipboard will be used to make the body. This sawdust, pressed into sheets measuring 2660x1660x16 mm (W.D.H.) and impregnated with special glue.
The body parts are marked according to the drawings provided and cut out. There is nothing complicated about this, and you can order it from those who make furniture. If you decide to cut out the blanks yourself, then you will need necessary tool: jigsaw and wood saws.
You should end up with something like this. Finish the edges of the workpieces well sandpaper.
When all the blanks are made, you can begin assembling the body itself. It is necessary to connect and secure the parts according to the drawings. A homemade computer case in a partially assembled form will look something like this.
For the reason that the front panel will be used not only as an “air intake”, but on it there will be power buttons, restart the computer and all the main indicators ( hard drives and the entire system), they must be embedded in wooden panel. It is necessary to make holes for all ports, power and reset buttons, and indication LEDs. Everything must be done carefully and strictly in size.
LEDs cannot operate directly from the motherboard connector; they must be connected to it in series with a resistance value of 480-500 Ohms and a power dissipation of 0.25 W. All these parts can be purchased at any radio store. The wires for connecting buttons and LEDs to the motherboard are soldered into the Q-Connector, which comes with ASUS boards. Heat shrinkage is used as an insulating material. This is a tube made of a special material (polyvinyl chloride) that can change its geometric shape(diameter) when heated. In practice, a piece of such a tube is put on a wire, soldered to another and the piece of tube is moved to the soldering site. After which it is warmed up a little with a lighter. After this, the tube tapers around the soldering area and forms good insulation. The shrinkage rate reaches up to 30%.
This means that if the diameter of the tube is 6 mm, then when heated it will change its value to almost 4 mm. Such a tube can also be bought in any radio stores, and the price is only 2-4 UAH per meter. It is advisable to use such an insulating material to carry out all work related to the installation of wires for the manufacture of this housing.
On back wall The housing is equipped with connectors for input and output of power from a ~220 V network and an illuminated power switch.
Should be paid Special attention choice of fans for the case. They must meet aesthetic requirements, since they will always be in plain sight. After all, the front panel is the one that gets the most attention. You need to choose the quietest fans that suit your performance. Therefore, options such as “grill” grates were immediately eliminated.
The Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm Red Pattern fan or similar is well suited for this solution. His choice was determined not only technical characteristics, which can be the envy of many fans. This fan operates at a speed of 1500 rpm and the noise level generated is not higher than 17 dB, which is characterized as extremely quiet. Another advantage is its unique animated lighting.
However, you can choose a more “advanced” model from this series of fans, Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm Logo Fan. In this model, as in Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm Red Pattern, there are no various animated emblems, but the Thermaltake logo is “written”, the approximate temperature of the passing air is shown (built-in temperature sensor), and the relative noise level that the fan creates is also displayed.
All these fans are mounted on the front panel using wood screws approximately like this:
To avoid the problem of bending the motherboard PCB, which occurs due to the rigid mounting of the cooler without a special pressure plate, you need to replace this pressure plate with something. You can select felt of the required thickness (about 7-8 mm) and cut out a square with dimensions slightly larger than the holes for mounting the cooler of the Socket LGA 775 processor socket. If you look at the height of the stand for mounting the motherboard, the felt is 1-2 mm higher than it, which gives the necessary rigidity when bending the textolite of the mother board. Felt can be purchased at many construction stores or “from hand” in the markets. The cost of such a piece will be approximately 5 to 20 UAH.
At the very end of the entire rough machining of the body, everything must be done required holes in the motherboard shelf, through which power wires, cables for hard drives, floppy drives, etc. will pass. First, you need to temporarily screw the motherboard into place and mark and sign with a marker all the locations of the connectors. Then, using an electric drill and a file, all these holes are made.
Homemade computer case with outside The easiest way is to cover the body with self-adhesive tape. This material is made of thick paper or special rubberized oilcloth. Color solution limited only by your imagination or the assortment of the store (from pure white before various photo wallpapers). This self-adhesive tape is sold in rolls. linear meter. There are two types of roll widths: 450 mm and 550 mm. The cost depends on the complexity of the design and width and is usually in the range of 11 – 22 UAH per linear meter. For the manufacture of this case, a shiny black “self-adhesive” was chosen. After making calculations based on the drawings, it was determined that five meters of “self-adhesive” would be needed to cover the entire body.
A different material will be used to process the cutouts, double sided tape with a foam base.
It is necessary as a seal in places where vibrating components (hard drives, drives) come into contact with the walls of the case. The foam rubber from which the strips are made, 14-18 mm wide and 2 mm thick, is very soft in consistency and compresses to 0.5 mm, while also having the ability to spring. All this is very good for the seal. The presence of an adhesive substance on both sides allows this seal to be firmly secured, and individual components to be secured with its help.
All that remains is to make a “basket” for mounting all the drives, hard drives, floppy drive and card reader. Using a standard “basket”, which is installed in serial cases, is difficult and inconvenient due to the non-standard arrangement of the installed devices. You can use a piece of plexiglass 4 mm thick for these purposes. You won't need much of it, about a meter per meter. The cutting of such material is carried out using a manual grinder or grinder. It is not difficult to do all this work. Then you need to drill the required holes in the workpieces. Pretty plexiglass brittle material, and sometimes crumbles if handled carelessly. To drill a hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm in it, you need to perform this operation in three or four passes, starting with a drill with a diameter of 1 mm and ending with a 3.6 mm one. You must remember to drill out a “socket” for the bolt head to hide it. To do this, you need a drill of the same diameter as the head. All drives, floppy drives and card reader are secured using the same double-sided tape seal.
To prevent hard drives from transmitting their vibration to the basket, thereby increasing the noise level, you can secure them with four erasers.
When all these operations are completed, you can assemble the body. The assembled lower part of the case, with the “basket”, hard drives, drives, card reader, floppy drive and installed unit food looks something like this:
When fully assembled, this case will look like this:
A homemade computer case after testing the computer showed good performance temperature regime. The cost of a homemade case turned out to be significantly lower than specialized Middle Tower or Full Tower cases. In order to make a computer case with your own hands, you only need certain skills in working with a soldering iron and a special tool.
In this article I want to talk about how you can make fairly good and high-quality cases for various, both small and large electronics. In general, I was inspired to make a case by the prices of factory cases. Aluminum and metal cases are obscenely expensive, especially if they are medium and large sizes, and even the plastic ones are not cheap. But I found a way out, so to speak, made an analogue of such cases as in the photo below, and then got excellent result I will continue to make such cases in the future.
For the basis of my body I took a segment profile pipe size 100*50 mm, with a wall thickness of 3 mm. I just needed a case of this size so that it would effectively dissipate heat due to its mass and area. But now you can buy a profile pipe of any size, for example, for small electronics there are 40*20 mm pipes with a wall thickness of 2 mm, and other sizes are also available everywhere, and most importantly, it’s all quite cheap. And you don’t need anything special to make it; it’s enough to have a drill or screwdriver to drill holes, and cut it as needed using a grinder. Below in the photo is what I got,
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The case consists of five main parts, dimensions 180*100*50 mm. The body itself is a piece of profile pipe of the required length, I cut it at 18 cm. I cut two side covers from the same profile pipe. They are held together by four pins that run through the entire body; they go through the corners and do not interfere with placing electronic parts inside. So that the back of the controller would not be pressed against the wall during installation and there would be a gap for good cooling, I cut a 20*20 mm profile to form two L-shaped strips, which I screwed on the sides. Below in the photo are parts of the body, cut out with an ordinary small grinder.
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Side covers are attached to studs
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After manufacturing, the body was painted with spray paint; before painting, I went over it with sandpaper, but did not prime or degrease it, although it is very advisable to do this so that the paint does not come off and peel off later.
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Below is the video from which the photos above are posted.
In general, in this way you can make any housing for various electronics. The metal case has good heat dissipation, is durable, but really heavy and is more suitable for stationary use.
