How to insulate the floor on the first floor - 5 proven methods

The centuries-tested folk wisdom that says that you need to keep your head cold and your feet warm is more relevant for owners of housing on the ground floor than for anyone else. These people know firsthand what the consequences can be if you don’t insulate the floor in time. The ineradicable smell of dampness, constant colds in children and general discomfort in the house are just some of these problems. In this article, I decided to dwell in detail on how to properly insulate floors on the ground floor in a city apartment and in a private house.

Suitable types of insulation

In principle, any insulation for the floors of the first floor can be used. Here you need to look at your financial capabilities, professional skills and, of course, the basis for which the material is chosen. Insulating the first floor floor in a wooden house is one thing, but installing a concrete slab in a city apartment is quite another. I selected the most popular materials and combined them into a table.

Type of insulation	Advantages	Flaws
Mineral wool slabs (slag wool, basalt wool)	Low thermal conductivity; Easy installation; Affordable price; High density with good elasticity; Absolute fire safety; Environmentally neutral.	High hygroscopicity; The need to install sheathing.
Foam boards	Low thermal conductivity; Easy installation; Low price; Light weight; Possibility of use in damp environments; Environmentally neutral.	Polystyrene foam is afraid of rodents; In case of fire, it emits caustic and quite harmful gases.
Extruded polystyrene foam boards (Penoplex)	Low thermal conductivity; Easy installation; Ability to withstand large mechanical loads; Light weight; The material is an absolute waterproofer; Environmentally neutral.	High price. Penoplex is 2 – 3 times more expensive than penoplast; Burns when exposed to an open flame and emits corrosive gases.
Expanded clay (bulk material, is porous granules of baked clay)	Absolute environmental cleanliness; Low price; Absolute fire safety (fired clay does not burn); Low thermal conductivity.	Expanded clay is able to absorb moisture; The weight of expanded clay, although not much, is higher than that of slab insulation.
Solution from sawdust mixed with cement	Environmental cleanliness; Minimal cost; The material is considered fireproof if the proportions are properly observed.	Afraid of high humidity; Thermal conductivity is much higher than that of modern slab insulation; Relatively heavy weight.
Liquid insulation. (Polyurethane foam and penoizol)	Environmental neutrality; Light weight; Not afraid of moisture; Low thermal conductivity.	High price; Liquid insulation cannot be applied with your own hands; they require the involvement of third-party specialists.

Subtleties of insulation installation

Since the wooden and concrete bases are quite different in their characteristics, the methods for arranging them will therefore be different. Further, in order not to lump everything into one “heap”, each instruction will be considered separately.

Method No. 1. Insulation of floors from below

The concrete floor of the first floor in multi-apartment city buildings from below, in the vast majority of cases, borders on an unheated, and often even wet, basement. Therefore, I am convinced that work should begin with insulation in the basement. By doing this, you will completely cut off the access to moisture and make your floor at least half warmer.

It’s not worth spending money on some exorbitantly expensive materials here; ordinary polystyrene foam is quite enough. Insulation thickness in in this case starts from 50 mm. As far as I have seen, in basements the ceilings are not covered with anything, it is an ordinary reinforced concrete slab. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is blow out all the cracks around the perimeter of the ceiling and on the ceiling itself, especially between the floor slabs;
The concrete slab itself is smooth; naturally, the adhesion of such a coating is quite low. To increase it, we will need to walk along the ceiling with deep penetration soil;
Then everything is simple. We take polystyrene foam boards and glue them to the ceiling. As an adhesive, you can use the same mounting foam, construction adhesive “Liquid Nails” or dry mortar Ceresit CT83. Personally, I like Ceresit better. After the glue has completely set, the remaining small gaps between the plates will need to be filled in again with polyurethane foam.

If you glue it onto polyurethane foam, then take into account the fact that it expands greatly, so every 15 - 20 minutes the slabs will need to be pressed against the ceiling. Typically the expansion lasts about an hour and a half.

Some craftsmen prefer to install polystyrene foam on the ceiling in the basement in 2 layers, offset relative to each other. Explaining this by saying that the result is a more dense monolith, without gaps. I think this is unnecessary. More precisely, in the case when it is mounted facade insulation at home, this measure is justified, but in the basement it is a waste of material, time and effort.

For an ordinary dry basement this will be quite enough. But if there is water in the basement, then I recommend additional waterproofing of the ceiling. This procedure is also inexpensive.

You will need to take Liquid Nails glue or something similar, apply it with a spatula to the foam and cover the ceiling with technical polyethylene. So that the polyethylene does not fall off before the glue sets, it can be shot in places to the foam with a stapler.

Experts' opinions on whether it is necessary to install so-called external insulation of the subfloor in wooden houses, diverge. Personally, I think that it definitely won’t get any worse. This way you will not only insulate the subfloor from below, but also protect the wood from dampness.

You need to act according to the technology described above. Only here it makes sense to fix the polystyrene foam in addition to the glue on the rough subfloor layer with plastic dowels-umbrellas. This is due to the fact that wood is a living material, and when it begins to “walk”, the sheets may come off.

Method No. 2. Installation of insulation with sheathing

For a novice master, this method is considered one of the easiest and most understandable. The only problem is that the thickness of such insulation starts from 50 – 70 mm. Therefore, in apartments with low ceilings, this can become a problem.

Work begins with preparing the concrete base. The old coating, if there is any, must, of course, be completely torn off and everything thoroughly cleaned down to the concrete. After this, all cracks and cracks will need to be caulked. This can be done using putty or the same polyurethane foam;
Any concrete base will need to be covered with a layer of waterproofing. For an apartment, too much protection is not required, especially if you have already lined the ceiling with foam plastic in the basement. Here it is enough to cover it with one layer of technical polyethylene. But only polyethylene should be laid with an overlap along the entire perimeter of the walls. From the start I make an overlap of about 10 - 15 cm, the excess is then cut off;
The basis of the sheathing is wooden blocks. Their thickness is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. The bars are usually laid parallel to the short wall of the room in increments of about half a meter. For fixation, anchors or self-tapping screws with “quick installation” dowels are used. I usually fix at intervals of no more than 1 m, the support bars won’t go anywhere anyway;

Next comes the installation stage of the insulation itself. If the basement is not insulated from below, then the thickness of the insulation starts from 50 mm. But for mineral wool slabs the minimum is 100m. Sawdust filler cement mortar, expanded clay and other bulk insulation materials should be taken at least 150 mm. Only dense foam, penoplex and liquid modern insulation materials(polyurethane foam, penoizol) can be laid with a thickness of 50 mm;
If you approached the matter thoroughly and first insulated the ceiling in the basement, then all these dimensions can be safely divided in half;
Polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected or cut precisely according to the size of the gap between the support bars. In such a way that the slabs fit end to end. Slabs of dense mineral wool should be a couple of centimeters wider than the gap between the bars. They will press down slightly on the sides and you will get continuous, dense insulation;

The top layer of such insulation can be covered with a tongue-and-groove floorboard with a thickness of 30 mm or more. If you are planning a top finishing coating, such as laminate, linoleum or parquet, then it is better to use plywood or OSB sheets. Moreover, under the laminate, one layer of sheets with a thickness of 12–16 mm is enough, and under linoleum or a package you will have to lay sheets of 10–12 mm, in a double layer with a shift between the layers.

Method No. 3. Insulating the floor in a wooden house

Insulating the floor of the first floor in a wooden house is partly reminiscent of the option using wooden sheathing. Everything in wooden houses interfloor ceilings, including on the first floor, are made of two layers.

The design is based on massive wooden logs. From below it is hemmed with a layer of subfloor, and on top, of course, there is a finishing coating. As you probably already guessed, we will have insulation in the middle.

When the bottom rough coating is hemmed and all the wood is impregnated protective compounds, you can begin installing the waterproofing layer. Unlike the apartment version, waterproofing the subfloor in a wooden house is done more thoroughly. Moreover, it is laid not only on the subfloor, but also wrapped on top of the joists, in a solid monolithic layer;
If you choose technical polyethylene, then it is covered in 2 layers and secured with a stapler. Ruberoid or modern roll waterproofing can be mounted in 1 layer, but they sit on bitumen mastic, which in turn is also a good waterproofing agent;

In a wooden house there is already enough to burn, so in most cases preference is given to non-combustible materials. The most popular now are dense slabs of basalt wool. Depth of wooden joists, even in the lungs country houses take at least 150 mm. Accordingly, basalt wool is laid either in one layer of 150 mm, or in two layers of 75 mm, always with a shift between the layers;

Expanded clay is deservedly considered the second no less popular material. This is folk a budget option. According to the rules, expanded clay should be poured a couple of centimeters below the finished floor, that is, the top cut of the lag. But I always recommend falling asleep from the start bulk insulation flush with the joists. In any case, over time it will shrink and you will get that same ventilation gap;

Expanded clay is produced in the three most popular fractions. Sand has a diameter of up to 5 mm, the diameter of gravel does not exceed 2 cm, everything that goes beyond this is called crushed stone. So, in order for the insulation layer to be more dense and monolithic, before backfilling you need to mix expanded clay gravel or crushed stone with expanded clay sand in a 1:1 ratio.

As I already indicated in the table, mineral wool and expanded clay are hygroscopic materials. Therefore, such insulation in wooden houses will need to be covered on top with a layer of vapor barrier or simple polyethylene. This is especially true for country houses with seasonal accommodation. Otherwise, in a periodically heated room, the insulation will quickly become saturated with moisture and lose its properties;
The last stage of arranging insulation, as usual, is the installation of the finishing coating. In permanent wooden houses, tongue and groove floorboards are often used. In light country houses, plywood or OSB is installed, and what is available is laid on top.

Method No. 4. Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is a special modern material, and its use is worth talking about separately. Honestly, I think that as insulation for the floors of the first floor, this material is close to ideal. There are several variations of it; in our great power it is better known under the brand name “Penoplex”.

The uniqueness of penoplex lies in the fact that, in addition to all other characteristics, it is absolutely impervious to water, and most importantly, it has a serious reserve mechanical strength. Penoplex is now used to insulate highways and airfield runways.

I have already mentioned that it can be laid in the sheathing, although, in my opinion, this is too expensive. In the case of lathing, it is quite possible to get by with dense sheets of foam plastic weighing more than 30 kg/m³. By the way, they are at least 2 times cheaper. There, after all, the lion's share of the load falls on the support bars.

Penoplex showed itself best in two cases. This is used when installing laminate flooring and as insulation under the screed. Thanks to the grooves located around the perimeter of each sheet, this flooring is installed quickly and completely airtight.

If you already have an insulated basement, then you can safely use sheets of extruded polystyrene foam about 30 mm thick. Even in harsh climates this will be enough. The preparation of the base is the same everywhere. Theoretically, you don’t have to lay a layer of waterproofing under the penoplex, but it won’t be a mistake if you play it safe and cover the room with polyethylene.

The insulation sheets are connected to each other through grooves, and these grooves are additionally glued with any suitable glue; there is now more than enough of this in the markets;
As you know, laminate is installed using floating technology, that is, it is not rigidly connected to the base. Therefore, next we cover the insulation with a foamed polyethylene backing and then lay our laminate on it.

Penoplex has one weak point; it can easily carry large loads only if they are evenly distributed over the entire plane. The material may not withstand point pressure. The laminate, in turn, ensures an even distribution of this load.

By the way similar technology you can equip the base under linoleum or piece parquet. A layer of penoplex is also laid there, a thin foam substrate is laid on it, and OSB is installed instead of a laminate to evenly distribute the load. Here, sheet thickness up to 10 mm is sufficient.

As I already mentioned, Penoplex is almost the best option for insulating the screed. Moreover, the screed can be either a regular cement-sand screed or a modern self-leveling one.

The arrangement technology here is also quite simple. After laying the waterproofing and a layer of penoplex, a metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top. Reinforcement that is too thick for an ordinary apartment should not be used. I usually take wire with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm;
After all, the thickness of the screed itself often does not exceed 20 mm. It's only on large areas, sizes from 50 – 70 m² concrete screed made up to 40 mm thick;
If you are going to use a cement-sand mortar, you will need to first secure the beacons, and then lay the reinforcement between them. The easiest way to fix beacons is with a stapler. When everything is ready, the solution is thrown on top and leveled according to the beacons using the rule;

A self-leveling screed is generally a “song”; you don’t need to have any special talents or skills to install it. There are instructions on the package to prepare the mixture. Then this mixture is poured onto a layer of reinforced penoplex and slowly helped to level it out using a needle roller.

Important: Penoplex can only be installed on a flat floor. Minor, smooth differences in height within 3 - 4 mm are allowed.

Method No. 5. Insulation using dry screed

The so-called dry screed is used exclusively for insulating the concrete base. In terms of cost, it is cheaper than many of its competitors. The basis there is an expanded clay mixture (sand - gravel).

The point is to level the loose base as evenly as possible along the horizon. After that, a rigid monolithic flooring is mounted on it using floating technology. OSB sheets, waterproof gypsum plasterboard or thick, about 10 mm plywood are often used as flooring.

It is quite difficult to perfectly level loose expanded clay without skill. Therefore, I recommend first installing support beacons on the floor.

There is no point in digging into solid concrete with self-tapping screws. It is quite enough to plant beacons on alabaster pyramids. After this, you simply fill the room with expanded clay mixture and distribute it as a rule among the beacons.

Sheet flooring is installed in 2 layers, as usual, with a shift between the sheets. Such installation will not be difficult; you can safely drive self-tapping screws through there; they will not harm the expanded clay cushion in any way. And note that such flooring is called floating because it is not rigidly attached to anything. The gap between the wall and the flooring is left within 10 mm.

Conclusion

Now you know how to properly insulate floors on the first floor. In the photos and videos in this article I have included related information on the topic of floor insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

The apartment on the ground floor is located above the basement, from which concrete slab ceilings, dampness and cold penetrate into the room. High humidity bad smell, fungus and uncomfortable floor temperature - residents face these problems every day until they decide to insulate the concrete base.

We insulate the floor from the basement side

External thermal insulation of the base is always effective and does not take up space in the room. In the common basement, you need to determine and mark the area of your apartment. In damp conditions, moisture-resistant insulation is used - expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam. The layer thickness for warm regions is 10 cm, for cold regions - 15 cm. Thermal insulation occurs using the following technology:

Foam boards are attached to the concrete ceiling basement
To protect the material from rodents, a metal mesh is laid and secured with plastic dowels.
The foam is covered with polyethylene film for waterproofing. As a replacement for moisture-resistant fabric, which can be damaged, bitumen coating insulation is used.

Mineral wool can be used as insulation, but more effort will be required. It is necessary to secure the lathing under the material, lay waterproofing and cover everything with moisture-resistant plywood.

Thermal insulation of concrete subfloor

The fight against penetrating cold begins with sealing the cracks in the base. To seal them, polyurethane foam is used; it can be used to treat the joint between the floor and the wall. Thorough waterproofing will allow you to get rid of dampness in an apartment on the ground floor. At high humidity the entire floor area is covered with coating or penetrating insulation. After this, a polyethylene film 200 microns thick is spread. The edges of the canvas should extend onto the walls to a height of 15-20 cm. The film is laid with an overlap of adjacent strips of 10-15 cm, the joints are sealed with construction tape.

There are several ways to insulate the floor in an apartment:

concrete screed with insulating additives: sawdust, expanded clay, perlite;
laying thermal insulation material along the joists;
dry screed for gypsum fiber panels;
use of polystyrene foam boards under concrete;
heated floor system.

Arbolit or lightweight concrete made from a mixture of cement and wood fillers - affordable and quality option thermal insulation. It is environmentally friendly, durable, non-flammable and durable. The disadvantage of insulation is that the floor is raised by 10 cm and the drying time is up to 25 days.

Using joists for thermal insulation will also raise the base. The work is carried out in stages:

Wooden blocks are laid on the waterproofing layer in increments of 50 cm.
Insulation is placed between the guides - expanded clay with a layer of 10-12 cm or mineral wool 10 cm thick. The material is laid tightly, the gaps between it and the logs are filled with polyurethane foam.
A polyethylene film is laid for vapor barrier. It is fastened with staples, the joints are taped with special tape.
A subfloor made of boards or plywood is laid.

A dry screed, which does not require time to dry, will allow you to insulate a concrete floor in a short time. Fine expanded clay or sand is poured onto the spread waterproofing and the rock is distributed even layer 5 cm and compacted. Placed on insulation moisture resistant drywall in two rows or special “KNAUF superfloor” panels, the thickness of which is 20 mm. The sheets are glued together and treated with putty. The coating has low thermal conductivity, protects against noise and moisture, is safe and does not require wet processes. Parquet, linoleum, laminate are laid on gypsum fiber.

Expanded polystyrene has high density and strength, it will become reliable and warm base for the floor. The slabs are placed staggered so that the load is distributed evenly. The joints between them are covered with polyurethane foam. The material is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with a layer of cement screed 5 cm high.

Installation of a heated floor system - best option for an apartment on the ground floor, it will rid the room of dampness and at any time increase the temperature of the coating to a comfortable level.

Here you can install a water, electric or film floor. The system is laid on a base insulated with polystyrene foam. A foil material is laid under it, with the reflective side facing the room. Water and electric cable floors are laid under the screed, and infrared film is placed under the finishing coating.

How to insulate a wooden floor?

Wood has less thermal conductivity than concrete, but on the ground floor it also seems cold and damp. Before removing the covering boards, you need to select insulation. Usually basalt wool is used, it retains heat well, absorbs noise, does not rot and does not attract rodents, and is safe in case of fire.

Expanded clay is a natural bulk material for thermal insulation; it is light in weight and affordable, and is quick and easy to install. You can use expanded polystyrene, the material is durable, resistant to moisture and stress, but its cost is higher than other insulation materials.

The process of insulating a wooden base consists of several stages:

The boards are removed and inspected; if they are in good condition, they are returned to their place after all work has been completed.
Processing in progress wooden joists antiseptic.
A waterproofing sheet is spread, extending up to 20 cm onto the walls. All joists are wrapped in film.
Rolled basalt wool is tightly laid out between the bars or expanded clay is poured. The height of the insulation does not reach the top of the joists by 5 mm.
The laid material is covered with a vapor barrier film to prevent moisture from the apartment from getting on it.
The tongue and groove boards are nailed to the joists.

By correctly insulating the floor in your apartment, you will forget about moisture and cold for a long time.

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We insulate the floors with our own hands in an apartment on the 1st floor

The floor surface is one of the coldest in the apartment, especially on the first floor of the house. This is due to the characteristics of concrete, the severity of cold air and the fact that there are cracks in the floor through which cold from the basement penetrates into the apartment.

Heat loss through the surface of floors can account for up to a third of all thermal energy. To avoid this, high-quality thermal insulation is necessary. It is quite possible to do it with your own hands.

Options for thermal insulation materials

Materials suitable for floor insulation must have sufficiently low thermal conductivity. Most of these materials can also insulate the room from noise.

The most popular options are:

Mineral wool- an inexpensive material, effective both as insulation and sound insulation. Cotton wool is very easy to install, fireproof, and resistant to biological contamination. However, it absorbs water very easily, which is why good waterproofing is required. In addition, this material can release glass particles into the air, which can cause allergies.
Expanded polystyrene and other types of foam - polymer materials that are resistant to moisture and fire. They do not deform, do not allow heat to pass through, and absorb noise.
Bulk materials– expanded clay or wood shavings. They have excellent thermal insulation properties and can form a leveling layer when constructing a dry screed.

All these materials are good in their own way; the choice is based on operating conditions. Whichever material is more convenient is the one worth using, there is not much difference between them.

Wood floor insulation

When insulating floors in an apartment on the first floor wooden house thermal insulation material is usually placed in the spaces between the joists on which the decorative coating.

Insulation of wooden floors in an apartment occurs as follows:

Dismantled old material coverings.
A vapor barrier is laid - usually a simple polyethylene film. The film strips are laid overlapping and secured with tape. The film must be applied to the walls so that the edges eventually protrude above the surface of the finished floor. They can be trimmed later.
Insulation is being installed. If bulk material is used, it is poured between the joists, using them as beacons for leveling the insulation using the rule. Other types of thermal insulation are rolled out close to the joists, avoiding even the slightest cracks.
If absorbent cotton wool is used, it is additionally covered with another layer of film to protect it from moisture on all sides.
Leveling slabs of plywood or gypsum fiber sheet are attached to the joists on top of the insulation. You can skip this step and lay it straight away floorboard.
Any type of decorative covering can be installed.

Insulation of floors on concrete base

Most often, the floors of the first floor of a panel apartment building are structures made of reinforced concrete slabs. Concrete itself is a porous material that conducts heat well, which is why it remains cold in almost any conditions.

In addition, floor slabs are almost never joined tightly enough to prevent air from passing through the cracks. As a result, a lot of heat flows into the basement from the first floor.

Screed

One of the most common methods of thermal insulation is laying insulation under a cement screed with your own hands. The insulation of the screed is carried out in this way:

The old coating is removed down to the base. The old screed is also removed.
Floor slabs are repaired if necessary, and joints are sealed. Then the surface is thoroughly cleaned of debris and remnants of the old screed, and vacuumed with a construction vacuum cleaner.
Waterproofing is being carried out. A thick film is laid over the base. The edges of the material need to be placed on the walls. The edges, overlapping each other by 10 cm, are secured with adhesive tape.
The selected insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. Sheets of expanded polystyrene and unwound rolls of glass wool should lie close to each other.
The insulation is covered with an additional layer of film.
A reinforcing mesh is placed on the insulation. It is needed in order to increase the strength of the screed.
The cement-sand mixture is poured. The thickness of the screed must be at least 50 mm at its highest point, otherwise during operation it may become covered with cracks and begin to crumble.
The surface of the dried screed is covered with two layers of primer for final leveling, strengthening and clogging of pores in the concrete.
The finishing coating is laid on the finished screed.

Dry insulation on joists

The process is similar to insulating floors in an apartment on the first floor of a wooden house, with the only difference being that in this option the logs will have to be installed on a reinforced concrete base with your own hands.

Insulation along the joists is carried out as follows:

The concrete base is cleaned of old coating, screed and debris.
The floor is waterproofed. To do this, you can use bitumen or polymer mixtures, applied with a brush or roller, like paint. Less efficient, but cheaper and quick way– lay plastic film.
Wooden logs are installed a meter apart from each other, no more, so that the floors do not sag. These logs can also be used as beacons for filling expanded clay. It is important to ensure that the upper edges of the joists are in the same plane.
The chosen one fits heat insulating material. The insulation should be installed close to the joists, avoiding any gaps.
Formed flooring from plywood, gypsum fiber sheets or fiberboard. The thickness of this layer should be about one and a half centimeters. To do this, the material can be laid in two layers, so that the slabs lie crosswise and the joints do not coincide. The sheets are fastened with glue and self-tapping screws.
Any type of finishing coating can be installed.

Spray insulation

Another way to ensure thermal insulation on the ground floor is professional insulation thin layer polyurethane foam. It forms a seamless polymer surface about 7 cm thick on the floor.

The polymer is applied using special equipment that delivers the material in the form of an aerosol under high pressure. In just a few seconds the substance hardens and turns into durable foam. In terms of its effectiveness, such insulation is superior to all other methods.

In addition, polyurethane foam does not need waterproofing. The service life of the material is estimated at tens of years.

Alternatives

If the heat loss in the apartment is insignificant, you can not lay an additional layer of insulation, but simply use a finishing coating with a fairly low thermal conductivity index. For example, carpet insulates the floor of the first floor quite well. Carpets with long pile have even better insulation properties.

Another option is to use linoleum on a thick base of jute or felt. In the same way, you can insulate the floor by laying parquet with your own hands. You just need to use a backing made of warm material– cork, polyethylene foam or polystyrene foam.

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Do-it-yourself insulation of the first floor floor

A significant amount of heat can escape from the building through the ground floor floor. To minimize heat loss, and at the same time reduce the cost of heating a house, you need to perform high-quality and proper insulation surfaces.

Insulation of the first floor floor

There are several ways to implement the task under consideration. At the same time, to create a reliable thermal insulation layer, you can use different insulation materials. Familiarize yourself with the features of the most popular materials, choose the most suitable method and proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

Comparison of insulation materials

Popular thermal insulation materials and their features

On modern construction market presented big choice materials whose characteristics and properties make it possible to use them for insulating the floor of the first floor. Each insulator has both a number of advantages and a certain list of weak qualities.

Mineral wool

Types of mineral wool by density

The most popular material for insulation various designs is mineral wool. Among its main advantages are:

The main disadvantage is poor resistance to moisture, against which there is a need to install a high-quality waterproofing layer, otherwise the insulation will collapse very quickly.

Comparative characteristics of different types of mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced in the form of slabs and mats, which makes it possible to choose the most convenient option for a particular situation.

Styrofoam

Physical characteristics of foam plastics

No less popular thermal insulation material. Advantages:

low thermal conductivity;
small thickness and relatively light weight;
strength;
durability;
resistance to mechanical damage.

Unlike mineral wool, polystyrene foam does not require such serious moisture protection.

Foam plastic PSB-S-15

If you have a sufficient budget, you can even buy foamed polyethylene. During the production process of this material, its surface is covered with aluminum foil, eliminating the need for additional waterproofing.

Foil foam

Ecowool

It is a cellulose-based insulation with various additives that help improve its fire-resistant and environmentally friendly characteristics. The structure is a bulk material. Ecowool is very easy to install - just pour it into a pre-assembled sheathing and cover it with flooring.

Comparative assessment of some types of insulation

A significant disadvantage of ecowool is its low resistance to moisture. Under its influence, the material very quickly loses its performance properties and collapses.

Ecowool does not burn

Ecowool floor insulation

Fiberglass

This insulation is rapidly gaining popularity. Basic performance characteristics fiberglass is beyond praise. The material is excellent for insulating the floors of rooms located on the ground floor. Also among the advantages of fiberglass is its affordable price.

Choosing a method for arranging a thermal insulation layer

Before starting thermal insulation measures, you need to study not only the properties of the most popular insulation materials, but also become familiar with the features of their arrangement. Depending on the structure, materials are classified into:

bulk;
solid. This category includes roll insulation, as well as thermal insulation materials in the form of mats and slabs;
liquid.

Loose thermal insulation

It is performed using the already mentioned ecowool, as well as the following materials:

slag;
crushed foam;
sawdust

Bulk materials are convenient because they can be used to insulate even the most hard to reach places. The method is equally effective both in private houses and in apartments on the ground floor.

However, despite its effectiveness, bulk thermal insulation is not widely used, because more modern and easy-to-use insulation materials are available on the market.

Solid thermal insulation

Types of mineral wool by density

Rolls, slabs and mats are most often used for insulation. Such materials have a relatively small thickness - on average up to 100 mm, so the living space when using them is reduced insignificantly.

Typical representatives of the category are mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Mats made from natural plant fibers are also gaining wide popularity.

Liquid thermal insulation

Not a very common, but very effective method. The following materials are used:

The quality of such thermal insulation is in no way inferior to slabs, mats and roll materials. However, to spray the compositions it is necessary to use special equipment, which is not in the best possible way is reflected in the cost of work.

Options for floor insulation and instructions for their implementation

Floor insulation options

The procedure for insulating the floor of the first floor will vary depending on whether there is a basement or basement below.

If there is a basement

Floor insulation

If there is a basement or basement in the house, thermal insulation work should begin there. First, you must insulate the walls and ceiling of the basement. Secondly, before insulation, surfaces must be properly waterproofed. Otherwise groundwater leak through the walls and destroy the insulation.

If you do not want to dismantle the floor or intend to create the highest quality thermal insulation, use a method whose essence boils down to insulating the basement ceiling.

First step. Lay out and secure the moisture-proof film. Lay strips of film with a 10-15 cm overlap. Be sure to seal the joints with tape.

Second step. Nail the sheathing strips to the waterproofed surface. Select the width of the slats and the spacing of their placement in accordance with the parameters of the insulation used.

Ceiling waterproofing

Third step. Place slab or roll insulation in the space between the slats. To fix the thermal insulation, use wire or stuff cross slats.

Fourth step. Nail the flooring elements (boards or OSB) to the slats.

Ceiling insulation

After insulating the basement, you can proceed directly to insulating the floor.

First step. Lay the joists and attach the skull blocks to them.

Lay the joists and attach the skull blocks to them

Lay wooden boards or OSB on the fixed bars. The flooring should be such that there are no even minor gaps at the joints of the elements.

Second step. Cover the flooring with waterproofing film.

Third step. Place the selected insulation on top of the film. Nail the support joists to the base.

Laying thermal and waterproofing

Fourth step. Make another deck from OSB or boards. The gap between the flooring and the insulation should be about 10 mm.

Floor insulation algorithm

If there is no basement

If there is no basement or plinth, the work of insulating the floor will be easier and faster. If there are no mentioned premises, then the floor, as a rule, is located directly on the ground or on the foundation.

In such a situation, the insulation sequence will be as follows.

First step. Remove flooring, if present, to gain access to the foundation or soil. If the floor is made on the ground, carefully level the ground.

Second step. Spread expanded clay onto the base in a 10-15 cm layer. This backfill will provide additional thermal insulation.

Place expanded clay on the base

Third step. We lay the reinforcing layer. An ordinary chain-link mesh will provide the necessary rigidity. Place it on the base.

Reinforcement

Beacons under screed

Fourth step. Make a new tie.

Fifth step. Cover the hardened screed with moisture-proofing film.

Sixth step. Nail the sheathing battens to the base.

Seventh step. Place the selected thermal insulation material in the space between the slats.

Insulation of concrete floor

Eighth step. Install the deck boards and complete the finish to your liking.

Insulation option using a floor heating system

This technique is not insulation in the literal sense of the word, but it allows you to make the room much warmer. The system can be electrical (film, cable) and water.

Types of underfloor heating systems

The easiest to install is a film infrared heated floor. To install it, you simply need to level the base, lay out the film in the required places and connect the system to electricity. The screed is not poured. The key advantages of such a system are the ability to install it under any finishing coating and ease of installation. The disadvantage is the relatively high cost.

Infrared heated floor, installation

Cable flooring is also relatively easy to install and can be combined with most varieties of existing flooring finishes. There is no need to make a screed. The main disadvantage is the high cost of operation.

Cable heated floor

Water heated floors are the most popular. This system is the most economical. It requires preliminary arrangement of waterproofing of the base, laying special mats (it is best to use slabs with so-called bosses, since in this case you will not have to use additional fasteners) and subsequent pouring of the screed.

Technology for laying water heated floors

Warm water floor

How to make a warm water floor

Thus, a wide variety of materials and techniques can be used to insulate the floor of the first floor. Now you are aware of the features of each affordable option and you can make the best choice.

Good luck!

Video - floor insulation above a cold basement

Video - Insulating the floor of the first floor

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How to insulate the floor on the first floor? Various ways to insulate the floor in an apartment

As is known, warm air tends to rise upward, as a result the floor remains the coldest place in the apartment or house. This especially applies to the first floor, under which there is often a basement or subfloor. In our article we will talk about how to insulate the floor on the first floor and more.

The most reliable way to protect against the cold is to use insulation, which can be in the form of blocks, rolls or bulk materials. When deciding on the best way to insulate a floor, you must choose between cost, thermal insulation properties and durability of the material.

Insulation of the basement space

Builders don't really care about airtightness when laying floors. Gaps most often remain in the basement space. You can even see them from the basement. The first thing to do is to seal the cracks in the ceiling. Small holes can be filled with putty from below. In a private house, insulation boards can be glued to the floor from the bottom side.

Polystyrene foam assembly adhesive is suitable here. How to make an insulated floor from below so that the slabs do not lag behind? To do this, they are additionally secured with parachute dowels, and the joints are foamed.

The obvious advantage of this method is that there is no need to break anything. Everything will remain as it was, and the house will become warm.

Insulation of a wooden floor

The old floorboard can be replaced with a new one. If it is in good condition, then the floor is carefully disassembled. In this case, you need to mark the boards so that you don’t waste time and effort on adjustment later. This is especially true for half-floors. Disassembly is done in order, so that you can put it back together in the same way. The nails are removed carefully so as not to damage the boards. When assembling the floor, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws, which create stronger connections and are easy to remove.

Before insulating the floor on the first floor, the cracks on top must be carefully sealed using polyurethane foam, putty and cement-sand mortar. The joists should be checked with a level and further strengthened. Otherwise, the floorboards will continue to creak as before. Construction stores sell racks that are screwed into joists and rest against the ceiling. They can also be made from steel studs.

The floor slabs are tightly laid with mineral wool, which should extend onto the walls. A budget solution is to use mats made of straw or sawdust, but they decompose over time. You can also use expanded clay, foam chips or slag. In principle, any insulation is suitable if it fulfills its functions. A layer of vapor barrier is laid underneath the ceiling to prevent moisture from accumulating, which will significantly deteriorate the properties of the insulation.

How to insulate a floor with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

If the floor is covered with ceramic tiles or cement screed, it can be insulated using thin sheets of polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.

Fiberboard and GVL plasterboard are also used. But their thermal insulation properties are much lower.

A layer of vapor barrier is placed on the concrete floor, and a layer of insulation and polyethylene film are placed on it. Then a screed made of cement or a special mixture is laid on top. It must be reinforced with mesh. To compensate for temperature fluctuations, an edge strip is laid around the perimeter of the wall. A new floor covering is installed on top: tiles, parquet, laminate or linoleum.

Insulating underlay for linoleum

The problem of how to insulate the floor on the first floor can be solved by in a simple way due to linoleum with a backing. It is the most common, cheap, easy-to-install and maintain coating. It is enough to cut it correctly and insert it under the baseboards.

The material consists of layers of patterned PVC, fiberglass and a backing, which is often used as foamed PVC. The same material on both sides prevents the coating from deforming when the temperature changes.

There is also insulation for linoleum floors. It represents the bottom layer, which can be made of jute or fabric.

Additional backing for linoleum

If the coating does not have the necessary protection from the cold from below, then additional substrates are used under the main coating: cork, linen and polystyrene foam. The cork is good insulation, but it can also be used as an independent coating. Regular plywood or fiberboard also have thermal insulating properties, but the effect will be much greater if an additional layer of expanded polystyrene is placed under them. Insulation for floors under linoleum is best laid under plywood or fiberboard.

This is done as follows:

an insulating underlay is laid on a dry and level floor;
plywood is laid and secured to the floor with self-tapping screws;
Linoleum is covered on top and the edges are hidden under a plinth, which protects the substrate from water penetration.

This method is used in rooms with high ceilings.

How to connect a heated floor

Heated floors make it possible to create uniform heat in the room. It is a heating system located under the covering, which gives the most favorable temperature distribution in the room along the height.

The problem of how to insulate the floor on the first floor using electric heating, can be solved in one of the following ways:

Infrared film coated with polymer can be installed under any floor covering. It does not require pouring screed.
A resistive cable whose power varies with temperature. It heats cold areas more, and warm areas less. It requires pouring a screed.
Carbon fiber rods mounted on a fiberglass mesh can be filled with ordinary tile adhesive.

After installation, you need to know how to connect the heated floor. This requires a thermostat to which a heating cable is connected. All connections should be made according to the instructions, carefully following all steps.

Water heating is carried out using pipes with circulating hot water. They are laid under the floor or filled with screed. Heating is carried out through copper, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes, which are connected to the space heating system.

Floor heating can be distributed in such a way that individual areas are connected. To do this, a manifold with control valves is placed at the top.

Conclusion

Floors can be insulated by installing heat-insulating materials, used separately or as a backing for floor coverings. Thermal insulation panels at the bottom of the floors are especially effective. When installing them, there is no need to disassemble the floor above. In addition, you can install a heated floor system, which can be autonomous or part of the home heating system.

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How to insulate the floor in an apartment on the first floor with your own hands

How to insulate the floor in an apartment on the ground floor is a question that faces not only owners of private houses, but also residents of the first floors of multi-apartment residential complexes.

After all, cold floors in an apartment mean not only discomfort and the possibility of frequent colds, but also additional energy costs for heating rooms in which active heat loss occurs, because there is no floor insulation in the apartment on the first floor.

Types of thermal insulation materials

To understand how to insulate the floor on the first floor with your own hands, you need to choose the insulation with which this activity will be carried out. There is a huge amount of thermal insulation materials on the construction market, the use of which is possible and even necessary for insulating the floor of the first floor. These materials can be divided into the following types:

The choice of insulation for insulating the floor of the first floor is influenced by the design of the building, which is determined by the presence or absence of a basement and the type of ceiling of the first floor. It can be concrete or wood.

Thermal insulation of concrete floors

Start insulation by installing waterproofing

Concrete flooring is one of the most used types due to its strength, reliability and durability.

But concrete is a material that does not retain heat, and in the presence of cold temperatures outside the room it even contributes to the transfer of cold inside, therefore any structures made of this material require thermal insulation work.

Therefore, insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor in a building with a basement must begin with waterproofing. The process of insulating the floor of the first floor with your own hands involves performing the following operations:

Work must begin with preparing the foundation. Disassemble the old floor structure. Inspect for cracks, chips and other damage to the concrete base. Identified defects must be repaired with a solution and then treated with a special impregnating composition intended for these purposes.
Then a waterproofing device is made, which can be used as an ordinary polyethylene film.
Logs are laid out according to the marks, which are then attached to the concrete base.
Next, the insulation is installed. The bottom layer can be made of bulk materials, which then must be covered with any other type of insulation.
The thermal insulation material is covered with a waterproofing film on top, which should prevent moisture from gaining access to the insulation.

Insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor at this stage enters the finishing works, the implementation of which will no longer be affected by the selected floor thermal insulation scheme.

Thermal insulation of floors over wooden floors

Insulation is placed between the joists

If there is an overlap of wooden flooring Do-it-yourself insulation of the floor of the first floor is carried out in the following sequence:

dismantling the existing coating with checking and assessing the condition of the load-bearing structural elements;
installation of new logs or partial replacement of old ones and laying insulation between them with a preliminary installation of a waterproofing layer;
Next, a covering of chipboard, plywood or floorboard is also placed over the waterproofing layer.

The wooden floor itself has good thermal insulation properties, but for better and more comfortable living in such a house it is necessary to insulate it.

External insulation

To save heat great importance has external insulation of the house. It can be done in the basement with your own hands, if such an opportunity is provided, that is, there is access to the ceiling.

The insulation can be glued to the ceiling by sealing the seams and joints with foam.

The table shows the thickness of insulation for thermal insulation of the floor of the first floor, depending on the structure of the building and the air temperature.

The basement door also needs to be insulated using expanded polystyrene or mineral wool and polyurethane foam. To learn how to insulate the floor of the first floor, watch this video:

Insulating the floor of the first floor will help create warmth and comfort in both private and panel house, and will also eliminate heat loss through the underground and reduce financial costs for heating the house.

From the author: Hello, dear reader! The heat in the room directly depends on high-quality coating floor. Therefore, when starting to make repairs, first of all, think about how to insulate the floor in an apartment with your own hands. We can bet on repairs on installation additional sources warmth and new windows, but this may not be enough.

If the floor covering is defective, all the heat will go into interpanel joints, corner cracks and basement or the floor below. If you love your neighbors, then this is justified, but if you are the owner of an apartment on the first floor, then this is quite unreasonable, you will agree.

Important: high-quality flooring will retain up to 30% of the heat in your apartment!

Insulation from the basement

One of the options for solving the problem of insulation in a home on the 1st floor - thermal insulation of floor slabs in the basement.

Important: Before carrying out work in the basement, coordinate all work with the Housing Office.

There are several ways to insulate the floor covering on the basement side:

insulation or . Sheets are attached to the concrete base using liquid nails, and the gaps between them are filled with polyurethane foam. For better waterproofing, we glue the mounting polyethylene film onto the insulation, making a small overlap (up to 15 cm);
spraying polyurethane foam. Despite the high cost, this option is durable, has high thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture, and is heat-resistant.

Important: insulation concrete floor from the basement will not solve the problem of retaining heat in your apartment, but will only help strengthen the thermal insulation with outside premises, to avoid dampness and mold.

Insulation methods

Let's look at a few budget ways using materials with high thermal insulation properties:

Wood-shaving insulation.
Mineral materials.
Polymer: polystyrene foam, penoplex, expanded polystyrene.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages, but initially you must decide on the functionality and size of the insulated room and your financial capabilities.

Insulation of a wooden base

Most traditional way insulation - This is the laying of thermal insulation material in the space between the joists. Before insulating a wooden floor, decide on the further course of work and outline the installation diagram for logs and beacons.

Source: http://pol-master.com

Important: After preparing the flooring and installing the joists, lay a layer of vapor barrier, extending it 5 cm onto the wall.

Source: http://pol-master.com

Now you can lay the selected insulation between the joists and cover it with another layer of vapor barrier. You can start installation wooden planks, thick plywood, OSB/GVL sheets and finishing coating.

Bulk materials

Wood-based materials are considered to be of the highest quality and easiest to use. These include the following types of insulation:

ordinary sawdust/special mixtures: sand+cement+sawdust+lime;
plywood - involves two laying layers with different thicknesses (1st layer - up to 8 mm, 2nd layer - up to 12 mm) and mandatory gaps between the sheets to prevent shrinkage and creaking of the floor;

Source: http://teplo.guru

Chipboard is the most easy way insulation of concrete floors, optimal sheet thickness - 20 mm;
ecowool is a high-quality, environmentally friendly, but expensive insulation material. There are several methods of application between joists: laying with special equipment and manually filling with dry mixture. Note that when laying by machine, material savings can be up to 40%.

Source: http://www.nashpol.com

Mineral insulation

How else can you insulate the floor? Consider use case mineral materials, such insulation materials include:

mineral wool;
cement-based building mixtures.

Mineral wool is considered the most popular material for insulating housing on the 1st floor and attic spaces. It has excellent soundproofing and fireproof characteristics, is not subject to deformation from temperature changes, mold infections, and is vapor-tight.

Expanded clay is a clay-based thermal insulation material with an affordable price range and a high degree of environmental friendliness of its components, but it still has disadvantages. Unlike mineral wool, it has high moisture permeability and fragility.

Important: To improve the performance of expanded clay, it is practiced to use it with cement mortar. Such a screed not only increases the thermal insulation performance, but also increases the strength and water resistance of the coating.

Polymer materials

The use of polymer materials in insulation is gaining popularity. Quality, availability and a large selection on the construction market allow you to immediately begin installation. Note that the process of installing polymer materials is extremely simple and even beginners can do it!

Among polymer materials it is worth noting:

penoizol - liquid polymer material with a foamed structure;
polystyrene foam and its improved form - polystyrene foam (excellent for concrete floors);
polyurethane foam - liquid insulation, applied by spraying up to 10 cm thick;
Penoplex is a modernized version of polystyrene foam.

Today, penoplex is becoming more and more popular. Let's figure out how to properly insulate a floor with penoplex.

Options for thermal insulation materials

Materials suitable for floor insulation must have sufficiently low thermal conductivity. Most of these materials can also insulate the room from noise.

The most popular options are:

Mineral wool- an inexpensive material, effective both as insulation and sound insulation. Cotton wool is very easy to install, fireproof, and resistant to biological contamination. However, it absorbs water very easily, which is why good waterproofing is required. In addition, this material can release glass particles into the air, which can cause allergies.
Expanded polystyrene and other types of foam - polymer materials that are resistant to moisture and fire. They do not deform, do not allow heat to pass through, and absorb noise.
Bulk materials– expanded clay or wood shavings. They have excellent thermal insulation properties and can form a leveling layer when constructing a dry screed.

All these materials are good in their own way; the choice is based on operating conditions. Whichever material is more convenient is the one worth using, there is not much difference between them.

Wood floor insulation

When insulating floors in an apartment on the ground floor of a wooden house, thermal insulation material is usually placed in the spaces between the joists on which the decorative coating lies.

Related article: Bathroom tiles: how to choose for floors and walls

Insulation of wooden floors in an apartment occurs as follows:

The old covering material is dismantled.
A vapor barrier is laid - usually a simple polyethylene film. The film strips are laid overlapping and secured with tape. The film must be applied to the walls so that the edges eventually protrude above the surface of the finished floor. They can be trimmed later.
Insulation is being installed. If bulk material is used, it is poured between the joists, using them as beacons for leveling the insulation using the rule. Other types of thermal insulation are rolled out close to the joists, avoiding even the slightest cracks.
If absorbent cotton wool is used, it is additionally covered with another layer of film to protect it from moisture on all sides.
Leveling slabs of plywood or gypsum fiber sheet are attached to the joists on top of the insulation. You can skip this step and immediately lay the floorboard.
Any type of decorative covering can be installed.

Insulation of floors on concrete base

In addition, floor slabs are almost never joined tightly enough to prevent air from passing through the cracks. As a result, a lot of heat flows into the basement from the first floor.

Screed

One of the most common methods of thermal insulation is laying insulation under a cement screed with your own hands. The insulation of the screed is carried out in this way:

The old coating is removed down to the base. The old screed is also removed.
Floor slabs are repaired if necessary, and joints are sealed. Then the surface is thoroughly cleaned of debris and remnants of the old screed, and vacuumed with a construction vacuum cleaner.
Waterproofing is being carried out. A thick film is laid over the base. The edges of the material need to be placed on the walls. The edges, overlapping each other by 10 cm, are secured with adhesive tape.
The selected insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. Sheets of expanded polystyrene and unwound rolls of glass wool should lie close to each other.
The insulation is covered with an additional layer of film.
A reinforcing mesh is placed on the insulation. It is needed in order to increase the strength of the screed.
The cement-sand mixture is poured. The thickness of the screed must be at least 50 mm at its highest point, otherwise during operation it may become covered with cracks and begin to crumble.
The surface of the dried screed is covered with two layers of primer for final leveling, strengthening and clogging of pores in the concrete.
The finishing coating is laid on the finished screed.

Related article: Bedroom interior design. Small bedroom design. Classic style. Photo

Dry insulation on joists

Insulation along the joists is carried out as follows:

The concrete base is cleaned of old coating, screed and debris.
The floor is waterproofed. To do this, you can use bitumen or polymer mixtures, applied with a brush or roller, like paint. A less effective, but cheaper and faster way is to lay plastic film.
Wooden logs are installed a meter apart from each other, no more, so that the floors do not sag. These logs can also be used as beacons for filling expanded clay. It is important to ensure that the upper edges of the joists are in the same plane.
The selected heat-insulating material is laid. The insulation should be installed close to the joists, avoiding any gaps.
The floor covering is formed from plywood, gypsum fiber sheets or fiberboard. The thickness of this layer should be about one and a half centimeters. To do this, the material can be laid in two layers, so that the slabs lie crosswise and the joints do not coincide. The sheets are fastened with glue and self-tapping screws.
Any type of finishing coating can be installed.

Spray insulation

Another way to ensure thermal insulation on the ground floor is professional insulation with a thin layer of polyurethane foam. It forms a seamless polymer surface about 7 cm thick on the floor.

In addition, polyurethane foam does not need waterproofing. The service life of the material is estimated at tens of years.

Alternatives

Insulating the floors of the house on the first floor is a mandatory task. It cannot be the only solution to achieve complete comfort in your home and is often only a stage in a whole range of measures to ensure heat. We are talking about insulating walls, ceilings, entrance groups and window openings. But the most logical place to start taking care of thermal insulation is from the floor. The article will discuss the insulation of the floor of the first floor.

First floor floor installation

To begin with, it is worth deciding what type of surface insulation will be carried out from the widest range of materials. The most popular at the moment are:

Styrofoam;
expanded polystyrene;
dry expanded clay screed;
glass wool;
mineral (stone) wool.

They differ not only in cost, but also in a number of characteristics that are worth considering in more detail. Since some of the materials offered are of similar origin or are mistakenly accepted as analogues, then Comparative characteristics will help you make your choice.

Insulation for the first floor floor

Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

If we talk about kinship, then these two insulation products undoubtedly have it. Polystyrene foam is somewhat older, polystyrene foam is rather an improved version of it.

The differences begin already at the production stage. Polystyrene granules are used as raw materials. To obtain polystyrene foam, they are treated with a stream of hot air, and they expand and join together. A product with a porous structure is formed. The extrusion method is more advanced, and as a result of its use, granules of the starting material are melted. The output is a material with a single structure, denser than the above-described specimen. At the same time, the cellular structure, which helps retain heat, is preserved in it.
Foamed polystyrene is 5-6 times stronger than its “brother” in bending, and it will not crumble if environmental conditions change. In addition, expanded polystyrene absorbs moisture less well, and thanks to its improved density, it absorbs noise much more effectively.
Both materials are lightweight and non-toxic (provided that high-quality construction products from proven brands). They are also not susceptible to rotting and mold does not form on them. Fireproof performance is good for both products. It is more expedient to use polystyrene foam for insulating floors in those rooms where little traffic is expected, and the surface will not experience additional loads from, for example, massive furniture. It is also suitable for those who want to save money. However, as follows from the above technical characteristics, such a desire is not always appropriate.

Glass wool or mineral wool

One more not an easy task is the choice between glass wool and mineral wool.

The latter has very impressive fire resistance characteristics, so it is most often used when insulating wooden floors. Natural inorganic origin stone wool gives the right to talk about its environmental friendliness and resistance to the proliferation of pathogenic microorganisms.
The thermal insulation properties of mineral wool are not questioned. We can say with confidence that its use will reduce the cost of heating rooms. She will also provide high level soundproofing. All these wonderful properties will not “work” if the installation technology is violated when insulating the floor. Therefore, when giving preference to rockwool, you should strictly follow the installation recommendations.
Glass wool differs in that it is produced on the basis of broken glass, that is, it is essentially not related to mineral wool. At the same time, it loses (slightly) in terms of thermal insulation and also in the ability to shrink over time. In addition, working with it is not as comfortable as with rockwool due to the formation of fine “glass” dust, which irritates the respiratory tract and hands if they are not protected. But it will cost much less than its “stone” counterpart. So those who are willing to experience some discomfort when laying the material and want to save money can opt for glass wool.

Advantages of expanded clay

This porous material is essentially clay. It is formed into granules and processed at high temperatures. The result is excellent insulation; its flowability makes it easy to fill all voids.

It is good in several respects:

durability;

environmental friendliness;

non-flammability;

complete resistance to the development of microorganisms, does not cause interest among rodents and other pests;

cheapness.

Due to its porous structure, it is a fairly light material, but in this indicator it is inferior to other insulation materials, including those described earlier. Expanded clay also creates an excellent layer that promotes natural ventilation. The sound insulation achieved after its use is considered one of the best.
The thickness of the floor of the first floor can also play against expanded clay, since in order to organize a high-quality layer of thermal insulation, a significant headroom will be required. The minimum recommended bedding layer is 20 cm, and 40 cm is considered optimal. And again, do not forget to add the height of the screed.

To finally decide on the material for insulation, you will need to take into account many factors. In terms of cost, glass wool, polystyrene foam or expanded clay are the most preferable options.
If time is of the essence, then laying foam is the easiest and fastest way.
When it is necessary to perform a procedure in accordance with all rules and requirements fire safety, then mineral wool will be the best choice.

And also important criterion there were and remain the needs and capabilities of the building owners. But in any case, any home craftsman can do all the work on his own.

Thermal insulation of the first floor floor using expanded clay

Expanded clay absorbs moisture very well. This is the main disadvantage of this material. Therefore, the construction of a high-quality waterproofing layer becomes the first and very priority stage. Next, a detailed pie of the first floor floor using expanded clay will be painted.

Moisture protection. The material most often used for these purposes is polyethylene film. You need to take the most durable one. Naturally, one canvas cannot be used, so the joints are carefully taped with construction tape. The calculation when creating a waterproofing sheet should be based on the fact that its edges should be higher in level than the entire intended backfill along with the screed. The extra centimeters can then be trimmed.
Preparing the insulation. The maximum effect will be achieved by preparing a mixture of material from different fractions. The use of expanded clay with sizes from 5 to 20 mm will serve to better distribute the granules and create a base more suitable for adhesion to concrete.
Lighthouses. Their alignment is necessary to create a perfectly flat surface without drops or slopes. The first is located a few centimeters away from the walls. Fixation is carried out on small piles of fairly thick cement mortar. Next, the beacons are placed parallel to the first. The installation distance corresponds to the length of the rule. It will be used for subsequent leveling of the screed. Typically used for guides metallic profile. If floor insulation and subsequent pouring is carried out independently for the first time, then it is better not to “save” on the number of beacons.

Prepared expanded clay can be poured. It is evenly distributed and lightly compacted. The fill level needs to be constantly monitored to avoid slopes. Then you will need to saturate the bedding with a solution of liquid cement. This “cement laitance” will give strength to the insulation layer and allow it to remain in its original position during further pouring. Reinforcing layer made of metal mesh will be the final step at this stage.
Filling. The prepared solution is evenly distributed from the wall along the level of the beacons. Smooth out using the rule. So they gradually move towards the entrance to the room.
You can walk on the screed no earlier than after 7 days, but the coating will completely harden and be ready for finishing in a month. While the drying process is underway, to avoid cracking, the future floor should be moistened with water. You can check for “readiness” in this way: place a glass jar with the neck down. If condensation forms on its walls, it means that there is a lot of moisture in the floor and it is too early to start laying the finishing coating.
The result is a durable and warm, flat surface on which tiles, laminate or any other type of flooring will look ideal.

As an option, you can consider a “dry” screed using expanded clay and gypsum fiber sheets (gypsum fiber sheets).

Creation of a waterproofing layer. It is mounted, as in the first case, the joints are overlapped by about 20 cm, and a margin of 6-7 cm is made on the walls.
Along the entire perimeter of the room, the places where the film comes into contact with the wall are covered with damper tape.
Beacons are displayed.
Expanded clay is poured in portions. It is leveled and lightly compacted. After this, be sure to check that the height is level. This operation is carried out gradually in separate areas. As soon as one piece of the floor is prepared, it is immediately covered with a gypsum fiber board. It is laid in two layers, gluing together and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws.

The seams at the joints of the gypsum plasterboard are puttied; you can go over them with a layer of bitumen waterproofing.
Remains of film and damper tape cut off, the base is ready for finishing.

Insulation of the ground floor floor using mineral or glass wool

If the desire to insulate the floor arose already during the operation of the building, then first you will need to get rid of the old flooring material. When boards are dismantled and later planned to be returned to their place, they can be numbered for ease of assembly.

The condition of the joists and rough flooring is assessed. If there are rotten elements, then work is first carried out to replace them.
Waterproofing. It is better to choose polyethylene with a density of 100 microns or higher. It is laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Near the walls in height, it is necessary to leave a reserve of about 10 - 15 cm. If the groundwater lies too close to the surface, then it is preferable to choose roofing felt or glassine as a vapor barrier.
Between the finished floor joists the selected insulation is laid. It is covered with another layer of insulating material on top.

A counter-lattice is constructed with a thickness of 2 cm. Its function is to provide a ventilation gap.
A new flooring is being built or the old boards are being installed back.

If you need to insulate the concrete floor of the first floor with mineral wool, then logs are installed first. Vapor barrier films will not be required.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the house floor with polystyrene foam

Waterproofing layer created using the technologies described earlier. It is assumed that it is laid on a leveled surface.
Beacons are placed on top.
A cement screed is in progress. Its thickness is 4 cm.
On her in a checkerboard pattern foam boards are installed, which fit tightly to each other when laid. After this, the screed is left alone for a couple of days.
After the first layer has dried, finishing screed is being performed. The beacons for it are attached to the insulation boards. The thickness of the cement layer is 70 mm. It is filled using reinforcing mesh. After leveling and drying the solution, the floor is ready for finishing with any coating.

Proper use of extruded polystyrene when creating floor insulation

If polystyrene foam is placed inside the logs, they should be located at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
Initially, a waterproofing layer is laid, and then insulation is tightly laid between the joists.

Using a construction stapler, another layer of vapor barrier is fixed on top. The top of this layered structure is covered with sheets of plywood or boards.
A prerequisite is a ventilation gap, which is left around the perimeter of the entire room (approximately 0.5 cm). It will not be noticeable after installing the skirting boards.
At a relatively high cost, foamed polystyrene creates a high-quality and warm layer that will last for a long time. However, experts recommend taking into account the following point when using it: if polystyrene foam was used to insulate floors, then in a similar procedure with the ceiling and walls it is better to give preference to more “breathable” materials so as not to create a greenhouse effect in the home.