If you are planning to build country house, maximally equipped for comfortable living in it, then without small oven it is usually not necessary, especially if you plan to use it for most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose the right one, not really difficult option, the design of which is simple and understandable.
In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are also suitable for small house, and for the novice stove maker – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.
To make it easier to decide suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.
General requirements for brick kilns
The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:
- Dimensions furnace design must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
- In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. Side walls ovens, heating up, give large quantity heat, while the indicator of the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.
For heating efficiency, a T-shaped stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms with a small area.
- The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
- When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of the rooms, but also to their location and number external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:
| Room area, m² | Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two external corners | Hallway |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Furnace surface opening into the room, m² | ||||
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
- There is no need to play it safe and choose for small house a massive furnace, since to warm it up will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the stove, and not just on its massiveness.
- Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.
If you plan to save on fuel while getting high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will for a long time retain heat transferred to living spaces.
How to choose the right place for the stove?
The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.
- If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not touch each other, interior walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
- In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain from cold currents.
- Placement of the furnace hatch close to front door will get rid of excess garbage in living rooms, since you don’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
- The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.
- If the stove is installed in an already built house, then when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the beams attic floor, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often they fix around the pipe metal box, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite or simply sand.
- The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.
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Models of simple-designed small brick ovens
Brick kilns are not large sizes do not lose their relevance today. And this despite the emerging alternative options heating, since many of these new products are too expensive, and others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.
Oven "Krokha"
The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, if the structure is installed correctly, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be ideal option, as it can create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.
This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The oven has very small dimensions, only 640×770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.
The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of 18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 2030 mm |
| Oven weight | 1260-1280 kg |
| Firebox depth | 746 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat transfer with a disposable firebox | 1760 W |
| With a three-time fire | 2940 W |
| Hob | Single burner |
The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options, differing in location hob relative to the firebox, but most often an improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.
In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.
Up to the stove level, the oven has smooth walls, and above the combustion door, under the hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.
According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.
Since the oven has small size along the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.
| Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 | 21 | |
| Red brick (without chimney pipe) | 352 | |
| Curly (rounded) red brick | 124 | |
| 350×250 | 1 | |
| Glass combustion door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S) | 210×250 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| 410×340 | 1 | |
| Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 40×40×5×520 | 4 |
Compact stove model - “Baby”
The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, so when it heats up, it quickly begins to release heat into the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.
When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the rear wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, laid without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.
If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.
First heating finished oven need to be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7-9 days.
After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps that are invisible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of frozen solution and fill it with a new one, but more carefully and accurately.
You might be interested in information on how to do it with step-by-step instructions
If you plan to decorate the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of using the stove.
The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:
- Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
- Embedded in it steel pipe and connecting it to the main chimney;
- An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.
This diagram will help you understand the design of this model. brick oven, since the number of rows and the configuration of smoke exhaust ducts are clearly visible on it.
The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 505×760 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 725 mm |
| Oven weight | 360÷370 kg |
| Firebox depth | 737 mm |
| Chimney duct cross-section size | 100×100 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat dissipation | 1210 W |
| Hob | single burner |
To build the Malyshka stove you will need the following materials and ready-made elements(excluding the chimney pipe):
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox | 37 | |
| Red brick | 62 | |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Single burner cast iron stove | 410×340 | 1 |
| Cast iron grate | 350×200 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| 550×800 | 1 |
Prices for fireclay bricks
fireclay brick
It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.
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Heating stove with a small footprint
This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.
It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjoining rooms, building a stove into the wall between them.
The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. Side walls The stoves have a fairly large area, so when they heat up, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, moreover, to the front and back wall Of these, 210 W are accounted for, and the side ones account for 895 W each.
The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.
The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:
In this case, the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers longer inside the structure, heating the entire area of its side walls.
To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick | 260 | |
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion department | 130 | |
| Cast iron grate | 250×400 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×200 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 200×300 | 1 |
| Cleaning doors | 140×200 | 2 |
| Chimney damper | 130×310 | 2 |
| Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing | 1000×600 | 2 |
| Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.
Prices for chimney valves
chimney valves
This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed one concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.
- Ruberoid is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, on waterproofing material can be drawn with chalk, using a long ruler, the border of the base.
- When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
- As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
- On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
- On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.
Prices for roofing material
roofing felt
- The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
- Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.
- On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
- On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
- The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.
Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying
General description and required materials
In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. She is chosen for detailed description, because with its simple design and compact size it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.
This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the structure. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the smooth rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the fire, faces the living room.
The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of up to 30 square meters. m.
The presented version of the “Swede” was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating country house, measuring 4000×7000 mm, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.
- Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
- For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
- In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
- In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.
If you decide to use this development, you should first consider the table necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.
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Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:
| Name of materials and components | Size(mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| Red solid stove brick (excluding pipe height) | 250×120×60 | 551 |
| Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8 | 250×124×65 | 31 |
| Blower door | 140×250 | 1 |
| Fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Doors for cleaning chambers | 140×140 | 3 |
| Oven | 450×250×290 | 1 |
| Cast iron two-burner cooking stove | 410×710 | 1 |
| grate | 200×300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steam exhaust valve | 130×130 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 45×45×5×1020 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×700 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×905 | 5 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×650 | 2 |
| Drying rack | 190×340 | 1 |
| Floor metal sheet drying chambers | 800×905×0.5÷1 | 1 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 500×700×1.5÷2 | 1 |
| Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements. | 5mm thick | 1 |
Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"
| Illustration | Description of the work procedure |
|---|---|
 | The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented. |
 | The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid staggered, with overlapping seams. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber, which will be located under the oven, and the blower begin. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks. |
 | The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base under the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the niche for oven and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For laying this row and interior design niches will require 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks. |
 | For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed. |
 | On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to form - the internal lining is fire-resistant, and external masonry- red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks. |
 | Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks. |
 | On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove, intended for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks. |
 | Having laid out the tenth row, on a step carved in fireclay brick, along the entire perimeter internal space lay asbestos cord. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45×45×1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect brick corner from damage and general strengthening of the row. |
 | On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick. |
 | For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme. |
 | The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th. |
 | The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks. |
 | After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other. |
 | The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues. |
 | The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks. |
 | After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry. |
 | On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks. |
 | The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks. |
 | After laying out the 22nd row, a small drying chamber is mounted metal plate measuring 190x340 mm, which will serve as a heated shelf. |
 | 23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks. |
 | On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks. |
 | On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks. |
 | The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern. |
 | Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers. |
 | A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney channel, into which smoke will flow from all other channels. The chimney pipe will be built above it. |
 | On the 27th row from the top metal sheet continuous brickwork is installed. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks. |
 | The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks. |
 | Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven. |
 | The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. At the top of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney damper, measuring 250x130 mm. Next, on clay mortar The valve frame itself is also mounted. |
 | The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above. |
The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.
Device issues stove heating are not always limited to the construction of massive structures for efficient heating of large rooms. In some cases, it is necessary to provide heat supply to a small, not necessarily residential space, it could be a garage, summer cuisine, workshops or just country house. At first glance, a potbelly stove is ideal for performing this function, but there are models that will do the job much more efficiently.
The simplest device is a baby brick oven, which can be supplemented with a hob. Its area at the base does not exceed 400 cm2, but the baby is capable of heating a room up to 30 m2 in area. It is also noteworthy that the construction of such a model does not require a significant investment of time, money and effort. If a real stove for a home should be built by a person with some experience in this matter, then a baby stove built with his own hands can serve as the first experience of a novice master.
Compact oven option
Advantages of the model
Each project option is created to perform specific tasks. It is pointless to compare all models with each other, since under some conditions those characteristics that are not considered fundamental under other conditions may be important. Therefore, it is customary to highlight the advantages of the presented model. Our little brick oven is not without such a list.
- In order to install a Russian stove, you will need to sacrifice a significant part usable area. The very purpose of the baby suggests that high performance is not expected from her. But the compactness is appreciated by the owners of small country houses.
- Marked as positive point lack of elements made of heat-resistant materials. But in this matter the choice remains with the master, since some professional builders Still, it is recommended to line the firebox area with fireclay bricks.
- The simplicity of the construction scheme makes it possible to obtain a finished device at relatively low costs within a short period of time.
- Even when the stove operates in normal mode, fuel savings are noted, which will eliminate the need to stock up huge volumes of firewood.
- Some experts claim that this model does not require a foundation. Theoretically, durable flooring can withstand the load from the weight of the structure, however, if you care about reliability not for one year, but for decades, then you should think about the foundation. In non-residential premises, the baby can be erected on a foundation using a concrete slab.
Examples of simple stoves
Foundation arrangement
By building a foundation, you will provide your future structure with a reliable foundation. If you use any unprepared floor covering, then over time you cannot avoid its deformation. This will lead to damage to the integrity of the masonry, which may require complete disassembly of the stove to restore. However, the small mass of the device cannot but affect the requirements for the foundation; they are much less stringent than for traditional models.
Recently, the oven in garden house– this is no longer “news”. Amateur gardeners are increasingly building them on their estates and dachas. At the same time, the main requirement for such stoves is compactness, which is why the baby stove has become the most popular. Well, besides this, the little stove heats, “cooks” food, and bakes, and is also easy to build! You can build it yourself:
Design of a small oven
The Malyutka cooking and heating stove has a height of 1.9 meters, a width of 0.75 meters, and a depth of 0.63 meters. Its heat output is 1700 kcal/hour! Occupies only 0.47 sq.m. Furnace volume – 0.90 cubic meters. It has a stove with one burner, an oven-cabinet and an extractor hood. It is also equipped with a kindling stroke used to light the stove after long downtime+ for cooking in summer time(when heating the house is not needed). Through this passage, the heat goes straight into the pipe, without warming up the stove.
This stove also has an oven. It has 2 modes: 1 – when hot gases “approach” it, having previously passed through the revolutions (passes) in the furnace body itself, 2 – when the gases pass to it, passing through the ignition passage, here the temperature of the gases is higher.
Materials for building a stove
Furnace foundation
This little stove is built with a foundation! It should be deepened by 50-70cm, and its upper part should be equal to the level of the finished floor. More simple, and inexpensive foundation considered to be rubble concrete. They do it like this:
First, a foundation pit of 80x65 cm is prepared, and formwork from boards is inserted into it. The inner side of the formwork is covered with roofing felt or plywood so that concrete mortar did not leak through the cracks. Next, layers of broken bricks and rubble stone are laid, and all this is filled with cement mortar. The solution is prepared in proportions 1k3, 1k4. Several layers of roofing felt are laid between the stove and the foundation for waterproofing.
Masonry stove baby
According to this project, a small country stove is installed using a clay-sand mortar. It is prepared in the following proportion: two parts sand to one part clay. Before preparing the solution, the clay must be soaked and the sand must be sifted. We lay the mortar between the bricks in a certain layer - 5-6mm thick. We carry out the masonry with a ligation of ½ brick, or ¼ brick is possible. We check all corners with plumb lines that extend from the nails driven into the ceiling.
Every six rows of masonry, inner side the oven is wiped down with a wet rag!
After the pipe, an opening is made in the ceiling with a fireproof cut in mind. Between the pipe and wooden floors there must be a distance of at least 250mm. Also, do not forget to protect the wall behind the stove if it is wooden. It can be covered with burlap, a 2 cm layer soaked in a clay solution, and a sheet of iron on top. We nail a sheet of iron to the floor in front of the stove to protect against fire.
Rows 1-28 – masonry.
Furnace niche stand (3x3 pipe and 2 plates).
Steam exhaust hood (made of steel 110x930x1).
Furnace niche frame. We connect the parts by welding, screws or rivets. We secure the frame to the wall of the stove with wire, which is laid between the rows of masonry bricks.
Oven/oven. The floor slab is made from a two-burner stove, cut into halves. We close the burner hole that is used for exhaust hood with a valve. We rivet it to the smooth side of the slab itself.
As practice has shown, for a room with a volume of 30 cubic meters. with double floor, insulated walls and double window frames heated up to temperatures of +20°C (with an outside temperature of -20°C), you need to burn up to 12 kg of dry firewood in the oven. And in the next days, with a 2-time fire, it is necessary to burn about 5 kg of wood.
Without properly organized heating, comfortable living in a private home is out of the question. However, there is often a need to install heating in other secondary rooms. In such situations great solution There will be compact heating and cooking stoves of the “Malyutka” type.
Such a unit will be able to heat a small country house, workshop and other premises with an area of up to 25-35 m2. The baby stove is being built in as soon as possible from available materials. After reading the following recommendations, you can install the stove unit with your own hands without any problems.
Preparing to pour the foundation
The baby oven has compact dimensions and relatively modest weight. Due to this, the requirements for the foundation for the furnace are somewhat relaxed, but you will still have to make some efforts to arrange it.
First stage. Prepare a foundation pit 80 cm wide, 90 cm long and 45 cm deep. These are standard values. If you build a stove according to individual project, do not forget to change the dimensions of the base accordingly.
Carefully level the bottom and walls of the recess.
It is prohibited to connect the main foundation of the building with the foundation of the stove. The slightest movement of the soil will cause cracks to appear in this type of structure, which ultimately can even lead to the complete destruction of the building.
Second phase. Cover the bottom of the pit with a 10-centimeter sand cushion. The sand needs to be compacted as much as possible. For better compaction, spill the backfill with water. Let the sand dry overnight.
Third stage. Make formwork. In principle, you can do without formwork, but the presence of this element is very desirable. To assemble the formwork, use ordinary strong wooden boards. The top edge of the formwork must coincide with the floor level.
Foundation for the stove
Take into account the fact that after the solution has dried, you will need to remove the formwork, in such a way that neither the foundation nor the floor is damaged.
Base reinforcement
The upper limit of the finished foundation will be approximately 70 mm below the floor plane. In view of this, the height foundation slab, minus the mentioned 7-centimeter gap and 10-centimeter sand backfill, will be 28 cm. Rely on this value when assembling the reinforcing frame.
If you wish, you can make a single-layer sheathing from thick rods, but professional builders recommend taking rods of a slightly smaller diameter and making 2 reinforcing meshes.
First step. Lay the reinforcing frame. First, lay out the longitudinal rods in parallel at a distance of about 100 mm. As a result, you use 7 rods 80 cm long. On top of the longitudinal rods, lay rods perpendicular to them with a similar pitch. This will take 8 rods, each 70 cm long.
Second step. Tighten the joints of the rods with flexible steel wire. Lay the same second one on top of the first sheathing. Tighten the joints of the sheathings with wire.
Third step. Take 9 reinforcing rods, each 25 cm long. You will place four of these rods at the corners of the mesh, four rods will be placed along the edges, and the remaining one rod will be placed at the central point of the reinforcing layer.
Place some stones or other elements in places where the reinforcement comes into contact with the sand to prevent contact of the metal with the ground.
Fourth step. Sink the reinforcing elements into a sand cushion. The reinforcement should not be allowed to protrude above the concrete pour.
Start pouring. Concrete is poured in a uniform, continuous horizontal layer in one go.
After pouring, work the material with a vibrating tool or at least pierce the concrete with a reinforcing rod to eliminate excess air. Such treatment will help increase the final strength of the foundation.
Leave the poured concrete for a month to dry and gain strength. During the first week, regularly water the fill, otherwise the foundation will crack. It is better to lay a thick baggy cloth on the concrete and pour water directly onto it.
Cover the hardened concrete with aluminum foil (reflective side up) and begin laying out the “Malyutka” stove.
Ordering the Malyutka stove
1-2 row. Lay out two starting continuous rows. Check the evenness of the rows and corners. The starting rows will finally level the base and serve as a support for the further part of the structure. Carry out the laying using clay mortar standard for such work.
3rd row. Install the ash door and lay out the base of the chimney duct.
4 row. The masonry is no different from the third row.
5 row. Close the chimney channel in the center so that there are two passages left on the sides. Close the ash door.
6th row. Install the grate over the cavity closed by the blower door.
7th row. Lay out the base of the combustion chamber. Install a door for the same chamber.
8-9 row. The laying is carried out in the same way as on the 7th row.
10 row. Close the combustion door. On the same row, you need to open the window from the fire chamber to the rear furnace channel.
11 row. Install the hob. The order is no different from the previous one.
12 row. Close the channel into which you made the outlet during the laying out of the 10th row. Start laying out the walls of the brewhouse.
13 row. The masonry repeats the 12th row.
14 row. Open the second horizontal furnace channel. Open a cleaning hatch at the rear of it.
15 row. The masonry repeats the 14th row.
16th row. Close the horizontal channel from the 14th row, leaving at the same time a branch in the opposite direction from the place where the exit was organized when laying the 12th row. Place a metal strip over the brew compartment.
17th row. Cover the horizontal channel with another layer of overlap. This will create a drying compartment. In the same row you will block the brewing compartment on top of the previously fixed metal tape.
18th row. Select the 3rd horizontal furnace channel. It will run at the rear of the furnace unit. Behind it, the smoke will be directed straight into the exhaust pipe. Equip the end of the channel with a cleaning hatch.
19 row. The masonry repeats the 18th row.
20 row. Close the last horizontal furnace channel leading to the chimney.
21 row. Lay out the transition to the chimney and begin forming the smoke exhaust structure. The laying of the stove itself is completed on this row.
Row 22 and above. Lay out the chimney.
At the end, all you have to do is complete the smoke exhaust structure and, if desired, carry out finishing homemade stove. You can leave it without finishing - the brick already has a completely aesthetic appearance.
The “Malyutka” type stove belongs to the category of typical channel stoves. If there is such a desire, it can be modified and turned into a bell furnace, slightly increasing the efficiency of the unit.
In some situations, “babies” are used to heat a separate room of the house, performing the function of a kind of fireplace. For example, such a unit would look good in a large living room. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences.
Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself baby oven
A baby brick stove will be useful for many buildings, especially if they are not heated. It is not expensive to operate and the cost of construction will not be high. Today we will tell you how to make a baby brick oven with your own hands. Below you will find instructions, after reading and studying which you can do everything yourself.
Why it is useful and where it is used
The baby brick oven is quite in demand these days. After all, energy resources are rising in price and this equipment will help you save money.
It is useful in many ways:
- In general, stoves are famous not only for their attractive appearance, but also functionality, because it clearly combines important components with a fireplace; moreover, such structures are capable of heating a small room.
- You can also always cook food. So there will be two functions at once: heating and cooking. This is especially perfect for a summer residence
- The stove is small, which means you don’t have to build a large foundation, thus saving time and money.
- Moreover, you can add smoke circulation here; they, in turn, easily allow you to warm the entire area of the stove, allowing you to transfer heat back, which is important.
- You can build such a stove yourself without special effort, it’s just important to approach the work properly. If you have experience and are a skilled craftsman, then starting the work in the morning, it will already be completed in the evening.
Attention: If your floor is wooden, you will need to make a separate foundation and insulate the wood. Otherwise there may be a fire.
I would like to immediately note a drawback: such a stove will not be able to heat a large room. After all, its size is limited.
Materials for a mini stove
Of course, when thinking about building a mini stove, first of all, you need to choose the right materials necessary for this.
The base will be brick, so let's look at which one is used and where:
 Fireclay brick |
This brick will be indispensable when laying the firebox. After all, there will be direct exposure to fire. And if you use coal for the fire, then given temperature Only this material will withstand. If you use firewood, then you can simply use ordinary material. |
 Private brick |
Price clay brick not large, but the largest quantity will fit. It cuts perfectly with a grinder and is durable. It has good performance, but is not suitable as a front material. |
 Facing brick |
The self-name indicates that this material is intended for exterior finishing. Therefore, this will be an excellent choice. There are also different brick configurations that will help make corners and arcs. You can also choose the desired color. |
Attention: If you are limited in size, then you can do the cladding with materials other than the facing material. And just apply the tiles. Clinker is especially suitable for these purposes.
So:
- To fold a mini oven, you will need about 60 pieces of red kiln brick, you also need to purchase 40 fireclay bricks, you will also need a clay mortar of about twenty liters, usually it is enough to hold the masonry together.
- As a rule, these materials are enough to make it possible to build a mini-oven, which in turn will differ high quality, reliability and durability.
- You will also need special stove tools, for example, a fire door, a comfort stove, it is best to purchase cast iron grates, as they are durable and reliable.
- For a stove, it is best to use a metal valve; in general, the design of the stove is simple, which means that if you really want to build it yourself, then you will succeed.
Installation of a mini-stove
A baby brick oven is quite easy to install and you can do everything yourself. But this work also has its own specifics. If you do not follow certain rules, the oven will not live up to expectations. Let's look at all stages of the work step by step.
Solutions
The solution must be selected depending on the work being done. There are three types of this material the composition of which differs in its characteristics.
Let's look at this question too:
 Cement mortar |
This solution is used most often. They can be used to lay main walls. The exception is the furnace part. He won't last long here. |
 Clay mortar |
This composition will withstand almost the combustion temperature of any combustion material. So the firebox should be made only with its use. |
 We use dry mixes |
This composition is available in large quantities on the networks. retail.So you can even choose desired color for your finishing material. |
When preparing the solution, the preparation proportions must also be observed. You can see them in the photo.
Foundation
Some people say that such a structure can be made without a foundation, but this is not true. If you are making a stove that is half brick and not large in size. Or you just install a metal one and just lay bricks on the floor, then this is possible. But with normal masonry you will have to make a foundation.
Attention: If you still install the stove without a foundation. Then it will be necessary to place a sheet of metal on the base, and a thick-walled one at that.
But better foundation do. It is not difficult and will not require much cost or time. But you will know that the structure will not move and it will stand rigidly. In the photo you can see a simple option that is suitable for this design.
How to do masonry
In any case, it is necessary to use only brick and nothing more, because brick is distinguished by its reliability, warmth, cheapness, and ease of use, and it is for these reasons that this particular building material is chosen.
- If you are making a foundation, then after that you need to apply a layer of waterproofing. You can use roofing material for this.
- If you just lay a sheet of metal, then pour a layer of sand and on it, in turn, begin to lay the first row of bricks.
- We start laying from the corners. We mark them and measure the diagonal, we must have the correct shape in terms of geometry. We put three rows in the corners.
- When laying, be sure to measure verticality using a plumb line and check horizontality with a building level.
- The first row is laid in a continuous layer. It should be ideal in terms of plane.
- Apply to the brick row thin layer clay and place three rows around the perimeter. After which you can begin to install the blower door, try to do it immediately and carefully.
- We insert wire into the fastening points. A steel one is suitable for this. We twist it and put the ends in order.
- If the top brick does not become level, then we trim it using a grinder.
- We cover the door and install the grates. We place the grid on a plane and trace it with a scriber. After this we lower it to the depth of the lattice. Moreover, we make it wider from the mark by one cm. This way we will avoid deformation during expansion.
- For the next row you need to take fireclay bricks, after which you can install the firebox door, which in turn should be wrapped with asbestos cord so that it can open from the bottom up.
- The remaining rows need to be laid flat; when you reach the ninth row of the oven, know that it needs to be laid out in such a way that there is a slight offset back. This way you can keep the door open, which is important.
- Now we cover the installed door. And we will need to install a slab on the top. Food will be cooked on it. There are a large number of them in retail chains. But you should give preference to cast iron. It perfectly withstands direct exposure to fire and retains heat.
- As soon as all stages of work associated with laying bricks have been completed, whitewashing can begin. But know that before you start whitewashing, you definitely need to protect the walls of the house and the iron parts of the stove, because removing stains in the future will be quite difficult.
Attention: When installing the hob, we adhere to the rules for fastening the grate.
After laying, it is necessary to remove smoke. There are prefabricated systems for this. They are easy to install and you can do it without any problems.
The subsequent rows are pipes; they, in turn, must be connected to the light metal pipe– with a chimney, you can always remove the retractable bricks from the fourth row, thereby clearing the chimney space of debris that gets there during construction.
It is important to know
Few people know that speaking about the designs of small stoves in general, there are a large number of them today, the most interesting thing is that they are also heated with various flammable materials, so you must definitely take this into account.
- After all, both firewood and coal can act as combustible materials, so this is important.
- If your house is large and the stove is not capable of heating the entire house, then it can always be used as a heat source intended for a water heating system.
You can make a baby brick oven with your own hands without any problems. If you use quality material and follow the recommendation, then it will last long years. And the video in this article will provide additional necessary information.
