How to install a door to a room yourself. Installing interior doors with your own hands: how to correctly calculate the dimensions and install the doors (95 photos). Door sizes and components

IN this material will be considered most important points, which you should pay attention to when installing interior doors. How to install an interior door yourself, which interior doors to install - this is a question that novice builders ask.

It should be noted that with a strong desire, minimal skills and a set of simple tools, this is quite possible. Which interior doors to install is an individual matter, which depends on taste and financial capabilities.

Before installing interior doors with your own hands, you need the following tools:

• impact drill and drill bits for concrete;
• chisel;
• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• building level;
• nail puller;
• axe;
• construction miter box;
• tape measure and pencil;
• goniometer

Removing the old door

Before installing interior doors, you need to dismantle the old door (see). To do this you need to use a nail puller. We lift the door and remove it from its hinges.

It is advisable to do this work together, as it is safer and easier. To remove old trim, you can use a nail puller or an ax. Thus we dismantle the old box.

Size matters

Before you install the interior door yourself, you need to decide on the width of the doorway. Standard width door leaf becomes 600, 700, 800 and 900 mm.

You need to think carefully before you want to reduce it. After all, furniture will still have to be brought in or taken out through it.

If narrowing the doorway is necessary, then you need to prepare in advance wooden beam. The width of the beam should be equal to the width of the box. You need to insert it between the frame and the wall, securing it with dowels.

Installation steps

Box measurement

You need to start inserting an interior door by measuring the door frame.

• First we attach the top cross member to the top of the door. We measure the distance that needs to be sawed off.
• Next, we do the same with two longitudinal crossbars. We fasten them together with self-tapping screws.
• Two self-tapping screws at each mounting point will be sufficient.. In this process, the main thing to remember is that there must be a gap of 4-5 mm between the frame and the doors, so that the door can freely fit into the frame and there will be no rubbing.

Important. The distance between the floor and the door should be within 10-15 mm, and between the frame and the doors - 4-5 mm.

The next step in installing interior doors will be inserting the hinges. It's easier to do this when the box is already assembled.

So:

• First of all, we cut the hinges into the door leaf. To do this, you need to measure 200 mm from the top and bottom of the door.
• We apply the hinge to the door and draw an outline.
• Further along the contour, using a chisel and hammer, we make a notch depth equal to the thickness of the loops.
• Attaching the doors to the frame and we already outline the outline on the box with further cutting out the recess.
• We attach the hinges (see) to the doors and frame using self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in them. This is done to prevent the fabric from splitting.
• If we install interior doors, then you should remember that there are left-handed and right-handed loops.

Important. You need to understand which side of the door and frame to install the hinges on so that the interior door opens in the direction you want. Screw feet need to be lubricated machine oil or special graphite lubricant.

Installation of interior door frames

The further essence of how to install an interior door is to install and strengthen the frame in doorway.

So:

• To do this, place the box in the opening and carefully align and center it. This is a very important and responsible moment.
• We secure the box with wedges at the top and bottom. Using a drill, we make three holes in each post of the box. As a result, there will be six marks left on the wall along which we will make holes for attaching the box.
• We take out the wedges and remove the box.
• Using a hammer drill with a concrete drill, follow the marks on the wall and make six holes for the dowels. Next, insert the dowels into the holes.
• We install the box and again center and level it using a level.
• We secure the box with long self-tapping screws, which in turn are closed with special caps to match the color of the door.

Have you bought a new home, or is it time to renovate your old one? You cannot do without restoration, replacement or installation of a new interior door. There is no talk of restoration today.

Let's talk about installation new door. You can entrust this kind of work to specialists, but we do it ourselves. Installing an interior door with your own hands will save your budget and will give you pleasure if you are a real man.

The construction market is replete with offers. Interior doors are no exception. Choose whatever your heart desires, within your pocket. But don't rush into buying. It is necessary to take into account the specific layout of rooms in a house or apartment, the size of the doorway, and the specifics of opening doors. Interior doors are:

• swing single-door or double-door;
• sliding compartments (built into the wall or on top of the wall);
• harmonic;
• secret.

Each has distinctive features, requires an individual approach to installation and fittings. Handles can be installed on the surface of the canvas or recessed inside; rotary or push.

Loops for different types your own interior doors. Most often they consist of two parts: one is attached to the canvas, the other to the vertical post of the box.

Swing double door design.

A system of upper/lower guides is provided for compartment interior doors. Knowing the features of installing different types of doors, doing everything yourself will not be difficult. Now let's talk about everything in order.

Determining the size of the future door structure

Let's take a single-leaf swing door as a basis. Understanding the calculations overall dimensions With this design, it will not be difficult to figure out other options.

1. We measure the interior opening in height and width. We take the size of a clean space without an old door, if there is one. There should be no inaccuracies in the calculations - this will affect the quality of the installation of interior doors with your own hands.
2. If available old design, dismantle it, level the surface.
3. The width of standard interior doors varies from 700 mm. They may be smaller, but this is only for some utility rooms. Because it will be difficult to pass through such an opening, much less bring large objects.
4. For a door with a width of 700 mm, the opening must be at least 790 mm. It is necessary to take into account the thickness of the frame, door leaf and technological gap for comfortable opening of the sash. Typically, a gap of 30 mm is left on the right and left sides inside the box.
5. Let's move on to heights. The standard door leaf corresponds to a height of 2000 mm. Larger size made to order. Add thickness to the height of the door leaf top bar boxes, opening gaps.
6. The design can be with or without a threshold. This must be taken into account when purchasing a door. Average height interior openings is 2100 mm. If the space is a little larger than the standard, don’t worry. During the installation process, the remaining space will be hidden by foam casing around the perimeter.

Dimensions of a standard door and frame.

What to buy at a hardware store to install interior doors yourself?

• door leaf the right size, type - 1 pc.;
• timber for the frame, if not included with the door - 3–4 pcs. (depending on the type of box);
• extras (if necessary);
• cash, if not included;
• hinges of a certain type (consult the salesperson in the store or read the information on choosing door hinges);
• door knob;
• screws for the box;
• polyurethane foam;
• masking tape;
• tools, if not available household, or rent it.

What tools do you need to prepare:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• hacksaw or miter saw;
• level;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• miter box;
• mallet;
• gun for polyurethane foam;
• wedges and bars for spacers.

All parts have been purchased and prepared. Let's move on to installing the interior door with our own hands.

Preparing the door leaf and frame with your own hands

Each master has his own methods for installing interior doors. You can mount the box and the panel separately in the opening, or you can assemble it into a single set and install it in the opening. The main thing is that the result is positive. Step-by-step instructions will help you avoid mistakes.

DIY box assembly

Let's consider a technology where the box is assembled on the floor and then installed in the opening.

Initially, it is important to install the door frame correctly.

Knowing the size of the product, we cut off the required length of the vertical slats. To do this, take a tape measure, take a measurement, mark a mark with a pencil, and saw off the excess length.

There are two ways to cut timber:

• at an angle of 45 degrees;
• at an angle of 90 degrees.

Assembly with the first option is not available to every craftsman. You need clarity of action, a steady hand and a miter saw. At an angle of 45 we cut out not only vertical strips, but also horizontal ones. We connect the elements with self-tapping screws, tightening them deeper.

There are no difficulties with the second option. We saw off the required length and connect the parts at an angle of 90 degrees. We make a small recess on the top of the vertical bar for the upper vertical part of the box, a kind of groove. It will help to connect the timber parts more tightly with self-tapping screws.

Before tightening the fasteners, make holes with a drill to avoid cracking the planks and damaging the workpiece.

It will help you understand the technique of assembling a box with your own hands. step by step video instructions in this article.

We considered the option when the assembly interior box comes from special blanks for the door structure. They are recommended when an additional rigid frame is needed in the opening. For example, in wooden house the frame made of timber will act as a frame and will not allow the doorway to open when shrinking and to disturb the geometry of the door. The thickness and width of the timber is selected according to the type of door: solid wood, MDF, panel or other. Everyone has their own thickness. Choose the option you like for assembling the support frame and move on to assembling the canvas.

Assembling the canvas with your own hands, installing accessories

Assembling the door leaf involves attaching the necessary fasteners to the door leaf. Sometimes manufacturers make notches on the intended attachment points for hinges or handles. These are more exclusive and expensive models.

All fittings for the door leaf must be installed before the door hangs into the frame.

Often sash interior design universal, i.e. the product can be installed in the interior opening both on the right and on the left. Our instructional hint will help you understand this issue.

Advice: on technique fire safety any door should open outward in the direction of travel. Neither the handle nor the blade should touch other objects so that there is no rebound from the blow back. It can be traumatic.

Try to ensure that adjacent doors do not interfere with each other when opening. Sometimes the corridor space is narrow, but separates several rooms that need to be isolated with interior doors. If you choose the wrong opening option, there will be a problem with one door hitting another or one of the doors may block the other. Architects do not always think through this point, especially in small apartments. Therefore, consider all the nuances so that the use useful item the interior was not deplorable. A sliding door would be a good solution.

Installing hinges yourself

We figured out the opening direction. Let's move on to installing interior door hinges with our own hands.

Apply markings on the canvas and vertical bar load-bearing frame. According to the standard, two loops are secured. If the door is heavy, for example solid, a third hinge will be required.

The hinges are attached to the door exactly according to the given pattern, observing the dimensions.

From the top and bottom we retreat 150–200 mm from the edge and make the first notch. This is one edge of the hinge strip. We mark the second mark - this is the other edge of the bar. We find out the size by measuring the length of the loop with a tape measure or applying the loop itself to the first mark. We perform the same actions on the vertical stand of the box.

Modern hinges may fit tightly to the ends of the product or require additional recess into the edge. To do this, take a chisel and select the required gap from the canvas and timber. Thus, the seats for the upper and lower loops have been outlined.

We secure the fittings with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them with a drill.

Some experts recommend securing the hinge to the canvas and box before installation. Other craftsmen advise placing the box and then screwing the canvas together with the hinges in a standing position. What to choose is up to you. It’s easier to immediately attach the hinges to the frame and the sash in a lying position, and then install it in the opening. But adjustment difficulties may arise if the door connection is not symmetrical around the perimeter of the opening.

Installation and assembly of the handle

Let's move on to the handles. Step-by-step instructions for installing handles will help you do everything correctly. Although door handles are presented in a wide range, their installation is carried out according to a certain algorithm. Latch handles are often used, which contain a locking element in the design that allows you to close the door with a key or latch:

• we measure the height where we will attach the handle and lock, according to the standard 90–120 mm from the floor;
• At the end of the blade, a hole for the locking strip is drilled with a large drill;
• insert the bar into the hole, mark its contours at the end of the canvas;
• we take out the lock and make a recess with a chisel so that the lock plate is flush with the surface;
• on the surface of the product we mark the place where the handle is attached, applying the lock plate from the outside;
• drill a hole for the handle;
• insert the lock back into the end and secure it with a handle;
• We will install the counter plate on the frame after hanging the door in the opening.

You can figure out how to fix the handles on the door with your own hands by watching the video instructions:

Installing a door in an interior opening

We move on to the next stage - installing the product in the interior opening. Let's make a small digression. If the door is installed in new apartment, then it is enough to check the evenness of the opening and correct unevenness using plaster and a trowel. Sand the surface, prime it and begin installation. door design. But if the renovation is carried out in an old room, then it is necessary to dismantle the old door or interior frame. This requires time, effort, and skill.

The entire space around the box is foamed with polyurethane foam.

Do the dismantling in advance so as not to spray and prolong the installation period of the door. We are doing this with our own hands and for the first time. Finishing work walls and floors must be completed before the doors are installed, so that later there are no inconsistencies. This requirement applies both to the installation of a U-shaped box and along the entire perimeter with a threshold. It is difficult to push linoleum or tiles under the door and maintain the ability to open correctly.

Correct installation of the door with your own hands requires the presence of an assistant. There are two options for installation in the opening, but in each of them it is difficult to do all the manipulations alone.

First way. Installing the box separately from the canvas

After checking the evenness of the frame with a level, we install it in the prepared interior opening. Accompanying each action with a level and plumb line, we set the frame level. It should not have even the slightest slope. This will affect the opening of the sash.

Installation door frame separately from the canvas.

We install wedges or bars to pre-fix the box. Don't forget about the gap between the jamb and the slats.

We drill holes in the vertical strip and screw self-tapping screws into the holes. They must pull the box towards the door frame. If the house is wooden, a long self-tapping screw will easily fit into the log. If the house is made of brick, you need to make a preliminary hole in the opening and insert a plastic dowel under the screw. The fasteners must be recessed into the bar so as not to interfere with the opening/closing of the sash.

We check all surfaces with a level.

There are situations when the box cannot completely cover the joint. Decorative additions help hide the opening. They are attached directly to the jamb or attached to the frame before installation. Select right size add extras or cut them in place. Such extensions are secured into the groove using foam.

The box is fixed. Let's move on to hanging the canvas. If the hinges are collapsible, then hanging the sash is not very difficult. The hinges are installed symmetrically on both parts of the product. We insert one part of the loop into the other and check all the gaps. They should be the same around the entire perimeter.

Second way. Installation of the assembled product

Before installing the kit in the interior opening, we place cardboard spacers between the canvas and the box. This will maintain the gaps and symmetry of the kit.

• Carefully lift the product and install it in the opening.
• Align along the perimeter using a level and plumb line.
• We install wedges or bars around the perimeter to maintain gaps and space for foam.
• We move on to foaming the space around the perimeter. This process is similar in both the first and second installation methods.
• Before applying foam in the gaps, close the front sides of the box masking tape to avoid foam getting on the product. It is quite difficult to clean it. Use a foam gun. The gun will reduce material consumption and the work will be done accurately. Take your time. Apply layer by layer from top to bottom.

After foaming the space, it is advisable to leave the door closed for a day. At rest, no deformations will occur, and the cardboard placed between the box and the canvas will maintain gaps and will not allow the beam to bend when the foam expands.

The door leaf can be installed separately from the frame or together.

After drying, cut off the excess foam and remove the masking tape.

All that remains is to secure the lock strike plate at the end of the box and install the decorative parts - trims.

installing an interior door with your own hands is the final process

At closed door We apply a notch to the place where the lock strike plate is attached. Use a chisel to select a hole for the plank. It should be recessed flush into the timber. We fix it with self-tapping screws. We check the operation of the lock and handle.

The final work is finishing.

The final step is to install the trim on the sides and top of the interior door. Platbands can be connected to each other at an angle of 45 degrees or at a right angle. It depends on the design of the product. Sometimes parts are sold ready-made or need to be filed. The cut is made with a miter saw. Connect the elements in place, secure with liquid nails or using nails without heads, driving into drilled holes.

If you have a need installation of interior doors, then don’t rush to call an expensive specialist, because if you wish, this can be done with your own hands. Knowing little about the construction business, you can use our advice and install the interior yourself door .

Read also:

We install interior doors with our own hands

The process of installing interior doors is quite complicated, so a positive result depends on strict implementation every action.

If you decide to do this kind of work on one's own, then be patient. You should very carefully study all the instructions and tips for installing interior doors with your own hands, and then perform all actions scrupulously.

By following all the rules given below, you and your loved ones will be happy with brand new interior doors.

We install the interior door ourselves. Preparation

First you need level the walls cover them with putty and plaster. After which the wall in which the door will stand should be well dried otherwise there is a risk of the door frame moving.

The floor must also be prepared for laying. When installing an interior door consider the final height of the future flooring, to correctly calculate the height of the door frame. If you are replacing an existing door, then the latter conditions are not so important.

The next step will be selection and purchase of interior doors, which we will talk about in the next article.

You can purchase the frame and doors separately or assembled. The door frame can be made on one's own. This U-shaped design, consisting of box timber. In essence, these are two posts, as well as a horizontal rail called the lintel.

Note! The best option door frame - without a horizontal bar at the bottom (threshold). If you don't hide this block, it will only get in the way when walking.

When you choose a timber, carefully ensure that there are no unevenness or black (dead) knots on it.

Important! The thickness of the door frame must be equal to the thickness of the door, otherwise the interior door cannot be installed.

To see the quality result of our work, you need professional tool. However it is expensive. At the same time, if you perform the work with simple tools, there is a risk of not maintaining the required accuracy.

You will need:

• Hacksaw
• Level meter
• Miter box
• Tape measure for measuring distance
• Screwdriver Set
• Hammer
• Set of chisels.

Power tools:

• Electric milling machine
• Hammer
• Miter saw
• Screwdriver
• Circular.

Consumables:

• Polyurethane foam
• Nails
• Self-tapping screws
• Wedges
• Bars.

We begin to install the interior door

First you need to decide How will the interior door open?. This largely depends on the layout of the house.

For example, in the bathroom it is recommended to have doors that open outward, because there is little space there. And if the door is a transition from a small corridor to large room, then you can install doors that will open into the room.

Let's move on to installation of the door frame. This is the most crucial moment and the basis of all work on installing interior doors, since the entire success of the work depends on the installation of the racks.

1. Miter saw saw off the top parts of the posts at an angle of 45°. If you don't have a miter saw, then this operation can be done using a small hacksaw and a miter box.

2. We measure the racks. It is better to measure and mark the required length of the two posts from the inside.

3. Now let's prepare the lintel. We measure it from the inside in the same way.

4. Using a miter saw or small hacksaw, saw off the lintel on both sides at an angle of 45°.

How to properly install an interior door

Installing door hinges

Installation door hinges is also a responsible undertaking. Dimensions must be accurately maintained regarding the door leaf and door frame. It is also necessary to accurately calculate the dimensions of the hinge recesses.

1. On the inside of the stand you need to retreat 20 cm. A loop will be attached to this place.

2. The installation distance for the hinge will be 0.4 cm (the distance from the door leaf to the post) + the recess itself in which the hinge will be located.

3. Place a loop in in the right place and trace it with a pencil.

4. It is better to make the area for the hinge using a router, and if there is none, then this work is done with chisels.

5. Using the same principle, we make the seat for the bottom hinge, which should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom edge of the door leaf.

6. We make recesses for the hinges both on the counter and on the door.

Door frame installation
Door frame installation should happen as follows:

1. We attach the racks perpendicularly to the ceiling using self-tapping screws. But first you need to use a drill to make holes of a smaller diameter than the diameter of the screws.

Then we screw the screws into the resulting holes, otherwise the structure at the screwing points may burst. It will be enough to screw in only 4 screws, 2 per side. The entire procedure must be done on a soft substrate (for example, cardboard) so as not to scratch the door leaf.

2. We place the resulting box in the wall opening, securing it with spacers and wedges.

Do not forget! There must be a gap of 2-3 cm between the box and the wall for the mounting foam.

3. Align the door frame horizontally and vertically using a level.

4. We finally fasten the entire box with self-tapping screws, but before that we drill holes in the box and in the wall.

Before drilling the wall, we make marks with a drill through our door frame. If the opening is made of brick, then you should use a self-tapping screw to hit the solid brick, and not into the cracks between the bricks, otherwise the dowels will not hold well.

5. After the holes are ready, of which you can make 6-8 per side, you can install dowels.

6. Now we screw self-tapping screws (it is better to use wood screws) into the dowels through the door frame. It will be more convenient to screw in the screws with an electric drill with an appropriate attachment or a screwdriver. Do not tighten the screws to the limit, as the box may bend. When screwing in, periodically check the level of the structure.

7. Installing hinges.

Be careful! The hinges must be installed so that the door leaf can be attached to the hinges from above.

8. We install the door, hanging it on the hinges, and check whether the door closes and opens correctly. The door should not open or close on its own - this will indicate that the interior door is installed incorrectly. If there are any defects, we eliminate them.

9. Now you need to close the door and insert small spacers of appropriate sizes (cardboard is fine) between the door and the posts so that in the future the foam does not deform the door frame.

10. Finally, we apply foam between the wall and the frame. Start filling the vertical seam from the bottom. Do not overdo it, fill about a third of the total volume of the seams, since the foam increases in size as it dries.

In addition, excessive application of foam leads to its overuse. Also, excess foam can get on the front of the door. The foam should dry for about a day at a temperature of 20°C.

11. After the foam has dried, you can remove all the spacers.

Installation of platbands

After the door frame is installed, you still have to install platbands.

1. To do this, cut the required length at an angle of 45°.

Advice! To ensure that when cutting the platband there are no chips left and the cut is “clean”, saw from the outside.

It is better to saw the slats for the platbands, leaving a margin of a few millimeters to insure in case of a mistake.

2. We secure the resulting platbands using self-tapping screws, nails or glue.

3. If you used nails, then their heads need to be rubbed down.

And if these are self-tapping screws, then you can simply put decorative plugs on them. It is enough to screw 6-8 self-tapping screws onto each side of the trim.

There are times when the width of the casing is too large, because of which it cannot be installed to a wall perpendicular to it. Then you just need to reduce the width of the platband by cutting it off. You should end up with a casing that fits directly against the wall.

If the platbands do not fit well in the corners, then such angles can be adjusted using sandpaper, but it is better to use a belt sander.

Also consider the case when the walls in the room are not straight, and are located in the shape of a trapezoid. This usually happens in toilets and bathrooms of old "Khrushchev" buildings. In such cases, cutting the platbands at an angle of 45° makes no sense, because they will not fit together. Therefore, you can take our advice and cut the trim as in the photo.

However, such methods of installing platbands can be used if the thickness of the box matches the thickness of the wall. And if the wall thickness is greater, then use the installation additional extras.

Installation of accessories

So, in order to prepare the accessories and carry out installation, you first need cut rebounds according to your sizes. It can be done with your own hands from a flat board.

Perfect for damp and thick walls waterproof plywood(BS), which can be additionally pasted over decorative film. But it is often easier and cheaper to install ready-made additions from MDF with decorative design.

Let's consider one more nuance: if the design of the interior door has a significant distortion, then installing add-ons is highly not recommended.

Distortions are evidence that the door frame has been installed wrong, and if the fittings are adjusted to such an incorrect design, then later they will split and warp.

Maybe, walls in the room with a slight slope. If we're talking about about small unevenness (about 5 mm), this can be corrected with a layer of plaster. With much greater curvature of the walls, there will be no choice - you will have to file the fittings under the walls.

Foaming

After installing the extensions and before applying plaster The cracks must be filled with foam.

As you know, when foam hardens, it tends to expand, creating a lot of pressure, and so that the design of the interior doors does not suffer, use our tips:

• Do not remove the leveling wedges and spacers before the foam has completely dried.
• Apply foam in 3-4 layers: apply the next layer after the previous one has dried.
• Leave a space of 1 cm unfilled with foam between the supports and the wall. It is better to plaster this space.

We hope that our advice will bring you benefit and joy from your new doors.

How to install an interior door video

Home renovations will look unfinished without installing an interior element such as doors. They protect the living space from outside negative factors, promote warmth and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Common at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, and have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and jewelry precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite possible for anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

• Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
• Preparing the opening for installation of a new door.
• Installing hinges and locks on the door leaf.
• Door frame assembly.
• Installation of additional elements.
• Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
• Connecting the door leaf to the frame.
• Fixation of the structure using polyurethane foam.
• Fastening of fittings and platbands.

To perform the work you will need a certain tool:

• hammer;
• chisels 16 and 20 mm;
• roulette;
• crowbar;
• level;
• screwdriver and screwdriver;
• wood hacksaw with fine teeth;
• miter box;
• drill and hammer drill;
• if possible, a milling machine, a circular saw.

Materials for door installation:

• door leaf and door frame;
• door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
• polyurethane foam;
• wedges;
• nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before installing the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there old door, then dismantle it. To do this, using a crowbar, avoiding strong and sudden movements, first remove the platbands. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. Using the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame; to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses the door frame was cemented. And to remove it, you will have to break the cement with a hammer.

To facilitate door installation, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. To complete the preparation, we clear the doorway of construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, you can immediately begin measuring it.

Taking measurements, choosing, purchasing

To purchase the right door, you will need the height and width dimensions, as well as the dimensions of the doorway slopes. Since in most cases the doorway has jagged edges, then you should take measurements in several places and select smallest size.

We lay the flooring for correct installation boxes

Important! When taking dimensions, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. It is recommended to install doors after installation flooring, if there is not one yet, then the dimensions should include the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door. For a more visual measurement, you can place parts of the flooring in the doorway. This is necessary to know the exact level of the floor; the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and plastered, you can order the doors. As a rule, doors have standard size s, but if necessary you can do it individual order based on the size of the doorway.

To choose the right the right doors, you need to know their types and intended purpose. For installation in a house, you should pay attention to entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - lining and internal filling. Power structure or the skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and inner space is filled in.

There are several door designs - solid, paneled and smooth.

Smooth doors, they are also panel doors, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and cladding method. The most practical and affordable are doors covered with laminate. Painted doors can be either cheap or expensive. It all depends on the type of material and painting method. The most expensive are doors lined with natural veneer.

Paneled doors stand out for their open design and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, as well as other materials. They are made from solid massif valuable species wood or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most accessible ones are made from soft types of wood, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from valuable wood. This affects primarily their price and weight; they are quite high. The doors are coated with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the necessary doors and received them, we proceed to the step-by-step installation of the doors.

After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, trim, door frame, extensions, and fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not cut in, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparing places for attaching the lock and hinges

Installing the door leaf on the floor for ease of cutting with a milling cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, you should mark and select with a milling cutter or chisel the place where the hinges and lock will be attached to the door leaf and the vertical post. To do this, we install the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special stands. To avoid damaging the canvas, the inside of the stands is upholstered with fabric. We apply the lock and use a pencil to mark the location of its installation. To make it convenient to use the lock, install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, measure 200 mm from the bottom and top edges of the door. We attach the loops and mark the place for milling. By using hand cutter or chisels, we select the excess so that the hinges and lock lie flush. We put them back and use a drill to drill holes for the screws.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place where the hinges are attached and the place for the lock tongue and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. We attach the hinges and drill holes for the screws.

Important! After cutting with a milling cutter or chisel, the places for the lock and hinges must be treated with varnish. In this simple way the tree will be protected from the influence of moisture. It should be remembered that the input and heavy doors are attached on three hinges, and for interior ones two hinges will be enough.

Installing hinges and lock

When the locations for the lock and hinges have been selected with a milling cutter, you can begin installing them.

With loops things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

Mortise lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to fit correctly, it is applied to the side of the door and holes for handles, shutoff valves and fastenings are marked as if using a stencil. Using a cutter or chisel, select the location for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and screw it on.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door frame. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

When starting to assemble the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical posts and trim them using a miter box. Horizontal bars are made to fit the size of the door leaf.

Since assembling the box requires a large amount of free space, the assembly process itself is carried out on the floor. To avoid accidentally damaging the door frame on the floor, we place two or three wooden slats along the entire length of the door leaf.

We attach the horizontal crossbar to the posts. The connection points can be lightly tapped with a hammer to better connection, and using a screwdriver we fix the box by screwing the screws into corner connections.

Important! There are doors with a ready-made door frame. Installation of such doors is very simple. IN in this case the door frame is simply adjusted to the doorway and secured in it.

Fastening additional parts

If the door width is several centimeters smaller door slope, extras should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make the slopes, and chips and dirt will appear on them over time. Therefore, installing extensions in such cases is the best way out of the situation.

As extensions, planks of the same color as the door, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm, are used. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges that coincide with the edges of the wall.

Installation of the accessory is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical trim strips to the height of the box, as well as the horizontal trim strip. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then install the trim strips into the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks themselves to the slope using dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of a door frame in an opening

Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We place the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each post and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination by lightly hitting the wedges. Now you can secure the box. To do this, use a drill or hammer drill to drill holes in the rack and wall. All that remains is to install the dowels and screw the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! It is better to make the wedges from wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging the door leaf

After installing the frame, we begin hanging the door. First of all, we screw the loops onto the previously prepared places. For this purpose, so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in the hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece hinges, but they are used less frequently. In the case of a rod embedded in the hinge, the door leaf can be installed or removed by simply lifting it gently small height rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow the doors to be raised, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply attach them to the frame and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable pin, you need to remove the pin from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors suspended, and the second secures the permanent hinges using self-tapping screws or guides them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with polyurethane foam, thereby increasing the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and can be easily applied to any surface, and thanks to it astringent properties the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, you should protect the door frame from foam that accidentally gets on it. To protect the box, it is covered with film or masking tape. If foam does get on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and abrasions.

Polyurethane foam has the property of increasing in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between the vertical posts or thick cardboard is placed between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Before you start filling the foam container, shake it thoroughly for a minute. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and outside the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

To ensure against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply polyurethane foam in two stages. During the first pass, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess polyurethane foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! If the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the tube of the polyurethane foam sprayer can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, to fill all the voids efficiently.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we fill in the free space suitable material(wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create its own support. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of platbands and door fittings

At the final stage of door installation, the installation of platbands is performed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same 45-degree trim for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can secure the platband using small nails or universal mounting adhesive.

Applying glue to the platband

Installing a platband on a door frame

How to install it yourself

For a specialist, installing an interior door is not a problem. But if you are making repairs yourself, you may have a question: how to install the doors yourself so that they reliably perform all their functions. This article will help you understand this issue. Let us immediately note that we will talk about wooden doors from the array.

The door installation technology differs only in that before selecting the recesses for the hinges it is necessary sharp knife trim and remove the veneer layer so as not to damage the coating. As for expensive interior doors, if you do not have installation skills, it is better to entrust this work to specialists. So, let's take a closer look at how to install it yourself.

A wooden frame and platbands usually come complete with the door leaf. If you bought only the canvas, you will need to separately purchase the door frame (see), additional elements, trim, and self-tapping screws for assembly.

In addition, you will need following materials and tools:

• Anchor bolts for fastening the box into the opening.
• Wooden or plastic wedges.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Building level.
• Drill or screwdriver.
• Wood saw, miter box and chisel.

Before you start work, carefully read the instructions on how to install an interior door yourself + watch the video, which will help you better understand the details.

Installation steps

Determining the dimensions of the openings

Having decided which doors you want to install in your home, take care to fit the openings in load-bearing walls and partitions for them. Or if the extension is in load-bearing wall impossible, adjust your plans.

Having information about what kind of doors you will have - dimensions with frame - when constructing plasterboard partitions, builders will be able to immediately build the necessary openings by installing metal profiles at a certain distance. It will not be difficult to maintain the specified dimensions when constructing walls made of bricks, concrete blocks and other materials.

It is more difficult to comply with the necessary parameters already existing. But if this is not done, there is a high probability that the door with the frame will not fit into the opening. And repairs after installation will have to be redone, eliminating large gaps between the frame and the wall, re-gluing the wallpaper or repainting the walls.

What do you need to know to calculate openings?

Need to know:

For reference:

Typically thresholds are set to entrance doors to prevent heat leakage. But it is advisable to use them for doors to bathrooms for protection. living rooms from accidental leaks.

Knowing all this data, calculating the parameters of the opening will not be difficult. For example, consider the following standard ones: box size – 25 mm thickness and 40 mm width; canvas size 800x2000 mm.

By adding to the width double the thickness of the box and the dimensions installation gap, which is usually 15 mm on each side, you will get the opening width: 800 + 2x15 + 2x25 = 880 mm. If the platbands are wide enough, then this size can be a little larger - the gap between the wall and the frame will be blocked by the platband.

Attention! It is necessary to install gaps of 5-10 mm in the lower part to ensure air exchange. If the house is supplied with liquefied gas, then for kitchen doors the gap increases to 15-20 mm to ensure ventilation.

So, the height of the opening into which the door we have chosen with a frame without a threshold will be installed (see), is calculated as follows: 2000 + 25 +15 + 10 = 2050 mm.

To the data obtained, it is advisable to add the amount of gap that must be left between the door leaf and the frame, but since it is only a few millimeters, it can not be taken into account in rough calculations.

A few words about why we need data on the width of the box. The fact is that installation is only possible in an opening of the appropriate thickness. If it is smaller than the width of the box, then the latter will have to be sawn lengthwise so that it does not protrude beyond the plane of the wall.

And this inevitably leads to deterioration in quality and appearance. In addition, not all boxes can be subjected to such rough adjustments. If the thickness of the opening exceeds the width of the box, you will need to take care of purchasing extras.

Installing the door frame

If the main repair work has come to an end, the doors have been purchased (the dimensions with the frame correspond to the openings), and there is no extra money left or you simply do not want to wait for the master, then you can install the frame yourself (see). After this, hanging them will not be difficult.

The door frame is assembled as follows:

1. Place the vertical bars of the box on a flat, clean floor with the flaps up and insert the door leaf into them. Place pieces of packaging cardboard or strips of hardboard between the ends of the canvas and the rebates to provide a gap. Align the top ends of the bars with the top of the canvas.
2. Attach the top crossbar to the ends of the vertical bars, align it with one of the racks and mark the length of the element along the edge of the second rack with a pencil. Then saw off the excess with a hacksaw or jigsaw.
3. Attach the crossbar to the posts again and make internal parties marks on the pretend part. On the crossbar porch, make cuts along the marks using a hacksaw to make the cut smooth and neat. Chip away the excess wood and clean up the area with a chisel.
4. Using a thin drill, drill holes in the crossbar and screw it to the posts with self-tapping screws.

Assembling the door frame yourself

Attention! The described sequence of work is applicable only for doors whose door frames have rectangular section. To assemble a box with a complex shaped section, the posts and crossbar must be sawn at an angle of 45 degrees.

1. Saw off the frame posts to the height, taking into account the gap between the floor and the bottom of the panel. Please note that the box should not stand on the floor; it is fixed at a height of 1-2 mm from the clean floor to provide it with moisture and thermal expansion.
2. Place the box in the opening, securing it with wedges, and align the posts and crossbar level in two planes. To ensure correct installation, measure the diagonals - they should be equal.
3. After testing the door leaf, secure the frame in the opening with anchor bolts.

Using spacer wedges

Installation of door leaf

Many instructions have been written on how to install interior doors yourself, but there are nuances in this matter that come with experience.

1. At a distance of 20-25 cm from the top and bottom edges, make markings for hinges (see) on the frame and the end of the door leaf, accurately comparing all dimensions and not forgetting about the technological gaps.

1. Using a milling machine or chisel, make indentations for the hinges. The plane on which the hinges are attached must be perfectly flat.
2. Disassemble the hinges and screw their lower parts (with the bushing) to the frame, and the upper parts (with the leg) to the door.
3. Lubricate the hinge feet with graphite grease or machine oil and hang the door leaf. Check for correct installation.
4. Before filling the gap between the frame and the opening with foam, place additional spacers just above the door handle and next to the hinges. Apply foam thin layer, having previously covered the door with film and moistened the opening with water from a spray bottle.
5. After the foam has completely dried, cut off any excess foam and protruding parts of the wedges.

Main stages of installation

Classic product installation technology includes several main stages, regardless of the chosen type of interior door:

1. Installation of the box (installation in the opening).
2. Installing the door leaf.
3. Installation of additional elements.

Correct installation of interior doors with your own hands is done using power tools - drill, screwdriver, hammer drill.

If you need to saw the platbands lengthwise, it is recommended to prepare circular saw"parquet" type. In addition, a miter saw or wood hacksaw, a building level, a hammer, a pencil, a tape measure, a nail puller, a spray bottle with water, a mallet, a miter box, chisels and consumables will be useful for installation:

• screws, dowels;
• masking tape;
• polyurethane foam;
• wooden spacers and wedges.

Advice! Experienced craftsmen use a plumb line when installing a door and prefer a wooden mallet, since a rubber mallet leaves marks. To secure the box in the opening, it is better to use dowels, and for hinges, yellow-passed or galvanized self-tapping screws. Standard “standard” self-tapping screws, which are supplied with the product, are not recommended for use in installation.

It is better to make wedges for fixing the product during the installation process from bars and boards. Preliminary preparation Wedges of several sizes can be a waste of time, since the exact parameters of the products are determined “by situation” - during the installation process.

Step 1. Assembling the box

First you have to assemble the interior doors with your own hands - connect the parts with self-tapping screws. Before starting assembly, it is recommended to trim the gaps taking into account the floor covering. For residential premises, it is recommended to maintain a gap of 10 mm.

Assembly order:

1. Saw down the lintel beam under the hinged one: attach two timbers, mark a line, make a cut and carefully chip off the end with a chisel.
2. Connect the beams(loop, lintel) in a right angle using self-tapping screws.
3. Cut the loops into the loop beam.
4. Connect three beams, put on the door and adjust the lintel element.

Advice! When fixing the box, experienced craftsmen use pieces of cardboard or hardboard of the same thickness as spacers. Thanks to this trick, optimal gaps of 3–4 mm are provided between the edge of the door and the frame (bars). The main thing when using this method is to ensure that when screwing in the screws, the wedges do not “dangle” in the box.

The most critical area of ​​work at this stage is the insertion of fittings, the quality of which determines the convenience of further operation of the door. Useful invention To help the “homemade” person there are goats - a device made of cardboard and pieces of wood that will hold the door in place.

Executed sequentially:

Helpful advice: the chisel must be held at an angle of 45 across the recess and hit the tool with sharp blows. After the required depth has been formed, it is recommended to set the chisel vertically on the line and trim the edges - cut the canvas from the marks from top to bottom and clean out the recesses.

• Hang the door: first place the hinge in the upper slot, mark the hole for the screws and fix the hinges (see). After this, you need to install the canvas in the box, wedge it and apply markings to the jamb. Final stage work - fastening the hinge sash with screws;
• Marking the lock, spindle and keyhole on the end of the door. The height of the marking can be varied at your discretion, the main thing is to correctly mark the dimensions of the lock on the front sides and mark the position of the well;
• Drill holes for the well and spindle, a slot for the lock, clean it and align the edges;
• Fastening the lock with screws, installing handle covers and fastening.

The last stage of work on inserting a lock is attaching the receiving escutcheon:

1. Close the door;
2. Mark the position of the tongue on the jamb;
3. Hang the overlay and measure the distance to the front side;
4. The markings must be transferred to the jamb, attach the overlay and trace with a pencil.

The last stage of work is to make a recess and screw the part to the jamb. The slots for the latch and tongue are made with a chisel, after which the stoppers can be secured.

Step 2. Installation of the box

Secure the upper part of the box with wedges, installing wooden products at the level of the junction of the pillar and transverse parts. To fix the lower part, it is necessary to align the hinge side and check the correct installation in two planes (vertically, horizontally) using a level.

Then fix the opposite side of the box and firmly install the spacer opposite the lower wedges.

Step 3. Installation of the canvas

At this stage, you will have to install the interior doors yourself: hang the panel and check the functionality. The door should close smoothly, without spontaneous closing/opening in the ajar position.

The last stage is the application of polyurethane foam into the space of the box with the opening.

Note! Foam can damage the varnish of the door leaf, so it is recommended to seal the frame with tape before applying the composition. In addition, when drying, the foam increases several times in volume, which must be taken into account when installing the canvas, strictly observing the recommended gaps.

At this stage, every millimeter is important, since if the opening is reduced to less than 2 mm, for example, to 1.5 mm, the door will not close, and if it is larger, the gap and part of the interior of the adjacent room will be visible. Since foam, depending on the type chosen, can “behave” differently, it is recommended to reduce the risk of side effects- significant squeezing of the box slats.

For this experienced craftsmen apply the polyurethane composition in the thinnest layer possible. The time for the foam to completely dry is indicated on the can, after which you can carefully remove the wedges or trim the woodwork, remove the spacers and cut off the protruding foam with a knife.

Step 4. Installation of additional elements

Additional elements must be prepared: measure the distance to the wall, taking into account the groove, and cut the strip using a jigsaw or hacksaw.

After this, you need to insert the bar into the groove and foam it at several points. It is more difficult to install an interior door with your own hands if standard width the planks will not allow you to cover the width of the opening. In this case, you will have to connect several additional elements.

Step 5. Installation of platbands

The last stage of installation is beautiful design openings on the sides and top decorative elements- platbands (see). After the DIY installation of interior doors is completed and the foam has completely dried, having firmly secured the additional elements, you can begin preparing the platband:

• Determine the required length;
• Cut the part at an angle of 45 using a miter saw;
• Drill holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm for nails;
• Secure the part with finishing nails.

If you are going to install interior doors with your own hands with a platband with a “beak,” then the installation process is simpler: you don’t need to file down the part, just remove the part of the “beak” at the top, insert the product into the groove and secure it with liquid nails. Upon completion of installation, the interior door is ready for use.

The final stage of door installation

To make the doors look aesthetically pleasing, you need to do something else. If the thickness of the opening in which the interior door is installed turns out to be wider than the frame, then it will have to be

To do this, use a cutter to select a quarter of 10x10 mm in the box for attaching an additional board to it. Finally, the door needs to be framed with platbands.

Measure their length, cut the corners at 45 degrees using a miter box and nail the trim to the box with finishing nails. Or glue them to the wall with liquid nails.