Once upon a time, only a professional could make an arch. This was before the advent of drywall. Now even a beginner can make an arch from plasterboard. You don’t need a special tool for this, the technology itself is simple and straightforward - just follow our instructions.

Where to begin

The most common arches simple shapes- parts of a circle or oval. These are the ones that are best suited for most traditional styles interior, where regular shapes and symmetry are welcomed. In addition, they are easiest to make with your own hands.

1. Classic round arch. 2. Modern. 3. Romance. 4. Ellipse. 5. Trapezoid. 6. Half-arch

But first you need to decide whether the height of the arch will be sufficient. And if for a niche in the wall the dimensions do not play a special role, then for the passage between rooms the ratio of the width of the arch and the distance from the floor to the point where the arch meets the wall of the opening matters a lot.

The wider the opening in which the arch is formed, the larger the bending radius will be required so that the shape of the arch is proportionate

Usually they are guided by the simple ratio of a standard interior door - 80-100 cm width by 200 cm height. That is, a rectangle of this size must be inscribed in a “pure form” in the plane of the opening, taking into account the arch. Following this rule, you can determine that the width of the opening is:

• 100 cm corresponds to the height of the lower points of the arch about two meters;
• 200 cm - about 180 cm;
• 300 cm - about 160 cm.

It follows from this that if an arch is made where a standard interior door stood, then the height of the opening will have to be increased.

The easiest way is to arrange an arch in a new place during redevelopment, when interior partitions are reinstalled. And here we must remember the recommended distance from the top point of the arch to the ceiling - usually it is 40-60 cm. Often the height of the ceilings does not allow the arch to be “fitted” in accordance with this rule, and this point is raised a little higher. But even in this case, you should not reduce the clearance to a ceiling level of less than 30 cm.

Once the approximate values ​​for the connection points with the opening and for the height of the arch are established, the arch in the opening can be modeled using available means and make sure that it corresponds to the general design.

It is convenient to use a special plastic corner for arches, which will ultimately be used when finishing the opening

One of simple ways modeling is the use of a long strip of flexible material as a pattern, for example, plastic skirting board with hard edges. The plinth is applied with its edges at the lower points of the arched opening, bent to the height of the arch, and, if necessary, the shape of the arch is changed, adjusting the degree of bending. Mark the points at which the arch meets the opening and place corresponding marks on the plinth.

Plasterboard blanks

For the walls of the arch, you need to cut out two rectangles from plasterboard. The dimensions of the workpiece are the width of the opening and the distance from the junction point of the arch in the opening to the ceiling of the opening itself (or to the ceiling for new partitions).

Then, on one of the blanks, using a plinth, the shape of the arch is modeled. To do this, align one of the marks on the plinth with the corner of the workpiece and bend it until the second mark aligns with the corner of the workpiece opposite in width. Draw an arc on the workpiece with a pencil and cut out the first wall. And it will serve as a template for cutting out the second wall.

To obtain a sector along the radius, it is better to use an awl, a nail and a pencil tied with thread or rope. The length of the thread from the pencil to the nail will determine the radius of the sector.

L is the width of the opening, H is the height of the arch, R is the radius of the sector, D is the supply of material equal to the thickness of the finishing of the ends of the opening

If an ellipse is needed, then two nails are fixed on the arch blank along the long side, departing the same distance from both sides by about 10-15 cm. A thread is tied to the nails so that it hangs freely, and when pulled along the edge of the sheet, it reaches its edge . The pencil is wound by the thread and the shape of the arch is outlined.

For the vault of the arch, you can use a strip of ceiling plasterboard (it is thinner, only 9.5 mm), but the remainder of a standard sheet is also suitable, since with a small width of the strip it is not difficult to give it the required shape. The size of the blank for the vault is equal in length to the distance between the marks on the plinth, and in width - the thickness of the wall in the opening. The narrow sides of the workpiece are cut at the ends along one side of the corner so that the arch fits more tightly at the ends of the walls of the opening.

Formation of the arch frame

The supporting frame for the walls is usually made of a metal rack profile. Depending on the materials of the partition and its thickness, the width of the profile may vary.

So, if the arch is mounted in an opening where the walls are made of gypsum plasterboard, then they use the same CW rack profiles that are in the supporting structure. In this case, the profiles are secured in the opening with metal screws.

For walls made of bricks, building blocks (gas or foam concrete, gypsum), monolithic concrete The width of the rack profile is selected individually. It is often easier to use a double frame (one for each wall of the arch) from a narrow CW profile with a back of 50 mm than to select a wide profile for a single frame. Dowels are used for fastening to the wall, and a different type of fastener is selected for each material. If the frame is mounted from a narrow profile, the holes for the dowel are drilled at an angle to prevent the edge of the opening from crumbling.

For side racks, the profiles must have a length equal to the distance from the ceiling of the opening to the points of connection with the arch. Since the arch “fits” in the opening to the partition at an angle of less than 90°, the lower corners of the profile are trimmed so that they do not protrude beyond the edge of the walls of the arch.

If the frame is mounted in a gypsum board partition, then you can clearly see how it needs to be secured so that the arch is flush with the wall surface.

For partitions made of other materials, when attaching the frame, you need to step back from the edge of the wall at a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard plus the thickness of the finish (which is at least 1-2 mm per layer of putty for wallpapering or painting).

If the wall has a layer decorative plaster or lined with wall panels, then the fastening of the frame should go to the main material of the wall so that the walls of the arch are in the same plane with the surface of the partition itself, and not its decorative finishing. This rule is followed on each side of the arch.

Arch installation

The walls of the arch are fastened with self-tapping screws with a distance between fastening points of 15 to 25 cm, but not less than three points on each side. The distance from the corner to each extreme fastening point should be within 5-10 cm, and the fastening line should be 15-20 mm from the edge of the arch wall.

If the arch has built-in lighting, then the wires should be laid in advance, leaving leads or loops at least 15 cm long

After both walls are secured, two strips of an arched profile are screwed to them from the inside through drywall to secure the vault. If there is no arched profile, then it is made from a CD profile, symmetrically cutting wedges on the sides at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other.

To bend a strip of workpiece into an arc, it is moistened with a sponge on both sides before installation. Then they roll it on one side with a needle roller (another way is to prick it with an awl over the entire surface by 1/3 of the thickness of the sheet) and wet it again only along the perforated side. Place it on the floor at an angle to it and the wall. When the workpiece begins to bend under its own weight, it is screwed into place to the arched profiles.

Finishing work

The final stage begins when the vault is dry:

• the surface of the drywall is primed;
• seams and joints with the wall are reinforced with serpyanka, and the ribs of the vault are reinforced with a plastic perforated corner;
• putty, rubbing the attachment points, seams and joints;
• “bring out” the corners of the ribs;
• dried and polished.

The arch is ready. You can start decorating.

Thanks to drywall you can make an arch of any shape When the interior doors are removed, there remains an opening with a door frame installed in it, but this situation is by no means attractive. Replacing the entire structure with a plasterboard arch is the most rational option in in this case, and it has many advantages. At the same time, anyone can build an arch in their apartment; the installation process is simple, and it can be done by a master of any level; it is enough to have all the necessary tools and a great desire. Step-by-step instructions will help you create a design of any type and complexity.

The choice of the type of arch depends on its location, that is, which rooms it divides, from general interior the entire room, as well as the height of the ceilings. Before starting work, you need to select the shape of the arch. All stages of the work will depend on what type of arch it will be.

Before you start making an arch, you need to buy drywall, screws, a metal profile and the necessary tools

What types of arches are there:

• Domed symmetrical arch;
• Arch with an offset center of an asymmetrical design;
• Gothic arch;
• Openwork arch;
• Multi-level arch;

The domed one is considered the most common type, it is chosen much more often, and can be found almost everywhere. Its installation can be considered the simplest. Asymmetrical is the most economical, since it requires reconstruction of one part of the wall and the top of the doorway.

The dome of the Gothic arch is sharp and asymmetrical in appearance, so the calculations are relatively simple, but installation requires some skill. An openwork design requires a lot of space. It is distinguished by its unusual shape and theme. That the walls around her are decorated with various holes. The most difficult option is multi-level. To implement such a project, you must have creative and design skills, and also require great experience working with drywall. Door arches of this type are individual and are created in a single project.

It is imperative to remember that the arch must be appropriate and that its design takes up some space.

If in the initial conditions there is a doorway height of up to 2 m, then the arch in this case is absolutely wrong decision. In this case, you can simply decorate the shape of the top of the doorway. Knowing how to install the simplest type of arch, you can improve your skill and build the most complex design on one's own.

How to make a plasterboard arch with your own hands

Before you start construction works with your own hands, you need to purchase construction tools and materials. The doorway must be thoroughly prepared. Preparation before installation work involves dismantling the old door frame. This is a mandatory stage, since the arch requires more area and space, and the box takes up a lot of space. The disassembled and cleared doorway must be cleaned. If the surface may crumble or break off, then all such areas are removed.

An excellent solution is to equip a plasterboard arch with spotlights

Cleared:

• All the dust;
• Dirt;
• Pieces of wallpaper.

The elements of the arch may differ, but the most common version consists of 3 parts: 2 side parts and a curved top one. It is necessary to measure the width of the doorway, and thus calculate the bending angle of the upper part. In most cases, the side parts must be made absolutely identical.

It is very easy to depict the top part with your own hands.

It is believed that this is the most difficult, but it is recommended to draw a kind of compass using thread, pencil, and an awl. We take a dense thread, the length of the calculated radius, fasten an awl on one side to the loop, and on the other side a drawing tool - a pencil or some other. We firmly insert an awl into the gypsum board sheet, and draw the outline of the arc with tension on the thread. Next, you can cut out the arch blank special knife from a profile on plasterboard. The second part must match completely; its outline is drawn using the first part as a template.

Instructions: how to make an arch from plasterboard

After installation is completed, the arched structure must be completed, that is, decorative processing must be completed. Finishing options can be varied, but there are some steps that are not recommended to be skipped.

Before creating an arch from plasterboard, you should draw it on paper, indicating all the dimensions

Namely:

1. The finished arch should be processed with sandpaper, rubbing out all the irregularities and roughness.
2. The joints are glued with a special adhesive tape; this action will greatly strengthen the structure.
3. All seams are sealed with seam putty.
4. The layers of putty are dried under normal conditions, and all irregularities are smoothed over with sandpaper.
5. The entire structure is primed.
6. After all layers have dried, apply finishing special composition.

Since the structure is round, but has many corners, they need to be further strengthened. It is recommended to use a metal profile for this, which will protect the drywall from possible mechanical influences.

The profile is attached to putty and covered with it on top.

All steps must be strictly followed. Thus, the interior structure is strong and reliable, and ready for finishing with any material. It is necessary to decorate the arch in accordance with the interior of the rooms to which the arch belongs. This could be water-based paint, wallpaper or other wall decoration elements.

Making an interior arch with your own hands step by step

The most important step in creating an arch is the installation of the frame. Step-by-step instructions will make making the arch much easier. It is carried out according to a certain principle. We take the material for production - metal profile. The guides are attached to the dowels at the top of the opening, and then on the sides until the arch is rounded. The profile is easily amenable to physical influence; you can bend it in any way you like. Cuts are made on the profile, and based on a plasterboard template, it is given the required shape.

The size for the interior arch should be chosen depending on the area of ​​the room

In order for the frame structure to be very strong, it is necessary to additionally attach additional pieces of the profile between the arcs with dowels. After installing the frame, you can begin installing drywall. The side elements are fixed first, and then we proceed to the installation of the curved elements. The lower part of the curved element is cut from the sheet, having previously measured door frame flexible centimeter. 10 cm is added to the length of this element.

The end element must be bent carefully to prevent damage to the material. The top surface of the drywall is wetted and pierced. You need to wait a little so that the element gets wet well. Next, it is attached to the desired place with adhesive tape and remains in this position for some time, then screwed with self-tapping screws.

Making a plasterboard arch with your own hands (video)

The finished structure made of metal profiles and plasterboard is left for a day until completely dry. Thus, the arch is ready for finishing decoration. Doing it right will result in a great design.

Interior doors are not always convenient. If they are not kept closed all the time, the canvas takes up space and spoils the interior. Many users prefer to abandon the door and decorate the opening in a decorative style. A favorite design option for an opening is the arch, an attractive traditional element that can be made different ways. Let's look at how to make a plasterboard arch with your own hands.

Types of interior arches

The arch has many varieties. From a design point of view, it is an opening with straight sides and a curved top. There are different versions of arches, which differ mainly in the configuration of the top crossbar. Less common are more complex structures in which the lateral sides are also forming elements. Let's look at the most popular options for plasterboard arches.

Round

This form of opening is considered classic. Externally, these are arches with the upper part representing half a circle. Such elements look attractive only with a certain opening width. Too narrow ones look unnaturally elongated, while wide ones, on the contrary, look flattened. When choosing this option, you should draw the future arch to scale and decide whether this shape is suitable or not.

Rectangular

Another name for a rectangular arch is a portal. This is, in fact, an ordinary doorway, only without door leaf and with smooth side walls. As a rule, such structures are distinguished on the plane of the wall. Use contrasting colors and embossed details. The design is done under natural wood or a stone, which looks very advantageous. From a design point of view, the portal is one of the most simple types arches that do not require frame bending.

Elliptical

Elliptical arches look more attractive than round ones. Their upper part is half of a horizontal ellipse. At the same time, there are varieties where the vertical side planes are exactly conjugated with the upper curved element, and there are options where an angular transition remains between the side and upper elements. An opening decorated with an elliptical arch looks wider and more proportional.

Arabic or oriental

The shape of the Arabic arch differs from other types by the presence of a corner element in the center of the upper part. Typically, the sides blend smoothly with the sides. There are more complex options, when the top of the arch is made in the shape of an onion and is slightly wider than the vertical sides. To assemble such an arch, you need a fairly high opening, since the side parts are much lower than the center.

Trapezoidal

This form consists only of rectilinear elements. It is a rectangular opening, the upper corners of which are cut off by inclined parts. If you conditionally separate the top, it will have the shape of a trapezoid. This option is suitable for any room. Its advantage is that the frame does not require curved parts. This significantly speeds up the assembly and finishing of the arch.

Curly

These arches can have any shape - symmetrical or asymmetrical, with straight elements or without them at all. Making curly arches from plasterboard with your own hands is the most difficult thing, since you will need to make a complex frame, install many curved elements from plasterboard and all this should be properly leveled and finished. However, if all the work is carried out by qualified craftsmen, the results are very impressive. The main condition for success will be a well-developed design. The shape of the arch should not be overloaded with bends or additional details. If it is not immediately perceived as a whole, you need to simplify the configuration. Otherwise you will end up with something awkward or sloppy.

Important! If you have no experience, it is best to use a ready-made solution. It is recommended to look at photos of finished structures on the Internet and choose the appropriate option.

Backlit

Backlight like additional element often used in arch construction. LED point elements are used, located on the upper edge of the arch or (less often) on the side planes. The option is attractive, but requires correct selection number and power of lamps. It must be remembered that they are only decorative elements, so making them too bright is not recommended.

With shelves

This is one of the varieties of figured arches, side surfaces which have a curved shape. They are cut off by vertical or slightly curved elements, and between the main and additional surfaces horizontal shelves are installed. They are used for various purposes - from storing books to placing flowers, figurines, and lamps. There are a lot of design options for such structures, you can look at ready-made solutions and choose one of them.

Corner

This type is also called semi-arches. They represent an opening where one of the side planes is formed by the main wall, and a semi-arch is cut out in the adjacent one. An opening of this type can only be made in rooms where the wall is free of furniture. Otherwise, the curvilinear shape of the arch will visually conflict with the correct shape of furniture or other objects.

With niches

This is a type of figured arches, when one or more niches are made on a free section of the wall adjacent to the opening. They follow the shape of the side of the arch, or have their own configuration. These niches do not have any particular practical value, being purely decorative elements. Sometimes they are stylized to resemble classical architectural forms, and figurines or other decorations are installed in them.

With columns and half-columns

This type of arch most often has a symmetrical shape, although there are also asymmetrical options. The columns cut off part of the sides, visually narrowing the opening. Such elements are usually used to reduce excess width, or to make the curve of the upper part more expressive. Making such arches with your own hands is not easy, since you will need columns, a strong frame, reliable connection all design details.

With edging

The edging of the arches is a kind of platband that frames the entire perimeter of the opening. There are homogeneous types of edging, or dissected options from individual, deliberately highlighted elements. Usually, interior, or, as they are also called, door arches made of plasterboard are designed in this way.

Attention! When choosing a suitable shape, you need to know how to make an arch with your own hands and have the skills to work with tools and materials. The more complex the shape of the opening, the more difficult it is to complete the work with the required quality. If you don’t have confidence in your abilities, it’s better to choose a simpler design.

What is needed for an arch

To assemble the arch you will need:

• frame made of metal guides. A complete set of these parts is available for sale. They are purchased in the required quantity and size;
• drywall of a certain type. There are several grades of material that can work in different conditions - waterproof, thin or thick, etc. making an arch from plasterboard requires the use of suitable material;
• cutting tool set metal profile(grinder, metal scissors, electric drill or screwdriver, etc.) and drywall processing (jigsaw, hacksaw with small tooth, grater, and other special tools);
• templates for bending frame parts and for making curved arch surfaces.

All tools, materials and devices can be purchased ready-made, or made independently. For example, graters for processing plasterboard structures can be easily made from tin cans. Templates for curved figures are also made by hand.

How to bend drywall?

Interior arches made of plasterboard have curved surfaces. To assemble, you have to bend the material, which requires skill and knowledge of technology. Let's look at how to bend drywall in different ways:

With humidification

Bending with moisture is a long and labor-intensive process, but when correct execution work, he gives the most top scores. The technique consists of cutting the outer (convex) surface stationery knife by 1/3 thickness. It is necessary to make several cuts in the transverse direction at an equal distance from each other. Another option is to roll the surface with a special needle roller. This is done for better penetration moisture into the material. The drywall is then moistened along the cut/pricked surface using a sponge or wet rag. Moistening is done several times after about 3-4 minutes, until the water stops being absorbed.

The sheet should not be soaked through. After this, the part is attached to the template, bent and fixed for holding. The part can be removed only after complete drying. The advantage of the method is the smooth surface of the bent element, which does not have “steps” and does not require leveling with putty.

No humidification

It is possible to bend the material without wetting it with water only within very small limits. For example, for a sheet with a thickness of 9 mm, the permissible bending radius is 2 m, and for sheets of 12.5 mm - 2.75 m. In addition, bending can only be done in the longitudinal direction; if bent across, the plasterboard will break.

If necessary, bend a part with a smaller diameter. The strip on the reverse side is cut with a stationery knife. Cut the layer of cardboard and plaster. Then a strip is attached to the frame, which takes the desired shape. After this, the surface is leveled using putty, softening the transitions of areas and removing “steps”. This takes time and effort, but you can work right away, without waiting for the material to dry.

Execution options

Interior or door arches made of plasterboard are made in different ways. Usually they decorate a ready-made doorway by removing the panel and dismantling the frame. If necessary, the door can be used in another place. Another way is to make an arch on a plasterboard wall, cutting off part of the room. Let's take a closer look at both options.

Finishing an existing opening

This option is relatively simple. A frame is inserted into the finished opening and sheathed on the outside. If the walls have already been finished, the frame is assembled taking into account the thickness of the drywall (already twice the thickness of the sheet). The main task is the correct choice of the shape of the arch and its proportions. Sometimes, if the opening is too narrow, you have to widen it. This increases labor costs, but gives the desired result.

Creating a partition with an arch

A partition with an arch is made in large rooms that need to be divided into two parts. Sometimes a similar solution is chosen to separate the hallway from the corridor. The whole process consists of building a partition. They install a wall frame with an opening under the arch, insulate it with mineral wool or other insulator, and cover it with plasterboard. Assembling the arch in this case becomes only part of the work. The advantage of this method is the ability to make an arch of any shape and size. Most of the figured samples are made using this method.

Attention! Insulation of the partition frame is a mandatory procedure. It is needed not only to conserve thermal energy, but also for sound insulation. Otherwise, all sounds will easily pass through the drywall.

Step-by-step instruction

To assemble a plasterboard arch with your own hands, you need experience and certain skills. If they are not there, step-by-step instructions will help, which sequentially describe all the stages of assembling and finishing the arch.

Design is one of the most complex issues. Every user wants to make a beautiful, spectacular arch. Inspired by examples from the Internet, he takes on the creation of complex structures that he finds himself unable to cope with. Therefore, when choosing the shape of the arch, it is useful to adhere to some rules:

• take into account the interior features of the room. Installation of an Arabic style plasterboard arch cannot be done in a room decorated in Hi Tech style;
• count your strength. Assembling an arch requires skills in working with tools and some experience in handling the material. Drywall has its own qualities; it is fragile and brittle. It must be bent and installed according to certain rules, which should be studied in advance;
• It should be remembered that the finished arch will slightly reduce the width of the opening. If it is not wide enough, you need to make sure that the finished design does not change it too much.

These tips will help you avoid mistakes and get the expected result.

Required material and tools

To make an arch you will need the following tools:

• jigsaw, circular saw, hand saw for cutting drywall;
• grinder, metal scissors for cutting frame guide strips;
• electric drill for drilling holes for self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• square, pencil, ruler for marking parts;
• grater, sandpaper for processing drywall joints.

Materials you need to purchase:

• drywall. It is necessary to choose a material suitable for working indoors. For example, if you are finishing a bathroom or balcony, you need moisture-resistant drywall;
• guides for drywall. These are metal components from which the arch frame is assembled;
• plastic or metal perforated corners for finishing the edges of the structure. They reinforce and strengthen drywall, prevent the destruction of corners;
• screws. Usually they use special self-tapping screws with a drill tip, but not all users like to work with them. For such elements you need suitable bits for a screwdriver;
• putty, spatulas;
• finishing material.

If you plan to install shelves, lighting or columns, you must additionally stock up on all the necessary parts and preparations.

Preparing the opening

Before you make a plasterboard arch with your own hands, you should prepare the surface of the opening. It is necessary to remove all foreign objects and dismantle the door frame (if there is one). The inner surface of the opening is cleaned of dust and deposits, and crumbling or peeling areas are removed. Then the surface is leveled and coated with a double layer of deep penetration primer.

Attention! If the opening is relatively level, it is not necessary to level it. After installation supporting structure It is enough to seal the remaining gaps between the wall and the frame parts with putty.

Side element finishing

Vertical surfaces are the main supporting structures to which the arch frame is attached. Therefore, we must pay special attention to their condition. If the wall is replete with cracks, peeling or detached areas, it must be cleaned and plastered. Sometimes the opening is too weak and does not allow the arch to be securely fastened. In such cases, they do the opposite - collect reinforced frame, which becomes the supporting element for the opening.

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How to make an arch from plasterboard - 5 stages of making an arched doorway

By doing overhaul in his apartment, probably every home owner has a desire to radically change the interior design that has been boring for many years for the better. From my experience, I can say that simply by simply gluing wallpaper or painting the ceiling and walls, it is unlikely that it will be possible to radically change the environment.

As an original addition to the visual redecoration, I propose to completely remove the interior doors, and instead leave an open arched doorway of an asymmetrical or classic semicircular shape. To help the reader cope with this simple work, later in this article I will talk about how to make a plasterboard arch with your own hands in a short time without significant financial costs.

Choosing the shape of the arched opening

The integration of a semicircular or figured arch into an existing doorway does not imply a violation of the integrity of the interior walls, and does not require redevelopment of the apartment, and therefore does not have any impact on bearing capacity building structures, and the whole house in general.

At the same time, such a solution will allow you to get rid of annoying rectangular shapes doors, will help visually enlarge usable area housing, and get a renewed visual perception of the surrounding space.

Starting from the next section, step-by-step instructions for making arches will be described here, but first I want to offer a choice of several options for the size and shape of the arch for an interior doorway:

1. A classic symmetrical arch with a semicircular arch is considered a universal option. It is quite simple to manufacture, and is well suited for the opening of any narrow single-leaf interior door;

1. An arched opening in the Art Nouveau style has a similar shape, but has a larger arc radius, since it is based not on a circle, but on an oval or ellipse. Due to the low height of the arch, this shape is well suited for wide openings from double doors in the living room, hall or hallway;
2. Gothic interior arches made of plasterboard have the same design, however, they differ from the two previous options by the presence of a sharp apex in an oval or semicircular arch;
3. A semi-arch of irregular asymmetrical shape can have almost any arch configuration, and is most often used for narrow doorways in the kitchen or hallway. This option is considered the most economical, since its production requires the least amount of materials;

1. An openwork arch is a complex structure in which, in addition to the entrance opening itself, there are small decorative through or blind openings intended solely for decoration. This option is usually installed in doorway in place of two-leaf or four-leaf entrance doors in the living room or bedroom;
2. A multi-level arch most often has an original author's design, which is developed strictly individually, in accordance with the conceptual style of the apartment and the personal preferences of the homeowners. Most often, this option is distinguished by smooth curved lines and the presence of figured decorative elements, which can be located at different levels relative to each other.

When choosing an arch shape for self-made, you should be guided not only by your imagination or beautiful pictures from interior design magazines. To get a high-quality final result, for the first time I advise you to choose an option that will suit your practical skills and financial capabilities.

Stage 1. Preparation and marking of the door opening

First of all, you need to draw a preliminary sketch of the doorway on paper or on a computer, on which the shape of the future arch should be clearly drawn. To facilitate further work, in addition to the general sketch, I recommend drawing a projection of the finished arch in three planes, indicating all the necessary dimensions.

You need to take measurements from a clean doorway in the light, so first you have to do some simple preparatory work:

1. Before you make a plasterboard arch yourself, you need to completely dismantle the old interior door, along with the decorative trim and wooden frame;

1. If, after removing the trim and frame, on the end surface of the wall or door slopes significant potholes, large chips, cracks or other construction defects are found, they need to be leveled and puttied with cement-sand mortar or putty mortar for interior work;
2. If the doorway after the construction of the house has an irregular shape, crooked slopes or indirect blocked internal corners, they also need to be leveled using cement-sand mortar;

1. After the putty solution has dried, you need to measure the width of the doorway in two places: one measurement is taken at the very top, and the second 500-600 mm below;
2. At the beginning of the rounding of the arch of the future arch, place a mark at the end of the wall and measure the distance from it to the horizontal upper plane of the opening. This size will be considered her height;
3. Before making an oblique arch, the marks on the right and left sides must be placed at different distances from the top of the opening, because in this case, the height of the arch on the right and left sides will not be the same;
4. On the vertical side ends of the wall, and on the horizontal upper slope, at a distance of 13-14 mm from the edge of the wall, two parallel lines should be drawn on each side. They will serve as marks for installing the metal frame.

All plasterboard sheets are produced according to a single standard, according to which they can have a thickness of 9 mm or 13 mm. To cover the front surfaces of the door arch, I recommend using sheets with a thickness of 13 mm, so all markings for installing the supporting frame must be done based on this value.

Stage 2. Installation of the supporting frame

The supporting frame for interior plasterboard structures is usually made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden blocks with a cross-section of at least 50x50 mm. Considering that our plasterboard arch will have curves and radius shapes, a metal profile is best suited for its manufacture, although in straight sections you can get by with wooden blocks.

For single-leaf doorways with thin interior walls, I recommend using a galvanized “CD” frame profile, which has a height of 27 mm, a width of 62 mm, and a blade length of 3000 mm. If the arch has a width of more than 1500 mm, then for its manufacture it is better to use a more powerful rack-mount profile of the “CW” type, the dimensions of which are 40x75x3000 mm.

1. Regardless of the chosen option, the manufacture of arches must begin with the installation of upper horizontal guides. To do this, two profiles must be cut from the whole whip, the length of which should be equal to the width of the doorway;

1. Next, you need to cut four more profiles, the length of which should be equal to the height of the arch. They must be secured vertically, one on each side of the end of the doorway;
2. Each vertical profile should be secured with inside from the drawn vertical marking line. After installation, you need to check that the distance between the front plane of each profile and the front plane of the wall is exactly 13-14 mm;
3. For attaching straight profiles to concrete or brick wall It is best to use plastic dowels measuring 6x30 mm and galvanized self-tapping screws with a wide head measuring 4.2x25 mm;
4. To make a figured arch vault, I advise you to prepare a template in advance. It can be cut from a large sheet of rigid corrugated packaging cardboard, a scrap piece of fiberboard, or thin;

1. The width of the template should be equal to the width of the doorway, and the upper part should exactly repeat the semicircle, semi-oval, or other figured configuration of the arch of the future arch;
2. To make the frame of the radius part of the arch with your own hands, you need to take two identical segments plasterboard profile. They must be cut with a small margin in length(300-500 mm longer than the length of the arc on the template), and after bending and final adjustment, accurately cut to the desired size;
3. The straightness and rigidity of the plasterboard metal profile is ensured by two longitudinal side ribs. In order to bend the lower profiles along the required radius and give them the correct arched shape, many radial cuts need to be made on the side ribs to the very base;

1. Profiles with cut side ribs must be bent along a given radius, and then cut to length exactly to the size of the doorway. It is convenient to do this by attaching them to the template, and you need to make sure that both profiles have exactly the same bending configuration;
2. After this, each curved profile must be secured at two points to the very bottom of the vertical guides, which are installed at the end of the doorway;
3. To combine the entire frame into a single solid structure, the radius profiles can be connected together with short transverse bridges. In addition, it is necessary to install several vertical jumpers between the upper horizontal and lower arcuate profile;
4. Three types of fastenings are used to connect the profiles to each other: short metal screws with a countersunk head, steel blind rivets, or a special punching tool that punches a hole in the walls of two profiles and then wraps the punched metal in different directions.

In shops building materials you can find a ready-made metal profile for curved plasterboard structures. It is a regular frame profile with cutouts and notches on the side stiffening ribs, thanks to which it can easily bend along the desired radius or take any curved shape.
Its price is not much higher than the cost of direct frame profile, so if there is such an opportunity, it is better to buy such a profile to make a radius arch.

Stage 3. Cutting and preparing drywall

The appearance and aesthetic properties of the finished arch will largely depend on how well the radius parts of the front plasterboard panels are cut. To cut a symmetrical semicircle, semi-oval or asymmetrical arc, I recommend using one of three methods. Regardless of the method chosen, the first step is to draw a rectangle on a sheet of drywall.

Its width should correspond to the width of the opening, and its height should be equal to the height of the future arch.

1. If we make a plasterboard arch of a symmetrical semicircular shape, then to draw the correct semicircle you will need to make a simple improvised compass.

• To do this, you need to find the center of the bottom side of the drawn rectangle, and tighten a small self-tapping screw at this point;
• Tie a thin nylon thread to the screw, and tie a pencil or thin marker to the other end of the thread;
• The distance from the center of the screw to the writing unit of the marker should be equal to half the width of the arch minus 14 mm;
• After making sure that the length of the thread strictly corresponds to the calculated size, you need to attach a marker to the bottom line on one side of the rectangle;
• After this, lightly tighten the thread and draw the marker along an arc to the bottom line on the other side of the rectangle. As a result, a symmetrical arch of a semicircular shape will be drawn on a sheet of gypsum board.

1. In order to draw a symmetrical semi-oval or part of an ellipse of the correct shape, it is most convenient to use a flexible elastic guide. This could be a long metal ruler, thin wooden slats, narrow plastic profile or water pipe:

• On both sides of the drawn rectangle, on the bottom side you need to put marks at a distance of 14 mm from each edge;
• Attach one end of the guide to one mark, bend it along the required radius, and also attach the second end to the other mark;
• In this position, it needs to be fixed motionless, so I recommend doing this work with one, or better yet, two assistants;
• While two people hold the guide on both sides, the third should make sure that it describes a symmetrical, regular arc, and draw a line along it from one edge to the other of the bottom side of the rectangle.

1. For those who are interested in how to make a semi-arch of any irregular shape in order to draw an asymmetrical curvilinear line on a sheet of plasterboard, I advise you to use the existing template.

• Just as in the previous case, on the bottom side of the drawn rectangle you need to place one mark at a distance of 14 mm from its edges;
• Attach the arcuate side of the template to the placed marks, and draw a curved line along it with a thin marker.

Plasterboard can be cut using a sharp construction knife, but for accurate cutting along a radius line it is best to use electric jigsaw and a wood saw with a slight tooth spread. To prevent the edge of the sheet from chipping, before cutting out any part from the drywall, I advise you to stick a wide strip of paper masking tape on the cutting line.

Stage 4. Assembling the arched structure

After both front panels are cut, they need to be aligned with each other and check how well they match each other. Ideally they should be exactly the same, therefore, if there is any discrepancy between them, it is better to immediately eliminate it using a knife, a coarse file or coarse sandpaper. After aligning the front panels, you can begin covering the supporting frame with plasterboard.

1. Each front panel must be installed at the same level in its place in the doorway, and secured around the entire perimeter and in the middle to the metal profile using countersunk screws, in increments of 100-120 mm;
2. When installing, you need to make sure that the front plane of each panel is flush with the plane of the wall. If the front panel is slightly recessed, then there is nothing to worry about; it can then be leveled using putty. The main thing is that it does not protrude forward anywhere, beyond the dimensions of the doorway;

1. Further instructions will help you make a figured vault of an arch from a strip of plasterboard, in one of two ways. In both cases, first you need to cut off a strip of drywall. Its length must be 100-200 mm greater than the maximum arc length of the arch, and the width should be equal to the distance between the front panels;
2. In the first case, the strip must be laid on a flat surface, bottom side up, and roll with a certain force with a needle roller so that the needles pierce upper layer thick cardboard. If there is no such roller, you can sharp knife evenly apply many small, barely noticeable notches to the bottom plane;
3. The perforated side of the drywall should be moistened generously with water using a foam sponge, and leaned against a vertical wall at an angle of 50-45°. Under the influence of water, the gypsum filler will begin to soften, and the strip will gradually take on a curved shape;

1. After some time (20-25 minutes), when the water is absorbed, the strip should be carefully placed on the floor, moisten the top layer with water again, then lean it against the wall again and leave alone for another 40-60 minutes;
2. After the strip becomes sufficiently plastic, it must be carefully attached with self-tapping screws on both sides to the arched metal profiles;
3. You need to start fastening from the middle, and gradually move towards the edges, mirror-tightening the screws, either on the right or on the left side of the arch. To prevent the formation of creases and edges, the pitch between the screws should be no more than 80 mm;
4. The second method makes it easy to bend drywall, but in this case small chopped edges are formed on the surface of the strip, which will need to be additionally puttied in the future;

1. Before installation, the strip must be laid on a flat, hard surface with the front side down, and on the reverse side, using a sharp knife, deep transverse cuts must be made to approximately the middle of the thickness of the drywall;
2. In order to achieve uniform bending, the cuts must be located strictly perpendicular to the center line of the strip, strictly parallel to each other, and at the same distance from each other;
3. The finished strip must be applied to the arch with the cuts facing upwards, and, just as in the first case, starting from the middle, fasten it to the arched profiles using self-tapping screws.

Despite the fact that the wet method of bending drywall may seem more complicated at first glance, I recommend using it, since in this case you immediately get a uniform arc without creases, a regular round shape, which does not require virtually any further modification.

Stage 5. Preparation for finishing

Immediately after the door arch is made from plasterboard with your own hands, it may seem ridiculous and scary, but do not be upset, because after completing the preparatory and finishing work, it will take on a completely different appearance.

1. First of all, you need to cut off all protruding corners and irregularities at the ends of the plasterboard parts with a sharp knife, and then treat them with coarse-grained emery cloth fixed in a special holder or on a flat wooden block;

1. In those places where plasterboard parts are joined together at right angles, you need to secure them with small perforated metal or plastic corners. They cover all the irregularities and cracks, allow you to get an ideal right angle, and also provide additional strength to the corner joint;
2. At the joints of two adjacent parts that are in the same plane, as well as at the junction of the front panels with the plane of the main wall, you need to glue a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which is also called serpyanka;

1. All self-tapping screws, joints, corners and cracks must be puttied in such a way that no reinforcing mesh, no corners, no joints, no fastening screws are visible on the surface. I recommend using acrylic for this finishing putty for drywall, which is sold completely ready for use;
2. After the first layer of putty has hardened, the arch must be sanded with medium-grain emery cloth. At this stage, some unevenness or other defects will certainly appear, so after preliminary sanding it will have to be puttied again;
3. After the second layer of putty has completely dried, the surface must be sanded with finer sandpaper, and after making sure there are no defects, coated with one layer of penetrating primer for drywall.

If you bent the drywall using a dry method, then to eliminate broken edges, the upper bent arch of the arch will need to be covered with a continuous layer of drywall starting putty. After drying, it will need to be sanded and covered with another layer of finishing putty.

Conclusion

In this article, I completely talked about how to make a plasterboard arch in a doorway with your own hands, and deliberately did not mention a word about finishing. The thing is that the appearance and design of the arch should generally correspond to the interior design concept. Therefore, the homeowner must choose the materials and method of decorative finishing himself, based on his own tastes and personal preferences. To consolidate the knowledge gained, I suggest watching the video in this article, and if readers have any questions, I will be happy to answer them in the comment form.

An elegant arch is an architectural element that can make any interior elegant and unique. A correctly chosen arch design will allow it to become the dominant point in the interior and collect the entire space of the apartment into a single whole. This article will tell you how to make a plasterboard arch without help professional builders and unnecessary investments.

Peculiarities

Arched openings appeared in the East. Gradually, the habit of replacing doorways with decorative arches migrated to Europe. This method of designing interior passages not only solves the issue of increasing the space of rooms due to the absence of doors in them, but also decorates it, giving elegance and style to the home, refreshes a boring interior, adding an original touch to it.

Having decided to make an arch yourself, you should pay attention to plasterboard, since this type of material is the easiest to install (after all, serious knowledge and experience is required to form an arched opening from plaster or plaster), is available on the market and is inexpensive.

The main advantages of plasterboard arches are:

• light weight of the material (arches can be installed both on load-bearing walls and on not very strong partitions, without fear for the reliability of the structure);
• quick and easy installation;
• quality of the material - soft but durable material allows you to experiment when creating a unique style of space and cut out any weird shape designs;
• camouflage property. Plasterboard structures in the form of arches allow you to hide technical components and communications in the room;
• the ability to separate functional parts of one room;
• functionality (drywall openings may have niches for books or recesses for indoor plants).

Kinds

A classic plasterboard arch is a structure installed between adjacent rooms and supported on the sides by columns. Bypassing the usual plasterboard option, you can create an original asymmetrical shape that emphasizes the modernity of the interior.

According to the shape of the vault, arched structures are classified into the following main types:

• Roman. The most common type of arch. Its semicircular arch will be appropriate in any interior;
• square or portal. They are used to decorate wide openings;
• trapezoidal. Also often used when decorating wide openings;
• ellipsoidal. This type is similar to the classic design, but with a larger radius of curvature at the corners;

• gothic It has an ovoid arch with a pointed apex;
• Turkish. Elaborate design in oriental style;
• British. This species strict forms are inherent. Will highlight the sophistication of any room;
• Thai or half arch. Asymmetrical vault: on the one hand there is a classic arch, on the other there is an arch in the form of a portal.

Modern designers, taking advantage of the excellent properties of the material, they produce completely original solutions. Interior arches are complemented by original lighting and LED lamps. These elements often play not only a decorative role, but also create additional local lighting in the apartment.

In addition to the lamps, there is another design technique, adding to the usual arched opening beneficial features: design of shelves and niches both inside the structure and on its external sides. This idea helps to create additional coziness, because souvenirs and family photos can be perfectly placed on small shelves.

For various rooms

Plasterboard arches in a modern interior are not uncommon. This architectural element allows you to abandon the usual doors, while creating a finished look for the doorway.

IN small apartments there is often not enough space for open doors. For this reason, instead of a door, a beautiful and laconic arch is installed in the opening. Such arches act as a kind of border between adjacent rooms where there used to be a door, and actually expand the free space.

The choice in favor of an interior arch is also made when redevelopment of the apartment is planned. For example, the exit from the kitchen to the balcony or from the living room to the kitchen can be designed in the form of an elegant arched opening. In this case, you have the opportunity to choose the shape of the opening you like (standard semicircle, trapezoid or other asymmetrical shape).

When it comes to expanding the space, it would be useful to think about replacing the doors with an arched opening in the hallway and corridor. These rooms serve more to connect rooms than to comfortable life in them, so there is no need to think about saving space when eliminating doors.

Often, in order to maintain the overall style of the apartment, all doorways are designed in the form of the same type of arches. This is not always true, and sometimes it will even overload the interior. But a couple of arched openings of the same shape in the upper part, one of which is complemented by an interesting configuration cut out of plasterboard on the wall, is a very stylish approach.

How to choose?

Previously, arches decorated only palaces and houses of wealthy people, but today this element can be found in any average apartment and even in a modern frame house(the wooden arch is cut down at the time of manufacturing the frame of the house itself).

When choosing an arch, you need to focus on its functional component. Arches can be active or passive. Passives are often found in residential buildings and perform the function of a simple transition, connecting two rooms. Their shapes are simple: ovals, portals or standard rectangles and trapezoids. Active arches require more complex shapes and often include additional decorative elements (shelves, lamps).

If you decide to replace a boring one metal door for an arch with a rounded top, experts recommend choosing a ready-made model, since in this case there is a question about the reliability of the structure.

Manufacturing

In order to make a classic arch with your own hands, you need to understand its structure and understand the subtleties of the technology for constructing this structure.

The curved arcs form the so-called vault of the arch. It can have a uniform coating or consist of various parts with gaps between them. You can revive a smoothly hemmed version of the arch vault using decorative relief and platbands on the edges of the arch.

The apex of an arch is the highest point of its arch. She serves power element designs. Often the top is also an aesthetic fragment (for example, in oriental vaults). The wings extend from the tops downwards, their ends rest on bearing structures– beds, which can also be decorated decoratively.

The span of an arched vault is the width of the arc formed by the wings. The height of this arc from the center of the span to the apex is called the boom of the arch. An arched vault usually rests on pilaster semi-columns or goes inside the walls, resting on the blades (in this case, this vault is called a hanging vault). The portal is formed by a structure located below the pilasters and blades.

The apex, arch arch and portal are the main visible components of the structure. They are called an arched transom. Usually the fragmula is designed in unified concept. The golden ratio of an arched structure is determined by the ratio F = (A + B) / B, if B≥A. This ratio in architecture is observed when A = 1/3 B. The arch will have the correct golden ratio, if its height is approximately three times the width of the arch opening, otherwise you can get the effect of reducing the height of the room and spoil the overall interior.

Detailed calculations and assembly are described in subsequent sections. But in addition to installation work, it is also worth paying attention to finishing work: how to design and what is the best way to sheathe the arch to give it a beautiful look.

The following can be used as decorative materials for arch design:

• plastic, molding - budget and simple options;
• polyurethane is a flexible material used to form stucco on pediments, ceilings, and cornices;
• decorative stone - an artificial or natural mineral. Most often used when decorating arches in load-bearing walls or monolithic structures.

As for plastic, everything is simple. Ready-made profiles can be bought in the store, choose desired color or paint it yourself and attach it to glue without much difficulty.

It is quite difficult to make polyurethane decor yourself, so they often resort to purchasing ready-made decorative elements. Stone cladding is an expensive but sophisticated option. The most commonly used stones are slate or shell rock. Acrylic artificial stone tiles are lighter in weight and can even be used for plasterboard partitions. As for texture, here, depending on the interior of the room and personal preferences, untreated surfaces and polished mirror versions of tiles can be used.

How to calculate?

When the task is to make an arch yourself, after the shape and size have been chosen, the master needs to first calculate the future product in order to determine the exact dimensions of the mounted parts. Do not be alarmed, since the calculations for this design are based on simple school formulas. When carrying out calculations, it is recommended to simultaneously draw a sketch of the future product on graph paper, after which the project is scaled to the specified dimensions of the product. As stencils, you can use thick cardboard or a profile sheet made of fiberboard. By attaching the template to the surface of the construction of a curved vault, you can more realistically assess the accuracy of previously performed calculations and, if necessary, correct it in time.

This article will consider an approximate calculation of a standard round arched vault for a straight doorway.

The main 3 parameters that should be known to the master are the width of the opening, the height of the future arch and the depth of the wall. There are two main methods of calculation: empirical and mathematical. The master himself decides which one will be more convenient for him. Calculation and drawing of the circumference of the arch must be carried out on paper on a scale 30% smaller than the real one.

When making an empirical calculation, you must first measure the door opening and transfer it to a sheet of paper. Draw the axis of symmetry of the doorway. Then they take a compass, place its leg on the axis point and make several different circles. The most suitable one is selected, and the remaining ones are removed using an elastic band.

When calculating the radius of an arch mathematically, the Pythagorean theorem is used:

R= L2 + (R2 – H2)

R= L2 + (R – H) 2

Transforming the formula, we get the following form:

R2 = L2 + R2 – 2HR + H2

Subtracting R we get:

L2 + H2 – 2HR = 0

After subsequent transformation we get:

Radius R as a result:

R = (L2 + H2) / 2H

Where R is the radius of the circle, L is half the chord of the arc (the size of this chord is equal to the length of the arch clearance). H – lifting height.

Due to the fact that the arch being made will include many fragments (in order to form them, you should take a board with the given dimensions), it is necessary to first calculate the dimensions of the element made from the board with the selected dimensions. The calculation is carried out from the reverse. It is necessary to calculate the maximum length of the part that will be made from an existing board with a certain width, taking into account the already known radius. Using the previous formulas, where all the relations are already known, you need to derive the following equality:

After the calculation has been completed and the project has been outlined, it will be possible to visually imagine what the structure will look like. If necessary, you can re-measure the parameters of the opening and easily correct the calculations, modify the drawing until its appearance is completely satisfactory to the craftsman.

How to cut?

When the project is ready, we begin scaling the product on drywall. While maintaining the proportions of the product, they draw out the layout of the arch within the given parameters. Cutting out a piece of drywall the right size. To do this, use a special knife to draw along the drawn line and break off excess pieces of drywall with your hands.

You need to prepare two identical sheets. One of them is placed on a flat surface and a line is drawn through the center. Make a mark 2-3 cm above the bottom of the sheet and screw in a bolt or self-tapping screw. A rope is put on the bolt, the free part of which is tightened into a loop and a pencil is inserted into it. This system(similar to a compass) will allow you to draw an even line of bending the radius of the arch. Having determined the desired radius, pull the cord and draw a bend line with a pencil.

After this, the markings are repeated in a similar way on the second sheet of drywall. To avoid unnecessary steps, you can cut out the product blank on one sheet, place it on another sheet and trace it with a pencil along the contour of the product. This way you will get two identical pieces. It is best to cut products using special scissors for metal, carefully cutting off everything unnecessary.

Installation

In order to install a plasterboard arch in a doorway, you will need:

• plasterboard arch blanks;
• metal profiles;
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws of two types: 3.5×25 mm; 4.2×13 mm;
• metal scissors;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;

• roller with needles;
• construction tape or level;
• a simple pencil;
• gypsum putty;
• sanding paper;
• corners for walls;
• primer;
• cladding material (optional).

Before installing the frame of the structure, you should prepare the doorway. First you need to remove the door frame and punch an opening up and to the sides to increase the space for the arch. The surfaces of the resulting opening are thoroughly cleaned, smoothing out rough irregularities, and removing dust and dirt.

It is necessary to follow the step-by-step installation instructions, then the arch structure will be securely installed and secured in the opening. First, guides made of metal profiles are attached to the upper part of the opening with dowels. Similar guides are also installed along the walls of the opening (to the level where the curved parts of the arch end).

After this, a product in the form of an arc is formed from the metal profile. Equidistant cuts are made along the edges of the profile using special metal scissors and the product is bent, focusing on ready-made plasterboard templates. Similarly, two such curved profiles are formed for each side.

You need to install a curved profile like this: attach the profile vertically to the guides with dowels, and attach it to the drywall using self-tapping screws. In order to assemble the frame more reliably, several pieces of profile are inserted between the arches inside the arch.

How to bend?

The next step in installing the arch is securing the arc-shaped part inside the structure. To do this, take a sheet of drywall. Carefully cut the strip according to the width internal space arches, longer than its inner surface. When measuring the length, it would be a good idea to leave a margin of about 10-15 cm.

You can bend drywall using ordinary water. To do this, wet the bottom of the plasterboard strip and pierce it with roller needles. Next, you need to bend and attach this element inside the arch. This is done using adhesive tape and left to dry for some time. Homemade frame arches are ready.

How to putty correctly?

After the arch frame is assembled, all elements are securely fastened, and inner part completely dry, you can start processing and external design designs.

To begin with, the entire surface of the arch is sanded using special paper, all irregularities are eliminated, and dust from sandpaper is removed. The surface of the arch should be smooth. The seams remaining from installation must be sealed with putty. Before filling the seams, you need to install prepared corner profiles (they give the corners of the arch rigidity and protection from deformation).

These corners can be attached on top of the putty, but then you need to apply another layer of putty on top, leveling all the joints. After the putty has dried, smooth the surface again with sandpaper. Remove dust and prime the entire outer space of the arch. When the soil has dried, the structure is puttyed and the uneven surfaces are sanded.

How to paint?

When all the dirty work is done, you should move on to decorative finishing.

When choosing a design, you should take into account the overall concept of the interior and its style. The fastest and cheapest finishing method is to paint the structure with water-based paint. This finish is very practical, because if the wall gets dirty, it can be wiped with a damp cloth; in addition, the arch will be very scratch-resistant. This type of finishing is also good because, if desired, the arch can be quickly repainted yourself.

Options in the interior

Arched vaults occupy a special place among architectural details when decorating a room. Smooth lines will bring a mood of comfort to any room and emphasize sophisticated style. If the choice is made to complement the interior with an arch, it is necessary to choose a design so that the vaulted structure fits organically into the space of the room and serves as a certain highlight in the interior.

Arches look great in rooms with semicircular window openings. Vaulted structures will favorably complement the interior, which contains doors with a semicircular top. Arched openings are used not only in living rooms and hallways. The kitchen space is also decorated with arches. Here they will serve not only as a decorative element, but also fulfill their functional role (storage systems, niches in the form of arches).

The arch design, decorated with glass shelves, looks authentic in itself. If the space of the room allows, weightless glass shelves can be replaced with massive ones made of stone or wood or plywood. They serve as a great place for souvenirs and photographs.

The light framing of the inner and outer parts of the arch looks interesting. Where there is not enough light this will be especially useful. This applies to most corridors and hallways. Designers recommend using non-standard shapes of lamps for this to give the room additional sophistication. Upon registration arched openings You shouldn’t limit yourself to light elements, focusing on the material of the arch, because the lighting will look advantageous both with plasterboard arch, and with a wooden structure.

The most harmonious arch is considered to be one that has absolute symmetry or even smooth lines in the case of the initial choice of an asymmetrical shape. This arch will suit any interior. If you are choosing the shape of an arch for an interior in the Art Nouveau style, you should take a closer look at curved arches. Such an arch is not suitable for a classic interior design. But here this element would look appropriate with a lot of decor from plaster decorations in the form of columns and intricate curls.

An acre in the form of an ellipse or a wide portal has a strict but noble appearance. It is simple to implement, does not require frequent alterations and is appropriate in any space.

However, the arch in the interior of a modern room is a rather controversial element. Some evaluate the arched vault as relics of past centuries. Others praise this elegant detail, hoping that it will never go out of style.

And since there is no arguing about tastes, there is no need to immediately abandon this design. Even in modern world For designers, an arch is not a tasteless, outdated fragment of a home if it is combined with the overall style of the space. The arch has long become a classic. And the only thing that can ruin a classic is its unsuccessful use.