Construction of a plasterboard ceiling. Plasterboard ceiling - what could be simpler? Cutting holes for lamps

In a short time, drywall has transformed from a material of little use in repairs into one of the most in demand. Columns, arches, multi-level ceilings, false fireplaces - the lightness of the material in work allows the master’s imagination to unfold in full force. Even a beginner can make a plasterboard sheet, while following all the recommendations and rules.

Peculiarities

Suspended ceiling It is a single-level or multi-level metal frame, mounted on the ceilings and walls of the room, covered with gypsum board slabs. A prerequisite is also the presence of lighting sources built into it.

First of all, you need to decide what a sheet of drywall is. Without going into details, we can explain it this way: this is a sheet of dry plaster, covered with cardboard on top.

Despite its apparent simplicity, the material has a lot of impressive advantages:

With the help of gypsum plasterboard you can level out very significant bumps and depressions on the ceiling without spending significant effort. To do this, you need to take a liquid solution - and the advantage becomes even more obvious.
Inside the frame, on which the sheets of drywall are attached, you can hide any wires and connect all the desired communications, while leaving them invisible to the eye. And this is a big plus, from an aesthetic point of view.

Any desired lighting can be mounted in a ceiling made of this material, which allows you to achieve completely unique lighting effects.
Drywall sheets make possible creation multi-level ceiling, bringing the owner's fantasy to life.

Due to free space Additional noise and heat insulation can be installed in the frame. It is enough just to lay an additional layer of mineral wool between the ceiling and the false ceiling.
GCR is installed dry without the use of liquid, which guarantees a minimum amount of dust and dirt.

It is quite possible to carry out all activities related to drywall with your own hands. This means it is possible with minimal costs do original design in accordance with your ideas.

Of course, it cannot be said that drywall is a material without drawbacks. Of course, they exist, but they relate more to the editing of the material than to the material itself.

For example:

Due to the fact that when installing a gypsum board ceiling, a frame is used, the ceiling height is reduced. And, if the ceilings are already low, this can become a problem.

If you don’t have the skills to work with this material, then you can tinker with the frame for quite a long time: it will be difficult to do the installation alone, it’s better to enlist the help of a partner.
The technology of the finishing process must not be violated, otherwise cracks will most likely appear in the seams and between them.

Device

GKL slabs offer the widest range of possibilities for creating a ceiling.

The main components of a plasterboard ceiling are the following materials:

GKL sheets. They are selected depending on the room in which the ceiling is installed, as well as the functionality of the sheet. Therefore, it is advisable to install moisture-resistant gypsum boards in the bathroom, and fire-resistant ones are perfect for the kitchen.
A profile for a frame, that is, a base on which plasterboard sheets are attached. It ensures the stability of the entire structure. Profiles are divided into two types: starting and supporting. The starting profile runs along the perimeter of the ceiling, and gypsum plasterboard slabs are attached to the supporting structures.

Metal hangers on which profiles are attached. It is possible to use conventional hangers or hangers with a bracket.
Dowels and screws for drywall.
Finishing materials: reinforcing tape, putty, primer, fine-grained sandpaper, which is used to level the ceiling after putty.

Kinds

A suspended ceiling can be installed in many different configurations. Nevertheless, there are three main types, the rest are the basis for more complex options.

Ceilings can be:

single-level;
simple two- or three-level;
complex.

Most budget option is, of course, an easy-to-install and inexpensive single-level ceiling. One way or another, its installation levels the surface of the ceiling, making it easy to decorate.

Based on the first level, the next ones are built - this way differences in ceiling height are created.

Multi-level surfaces can also be classified into the following categories:

frame;
diagonal;
zonal;
complex ceilings of other shapes.

The frame structure is represented by a box made of gypsum plasterboard, located in the form of a frame along the perimeter of the ceiling surface. A chandelier hanging in the center of the ceiling will fit harmoniously into the composition.

In a diagonal design, each subsequent level divides the ceiling along a conditionally drawn diagonal, and not necessarily in a straight line: it can be a wave or an arc. Either way, it makes half the room stand out. Since gypsum board is a flexible material, forming a curly line is not difficult.

Zonal design highlights a specific area, highlighting work area or a relaxation area.

Complex structures can be given different shapes: arched, patterned, figured. The shape can also be like a flower, geometric figure or spirals. It all depends on the owner’s imagination and the style in which it is decided to arrange the room.

Design

The design of a gypsum board ceiling can have an endless number of options.

There are a number of nuances:

If the room is spacious and has sufficient height, then it is possible to arrange a multi-level ceiling and decorate it, for example, by laying out molded baguettes, friezes, medallions, and ovals. It is beautiful if the pattern on the parquet duplicates the pattern of the ceiling surface.
If the room has a large area, then it can be zoned, highlighting, for example, a recreation area with a home theater or dining area. In these cases, it is also good to provide appropriate lighting for each area with the ability to turn it on and off separately - the room will look even more impressive.

If the room is small and low, then it is better not to pile up multi-level structures in it - one level will be enough. There is no need for large lampshades or a chandelier with pendants. Spotlights mounted into the ceiling surface will look most harmonious.
A cornice will add “air” to the space of the room if you make it small and run it around the perimeter of the ceiling.
This technique will help to visually enlarge the room: paint the surfaces of the ceiling and walls in one color, preferably in a light color scheme.
After consulting with an interior designer, you can consider installing a mirror on the ceiling.

There is another way to visually “raise” the ceiling: by combining a suspended ceiling with a shiny, glossy surface and a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard in the interior of one room.
The ceiling should not differ in style from the rest of the interior of the room. For example, in a room made in Provence style, a ceiling with a mirror surface will look strange.
Most original look ceiling made of gypsum plasterboards - arched. The easiest arched ceiling to perform is semi-cylindrical. The main condition is to correctly mount the base for the ceiling.

There are four main ceiling design options:

single-level;
two-level;
three-level;
figured (this includes arches).

Single-level ceilings are simple and reliable. For small rooms this is the best option.

You can decorate it in the following ways:

paint in different colors;
cover with putty;
paint by hand;
cover with wallpaper.

If the walls in the room are below 3 meters, then it is better to use light shades. Dark or bright colors can visually reduce an already small space.

Despite the fact that the ceiling is called single-level, it should not have a perfectly flat surface. You can make the level convex or concave, which will give a completely unusual effect. It should be noted that this type of suspended ceiling is the easiest to do with your own hands.

The most popular option is a two-level one; as for the three-level one, it is quite difficult to implement.

A two-level ceiling provides a wide variety of options, with their help you can give different shapes ceiling surface, and lighting can add even more originality to the design. It is not difficult to build such a ceiling, but it still requires some effort.

If the height of the ceiling allows, you can make something like a “reflection”: place a ledge on the ceiling above a similar podium structure on the floor.

Constructions made from gypsum boards, accompanied by thoughtful lighting, can look incredibly impressive. The flight of design thought can create original compositions: waves, a combination of matte and glossy surfaces, zigzags and ovals, hand painting, 3D wallpaper (“wooden”, “sky”, “sea and palm trees”). Of course, the design is not limited to one game of levels and colors; without lighting, the desired effect will never be achieved. And here LEDs and halogen, chandeliers and shades, mirrors and spotlights come into play.

Multi-tiered structures have an extremely attractive appearance. It is best to build them in a room with high and very high ceilings, for example, in a private house, since they “eat up” a significant part of the height of the room. Making them is more difficult than, for example, a two-tier structure, and since drywall is an extremely easy-to-work material, it may take a little more time, but the result will be a stunning effect.

Stepped elements from gypsum plasterboard can be made according to individual order, hiding in them, for example, ceiling beams or ventilation hood. It’s not even worth mentioning the built-in lighting sources - they are prerequisite multi-tiered fantasy ceiling structure.

A figured suspended ceiling requires considerable skill in its design and installation, however, non-standard elements (flower, solar system, clouds, starry sky) will appeal to everyone. Drywall has properties that allow you to create the desired figure or figures from it: you can build a structure from intertwined abstract shapes, this looks especially good in rooms with a large area. An expensive but effective solution is patterns with small cells. The “roll call” with small inclusions of similar patterns on the walls will give such a ceiling a special chic.

An interesting option is the so-called floating ceiling. To create it, you need to select the shape (silhouette) that will be located under the ceiling. It is made separately from gypsum boards and attached to an already finished structure. This creates the appearance that the ceiling element is floating in the air. As a rule, this method is combined with illumination of the “floating” element around the perimeter, which gives an additional effect to the design.

Installation

Once the preparation of the ceiling surface is completed, it is time to begin installation. It is important to strictly follow the sequence of actions and technologies necessary to carry out each step.

Ceilings made from gypsum plasterboards can be:

hemmed;
suspension.

In a hemmed structure, plasterboard sheets are attached to the ceiling surface using wooden beam or bent profile, which is called filing. This is a great option for rooms with small height ceiling. It is also well suited for installation in a home where wooden floors. The disadvantage of this type is the impossibility of hemming sheets of drywall so well as to obtain a perfectly flat surface.

For a suspended ceiling, gypsum plasterboard slabs are mounted on a frame made of profiles mounted on hangers. This design is ideal for hiding ventilation, wires, and lighting.

It is most convenient to cut sheets of drywall if they are positioned vertically and leaned against the wall.

Work on installing a suspended ceiling begins with the installation of the frame.

The secrets of this stage are described in step-by-step instructions:

After the markings on the ceiling are made, the guide profile (already drilled) is attached to the walls. Its edge is attached to the marking line. Below this mark the frame elements will be located. This is an important step if you decide to do the ceiling yourself.
Having covered the guide profiles with sealing tape, they are secured to the dowels. Dowels should be screwed in advance.

Attaching hangers every 0.5 m. The initial step from the wall is 0.25 m. You need to attach the hangers to anchors. It is important to take into account that drilling generates dust, so it is better to carry out all this work while wearing safety glasses and a respirator. When the hangers are fixed, their edges need to be folded.
The next step is to install the ceiling profile. After installation, it must be fixed to the guide. Self-tapping screws without a drill will help with this.
After this, you need to make jumpers - they strengthen the structure. It is imperative to check the position of the profiles using a level. The jumpers are fixed using “crabs”.

If insulation is necessary, then mineral wool is placed in the jumpers. It has both thermal insulation properties and absorbs noise. Working with mineral wool also requires the use of a respirator; in addition, gloves are required.
The installation of the sheathing is complete, the next thing to do is wiring electric cable. The wires must be in a corrugated sleeve - under no circumstances should communication parts be allowed to press or hang down on the frame.

After this, you can begin covering the frame with gypsum board slabs. All sheets must be pre-prepared: in a lying position, they must be stored for some time in the very room where they will be mounted. In addition, holes must be made in them for lamps.
Sheathing with plasterboard begins from the corner, fastening occurs with self-tapping screws every 15 cm.
The sheets are not installed end-to-end: it is imperative to leave 4-5 mm between them.

The installation of the ceiling is completed, you can proceed to finishing, but only after the seams have been sealed. This is very important, because if the seams are sealed poorly, this can lead to cracks throughout the entire ceiling covering. You can do this using a sickle mesh or putty.

If the method of puttying seams is chosen, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

impregnation of joints with a primer containing acrylates;
when dry, dilute a putty mixture, for example, gypsum;
fill the seams with the mixture and smooth with a spatula (a wide one will do);
additionally do the same in the gaps between the sheets and the heads of the screws;

when dry, glue the serpyanka and putty;
apply finishing putty a layer maximum 1.5 cm thick;
smooth out roughness with fine-grain sanding;
remove dust using a dry sponge or vacuum cleaner;
Apply primer with acrylic.

After this, surface repairs will not be needed for very long, and finishing work can begin.

Project. The properties of plasterboard are such that they allow you to create structures of any complexity. But the more complex the future design, the more accurate the calculations and plans should be. As with any other work, a project is needed to install a suspended ceiling. This includes a graphic, perhaps an estimate or list. necessary materials, as well as the sequence of actions. In addition to the list of materials, you also need to calculate their required quantity.

A ceiling design made from gypsum plasterboards should ideally include:

A sketch (drawing) that contains an image of the future structure. The sketch must be large-scale and in color.
The drawing is a reflection of all elements load-bearing structure. If there are two or more ceiling levels, the drawing may contain more than one sheet.
Calculation of materials. The more carefully it is compiled, the less likely it is that compliance with the installation technology will be violated.

If you plan to do the installation yourself, it is better to consult with professionals, taking the project with you. This will make it easier for them to find the error and point it out, which will help avoid losses in the quality of the future design.

When creating a sketch, you need to take into account the following constant positions:

room area;
ceiling height and shape;
colors of the floor and wallpaper, patterns on them;
the style in which the room is decorated;
design and dimensions of furniture in the room.

Having drawn a sketch, it is advisable to transfer it to tracing paper. Subsequently, the tracing paper will be superimposed on the frame drawing to refine the final design.

If you put everything listed on one sheet, the drawing will contain too much information and look overloaded.

In the case of planning a ceiling with one level, the cell of the sheathing is 0.5x0.6 m. If several tiers are planned or something massive will be placed on the ceiling, for example, a chandelier or a mirror, the cell size is reduced to 0.5x0.4 m. Similarly the distance between the hangers will decrease from 1 m to 0.5-0.6 m.

The drawing of the sheathing of the first tier should contain all the information about the attachment points and the passage of profiles, the bookmark for lamps, and the installation points of suspensions. This should also be contained in the drawings of all subsequent tiers.

After completing the drawings and adjusting the sketch by superimposing them on top of each other, you need to move on to calculations. They should take into account everything: from the number of sheets of drywall to cans of putty. In addition, if you plan to do the installation yourself, then a separate list must be drawn up, which should reflect the availability of the necessary tools.

Upon completion of the calculations, you need to transfer the graphic part of the project to the ceiling surface. The more accurately this is done, the more correct, smoother and stronger the future suspended ceiling will be. After marking the ceiling, you can get a rough idea of what the future object will look like. If it's not what you wanted, adjustments need to be made.

Preparation

Before starting work, you need to carry out a number of preparatory measures on the ceiling surface, namely:

Clean off the old finishing layer. This can be done using, for example, a spatula.
Remove stains of mold, grease, rust, and fungus using special antiseptics.
Fill cracked areas with putty. For this purpose, it is better to use cement-based putty.
Prime the coating with a composition that contains an antiseptic (it would be correct to use “Colorit” or “Lakru”). This condition is mandatory, otherwise stains on the ceiling will inevitably appear. In addition, this is one of the activities that helps level the surface.

After all these steps, the surface is ready. After waiting for the primer to dry, you need to turn off the power to the room in which you plan to install the ceiling, and you can begin installation.

Tools. Preparation of tools and devices is an important preparatory stage of work. Unfortunately, due attention is not always given to it, as a result of which work constantly has to be interrupted, since either there is not enough fittings or a tape measure at hand. Therefore, it is better to prepare everything you might need in advance and not be distracted while working.

To install a suspended ceiling, you need the following:

guide and ceiling profile;
U-shaped suspensions;
profile connectors or “crabs”;
dowels and screws, and best of all, anchors;
plasterboard sheets;

self-tapping screws (both for metal and for gypsum plasterboard);
sealing tape;
finishing material;
hydro- and heat-insulating material.

There are several rules that must be followed when carrying out repair or finishing work:

You should not try to save on materials, for example, on metal profiles. The cheaper it is, the thinner it is; accordingly, it will bend and hold the structure poorly. Having made the right choice, the master ensures the reliability and durability of the structure.
It’s good if the master has levels of two sizes: one up to 1 m high, the second 2-2.5 m. If you have a laser level and the skills to use it, then two levels will not be needed.
The thickness of the plasterboard sheets should not exceed 9 mm, otherwise a different frame (more rigid) and a different sequence of installation actions will be needed.
It is important to consider the purpose of the room in which the ceiling is installed and select the material taking it into account. For example, for installation in a bathroom, plasterboard sheets must be moisture-resistant, that is, ordinary gypsum plaster boards will not be suitable.

Lighting

The choice of lighting for a suspended ceiling is very important point, because lamps can make a composition the “highlight” of the interior or completely kill it with their tasteless combination.

Typically they use recessed spotlights, then the lighting can be made multi-position. Most often they use halogen lamps, and the housing is metal, glass, brass or thermoplastic. In addition, the lamps can be painted in various sophisticated shades, such as polished and matte brass, bronze, matte or black chrome - this will make them even more attractive.

To illuminate multi-level ceiling surfaces in the background, fluorescent lamps are used, sometimes neon and duralight.

As spotlights, lighting sources with halogen lamps are preferable, since when they are installed, the ceiling height does not decrease as much as when installing lamps with standard lamps - this is convenient when the ceilings in the room are already low.

Halogen lamps are classified as warm-toned lighting sources close to the white spectrum, and therefore do not distort the shades in the room. It is better not to touch the glass surface of the lamp with your hands - there is a high probability that they will remain greasy spots. This, in turn, will lead to the glass of the flask melting at the point of contact. It is better to use a clean cloth glove or just a clean cloth napkin for this.

When installing lamps, do not forget about fire safety standards and rules, for example, on ensuring sufficient distance between the ceiling and the ceiling. When using a dimmer as a switch (in order to smoothly regulate the brightness of the lighting), there is no need to install protection on the lamps.

The selection of spotlights is carried out in accordance with the purpose of the room and the number of windows in it. LED or energy-saving lamps are best suited for this. Thanks to spotlights, the room can be divided into zones, for example, in a studio apartment.

Transformers are usually located behind gypsum plasterboards on a suspended ceiling; they can be accessed through lamp holes. It is better if there are several transformers in one room - one for a group of lamps. So, if one fails, the others will continue to work. The likelihood that all transformers will burn out at the same time is extremely small. In addition, one large and heavy transformer can cause too much pinpoint impact on the drywall sheets.

Transformers are divided into the following types:

induction;
electronic.

Induction ones are heavier, but more reliable and cheaper. Electronic ones are lighter, but more expensive and break more often.

The question “how many lamps will be needed to illuminate one room” is individual for each owner. This problem is easily resolved by sketching the future ceiling and marking it. To illuminate the living room in an average city apartment, an average of 12 lamps with a power of 50 W will be required. And it’s better if the switch has two or three buttons, thereby making it possible to adjust the intensity of lighting or highlight the area of the room where it is necessary.

Also interesting solution There will be a dimmer installed to regulate the overall brightness of the lighting in the room. It's functional as well as beautiful. In addition, the dimmer will reduce energy consumption by more than half and increase the life of halogen lamps. This is because the lamp operates under milder temperature conditions, as it heats up smoothly and gradually decreases brightness.

Of course, installing spotlights together with halogen lamps will be more expensive, but later this will create significant energy savings.

To mount a suspended ceiling with lighting sources, you need to mark sheets of drywall for the holes for them, and then start drilling using an electric drill with a crown attachment. It is necessary to drill holes only after the purchase of lamps has taken place, since standard size there are no holes. Puttying is only possible after all holes have been drilled.

LED lighting is divided into the following types:

dome;
linear;
directional light LEDs;
LED panels.

To illuminate the multi-level ceiling surface in the background, white fluorescent lamps are mostly used. Such lamps are placed next to each other so as not to interrupt the light surface on the ceiling. Taking this into account, you can calculate how many lamps you will need. As a result, the lighting should be soft, diffused, and comfortable for the eyes.

If the perimeter of the ceiling surface is too large and you need a lot of lamps, you can use alternative options. For example, duralight, which is a bendable plastic light cord-tube. Miniature incandescent lamps assembled into a garland are pressed into it. For an apartment, you can use the “fixing” modification - it glows continuously.

Duralight is cheap, easy to install, durable, has a large selection of colors, does not require a large “canopy” in the ceiling for installation, and consumes a small amount of electricity. The downside may be poor lighting, but this can easily be corrected by wrapping it two or three times instead of once.

Speaking about electroluminescent wire (cold neon), it should be noted that it is essentially a flexible cord made of polyvinyl chloride, into which a current-carrying wire is hermetically installed. This cord is easy to cut and solder - this is its difference from duralight. It is durable and can be laid out in configurations different forms, at night its light is dazzlingly beautiful, in daytime he is invisible. The scope of its application is very wide.

Electrical wiring must be installed in compliance with a number of necessary conditions:

This must be done before starting finishing works, before installing drywall sheets on the sheathing.
Like any other electrical installation work, you should start by developing a plan that will indicate what type of wiring will be installed, draw a diagram with the required number of switches, as well as distribution boxes, sockets and other devices. Also, the diagram should indicate places for their installation in such a way that they are convenient to use.

The connection of wires in places where they are broken must be connected only through an adapter block - twisting is unacceptable, especially for wires made of copper or aluminum.
The wires must be marked.
Wires should not come into contact with metal. They can only be laid near pipelines, for example, with gas, at a distance of at least 40 cm.
Laying wires in bundles is prohibited. In addition, it is prohibited to lay wires if the gaps are less than 3 mm between each.
Wires in rooms can only be connected and branched using junction and branch boxes.

IN modern trends decor does not imply the use of chandeliers with pendants to illuminate the room. Nevertheless there is successful examples classical style solution when a chandelier is very appropriate. But, having decided to hang it, you need to take care of strengthening the ceiling structure in the place where this will happen, since gypsum board slabs are not designed to withstand such weight.

Subtleties of operation and care

It is not difficult to care for a gypsum board ceiling. To ensure that it does not lose its attractiveness for a long time, you need to periodically wipe it with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. If there is a lot of dust, then you can vacuum the ceiling, first making sure that the brush is clean. If in doubt, it is advisable to wash the brush with soap and dry thoroughly. If you neglect this, the brush may leave dark lines on the ceiling.

Lighting sources (whether chandeliers or lamps) also require care. They need to be wiped with a dry, clean cloth, remembering that they are live. If a yellowish coating has formed around the lamps, it can be removed with a special felt-tip pen.

Stains of dust and dirt are removed slightly damp cloth or viscose napkin. If the contamination is severe, you can try using dishwashing detergent, and if there are large stains, it is better to refresh the paint layer on the ceiling surface.

To avoid mistakes common to beginners, it is important to consider some features of drywall:

In order for the plaster to release unnecessary moisture, it must rest. That is why some time must pass between the delivery of gypsum plaster boards to the room where installation will take place and the installation itself. Otherwise, the sheets may become deformed.
Work with drywall should be carried out in a room whose temperature is constant and not lower than +10 C. In addition, gypsum board slabs must be kept in these temperature conditions for at least 4 days - two days before installation and two days after, only after 2 days can they be sealed seams.
The main rule is that before cutting, drilling or screwing anything, you need to check and calculate everything. It is not in vain that the installation of a suspended ceiling includes such an important stage as design. Only after completing all the calculations, combining the sketch and drawings, and marking the ceiling itself, you need to proceed to action.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Two-level geometric plasterboard ceiling with spot lighting and LED panels.

Original ceiling in the shape of a flower. The lighting goes along the entire perimeter.

A two-level ceiling, the lighting of which combines a chandelier and lamps.

In the process of creating a functional modern interior installation of a plasterboard ceiling plays a special role. Simple, but at the same time aesthetic and practical design, allows you to significantly reduce the time of work, mask surface defects, and hide communications. You can install the ceiling yourself, following the installation technology.

The basis of a plasterboard structure - what is included?

Before you begin installing a plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the basic materials.

Considering that the structure consists of a frame finished with plasterboard sheets, for its construction you will need:

metal profiles;
fastening elements;
plasterboard slabs;
finishing materials.

Metal profiles are the basis of the structure. These must be quality elements made of galvanized metal in two versions: guides and ceiling carriers. To connect the profiles, a straight U-shaped suspension is used, two types of connectors are used: straight and cross-shaped. In addition, to assemble a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands you will need galvanized connecting screws and dowels.

The frame is finished using plasterboard ceiling sheets with optimal parameters: length - 2.5 meters and width - 1.2 meters. The thickness of the sheets ranges from 8 to 9.5 mm.

Classic ceiling plasterboard painted in grey colour. By color and thickness it can be distinguished from wall sheets, which are usually thicker. In rooms with high moisture or risk of fire, special sheets of plasterboard labeled “moisture resistant” or “fire resistant” are used.

Calculation of materials for the ceiling - how to do it correctly

In order for the installation of plasterboard on the ceiling to go as smoothly as possible and without interruptions during the work process, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to create the structure. To do this, first calculate the ceiling area in a standard way- multiplying the width by the length of the room (measured with a tape measure).

To calculate required amount guide profile, you need to find the perimeter of the room. To do this, add up the lengths of the walls. At this stage, it is important to measure each of the walls separately in order to eliminate possible errors in the process of calculating the required amount of profile, since the lengths are not always the same.

To calculate how much material the installation of a load-bearing profile will require, just remember that the first and last elements are mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, when the distance between the remaining profiles is no more than 60 cm. The amount of the load-bearing profile is found by multiplying the number of rows by the length ceiling.

The supporting profile is secured with U-shaped straight hangers in increments of one meter. It is easy to determine the required number of hangers by dividing the total length of the profile by one meter.

To increase the rigidity of the frame between the guides and the supporting profiles, special jumpers will be required in increments of 60 cm. The number of cross-shaped connectors for the jumpers is found by dividing the length of the supporting profile by the fastening pitch. As for the second type of connectors - straight ones, their number is calculated taking into account the length of the room, since the elements are fastened along the length of the profiles.

The last stage - attaching plasterboard sheets - also requires accurate preliminary calculations. To finish the frame of the ceiling structure, you will need exactly the number of slabs that is equal to the area of the ceiling. Compensation consumption is also taken into account, adding from 3% to 5% of the material to the total amount.

Marking is a responsible start to work

Regardless of the complexity of the design, the initial stage is always marking. Only after marking has been carried out can we assume that the technology for installing drywall on a pre-arranged frame has been fully complied with.

Start by determining the lowest point of the ceiling surface horizontally. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level or, in the absence of one, an ordinary water level. A mark is placed in a certain place - this will be the height of the plasterboard ceiling. It is important that it is at least 3 centimeters below the lowest side of the base. This will be the bottom part of the guide profile. In the case of a planned illuminated ceiling, the line is lowered a few centimeters lower.

Do the same with the remaining walls. A corresponding mark is placed on each of them, again using a level for reliability. It is important to ensure that there are no air bubbles inside the level during measurements.

The final stage of marking is connecting the marked points using a tapping thread into a continuous line and marking the lines for attaching the suspensions on the ceiling surface in increments of 0.6 m.

The main stage of the process is assembling the frame

There is nothing difficult about assembling the frame with your own hands if you follow the step-by-step instructions.

They begin by installing the guide profile along the intended line around the perimeter of the room. Fix U-shaped suspensions on the ceiling surface. The supporting profiles are cut (1 cm shorter) and secured in the guides according to the markings, further strengthening the structure with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the hangers are bent and attached to the profile, tensioning the thread to avoid sagging of the load-bearing elements.

As soon as longitudinal elements will be finally fixed, cut the crossbars and fix them with the help of crabs.

The classic profile installation scheme involves placing the joints of the gypsum boards in the middle of the profile, which can only be achieved if there are a number of crossbars at a distance of 2.5 meters from the wall, which acts as a starting point for installing the gypsum boards.

Plasterboard finishing - the final stage

Drywall sheets are attached to the finished frame with self-tapping screws. It is more convenient to attach sheets without preliminary cutting, thus reducing the number of joints and seams. To properly install drywall, you need to measure its quantity in advance and prepare sheets on a horizontal surface. The more carefully the installation is carried out with the heads of the screws recessed into the surface of the gypsum board, the smoother the finished ceiling will be.

An important step is filling the joints and seams between the sheets. A responsible approach at this stage will prevent the appearance of cracks on the ceiling during operation. To securely fix the seams, use reinforcing tape, on top of which a layer of putty mixture with leveling properties is applied. As soon as the surface dries, it is further leveled. sandpaper.

In places of contact with the wall, installation of gypsum boards is carried out using sealing tape. Fasten it before the sheets are fixed. Remove the tape only after filling the gaps with putty mixture. The finished ceiling is primed, treated with putty, sanded, re-primed and only then painted.

How to install a curved ceiling

The classic installation of ceiling plasterboard on a frame under a curved ceiling is somewhat different from the previous installation option. In order to install a non-standard design, follow the following algorithm:

Install the first tier of the frame traditional way, as required by the instructions above.
Mark guide profiles around the perimeter of the room.
PNx28×27 profiles are installed along the marking line, fixing them with self-tapping screws and dowels.
The carriers are fixed into pre-installed profiles using hangers and in increments of 600 mm.
In areas where a curved profile passes, the pitch is reduced to 400 mm.
Sheets of plasterboard are attached to the finished frame so that they extend beyond 10 cm onto the curved line of the ceiling bend.
The sheets are fastened with a pitch of no more than 250 mm.
After finishing the first level, a wave line is drawn.
At a distance equal to the thickness of the sheets, a curved profile is attached to the mark (use metal scissors to cut the sides).
Attract the profile through the gypsum board to the main frame.
Any technology from the manufacturer further implies the production of a second-level frame. The more levels are planned, the smaller the gypsum fastening step should be.
The finished frame is hemmed with plasterboard with a margin of a centimeter for further work with bending.
Taking into account the direction of the bend, a lower profile is attached that corresponds to the location of the line of the upper one.
The upper and lower parts of the curved frame are tied with profile posts and finished with plasterboard in vertical plane. For curved areas, a sheet with a thickness of 6.5 mm is suitable.

The final stage of installation of plasterboard sheets is completed plastic corners, designed to mask the protruding outer corners of the arches. The joints are treated with reinforcing tape and puttied. The surface of the finished ceiling, just as in the case of its classic version, is primed, treated with putty, sanded and painted.

Features of installing a curved ceiling: what is useful to know

Considering that we're talking about about a not entirely standard solution for a plasterboard ceiling, you need to take into account several important points.

First, a higher level is attached to the frame, which subsequently acts as a supporting base for the curved profiles of the next level frame.

Secondly, the curved element is attached through the already hemmed plasterboard sheet to the underlying base frame. If there is no profile in the area where the metal arc is fixed behind the sheet, then you will need to additionally place a gasket under it to screw in the fasteners, otherwise the sheet may not withstand the load. Scraps of fiberboard, profile or plywood are suitable for the role of gasket.

Thirdly, the profile can be bent in two ways: wet and dry. The first option is suitable for small bend radii, the second will allow for smooth transitions.

Fourthly, the type of plasterboard sheets is of great importance. You need to understand that installation of gvl suitable for installing ceilings in in public places with increased load, not suitable for a curved ceiling. To achieve the correct bends of the material, it is better to use sheets with a minimum thickness, additionally piercing the surface with a needle roller.

Modern construction and finishing materials and technologies for their use have made the repair process very simple. Therefore, many owners own apartments They are thinking about how to do this or that process themselves in order to save money from the family budget.

For example, a plasterboard ceiling, the installation process of which, at first glance, seems very difficult. In part, we can agree with this, so in this article we will have to answer the question of how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands.

Installation stages

Like any repair process, installing drywall on the ceiling is divided into stages.

Stage No. 1 - preparatory

So, first of all, you should prepare the tools and necessary materials.

Let's start with the tools:

perforator;
screwdriver;
metal scissors;
Laser level;
construction knife;
brush and roller;
special plane;
putty knife.

Now the materials:

drywall;
metal profiles: guides PN 28/27 (this is a designation for the dimensions of the shelves) and ceiling PP 60/27;
straight suspension;
single-level connector for PP 60/27 profiles, among specialists it is called “crab” (very similar);
screws, primer, putty, sickle tape, sandpaper or synthetic paint mesh.

If all this is prepared, then you have come close to the question of how to make a ceiling from plasterboard. But don't rush to move on installation work, one piece of advice for you.

Advice! Before proceeding with installation, prepare the base surface of the ceiling. If it suits you in terms of strength, then less work. If you don’t like something, it’s better to carry out a small repair of the surface. For example, you can simply prime it, thereby strengthening it upper layer, and if there are cracks, then fill them with putty.

Stage No. 2 - markings are made for the future ceiling

It should be noted that this stage is very important. After all, precisely carried out markings will guarantee a high-quality ceiling. Therefore, treat this stage with full responsibility.

Marking begins with finding the lowest corner in the room. To do this, you will have to measure all corners from floor to ceiling.

This size will only be accurate if you have carried out floor leveling processes. The measurements are ready, determine the smallest indicator, which indicates the angle required to start the process.

It is in this corner that you need to determine the future contour of the plasterboard ceiling. To do this, a height equal to the inter-ceiling space you need falls down from the ceiling surface.

The whole point is that communication systems can be hidden there. For example, wiring, cables, ventilation ducts, heating or water pipes.

The size of the inter-ceiling space depends on the size of the pipes and air ducts. But it should not be less than 5 centimeters. Now a laser level is installed on this marking; it will show exactly where the future plasterboard ceiling will go.

Now you need to make markings on the ceiling itself to install direct hangers. The basis of this action is the size of the drywall sheet itself - 120x300 centimeters. Typically this material is laid along the room. This means that PP profiles also need to be laid lengthwise.

Therefore, the distance between the profiles is determined by the width of the sheet. The simplest option is to lay profiles every 60 cm. That is, two profiles will be at the edges of the sheet, one in the middle. Moreover, you need to mark in such a way that the edges of two adjacent sheets fall in the middle of one profile.

After that, directly on the ceiling, using a ruler and pencil, draw the measured dimensions. These are the lines on which the hangers will have to be attached. As you can see, the question of how to make a ceiling out of plasterboard is not so simple.

Stage No. 3 - installation of the frame

First of all, PN profiles are installed along the perimeter of the contour. They are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. To do this, holes are made directly through the profile in the wall, and dowels are inserted into them. The profile is screwed to them. The distance between fasteners is 40-50 centimeters.

Now proceed to installing direct hangers. Everything is simple here. The hangers are installed directly on the markings and are attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on each longitudinal line drawn. The distance between fasteners is 40-50 cm.

The next operation involves installing ceiling profiles. Firstly, they need to be cut 5 mm shorter than the length of the room. The goal is ease of installation into the guide profile.

Insert the PP into the PN and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. Please note that the PP profile is sagging, but it should be in a horizontal plane. This is one of the nuances of the question of how to make a ceiling from plasterboard. What can you offer?

The simplest and most effective option is to stretch five or six strong threads between the longitudinal PNs, which will determine the plane of the ceiling. It’s not difficult to do this. Screw the screws into the bottom edge of the PN and pull the threads between them.

It is along them that the ceiling profiles will have to be aligned and immediately attached to the suspensions using self-tapping screws. Be sure to check horizontality with a level. The protruding ends of the suspensions must either be cut off or bent towards the ceiling.

It may seem to many that the installation of the frame is complete. But it needs to be given rigidity. Therefore, segments are cut from PP equal to the interprofile distance (60 cm). Such elements are laid across the room at intervals of 50 or 60 centimeters and attached to the ceiling profiles with “crabs”.

Stage No. 4 - installation and fastening of plasterboard sheets

As mentioned above, the size of one plasterboard sheet– 120x300 centimeters. It is clear without words that one person will not lift him to the ceiling.

Moreover, it will not be able to attach it to the frame. At least three people should be involved in this task: one feeds the sheet from below, two accept it and lift it to the ceiling.

Currently, professionals use a special lifting device, which is easier and more convenient to work with. But since we are answering the question of how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then most likely you do not have such a device. Therefore, you simply need assistants.

So, the plasterboard sheet is lifted and laid on the frame.

Now pay attention to how the sheet is attached.

To do this, you will need either “TB” or “TN” brand self-tapping screws.
The distance from the edge of the drywall sheet to the fastening point is 1.5-2.0 cm.
The distance between the screws is 10-15 cm.
The head of the fastener must fit into the body of the plasterboard sheet to a depth of 0.5 millimeters.

Very often the very last sheets do not fit whole, so they need to be cut to size.

How to do this correctly?

First, the size is applied to the sheet.
Secondly, the cardboard layer is cut along the applied line.
Thirdly, any profile fits under the sheet.
Fourthly, a break is made at the site of the cut, pressing on the edges of the sheet with the palm of your hand.
Fifthly, the bottom layer of cardboard is cut off.
Sixth, the edge is processed with a special plane.

Stage No. 5 – sealing the seams

To do this, you will need putty, which is applied to the areas where seams and screws are located. After that, until it dries, you need to stretch and lay the sickle tape along the seams (it looks like a bandage). Wait until everything dries and apply another layer of putty.

After complete drying, the ceiling must be primed. After which, if there is such a need (and it is almost always there), the ceiling is puttied, leveling the surface.

Conclusion on the topic

Here are step-by-step instructions on how to make a ceiling with your own hands from plasterboard. Of course, everyone must decide for themselves whether to make a plasterboard ceiling or not.

But from this article one conclusion can be drawn that there is nothing impossible in the modern repair process. And the question of how masters perform this or that operation is most likely rhetorical.

You can learn everything quickly; the main thing is to find reliable information on the topic that interests you. And even such difficult questions How to make a niche out of plasterboard will seem simple to you. Go for it, and everything will work out for you.

What better help you figure out how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands - video instructions or detailed description with pictures and diagrams? Perhaps it wouldn’t hurt to study both, which is what we suggest you do.

Types of plasterboard ceilings

Drywall is versatile building material, which allows you to use it to create the most unusual and varied interior designs. Plasterboard suspended structures will easily fit into any project made in any style.

So how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard yourself? Next, we will analyze all the stages in detail, and now a little about what plasterboard ceilings are.

Conditionally suspended plasterboard structures can be divided into the following types:

Regular single-level, which are designed to hide all sorts of imperfections of the rough surface;

Conclusion

You can additionally watch the video in this article to better understand the technology for installing such ceilings. Even better is to watch the process “live”, having the opportunity to ask the master questions.

But in principle, an ordinary single-level suspended ceiling made of plasterboard can be installed with your own hands by anyone who knows how to hold construction tools in their hands and is not afraid of dusty work.

Drywall is universal material for leveling any surfaces, including for organizing ceiling covering. Using gypsum plasterboard for ceilings has a number of positive and negative aspects.

this material is an ideal basis for subsequent finishing;
the use of gypsum plasterboard increases the sound insulation and thermal insulation of the room;
It is convenient to place wiring and other communications inside the gypsum board ceiling covering;
installation lighting fixtures on drywall is simple and convenient;
Using this material you can build multi-level structures.

The disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings include:

the impossibility of attaching sheets by a beginner alone;
to ensure a long service life of the ceiling, it is necessary to properly putty the joints of the sheets;
accurate calculations are required when marking and installing the frame;
it is impossible to place this structure in rooms with low (2.5 meters or less) ceilings;
using plasterboard in wood country houses, in which seasonal movements of the foundation occur, are not recommended.

Which is better – plasterboard or suspended ceiling?

Here, the first step is to compare both types of coating according to the main parameters:

Life time. Their PVC film coatings are designed to last 10-15 years, while gypsum plasterboard sheathing will last at least 25 years, and the paint on the base can be periodically renewed, which further prolongs its life.
Thermal insulation and sound insulation. A single-level gypsum board ceiling shows results similar to a suspended ceiling, but if you apply mineral wool insulation(which is impossible in the case of a structure on PVC film), the level of these characteristics increases significantly.
Strength. Material or PVC film cannot withstand impacts on its surface (for example, a champagne cork), while gypsum board will receive minor damage, easily removable with putty.
Elasticity. According to this parameter, both coatings are quite reliable. A stretch ceiling can hold about 100 kg per square meter. m.
Design solutions. The capabilities of both coatings are comparable.
Installation cost. Installing a suspended ceiling is more profitable than ordering work with gypsum plasterboard, price per sq. m. differs by almost 4 times, but, under certain conditions, it may not be possible to sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard experienced master, while the installation of a suspended ceiling can only be performed by qualified specialists.
Turnaround time. Typically, an experienced craftsman installs a suspended ceiling within one working day; installation of a gypsum plasterboard covering will take much longer.

Making a decision if it is necessary to choose between plasterboard coating and suspended ceiling, depends on the wishes of the customer and the operating conditions of the premises, but if you count on long term repair service, it is better to install gypsum boards.

Materials and tools

To install plasterboard on the ceiling in an apartment, you will need the following materials:

profile with a section of 28x27 mm for guides;
ceiling profile with a section of 60x27 mm;
suspension for ceiling profile;
connecting element for profile (crab);
adhesive-based sealing tape;
serpyanka;
dowel-nails;
wedging anchors;
GKL 8 mm thick, for rooms with normal humidity conditions - standard, for rooms with high humidity(kitchen, bathroom, toilet) – moisture resistant;
putty for sealing joints;
metal screws 15, 25 and 30 mm;
primer for putty (acrylic);
mineral wool insulation, if necessary;
profile connectors.

Types of fasteners.

To work with plasterboard you will need the following tools:

scissors for cutting metal;
chop cord;
laser level;
level at least 2 m long;
perforator;
screwdriver;
Phillips screwdriver;
wide spatula (400-500 mm);
narrow spatula (100 mm);
container for preparing putty;
mixer;
stepladder or sawhorses;
a roller for applying a primer and a container with a cuvette;
roulette;
hammer.

Preparatory work

Before you figure out how to attach drywall to the ceiling, you need to figure out how to prepare the base for this work. Step-by-step instruction It will help even a novice finisher understand the nuances. All work can be divided into five main stages:

Preparing the base for installation.
Drawing up a diagram of the future location of lighting fixtures and decorative elements.
Calculation of material and its acquisition.
Applying markings on surfaces.
Installation and finishing.

Preparing the room begins with removing unnecessary items. In houses where renovations have not yet been carried out, it is enough to remove debris and repair cracks in the concrete floor slab, if any are found. It is not necessary to thoroughly putty and polish the surface - the main thing is to remove imperfections.

If the renovation is carried out in a habitable room, all furniture should be removed from it, the old ceiling covering should be removed (wash off the whitewash or paint) and uneven surfaces should be filled with putty; if necessary, the concrete surface can also be treated with special solutions that protect against mold and mildew.

Calculation of material quantity

Before starting calculations, you should draw a plan for the future structure, which is especially important when you plan to make a ceiling with several levels.

Example plan.

Calculation of the required amount of materials begins with perimeter determination premises, for which you should add the width and length of the room and multiply by 2. For example, (3+6) x 2 = 18 m. Therefore, the guide profile for a single-level ceiling will require 18 m.

The ceiling profile is attached in increments of 600 mm. To count required amount of profile, you need to divide the distance in mm by 600 mm, for example, 3000 / 600 = 5 . If the number turns out to be uneven, it is rounded up. If each line is equal to the length of the profile, then the number of required profiles is 5; if the length is less, then it is necessary to perform calculations taking into account the installation of additional sections.

For suspension calculations it is necessary to take into account that they are fastened in increments of 500 mm. It turns out: 3000 / 500 x 5 = 30 pieces. For determining the amount of gypsum boards It is necessary to divide the area of the room by the area of one sheet. For example, 18 sq.m/3 sq.m. = 6 sheets.

Number of transverse reinforcements calculated based on the number of sheet joints. Number of crabs will be equal to the number of profile intersections. To attach drywall, you will need 30 mm self-tapping screws, 25 pieces are required for one sheet, respectively, for 5 sheets - 125 screws.

The guides are fastened with 50 mm dowels in 600 mm increments, which means 60 dowels are required (18 000 / 300) . The hangers are mounted on anchor bolts; one anchor bolt is required to attach one hanger.

The ceiling profile is attached to the suspension with 4 15 mm screws, respectively, you will need 30 x 4 = 120 pieces.

Marking and assembling the frame

To obtain an even ceiling line, you need to start marking by determining the lowest point, for which you draw a horizon line using a laser level. By measuring the distance from the floor slab to this line, the lowest point is found, which is taken as the main landmark.

From the main point, 50 mm is set aside downwards when installing a single-level frame without recessed lamps, and 100 mm if it is planned to install lamps. Based on this mark, mark the level at all corners, then, using a tapping cord, mark the installation line of the wall profile.

Frame installation diagram.

For marking the second row two-level ceiling retreat the required distance from the main line down. The following marks are made on opposite walls in increments of 600 mm for the installation of ceiling profiles, which are connected to each other by marking a line on the ceiling. The marking of ceiling profiles is carried out perpendicular to the window.

Markings are made along the other two walls in increments of 500 mm to determine where to attach the hangers. The intersection of the lines of the ceiling profile and this marking will be the center of the suspension.

Setting up a profile

The ease of assembling a gypsum board ceiling covering depends on proper markings and a correctly assembled frame. When installing the profile, you must perform the following steps:

The wall profile is pressed against the wall so that its lower edge coincides with the marked line. Using a puncher, holes for dowels are prepared through the profile at a distance of 300 mm (the first hole from the corner is at a distance of 100 mm);
Dowels are inserted into the holes, and a sealing tape is glued to the back surface of the profile to dampen sound vibrations. The profile is attached to the wall. It is advisable to strengthen the joints of the profiles with special plates and fix them with self-tapping screws;
The hangers are fixed strictly in the middle of the longitudinal lines at the intersections with the transverse markings. Anchor bolts are used for fastening. The antennae are straightened, preparing for attaching the ceiling profile;
The ceiling profile is mounted to the suspension using two self-tapping screws on each side. To maintain the required horizon, it is recommended to pull the control thread at the required level along each longitudinal line. The free ends of the hangers are bent to the floor slab;
The intersection points of the frame are strengthened with special fasteners (crab), which are fixed with four self-tapping screws;
A transverse profile is inserted into the crab cavity and secured with self-tapping screws.

Heat and sound insulation

A suspended ceiling is great for organizing additional soundproofing of a room, which is especially important in the bedroom when there are restless tenants living in the apartment above, or there is a technical floor above the room.

The soundproofing layer is made of rolled or sheet mineral material, which is recommended to be secured to the profile using special “fungi”.

Drywall installation

Now you can figure out how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. So, how to attach plasterboard to the frame:

Before installing the sheets, they are left to rest at room temperature for 48 hours. This procedure is necessary to prepare the material, acquire natural humidity and temperature for a given room.
The sheets are cut to size, taking into account that there should be no intersection of the joints. Typically, the first sheet is cut by 500 mm so that the adjacent sheet in the row can be placed intact; in this case, matching seams can be avoided.
To prepare edges for puttying, it is necessary to chamfer at an angle of 22.5 degrees.
When installing the sheet to the frame, maintain a gap of 2 mm from the wall. This measure will ensure effective air circulation in the inter-ceiling space.
The sheet begins to be fixed from the wall at a distance of 100 mm, then a step of 300 mm is observed.
For ease of mounting into ceiling profiles, it is recommended to make markings on a sheet.
It is better to do the final tightening of the screws with a screwdriver, this way you can avoid excessive pressing of the material.
At the joints of sheets, self-tapping screws are installed staggered.

After installing the sheets, you can proceed to finishing.

Final finishing

On final stage construction suspended ceiling from plasterboard, the first step is to mask the joining seams. To fill the seam, you should use special putties that have increased strength and adhesion. The putty is applied with a narrow spatula and leveled along the plane of the sheets.

After filling the seams, all joints should be covered with self-adhesive reinforcing mesh (serpyanka), where the seams intersect, the mesh is overlapped. Next, using drywall putty, you need to apply thin layer onto the serpyanka and smooth it out.

The next step is to mask the places where the drywall is attached to the profile, for which the recesses from the screws are covered with putty. If the self-tapping screw protrudes beyond the surface of the plasterboard, tighten it with a screwdriver.

When there are no irregularities left on the surface of the ceiling, you can begin to putty the entire space, but before that it is recommended to prepare the base and cover the surface with a primer for putty.

To apply the putty, use a wide spatula, onto which the leveling mass is applied with a small spatula. The putty is applied with wide movements in a thin, even layer over the entire surface.

After drying, the surface of the ceiling is sanded with fine sandpaper, removing all unevenness and roughness, after which you can begin the final finishing: painting, wallpapering or applying decorative plaster.

Installation electrical appliances is carried out after finishing the finishing work, but laying wires and cutting out holes for LED lights or other type of lighting must be done during the installation of sheets.