Great way To complement the interior of a house or cottage is to make an original and stylish piece of furniture. We talk about how to make a table with your own hands in this article. This piece of furniture will become a real decoration for your living room, kitchen or office. It can be assembled at home from specially ordered boards and beams or from leftover materials. To do this, the master will need drawings, tools and a little imagination. Here is the manufacturing experience homemade furniture may be missing. We offer you a very simple project to build a strong and stable table. Even a beginner can make furniture using this pattern.
It all starts with an idea
How to make a table? You need to start with the selection finished project furniture for the living room or by drawing up your own diagram of the future product. You don’t have to limit your imagination, but you should remember that the degree of complexity of the drawings should correspond to your level of skill. If you do not have sufficient experience, it is better not to try to assemble a very complex structure yourself.
The design of a table for your home can be drawn with a pencil on paper. First you need to draw a structure of the desired shape, and only then indicate its dimensions. Most often, a do-it-yourself table for the living room is made square or round, but for a kitchen or office (and any small room) a compact corner or adjustable-size table is suitable.
The dimensions of the table with your own hands can be absolutely any; when choosing the dimensions of the product, it is recommended to take into account, first of all, the dimensions of the room in which it will stand. Then, using the drawings, you can calculate the amount of material that will need to be purchased. It is recommended to purchase materials with a small reserve (just in case).
If you are a beginner who is assembling furniture at home for the first time, then it is better for you to give preference to soft wood (for example, pine).
Such materials are very pliable and do not split during assembly. If you are making furniture for the living room and aesthetics are important to you, then choose poplar. If homemade table will be used outside the home, it is recommended to choose treated wood or mahogany.
A forged table with a wooden top will also be durable. A piece of wood decorated with wood will add charm to your yard. forged elements.
To assemble a simple table at home, you will need:
- edged or tongue-and-groove boards, beams with a square cross-section (for legs) and with a rectangular cross-section (for the frame);
- white or yellow wood glue;
- screws (it is advisable to take self-tapping screws measuring 4x60);
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- set of clamps;
- sandpaper or sanding machine.
Making a countertop right
We begin the work with a description of the countertop manufacturing process. There are several ways in which you can solve this problem. What determines the choice of one method or another? First of all, it depends on the skill of the furniture maker and the intended appearance of the table for the living room or country house. So, here are the main ways to make a homemade countertop:
- Production from boards. This material is characterized by relatively low cost, excellent appearance and environmental friendliness. If you are a novice craftsman, then you can make a table with your own hands from tongue-and-groove boards (that is, blanks with ridges and grooves.
Experienced master can assemble furniture for their living room edged boards. To do this, he will need dowels or a short soil carrier. These will be used to connect the boards to each other.
- Made from a single piece of wood. In this case, you don’t even have to worry about how to make a table with your own hands with a fairly durable and beautiful tabletop. The best option is to purchase plywood made from hard wood. However, such a product will be quite expensive.
- Assembling a product from leftover materials. This is very cheap way making furniture for the home, but quite complex in execution. It will be necessary to select pieces of wood that will harmoniously combine with each other and will not create problems during installation and further use of the product. Putting the leftovers together is also not easy. In this case, you will have to use screws and a large amount of glue or create an underframe (stiffening ribs).
In the first case, the boards are layered on top of each other, connected with screws and glue. Since all the boards different sizes, on the finished product you will need to trim off the protruding elements and carry out thorough sanding. The result is original and comfortable table.
The second method involves fastening the remaining materials in any convenient way (using glue, screws), followed by strengthening the structure by installing a subframe or stiffening ribs. This DIY table will be stable and durable.
If the table will be located in the courtyard near the house or in a stylized living room, then you can order a forged frame with legs for it. This will add a special flavor and originality to the product.
When the countertop is ready, you can leave it overnight to dry thoroughly. The manufacturing technology for this part of the table is approximately the same, regardless of the chosen shape of the product. The main differences between the projects in this case lie in the shape that needs to be given to the edges of the boards or a single sheet of wood.
If you are making an original corner table, then the edges of the boards will have to be made at an angle. It is very important to correctly calculate the degree of each cut so that the edges of the product are even.
However, if unevenness does result, the edges of the table will need to be sanded properly. You can also first fasten the boards together, and then draw a triangle on the workpiece and cut out the finished product.
If you are making a round table for the living room or a product with rounded edges, it is recommended to fasten the boards of the future product together, and then draw the lines of future cuts on the workpiece with a pencil or chalk.
The finished countertop for such a project will look like this:
Frame as the basis for a reliable table
The next step is to make a frame for the living room table. The frame is a wooden square (for a square or rectangular table) or a polygon (for a round product), which is attached to the tabletop and ensures the fixation of the legs.
Making a frame for a regular table is not difficult even for a beginner. To do this, you need to turn the tabletop upside down, measure the canvas, count a few centimeters in depth and make marks. Then you can draw a rectangle or square using the marks.
After this, you need to cut four pieces of wood of such sizes that correspond to the drawings on the tabletop. To make the frame, it is recommended to take timber rectangular section. A frame made of boards may not be strong enough. Then the frame needs to be attached to the tabletop using glue or self-tapping screws. The second option provides higher reliability of the design, however, in this case, the screw heads will be visible on the surface of the tabletop.
We make strong and reliable legs
At the next stage of implementation unusual project I need to make table legs. You can cut off one leg first required height(for the production of legs it is recommended to use timber square section), and then, using it as a sample, cut off the remaining 3. If you are making a corner table, then there will be not 4 legs, but 3. After completing the cutting process, you should clamp all the legs together and cut them so that they are the same length.
At the next stage of work, the legs need to be sanded using a grinding machine or sandpaper. But the top and bottom of the products should not be sanded, as this can ruin the correct cut angle. Then you need to attach the legs. To do this, the table can be turned upside down.
The first leg should be placed in one of the corners of the frame so that the top cut touches the table top, and the two sides of the leg are adjacent to the frame. Then the contact lines of the parts must be generously lubricated with glue and connected using fastening screws, which are screwed through the table frame. It is advisable to make holes for the screws in advance so that during the screwing process the screws do not split the wood.
It is better to avoid using nails and a hammer when making a standard or corner table, since nails can split the wood, and using a hammer requires special skill from the manufacturer. In addition, screws hold wood better than nails and can be removed from the product if necessary.
Be sure to make sure that the legs are attached to the table under right angle. One of the advantages of screws is that they are easily adjustable. If necessary, their position can be easily changed. Then the same operations should be performed with the remaining legs. You can also screw the legs through the tabletop, but in this case there is a risk of splitting the top of the legs. And the aesthetics of the living room table will suffer from this.
When the glue is completely dry, you need to check the product for stability by shaking it vigorously. However, if you have made a corner table, then you can skip this step. It will touch two walls of the living room or office, and this will give it additional strength. Then all that remains is to sand the surface of the finished product and coat it with wood varnish or special paint. This completes the work. Now you can complement the interior of your apartment or garden with a wonderful product.
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining room, a utility table, or installed in a living room, on a veranda, on a property, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But many people are not satisfied with purchased products in terms of a number of parameters - size, design features, form or for any other reason.
Considering that wood is relatively easy to cut and sand, making a table from it according to your own drawing, with your own hands, is not a problem for a good owner. And it will come out much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.
Room
Ideally, this is an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy will do. Working with wood on the site, under open air- means being completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are suitable ones for making furniture " square meters", then you should worry about quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on changes in wind direction and pressure), and a hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, you can work in closed space, do not stand up to any criticism. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some action is being performed. Neither precise cutting along the line, nor high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention impregnation and finishing coating paint and varnish composition) cannot be obtained.
One cannot ignore the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations: if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Tools
Their selection depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” simple design made of wood, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not pretend to grace wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then an ordinary carpenter’s kit will be enough.
For more “delicate” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design special devices will be needed.
El/jig saw. It will not be possible to make an inclined vertical cut with a regular saw, maintaining the angle exactly. The canvas will begin to “play”, and therefore the quality of work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, and also gives high accuracy cutting wood or making cuts in it.
Many of the listed devices can be rented if making furniture is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnating and other compositions
Rot protection:
- Working off machine oil– an effective, and also free, remedy. But not for dining tables.
- Flaxseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deeply into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. The downside is the high cost. But if the table is intended for eating, this is a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, or streaks, unlike processing.
- Water-polymer emulsion. It is characterized by long-lasting action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They have practically supplanted their predecessors in the “NC” category, since they are harmless and in many respects better compositions, which are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions - .
To decorate a tree:
- Clear varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can preserve the texture of the wood and shade it.
- Stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (tinting).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition of any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a discarded board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. It is more than advisable, since it is not always possible to purchase exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
It is better to ignore all advice on assembling a wooden table using nails (the reasoning is simple, quick and cheap). The reasons are as follows:
- The nail easily pricks dry wood (and this is exactly what is used; more on that below).
- It is quite difficult to direct its leg correctly (strictly vertically). In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your mistake.
- A tree, even the most protected from rot, succumbs to it over time. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2–3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if glue alone is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at joints) require reinforcement. Strengthening the strength with hardware with a thicker and longer leg is impractical. The reason is the same - the likelihood of the tree splitting. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, and corners are used.
Features of choosing wood
Some people focus on the cost of lumber, others care about the wood’s resistance to rot, and for others, its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use the same type of wood for a table unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in a utility room or garage. This is exactly what many novice “craftsmen” do, selecting the same type of boards and bars from what is left from construction or renovation and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for a living space, veranda, etc., you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if you do not have sufficient experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in your life is just a kind of training in making and gaining experience.
Tabletop. Here, strength and minimal moisture absorption come first. It is on this part of the table that something constantly spills. Optimal choice– pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness – at least 3 cm.If the size of the countertop is small, then you can use wood-based slab products (OSV, OSV and the like). But only with lamination to prevent the material from swelling when liquid gets on the table surface. For example, chipboard.
Low-grade lumber is not used in the furniture industry. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the production cycle time. But when making anything, wood of lower grades, substandard wood is just right. The same pallets left over after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not just because it is free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood can be turned into advantages with the right approach. For example, after coating with colorless varnish, the tabletop acquires a unique, original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other coniferous species), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arches are called humps. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account when laying them in a row. Samples obtained by tangential cutting are arranged alternatingly (one top down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but compliance with this recommendation eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. As wood shrinks, it will become deformed; This is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, and bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly become warped, and you will have to repair it. And here you need to decide whether to purchase highly dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second one will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- Firstly, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime in the place where the workpieces are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
- Thirdly, and perhaps this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be as expected; Even this requires practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make furniture from wood for the first time, you should focus on the simplest table for household needs made of cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Options and patterns of wooden tables
It should immediately be noted that any work related to the design and self-assembly- the process is creative. There are no stereotypes in this matter, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be like. For example, for summer cottages and small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, camping, hanging, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms intended purpose, they are made stationary, that is, unchangeable in size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are rigidly fixed; no hinge joints.
Features of assembling wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, it means that he knows how to use tools, read blueprints and work with lumber. Such home handyman There is no need to learn the basics of carpentry. But it would be worth noting a number of nuances when making a wooden table. These notes will only help in the process.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that you assemble with your own hands, the ones listed below are quite enough.
On the dowels
In this case, the parts are fastened by placing them on an adhesive composition (Fig. 1 – 3).
The nuance is that to make the “cylinders” that are inserted into pre-drilled “channels”, a tree of a denser structure than the table elements is taken. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are available for sale in any furniture showroom in several sizes. Grind them out, even having carpentry machine- an irrational waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for detachable connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level shelving, etc.).
You should not use nails to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - it will begin to “shatter”, especially if the table is intended to be installed on the territory or in an unheated room.
On the kings
It is advisable to make such connections if the table either has to be disassembled periodically, or without this it is impossible to move it through the doorway. Although not all drawers require dismantling the structure. The most commonly used options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are used mainly for garden furniture or those installed in extensions; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the desired direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation using a drill with a diameter slightly smaller than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the axial lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, to “plant” the screw, you can do without a screwdriver.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a plane is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, polishing, has to be done many times. Much depends on the type of wood and the degree of drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the fibers may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is precisely this method that can bring “problem” wood to ideal “smoothness.”
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of external decoration
- Minor defects in the form of cracks and chips are eliminated with putty.
- Once sanding is complete, all wood dust must be removed. IN in this case An ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate attachment will help out. It is recommended that after such cleaning, wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat removing any remaining dust. After this, you can safely start applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the wood.
- You can add originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the table top or legs, or a combination of textures different breeds and so on. One of the good options is artistic painting.
And finally. Work on self-production anything made of wood (the same table) is just the initial stage of mastering the skill of a “designer-assembler”. Having developed technologies and techniques on wood and acquired the necessary skills, it is enough to simply switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made even according to the simplest drawing (besides the pleasure of work and money saved) are obvious - time not wasted.
The one that is most memorable is the poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, one that does not have enough legroom underneath, one that has too little space. To help you design a table that will be remembered only for its attractive appearance, we will provide basic standards here.
TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the cover. Usually it is 68–76 cm.
SPACE ABOVE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the legs. The minimum distance is 60 cm.
KNEEL ROOM. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for your knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal distance is 36–46 cm.
SPACE ABOVE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed towards the table. Minimum – 15 cm.
ELBOW ROOM. Side space on the table for each person sitting. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.
HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each person seated. Less than 30 cm will not be enough, and more than 45 cm will be too much.
SPACE FOR A CHAIR. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away when getting up from the table. Architects claim that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.
Table with king belt
When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table as the one pictured here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original ones. In the simplest version, the table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and tsar belt form a strong, yet open, support structure. In a structural sense, many tables are tsar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called by functional purpose or their location: dining table, kitchen table, bedside table, desk. As you look further through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this “basic” table. This type of table can usually be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness creates the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the reasonable dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of a table with a tsar belt, many variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, turned, tapered or carved. Even the drawers can influence the appearance of the table.
Design options
For example, a round table with the same turned legs as the base table looks completely different. The square drawstring belt gives it this distinct look when round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the Queen Anne style, the massive drawers make it a work desk. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room for the occupant.
Country style table
This table is called by different names - country style table, retro style table, bar table - and presented in different ways. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive base with turned legs and legs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawstring belt and legs. Legs, especially those as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the legs can increase the service life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th and 18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. Surviving examples of such tables actually have massive legs - although they are heavily worn out by many feet. The table shown here is equipped with one middle leg instead of two longitudinal ones, to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is simple. The drawbars and legs are cut into the legs with spikes and reinforced with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “at the tip”.
Design options
The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our “original” table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the frame-to-leg joints. On a country-style table, you can also change the legs - depending on the appearance,
and by their configuration, as shown in the figure below.
Table with drawer and drawer
The name “table with a tsar belt” refers not to the style, but to the design. This type of table is the basis for kitchen, library, desks etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the desk since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, while in others you need the largest one possible. There are only a couple of ways to incorporate such a box into the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut out a drawer opening in the drawer frame. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Tenon joints provide rigidity. A design with two bars - supraglottic and subgular - is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.
Design options
Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you need to be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer.
An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low legs that diverge to the sides. Here, drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have plenty of knee and hip room, its "creepy" legs tend to get in the way of the sitter's feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more and you risk knocking over the table by leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval tabletop and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks that taper downwards, and the racks are connected to the tabletop brackets with double tenons into the lugs. These intermediate assemblies are in turn glued onto a square core lath to form a central support that flares upward.
The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as small table magazine type with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from simple utilitarian to multi-post. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased resistance to tilting. Although the support area may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the tabletop, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.
Put wide board on the trestles - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has been significantly improved, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a loose standing sawhorses. And when the trestles are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the trestle consists of a fairly wide stand, embedded at the bottom into the leg, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the goats, the better table resists swaying from side to side. There is a long, massive rod embedded in the racks. The tabletop is attached with screws to the trestles, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is enough space for your feet under the tabletop, you should not forget about the footrest so that when sitting at the table you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude beyond the trestle by 35–45 cm to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common methods of fastening parts of a collapsible table are shown on the next page.
Design options
Thinking about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change appearance this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses were similar to sawhorses, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found around picnic tables. Today the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many trestle tables, usually used graceful legs with “high rise”
The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to accommodate guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special runners. The runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each table cover must be at least 60 cm - the optimal space for one seated person.
Design options
The design of an extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and tabletops has virtually no effect on general design. If we're talking about about a table with drawers, then with the sliding version they work as usual. As the extension range increases, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And don’t forget about the importance of small details - for example, attaching drawers to the table top
Extendable table on one support
Table on one support - basic form table, which has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form. Such a table can easily have a sliding, folding, or hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the lid is divided into two and its halves are connected by special sliding runners. Thus, these two lid panels can be pulled apart and an additional board inserted between them. What to do with the support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the support area must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is attached to a corresponding cover panel. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.
Design options
The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small expansion, say 30–40 cm, is acceptable, then the extendable table can be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.
When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is a system with sliding sections. It is easy to make and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawer and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawer belt, its side sections, attached to long tapered runners, are laid on the drawer leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the drawers. The existing central board separating the side sections is secured with screws to the frames. The table cover is placed on top of the central board and side sections, but is not firmly secured. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops that prevent the section from being pulled out too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won’t have to search through closets and closets for them when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You simply pull out a section or two – even if the table is already set.
Design options
The system with retractable sections is compatible with any type of table support, provided that drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-legged table (as in the picture on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with shapes other than rectilinear. When folded, the side section is retracted under the lid and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look quite strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section located under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the drawers.
Double-support table with extensions
sections
A table with a sliding folding lid (tabletop) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the “main” lid; this section is connected to the lid using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. Making a sliding mechanism is not difficult. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during high humidity ridges may jam in grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. When unfolded, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the tabletop, which creates sufficient space for people to sit under the table. The Y-shape of the legs will provide sufficient space for the legs of those sitting at the ends of the table.
Design options
When folded, this table looks like a somewhat strange dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should be close to the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look strange with a small tabletop overhang. Good options Such applications include the side table (as a basic one), the side table (shown here) and other tables and tables for special purposes. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding tops are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless sliding mechanism will do here too.
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the tabletop are connected to each other by hinges. This is a common species and is present throughout American history. In any style of furniture, from William and Mary style to modern, you will find a table with a folding board. This table has folding boards as part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered into a vertical position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and slide out the support brackets from underneath it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, a table with swivel legs, a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by retractable or swivel/hinge arms. Make the folding boards relatively narrow - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections, see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was produced in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long, utilitarian table with hinged tops. This name, which can be translated as “suffering,” creates in the conscious mind a picture of a large table laid out,” laden with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a clapper table or a folding table.
Design options
While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion and shape. The table top (tabletop) may have folding boards of a round or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.
Book table is the Russian name for a table with rotating frame supports, which are hinged to the frame-leg-leg assembly. The support post is connected to the rotating post by an upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel support became the predecessor of the swivel leg. It contains many structural elements that reflect the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, tables were usually very narrow and saved significant space. A large table with two swivel legs on each folding board can be made so that the legs swivel both towards each other and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the supporting posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support posts will be positioned side by side, creating the appearance of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex turned profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.
Design options
A significant advantage of the book-table is the ability to support very large additional sections. Reliable support under the folding board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. When unfolded, it has a huge tabletop
This table can justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg sets it apart from others of its kind. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of a drawer, legs and a leg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer. The result is a lighter appearance. It is the size rather than the assembly of the swivel leg that characterizes this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called a "breakfast table" and was used both for actual breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs to provide better support for the tip boards. A hinge joint—essentially a wooden hinge—makes a swivel leg feasible. A fancier version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.
Design options
The design of a rotating table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as the “basic” one, the swivel leg was used in tables different styles. The profile of the leg will generally be an indicator of style. Chippendale style swing leg tables often have cabriole designs, but always with a claw-and-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite style tables had tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables had turned, often embossed, legs.
The unfolded folding boards transform
rectangular table to square
The advantage of a table with a frame swivel support over a table with a swivel leg is the stability created by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with swing legs also has this advantage over a table with swing legs, but also has one advantage over a table with frame swing legs. Like the swing leg table, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are pulled out through the cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the folding board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can support very wide folding boards.
Design options
Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each of which has excellent stability thanks to the additional leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded and placed against the wall, the additional leg is not noticeable. By unfolding the gaming table and extending the additional leg, you will have support at each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Extendable legs are also a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two extendable legs for each board, the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.
The table-chair owes its appearance to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was made with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function, well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid raised there is a seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more advanced in design and elegant in appearance. The product shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with tenon-to-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has an under-seat drawer for more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is attached with a dovetail mortise.
Making a table is a great simple project for a beginning woodworker, but it can also be quite difficult work for more experienced carpenters. The simplest table consists of a tabletop, legs and a supporting frame. With a little bit of lumber for these elements, you can create a table that suits your needs perfectly.
Steps
Part 1
Designing a table model- Base your choice on your own needs, such as what you'll be using your new desk for and how much space you have for it.
- Perhaps you are looking for a large, rustic dining table. Or do you want to make a small one? coffee table or an elegant bedside table.
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Make a sketch of the table on paper. Use a pencil and ruler to draw your ideal table. Don't worry about exact sizes just yet. Just imagine what your table should look like when finished. Give it the features you need, and only then think about the size.
- When the approximate design of the table is ready, mark the appropriate dimensions on it with a pencil. The specific sizes of lumber you plan to use can be found at hardware stores.
- The size of the table will depend on its type. For example, a dining table is usually noticeably larger than a bedside table.
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Calculate how much lumber you will need. Break your desk project down into its components basic elements. U simple table there will be elements such as a table top, legs and a supporting frame connecting them. If you plan to equip the table with additional elements, do not forget to take into account the materials for them.,
- For example, try making a table with a tabletop from three boards with a cross-section of 5 cm x 30 cm and a length of 150 cm, legs from four pieces of timber with a cross-section of 10 cm x 10 cm and a length of 70 cm, and a support frame from two boards with a cross-section of 5 cm x 10 cm and 75 cm long, as well as two boards with a section of 5 cm x 10 cm and a length of 145 cm.
- Purchase additional lumber for any additional elements, which you want to endow your table with. For example, you can add leg crossbars to increase the strength of the table or provide sliding tabletop elements.
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To make a table that will last, choose inexpensive but durable wood, such as pine. Pine is not a particularly hard wood, but it is easy for beginners to work with. You can easily make a table from it that will last for decades. Also, durable tables are often made from solid maple and cherry.
- Consider other inexpensive wood options. For example, construction grade fir can be used to make tables. Also, good furniture is made from poplar, but this wood is more difficult to stain with stain.
- For outdoor furniture It is better to opt for mahogany, cypress or specially treated wood, such as pine, impregnated with preservatives under pressure.
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Buy lumber and cut it into parts. Once you know exactly what you need, go to a hardware store and buy lumber. Many stores can even cut materials to your size, so don’t be lazy to ask about this service. This will reduce the amount of work ahead so that you can start assembling the table right away.
- If you have a workbench, vice, disk or regular hand saw, you can cut the wood yourself. When working with a saw, be sure to wear polycarbonate safety glasses and a respirator.
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Mark the position of the support frame on the underside of the tabletop. The support frame is attached to the table top and table legs, preventing these parts from moving. From the edges of the tabletop, measure approximately 2.5 cm deep. Then, with a pencil, draw a line here that will mark the place where the support frame is attached to the tabletop.
- Having a 2.5 cm indent will prevent a situation where the support frame sticks out from under the tabletop. In addition, this way you leave a little under the table more space for a free position of the legs between its legs and, in general, improve the appearance of the table.
- If you have not yet cut the wood for the supporting frame, to calculate the dimensions of its parts, use the dimensions of the tabletop (length and width), taking into account the required distance from the edge and the cross-section of the boards used.
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Glue the support frame to the tabletop and clamp it in a vice. Place the supporting frame pieces along the previously drawn lines. You will have two long pieces along the edges along the table and two short pieces across it (and inside the long pieces). Cover inner side parts with an even layer of wood glue to attach them to the tabletop. Secure the pieces with a vice overnight to prevent them from moving.
- You can also securely attach these parts to the tabletop using self-tapping screws. In this case, use a deep drilling machine to pre-create basting holes for the screws.
- Alternatively, you can first attach the legs to the table and then connect them to the support frame using self-tapping screws. To make the legs stronger, you can additionally attach corner ties inside the support frame.
Check out various options tables to decide what kind of table you want to make. There are a lot various types tables, so take the time to choose your specific project wisely. Go online and look for photos of tables, paying attention to the style of each item. You can also find possible ideas in furniture catalogs and carpentry magazines.
Part 3
Attaching the legs-
Cut legs of the required length from the timber. Attaching the legs is the most difficult operation in making a table. If you do not attach the legs well, you will not end up with a strong and reliable table, but rather a flimsy, unstable structure. Start by measuring the exact length of each leg and sawing off the corresponding pieces of beams with a saw.
- Even if your materials were cut at a shop, the pieces may still be slightly uneven. Check their size before attaching the legs to the table.
- If you are making the legs yourself, first rough cut the pieces with a circular saw. Then fold the legs evenly, clamp them in a vice and, if necessary, trim them to the same size.
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Glue the legs at the corners of the support frame. The legs must be placed in the corners of the support frame, where its parts fit together. Apply adhesive in the corners to the inside of the support frames and the underside of the tabletop. Then place the legs in the corners and secure with a vice.
- You can wait for the glue to dry, but this is not necessary. Just keep the legs securely in place with a vice so they don't move when you use the screws to secure them.
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Drill pilot holes in the support frame and table legs. The screws should be centered on each area where the leg meets the support frame. Drill holes from the side of the support frame towards the leg. Use a drill bit with a diameter of about 6mm (but thinner than the screws used) to make the first pilot hole in the wood of the leg. Repeat the same on the other side of the support frame. In total you will have 8 basting holes.
- If you want to additionally fasten the legs with crossbars, the process will be somewhat more complicated. You will need a circular saw to make grooves on each leg that are slightly less than half the thickness of the timber. On each leg it will be necessary to make 2 grooves (one on each side where the crossbars will be attached.
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Attach the table legs to the support frame with self-tapping screws. Use two screws with a diameter of about 7 mm for each leg. Screw the screws through the support frame into the legs. Use a ratchet screwdriver for this.
- Do not screw in self-tapping screws with a drill. They can go very tightly and accidentally break off.
- Make sure the legs are level and at right angles to the tabletop before driving the screws into them.
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Wait for the glue you used to completely dry and set. Read the manufacturer's instructions that came with the adhesive to find out how long you'll have to wait. If you leave the table alone overnight, you can be sure that the glue will dry. Usually the table can be turned over correct position even before this date.
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Turn the table over on its legs to check its stability. Carefully turn the table over. It can get quite heavy! Place it on the floor and try to rock it. If the table is wobbly, it means the legs are not perfect enough. They may be different lengths - in which case you will need to flip the table back over and shorten the legs to the same length.
- Although the legs can be cut with a circular saw or hacksaw, it is easy to make a mistake and shorten them too much. Instead, it's best to sand down some of the legs a bit with 80-grit sandpaper and then sand them down sandpaper with grain 220.
- The position of the legs themselves can also create problems. Make sure they fit snugly against the tabletop and support frame. If necessary, unscrew the screws and correct the position of the legs.
Part 4
Wood sanding and tinting-
Sand the table with 80 grit sandpaper. This is a coarse sandpaper, so it will make the wood a little rough, which is completely normal. Just think about what the finished table will look like! If you look closely at the wood, you will notice the direction of its grain (lines). Sand the entire surface of the wood in the direction of the grain (including the underside of the table and legs).
- Stains are different. Oil-based compositions penetrate wood well and create a fairly lasting result. Water-soluble stains are easy to apply, but do not absorb evenly into the wood. Gel stains are quite thick and create a strong tinting effect.
- To properly treat wood with stain, treat only one side of the table at a time.
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When the first coat of stain has dried, apply a second coat. Let the first coat of stain dry overnight before painting the wood again. It is likely that the first coat of stain will look dull and uneven. Cover the table with another coat of stain exactly as you did before, then let it dry again. When you return to the table again, it should be ready.
- Before leaving the table to dry, wipe off any excess stain. This will allow you to achieve a uniform toning effect without too dark spots.
- Search the Internet for patterns for making tables. A variety of detailed diagrams can be downloaded for free or purchased for a small fee.
- Create the table you want! For the table you can use not only different types of wood, but also other materials. For example, the table legs can be made of pipes, and the tabletop itself can be made of metal or glass.
- When assembling wooden furniture, be sure to drill pilot holes, especially in wood that is 2.5 cm thick or less, to prevent it from cracking.
- Consider reusing lumber. This may require more effort in designing and shading the table, but will often result in a more interesting final result.
- Fasten wood exclusively with self-tapping screws. Nails hold less well and can lead to cracks. In addition, the self-tapping screw will be easier to unscrew if you make a mistake.
Warnings
- Be careful when working with tools! If not handled correctly, a drill or other piece of equipment can be quite dangerous.
- Be sure to use protective equipment when working with tools. Wear earplugs and safety glasses. Wear a dust mask and avoid wearing long clothing that could get caught on tools.
- Many tinting products contain toxic substances that evaporate during use, so work with them in a respirator and in a well-ventilated room.
An integral attribute of every home is coffee table. At first glance, it may not seem the most the right furniture, the purchase of which is postponed for a long time.
But it is precisely such interior items that make it truly cozy and comfortable. On the coffee table you can place all the things you need that should be at hand: books, remote controls, keys and other small items.
DIY wooden coffee table
If you still haven’t been able to choose the option that suits you or have difficulties with the design, we will share with you ideas that will tell you how to make a coffee table with your own hands.
A wooden coffee table will fit perfectly into almost any interior style.
Wooden coffee table
The tree is especially popular among many various materials, from which furniture is made. If you care for it correctly wooden furniture, it will serve you for a very long time. In addition, by working independently, you can create a unique piece of furniture.
To make a wooden coffee table yourself, you will need to prepare everything necessary materials and tools. You can place the finished structure directly on the floor or additionally make four legs on which your table will be located.
An example of how you can make a coffee table with your own hands from wooden pallets
Using multiple drawers, you can also create great coffee tables for your living room. Four large drawers fastened together form a stylish table. There is usually a gap in the middle of the drawers, which can be decorated with various items.
Living room table made of wooden boxes
Photo: DIY coffee table
A coffee table made of wooden drawers is a great place to store all the necessary things
DIY rectangular coffee table
Modern look
You can also make a table that will look modern and stylish. But before choosing a specific design for the table, determine the overall composition of the objects in the room. It is important to maintain a consistent style in every item that is used in the room.
Stylish wooden table with metal legs
Pay attention to retro style, which is also particularly popular today.
A real work of art - an elegant low coffee table made of wood
An effective design move - a furniture duo in the living room
Decorating a coffee table
You can turn your coffee table into a stylish and trendy piece of furniture with the help of decor. Thanks to this, the most inconspicuous table will become a real work of art. You can decorate it with anything: old wallpaper, shells, mirrors, fabric or mosaics.
Use textiles to decorate your coffee table to give it originality
Think about your mood. After a long day of work, you want to return to an atmosphere of calm, comfort and coziness. Therefore, for table decor it is better to select elements that will fit perfectly into the general interior apartments and will not disturb the harmony.
Mobile coffee tables on wheels are a beautiful piece of furniture that will transform any living room.
Materials and items that can be used more than once
A wooden pallet is a universal item from which you can make anything with your own hands. Perhaps the easiest way to build a coffee table, since the pallet is, in fact, a ready-made tabletop. It can be painted in any color, applied with a pattern, symbol or ornament. Wheels or wooden blocks can act as legs.
Transform a wooden pallet into practical designer furniture
Table design options depend only on your skills, preferences and, of course, the interior of the room
A glass tabletop can set the tone for the entire interior
Suitcases and old radiators
Your old suitcase can become an integral part of the interior of the apartment. To make a table out of it, just attach four legs. A coffee table made from a battery will also look unusual and original.
