The floor in the garage at the dacha is which is better. How to make your own floor - wood and concrete

The garage serves not only to protect the iron horse from car thieves or weather conditions, but also acts as a kind of storage of “very necessary” things. One way or another, quite a lot of time is spent in it, and therefore car enthusiasts approach its arrangement with special care. Owners select materials for the construction of walls and roofs based on two main criteria: taste preferences and the financial side of the issue. Unfortunately, less attention is paid to the organization of floors. The article will talk about how to make a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands.

Types of flooring

The most common types of flooring are earthen and cement; wood flooring is less common. The first two options are ideal if this room is used under intensive load for its intended purpose. A plank floor is relevant when the vehicle is operated in the warm season or on weekends.

Below is a brief description of the most popular types of material used for garage flooring.

Concrete

Such floors are made with strict adherence to technology, otherwise after a short time cracks will appear on the surface, which will render it completely unusable. Well, if you follow all the rules, then such a floor will last at least 20 years.

Among the disadvantages of a concrete base, one can note low resistance to abrasive wear, which leads to the formation of dust. In addition, spilled liquid penetrates deeply into the pores and remains there forever. Can act as a savior polyurethane coating, but its cost cancels out the affordability of a concrete floor.

Plates

Ceramic or porcelain tiles are distinguished by both aesthetics and practicality. Their surface is simply unable to absorb liquid substances, A upper layer The glaze is easy to clean even without the use of special cleaning compounds.

Porcelain tiles are quite an expensive option for furnishing a garage. Preparation of the base, and the installation itself, requires labor-intensive work. It is recommended to lay the material 2-3 years after the completion of the garage, that is, when the structure shrinks.
Ceramic products also have a significant disadvantage - low resistance to mechanical shock. And, as you know, falling of various pieces of iron, especially in such premises, is not at all uncommon.

Wooden floor in garage

The lowest price is for a wooden floor in a garage, and besides, such a floor is considered warm. Therefore, it is much more pleasant to repair a car or inspect it while lying on your back.

Wooden floor in garage photo

Among the disadvantages, high absorbent properties can be noted. Do not forget that wood is classified according to its resistance to decay and is divided into fire hazard classes. But treatment with modern protective agents will extend the life of the flooring and protect it from fire.
Of course, the floors can also be covered with special rubber tiles, which certainly are not afraid of any loads. As already mentioned, the choice of coverage depends on material capabilities.

In any case, if you carry out the arrangement of floors on your own, you can save quite a decent amount on the purchase of, for example, tools, spare parts for a car, hanging shelves or racks for storing various equipment.

How to Install a Wooden Garage Floor on an Existing Subfloor

Installation of the material must be carried out on a solid foundation so that the work done and the funds invested are not in vain.

Laying on a concrete base

A smooth surface with minor defects, such as surface cracks and chips, allows you to install a floorboard on top of it. Lumber is fastened using screws and plastic dowels or anchor bolts.
If the floor has large unevenness, then it is recommended to pour a screed, which will ensure not only the same level over the entire surface, but also strengthen the base.

Before work, make sure that the cement coating is completely dry. To do this, you do not need to have a special-purpose device. You can also determine the humidity using a handy method; to do this, attach a small square of plastic or a piece of film to the surface hermetically with tape.
After a few days, the material is removed; if many large drops are found on the inside, then the board cannot yet be laid. In this case, it is necessary to give the base more time to dry or take additional measures to reduce humidity. Minor condensation allows scheduled work to be carried out.
In any case, polyethylene or roofing felt is first laid out, which will prevent moisture from entering the base. Laying is carried out with spades on the walls and the width of the overlap of the material must be at least 10 cm. The seams are taped with tape or moisture-resistant mastic.

Laying on joists

If the surface is relatively flat, then the boards can be mounted on pre-installed logs. Here, small cross-section bars (50x50 or 40x50 mm) are fixed to a concrete base around the perimeter of the room. The same lumber is used as cross members. For more reliable fixation, the logs are attached to the beams using metal corners. They are installed parallel to the entrance/exit of the garage in increments of no more than 50 cm.

It should be remembered here that the floor level will rise by 70-80 mm, depending on the width of the selected lumber, for example, 50 mm timber and batten 25-30 mm. Thus, a difference is formed, a step between the floor and the entrance to the room.

Laying on a wooden surface

Strengthening an existing plank floor by attaching new floorboards is only possible if you are completely confident that the structure can withstand heavy loads. If there is even the slightest doubt, then the old coating must be dismantled.
Here, logs and other wooden elements are inspected, damaged parts of the frame are replaced. At capital works a layer of waterproofing material is laid. It is advisable to fill the space between the joists with expanded clay or dry sand, the floors will become warmer.

The satisfactory condition of the old coating allows the boards to be fastened, but only in a perpendicular direction.

Wood processing

It would not be superfluous to mention that wooden elements need to be treated with protective agents. Preparations are selected individually, since some are responsible for uniform shrinkage, reduce cracking, others guarantee protection against rotting, and others prevent ignition.

It is worth noting that it is not advisable to purchase miraculous “5 in 1” solutions, since one product cannot simultaneously protect against all “misfortunes”. Therefore, when going to the store, it is better to have at least basic knowledge about their classification, their purposes, and the best manufacturers.

Protective compounds are divided into 3 types:

Lucky after drying, they form a transparent film that has bioprotective properties, that is, it protects the surface from premature rotting and woodworm damage. Such coatings prevent cracking of the material and do not lose their original qualities under the influence of temperature changes.

Paints not only give a decorative appearance, but also protect the painted elements from the short-term influence of moisture (periodically formed condensation). For processing, it is better to select paint based on organic solvents.
Antiseptics- these are multifunctional products that can protect wood from biodegradation (mold formation, the appearance and spread of house fungus). The combined version of antiseptics also has fire-fighting properties.

The lags are coated with water-repellent agents, which are characterized by a deeper degree of penetration, or antiseptic impregnations solvent-based, forming a thick protective film. Preparations based on borates and fluorides are ideal.

You can use an oil analogue, only here you need to make sure that the lumber being processed is absolutely dry, otherwise it will be wet inner part the material will contribute to the development of fungal spores, which in turn will lead to its complete destruction.

Floorboards are treated with preparations that provide effective fire protection and contain copper hydroxide.

The best manufacturers

The top three included companies that produce the most effective means for the protection of wooden surfaces:

from domestic producers - "Wood healer", "Bioks", "Biosept";

foreign brands represent - “ TIKKURILA" (Finland), "Dulux" (England), "ALLICATOR" (Germany).

Folk recipes

Since ancient times, wood has played an important role in national culture, so people have always been concerned about how to protect buildings from the harmful effects unfavorable conditions. Over such a long period of time, many effective methods have accumulated:

silicate glue diluted with water, about 1 liter of water takes 400 grams of glue;
copper sulfate is also known for its bactericidal properties (100 grams of copper sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water);
boric acid is a popular "preservative". The solution is prepared as follows: take 50 grams for 5 liters of boiling water boric acid and 1 kg of salt.

Installing a wooden floor in a garage from scratch

Wooden flooring in a built garage can be done with your own hands in a matter of hours, since logs are usually laid at the stage of constructing the foundation. But, if the construction was carried out in a lightweight version, then more time and effort will have to be put in.

The zero level of the future floor is determined. As a rule, the “threshold” of the garage is taken as a basis. The soil is selected to a depth of approximately 50 cm, more accurate calculations are made as follows: 10-15 cm will “go” to the sand cushion, 10-15 cm - crushed stone layer, 10 cm - cross-section of the timber (joists) and plus the thickness of the floorboard 2.5- 3 cm.
Each layer is moistened and compacted. To do this, it is not at all necessary to use special equipment. A homemade tool is suitable here, where a square piece of board is attached to the end of a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm with nails or screws, which will be used as a sole.

Be sure to line the waterproofing material with an overlap on the walls slightly exceeding the zero mark. The joints of the material for sealing are glued with construction tape or coated with mastic.
All wooden elements are treated with antiseptic and fire retardant preparations.
A 100x100 mm beam is installed around the perimeter; this section will help distribute the load of both the flooring itself and the weight of the car. In the corners, lumber is fastened with metal corners. A level is used to check the horizontal position, and if necessary, add scraps of plywood or boards.

Parallel to the entrance, logs from the same timber are installed. The distance between them is maintained within 50 cm, but no more. Fixation is carried out with self-tapping screws and L-shaped metal products.
Expanded clay or dry sand can be poured into the resulting cells.
Floorboards are laid on top, located according to the movement of the car. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws in two places to each joist.

Wooden floor in the garage step by step video

Material calculation

For arranging wooden flooring in the garage standard size 3x6 m, you will need:

timber 100x100 mm - 32 m;
metal corner - 32 pieces;
floorboards 25x150x6000 mm - 20 pieces;
wood screws 4.2x65 mm - 570 pieces or 2 kg.

For a tighter and more reliable fit of the floorboards to the joists, it is recommended to drill holes for hardware using a drill whose diameter is 0.5-1 mm larger than the thickness of the screw. The same applies to corner metal fasteners.
Before you begin laying the floors, strips of rolled roofing felt should be glued to the edges on both sides of each board, or secured with a construction stapler.

Compliance with all the rules and technology for arranging a wooden floor in the garage will allow you to repair your car in comfortable conditions, even in winter.

When building a garage, special attention should be paid to the floor. If the surface becomes damp, produces a lot of dust, and cannot withstand the load, this will negatively affect the safety of the car. Do DIY garage floor There are several ways, each of which has its own advantages. The classic base is considered to be a concrete screed, but other flooring options are also in demand: earthen, self-leveling, wooden and even tiled.

The cheapest floor is earthen. It does not require financial costs, has a very simple structure, but at the same time it has low strength and strongly absorbs moisture. Such coverage can be done temporarily if the construction budget is very limited. This option is also suitable for those who do not often use the garage and are on the road most of the time.

The process of arranging an earthen floor is very simple:

when marking the area for the foundation, the entire plant layer is removed;
after pouring the base, the internal space is cleared and leveled;
Using a tamper, carefully compact the base;
when the roof has already been installed in the garage, a layer of greasy clay 10 cm thick is poured onto the floor;
carefully compact the base.

You can do without clay, but it significantly increases the strength of the floor and provides good protection from moisture.

Concrete floor

Concrete screed is the most popular coating in private garages. This type of floor can withstand very strong and uneven loads, is not afraid of fire, is resistant to various oils, solvents and gasoline, and is durable. Concrete can absorb moisture, but correct device floor completely eliminates such risks. Although the amount of work is quite large and will require a lot of time and physical effort, the process itself has a simple technology.

Construction stages:

making an inspection hole;
floor level markings;
soil preparation;
backfilling with sand and crushed stone;
laying waterproofing;
reinforcement;
filling the floor.

All work is carried out after the construction of the garage is completed, but before the interior decoration of the premises begins.

Step 1. Preparing the pit

The inspection pit is not mandatory element each garage; It is only needed by those who repair their car themselves. It should be noted that a hole cannot be made in an area where the groundwater level is 2.5 m. The place for it is usually chosen in the center of the room, retreating a certain distance from the entrance.

Having determined the location of the hole, they dig a pit. Its parameters:

width 75-80 cm + 30 cm for waterproofing;
depth – height of the garage owner + 30 cm;
length – car length + 1.5 m.

The boundaries of the pit are marked on the ground and they begin to dig. During work, you need to ensure that all walls remain as vertical and even as possible. After excavating the soil, the floor is compacted with a tamper, then a thin layer of clay is poured and tamped again. Next, the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of roofing felt, the edges of which extend slightly onto the walls.

A concrete mixture is poured over the roofing felt to a height of 7 to 10 cm. The top of the concrete is leveled and left to dry. There is no need to cover the hole while the solution dries.

Step 2. Laying walls

When the concrete in the pit is sufficiently hardened, you can lay out the walls. Red burnt bricks and aerated concrete blocks are best suited for these purposes. Laying is carried out along the entire perimeter at once; each wall cannot be laid separately. So, the first row is laid level, leaving about 15-20 cm between the walls of the pit and the brick. The protruding mortar is immediately removed with a trowel so that when finishing the pit you do not have to knock down the hardened concrete.

Wall masonry. Metal corner around the perimeter

All subsequent rows are laid out with offset vertical seams, which helps strengthen the walls. To ensure that the masonry remains vertical, check the level every 2-3 rows; It is not recommended to build more than 6 rows of bricks at a time. The last row of bricks should be 6-7 cm below the threshold level. Subsequently on brick walls a metal corner will be laid, which should not protrude above the floor surface.

Step 3. Waterproofing the pit

After two or three days, the walls of the pit can be waterproofed with outside. Using a thick roller with a long handle, the brick surface is coated with primer and left to dry. Next, the bitumen mastic is heated, and with the same roller it is applied to the walls in a dense layer. The free space behind the pit walls is filled with soil after the mastic has completely dried. The voids should be filled with soil layer by layer with obligatory tamping, otherwise the ground will subside under the concrete covering and cracks will form.

Step 4. Marking the floor level

Marking is done with a laser or water level; a regular construction level is not suitable here. If you have a laser level, the whole process will take a matter of minutes, but marking with a water level will take more time. For convenience, markings are made at a distance of 1 m from the subfloor, and then transferred to the zero mark. So, first, measure 1 m upward from the threshold and put a mark with a pencil. Then one end of the level is placed against the mark, and the other against the adjacent wall, where the water level in the tube will indicate the location of the next mark.

Thus, 2-3 marks are left on each wall; after that, measure down 102 cm from the upper beacons and also make marks with a pencil. All that remains is to mark the marking line with a coated cord, and the zero level is determined.

Step 5. Preparing the base

During the construction of a garage, excess soil and construction debris remain inside the building. All this must be removed, after which an additional layer of earth must be removed to a depth of 30 cm. The depth should be the same over the entire area, so all visible irregularities should be cleaned off with a shovel. Using a tamper, the soil itself is thoroughly compacted, then a layer of sand and clay 3-5 cm thick is poured, spilled with water and the tamper is taken up again. The higher the density of the base, the stronger the floor will be.

Step 6. Arrangement of the sand and gravel cushion

The thickness of the gravel layer is 10 cm. If the garage is large, it will be difficult to pour a layer of the required thickness without additional measurements, so you can simplify the task. To do this, wooden pegs are driven into the ground. required height, arranging them in even rows. Having filled the gravel to this level, you should compact it thoroughly, remove the pegs and fill the voids with the same gravel.

In a small garage you can do it differently: in each corner and in the middle of the walls at a level of 10 cm you need to put a bright mark. This technique will help you quickly fill in gravel without wasting time on measurements. The next layer is sand; it can be fine or coarse-grained, even with an admixture of clay, but without debris and large lumps. For greater compaction, the sand cushion is spilled with water and compacted again. Finally, check the plane of the base with a large building level or rule to avoid the formation of unevenness.

Crushed stone with a diameter of 40-50 mm is poured onto the sand, the thickness of this layer is about 5 cm. The surface is leveled, compacted, and covered a small amount sand and moisturize. They tamp again, trying not to leave any sharp protrusions. Finally, the base is poured with lean concrete, the layer thickness of which is 3 cm.

Mix lean concrete in the following proportion:

1 part cement;
3 parts sifted sand;
6 parts fine crushed stone.

This solution has low strength, but it perfectly levels the base under the screed. Concrete is poured onto crushed stone, leveled over the entire area using a rule and left to dry.

Component	Description
Cement	Cement is an astringent binder that holds the remaining elements of concrete together and gives the mixture a uniform, stone-like structure. To make concrete mortar, it is better to use M500 or M400 cement (pozzolanic or slag)
Sand	Sand is a filler that ensures normal hardening of the mixture and closes the voids between the large components of the mixture. For concrete, washed, sifted sand with fine, medium, and less often coarse fractions is used.
Crushed stone	Various crushed stones can be used in the concrete composition - stone, slag, limestone, gravel, etc. For lean concrete, stone, gravel and mixed types of aggregate, both fine and coarse grains, are used
Water	It is a reagent for the cement hydration reaction, which leads to the hardening of the solution. For the optimal occurrence of this reaction, it is important to maintain the correct proportion of reagents (cement and water), which is usually called the water-cement ratio or W/C module
Supplements	Plasticizers, water repellents, antiseptics, sealants, surfactants, air-entraining agents, hardening retarders or accelerators, etc.

Step 7: Waterproof the floor

When the concrete dries, it is treated with any primer mixture.

Special membranes are used as waterproofing, roll materials, bitumen mastic and liquid rubber. Ruberoid, film, membrane are spread on the floor, and the edges are placed on the walls. The canvases must be laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Very often, roofing felt is laid directly on hot mastic, then the canvas is tightly glued to the base and reliably protects the floor from moisture.

Step 8. Reinforcement

For reinforcement, you will need a metal mesh with cell sizes of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is made from reinforcement with a cross section of 5 mm. The mesh is laid so that there is about 5 cm between its edges and the walls. The same distance should be left around the perimeter of the inspection hole. In addition, the mesh should be slightly raised above the surface, so plastic or metal supports 2 cm high are placed under the rods.

Step 9. Installation of beacons

In order for the floor to be perfectly level, you need to screed along the beacons. Metal corners and profiles can act as such beacons, but it is most convenient to use steel pipes small diameter, for example 25 mm. To fix the guides, mix a little solution, and the pipes themselves are generously lubricated with machine oil. The beacons should be located in even horizontal rows, the distance between which is 1.2-1.5 m. Heaps of mortar are thrown along the wall on the floor every 15 cm and the first pipe is laid on them. Using a level, set it horizontally and at the same time level it to the zero mark. When all the guides are installed, you should check their horizontal position again. To do this, the level is placed perpendicular to 2 or 3 beacons.

Along the perimeter of the garage, it is necessary to leave small gaps between the screed and the walls, 1-2 cm wide, and fill them with damper tape. This will help avoid damage to the coating when the garage shrinks. Now all that remains is to weld the frame from the corners for the inspection hole. A steel corner 50x50 mm is cut into 4 parts according to the size of the pit and welded in the form of a rectangle. The finished frame is primed and dried, and then laid on brick walls. If desired, you can paint the corner with red lead - this will provide additional protection against corrosion. Under the weight of the concrete solution, the frame may be slightly deformed; To prevent this from happening, the corners should be strengthened with temporary spacers made of timber.

Step 10. Filling the screed

First you need to calculate the approximate volume of the solution. To do this, the floor area is multiplied by the height of the screed, which is equal to 5 cm. For example, if the area is 35 square meters, then the screed will require at least 1.75 cubic meters concrete mixture. A solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:3, and it is better to take grade 400-500 cement, and sand can be replaced with screenings.

The solution should be quite thick and homogeneous, so it should be mixed very thoroughly. The finished mass is poured between the beacons so that the solution covers them, and then a metal rule is carried along the pipes and all excess is pulled off. The rule must be pressed firmly on both sides and applied evenly, then the surface of the screed is simultaneously compacted and leveled.

1-2 days after pouring, you need to carefully remove the guides from the screed. Since the pipes have been lubricated with oil, this process does not require much effort. The grooves from the beacons are filled with the same solution and the surface is left to dry. To avoid cracking, it is recommended to moisten the floor regularly; You can also cover the surface with wet sawdust and periodically spray it with water. After 10-12 days, the sawdust is swept away, and the floor dries out in the open state. It usually takes about 4 weeks for the concrete screed to dry completely.

Ceramic tile covering

This option is quite expensive, since high-quality floor tiles are expensive. But this floor looks great, is easy to clean, and produces very little dust. Tiles must be purchased with a wear resistance class of at least 5, and if there is no heating in the garage, then frost-resistant. It is recommended that installation be carried out no earlier than 2 years after the construction of the garage, otherwise the coating will deform during shrinkage.

To work you will need:

primer;
tile adhesive;
ceramic tile;
notched spatula;
level;
plastic crosses for seams;
grout.

Step 1. Preparing the base

The tiles are laid on a concrete base. If rough screed It has received damage during operation, it is necessary to repair all irregularities with cement mortar, clean it of dust and cover it with two layers of primer. High-quality screed Simply priming is enough.

Step 2. Floor covering

The adhesive composition is diluted according to the instructions and allowed to brew for 10 minutes. Apply part of the adhesive to the back side of the tile, and apply the rest to the floor with a notched trowel. Place the tiles on the floor, level them and press them gently. Plastic spacers are inserted between adjacent fragments to ensure uniform seams. After leveling, the tiles are checked with a level to ensure the floor is perfectly level. Glue should not get on the front side of the ceramic; all accidental splashes and smears should be wiped off immediately with a rag.

Step 3. Grouting the joints

After installation, you need to wait 3 days and rub the seams. For this purpose it is used special composition based on cement. The seams are moistened, and then the working mixture is applied with a narrow rubber spatula. After filling the seam, remove the excess with a gentle, sharp movement. When the process is completed, allow the grout to set for half an hour, after which the seams are washed with a damp sponge. You can drive your car into the garage after 2 weeks, when the glue has completely dried and the floor has acquired the required strength.

Self-leveling flooring is expensive, but the benefits of such a coating well justify the cost. The service life of a self-leveling floor is at least 40 years, it has very high strength, is easy to clean, does not burn, and has a perfectly flat surface. Epoxy and polyurethane industrial mixtures are best suited for garages. You can carry out the installation yourself, because the filling technology is very simple.

Step 1. Preparatory work

The rough base is cleaned of dust and all cracks are sealed. Recesses with a depth of more than 3 cm are also filled with solution and dried. After this, the floor is treated with a primer twice.

Step 2. Pouring the mixture

The floor solution is prepared exactly according to the instructions, otherwise the quality of the coating will decrease. During operation, the temperature in the garage should not be less than 10 and above 25 degrees. If the room is large, pouring is done in stages, dividing the area into several sections. Level the mixture with a needle roller, carefully removing air bubbles. It will take about 20 days to dry, after which the coating is ready for use.

Wood floors are very rare in garages. Despite the ease of installation, low cost and environmental friendliness of the material, this coating is not popular. Even the densest wood cannot withstand the loads of a car for more than 5 years. In addition, wooden floors are highly flammable, and in a garage where gasoline, oil and solvent are stored, this is doubly dangerous.

If you still want to make a wooden floor, the installation technology is simple and straightforward:

Video - DIY garage floor

How to make a garage floor with your own hands in the country or at home? Every motorist has asked himself this question at least once in his life. After all, in order for the structure not only to protect the “iron horse” from unfavorable conditions, but also to allow the car owner to carry out various repair or maintenance work in more comfortable conditions, it is necessary to take care of this important architectural element.

Requirements for coating in a garage

Motorists have increased demands on the floor in the garage. After all, he is constantly under the influence of:

heavy vehicle weight;
various chemicals (gasoline, oil, diesel, etc.);
moisture;

In addition, it is worth considering that the influence of all of the above factors is carried out whole year, both in heat and cold, which should also be taken into account when choosing the future garage flooring. After all, in addition to comfortable conditions, the floor must also meet all safety standards - be fire resistant, its coating should not be slippery when exposed to moisture, and it should not be destroyed when exposed to aggressive chemicals.

Types of flooring

Today, garage floors are finished using the following materials:

soil;
concrete;
wooden boards;
ceramic tiles.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account before you start arranging your garage.

Dirt floor

It can be seen quite often among motorists who store their cars in a shell. This type of garage is unpretentious, mobile and can be placed in almost every yard, which is facilitated by its small size. It is also worth noting that it is not always possible to install another floor in a shell. Since they are mainly placed in the courtyards of cities, where any large-scale construction works It’s simply not possible, so as not to spoil the landscape. This type of garage is also used in the country as a temporary shelter for the “iron horse”.

In truth, the use of dirt flooring is not limited to shell owners. By virtue of his positive qualities can also be used in other types of garages, including capital ones. What are the pros and cons of this natural coating? Firstly, to implement its arrangement you do not need any financial investments. Secondly, you can lay the earthen covering yourself without much difficulty or the use of special equipment. Thirdly, to equip the earthen flooring you don’t need to spend a lot of time, all the work can be completed in a day.

However, not everything is so smooth. Finishing the floor with earth also has negative sides:

earthen flooring is fragile, it is highly susceptible to the influence of temperature and moisture;
it is also greatly destroyed by chemicals (soil deteriorates).

So, how to make a floor in a garage in a country house or at home? The most budget option:

First, the turf (top layer of soil) is cut off;
after which the earthen covering is leveled;
at the very end you need to compact everything thoroughly. This will improve the physical qualities of the coating (hardness, wear resistance).

Experienced motorists advise not to be lazy and use clay to compact the base. Thanks to its properties, it increases the strength of the floor and also provides protection from moisture. The minimum layer thickness is 10 centimeters.

Concrete covering

Concrete is the most popular flooring among motorists. It is available almost everywhere, in garages at the dacha or near residential buildings. Concrete coating is the basis of almost any building, as it meets almost all requirements:

moisture resistance;
strength;
fire safety;
wear resistance;
durability.

In addition, it can serve as a basis for any gender. For example, you can easily lay tiles, rubber, or boards on it. In addition, installing a concrete floor is not a very expensive type of construction work.

Its disadvantages can be noted:

high dust formation during operation;
absorbs various chemicals, which then cannot be removed;
Installation of concrete pavement is a labor-intensive type of work.

Concrete floor installation

The actual laying of the concrete floor depends on the foundation that the garage owner received. If it is a reinforced concrete slab, then there is not much work expected. Since the foundation already exists, it is not so difficult to build a future covering on it. You just need to fill the surface with concrete along the beacons, and that’s it. If the garage is on the ground, then in this case you will have to do a lot of work, since in this case you first need to make a rough foundation. The internal structure of a standard concrete floor consists of layers:

gravel;
sand;
waterproofing layer;
foam or other insulation;
protective film;
layer of concrete with reinforcement;
finishing screed.

Concrete floor laying technology

the first thing that needs to be done is to arrange the foundation of the future floor. To do this, all unstable and “loose” soil is cut off. After which, the bottom of the resulting “pit” is compacted and leveled. It is recommended to use clay as the first level of waterproofing. You can lubricate the compacted bottom with its solution;
then you need to mark the floor. To do this, a rope is stretched around the perimeter of the garage at the level of the height of the future covering;
Next, a special “filter pad” is installed. Since its device has several layers, to improve control over their levels, after marking the floor, it is recommended to install posts along the perimeter of the garage. With their help, it will be possible to visually control the thickness of the powder layer levels. The filter pad itself consists of sand and gravel. However, in order for its production to occur correctly, it is necessary to take into account the geological features of the soil. The thickness of the layers of the first and second elements will depend on this indicator. So if the ground is stable, then the maximum thickness of the gravel layer should not exceed 30-45 cm. When the soil under the garage has high humidity, then earthworks more is expected and the required layer of gravel in this case will be 80 cm. After filling the gravel, it must be compacted. At the same time, too large and sharp stones are removed. Then another 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured on top, which is also compacted;

At the next stage, installation of waterproofing is carried out. The durability of the future coating depends on how well the waterproofing material is laid. Most often, polyethylene film is used as waterproofing, which covers the entire surface of the floor. It must be laid with an overlap of 15 centimeters, plus it must also extend onto the walls, at a level higher than the floor should be;
To create comfortable conditions for storing their “iron horse,” motorists also recommend insulating the base. To do this, various insulation materials are placed on polyethylene film: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, stone wool etc., 5 or 10 cm thick, after which they are covered with film;
installation of subfloor. In order for the floor to withstand heavy loads, reinforced mesh is used. It is recommended to use material with a rod diameter of 0.5 cm, a cell of 10 by 10 cm. The entire surface of the garage is covered with this mesh. Then, for the convenience of pouring the floor, it is necessary to place long wooden slats in increments of 1 m. Their height should correspond to the level of the future subfloor (about 10 cm). They will play the role of beacons. Then ready solution It is poured according to the level of the slats and, using the rule, its surface is leveled. After pouring, the wooden slats are dismantled, and the resulting voids are filled with mortar. Next, the screed is covered with film and dries for 3-4 weeks until it completely hardens.

Important!!! To level the floor surface correctly, you need to move from the farthest corner towards the exit.

installation of the finishing screed is carried out similarly to the rough screed, with the only difference being that its thickness is smaller - about 3-4 cm. To make the surface warmer, you can put a layer of insulation between the rough and finishing screed. And finishing the floor with paint will increase the practicality of the coating. Since in this case, aggressive chemicals will penetrate less into the floor. Polyurethane, acrylic or epoxy enamels are used as dyes. It is worth noting that the floor will have to be repainted several times a year, as the paint will wear off.

Advice!!! At the final stage, the main thing is not to forget to make a drain to drain the water, so that later you don’t have to deal with strong humidity in the room.

Video on how to make a concrete floor:

Caring for the environment

The most environmentally friendly among all floors is wood. Moreover, it can be used both in the garage at the dacha and in cities. Installing a garage with a wooden floor has the following advantages:

low level of financial costs;
simplicity and speed of installation;

Among the minuses, there is only one – it is fragility. The average lifespan of wood floors in garages is 5 years.

How to lay a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands?

The structure of a garage with wood looks like this:

first, a concrete base is laid out (similar to a rough concrete floor);
then you need to prepare the logs: treat with an antiseptic, dry;
Next, the subfloor is finished with a layer of hydro- and sound insulation, on which logs are laid in increments of 40 cm;
logs are also installed that will play the role of beacons. They are placed in 2 meter increments. Correct installation must be checked with a level. Then, using boards that are fixed in increments of 50 cm, a grid is formed;
after which all boards are tightly secured with nails or screws perpendicular to the joists.

We offer an example video on how to make a wooden floor in a garage:

Luxury garage

To improve the aesthetic appearance of the “house” for the car, the garage can be decorated using ceramic tiles. The advantages of this type of flooring are as follows:

no dust;
high water resistance;
ease and simplicity of cleaning;
reducing the influence of aggressive chemicals on the floor surface;
aesthetics.

Regarding the minuses, it is worth noting that finishing a garage with tiles is a rather expensive undertaking, both in terms of the price of materials and the cost of work. It is worth noting that garage floor tiles are only suitable for a class of at least 5, and they must meet all requirements regarding operation in low temperature conditions.

The floor in the garage is no less important part of the building than the walls. Whether the floor can withstand the load of the vehicle’s weight depends on the correct technological solution and proper installation. This article discusses ways to make a garage floor with your own hands.

Peculiarities

Garage floors have different requirements than subfloors in homes. Garage flooring is characterized by mechanical strength. Resistance of the coating to repeated mechanical impacts from heavy vehicles must be ensured by choosing the right material and special installation technique. Each contact of a large vehicle can cause mechanical damage. The garage often contains shelves with heavy items, creating additional stress on the floor.

Another important feature of garage flooring is resistance to fuels and lubricants. Flooring should not be susceptible to chemical contamination. As a rule, a car uses many different types of caustic and flammable materials - antifreeze, special oil, cleaners. The contact of these substances on the floor should not cause destruction of the coating.

The choice of flooring for a garage is significantly different from the material for cladding a living room.

The garage floor must have reliable fire protection. Options for using wood are acceptable subject to additional processing of the wood. The application of special mastic is necessary, since the floor often interacts with flammable materials. If it is not possible to purchase necessary funds, then preference should be given to another type of material.

It is important to remember that after treatment the surface should not have a strong chemical smell, because ventilation in the garage is difficult.

Moisture resistance- another one distinguishing characteristic floor in the garage. Cars cause constant contact of the coating with water and snow. The material must be protected from rotting under the influence of dampness. This is another reason why you should not stop choosing a wooden structure. Concrete floors can withstand increased moisture.

An unreinforced floor may rot and no longer withstand increased mechanical load.

Constant temperature changes should not have an impact Negative influence on the floor covering. The material must withstand critical freezing or heating. It is possible to install a water or electric heated floor in the garage, but such a solution is not always advisable. The power source for such a system must be connected to the central heating system of the house. Otherwise, you will need to draw up an independent project, which is not entirely rational for such a room.

On the market finishing materials for arranging the floor in the garage, you can select following materials:ceramic tiles, polymers, rubber tiles, wood panels, concrete. Each of the listed materials has a certain set of mechanical characteristics and installation features.

The choice of material should be made taking into account the characteristics of the room and its functional purpose.

Kinds

Wooden flooring in most cases they are used for cladding residential premises. However, if properly processed, this material can also be used in the construction of garage floors. The boards are environmentally friendly and have good thermal insulation. In addition, wooden floors have an aesthetic appearance and add aristocracy to the interior.

Painting or varnishing the boards will protect the coating from water and dampness.

The main disadvantage of wooden flooring is its inability to withstand prolonged critical loads. Such a floor quickly deforms under the weight of cars, and therefore requires frequent updating. The coating must be changed every five years. Installing such a floor is not recommended for those who are not willing to spend extra money and time on maintaining a garage. Wood supports combustion well, so if a fire occurs, the chance of saving the room is minimal.

It is important to know that the wooden covering is laid on a soil base. The laid surface must be additionally primed and painted. Before installation, each panel must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. These measures will increase the service life of the tree and protect it from harmful chemical influences.

Concrete floor has become widespread due to its reliability and long service life. This coating does not require frequent updating and is also easy to use. Cement mortar after hardening, it becomes insensitive to water, so it can be easily cleaned with direct streams of water. The coating can withstand critical loads without damage.

To install a concrete floor, you need to purchase cement, fine and coarse aggregate, as well as reinforcement to strengthen the coating. All components have a low cost, so owners with a small budget prefer to lay a concrete floor. Crushed stone is chosen as a coarse aggregate, and sand plays the role of a fine component. Reinforcement of the concrete screed is carried out metal mesh with a cross section of about ten millimeters.

The main disadvantage of the screed is that during operation it generates a lot of dust. To avoid constant cleaning of the room, craftsmen recommend covering the surface with paint. Cement floors are often used as a subsurface for subsequent installation of tiles or wood flooring. Laying ceramics requires additional marking and work.

Concrete floors do not conduct heat well, so the surface will always be cold. This can be fixed by installing a heating cable.

Ceramic tile It has a high cost and requires a lot of time and labor for installation. When installing the floor in an unheated room, porcelain stoneware should be used. Such tiles are frost-resistant and can withstand cooling to a critical temperature. The fragments are fixed using special construction glue. The porcelain tile floor must be laid as a level surface without any difference in height.

Latest solution for installing a covering in a garage - self-leveling epoxy floor. This type of base differs from its analogues in increased wear resistance. The floor is resistant to chemicals, so it will maintain an ideal surface throughout its entire service life. The coating does not require special care and does not create excess dust during operation. Resin flooring is different high quality, strength and reliability.

Decorative elements can be added to the liquid composition, creating an unusual pattern on the floor surface. Color pigments will not reduce the quality of the material. The surface does not fade under direct sunlight, maintaining its original color throughout its entire service life. If installed properly, this coating will look like liquid glass.

Epoxy floors are airtight, so they are recommended to be placed in conditions of high humidity. Polymers are resistant to sudden temperature changes.

A significant disadvantage of epoxy coating is its high price. A self-leveling floor requires a concreted sub-base. The cost is due to the environmentally friendly composition. The floors do not emit harmful chemicals, which is a guarantee of safety for the health of residents. The service life of such a floor with minimal time and effort spent on cleaning can reach 50 years.

Modular PVC tile floors are characterized by safety and long service life. This flooring consists of several layers. A layer of fiberglass is laid on a solid base to maintain the rigidity of the product. Next comes the color layer. Depending on the cost of the slab, the pattern on the surface can be anything. So, some owners order PVC with interesting 3D effects. The final layer is protective.

Craftsmen advise purchasing polyvinyl chloride slabs. This floor has high technical characteristics and does not require special skills for installation. Installing tiles is not much different from laying ceramic mosaics. A damaged fragment can be easily dismantled and replaced without the need to remove the entire layer.

Thanks to a wide range of sizes, modular tiles will fit well in small spaces.

Feature of PVC tiles - the presence of special protrusions on the edges of the parts. Due to these protrusions, the panels adhere to each other. The coating does not require the use of construction adhesive for fixation. The puzzle pieces are securely fixed to each other. The seams of this floor are practically invisible.

A good alternative to polymer flooring - corrugated steel panel decking. The surface is able to withstand long-term loads from large vehicles without deforming under the weight of the load. The metal floor does not create excess dust, so it is easy to clean. Thanks to the ribbed coating, maximum surface roughness is achieved. The metal can withstand impacts from heavy objects without cracking or deforming.

Steel floor has significant value. Increased impact resistance allows you to achieve maximum service life of the coating. Such “heavy-duty” floors are more wear-resistant than their polymer counterparts. Laying a corrugated floor does not require special skills, but it is impossible to freely cut the puzzle pieces.

It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the floor in advance and order tiles taking into account the dimensions of the room.

Garage flooring made of asphalt crumbs Provides good tire grip on the surface. Crushed stone or brick chips are used both for cladding the surface around the building and for laying the floor inside. It is important to understand that asphalt can only be laid correctly using a roller. The base is first filled with crushed stone, which must be compressed. The use of construction equipment will allow you to get a smooth and reliable floor in the garage.

The main advantage of such a coating is its resistance to chemical influences. Asphalt can withstand sudden temperature changes. It is important to understand that such a coating cannot be laid in cold period of the year. Otherwise, the coating will crack under the influence of temperature fluctuations. The cost of this coating is small, but it is better to entrust the installation to road construction specialists. This coating will reliably last for many years.

Surface preparation

As a rough covering, the easiest to install and most affordable is a concrete floor. Primer of cement-sand screed is easy to do with your own hands. Concrete material can be used as the main floor if there is a need to save money. The rough coating can be obtained in several ways. Among them are laying a reinforced concrete slab and pouring a cement screed.

The first method of organizing the foundation requires special construction equipment. Lay it yourself concrete slab impossible - its weight will not allow the work to be completed without the help of a team of specialists. Laying the slab will require high material costs, but will save time.

Pouring a concrete screed is quite cheap, but labor-intensive. To properly lay and process the surface, you need to spend a lot of time.

The screed cannot be poured on sloping areas. A slope in laying the cement surface is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use a reinforced concrete slab as a rough surface. If you want to install a heated floor in the garage, then a screed is a must. A wooden structure on joists is suitable for laying floors in a bathhouse or residential premises, but will collapse under the influence of loads from a car.

Before direct pouring, it is necessary to remove the top soil layer from the surface. Next, the surface is coated with clay and covered with a layer of aggregate - crushed stone, sand and gravel. Afterwards, a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene with a thickness of no more than 200 microns is laid. Roofing material is also suitable for these purposes. The film is overlapped, its edges are secured with construction tape. At the junction of walls and floors, the edges of the film must be raised.

Mounted on top of waterproofing reinforcement mesh.Reinforcement will help provide the necessary strength and rigidity of the future surface. Next, you can begin pouring the concrete screed. During the laying process, the surface must be leveled with special spatulas - this will facilitate grinding after the cement has dried.

Floors must be left for at least 4 weeks to completely cure. The laid surface is covered with a protective film and periodically wetted during the drying process.

The concrete base must be thoroughly cleaned after drying. The main disadvantage of concrete is its weak top layer. A clean coating quickly wears out and becomes unusable. The screed absorbs oils and other chemicals well, which negatively affects the coating. Therefore, craftsmen recommend not completing the installation of the garage floor at the stage of pouring the screed. It is better to lay tiles or metal covering on the resulting base. This way the concrete will be protected and last much longer.

Installation

To make a wooden floor with your own hands, you must first treat the boards with a special protective agent and leave for several days. The humidity of the wood flooring before laying should match the air humidity in the room. To achieve this result, wooden panels must be laid out around the perimeter of the room. If the beams lie on top of each other, then the wood may not receive the required moisture. This may cause the floor to warp after installation. To eliminate the defects, repairs will be required with a complete replacement of the damaged board.

You can lay the wood on a pre-cleaned, primed concrete screed. The log beams are installed on the screed in increments of 100-200 cm. In order for the boards to hold, they must be fixed with dowels every half meter. The pitch of intermediate logs is 400 millimeters. Wooden base it is necessary to cover it with a layer of waterproofing.

A small gap must be left between the protective film and the wall to ensure floor ventilation.

You need to lay boards on top of the insulation - the finishing coating for a wooden floor. The panels are nailed perpendicular to the joists to properly distribute the load on the structure. In order for the coating to withstand heavy loads, the boards must be at least 4 centimeters thick. Antiseptics and paint are applied to the finished surface. These techniques help preserve the coating from the effects of chemicals.

Ceramic tiles are also laid on a rough concrete base. The wear resistance class of the ceramic material should be about 5. Before laying the tiles, the screed is primed twice and cleaned of dust. Construction adhesive for fixing the mosaic is prepared in advance and left for some time.

This procedure is necessary to increase the adhesive properties of the material. The glue is applied both to the ceramic fragment and to the concrete surface.

The width of the gap at the joints of the tiles should be the same throughout the entire masonry. The joint is adjusted using a plastic cross-shaped spacer. Surface flatness is checked laser level. It is important to ensure that the adhesive does not get on the front surface of the ceramic. Contaminants must be removed on site: the surface is difficult to clean from hardened glue. For the tiles to dry completely, it is enough to wait about 3 days.

The joints must be treated with a special grout. The product contains cement. Due to the binder's immunity to water, the seams are reliably protected from the influence of moisture. The mixture must be applied using a silicone spatula, excess material must be removed. The time for complete drying of the solution in domestic conditions reaches 30 minutes. Afterwards, the tiles must be sanded with a wet sponge and the coating must be left for another two weeks.

The concrete screed plays the role of a rough covering for the installation of a self-leveling floor. In order to properly finish the perimeter with an epoxy mixture, it is necessary to achieve a perfectly flat surface of the screed. Any cracks or imperfections must be repaired as the polyurethane mixture is translucent. Mixing the mortar for filling the floor is carried out in a room with a temperature of no lower than 10 and no more than 25 degrees.

Filling is performed in several approaches. If desired, coloring pigments are added to the composition. To eliminate air bubbles, pass over the surface with a needle roller. The procedure for laying such a coating is simple and does not require specialist supervision. The poured floor needs at least three weeks to dry completely.

Waterproofing

Concrete base may leak groundwater. During use, wet spots will begin to appear on the floor without a protective layer. It is impossible to remove them from the surface. To prevent the coating from getting wet, it will be necessary to remove the finishing layer and install waterproofing. Floors should also be protected from external moisture. For example, when snow melts from the surface of tires or when washing a car.

The first stage in installing waterproofing is pouring a gravel cushion. Small rounded particles act as drainage and therefore remove water from the surface. Moisture does not stagnate and does not cause the floor to rot. The thickness of the pillow should reach 100 millimeters. After laying the surface, it is necessary to repeatedly walk with a roller to compact the layer.

Next, the gravel is covered with sand. This is necessary to ensure that excess moisture does not accumulate on the concrete base of the foundation. Sand is able to absorb moisture and prevent corrosion of concrete. The layer of sand backfill should reach one centimeter and be well compacted. Before directly laying a concrete slab or pouring a screed, it is necessary to lay polyethylene.

Waterproofing material is also laid after pouring concrete and laying reinforcement. Polyethylene helps reduce water evaporation from the concrete mass. This technique helps to increase the service life of the base. The reinforced concrete pad with a layer of insulation must dry for several weeks. The subfloor can be laid only after the base has completely dried.

The screed slope should vary between 1.5 and 2 percent. The ramp is directed towards the garage door. Thanks to this design, excess water will spontaneously drain from the surface of the garage floor.

Among waterproofing materials To protect the garage flooring, roofing felt is used, protective films and membranes. The coating is fixed using hot mastic. The adhesive gives additional protection from exposure to water. The walls can also be coated with a protective mixture to a height of up to 20 centimeters from the floor level. Liquid rubber can only be applied to surfaces without visible defects.

Polymer film It has a fairly low price, and you can fasten it together with simple tape. For regions with predominantly low temperatures, craftsmen advise installing penetrating insulation. It is important to remember that waterproofing layers can be raised to a height of 15 centimeters to the wall.

Heating

Insulation should be selected based on regulatory documents. The recommended air temperature in the garage should reach +5 degrees. As the temperature rises, air condensation in the room increases. High humidity may have a negative impact on the safety of the vehicle.

You can insulate a wooden floor with boards 5 centimeters thick. The step between the base logs should not exceed 50 centimeters. Otherwise, the floor will deform under the load from the car. A concrete floor without joists can be insulated with a simple wooden flooring. Larch panels are suitable for constructing such a base. Wood has the ability to retain heat, so such flooring will significantly increase the temperature in the room.

The thickness of the concrete screed above the insulation should be about 100 millimeters. The insulating material under the screed must be resistant to deformation. The foundation soil and garage foundation are always subject to requirements for additional reinforcement.

Hygroscopic samples are produced among insulation materials. Such coatings protect on both sides from moisture penetration. However, even such a coating requires waterproofing.

On the modern building materials market you can purchase the following insulation materials:

Expanded clay. This material is low cost. Its installation requires preliminary excavation of a pit, because the thickness of such insulation can reach 45 centimeters. Expanded clay is a loose mixture, so it will need to be leveled during installation. Beacons are used for these purposes.
Styrofoam. This type of insulation is laid on a concrete slab and serves as a good basis for pouring screed. The density of such material should be no lower than c-25, and it is better to take the thickness of the slab about 10 centimeters. It is not recommended to leave gaps between insulation panels.
Foam under the plank base significantly different from the analogue for concrete screed. The density of such sheets can be any. The dimensions of the plate can be 50x500x1000 millimeters. Experts recommend purchasing additional vapor barrier material to protect the tree from excess moisture.

The choice of material largely depends on the financial capabilities of the owners. Craftsmen recommend installing a concrete base for all types of finishing coatings. Concrete is a good base and better withstands critical mechanical loads. A slab or screed will serve as a good floor even without final finishing. There is no cheaper or more reliable option today.

However, it is better to additionally coat the screed with paint so that it retains its smoothness for a long time.

A durable base is guaranteed by the porcelain stoneware coating. It is important to remember that compliance with installation technology requires the intervention of qualified specialists with construction equipment. This option is suitable for those who are willing to spend a sufficient amount on installing a floor in the garage. Porcelain tile coating looks aesthetically pleasing; craftsmen recognize it as the most durable. The cost of laying the material pays off over a long service life.

When choosing tiles for masonry, preference should be given to polymers. Ceramic mosaic with a complex pattern is inappropriate in this room. The cost of such tiles is many times higher than their rubber and plastic counterparts. Preference should be given to rubber fragments, which are no less easy to install and operate. Polymers do not require special treatment of seams. The joints of some coatings are invisible, which creates the illusion of a monolithic coating.

A warm water or electric floor will not be the best solution for a garage. You should choose materials that are easy to use and relatively cheap. It is important to understand what characteristics the future coating should have and how often it will be replaced. A wooden floor is suitable for lovers of environmentally friendly products, but you need to be prepared to change the panels after 5 years of use. Stone-like tiles look expensive, but are not appropriate. It is important to choose a coating with sufficient roughness.

Beautiful examples

Before making a choice, you can get acquainted with the preferences of other people. This will help avoid mistakes or help create an interesting floor option.

Polymer fragments with fine relief create the effect of a repeating pattern. This option is perfect for installing a floor in a small garage. The dark rubber coating goes well with the light wall covering. The neat seams of the tiles are coated with a dark compound that does not stand out against the general background of the floor. An important feature is that the tiles are laid seam-to-seam without shifts, so there is no visual curvature of the space.

Another option for using rubber panels is to alternate colors in a checkerboard pattern. The combination of red with white or black looks bright, but at the same time minimalistic. This solution is perfect for owners of large garages. Wide colored fragments add zest to the room.

For such a floor it is necessary to use wall cladding in neutral shades. Light paint or plaster will be an excellent addition to a bright base. The room is filled with air and light, which is uncharacteristic of the typical idea of garage decoration. The seamless connection of the tiles creates an interesting flowing effect.

Stone fragments with white seams look massive and elegant at the same time. Clarity and accuracy of execution is distinctive feature of this room. Pleasant brown color goes well with light walls. Ceramic masonry duplicates the wall covering.

Ceramics on the walls not only serve as a visual continuation of the floor, creating the illusion of depth. Tiles protect light walls from pollution. The surface is easy to clean and does not require extra effort. Wooden shelves and the cabinets match the color of the floor. The image turns out to be curtained, without unnecessary clutter.

The floor paved with concrete mosaic looks unusual. Mixing masonry creates a play of shapes. This technique enlivens a gray room and adds some elegance to it. The alternation of ordered masonry with a chaotic arrangement of fragments does not create dissonance. This is achieved by using material of the same color.

Such a floor will withstand even the most critical load, because it is close to the structure of the streets. The paving will be combined with rough wall cladding. It is important to understand that such a floor will always be cold, since stone does not conduct heat well. This garage is great for storing your car, but it will be difficult to work in in cold weather.

Plank flooring is suitable for those who appreciate texture natural material. The panels create an ideal covering. The room is pleasant to work in because it is filled with light. Such a garage is more suitable for setting up a workshop. The boards are coated with varnish, which not only protects the surface, but also gives it a beautiful shine.

A budget wooden floor retains the natural smell of wood. As you can see, the connection of wood panels is almost seamless. The boards are laid parallel to each other. The geometry of the room is not disturbed and due to this arrangement of logs it is visually lengthened. This option is perfect for a small garage.

Distinctive feature This interior is a richly colored epoxy floor. Due to the installation technology and coating features, the floor acquires a glass shine and solidity.

For some car owners, the garage is the place where they spend a very significant part of their free time. And therefore it is quite logical that there is a desire to somewhat ennoble it. You need to start from the floor. Why? Yes, because you walk on it, drive a car, lie under a car, put things and tools. In this article, we will dwell in detail on how to make a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands - quickly, efficiently and inexpensively for the family budget.
Why are we going to make wooden flooring? But because this is the best option: wood is relatively inexpensive, easy to work with and install. And since this is a room where cars, gasoline and chemicals are stored, the covered floors must be resistant to these factors. To ensure that the wooden floor in your garage serves you for a long time, carefully read the tips below.

Preparation

First, you need to prepare the garage itself: take out everything unnecessary, throw out all the garbage. The room should be covered with plastic film. The purchase of wooden coverings must also be taken very seriously. The wood should not be too dry or, conversely, too wet. This will affect how and how long it will serve you. When choosing boards to install a garage floor with your own hands, be sure to ensure that the boards do not have (or at least have fewer) various defects - blue discoloration, knots, cracks, rot, etc. Boards must be at least 3 cm thick, but it will be better if you take them with a reserve. If the boards are of decent thickness, then there should be a minimum distance between the logs. If you have the opportunity and the means, then it is better to immediately take the material prepared for installation - the so-called tongue and groove boards:

Thanks to special joining elements—protrusions and grooves along the length of the board—you won’t have to deal with cracks during installation and installation. This wooden floor will be easy to process and paint! If you have a standard garage, you will need 6-meter boards.
In order for the flooring to last for a long time, it must be placed on brick or concrete pillars, or on a concrete base. By the way, the last option is the most convenient and fastest - you don’t have to do much leveling. If in the future there is a desire to replace the boards with tiles, then this will not be difficult either!
The last option is most suitable for making a coating with your own hands, since when replacing it you can use boards or tiles.

Laying a wooden floor on concrete

In order to make a garage floor with your own hands, you will also need so-called “logs”.

It is best to use timber with a cross section of 10×10 cm.
I would strongly advise that before installation, be sure to treat the wood with an antiseptic or fire retardant. This will protect it from instant fire and rotting in the future.
Impregnate the boards outdoors using a brush or roller. After impregnation, they also need to be dried.

Tongue-and-groove garage floor

If you have a concrete base, you will first need to lay waterproofing.

To do this, you can spread regular roofing felt in overlapping strips. In this case, the distance between the logs should be 0.4-0.5 m.

If this is not done, the floors will be deformed under the wheels of the car due to its heavy weight.
The first logs are made at opposite walls at the same distance. Then a thread is stretched between them and intermediate logs will be mounted along it. To ensure the surface is smooth and without distortions, be sure to use a building level. If you are faced with the fact that the base itself is crooked, then you will have to place wooden wedges under the logs.
The logs placed according to the level must be firmly attached to concrete base using long dowels.
Then you can start laying the floorboard. They should all be the same thickness - thanks to this, the load will be distributed more or less evenly.
Lay the floorboards tightly and end to end, avoiding gaps.
To ensure that the boards fit together tightly during installation, use spacers. Wedges are perfect for this purpose. The slats are attached to the joists using nails or self-tapping screws.

DIY garage floor made of chipboard or plywood

To make garage floors yourself from sheets of plywood or chipboard, you will still have to first pour a leveling concrete layer. The thicker it is, the longer your coating will last. If a small layer of concrete is expected, then the base should be reinforced with a metal mesh with a rod diameter of at least 1 cm.
To create a long-lasting wooden garage floor, you should buy the thickest plywood, not just plain plywood, but one that does not allow moisture to pass through.
Chipboards are not recommended for use due to the fact that they do not tolerate temperature changes and therefore quickly collapse.
After laying the plywood is completed, cover the joints between the garage walls and the covering with a regular baseboard. It is recommended to first treat the floor with drying oil and then paint it.
If this is not done, then later, when operating the car, it will be difficult for you to remove oil and gasoline from the surface of the garage floor.

Laying the floor on the ground

Another option that owners of metal garages usually resort to is laying a wooden floor in the garage on the ground.

To do this, you also need to carry out preparation - remove the fertile layer of soil from the inside of the foundation and replace it with a sand-gravel mixture and clay. Compact the mound well. The edges of the wood beams will rest on the sides of the foundation. Brick columns will need to be made as supports between the beams. To do this, dig holes 40x40 cm deep enough to coincide with the recess of the main foundation.
The first row of supports from the wall is usually done in increments of 50 cm, and subsequent rows at a distance of 100 cm. There should be at least 55 cm between the beams.
A layer of coarse gravel about 20 cm should be poured into each of the holes. Then concrete with a fine fraction should be poured into it to ground level.
After the concrete has hardened, we lay out the brick columns in 3 rows. Make sure they are the same height.
Between the brick and concrete, on top of the supports, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing roofing felt layer. To prevent the floor covering in the garage from causing damage in the future, the open area of clay must also be covered with waterproofing made from roofing felt.

For beams, you need to take a beam 20 cm thick. To increase rigidity, you can put it on the edge.
The logs must be made perpendicular to the entrance so that there is a gap of 3 cm between them and the wall. The wooden flooring is laid along the direction of movement of the car. Then they must be securely fastened. The beams are placed on posts so that a little space is left under them for air circulation.

Insulating the floor in the garage

In order to make it comfortable to work in the garage even in the cold season, it would not be superfluous to immediately insulate the future floor. It is not difficult and inexpensive.
First, the subfloor is placed on the beams. Next comes waterproofing made of polyethylene film, on top of which insulation is placed.
For insulation it is better to take sheet, roll or backfill material. Extruded polystyrene foam is considered the most effective.

It will also need to be covered with waterproofing and sheathed along the joists with a floorboard.
After covering the floor in the garage is completed, it will be necessary to clean it from construction dust and dirt. It might even be better to go over it with detergent.
Good luck!!!