How to properly make a blind area around the house?
Upon completion of construction activities for the construction of a building, a feeling is created that the structure is completely ready. The desire to do internal improvements and move in quickly makes the developer miss some nuances. One of these moments is a blind area around the house, which significantly extends the life of the structure and protects the base of the building from moisture.
There is a misconception that the blind area of a private house is not necessary element buildings. However, you should not put off its construction until “tomorrow.” After all, the load-bearing capacity of an unprotected foundation, which is deformed as a result of intense moisture absorption, gradually decreases.
The blind area of the house is one of important aspects in creating long and comfortable operation of the house itself
Used in construction various options edging performed around the perimeter of the building. To ensure a long service life of the structure, reliable protection foundation, it is important, following the technology, to correctly make a blind area around the house. Let us dwell in detail on its purpose, parameters and varieties. We will select the materials and tools necessary to complete the work. Let's look in detail at how, according to construction technology, a blind area is made around the foundation of a building.
Why is it necessary to make a blind area?
The blind area of a private house represents structural element around the building, made with a slope along the perimeter of the foundation. It performs serious functions, the main of which are:
- reliable protection of the building foundation from the effects of precipitation;
- drainage of water along the perimeter of the foundation of the building into the storm drain;
- reducing the depth of soil freezing around the building, which reduces heat losses;
- preventing soil swelling at subzero temperatures;
- preventing damage to the foundation surface by plant roots;
- providing a finished look to the building by creating a transition between the plinth and the ground.
Having completed the construction work, it is necessary to complete the edging along the contour of the building before the onset of cold weather, so that the moisture-saturated layer of soil does not damage the integrity of the base when frozen.
After intense rain or snowfall, or melting snow, water may accumulate near the building
Design parameters
- The width of the edging is more than 60 cm. To ensure ease of movement, it is necessary to expand the path to 100 cm.
- Exceeding the width above the contour of the roof by more than 20 cm. This contributes to the ingress of precipitation onto the surface.
- A closed path configuration that completely encircles the building. The perimeter foundation must be protected.
- The slope of the surface towards the soil is in the range of 1–10%, which corresponds to a slope of 1 to 10 cm per meter of width. At an increased angle, there is a high probability of slipping during glaciation.
- Surface layer thickness concrete pouring around the building, amounting to 7–10 cm. The parameter depends on the depth of soil freezing, increases to 14 cm with increased loads.
- Construction of a border that makes it difficult to damage the base by the root system of plants.
- The elevation of the edging above the zero mark is 50 mm. This makes it difficult for precipitation to flood along the outer edge.
Compliance with the requirements of regulatory documents will ensure comfortable operating conditions and durability of the structure.
When creating a drain, creating a blind area is mandatory
Blind area around the house - necessary materials and coatings
A blind area is made around the building using various materials:
- concrete paving stones. Specialized stores offer material different colors, original configuration. The presence of curves significantly reduces the likelihood of edges chipping. The dimensions of the paving stones allow them to bear the loads associated with movement. Edging elements improve aesthetic perception. The material is resistant to deep freezing, temperature changes and allows you to quickly complete masonry by filling the gaps between the elements with sand;
- natural stone. Stone paving stones are made from natural granite in various shades. The material is supplied in the form of chipped or sawn blanks. Products are offered in standard cubic or parallelepiped shapes. Laying is carried out similarly to paving stones cast from concrete, on a pre-prepared base up to 50 mm thick made of fine gravel or sand. After sealing the seams, the formed stone mass is compacted;
- concrete. The use of concrete mortar is inexpensive solution providing waterproofness and high strength. For pouring, the soil is prepared and wooden formwork is installed for concreting. Expansion joints are also made along the contour of the building. A concrete surface decorated with multi-colored pebbles 1–5 cm in size is well perceived;
To create a strong, durable blind area, you will need to correctly select high-quality materials and strictly adhere to the technological aspects of construction
- paving slabs. The ease of use of the plates lies in the ability to easily replace damaged elements. Square-shaped tiles with a side of up to 0.5 m and rectangular products up to 1 m in length are produced. Along with the standard gray color of the products, you can purchase multi-colored material with a smooth or decorative texture. If the size of the edging is a multiple of the width of the slabs, trimming can be avoided and the work can be completed quickly;
- crushed stone An easy-to-manufacture option, used when groundwater is close to the groundwater and is installed around the structure of the drainage system. Along with crushed stone, expanded clay and ordinary gravel are used. For ease of movement, the layer of material should be carefully compacted with the preliminary installation of geotextiles. It makes it difficult for weeds to grow and protects the material from mixing with the soil.
Concreting is widely used. To perform the work, prepare tools and necessary materials:
- A shovel, wheelbarrow and buckets necessary when removing a layer of soil and transporting materials.
- Device for manual tamper, which allows you to compact the array.
- Building level for horizontal control.
- Materials for waterproofing protection.
- Wood for making formwork.
- Steel reinforcement or ready-made mesh with a square cell of 10 cm side.
- Sifted sand.
The blind area should be formed with a slope. This will allow water to flow away from the walls of the building.
- Medium sized crushed stone.
- Portland cement grade M300.
- Clay.
- Extruded polystyrene foam for insulation.
- Construction cord and pegs for marking.
Blind area of a private house - features and types of structures
Regardless of the type of structure and manufacturing technology, the blind area is a path around the perimeter of the building. Consists of the following layers:
- underlying The base is fine gravel, clay or sand. The damping layer forms a compacted base for outer covering;
- finishing It is a finishing coating that protects the foundation from moisture penetration. Provides aesthetic perception.
There are various options for making a blind area around the house. Blind surfaces are divided into the following groups:
- Tough. They are formed by pouring a reinforced concrete mass or paving a previously prepared reinforced surface. This is the only design option that allows for insulation. They are distinguished by a long period of operation, equal to the period of use of the building. Disadvantages include the complexity of arrangement, increased level costs, the use of tar for asphalt paving, the need for finishing to ensure a decorative effect.
Backfilling of crushed stone. Layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm
- Semi-rigid. They are a multi-layer cushion based on crushed stone and sand bedding. For finishing, they are installed on a compacted surface. different kinds tiles, cobblestones, paving stones or porcelain stoneware. The design features do not allow for insulation and the installation of semi-rigid foundations on heaving soils. Reduced costs and ease of installation are associated with the absence of the need to pour concrete. Simplified construction technology and reduced material consumption bring the semi-rigid base to a leading position.
- Soft. The base layer between the soil and the outer material is formed by a cushion consisting of several compacted layers. The outer layer is made of a layer of gravel or small crushed stone, the use of which can significantly reduce the level of costs and time required to complete the work. Despite the limited service life, the device of soft protection around the building is widely used when there is a lack of finance.
How to make a blind area around the house - stages of work
Greetings, friends.
Alexander Alexandrov is in touch with you.
Today I will tell you how make the right blind area with your own hands.
When building a private house, various nuances should be taken into account. This includes preventing flooding of the foundation by rainwater. Constant flow of water under the foundation can lead to very undesirable consequences. The action of atmospheric moisture on foundation concrete leads to cracks and other damage. Plant roots begin to grow into these cracks and have a destructive effect on the foundation.Sometimes, when constructing a building, builders for some reason forget that such a problem exists, and the owner of the house has to solve it himself. Some owners do not realize the need to protect the foundation of the building, and this significantly reduces the service life of the home.
To prevent water from flowing under the foundation, a blind area is made - a special strengthening of the perimeter of the building. If you have experience in construction work, you can do this element of the house structure yourself, thereby saving on the services of specialists.
So, how to make a blind area yourself?
Why is a blind area necessary?
The blind area is designed to perform the following important functions:
- protecting the foundation of the building from destructive factors such as moisture, plant roots, and so on;
- drainage of rain or melt water from the walls of the house into the drainage system, for which the blind area is equipped - this design reduces the risk of the foundation becoming damp;
- increasing the aesthetics of the appearance of the house, giving it harmony and completeness;
- reduction of heat losses in the cold season.
How the blind area is arranged
The basis of the blind area is the underlying layer, on top of which a covering layer is applied. Often different materials are used to create them. To ensure drainage from the walls of the building, the surface of the blind area should have a slight slope.
The capping layer is often made of concrete.
In this case, the surface of the base layer must be horizontal, while the slope of the surface of the covering layer is created when the concrete is poured. The standard slope is five centimeters per meter.
The underlying layer is most often made of clay, crushed stone or gravel. Most practical material is crumpled clay due to the fact that it does not allow water to pass through well. Typically the underlying layer is made from 0.25 to 0.3 meters thick. When using clay, a sufficient thickness for the underlying layer will be from 0.15 to 0.2 meters.
If crushed stone or gravel is used to create the underlying layer, then between it and the covering layer there should be a layer of sand with a thickness of 0.07 to 0.1 meters.
The covering layer is made of durable and waterproof material - natural stone, asphalt, concrete. In some cases, brick or sidewalk tiles are used for this.
Preparing for work
The first step in preparation is to establish the main parameters of the future design. The standard minimum width of the blind area is 0.6 meters. However, when designing it, it is necessary to take into account the following factors, including those related to the features of the architecture and design of the building:
- The position of the edge of the eaves of the roof of the house: the edge of the blind area should protrude beyond this edge by at least 0.25-0.3 meters. This will prevent water from flowing from the roof onto the ground if there is no drainage or problems with it.
- Compatibility of the blind area with overall design buildings and the surrounding landscape.
- Features of the soil around the building. So, if the house is surrounded by subsidence soil, then the minimum recommended width of the blind area is one meter. This size makes it convenient to use the blind area as a path.
- Features of the climate of the area in which the house is located.
- Materials that are supposed to be used for the construction of the blind area. So, if you make a covering layer of paving slabs, then the slope can be made smaller than if you use crushed stone.
After establishing the width of the blind area that is acceptable in a given situation, it is necessary to determine the angle of its inclination. To ensure effective drainage, the value of this angle should lie between two and five degrees.
The slope of the blind area can be created both during the process of laying the underlying layer and during the installation of the outer covering. The choice of one approach or another is determined by the materials used.
Materials and tools
The next step in preparing the construction of the blind area is to calculate the required volume of materials and select the right tools. To lay the bottom layer you need crushed stone, sand or clay.
The most common capping material is concrete. If it is intended to be used in the construction of the blind area, then the following tools and additional materials will be needed:
- concrete mixer or trough for mixing cement mortar;
- wire;
- reinforcing bars;
- bayonet shovels for digging soil and shovels for working with mortar;
- ruler or tape measure;
- level.
DIY blind area
- Marking
The first step in building a blind area is marking the area in front of the building. To do this, you need to drive pegs into the ground around the perimeter of the building at the required distance from the wall and connect them with twine.
2. Digging a trench for a blind area
After this operation, you need to dig a trench between the stretched twine and the wall of the house, the depth of which will be determined by the selected material. As a rule, the thickness of a concrete blind area is 0.25 meters. In this case, the thickness of the surface finish is not taken into account.
After the trench for the blind area is ready, it is necessary to prevent unwanted growth of plants in it, the roots of which could have a destructive effect on the structure in the future. To do this, the soil in the trench and near it is treated with special herbicides. If trees grow not far from the future blind area, their roots should be cut off.
You can also lay geotextiles, but this is more expensive.
Digging a trench is not always a necessary procedure. If the soil around the house is soft enough, then it will be enough to compact it to the appropriate depth.
3. Installation of formwork
The next step is to assemble the formwork. For this, you can use uncut boards with a thickness of at least 20 millimeters. The boards are installed along the outer border of the pit. Wooden blocks can be used as supports.
4. Creating an underlying layer
After installing the formwork, it is necessary to compact the bottom of the trench and fill it with clay so that the layer thickness is 50 millimeters. The clay must be compacted tightly, and then a sand layer 100 millimeters thick must be poured onto it, which should also be compacted. To ensure good compaction of the sand layer, the sand should be moistened. The final step of this stage of work is laying crushed stone on top of the sand layer.
Compacting the soil at the bottom of the pit is a necessary step in the construction of the blind area. If this is not done, then the blind area may sag in the future under its own weight. In order to completely eliminate water seepage through the blind area, the clay layer can be separated from subsequent layers with a waterproofing material, for example, a film of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene.
5. Installation of reinforcing mesh
After the preparation of the cushion is completed, reinforcement is laid on the surface of the crushed stone layer to form a reinforcing mesh. In this case, the distance between the rods should be from 100 to 150 millimeters. The intersections of the rods must be tied with steel wire. The presence of a reinforcing mesh ensures the strength of the blind area and its ability to withstand various loads.
Instead of reinforcing bars, you can use ready-made reinforcing mesh.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW
An important nuance when reinforcing is to ensure complete envelopment of the reinforcement with cement mortar. To do this, you can lay the mesh on wooden blocks, which are gradually removed during the concreting process.
6. Creation expansion joint
Where the blind area comes into contact with the wall of the building, an expansion joint must be created, the width of which should be approximately 15 millimeters. To fill the joint space, sand mixed with gravel or bitumen is used.
To create a heat-insulating layer between the blind area and the wall of the house, you can also use slabs of extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. It is important to ensure a tight fit of the insulation boards to each other.
7. Pouring concrete
The next stage of work is pouring the concrete solution. To do this, you must first lay wooden slats across the trench so that the distance between them is 2.3-2.5 meters. The purpose of these slats is to create expansion joints, providing normal performance characteristics designs. The width of the slats should be such that their edges coincide with the surface level of the concrete layer. To prevent the destruction of the slats by bacteria and fungus, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic solution and covered with a layer of bitumen.
Standard concrete mortar is prepared from cement (one part), sand (two parts) and small crushed stone (three parts). It is advisable to use river or sea sand. If you use regular sand from a quarry, you must first wash it to remove various impurities.
Sand is washed twice or three times. You can use a concrete mixer for this. When washing, sand is poured into a concrete mixer, filled with water and mixed for several minutes. After this, the concrete mixer is turned off and the water is drained. If this procedure is neglected, then in the future it is possible that the blind area will be washed away by water.
Concrete is poured in one layer at once. Otherwise, cracks may appear in the future between areas filled at different times. Therefore, even if it is impossible to pour all the concrete within one day for some reason, then the next day the work should be completely completed.
To prevent the formation of cracks and defects in the future, it is important to ensure high quality cement mortar. Therefore, it is best to prepare it in a concrete mixer.
If hot weather occurs during the construction of the formwork, then best time for work – early morning or evening.
8. Leveling the concrete surface
After the concrete layer has been poured and has not yet hardened, its surface must be leveled and the required slope created. A rule is applied to perform this procedure. If you don’t have this tool, you can use a regular wooden strip with a smooth and even surface. To ensure evenness, smoothness and correct slope of the surface, special beacons should be used as guides.
Upon completion of the creation of the covering layer, the surface of the concrete must be covered with burlap moistened with water. This fabric must be moistened regularly to prevent it from drying out. This will ensure that cracks do not appear in the concrete as it gradually hardens.
9. Finishing and decorative works
The concrete curing process lasts two to three weeks. After this time period has passed and the concrete has acquired the necessary strength, you can remove the formwork and begin finishing and decorating its surface. For this you can use sheets of porcelain stoneware, or anything else.
Do-it-yourself blind area at home - video
Well, that's all, friends.
By following these step-by-step instructions, you can easily make a blind area with your own hands and spend only on building materials.
Do-it-yourself blind area at home: step-by-step instruction, videos, and expert advice presented in this article on the site will help you do this work yourself. The most reliable way to protect the foundation of a house is blind area: step-by-step instruction for the construction of this structure is so simple that you can easily do without the help of qualified specialists. By following simple and understandable recommendations, you can build capital protection for the foundation own home With minimal costs and thereby prevent damage to the base surface waters.
Blind area around the house you can do it yourself, even without much experience in construction
Do-it-yourself blind area of the house: step-by-step instructions for the initial stage of construction
At the initial stage of construction, you should decide on the choice of blind area and the main parameters responsible for the quality and reliability of the structure. Private houses and cottages are not immune from erosion of the foundation by surface water, so it is recommended to use additional protective measures to strengthen the foundation of the building.
Not only protects the foundation of the building, but can also serve as paths
Note! Construction around the house concrete blind area, which has a complete coating, provides an almost 100% guarantee of protection against moisture. No other material has such capabilities. Otherwise, for the sake of additional reinforcement, you will have to equip a multi-tiered “pie” structure, which in itself is difficult and will entail significant costs.
The foundation of the building is influenced by various natural factors:
- low temperatures;
- excess moisture;
- damage mechanical properties due to swelling of the soil.
The stability of the entire building depends on the condition in which the foundation part of the cottage is located, so the protection must be thorough and reliable. This function is the main one for the blind area, the protective properties of which also extend to the basement of the house.
Scheme of a blind area around a house with a top layer of crushed stone
Photo of the blind area around the house and its purpose
The construction of a structure such as a blind area is designed to minimize the negative impact of natural factors on the foundation part of the structure. Of course, it is impossible to completely protect it, but you can achieve the following:
- drain rain (as well as melt and flood) water from the basement of the house. In the short-term presence of moisture there will be no significant harm, however, long periods of stagnation of liquid can compromise the integrity of this part of the building. Due to constant exposure to moisture, concrete is subject to crumbling, the reinforcement part of the base is exposed and damaged by corrosion. As a result, the rigidity of the frame part of the structure is significantly reduced;
- stop soil movement. Soil is a mobile and capricious substance that affects any building. Depending on the type of foundation part, as well as the area chosen for placing the cottage, the following problems may be observed: shifts in soil layers, subsidence or, conversely, swelling of the soil surface, changes in the height of the water horizon. The blind area will reduce the stress on the building caused by these changes;
Blind area around a private house built of concrete and tiled
- maintain the temperature of the foundation and prevent a significant drop in this value in winter time. The construction of an insulated blind area around the house helps in solving this problem, since cold period special requirements are put forward for the foundation part hidden underground (it must be stable);
Helpful advice! Insulation work related to the blind area is carried out during the formation of the main platform and its pouring.
- improve appearance cottage The blind area can play the role of a frame, making the facade of the building complete and harmonious. This area is lined with plinth siding, decorative stone, and paving slabs.
The blind area made of paving slabs harmoniously combines with the design of the building itself
How to determine the width of the blind area around the house and other parameters
All the main parameters used for the construction of the blind area are regulated by a number of relevant SNiPs. These data make it possible to produce technologically correct and durable designs.
If we talk about a concrete product, then its width should be 20 cm greater than the end point of the protruding overhang roofing material. If there is a drainage system, these parameters must also be taken into account and included in the calculations. The final width is influenced by the characteristics of the soil and its type. The generally accepted width for a blind area is 100 cm. A monolithic concrete surface will not only provide freedom of movement along the wall of the house, but will also serve as a path.
The final indicators of the width and depth of the blind area are influenced by the characteristics of the soil: its features and type
The depth level (the depth of the blind area relative to the ground) is calculated based on the level of soil freezing in winter. Most often, this indicator is requested from the information department of the local architecture department or is established according to the table. Blind area must have the ability to move along with the ground, otherwise all its functions will be reduced to only one - water drainage.
Note! Communication systems placed in the soil have a direct impact on the depth of its freezing.
The minimum acceptable value for the thickness of the concrete blind area around the house is 7-10 cm (surface layer). If the building design includes a garage, this figure should be increased to 15 cm so that the structure can withstand high weight loads.
Diagram of a blind area around a concrete house
Protection is required for the entire perimeter of the building, so the length of the blind area depends on the length of the perimeter. You can skip the installation area of the concrete porch, since it itself is a reinforcing structure.
Blind area around the house: how to properly fill the structure, additional parameters
The maximum permissible surface slope is in the range of 1-10 cm/m. In other words, it is 1-10%. In this case, the angle of inclination should be directed strictly from the foundation. Such a large gap is explained by the fact that the slope angle directly depends on the type of soil, as well as the amount of precipitation characteristic of the region. The most commonly used slope is 2-3 cm/m (that is, 2-3°). If you take more, during frosts and icing the blind area will not be able to be used as a path.
Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete blind area around the house. Step 1: marking and preparing the area. Step 2: digging a trench, insulating the foundation with roofing felt
The level of the blind area above the ground (height from the soil level) should be at a height of at least 5 cm. Thanks to this, moisture will not accumulate at the edges of the structure and destroy it. Damage is especially likely to occur in the winter when water hardens and expands, causing cracks in the concrete.
The minimum height of the base part is 50 cm (if you are taking on the construction of a rigid type structure made of concrete) and 30 cm for soft blind area.
As for the border, this part has a decorative purpose, so the need to install it is dictated solely by your budget and personal preferences.
Note! If blackberries, raspberries, plane trees or poplars grow next to the blind area, they root system may destroy the structure. In such conditions, installation of a curb is mandatory.
Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete blind area around the house. Step 3: filling with clay in layers of 10-15 cm with layer-by-layer tamping (practice when working with unfavorable soil). Step 4: installation of formwork, pouring a layer of crushed stone 10-12 cm
Blind area around the house: construction and preparation for work
The construction of a concrete blind area is based on the formation of a reinforced belt around the perimeter of a residential building.
The design itself has only two main elements:
- The underlying layer is formed on the basis of materials with high level hygroscopicity, due to which the penetration of water to the foundation part of the building is blocked or slowed down. It is best to use sand or clay, geotextiles for these purposes, and small crushed stone is also suitable. It is allowed to use several of the listed materials at once.
- Decorative coating – used exclusively for decoration.
Creating a blind area around the house with your own hands: types of structures, tools
The scheme for creating a blind area has much in common with the construction of the foundation part:
- ditch formation;
- production of a shock-absorbing cushion consisting of layers of crushed stone and sand;
Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete blind area around the house. Step 5: laying the film. Step 6: laying reinforcement
- installation of reinforcing bars to create a frame for concrete;
- fill;
- finishing.
There are several types of blind areas, which differ from each other in the following ways:
- service life;
- design features;
- materials used for construction.
Based on the characteristics described above, 3 types of products are distinguished:
- hard;
- soft;
- semi-rigid.
Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete blind area around the house. Step 7: pouring concrete. Step 8: Leveling the Concrete Surface
Each of these blind areas has its own characteristics, capabilities and construction technology.
To carry out the work you should be armed with:
- Construction mixer - if you don’t have such a tool in your arsenal, you can always rent one (without this tool it is impossible to mix the entire volume, and mixing the solution in batches will lead to separation).
- Tools for excavation work - crowbar, pickaxe, shovel.
- Auxiliary tools - spatulas, trowel, building level, paint brushes.
- Containers for preparing the batch.
The process of constructing a blind area from paving slabs
Features of the blind area around the house with your own hands made of concrete (rigid structure)
This group of structures consists of monolithic concrete-based products, coatings made using cement pouring, as well as asphalted blind areas.
Helpful advice! If you plan to build a structure with subsequent insulation, only a rigid type of system is suitable for these purposes. Semi-rigid and soft options It is impractical and ineffective to insulate the blind area.
Monolithic structures can last almost as long as the building around which they are organized. But building such a system has several significant disadvantages.
Firstly, this process is quite labor-intensive and requires some effort and time. Secondly, construction costs are high. This problem also affects blind areas with asphalt covering, which cannot be organized without tar. The use of this binder pays off only if large-scale asphalt laying work is carried out. Within household this is not advisable.
For the construction of a blind area with insulation, only a rigid type of structure is suitable
The decorative characteristics of a monolithic system can also be attributed to its disadvantages, since the appearance of an asphalt or concrete platform can't be called beautiful.
Features of the blind area around the house made of paving slabs (semi-rigid structure)
In semi-rigid systems, the base layer is a multi-layer pad. The upper part of the structure is formed from paving stones or paving slabs. In addition to these materials, other types of coatings can be used:
- porcelain stoneware;
- cobblestones;
- reinforced concrete slabs.
Pouring a semi-rigid blind area around a house takes significantly less money and effort compared to monolithic structures. The construction technology in this case is quite simple, however, it cannot be used on heaving soils, which can compromise the integrity of the system.
Scheme of arranging a blind area around a house made of paving slabs
Otherwise, semi-rigid blind areas are considered the best option for all the most important indicators:
- external characteristics;
- price;
- quality.
Helpful advice! If the site has paved paths made of paving slabs, use the same type of material to organize the blind area. This will allow you to achieve unity of design in the exterior of the entire yard.
Advantages of semi-rigid systems:
- Long service life - provided that all the requirements of construction technology are met, the structure can last for 20-30 years.
- There are no restrictions regarding climatic conditions - the only exceptions are zones with permafrost.
- High level of maintainability.
- Low construction costs.
If the construction technology is followed, a tile blind area can last more than 20 years
Features of a soft blind area around the house
To build a soft type system, a multilayer cushion is formed, which is covered with a layer of crushed stone on top. This type of blind area requires minimal cash costs and effort, which cannot affect its service life. The average is only 7 years.
On the other hand, this type of construction can be used in any climate zone. There are no significant restrictions regarding the type of soil. As for repair work, this process is in this case simple enough.
In fact, the use of a soft system is advisable only as a temporary measure, for example, if you are limited in financial or labor resources or simply do not have free time. The need to replace the structure every 5-7 years is the main disadvantage of a soft blind area.
Diagram of the arrangement of various types of blind areas around the house
Making a blind area around the house: the right choice of materials
To create a blind area around the house with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- components for preparing concrete mortar. If you are not well versed in this issue, you can purchase a ready-made version of the mixture in dry form. The quality of concrete can be in the range of 100-1000. This indicator is called grade - it reflects the amount of cement contained in the solution. In addition, concrete has such a characteristic as strength. It is reflected by the material class. Modern mixtures can have a class in the range B3.5-B8. If we take class B15 as an example, then 1 m3 of concrete pouring with dimensional parameters of 15x15x15 cm is able to withstand a pressure of 15 MPa. Optimal quality of cement for work: class B15, grade M 200;
Helpful advice! All work should be completed before the onset of frost, so that there is time for complete drying and hardening.
- sand - necessary to form the bottom layer of the pillow. It is recommended to use quarry or river sand in the form of large particles without impurities, as they can damage geotextiles;
Crushed stone for the construction of a blind area must be clean and free of unnecessary impurities
- crushed stone with granule size 1-2 cm;
- geotextile or natural clay - used in the construction of a hydraulic lock.
Do-it-yourself mortar for the blind area around the house: how to fill the structure correctly
To create a solution with my own hands You should prepare all the necessary components in advance.
As we found out earlier, the grade of concrete is determined by the grade of cement, as well as by its amount in the components of the solution (% content). To make a blind area, it is recommended to take Portland Cement M 400. It must be fresh, since every month of delay is fraught with the loss of 5% of the useful properties of the material.
Checking how fresh the cement is is quite simple. To do this, you need to take a handful of material and tightly clench your hand into a fist. Cement with an expiring date will crumple into a lump, while a crumbly structure will indicate freshness. The fresher the material and the higher its grade, the better the quality of the solution.
To obtain a higher quality solution, additional additives are required, for example, liquid glass
The sand must be sifted and clean. It is better if it is thoroughly washed to remove impurities of clay, soil, etc. The optimal size of crushed stone fractions for preparing the solution is 0.5-1 cm. You will need water at room temperature.
To obtain a high-quality solution, additional additives are required. They increase the frost resistance of concrete. Most often, liquid glass is used for these purposes.
Note! In addition to the basic tools (containers, mixers, buckets, shovels, measuring devices), you need to take care of the presence of a vibrating plate or tamping log.
Blind area around the house: how to make the grout yourself (proportions)
The quality of the pour, its strength and durability depend on the proportions of the main components of the concrete solution. The amount of materials is determined by weight only.
Calculation of proportions for the solution:
The concrete mixture has special requirements regarding the amount of liquid. Excess water can dilute the solution and reduce the strength of concrete, since cement flour is gradually released into the upper layer. As a result, the density of the components will be unevenly distributed.
The most commonly used ratio of water to cement is 1:2. If you want to get the most accurate value, you should check it using the water-cement ratio table for concrete mortar (W/C).
The introduction of components into the solution is also carried out according to a strict sequence:
- Cement is poured into a concrete mixer (you can use a different container if you are using a construction mixer for mixing).
- Water is poured in and the solution is mixed until laitance is formed.
- Sand is poured in portions as mixing continues.
- Crushed stone is added.
The process of preparing concrete mortar
Helpful advice! Allow 5 minutes before serving each subsequent component. Thanks to this, you can achieve high-quality mixing of the mixture.
Making a cushion for the blind area around the house correctly
The cushion, which serves as the underlying layer, has the same construction scheme regardless of what type of blind area is chosen. An exception is the process of making a blind area around a house with your own hands from concrete with a monolithic type of construction. It will require different technology.
The main components of the pillow are:
- sand;
- clay;
- priming.
If you prefer to organize a soft type system around the house, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. For semi-rigid structures, an additional layer of crushed stone and sand will need to be poured over the formed cushion. Only after this can you begin laying paving stones or paving slabs.
Diagram of a concrete blind area with a top layer of large pebbles
Before pouring a blind area with a rigid platform around the house, you should arrange a sand and gravel cushion:
- add sand;
- fill in crushed stone;
- install insulation;
- perform reinforcement procedures and other types of work.
Do-it-yourself blind area around the house: preparing the construction area
First, you should outline the perimeter of the blind area by forming a trench. Its depth directly depends on the type of soil. The minimum value is 0.15-0.2 m. Construction work on heaving types of soil is accompanied by special requirements. In this case, the depth of the trench increases to 0.3 m.
Helpful advice! Pre-made markings will greatly facilitate the work.
The markings will facilitate subsequent work on the installation of the blind area
A simple way to apply markings:
- Metal rods are driven into the soil at the corners. An alternative is to use wooden pegs.
- Intermediate pegs are placed along the perimeter.
- By pulling a mooring cord or any other rope, all the pegs are connected. This line will be used as a guide and marking.
At this stage of work, it is possible to create a gap separating the blind area structure from the foundation part of the building. For these purposes, it is recommended to use polyurethane-based sealant and damper tape.
Next, the required slope of the system is set. This is done based on the type of design you choose. To achieve a certain slope, you need to dig a trench in such a way that there is a different depth at the points of the slope.
The process of building a blind area around the house: digging a trench
The bottom of the formed trench must be carefully compacted, using the most ordinary log. To do this, it is installed vertically, raised and lowered with force so that the soil at the bottom is compacted.
Construction of a blind area around the house: how to install formwork correctly
For work you will need boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm. The height is selected taking into account the parameters of the future design. To make your work easier, you can mark the height of future layers of the pillow on the material in advance. At the corners, the structure can be tightened and strengthened using corners. This is done with outside. It is recommended to use bolts, since they are easiest to remove during dismantling of the formwork. Optimal diameter fasteners – 10 mm.
Helpful advice! If the formwork structure will not be dismantled in the future, all wooden parts should be treated with an antiseptic before installing it. It doesn’t hurt to wrap the formwork with insulating material, such as roofing felt. This will protect the wood from rotting processes and increase the service life of the blind area.
Diagram of the formwork for the blind area
In order to ensure the stability of the boards of the formwork structure, you can use inclined supports or install blocks and bricks. During the work, an expansion joint will be required. This seam should run not only at the junction of the building walls with the blind area, but also across the system. If you ignore this requirement, over time the natural displacement of the soil, provoked by temperature changes, will lead to the appearance of cracks in the structure.
The arrangement of transverse seams is carried out at a certain interval. A distance of 2 m will be sufficient. To form gaps required size, you can use boards whose thickness is no more than 20 mm.
If you are planning a system that does not require pouring, you can do without installing a formwork structure.
The formwork can be dismantled upon completion of work or remain as part of the structure
Blind area of the house: how to make a sand and crushed stone cushion
The formed trench is filled with a layer of sand. The thickness of the sand layer depends on the total depth of the trench - the optimal parameter is 100-150 mm. For these purposes, it is recommended to use fine river sand. This layer will act as waterproofing.
After this, the sand should be thoroughly compacted in the same way as was done previously when forming the bottom of the trench. To achieve high compaction, the layer can be moistened with water.
Note! The required thickness (100-150 mm) of the sand layer is obtained not after backfilling, but after compaction is completed. Therefore, it is necessary to fill the material with a small margin in order to achieve this result.
A 50-100 mm thick embankment of crushed stone is formed on top of the sand. It is better if material with different fraction sizes is used, which will ensure maximum filling of voids and high cushion density. Crushed stone can be replaced with other types of materials, for example, broken bricks or gravel. This layer is designed to drain water that penetrates through the sand.
The process of creating a sand-crushed stone cushion. Step 1: pour sand in a layer of 10 cm with pouring and tamping, lay roofing material along the wall of the house with a height from the base of the trench to the expected top of the blind area (expansion joint)
If there is groundwater in the construction area in close proximity to the surface, geotextiles should be laid between a layer of sand and crushed stone to provide additional waterproofing protection. In this case, it is worth laying the material with a small margin so that the edges extend onto the walls of the formwork structure.
In the process of forming a cushion of crushed stone and sand, do not forget to maintain the angle of inclination, if any. At this point, the work on arranging the pillow is completed. The further procedure depends on the type of design chosen.
The process of creating a sand-crushed stone cushion. Step 2: place geotextiles on the compacted sand, fill with crushed stone with a fraction of 20-40 mm and a layer thickness of 10 cm, compacting with a vibrating plate
Construction of a concrete blind area around the house: cost of work, recommendations
The concrete structure of the blind area is suitable for cottage owners who prefer capital products with a long service life. The price of a blind area around the house is quite high compared to other system options. However, the costs in this case are fully justified by the long service life, high strength and reliability of the blind area.
An excellent option would be a reinforced concrete system with insulation. Thanks to the interlayer thermal insulation material the operational and technical characteristics of the basement and foundation parts of the house and the entire building are increased.
Note! The stage of laying insulation can be excluded from the technology, otherwise using the construction recommendations without changes. But such a decision will affect the quality of the resulting structure, because thermal insulation for the blind area is extremely important.
Diagram of a concrete blind area with insulation
The optimal width of the system with insulation should correspond to the soil freezing depth or exceed this value. The price of a blind area around the house, which cannot be done without significant financial investments, according to experts, in this case will be too high. In addition, the system will take a lot usable area. Therefore, you should limit yourself to 0.7-0.9 m.
Concrete blind area around the house: how much does it cost to make the structure?
The construction of the structure around the house can be done independently or you can hire workers specializing in the construction of blind areas for this purpose. If you are not confident in your own knowledge and abilities, it would be wiser to entrust the work to professionals. In this case, the expense item will contain not only the cost of purchasing materials, but also paying for the services of craftsmen.
Services for the construction of a blind area around the house (price per square meter):
| Name of service | Cost of work, rub./m² |
| Dismantling the old structure | 65 |
| Marking and soil preparation (removal of soil to a depth of 0.6 m) | 300 |
| Construction of a hydraulic lock (clay) | 100 |
| Installation of insulating material (geotextile, film) | 40 |
| Forming a pillow (0.5 cm sand layer + tamper) | 80 |
| Forming a pillow (crushed stone layer 10 cm) | 80 |
| Installation of a storm drain | 250 |
| Pipeline installation (m.p.) | 50 |
| Forming a blind area from the finished mixture | 300 |
| Forming a blind area + mixing concrete mortar | 650 |
The average cost of construction (services of craftsmen) costs approximately 1,300 rubles. If we talk about price, making a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands is much cheaper than hiring qualified specialists for these purposes, since in this case financial investments are required only for the purchase of materials.
Building an insulated blind area with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
Various materials can be used as insulation for blind areas. For concrete structures It is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. The technology in this case will change slightly, since it will not be possible to remove the wooden formwork. The insulation is glued to the boards using a specialized adhesive composition for expanded polystyrene.
Step-by-step instructions for the construction of an insulated blind area: 1 - marking, preparing the trench; 2 - creating a sand cushion; 3 - sand compaction; 4 - laying roofing felt along the foundation; 5 - installation of formwork; 6 - laying insulation (penoplex)
Helpful advice! As alternative solution Slate pre-wrapped with plastic film can be used. It should be buried in the ground along the line of the blind area. Even if visible parts of the formwork remain after construction, it can be disguised quite easily. Hiding wood is much more difficult.
After installing the side thermal insulation boards, you need to form a pillow using the technology that was discussed earlier.
Making a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands: installing insulation
In this case, two-layer thermal insulation technology using extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene will be used.
This is done in the following order:
- Installation of a foam layer (during installation, the slabs should be laid very tightly, temporarily fixing their position with bricks).
- Filling the gaps between the plates using polyurethane foam.
- Removing protruding parts of the foam after it has completely dried (use a sharp knife for this purpose).
- Installation of extruded polystyrene foam boards on top of foam plastic.
Step-by-step instructions for constructing an insulated blind area: 7 - laying a layer of geotextile or roofing felt; 8 - dividing the perimeter into sectors no more than 2 m long, installing lintels taking into account the slope; 9 - setting jumpers at corners at 45% relative to external corners for slope convergence along to different parties blind areas; 10 - laying reinforcement; 11 - pouring concrete; 12 - leveling the concrete surface using a rule or a regular board
There are grooves on the end zones of the expanded polystyrene slabs, eliminating the possibility of gaps appearing between the elements after installation. Installation is carried out in such a way that the seams of the upper layer do not coincide with the seams of the lower layer of foam. To cut the material, you can use a regular knife with a sharp blade.
Blind area around a concrete house: how to make reinforcement
The next step is reinforcement. Can be used as base material ready mesh. You can make it yourself using reinforcement 0.8-1 cm thick. To do this, a mesh with a cell size of 15x15 cm is formed from rods. Fixation is performed in the areas where the reinforcement intersects. Stores sell specialized fasteners that make this process easier.
Helpful advice! To save money, you can use tie wire instead of clamps.
The mesh is laid on the base with a slight indentation. To do this, you can use support clamps. Instead of fasteners, it is allowed to use other materials, for example, stones, broken bricks, etc.
You can make the mesh for reinforcement yourself or purchase a ready-made version
The foundation part is poured with an indentation of 5 cm. But in this case, such an indentation will significantly affect the height of the structure, so a gap of 0.5-1 cm should be left.
Blind area around the house: video on how to fill the structure and protect it
With the preparation of concrete for pouring, the construction of a blind area around the house begins; how to properly make the mixture has already been described earlier. For a reinforced concrete structure you will need grade M 400 (minimum). Cement should be mixed with sand and gravel in a ratio of 1:3:4 respectively. The amount of liquid is selected in such a way that the result is a mass of normal thickness. The solution must be plastic and homogeneous.
The prepared solution is poured onto the base. It must be spread over the surface with a mop or any other suitable tool, for example, a rule. Side walls formwork structures can be used as beacons.
The process of leveling the concrete surface
After the pouring is completed, the concrete must be pierced in several places to free up excess air. Use reinforcing bar for these purposes. Then you should seal these holes with the mixture and sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of cement (dry powder). According to technology requirements, at least 28 days should be allowed for drying of the fill.
The structure needs protection from the effects of precipitation. The blind area must be covered with polyethylene film.
Helpful advice! To improve the quality of the concrete system, it is recommended to lift the polyethylene and wet the concrete every two days a small amount water.
Now you know how to do a blind area around a house with your own hands, a video review of the technology will help you understand this issue in more detail:
Blind area around the house: how to make a soft structure
To create a soft blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to create a trench and fill in a layer of sand. Don't forget to set the embankment to the required angle of inclination.
Next, waterproofing material is laid on the sand. Ruberoid is the most popular material used for these purposes, but rubemast, despite its cost, has a longer service life.
For a formwork structure 0.8 m wide, you will need to cut the material, because rubemast is sold in the form of rolls 1 m wide. If you do not want to cut it, you can simply bend the excess parts and glue them to the wall with molten bitumen.
Scheme of a soft-type blind area with a top layer of gravel
On the waterproofing layer you need to make an embankment (10 cm) of sand and crushed stone (these materials are mixed in equal proportions). It must be compacted and leveled, while maintaining the required angle of inclination.
A soft blind area needs an additional layer of crushed stone. Crushed stone (3-5 cm) is poured over the mixture and compacted. Thanks to this additional layer, the blind area will not be subject to subsidence during operation. Finally, you can disguise the boards of the formwork structure with decorative borders.
You can use additional information for the construction of a blind area around the house. The video on how to make each layer clearly reflects all the features of this process:
Arranging a blind area from paving slabs with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
The construction of a blind area from paving slabs and paving stones is carried out in the same way. Choice finishing coating It depends entirely on your budget and preferences.
Note! When using paving stones as a finishing coating, there are some restrictions: the foundation must be waterproofed.
Paving stones have only one significant drawback - the price of tiles for blind areas around the house is much lower than this material.
Average prices for paving stones:
| Name, dimensional parameters | Number of elements per 1 m² | Cost, rub./m² | |||||
| Grey | Red | Brown | Blue | Green | Black | ||
| Rectangle (190/90/57) | 58,5 | 360 | 430 | 430 | 510 | 540 | 430 |
| Wave (220/110/60) | 39 | 400 | 460 | 460 | 660 | 560 | 460 |
| Coil (198/163/70) | 35 | 420 | 460 | 460 | 690 | 590 | 460 |
| Flower (110/110/60) | 78 | 440 | 460 | 460 | 660 | 560 | 460 |
| Shell (188/173/70) | 30 | 420 | 460 | 460 | 690 | 590 | 460 |
| Brick (200/100/70) | 50 | 410 | 460 | 460 | 690 | 560 | 460 |
| Monomakh's hat (brick+2 pentagons) | 8/16 | 430 | 460 | 460 | 690 | 590 | 460 |
| Pentagon (280/240/70) | 20 | 430 | 460 | 460 | 660 | 590 | 460 |
Having analyzed the data from the table, you can see that the cost of purchasing paving stones or tiles for a blind area around a house largely depends on the size parameters, shape and color of the material.
Blind area around the house: video on how to make a structure, paving technology
For the blind area, a sand-crushed stone cushion is formed from tiles in the same way as described earlier. Only in this case will you need to make an additional layer of sand on top of it (8-10 cm).
When constructing a blind area from paving slabs, it is necessary to create a sand or sand-crushed stone cushion
The paving technology is simple enough that this procedure can be performed independently. You can start installing tiles from any angle that seems convenient to you. As you paving, you should move away from you. During the work process, it is recommended to use the bricklaying method.
Note! The arrangement of elements can be any. It can be invented or used ready-made options, of which there are many on the Internet.
To ensure that the tiles fit tightly to the base, it is better to use a special tool - a rubber mallet.
Scheme for installing tiles using a mallet:
- lay tiles on the surface of the base;
When paving tiles or paving stones, it is better to use a special tool - a rubber mallet
- a wooden plank should be placed on top of the tiles;
- Using a mallet, you must gently and carefully press the tile, tapping the tool on the board.
Remember to use a building level to check the tile surface. Not only the tile itself, but also all the rows should be positioned evenly in relation to each other. In some cases, you may experience material subsidence. This problem is solved by pouring sand under the corresponding coating elements. Protruding areas can be brought into place using a mallet.
When paving, it is very important to maintain the required slope of the blind area. The entire surface of the system is laid with tiles. To cut the material to the desired size, it is recommended to use a grinder.
Blind area around the house: how to repair a concrete system with your own hands
During operation, the concrete blind area may be subject to destruction. But if you repair the blind area around the house with your own hands, you can not only extend the service life of this structure, but also significantly save on paying for the services of craftsmen.
The most common problems:
- occurrence of cracks;
- surface delamination;
- crumbling
The cost of repairing the blind area around the house, done with your own hands, depends on several factors. First of all, the cost of the work depends on the degree of neglect of the structure, as well as the method that was chosen to repair the damage. The type of material and its quantity are also important.
Elimination of cracks in the blind area using sealant
Do-it-yourself methods for eliminating cracks in a blind area
Cracks in the blind area can be of different types. Such damage may be classified as cracks, concrete breaks or cracks. It depends on the depth of the damage. Methods for dealing with cracks in each case will be appropriate to the depth and severity of these damages.
Helpful advice! All work to eliminate cracks in the blind area must be performed in the off-season (autumn/spring).
Table of methods for repairing blind areas and necessary materials:
| Depth of damage | Elimination method | Repair materials |
| 1 mm | "self-healing" | small cracks are not dangerous for the structure; they self-correct as you walk along the blind area |
| 1-3 mm | "cement paste" | cracks are filled with a solution consisting of cement and water in proportions 1:1 |
| 3-30 mm | pouring concrete; formation of a hydraulic seal; use of sealants |
pouring concrete requires preliminary expansion of cracks to a cone shape and application of a primer (Ceresit ST-17); to form a hydroseal you will need Lugato 5 Mortel putty; ISOSEAL P-40, TEKTOR 103 is suitable for sealing cracks with sealant |
| more than 30 mm | pouring concrete | damage of this size are considered structural splits and can only be repaired by pouring concrete |
How to eliminate delamination and crumbling
The second most common problem is delamination. Experts call this process delamination or dusting of concrete.
There are several prerequisites for the appearance of delamination:
- Uneven hardening of the concrete solution (occurs in spring when concrete is poured onto a cold base).
- The structure is too thick.
- Exceeding the norm of air content in the solution.
- Exceeding the proportion of crushed stone in the concrete solution.
Detailed instructions for repairing the blind area
If the surface of the blind area crumbles or delaminates, the structure should be treated using “cement dough”. To eliminate this problem, the use of compositions with liquid glass is allowed. The main components of the solution are water, cement, and liquid glass in equal proportions.
Damage elimination scheme:
- Analysis of the situation, determination of damage boundaries.
- Cutting down part of the concrete.
- Treatment of the edge zone with a primer.
- Applying the solution to the damaged area.
- Covering the solution with film.
The area of the completed repair should be kept under the film until the solution dries completely.
Note! If the damage is not repaired in time, you will subsequently have to dismantle the blind area and form a new structure. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out everything renovation work in a timely manner.
Blind area around a private house made of paving stones
Additional protective measures
There are several ways to protect a concrete blind area from premature destruction:
- ironing method;
- coating with a primer;
- liquid glass processing;
- cladding with natural stone or installation of tile covering.
Regardless of what type of structure you choose (rigid, semi-rigid or soft system), it is recommended to install a storm drain next to the blind area. With the help of this element, you can prevent siltation of your personal plot by diverting the flowing water to a suitable place.
Even the strongest foundation is eventually exposed to moisture, which gradually reduces the load on the house’s drainage system, as well as on vertical waterproofing. To prevent this from happening, do a concrete blind area with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for which will be discussed in the article.
Concrete blind area is a necessary covering to protect the foundation
In addition to its main function (protection from interaction with moisture), this coating also allows you to create a pedestrian zone around the perimeter of the house and give the architectural appearance of the building a complete look.
However, before pouring the blind area, it is necessary to pay attention to its design features and the requirements for construction projects of this type.
Design of the blind area
The concrete blind area has quite simple design, for the preparation of which the following materials will be required:
- Bedding (pillow). This is done before pouring the solution. A variety of materials are used as backfill: coarse or medium sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, fine gravel. The foundation area cannot be laid on fine sand due to the possibility of shrinkage, since in this case there is a risk that the base will crack. It is best to prepare a two-layer cushion: first lay gravel or crushed stone, which will compact the soil, and then sand.
- Reinforcement. Availability reinforcing mesh for a concrete blind area it will give the structure more strength. The cell size of this product is usually 30 x 30 or 50 x 50 cm. The mesh diameter should be about 6-8 mm, but it all depends on the type of soil.
- Formwork. Wooden guides located along the perimeter of the coating are required, as they will prevent the concrete mixture from spreading. The width of the formwork boards is usually 20-25 mm.
- Concrete solution. The blind area is poured using a specific concrete mixture composition.
The brand of mortar must be carefully selected, since the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend on its quality and characteristics. For such a coating, Mixture M 200 is usually used, the strength class of which is no less than B 15 (a higher grade can be purchased). It is also worth paying attention to the frost resistance of the composition, which should not be less than F 50. To ensure better resistance to temperature changes, it is recommended to give preference to compositions with an index of F 100.
To obtain a high-quality coating, it is most profitable to make the concrete mixture yourself.
Making a concrete mixture for the blind area of a house
To organize a concrete blind area around the house it is not necessary to buy ready mixture and order expensive delivery by concrete mixer. Knowing the proportions of the components, you can make M 200 concrete yourself, for this you will need:
- 1 part cement (the optimal one is Portland cement 400);
- 3 parts sand (preferably medium, but fine-grained will do);
- 4 parts of coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone);
- ½ part water.
Accordingly, to get 1 cubic meter of concrete you need to mix:
- 280 kg of cement;
- 1100 kg of crushed stone;
- 800 kg of sand;
- 190 liters of water.
Also using PC 400, you can get other brands.
Healthy! First of all, cement and water are mixed, and only after the composition is homogeneous, sand and gravel are added to it.
To ensure that the design of the blind area is strong and the concreting is durable, certain rules and requirements are provided.
Design requirements
To fill the blind area of a house with concrete, you need to familiarize yourself with the regulations and recommendations of SNiP:
- The width of the blind area should be 20 cm greater than the roof overhang (SNiP 2.02.01-83). If the structure has a drainage system, then its indicators are also taken into account. Optimal value is considered 1 meter. In this case, you can lay a tile path around the house.
- The length of the blind area around the house, made with your own hands, must correspond to the perimeter of the building. However, if you plan to install a concrete porch, then a “break” is allowed.
- Depth. The depth of the “tape” is half the calculated freezing depth of the ground.
- The thickness of the concrete blind area is also regulated by SNiP and, according to these requirements, should be at least 7-10 cm for the top layer. However, many people make concrete parking spaces for personal cars along with the blind area. In this case, the operational load increases, and the thickness of the concrete blind area can reach up to 15 cm.
- Slope. According to SNiP III-10-75, the slope should be from 1 to 10 cm for each meter of width. Most often it is 2-3 cm per meter - this is approximately 2-3 degrees. The angle of inclination must be directed in the direction opposite to the foundation. It is not recommended to increase the slope, since in this case it will be difficult to walk along such a path in winter, when ice forms on the surface.
- Border. The installation of a blind area for a house does not include the mandatory production of a border, so in this case the decision is made by the owners of country property. However, experts recommend installing such “limiters” if trees and shrubs with an “aggressive” root system (blackberries, raspberries, plane trees, poplars and others) grow near the foundation.
- Base height. For a hard type covering (concrete), the base must be at least 50 cm.
- The recommended height of the blind area above ground level is 5 cm or more.
There are also several schemes according to which a blind area of crushed stone can be erected in the form of a monolithic concrete covering both for the usual type of soil and for the “problematic” one.
Knowing the requirements of SNiP and the features of a suburban area, you can make a blind area with your own hands using the step-by-step instructions given below.
We make the blind area ourselves
The technology for constructing a blind area includes several stages that even a beginner in construction work can handle.
Preparation
To begin creating a protective coating around your home, prepare:
- pickaxe;
- twine;
- roulette;
- tamper;
- pegs for marking;
- waterproof film (geotextile);
- concrete mixture;
- boards for formwork;
- hacksaw;
- level;
- nails;
- reinforcement material, welding machine and wire cutters;
- usually a trowel, spatula;
- sealant for processing seams (it is better to purchase a polyurethane compound).
Marking
Arrangement of the blind area around the house begins with preparing the area for construction. At this stage, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future “tape”, or rather the trench for it, using pegs. There are several recommendations in this regard:
- The step between the beacons is 1.5 m.
- The depth of the trench will depend on the soil, but the minimum value is 0.15-0.2 meters. If the ground is “heaving”, then the depth increases to 0.3 m.
The easiest way to apply markings is to proceed in the following sequence:
- Drive metal or wood pegs into the ground at the corners of the house.
- Install intermediate beacons along the perimeter of the building.
- Stretch the cord or rope, connecting all the pegs.
Healthy! At this stage, you can use a sealant to separate protective covering from the foundation.
After this, the slope of the system is formed; for this, a trench is dug in which the depth of one of its sides will be greater. To compact the resulting ditch, it is enough to use wood. First, you need to place the log vertically, lift it and sharply lower it down with force. This will compact the bottom of the trench.
Formwork
For formwork you will need boards on which it is better to immediately mark the height of the future cushion. Attach the improvised “box” in the corners metal corners(with bolts from the outside).
Important! If you do not want to remove the formwork after the construction of the concrete blind area is completed, then be sure to treat the wood with an antiseptic compound and wrap the boards with roofing felt.
Making a pillow
In order for a concrete blind area to be made according to all the “canons” of construction, it is imperative to prepare a sand or clay base for it. The thickness of the sand layer can reach up to 20 cm. It is best to lay the pillow in several layers, moistening and thoroughly tamping each subsequent layer. At the final stage, the surface needs to be leveled.
Waterproofing
The waterproofing device involves laying several layers of roofing material or other geotextiles on the pillow.
- The material needs to be “wrapped” slightly onto the walls to create an expansion joint.
- Roofing felt must be laid overlapping.
- A thin layer of sand is poured on top of the geotextile, and then 10 cm of gravel.
- If you plan to install a drainage system, then it is laid close to the resulting “water seal”.
Reinforcement, pouring and drying
Above the level of 3 cm from the layer with crushed stone, it is necessary to lay a metal mesh in increments of 0.75 m. After this, you need to mix the concrete and pour it in equal portions into the resulting formwork sections. In this case, the poured composition should reach the level of the upper edge of the wooden “box”.
Healthy! After pouring, pierce the surface with an iron rod in several places to allow excess air to escape.
The composition can be distributed using a trowel or a rule. To increase the resistance of concrete, 2 hours after pouring, ironing is performed. To do this, the surface is covered with a layer of dry PC 400 3-7 mm thick.
Healthy! To prevent the composition from cracking, it must be moistened with water 1-2 times a day.
In addition to how to properly fill the blind area, you need to take care that it does not crack during the drying process. To do this, you need to protect the coating from precipitation and sun using plastic film. It is believed that the blind area dries completely in 10-14 days. However, according to the regulations, at least 28 days should be allowed for drying.
Post Views: 7
Due to geological features, the house is exposed to external factors not only from the atmosphere, but also from the soil. Installing a blind area around the house is one of the stages of comprehensive protection that allows you to protect the building from the manifestations of nature (rain, melt, groundwater). Roof and drainage system protects the walls and the house itself from water, but precipitation flows to the ground near the building and destroys the foundation. What is a blind area? Why do you need a foundation blind area, what is its purpose and how to do it yourself?
What is a blind area at home
A blind area is a covering around the perimeter of a house, designed to protect the foundation, basement and basement from water. It is made of waterproof material at a slope from the foundation.
Why do you need a blind area around the house (functions):
- hydrobarrier - protecting the foundation of a building from moisture. First of all, rain and melt water are diverted away from the foundation using a blind area. In addition, the presence of a blind area imparts thermal insulation properties to the foundation;
- comfort - the blind area can be used as a path around the house. A wide blind area can become the basis for arranging a recreation area or terrace near the house. With the correct calculation of the load, it is possible to organize the movement of a car or its parking along the blind area;
- aesthetics - design of the site and local area, giving the structure completeness.
- the blind area stabilizes the air-gas regime in the soil surrounding the foundation. The soil invariably contains oxygen, which is necessary for plant growth and the vital activity of soil microorganisms. Large pests also create passages for air to enter the soil;
- eliminates the possibility of damage to the foundation due to frost heaving of soil. It occurs due to the fact that water, solidifying in the soil during the cold season, increases its volume. Soil heaving in itself does not pose any threat, but it creates a significant lateral load on the foundation of the house, which can result in a distortion of the foundation of the house, which will ultimately lead to the destruction of the building standing on it. Thus, the blind area allows you to distribute the load more evenly.
Types of blind areas around the house
Taking into account the fact that the period of operation of the blind area should be equal to the period of operation of the structure itself, special attention should be paid to the choice of material for its construction.
In practice, several approaches to making a blind area are used, but in general it is classified as either hard or soft.
Rigid blind area
1. Concrete blind area
The blind area is made of concrete in the vast majority of cases. Concrete is a reliable material, time-tested and proven by more than one generation of users. Almost every man has an idea of how to make a concrete blind area. And knowing the nuances of pouring it, he can do the work with his own hands.
It is mostly used to protect the foundations of multi-story buildings. This is caused by two factors. Firstly, the difficulty of compacting the material (considerable effort is required). Secondly, to keep the asphalt in a condition suitable for pouring, its temperature should be about 120 degrees. Agree, it is difficult to make a blind area from asphalt without special equipment. Thirdly, when heated, asphalt emits harmful impurities, and therefore few users are ready to replace clean air country house, for a typically urban scent.
3. Blind area made of ceramic tiles
It belongs to the category of hard because the tiles are laid on a concrete mortar. Clinker tiles are used as facing material, as they are more resistant to external influence. This blind area copes well with its functions, but the cost of clinker tiles is high. Therefore, its analogue, concrete paving slabs, has become more widespread.
Soft blind area
4. Blind area made of paving slabs (paving stones)
A relatively new direction in protecting the foundation from water. Despite the novelty of the material (or rather, the old one, since it is a prototype of paving stones - a cheaper analogue), laying paving slabs with your own hands does not cause any particular difficulties.
5. Blind area made of gravel (crushed stone) or natural stone
The gravel blind area (made of cobblestones, rubble stones) has not become popular for several reasons: the difficulty of compaction, the inconvenience of movement, the need to constantly correct the coating (it can be washed away by unorganized drainage), and the possibility of weeds sprouting. Stone blind area - a good option, but more complex installation and high cost compared to tiles.
6. Hidden blind area around the house
In this case, the front material is the soil on which you can plant lawn grass, flowers, arrange flower beds. A blind area of a hidden type is made according to general principle: the top layer of soil is removed, a layer of waterproofing, a layer of sand and crushed stone are laid. The difference is that the top of the pie is covered with geotextile or PVP membrane, on top of which soil is poured. It is not advisable to walk on a hidden blind area; there is a risk of damaging the profiled membrane and trampling the grass. But, if done correctly, it will serve faithfully for a long time.
Which blind area is better - made of paving slabs or concrete?
Each of the above types of blind area has its own advantages, disadvantages and construction features. According to statistics and reviews, today the most popular (most often used) blind areas are poured from concrete and laid out from tiles. Therefore, it would be correct within the article to consider what is better, concrete or paving slabs for the blind area?
This question is asked by many craftsmen and users. Practical operating experience indicates the effectiveness of the tiles. The advantages are as follows:
- the ability to create a continuous, strong and stable blind area. At the same time, ensuring the integrity of a concrete blind area is much more difficult than a tiled one;
- maintainability. The tiles can be dismantled completely or partially. Thus, the process of repairing a blind area or laying communications is significantly simplified. In the case of concrete, it is necessary to destroy part of the blind area, dispose of the concrete fractions, and restore it again after laying. Eliminating tile subsidence or replacing a defective element in a tile blind area is not difficult and will not take much time. And most importantly, the tiles can be reused;
- reliability. The tiled blind area drains water well thanks to a large number seams. This allows us to assert that it does not deform as a result of soil heaving or water freezing. Water that has frozen on the surface of a concrete blind area can lead to local cracking of the material. At first, these cracks will not pose a threat, but each subsequent flooding will cause the crack to expand and the blind area to collapse.
Another nuance is the location where the blind area adjoins the house. As you know, the blind area should not form a single structure from the foundations (should not be connected to it). Soil movement and freeze/thaw cycles will inevitably cause this bond to break. By laying tiles it is easier to ensure the required technological gap. In addition, the destruction of concrete most often occurs precisely at the place where it adjoins the foundation or plinth (the blind area comes off);
- foundation insulation. The technology for laying paving slabs involves the arrangement of several layers, incl. the use of clay and the possibility of laying insulation. An insulated foundation blind area is an additional protection for the basement and ground floor, which reduces heat loss and ultimately leads to savings on heating the house;
- reduction in plinth height. With a rigid blind area (made of concrete), the minimum height of the plinth should be at least 500 mm. For soft (tiles, paving stones, gravel, natural stone), a height of 300 mm will be sufficient. This reduces the cost of installing a plinth;
- ease of work, no need for a reinforcing frame, minimum waste, minor dustiness of the work;
- additional waterproofing of the foundation blind area. While a concrete blind area protects the foundation only from the influence of surface water (rain or melt), a clay hydraulic lock, which is made to form a cushion for laying paving slabs, allows you to protect the base of the building from groundwater;
- more aesthetically pleasing appearance compared to a concrete blind area. A variety of installation options, designs, sizes and colors allows you to create a unique blind area.
The main advantage that led to the use of concrete as a material for the blind area is its low cost. Buying paving slabs and materials for laying them will cost more, even if you do the installation yourself.
Cost of blind area of a private house
In order not to be unfounded, we will give a brief comparative description, i.e. We will indicate in the table the prices for blind areas made of concrete and paving slabs. All prices for 2015, approximate, are presented for information purposes as a guideline for drawing up estimates.
The cost of a concrete blind area (width 1 m, thickness 10 cm)
| Material | Material consumption per 1 sq.m. | Price | The cost of a concrete blind area per 1 sq.m. rub. | |
| Concrete M22, class B-15 | 1 | RUB 3,500 | 350 | |
| For self-preparing concrete | ||||
| per 1 cubic meter | For 1 sq.m. | |||
| Cement M 500 | 320 kg | 32 kg | 200 rub/50 kg | 128 |
| Screenings or crushed stone (fraction 5-10 mm) | 0.8 cubic meters | 0.08 cubic meters | 160 | |
| Sand | 0.5 cubic meters | 0.05 cubic meters | 400-600 rub/m3 (the price is also affected by the loading location: quarry or delivery) | 30 |
| Water | 190 l | 19 l | At local rate | |
| Concrete additives* | ||||
| For pillow | ||||
| Geotextile, PVC film) | 1 sq.m. | 110-2500 rub/roll (50 sq.m.) | 100 | |
| Sand | 0.05-0.1 cubic meters Depending on the thickness of the layer and the composition of the finishing base for the tile | 400-600 rub./m3. | 25-50 | |
| 0.1 cubic meters | 1800-2000 cubic meters (the price is also affected by the loading location: quarry or delivery) | 190 | ||
| Reinforcement | ||||
| Fittings, diameter 6 mm. | 12 m.p. | 10 r/m.p. | 120 | |
| Reinforcing mesh 50x50, diameter 3 mm. | 1 sq.m. | 60 rub./piece (1000x2000) | 60 | |
| Reinforcing mesh 150x150, diameter 3 mm. | 1 sq.m. | 33 RUR/piece (500x2000) | 66 | |
| Formwork installation | ||||
| Boards for formwork** | ||||
| Beam 30x30 for spacers** | ||||
| Total: | ~ 800 rub/sq.m. | |||
* We are talking about additives (plasticizers) that give concrete additional properties (strength, frost resistance). The addition of plasticizers to the concrete mortar is at the discretion of the master. In the “classic” recipe given, their cost is not taken into account.
** to form the formwork when pouring a blind area, in practice, old boards or used plywood are used. Therefore, their cost is also taken into account.
The cost of a blind area made of paving slabs 1 meter wide
| Material | Material consumption per 1 sq.m. | Price | The cost of a blind area made of paving slabs per 1 sq.m. rub. |
| For pillow | |||
| Clay | Depends on the soil and the desired thickness of the hydraulic lock 0.05-0.1 cubic meters. | 250-400 rub/m3 (depending on the location of the quarry and the fat content of the clay) | 15-30 |
| Geotextile, PVC film | 1 sq.m. | 110-2500 rub/roll (50 sq.m.) | 100 |
| Sand | 0.15-0.2 cubic meters Depending on the thickness of the layer and the composition of the finishing base for the tile | 400-600 rub/m3 | 75-100 |
| Screenings or crushed stone (fraction 3-10 mm) | 0.1 cubic meters | 1800-2000 cubic meters (the price is also affected by the loading location: quarry or delivery) | 190 |
| For the finishing layer | |||
| Cement M 500 | 10 kg. Depends on the purpose of the formwork | 500 rub/50 kg | 100 |
| Sifted sand | 2.5 - 10 kg. Depends on the purpose of the formwork | 100 rub/50 kg | 10 |
| For the front layer | |||
| Tile | Depends on the size of the tile. 50 pcs. for the “brick” shape | 300-1,500 RUR/pcs. on average 400 rubles. for the “brick” shape | 2000 |
| Border | 2 pcs. | 75-300 rub/piece. depending on thickness | 360 |
| Water for irrigation sands and blind areas | Before puddles form | At local rate | |
| Total: | ~ 3000 rub/sq.m | ||
How long does it take to install a blind area?
An important point, based on the experience of constructing blind areas of various types, can be cited approximate time for the construction of each of them. The calculation was made based on the total time spent by one person on making a blind area of 50 square meters.
- Completion of all work on preparing the base, forming the formwork and pouring the concrete blind area takes approximately 40-50 minutes. per 1 sq.m. (20-25 minutes when using ready-made concrete).
- Filling the pillow and laying tiles 1 sq.m. takes 60-70 minutes. Moreover, a significant amount of time is spent on the process of compacting the base.
It should be noted that with an increase square meters(area) the speed of work increases.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands - video
Construction of a blind area for a house - SNiP and GOST
The second aspect that needs to be taken into account before you start building a blind area with your own hands is the provisions and recommendations of regulatory documents. These include:
GOST 9128-97. Mixtures of asphalt concrete road, airfield and asphalt concrete. Contains recommendations on determining the angle of inclination of the blind area.
GOST 7473-94. Concrete mixtures. They contain requirements for the quality of concrete used for arranging the blind area. Required when arranging a blind area that serves as a driveway for a car.
SNiP 2.04.02-84. Water supply. External networks and structures. SNiP regulates the construction of a blind area around a well, contains recommendations for choosing the angle of inclination, as well as for arranging a castle made of clay or rich loam.
SNiP 2.02.01-83 Foundations of buildings and structures. Regulates the main parameters of the blind area device (dimensions):
1. Width of the blind area around the house (foundation)
Determined from the position of soil type. As you know, soil with different compositions subsides differently. For example, clay soil is divided into two types:
- Type 1 soil does not sag under its own weight or its subsidence is no more than 50 mm and can be caused by external factors.
- Type 2 soil can sag under its own weight.
Thus, based on soil data, the composition and thickness of the base layers for laying paving slabs is selected. Based on the provisions of SNiP, craftsmen determine how wide the blind area around the house should be.
It has been verified by practice that for type 1 soil the minimum width of the blind area should be at least 700 mm, for type 2 - at least 1,000 mm.
If there is normal soil on the site, the optimal width of the blind area can be 800-1,000 mm. In this case, the width can be considered sufficient if it exceeds the overhang of the roofing material over the load-bearing walls by 200 mm (for normal soil) and 600 mm for type 2 clay soil.
The final decision on how wide the foundation blind area should be depends on the users and the purpose of the blind area. Which may consist of the following: only foundation protection, protection + occasional human movement, protection + heavy pedestrian traffic (for example, a terrace or gazebo) or protection + car traffic.
Such parameters as the length and height (thickness) of the blind area are not regulated by SNiP. Users advise taking them as:
2. Length of the blind area around the house
3. Thickness (height) of the blind area around the house
Minimum thickness of the blind area: no less than 70 mm, optimally 100-150 mm.
Note. The height of the blind area is not determined to zero. It should rise above the soil by at least 50 mm.
For the blind area that serves as a pedestrian zone, the requirements are becoming more stringent. They mainly concern the design of the pillow. For the automobile zone, it is advisable to make the most durable base possible and, when choosing paving slabs, give preference not to vibro-cast, but to vibro-pressed ones.
SNiP III-10-75 Landscaping. The standard regulates the installation location of the blind area. It should fit tightly to the base at an angle. At the same time, the slope of the blind area should be within 1-10% in the direction opposite to the load-bearing wall.
4. Slope of the blind area of the house
The angle of inclination of the blind area is measured in percentages and degrees. For 1 m of blind area width, the slope should be 10-100 mm, i.e. 1-10%. In practice, the slope does not exceed 15-20 mm per 1 linear meter. This slope is invisible visually, but does an excellent job of draining water from the foundation and base of the house.
Note. A large slope can lead to the fact that the flow of water will increase speed when moving along the blind area and, gaining strength, quickly destroy its outer edge.
Another document worth considering is the “Schemes operational control quality of construction, repair, construction and installation works.” Based on it, you can study the permissible deviations from the given standards.
5. Expansion joint in the blind area (deformation, temperature)
To compensate for the movement of the blind area and reduce the pressure on the foundation, an expansion joint is provided - a gap between the wall (basement) and the blind area. A thermal seam is formed by installing a sheet of insulation or several layers of roofing felt to a vertical surface. Sometimes a wooden board is installed at the junction, which is then removed, and the place where it is installed is sealed (covered) with sand. This is a labor-intensive method, because removing a board from hardened concrete is quite difficult.
Conclusion
The information provided from the theoretical part will become a useful basis for constructing a blind area around the house with your own hands. Knowing how to properly make a blind area, you can be sure that the created structure will last a long time and effectively.
