A lot has been said and written about how to sheathe gypsum board walls with your own hands. Let's consider the most important points this process in order to avoid mistakes and ultimately obtain a perfectly smooth and high-quality surface. By strictly following all the recommendations, you will reduce the risk of defects in your work to zero.
Tools and materials for covering gypsum board walls
To complete the work of covering walls with sheets of plasterboard you will need:
1. Any sheets of drywall - depending on the purpose of the room. That is, ordinary, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, laminated or purple.
2. Metal profile or wooden blocks section 30x30 or 40x40 mm.
3. “Crabs”, spacer dowels and special hangers.
4. Small grinder, metal scissors, impact drill, screwdriver.
5. Self-tapping screws for drywall.
6. A simple pencil or marker, a construction knife, tape measure, level, plumb line;
7. Reinforcing tape, putty and a set of spatulas.
Choosing the right method for installing drywall
There are two types of plasterboard wall coverings – frameless and framed. In the first case, the gypsum board is attached to the walls using special glue. However, this installation method has some limitations.
Firstly, the height of the walls should not exceed the height of the plasterboard sheet. Otherwise, you will not achieve even horizontal mates.
Secondly, the initial state of the walls should be fairly even and carefully prepared.
Cladding gypsum board walls using the frame method is more practical and popular. This is done relatively quickly and easily. Laying gypsum plasterboard on a frame base allows you to sheathe any walls, regardless of their condition and size. Under sheets of drywall you can hide all kinds of communications, which will make appearance the premises are more attractive.
GCRs are attached to a wooden frame or to a frame made of a metal profile. The profile is the best option for the manufacture of a frame base. You should be careful about its installation; the quality of the frame will determine the outcome of your work.
Covering walls with plasterboard - video tutorial
GKL fastening technology
1. Using a level on the ceiling and floor, mark the places where horizontal guide profiles will be installed. The required lengths of the profile pieces are cut using a grinder or metal scissors and fastened at the marked points with dowel nails. A full profile requires at least six holes; they can be drilled directly through the metal with a hammer drill or a powerful impact drill. When drilling, wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from dust and debris. Special attention you need to pay attention to the accuracy of the markings. This is done with the utmost care using a plumb line or level.
2. The next stage of work is the installation of central rack profiles. In order to make the entire structure reliable, the distance between them is 40-50 cm. The profile is mounted to the walls using metal support-hangers. The optimal step between supports is 60 cm.
Be sure to consider in advance whether you will be hanging heavy objects on the wall. If you plan to have shelves, cabinets or plasma TVs on the walls, then you need to take care of additional amplifiers. To do this, a strong wooden block is placed inside the transverse profile.
3. After the process of creating the frame is completed, if necessary, you can insulate the space with a special thermal insulation material. This is especially true if external walls will be covered with plasterboard.
4. GKL is easily and simply cut using regular stationery knife. You only need to apply required sizes onto the sheet, then, using a building level or a metal ruler, cut through the cardboard with a knife. Let a few millimeters of plaster get under the blade - this will make the process easier. We place the plasterboard on the table with its whole side and carefully break the sheet along the cut line. As a result, the two pieces of drywall are held together only by a layer of cardboard, which is also cut with a knife. The option of cutting gypsum board with a hacksaw is also possible, but it is more labor-intensive and dusty.
5. It is better to attach drywall sheets together. Still, the dimensions of the material are impressive, and it will not be easy for one person to hold the sheet and cope with high-quality installation.
It should be remembered that the sheet should not rest against the floor or ceiling, so cut it 1.5-2 cm shorter than the required size.
6. We install the gypsum board in place and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the metal profile. The optimal pitch is 25 cm, the distance from the edge of the gypsum board is at least 1 cm. Screw in the screws carefully and carefully! A self-tapping screw that is too recessed can pierce through a sheet of drywall, which means you will have to add another one in another place. But an “under-tightened” self-tapping screw protruding above the surface of the drywall is also not very good. When installing gypsum boards, it is advisable to leave a small gap between the sheets, approximately 3-5 mm.
Final works
After the main and most labor-intensive work of covering the walls with plasterboard is completed, you can proceed to the next stage - sealing the seams between the gypsum boards. To do this, use a special putty for drywall, a spatula, reinforcing tape and a small trowel.
Approach this procedure thoroughly! The seams must be sealed efficiently and evenly. If you want to get an ideal surface as a result, then you should not neglect all the rules and recommendations of experts.
A layer of putty is applied to the joints between the sheets, onto which, lightly pressing, the tape is laid. Then another layer is applied on top and carefully leveled with a spatula. After the putty has completely dried, the seams should be sanded well with fine sandpaper or a special grater.
Not only seams, joints and places of fastening with self-tapping screws are puttied. It is imperative to finish the entire surface of the gypsum board!
Now you can begin the finishing work, the options for which are entirely your choice.
As you can see, covering walls with plasterboard is quite simple to perform and a budget option creating a perfectly flat surface. Using gypsum boards and profiles various types You can create unique design projects for premises. You can change the usual shapes and sizes of rooms in your apartment beyond recognition or country house. It all depends only on your imagination and patience.
By following all the above rules, you will definitely be satisfied with the result of the work done. It’s even more pleasant when it’s made with your own hands.
How to properly cover a wall with plasterboard? Which tool and plating method should I choose? We will try to briefly talk about this and other things in the article, so that even a beginner has no doubt that he can do it with his own hands.
First you need to inspect the scope of work, assess the scale and select necessary method installation
As you know, the walls of private houses and apartments are made of reinforced concrete, brick and wood. Drywall can be glued to any of these surfaces or a frame can be installed. The main criteria influencing the installation method are the volume of the room and the curvature of the walls. Covering the frame with plasterboard is considered the most optimal, but here the disadvantages should also be taken into account - the area of the room with installed frame will decrease significantly (the total thickness of the skin will be more than 5 cm). Therefore, if you are planning to renovate a small room, perhaps the best option would be frameless mounting adhesive composition. If the defects and curvature of the walls do not exceed 20 mm, you can safely choose it, i.e. Glue the gypsum board with gypsum glue.
If we have more or less figured out the mounting methods, then the question regarding the tool remains open.
Tool for the job
To cover surfaces using frame technology you will need:
- The material itself is plasterboard sheets.
- Pencil, knife for cutting plaster sheets, blades.
- Tape measure, building level, preferably laser
- Metal scissors
- Dowels 6x40, 6x60.
- Galvanized profiles CD, UD.
- Perforated hangers (CD bracket)
- Grinder, drill, screwdriver.
- Metal self-tapping screws for gypsum boards
- A cutter, or self-tapping screws (bugs) for attaching profiles to each other
- Planer for smoothing edges
- Spatula and bucket, gypsum glue (if we glue plasterboard)
- Everything for finishing plasterboard seams
Surface preparation
Covering walls with plasterboard with your own hands involves not only installation, but also preparation. Before covering the surface, you need to perform several preparatory work:
- Delete old finishing. Before you begin finishing, you need to remove all previous layers from the walls to the base.
- Treat the walls. This procedure is not considered mandatory. However, experts recommend priming the walls and treating them with a special antiseptic.
- Make preliminary markings. Mark boundaries above the floor and below the ceiling where the slabs will begin and end. Usually a distance of 5 cm is maintained.
Methods of fastening gypsum boards: advantages and disadvantages
As mentioned earlier, there are only two ways to cover walls with plasterboard: by gluing and mounting the slabs on a metal or wooden frame. To better understand which method is better to choose, let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
Frame method
The advantages of installing on a galvanized frame include: mechanical strength and reliability of the finished structure, the possibility of installation soundproofing material, installation of material even on the most uneven surface. In addition, the structure installed on the frame can support the heavy weight of the tiles. Therefore, this option can be used in the kitchen or bathroom.
The method of installation on a wooden frame has the same advantages as the method of installing gypsum boards on metal carcass. The only thing worth considering is that wood does not tolerate moisture well, so this installation method is not suitable for rooms with high humidity.
The disadvantages of the frame installation method include additional financial costs for the necessary fasteners and the complexity of installation.
Frameless method
Wall cladding gypsum board demon frame method a little simpler. It will not take away useful centimeters of your room and will not force you to shell out a tidy sum for repairs, but it will be less durable compared to frame technology. The disadvantages of this method include the impossibility of laying soundproofing material.
Technology for installing sheets on galvanized profiles
To assemble the frame, we take a galvanized profile. We run a UD profile along the floor and ceiling, which we fix with 6x40 dowels. After securing the starting profiles, we proceed to the installation of vertical jumpers (CD profile). The edges of the profile should face the wall, the wide side should face the room.
The profile is cut to the required size using metal scissors or a grinder.
We secure the profile with self-tapping screws specially designed for galvanized profiles. We attach the first main profile near the side wall, the next ones in increments of 60 cm. We set the distance from the center of the profiles, and not from their edges. We fasten the profile closely under the next surface, regardless of the distance between this and the previous profile.
To enhance fixation, it is recommended to use perforated hangers. The products externally look like galvanized strips with perforated ends. We give these clamps the shape of the letter “P” and fix them with the middles to the wall under each vertical profile. At the edges of the perforated hangers there are so-called “ears”. We screw them to the profile and check the evenness of all elements with a building level.
Sound and heat insulating material is laid between the wall and the plasterboard sheet. Special mineral wool for hl. After which, it is advisable to lay a layer of vapor barrier film.
If the height of the wall exceeds the height of the plasterboard sheet, you can add the missing part of the material from above or below by installing jumpers from the CD profile.
How to sheath a prepared frame
Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long. For quick and easy work, it is best to use an electric screwdriver. We tighten the screws until their heads are “recessed”. The fasteners are screwed at a distance, within 150 mm in the center of the gypsum board and around the perimeter. If one sheet is not enough, take a new sheet and cut pieces of it to the desired size.
Sealing gypsum board joints
Now you can start finishing. The technology is described in detail in the article. Using a special self-adhesive serpyanka tape, we seal the seams. We fill the tape with a special fugen putty from knauf. For finishing touch it is worth deciding what material will be used for finishing coating. For example, if you are laying tiles or other fairly dense material, you can simply caulk the seams and start laying the tiles. If wallpaper is glued to the surface or simply painted, then we coat the seams and screw holes several times.
We sand the surface with sandpaper and treat it with a primer. If the sheets will be painted in the future, the surface must be perfectly flat.
Frameless sheet installation technology
The first stage is priming the surface. We prime and wait for it to dry completely.
The next step will be preparing the adhesive solution. IN clean water add Perflix, mix, achieve the thickness of the solution we need. It is advisable to mix it thicker so that it does not flow down with the drywall. I will warn you right away that the glue dries quickly, so you need to work with it quickly.
A sheet of drywall can be easily cut with a knife and then broken off. The edges remain torn; here we will need a drywall plane.
Apply glue only to the back surface of the sheet that has been cleared of dust and debris. In the center and edges of the gypsum board glue is applied in dollops of the desired thickness. They are made at a distance of 25 cm. If you need to glue a whole sheet, then you can apply the buns to the wall.
We apply the plasterboard sheet to the base and press it evenly. For better fixation, you can use a rubber hammer. We apply a block of wood to the sheet and hit it with a hammer. You cannot hit the gypsum board itself with a rubber hammer, otherwise you may punch holes in the material.
Only after the glue has completely dried can you begin to seal the seams. The seams are sealed using the same principle as when installing on a profile.
Finally
Sheathing with plasterboard will not cause you much trouble if all stages are performed sequentially.
- It is necessary to prepare the walls (clean them of old coating, dust, dirt, treat them with a primer).
- Select the method of securing the material (frame, frameless).
- Purchase the necessary equipment.
- Secure the plasterboard sheets.
- Seal the seams with special tape, putty, treat uneven surfaces sandpaper and prime.
Drywall is one of the most economical materials for leveling and finishing walls. It is quite easy to work with, so even a person without experience can handle it.
Today we will try to consider such a process as finishing walls with plasterboard step-by-step instruction.
First you need to make a list necessary materials and tools. To work you will need:
- Plasterboard sheets;
- Drill;
- Fastening materials;
- Putty knife;
- Putty;
- Stationery knife, ruler and pencil;
- Level;
- Roulette;
- Screwdriver and screws;
- Wooden slats or metallic profile, depending on the installation method;
- Rubber hammer;
- Sandpaper.
There are several ways to decorate walls with plasterboard sheets.
Installation directly on the wall - adhesive, used in rooms with relatively more smooth walls. With this method of installing plasterboard slabs, more thorough preparation of the surface is carried out.
If there is a layer on the walls old paint it needs to be cleaned as much as possible and notches made with a chisel.
Any previous wall covering must be cleaned of dust, grease and other contaminants. If there is plaster, you should check its condition; if the plaster layer is unreliable, it should also be cleaned. 
The sheets are fixed to the wall using special glue. Glue must be applied to the sheets and the seams between the sheets must be filled with it. After this, the plates should be tightly fitted to each other and pressed well against the wall. Then you need to carefully tap each sheet with a rubber hammer for a tighter connection to the surface.
The adhesive installation method is considered the fastest and least labor-intensive.
Frame installation
Rack or rack mounting profile frame used to level heavily curved walls. This method is not advisable to use in small rooms, since installing the housing will take extra space, which will further reduce the area. 
But this installation option is indispensable when indoor insulation is required.
This is a more complex and time-consuming installation method, which requires dexterity, skills, necessary materials and tools.
Step-by-step instruction
1. Markings should be applied.
To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, you need to mark on the surface the place where the guide profile is attached, which is installed on the floor and ceiling along the perimeter of the room with a margin of 5 cm. It should be taken into account that this gap is sufficient for laying internal electrical wiring, insulation or sound insulation.
For the subsequent one, it is necessary to take into account that the angle between the touching walls is 90 degrees.
2.Install the guide profile.
First, you should install the guide profile on the floor and ceiling. Then use a level to secure the profile vertically to the wall. To do this, use dowel-nails or self-tapping screws, securing them after 50 - 60 cm. 
3.Install straight hangers, attaching them to the wall every 50 - 60 cm.
4.Install vertical posts.
This must be done in increments of 60 cm. If a more rigid fastening is required, then the distance can be reduced to 40 cm.
The distance between the racks should be made taking into account the width of the drywall, that is, a multiple of it. For vertical racks, you should take a ceiling profile cut to the required length. Then it is installed in a guide profile on the floor and ceiling and secured with hangers. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a press washer.
5. Laying insulation and sound insulation.
After securing all vertical posts, if necessary, you can lay insulation and sound insulation. This must be done between the vertical posts.
It should be noted that if it is necessary to hide electrical wiring in a room, this must be done before laying insulation.
6.Installation of drywall sheets.
To level the walls in a dry room, use ordinary plasterboard, 1.2 cm thick. It is assigned grey colour. Moisture-resistant drywall greenish or blue tint used for rooms with high humidity.
First you need to cut the sheets to the appropriate length. Then, leaning the sheet against the frame, secure it with drywall screws. The fastening step should be about 20 cm. The screw head should not protrude, but should be recessed into the sheet of drywall. But you also need to prevent the self-tapping screw from breaking through the cardboard sheet.
7. Puttying seams.
The fastening points and joints must be puttied. After drying, you should clean the putty areas and carry out the second stage - applying finishing putty to the walls.
This is necessary to give it final evenness. After the putty has dried, you can also smooth out any uneven areas. You can use sandpaper for this. Next, if necessary, the wall should be primed.
The rack frame is fastened in the same way as a metal frame.
Material advantages
It should be noted the advantages of drywall as a material used for finishing:
- Flexible (can be used in curved shapes, so can be used in various types premises, for example, for);
- Durable (does not rot or decompose);
- Eco-friendly (does not contain harmful substances for humans and the environment);
- Fire resistant;
- Simple and easy installation;
- Accumulates and holds heat;
- Lightweight (creates a small load on the wall);
- Perfectly smooth.
Useful video about how the entire installation process goes:
Using step-by-step instructions for finishing walls, you can get excellent result with a minimum of effort
Wall finishing with plasterboard - best option leveling any surface. This applies to both completely new buildings, where Finishing work putty (for example, office buildings), and old houses, even adobe. In the latter, sheathing gypsum board walls is quite simple. The finished structure does not create a load, is easy to install, and the amount of accompanying materials is minimal.
Thanks to gypsum board, a perfectly flat surface is achieved, which can be covered with wallpaper (no reaction to the glue) or even painted after grouting the seam joints. The strength of the plasterboard sheet is quite sufficient to prevent “breakthroughs” from accidental physical impact, installation of paintings on its plane, computer monitors on brackets and other equipment weighing up to 15 kg and fastener dimensions of 25*15 cm. Reducing the size of the latter leads to a proportional reduction in the weight of the item being mounted per 1 sq. m. GKL.
The above-mentioned benefits are only a small part of what plasterboard wall construction offers. But, before you start covering the walls yourself, it is strongly recommended that you familiarize yourself with the information below: find out which cladding method to choose, what materials, tools are needed and how to properly cover the walls with plasterboard!
What tools and materials do you need to buy?
For frame cladding you will need to buy:
- Plasterboard sheet (quantity and dimensions are selected individually).
- Ceiling profiles (PP).
- Metal guide profiles.
- Direct suspension.
- Profile extensions.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Dowels.
- Connectors.
- Construction knife.
- Metal scissors.
- Hammer/drill (depending on wall material).
- Roulette.
- Pencil or marker.
- Screwdriver.
- Level (for more accurate and faster work, it is better to choose a laser level).
- Other materials (serpyanka, putty, primer).
Sheathing using frameless method:
- paper perforated tape for seams.
- putty for initial processing of seams and screw heads.
- finishing putty.
- anti-fungal primer.
- dry installation mixture based on gypsum binder with polymer additives.
- special knife for plasterboard (clerical paper will not work).
- instrument for taking measurements (tape measure, level, etc.).
- pen-pencil.
Step-by-step wall cladding using the frame method
Stage 1: marking
It can be done either with a building level (manual, laser) or with a plumb line. Using the latter guarantees a more accurate result, but increases the duration of the work. First of all, you need to identify the largest irregularities that protrude into the room and transfer the corresponding points to the floor.
From the obtained points, and there can be from one to a couple of dozen of them, it is necessary to determine the one that is closer to the center of the room (the largest unevenness of the wall), and draw a straight line through it. The last one is the outline of the rectangle. All other transferred points must be located between the rectangle line and the real wall.
Next you need to draw a straight line parallel to the one mentioned, but already retreating 5 mm and extra bed for a “U”-shaped profile (pre-measure with a ruler). It is along this line that the profile structure will be installed. A similar one must be transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line.
Stage 2: installation of a “U”-shaped profile around the perimeter of the room
Before you begin, you need to cut the profile to the appropriate length. It is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling. In almost 100% of cases, craftsmen use ordinary dowels and golden-colored screws for quick installation of the structure. The latter are simply hammered into already installed dowels.
When working on surfaces such as wood and adobe, it is strongly recommended to use regular black self-tapping screws, which must be screwed in with a screwdriver or screwdriver.
Algorithm of actions
- on the prepared profile, drill holes with a diameter of 7 mm every 40 cm;
Profiles with ready-made holes are available for sale. If their diameter is less than required, it is better to expand them with a drill. Otherwise, the dowels may be damaged and poorly fixed in the wall.
- try on the finished profile to the mounting surface, observing its placement: front side on the drawn line;
A line should be visible through the holes in the profile.
- mark the holes with a pencil or pen;
If you have certain skills in working with profile structures, this step can be omitted.
- using a hammer drill required amount holes for the profile;
An alternative to a massive and not very convenient hammer drill can be a drill with an impact function.
- install profiles on the floor, wall, ceiling, using dowels and one of the mentioned types of screws/screws.
Installation of the profile on curved walls is accompanied by its deformation (wavy state). You can avoid this by making cuts at the top and bottom with metal scissors.
Installation of the main frame from a “C”-shaped profile
Consists of several stages and two types of “C”-shaped profile. Provided you have the skills to work with plasterboard structures, this is extremely difficult to deal with. That is why the further algorithm of actions will be described based on this picture.
A joining profile must always be present at the joints of plasterboard sheets. In this illustration it is shown in blue. There are 4 of these per one standard wall with a single window and door opening, subject to a sheet width of 1.2 meters (a generally accepted value among manufacturers).
There must always be an intermediate profile between the connecting cross members. Its quantity depends on the original idea. If a two-layer wall is intended to be finished with plasterboard, then the intermediate profile is installed at a distance of 0.6 m. In the graphic example, such a device is marked in orange.
If it is necessary to cover the wall in one sheet, two intermediate sheets are installed between the connecting sheets. In the photo they are marked in blue and are located at a distance of 0.4 meters.
The intermediate profile that needs to be added to is marked in purple. general design, if the window sill space is sewn up.
The installation of an intermediate profile (purple) above the window can be ignored, provided that the height of the remainder of the wall from the top of the door and window slope does not exceed 50 cm.
Algorithm of actions
- mount the profiles to the wall while maintaining the distance between them;
On walls made of wood or clay, it is better to use dowels in combination with long black screws.
- cut the “C”-shaped profile to length;
It should be 0.5 - 0.8 cm shorter than the entire distance between the walls.
Provided that the length of the wall is more than 3 meters, you will also need to buy connecting brackets for the profiles.
- connect the CD and UD profiles to each other;
This must be done while ignoring the exact perpendicular location in relation to the UD profile. The CD profile connects to the one mentioned slightly obliquely.
- using a construction cord or level, based on the flow condition of the walls, determine the gap from the wall that will remain behind the CD profile after its installation;
- fix the CD profile with the existing wall mounts.
The action can be performed using both self-tapping screws and rivets.
It is better to make the frame in parts, for example, conditionally dividing the wall into two parts.
Installation of gypsum boards
It's quite simple to do. The drywall sheet must be placed in a vertical position and aligned with the frame. This is done using wooden wedges. It is very inconvenient to cope with the task on your own, but it is quite possible.
It is enough to screw the adjusted sheet with two self-tapping screws, after which you can remove the wedges. It is necessary to screw in the screws with measured force. Their cap should fit into the sheet no more than 1mm. Otherwise, cracks are possible, which will appear over time, since the thickness of putty without a reinforcing binder on gypsum plasterboard cannot exceed 15-20 mm.
Instead of a screwdriver, a drill with a special attachment is also used.
If the standard sheet of finishing material is too large, then using construction knife or a jigsaw, it can be shortened and adjusted to the appropriate dimensions. It is also worth noting that when cutting with a knife, there is practically no dust.
These tools are also suitable for making non-linear cuts. This one, for example, at a 90 degree angle, will require a combination of a knife and a jigsaw. The latter, for any reason, can be replaced with a metal or wood file. It is better to make short cuts with a jigsaw, which guarantees filigree precision, and long ones - with a knife. Having made a continuous cut, it is very easy to break off the desired part.
Putty
It is carried out in several stages. The first and, perhaps, the main one is sealing the joints. Here you need to take into account that the putty itself does not adhere well. That is why it is strongly recommended to stick a reinforcing mesh - serpyanka. It is available for sale in completely different gradations and sizes, both in width and length.
You should not try to seal the seams that remain between the sheet and the floor or ceiling with putty. Putting flooring, for example, laminate, you can already compensate for about 2.5 cm. The remaining seam can be closed plastic skirting board, thereby providing additional ventilation in the wall.
The result of installation on the frame
Advantages:
- structural strength;
- the ability to enhance sound insulation, as well as hide junction boxes with wires, heating and sewer pipes;
- implementation of the project even at the most uneven walls;
- possibility of surface finishing of gypsum boards with tiles.
Flaws:
- difficulty of installation ( we're talking about about the frame);
- financial costs for related components;
- the whole structure takes up a lot of space (about 8-10 cm on each side).
Frameless sheathing
It is an alternative to the frame method. It has one significant drawback - finishing walls up to 3 m with irregularities up to 20 mm. Provided, if any, use only glue for installing gypsum plasterboards. Its composition may differ slightly, especially when it comes to moisture-resistant or regular drywall. Since glue is the only connector between gypsum plasterboard and the wall, you should not skimp on its purchase.
Provided that irregularities over 20 mm are detected, as a basis for the considered finishing material you can use separate pieces of it, pre-treated with glue on both sides.
Drywall can only be glued onto a carefully prepared surface: bare brick, aerated concrete, cinder block. It is strictly forbidden to perform work on the following surfaces: adobe, shell rock, whitewash. Also, before applying the adhesive to the wall, it must be cleared of accumulated sawdust. All work is carried out at a temperature not lower than 10 degrees. As with wallpapering, you should avoid drafts and opening windows for a week after completion of the work.
The glue is prepared 10 minutes before application. work surface. Ignoring the requirement will lead to its folding and reduced adhesive ability.
Important! Before starting work, it is necessary to remove all fossilized projections of cement mortar.
The glue is applied to the back of the sheet in the form of horizontal and vertical stripes. Immediately after this, the gypsum board is pressed against the wall. If excess joint material is applied, it will protrude at the edges. Simply remove it with a spatula and wipe the area with a dry cloth. If errors were found during installation, then before the glue dries completely, which is about 10 minutes, it is possible to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the wall.
Ultimately, it becomes quite clear that the choice of installation method depends on the current condition of the walls, as well as the amount of work on and preparation. That is why experts strongly recommend taking measurements and, only then, purchasing materials for the proposed design. It is also worth noting that cladding by gluing gypsum plasterboard onto wallpaper or old wall covering is not possible, much less subsequent finishing with tiles.
Video material:
Interior decoration almost always begins with leveling the walls. This can be done in several ways, the most convenient of which is plasterboard sheathing. This material is easy to cut and attach, does not require special skills and gives a perfectly flat surface. Due to the ease of installation, covering walls with plasterboard yourself will not take much time and will allow you to save a little.
The room is cleared of bulky objects, everything unnecessary is removed from the wall, wiring and communications are removed. The sheathing covers all unevenness and defects, so there is no need to level the walls, just check their integrity. Wallpaper or peeling paint must be removed and all cracks and crevices must be sealed with putty. After this, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.
To cover the walls you will need:
Step 1. Installation of guide profiles
The floor along the walls should be smooth and clean. Having retreated a few centimeters from the wall, draw a marking line for the guide profile. If all the walls in the room are sheathed, the markings are made parallel to each wall and connected at an angle of 90 degrees. Now a guide profile is applied along the line and screwed to the floor with self-tapping screws. IN concrete screed pre-drill holes for dowels.
The length of one profile is 3 m; for extensions, metal connectors and screws 9.5 mm long are used. For corner connection the end of the profile is cut on both sides, the sides are bent and screwed with self-tapping screws to the side edge of the second profile.
Next, vertical guides are installed on the sides of the wall: the lower ends of the profiles are inserted into the floor profile, aligned vertically using a plumb line and screwed with self-tapping screws at the base and to the ceiling. The ends of the ceiling guide are inserted into the right and left wall profiles, aligned with the floor profile and screwed.
Step 2. Installation of supporting profiles
To attach the supporting profiles, you need to make markings on the wall: strictly vertical lines are drawn from the ceiling to the floor every 40 or 60 cm. Along the markings, U-shaped brackets are screwed to the wall at intervals of 60 cm in height. TO wooden wall The brackets are fixed with self-tapping screws to concrete or brick using dowel nails. Now the supporting profiles are inserted into the lower and upper guides, aligned parallel to the markings and screwed on both sides with 3.5x9.5 mm self-tapping screws. Finally, each profile is strengthened vertically with brackets.
Step 3. Laying communications
After installing the frame, wiring is attached between the profiles and communication pipes are laid. Both wires and pipes should not protrude beyond the guides along the entire plane. To attach communications to the wall surface, special clamps and brackets are used. Particular attention should be paid to insulating wires and sealing pipe joints so that the drywall does not have to be dismantled to repair damage.
Step 4. Wall insulation
If the external walls are insulated, you can do without internal thermal insulation, leaving free space between the drywall and the wall. But even in this case, a layer of insulation under the skin will not be superfluous: such materials have high sound-proofing properties. Before laying, the materials are cut into strips, the width of which is 2-3 cm greater than the distance between the profiles. Lay the insulation as tightly as possible so that no gaps form.
Step 5. Sheathing the frame
Covering the frame with plasterboard
Drywall sheets are cut sequentially. To cut the material evenly, you need to draw a line on the surface of the sheet and cut through it sharp knife. Then the sheet is broken along the markings and cut through on the other side.
So, the sheathing starts from the corner:
take the first sheet and apply it to the supporting profile;
align the material along the edges and screw it with self-tapping screws 25 mm long to the posts every 30 cm;
the next sheet is screwed side by side, aligning the joints on the supporting profile;
for the top row, the first sheet is cut by 40 or 60 cm so that the vertical seams move, since more than three fragments cannot be joined at one point;
Before installing drywall, holes for communications are cut in the sheet where the pipeline exits.
The screw heads should go no more than 2 mm into the skin; they should also not be allowed to protrude above the surface. To control the immersion depth of the screws, it is recommended to use a bit with a limiter.
Step 6. Sealing the seams
Since plasterboard sheets have truncated or rounded edges, when joining adjacent fragments, indentations are necessarily formed at the seams. To seal them, you will need putty, a spatula and reinforcing tape - serpyanka. Mix the starting putty, cut off a piece of serpyanka of the appropriate length, apply putty mixture Serpyanka is applied to the seam and on top. Having carefully straightened the tape in the center of the joint, apply the putty again and carefully distribute it with a spatula.
The putty layer should not be too thick; it is better to apply several layers until the seam is completely level with the surface of the drywall. When the putty has dried, the joints are treated with the finest sandpaper. High-quality sealed seams do not have depressions or cracks and look like smooth white stripes on the gray background of the walls.
Joints on the casing external corners closed using perforated corner profiles. First, apply the solution to the corner with a spatula, distribute it thickly in height, and then apply and press the aluminum corner into the putty. The corners are attached to each other with an overlap of 5-7 cm. The putty mixture is again applied on top and a corner is formed using a spatula. Excess solution is immediately removed, and after drying, the surface is sanded with sandpaper.
Step 7. Finishing
To remove the smallest defects, drywall is covered with thin layer finishing putty. To do this you will need a wide metal spatula. They start from the edge of the wall: a spatula with the collected solution is placed against the wall at an angle of 10 degrees, pressed from below and moved upward with a sharp movement. The more accurate and smoother movement spatula, the smoother the putty will lie. If it doesn’t work right away, you can try it on a section of the wall. There is no need to press hard, otherwise scratches will appear on the surface; you should also not let go of the spatula while moving to avoid the formation of sagging.
If you plan to paint the walls, you need to apply 2 layers of putty, then the seams will not show through the paint. After sanding, the surface is primed, and then the walls can be painted, wallpapered or covered with decorative plaster.
Video - Editing secrets
Frameless wall cladding
There is another mounting option plasterboard sheets– without using profiles. This method is suitable if:
- the height of the wall does not exceed 2.5 m;
- vertical deviation no more than 2 cm;
- the walls do not need insulation;
- the room is dry and not subject to sudden temperature changes.
Of course, gluing drywall to wallpaper, decorative plaster or peeling paint is not allowed, otherwise the sheathing will not last long.
If all conditions meet the requirements, you can start working.
Step 1. Preparing the walls
Concrete or wooden base clean from dust, oil stains, seal cracks. If the walls are painted and the paint adheres very firmly, there is no need to remove it; it is enough to make small vertical and horizontal notches every 30 cm. Next, the surface is coated with a primer and dried.
Step 2. Fastening communications
Low-current wiring can be fixed directly to the surface, but for power electrical cables and communication pipes it is necessary to punch grooves in the wall. After laying the wires and pipes, the grooves are closed with special strips and the seams are sealed with putty.
Step 3. Cutting sheets
The lower edge of the sheathing should be 1-1.5 cm above the floor surface. If the height of the wall corresponds to the height of the drywall, the sheets are cut along the lower edge with a hacksaw. Next, if necessary, cut holes for switches, sockets, and pipe outlets.
Step 4. Attaching drywall
According to the instructions, dilute the glue and apply it with a notched spatula on the back side of the sheet with a wide strip along the perimeter and two stripes in the center. Having placed mounting wedges underneath, the drywall is applied to the wall, leveled and carefully pressed. Using a level or a long ruler, check the sheet vertically and horizontally, tapping it with a rubber hammer if necessary. Install the adjacent sheet in the same way, trying to join it to the previous one as tightly as possible.
Step 5. Sealing the seams
Thin seams less than 4 mm wide are sealed with one putty; for wide ones, serpyanka is additionally used. You can fill the joints with glue, removing the excess with a clean rag. The puttyed areas must be sanded with fine sandpaper and then cleaned of dust. It is best to fill the gap between the floor and the drywall with a waterproof sealant.
Now all that remains is to level the surface finishing putty, sand and wipe off dust. After priming, the walls can be painted, whitewashed or wallpapered - as you like.
Video - Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering
