The bath has an amazing healing effect. In this case, the material used for its interior decoration plays an important role. Wooden lining is ideal in this regard due to its naturalness, ability to “breathe” and have a beneficial effect on the human body.
Lining is considered a popular solution for finishing a bathhouse, as it is made from high-quality wood, well-dried and processed in a special way. For internal lining Only wooden lining is suitable for a steam room. But in other rooms - dressing room, sink, rest room - you can use other types. The boards are universal because they are suitable for finishing floors, ceilings and walls. The surface is perfectly flat and smooth, impermeable extraneous sounds, which tolerates heat well, as well as high humidity if soaked protective composition. Various communications and surface unevenness are successfully hidden under the lining. In addition, such cladding looks attractive and is considered an ideal solution for a “log” bathhouse. Features of choosing lining for a bath:- Linden. Such material is a priority, and its qualities were appreciated by our ancestors. The tree does not react to the effects of water and steam, does not change its structure and color.
- Aspen. It is considered a good analogue of linden, since such lining is indifferent to moisture and heat, but has a more affordable price. However, it is worth remembering the disadvantage of this breed: hidden rot may spread inside the wood.
- Cedar. The material is expensive, but at the same time it is of very high quality. Thanks to the cedar finish, the air in the steam room is filled with resinous substances, without releasing resin onto the surface, and an aromatherapy effect is created. It also runs cooler than others. Be careful: there are many fake cedar linings on the market at the moment!
- Pine. The material is cheap due to the ability of wood to release resinous substances under the influence of steam and heat. Therefore, it is practically not used for steam rooms, but it is an excellent solution for dressing rooms and rest rooms.
Remember that the lining for the interior decoration of the bath should not contain knots or other defects, because such a structure contributes to the rapid heating of the surface, which can cause a burn.
For the interior lining of the bathhouse with clapboard, make sure that you have the following tools at hand:- stapler with staples;
- jigsaw;
- perforator;
- drill with attachments;
- pendants;
- measuring instrument - plumb line, building level, installation plumb line;
- hammer;
- screws 6 cm, wood screws - 3.5 and 7.5 cm, nails 2 cm;
- triangle.
In addition to the lining itself, prepare a heat-insulating material - mineral wool, 4 by 5 cm timber, waterproofing material and vapor barrier, which PVC film has proven itself to be an excellent material. Since wood is sensitive to changes in humidity, it should lie indoors and adapt to the microclimate for 1-2 days.
The bathhouse must retain heat well, so using the inner lining it is necessary to achieve the effect of a thermos. To do this, at the first stage we make the sheathing for the insulation:- Use bars that are thicker thermal insulation material.
- Fasten the sheathing in the direction perpendicular to the installation of the lining, adhering to a step of 50-60 cm.
- In areas with uneven surfaces, place spacers made from the same wood under the sheathing beams.
- When attaching the frame to walls built of brick, stone or concrete blocks, screws and plastic dowels are used. For wooden surface Galvanized self-tapping screws are suitable.
- Protect your body, hands, and eyes with appropriate products to prevent the ingress of cotton wool.
- Place insulation mats in the gaps created by the sheathing. They are positioned from bottom to top, pressing each upper mat tightly against the lower one.
- Make sure that there are no gaps or cracks, as they form cold bridges through which heat will escape.
- If necessary, trim the top mats with a knife.
- If a log house was used in the construction of the bathhouse, then it should be taken into account that it is capable of settling. Therefore, it is better to carry out clapboard cladding after this, namely after 1.5-2 years, in order to prevent deformation of the material.
- Structural elements made of wood must be treated with a protective antiseptic.
- First, you should attach horizontal slats over the vapor barrier, onto which the material will be fixed. We install them in 60 cm increments, controlling the horizontality using a level.
- Make sure that the lining has adapted to the microclimate installed in the bathhouse and has lain there for at least 24 hours. We start work from the most inaccessible corner.
- Position the first board so that its tongue is in the corner of the wall and the groove is facing you, in a vertical direction. Remember that it is a reference point for all fixed boards in a given row.
- The plank is fixed to the horizontal rail using screws so that their caps are completely closed after the decorative corner is installed. The clamps must be inserted into the protruding edge of the groove. Nail them to the slats.
- Place each next board all the way into the groove of the lining that is already secured. To protect it from damage, adjust it with a mallet and secure it to the slats with clamps.
- It is possible that the last board will have to be cut to fit the width. Attach it in the same way as the first.
- Attach all remaining material and baseboards to the sheathing. In addition, all corners must be sealed. decorative corners using finishing nails that are copper plated. Thanks to the small cap, such fasteners are invisible to the eye.
- To ensure ventilation in the space under the casing and protect the material from water, there should be a gap of 10 millimeters between the lower end of the lining and the floor.
- When covering a bathhouse, remember that in the sink and steam room, the lining should be treated in a special way before installation. But it is strictly forbidden to paint or varnish this material. To protect it from mold, black spots and insect attacks, use a colorless antifungal composition made in water based. The lining is pre-sanded sandpaper to remove all roughness, so the impregnation will apply more evenly.
It is only necessary to sheathe the steam room and washing area in the bathhouse natural materials. Under no circumstances should you use plastic, as when heated it can emit fumes that are harmful to health. Also, do not use cladding ceramic tiles- This is a practice from Soviet times, when public baths used tiled walls. The ideal material for finishing is linden lining, but it should be noted that it is not cheap.
Linden lining
As mentioned above, the best lining for a bathhouse it’s a fake one. Compared to pine lining, linden lining is much more expensive, but has serious advantages:
- Does not emit resin;
- Has a pleasant smell;
- Doesn't get very hot, i.e. has low thermal conductivity;
- Does not darken for a long time when exposed to moisture.
The qualities of linden lining allow it to be used in areas of high temperatures and humidity, namely in a steam room. Naturally, in the steam room it is necessary to use linden lining not only for upholstering the walls, but also for making shelves. Linden shelves heat up significantly less than pine shelves.
Aspen lining
Aspen lining has many of the advantages of linden lining. It should be especially noted that aspen is quite resistant to rotting. Not many people know that aspen was used in Rus' in the construction of wells.
Unfortunately, the process of processing aspen wood is quite labor-intensive, which is why the cost of lining is unaffordable for many.
Cedar lining
The pine smell excites the soul! Perhaps, the best tree Coniferous species used for making lining is cedar. Cedar lining has even lower thermal conductivity than linden and aspen, however, it is quite difficult to find lining made from real cedar. Very often, under the guise of cedar lining, they sell cedar pine lining. The fact is that cedar does not grow in Russia. What we call cedar is cedar pine, which releases resin when heated.
Pine lining
Pine paneling cheap option for covering a bath. However, you should not use pine clapboard to cover the steam room - pine gets very hot, which can cause burns.
Pine lining is quite suitable for a washing room where the temperature is not high. You can also upholster the dressing room with pine.
Selection of lining: classes A, B, Extra
How to decorate a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands
If you wish, you can upholster the bathhouse with clapboard yourself. Below is a video created by comrades from Finland who know a lot about baths, or rather saunas.
Material for work:
- Laths for sheathing;
- Screws for fastening the sheathing. If the walls of the bathhouse are made of lightweight concrete(expanded clay blocks or aerated concrete), we recommend using screws for lightweight concrete Sormat KBRM, which have a nano coating, which will prevent them from rusting under the influence of increased moisture in the bath;
- Insulation;
- Aluminium foil;
- Aluminum tape for gluing foil joints;
- Lining;
- Nails (preferably stainless steel);
- Polyurethane foam;
- Staples for a construction gun.
Laying insulation and aluminum foil
As already mentioned, the video is in Finnish, but even without Russian translation everything is clear.
Ceiling and wall covering. Installation of lamps
On Russian-language sites they often say that the lining should be nailed vertically so that moisture does not accumulate in the locks of the lining. In relation to the sauna, this rule can be neglected, since the humidity in the sauna is less than in a Russian bath.
Please note that the lamp is positioned so that it is under the shelf.
Using foil foam and nailing the lining at an angle
To make the bath not just warm, but super-warm, instead of foil, you can use foil foam, which will turn the bath into an airtight thermos.
From the video you can see that the foil foam has a lock. Moreover, the connection of the sheets is foamed polyurethane foam, plus it is sealed with foil tape.
What kind of materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And it’s much more pleasant and familiar to the eye wooden panels. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the internal surfaces of walls and ceilings with your own hands wooden clapboard.
Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. Difference from simple edged boards consisted of the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, due to which maximum contact between adjacent panels was ensured. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.
Together with technical progress production has also stepped forward different types linings. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.
Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.
Choosing lining for cladding
Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to , humidity wooden products allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.
Prices for wooden lining
wooden lining
Marking and technical requirements
The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. Best options for the steam room - aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.
| Wood | Color | Properties | Photo |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aspen | White, acquires a silvery tint. The yellow growth rings are barely visible. | Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to even hammer a nail into an aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up. |
|
| Linden | Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte shine. | The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up little, and in the steam room it releases aromatic components that are beneficial to health. When in contact with linden wood in a humid environment, the iron oxidizes and rusts, and streaks appear. |
|
| Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar | Brown with a pink tint. | One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack. |
|
| Beige, brown with red shades. It gets darker with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin canals. | Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties during processing. It releases resin when heated, so it is not used for covering those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. It is not suitable for covering the ceiling of a steam room or it requires repeated heating of the steam room followed by removal of the resin that has emerged (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bathhouse, it is better to choose Extra-class pine lining. |
|
The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood is big amount knots heat up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.
| Class or variety | Description |
|---|---|
| Extra | Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even. |
| A or 1 | The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ panel long, non-through cracks - less than 9.5 cm long (the crack exit is directed towards the end of the panel) that appear when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There may be tarring and resin pockets 2 pcs. by 1 m.p. |
| B or 2 | There are many knots, of which no more than 2 can fall out. by 1 m.p. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long; hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pieces per 1 m.p.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting. |
| C or 3 | The quality is low. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work. |
The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.
All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.
| Profile | Description | Scheme |
|---|---|---|
| Standard | Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tongue being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation. |
|
| Calm or Kolkhoz Woman | It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of back side channels to prevent condensation accumulation. |
|
| Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed. |
|
|
| Soft-line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels. |
|
|
| Used for finishing external walls and premises. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the back side is flat or with channels for ventilation. |
|
Video - How to choose lining
Calculate the area of the internal lining
For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.
Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of the steam room lining.
- Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
- Area of the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
- Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
- Total area of the room: 6 (ceiling) + 7.5 (first long wall) + 7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m 2.
We calculate the area of the hallway paneling.
- Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
- Area two long walls: 3x2.5=7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
- Area of two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
- Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.
The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of the window and doorways, then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.
The price of lining is indicated for square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.
You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.
The most popular profile size is as follows:
- panel thickness 12.5 mm;
- panel width 96 mm;
- panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.
The following tables will help you find out how much square meters material in one cubic meter, count the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.
Advice! You should not purchase a lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the sauna lining will have to be completely or partially replaced.
Choosing the method of installing the lining
The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But more rational option for a bath it is horizontal.
Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:
When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if an accidental blow, fallen coal or high humidity will be damaged vertical board, you will have to dismantle the entire wall.
Installation of lining
Before finishing, the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.
Prices for PVC lining
pvc lining
Video - Insulation of bath walls
Video - Ventilation in the steam room
Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.
Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling
The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.
The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. Optimal distance between adjacent slats - from 40 to 60 cm.
Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.
The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.
We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check that the slats are attached correctly using a stretched fishing line/cord or a laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.
In some cases, when you need to do more low ceiling in the bathhouse, metal hangers are used to fasten the lathing.
In this case, first, hangers are fixed to the ceiling using long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.
It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.
Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.
Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling
There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.
To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.
Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.
On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.
We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).
Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.
Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.
If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.
When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.
There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the batten, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.
We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.
The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.
To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.
Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.
The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling
Installation of lining on the wall
Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls
We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.
We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.
The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.
After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.
For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting step the horizontal bars of the sheathing are attached using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.
Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.
It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.
Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls
If lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.
It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wall wooden planks a gap of 2 cm must be left.
To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.
We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions described above).
If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.
We drill holes for the screws, place the board on the sheathing (be sure to have the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, and check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.
We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.
Video - Steam room lathing
When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.
Interior decoration of the bathhouse, and steam room wall cladding in particular, has great importance. Without doing this, you cannot count on the durability of the structure itself. After all, heat loss, especially in a steam room, will not add to the pleasure of visiting it. Therefore, the presence of thermal insulation of walls is a necessary condition at .
All this fully applies to log buildings. But what to do if the bathhouse is log house, the material of which is an excellent natural heat insulator? Let's try to figure this out together.
This question is asked by many log bathhouse owners. Ideally, there is no point in insulating such a bathhouse and sheathing it with clapboard. After all, wood itself is an irreplaceable natural heat insulator. In addition, it has been proven that a steam room with log walls - steam from the stove-stove is reflected from them without a shock wave, creating a more favorable internal environment.
It is also important effective area steam rooms Whether we like it or not, covering a room will inevitably entail a reduction in its area. And financial costs have a certain, and often primary, significance.
If, nevertheless, you decide to insulate and sheathe the steam room with clapboard, then it is recommended to take into account the following thermal insulation characteristics walls made of logs depending on its diameter:
- 200 mm or more - no insulation required;
- 150 mm – insulation can be omitted, but warming up the steam room will take considerable time;
- 100 mm – insulation is required.
In any case, the decision is up to you. It all depends on individual preferences - some people like it traditional style Russian bathhouse, while others will like modern design.
Necessary tools and accessories
- Electric drill with a set of wood drills.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Wood saw.
- Set of wood rasps.
- Hammer.
- Hatchet.
- Mallet.
- Furniture stapler with a set of staples.
- A device for sawing bars at an angle.
- Level.
- Roulette.
- Yardstick.
- Carpenter's square.
- A ruler for drawing the outline of a log house.
- Plumb.
- Rope.
- Metal clamps for lining.
- Pencil.
Selecting materials for cladding
| Pine or spruce beams for sheathing | Sections 45 x 120, 40 x 50 | |
| Skirting boards and corners for finishing sheathing | Hardwood | |
| Windproof waterproofing membrane"Tyvek Housewrap" |  | Protection of thermal insulation from moisture penetration from the outside. On the insulation side it freely allows steam and moisture to pass through, while simultaneously preventing moisture and wind from entering the insulation. |
| Self-adhesive tape "Isofix" | ||
| Waterproof basalt wool “Rockwoll”, mats 100 x 600 x 1200 (thickness x width x length, mm) | Made from natural basalt rocks. Has a high environmental indicator. | |
| Glass mesh reinforced aluminum foil "Armofol" type B | Designed for temperatures from -60 to +200 °C. High coefficient of thermal reflection and low vapor permeability | |
| Temperature range: -30 to +150 °C. Has increased strength | ||
| Eurolining 14 (12.5) x 96 (thickness x width, mm) | Abashi, alder, black alder, linden, aspen. Divided into classes Extra, A, B, C depending on appearance(presence of knots, texture, etc.) | |
Covering the walls of the steam room with clapboard
Choosing a cladding method
There are two types - vertical and horizontal. In our example, the lining is positioned vertically. If desired, you can also orient it horizontally. In this case, there is no need to install horizontal slats (planks) on top of the vertical posts. In this case, the width of the racks must be taken in such a way that the thermal insulation wool is recessed by 20-30 mm relative to their longitudinal end. This will ensure ventilation of the air space between the insulation and the inner surface of the wall sheathing.
It is important to know that when horizontal view it is necessary to sheathe from the bottom up, placing the tenon at the top. This will subsequently prevent water from getting inside the joint grooves when it flows down the walls of the steam room.
Laying the first moisture-proof layer and vertical posts
- First, we make markings for installing vertical posts, starting from the corners of the steam room with a step of 590 mm between their inner edges. These dimensions will allow you to tightly lay basalt wool with a thickness of 100 mm.
- The decoration of the walls of a bathhouse built from logs has its own characteristics. The fact is that fixing the sheathing slats strictly vertically is not so easy. To achieve this, it is necessary to process the vertical posts from the side where they contact the logs.
For this purpose, a special copier is made, which is a thin ruler pointed on one side and holes drilled along it for a pencil. Having attached the stand to the log wall, the copier is passed along it and lines are drawn that repeat the profile of the log house. Further actions boil down to processing the racks along the drawn lines. It is enough to ensure a tight fit of the rack to the logs in several places with a step of 600 mm, maintaining a strictly vertical level. The length of the contact surface of 20-30 mm is quite sufficient. Don't forget to treat with an antiseptic. - We lay the protective membrane from bottom to top.
The top film is overlapped with the bottom film by 20-30 cm. We level and fasten the top edge to the protruding parts of the logs with staples using a stapler. We glue the overlap areas with self-adhesive Isofix tape. - Trimming protective film under the racks, which we install in the corners according to the previously made markings. Using a level or plumb line, set them strictly vertically. Fastening to logs is done with galvanized nails or screws. To avoid using long screws, we drill into the rack blind hole by 2-3 mm larger size screw head diameter.
- We stretch the rope between the outer posts in two places: below and above. It will serve to base the internal racks.
- We install all internal racks according to the example in step 4.
- Align and carefully staple the protective film.
Where necessary, additionally glue with self-adhesive Isofix tape. This operation should be performed with particular care. It is important to completely eliminate the possibility of air entering the area of open logs. - Note: during installation corner posts It is necessary to simultaneously lay thermal insulation wool in the corners.
The use of a bathhouse has long been considered not only a hygienic, but also a health-improving procedure. People who visit the sauna are less likely to suffer from colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases nervous system. Considered traditional wooden sauna: the walls of the steam room “breathe” in it, which contributes to improved ventilation of hot air.
Peculiarities
Today, there are many different options for interior decoration of a bathhouse - these include gas silicate blocks, brick, and magnetite, which is only gaining popularity. However, finishing made from natural materials, namely wood, continues to be considered the most suitable. Thanks to wooden lining, it becomes possible to create the specific microclimate and cozy atmosphere necessary for a bath or sauna. When planning to cover a bathhouse with clapboard yourself, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also carefully follow the rules for such finishing indoors.
Selection of lining and calculation of area
For quality work it is necessary to select the right material and calculate its quantity.
It is necessary to sheathe the inner surface of a room such as a bathhouse only with materials that can withstand:
- large temperature changes;
- high humidity;
- constant contact with water and various substances.
Board type and material grade
Today's market building materials filled with a variety of lining from many manufacturers. The lamellas are produced as Russian production, and foreign. Eurolining is produced with various options profile sections. Also, wooden lining can vary in the surface quality of the back and front sides of the board, the shape of the lock and its dimensions, the type of material and other equally significant parameters.
Most often, lining of several popular profiles is used.
- Eurolining, which has clear sharp edges and forms seams visible to the naked eye when covering.
- Softline with more rounded corners.
- Calm. The seam with this finish is almost invisible, because it does not have recessed shelves. It can imitate timber and have both quite sharp and smoother rounded edges.
- A lawnhouse, the front side of which is not smooth, but with various patterns. The design on the lamella of the lawnhouse is applied using figured milling on more expensive materials and using hot stamping on cheaper ones.
- Blockhouse (siding).
- Double-sided lining. Both the groove and the tenon of such a board are located exactly in the middle, so both sides turn out equally smooth - you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (the ability to “breathe”), so it is not very well suited for interior decoration of such wet areas like a bathhouse, swimming pool or sauna.
To determine the type of purchased lining, you can use the European DIN standard. The difficulty is that many manufacturers use various GOSTs and even their own specifications, so first of all it is necessary to look at the surface quality of the material itself, and not at the markings. All lining is produced using the same equipment and using the same technology, so the grade of material is determined during inspection after the completion of the manufacturing process.
- Premium (or extra). Almost perfect quality of the lining. Neither branches nor cracks are allowed on the slats. A light blue tint, small chips, roughness and imperfections are possible only on the inside.
- Class A. The branches on such a board should not be more than 1 cm in diameter and should not occur more often than once in an area one meter long. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, not through. It is advisable that the manufacturer putty them himself. All other defects are allowed only on the inside.
- Class B. Knots in diameter can be no more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. The presence of through cracks and open pockets is also allowed.
- Class C- this is all the remaining lining, on which blue spots and a large number of large knots are visible. There may even be gaps on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that lining of this class cannot be used for finishing walls.
Wood
A bathhouse is not only a steam room, but also a wash room, a dressing room or even a swimming pool. For each room it would be more appropriate to choose wood of a certain species.
Wood is divided into two categories:
- coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
- deciduous: linden, aspen and others.
One of the most popular material options for eurolining is linden board. Linden is quite durable, does not change the fiber structure for a long time and is resistant to various negative factors. The atmosphere of the linden bathhouse is full of freshness and cleanliness.
Aspen lining is easy to work with; time only makes this material stronger. If the surface of such a lining darkens, it is easy to return it to its original appearance by sanding the surface. Both linden and aspen are used for finishing the hottest and wet room in saunas - steam room.
It is also possible to use cedar for its finishing, however, due to the fact that cedar heats up very quickly, discomfort may occur when touching the sun loungers and walls made of this material. Coniferous trees are used mainly to cover the washing room or dressing room. Pine and spruce produce resin abundantly and, like cedar, have high speed heating, but using this material will save money and choose from a wide range of decorative linings. It should be noted that coniferous wood It is imperative that you remove the resin first in order to avoid a large number of drips on the walls.
Mounting options
There are two options for placing elements when tiling a sauna. You can upholster a wall with eurolining by placing the boards both horizontally and vertically. For each of the options, a certain type of frame is required, which is also made of timber connected to each other with ordinary nails. Each method has both advantages and disadvantages.
Benefits horizontal version are:
- reducing the chance of water getting into and stagnating in the seams, since the fastening is carried out with the tenon facing up, which allows the water that has already got inside to drain down;
- the frame for this method of fastening the lining is made vertically and allows air to circulate more evenly in the room;
- even the wood itself High Quality is subject to rotting processes, and the horizontal method of fastening the lamellas will allow you to replace only the material that is located below and is more susceptible to destruction, without dismantling the entire wall;
- When laying the lining horizontally, drying out of the wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.
Vertical finishing Saunas with eurolining are faster and easier to install than horizontal ones. This method also has its advantages:
- rapid flow of moisture along vertical seams in the wall;
- when using the tongue-and-groove system, the risk of water stagnation and destruction of material fibers from constant humidity is reduced;
- This finish better preserves high temperature premises.
Step-by-step instruction
Before you begin the sheathing itself, you need to calculate the area of the surface to be sheathed and choose exactly how the lining will be attached to the walls: horizontally or vertically. The floor and ceiling of the sauna can be insulated from the inside using cotton wool or another type of insulation. Any insulation must not only be correctly selected and installed, but also covered on top with a layer of insulating material with foil to avoid exposure to moisture. Such material must be nailed to the wall before installing the sheathing. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system and a stove, and only then can a frame be nailed to the walls on which the eurolining itself is attached. First of all, they install the sheathing and cover the ceiling with clapboard, and only then they begin to work on the walls.
Lathing
After all preparatory work you can proceed to creating wooden frame- laths. First you need to carefully prepare the timber itself. It can be either planed or left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber is treated with impregnations. First of all, the racks are attached - they are installed perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the beam in advance, since vertical and horizontal layouts can be combined on the same wall. The profile can be fastened with ordinary nails if the bathhouse frame is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall using dowels. It should be noted that the length of the beam needs to be made slightly longer than the length of the insulation nailed to the wall.
Next, the racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb line, tape measure or level. If the wall is not level enough, you can lay down an additional piece of board or use a hanger for the frame made of plasterboard slabs.
Ventilation
For the full functioning of a bathhouse or sauna, as well as for safety reasons, good ventilation is required.
The technology for its installation is as follows.
- Already during the installation of the sheathing, it is necessary to mark in advance those places that are intended for ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the second - no higher than 150-300 mm above the floor level. It is better if the second hole is located near the stove.
- For the air duct, it is better to use aluminum corrugation with a cross-sectional diameter of 100 mm. Holes for installing corrugations should be placed in easily accessible places in order to be able to quickly adjust the flow of fresh air.
- The use of polystyrene foam as a thermal insulation material when installing ventilation is strictly not recommended. Better to use non-flammable materials, for example, basalt (mineral) wool.
Insulation
It is necessary to dwell in more detail on the insulation of walls. The bathhouse is constantly high humidity requires special fastening and multi-layer insulation.
First, you need to lay waterproofing material on the wall so that moisture does not begin to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproofing to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the wall surface wooden slats. The wool itself must be laid between the frame (beams) of the sheathing with an overlap of 10 mm.
On top mineral wool it is necessary to lay a foil film, which not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the escaping heat into the room. Such a vapor barrier can be attached with a construction stapler directly to the overlapping beams of the sheathing.
You can also use more in a simple way and insulate the walls of the sauna using already foil basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining.
Installation
Fastening eurolining in baths and saunas is done only using a hidden method. Firstly, the hardware that attaches the slats to the frame gets so hot that it can cause pain when you touch its head. Secondly, the fastening metal can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the lamella. And finally, thirdly, these fasteners look too sloppy, especially when using very light-colored lining.
The lining of the steam room in the bath should always be done on the ceiling first. It starts from front door. The lining is attached either with nails or with the help of a clamp, since a small finishing nail will not be able to withstand the weight of the lamella hanging on the ceiling in this position. A clamp is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better preserves the lining board from damage during installation. The last boards are quite difficult to nail into a groove or place on clamps, so you can use a hidden nail without a head. When driving such a nail, it is very easy to hit the board itself and damage it, so you need to use a hammer. It is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm at the joints with the walls so that air circulates freely and the lamellas, slightly swollen from humidity, do not break each other.
The cladding of the walls of the steam room is carried out by analogy with the cladding of the ceiling. It is better to start from the corner, leaving a gap of 10-30 mm near the floor to avoid rotting of the boards at the junction with the floor. It is not worth joining individual parts of the lining closely when finishing a room such as a bathhouse. It is better to leave a small margin so that when swelling occurs, the entire wall cladding does not deform and “wave” due to constant contact with water.
The gap is made as follows:
- Initially, the lamella is driven all the way into the groove of another lamella already installed, small marks are made along the seam line of the connection of the two boards with a sharp object;
- the board is slightly removed relative to the marks made and leveled;
- the algorithm is repeated with each subsequent lamella;
- The joints of the lining will look more neat if you maintain equal indentations both on all walls and on the ceiling lining.
Using slats you can also sheathe doorways, cutting the boards to the required length. The openings themselves can subsequently be framed with platbands.
Window slope installed using a starting strip attached to a plastic lamella. In this case, the wooden lining is attached at one end to wooden beam, and the rest - to plastic. This simple option is suitable for metal-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate frame on the slope and lay wooden lining on it. This method is good for wooden windows, having decent depth. If the slope of the wall is not very wide, you can simply cover it with a wooden strip.
The finishing of the washing room is carried out similarly to the finishing of the steam room, however, the lower ends of the boards (or the boards themselves, which are laid near the floor when horizontal way installation) should be fixed at a height of at least 30 mm from the floor. You can also use PVC lining or plastic panels, which are decorated with wood to create a unified design. Tile and ceramics are also great alternative finishing options.
Installing a dressing room is no different from installing a wash room, but lining cannot be installed near the firebox. It is better to line the walls near the stove with brick or stone. Sheets of metal or other non-flammable coating are often used. The chimney pipe must not be connected to anything other than metal screen, fixed to the ceiling. It is advisable to wrap the chimney behind the screen with mineral wool.
