One of the problems of multi-story buildings is noise. That is why residents of city apartments make soundproofing. This event is quite an expensive pleasure if you order it from professionals. But if available basic knowledge about noise and vibrations, as well as minimal skills in performing construction work, you can inexpensively isolate a room from excessive noise, the source of which is neighbors.
Where does the noise come from?
Soundproofing a room does not begin with purchasing materials or installation work. First you need to find out what type and in what direction the noise source is located. Here you should be as clear as possible: it is necessary that the sound does not enter the room or that it does not go outside the premises. Also, perhaps, the question is much more global. That is, the room is completely soundproofed. The complexity of the work, as well as the selection of materials, depends on these conditions.
In order for this event to be effective, you need to understand that there are only two types of noise sources. This is the penetration of sound waves due to thin partitions between the walls and ceiling. In this case, all work is reduced to cladding with appropriate materials. Or it is noise of a vibration nature - it is this that creates a serious problem during insulation work. In this case, the noise source may be remote. Vibrations can pass through all contacting planes through facing materials. Therefore, in order to reduce these fluctuations, it is necessary to use special, dedicated and effective materials.
It should also be taken into account that sound can enter the room not only through ceilings or walls. Sound also effectively penetrates through windows, various communication wells, cracks or crevices. If this is so, then soundproofing the room may not have an effect if all these factors are not taken into account.
What materials to choose
Remember that these materials vary greatly in purpose, as well as in their effectiveness. Before purchasing them, it is recommended to study their features as carefully as possible.
Many people confuse thermal insulation materials with sound insulation materials. However, some of those products that are designed for insulation absorb sound waves quite effectively. Perhaps simple thermal insulation will be enough to create silence in some cases.
All materials designed to eliminate noise can be divided into absorbing and reflecting. To achieve maximum effectiveness, they must be used in combination.
Features of materials
Soundproofing materials differ in one feature - this is the direction. So, their structure consists of several layers. Before soundproofing a room, it is recommended to take into account the direction of sound absorption. And to increase efficiency, it is best to lay the material in two layers with opposite sides.
There are also elements for vibration isolation. They have absorbing properties. They even install it under different mounting structures. Often, foamed silicone or other rubber-based products are used for this. The effectiveness here depends on the thickness.
Soundproofing a room with your own hands
To make the room truly quiet, you can use plasterboard technologies. In this case, soundproofing products can be placed in the cavity between the drywall and the walls.
Many people believe that there are serious differences between ceiling and wall work.
This is wrong. There is only one technology. But to carry out work on the floor, it is recommended to use sound insulators of higher density. Then, after installation, they should be covered with any floor covering.
Wall work
First of all, you should inspect the walls for cracks, various grooves or internal sockets. If you find something, it is advisable to eliminate this problem, otherwise the effectiveness of getting rid of noise will be close to zero. Gypsum plaster is best suited for these purposes.
Now you need to build the frame. You can use drywall. You will need a profile for it. You can also use wooden slats. In addition, you should prepare fasteners that are suitable for attaching the sound insulator to the wall, the material itself, sheets of drywall and self-tapping screws.
Stages of work
The first step is to create a frame. But there is small nuance. Do not attach the profile directly to the wall. Professionals recommend moving about 2 cm away from the wall. Under metallic profile it is necessary to lay materials to absorb vibrations based on cork or rubber. It should be laid with maximum density. Then, after you have a frame, you can move on to the next step - laying the funds. If you need effective soundproofing of a room, materials for these purposes - mineral wool, glass wool or non-rigid slabs.
When you make a choice of a suitable insulator, carefully read the sound absorption coefficient. If the material is soft enough, this value will be higher. This means that absorption and sound insulation will be much more effective.
Now you can install plasterboard sheets on the profile using self-tapping screws. Well, then you can start finishing.
Price
Soundproofing the walls in a room won't cost too much. So, drywall has an average price of 90 rubles. Sound absorbers will cost from 60 to 400 rubles. Well, add here the cost of screws and profiles.
Ready for soundproofing
Today the market offers several such panels. So, if the wall is not very smooth, then it may be necessary to do lathing. Then the panels will be fixed to the grille. They are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove method. This is quite effective and beautiful soundproofing of the room. In addition, the installation of such panels is very simple. Often these products already have a decorative finish based on fabric or paper.
How much does it cost
Prices for these products average approximately 750 rubles. for 1 m 2. Their effectiveness and properties are quite comparable with the same mineral wool. Among the advantages is extraordinary lightness. For example, one panel weighs 4 kg.
This is suitable for those who want to complete the entire room. The panels can also be an excellent decoration for the interior.
Pasting the material on the wall is simple and inexpensive
This is the most inexpensive and easiest way. You don't even need mineral wool here. In this case, you simply purchase sound insulation in rolls. It is conveniently glued to walls using vinyl wallpaper adhesive. Such a substrate will cost approximately 1310 rubles. for 1 roll. This is 7 m2. But this is a budget and not very effective solution. The noise level in this case will decrease by only 60%.
This is relevant for those who rent a home and do not want to make expensive repairs.
Material for the room: which is better?
Acoustics experts say it doesn't exist. There are only designs for this. But we will still look at some sound insulators.
Zips systems
These are sandwich panels, as well as special facing sheets based on plasterboard. This panel is dense and soft materials. So, gypsum fiber is used as a dense layer, and mineral wool or glass wool is used as a soft layer. As for thickness, it depends on the specific model. There are special structural units for attaching panels to walls.
ISOTEX
This material is created on the basis of environmentally friendly fibers coniferous wood. These durable, extremely elastic and flexible panels will save you from airborne noise and vibration. Such products are decorated vinyl wallpaper or special linen fabric. They are easy to install and also easy to clean.
For ordinary apartment the best material Special acoustic panels are considered, but if this is expensive, then mineral wool will do. This solution is inexpensive and high quality.
Now you know in the room. You don't need any special skills to do this. Anyone can cope with this, and in return they will receive complete silence.
After a hard day at work, I want peace and quiet. But it is not always possible to enjoy your vacation - quarrels, screaming children, loud music or renovations at the neighbors' place can become an insurmountable obstacle to this. In order to get rid of unpleasant sounds, you need to make sound insulation. Modern materials allow you to complete all work quickly and without extra costs.
Peculiarities
“My home is my castle,” as the famous proverb says. In the modern world, it is not only a fortress, but also a corner of relaxation from everyone, a place where a person can do what he loves in a comfortable environment, get a boost of energy or, conversely, calm down after an active day. Silence, peace, tranquility, solitude - this is what a person desires when he is at home.
But it is not always possible to isolate yourself from the whole world in your home now. Footsteps in the entrance or corridor, the noise of the elevator, the conversation of neighbors behind the wall - all these sounds prevent a person from relaxing, resting alone with himself, distracting himself from everyday worries and troubles, and forgetting about his problems. The culprit is poor sound insulation.
In an apartment, especially if it is located in a new building, you can clearly hear everything that happens outside it. If external sound insulation somehow saves you from street noise, then thin walls between apartments make private life a public property. This can be avoided by soundproofing the apartment. Quality materials presented on modern market, allow you to perform work in short time and will not require much effort and time.
Modern sound insulation performs two functions - insulating and absorbing. It not only absorbs noise from outside, but also muffles sounds emanating from the apartment. This makes it possible to protect your privacy from outside interference and provides protection from the penetration of any extraneous noise.
Multilayer structures can soundproof an apartment. But they take up a significant part of the area, which is unacceptable in modern apartments that do not have large footage. Now manufacturers offer a large number of materials that do not “eat up” the area and provide good sound insulation. However, the small thickness of these materials provides excellent protection against noisy neighbors.
You can protect yourself from extraneous sounds using drywall, soundproofing boards or simple plaster. These methods are most actively used to soundproof an apartment.
Modern materials
The modern market offers a wide variety of materials for sound insulation. They differ in their composition, structure, cost, and effectiveness. But most often, sound insulation in apartments is carried out using the following materials, which have proven themselves to be excellent:
- decorative blocks;
- basalt cardboard;
- cork coverings;
- polyurethane foam.
In addition, you can use sound-vibration sealants, noise-absorbing mastics, special sound-insulating wallpaper or fiberboards. The most profitable option in terms of saving money would be to purchase rolled sound insulation, which is simply glued to the wall using vinyl wallpaper adhesive. Despite all the benefits and ease of installation, this method is more suitable for rented housing, in which you do not want to invest a lot of money.
Rolled sound insulation absorbs sound by only 60 percent, which is considered a rather low figure.
As for drywall, its installation requires additional costs, such as:
- purchase and installation of metal profiles or wooden bars for the frame;
- purchasing fiberglass or mineral wool;
- purchase of vibration-isolating material.
Using drywall is a great way to get rid of noise, which is called acoustic (that which travels through the air). It penetrates through small cracks, chips on the walls, pores of the material from which the wall is constructed. So additionally covering the wall with vibration-insulating material and plasterboard will significantly reduce the noise level in the room. And the cost of this material is acceptable, because it is approximately 90 rubles per square meter.
The price range for sound-absorbing materials is much wider - from 60 to 400 rubles per square meter. This range of prices allows you to choose the most suitable option For example, you can use ordinary felt as a sound-absorbing material.
Despite all their advantages, plasterboard structures have a significant drawback - they reduce the area by about 8 centimeters, so installing them in small rooms is impractical. You can use special soundproofing panels. They are more expensive than drywall, because on average they cost 750 rubles per square meter, but they have a ready-made decorative finish made of paper or fabric, and they can also provide good sound insulation with minimal effort.
Decorated slabs can significantly reduce finishing costs, or even get rid of them altogether.
There are three main groups of soundproofing materials on the modern market:
- hard ones contain pumice, expanded clay, cork or other porous material;
- semi-rigid ones are made from materials based on polystyrene foam;
- soft materials are represented by mineral wool, fiberglass and others.
Each of these materials has its own advantages. Of course, the main selection criterion is the level of sound insulation that each material can provide. Of no small importance is the speed of installation, the complexity of the work, the ability to perform the installation yourself, the cost of the material and how much the area of the room will be reduced when using it. Rolled materials have the lowest level of noise absorption. The noise level is only 60 percent. But this is a pretty good indicator, especially when it comes to rented housing.
Drywall and soundproofing panels provide approximately the same result. If there is a difference, it is insignificant. But the panels take up less space, require less effort during installation, make it possible to save on exterior decoration. However, their cost differs significantly from the cost of materials for soundproofing using plasterboard.
Device
Sound insulation using plasterboard in its design resembles a layer cake, which includes the following layers:
- cement mortar or special sealant designed to level the surface of the wall;
- vibration-proofing material that will help reduce vibrations, which will also have a positive effect on increasing the level of sound insulation;
- frame, which can be metal or wood.
Vibration-isolating material is needed in order to get rid of vibrating sound vibrations, namely those that propagate in a solid medium. Everyone is familiar with the noise of a drill, jackhammer and similar tools. These sounds are referred to as vibration noise. They spread through the walls of the building, which begin to vibrate quite noticeably. Next, the actual insulating material is used - it can be mineral wool, fiberglass or even felt. And finally upper layer“pie” is the drywall itself. The thickness of this structure can reach 8 centimeters.
Soundproofing panels often look like ordinary decorative panels, but still have some differences. In particular, this is their composition, which includes basalt or glass fibers. Cellulose fibers can also be used. Such slabs resemble corrugated cardboard, the void inside of which is filled with mineral granules, the base being purified quartz sand.
The soundproofing properties of panels can be improved by creating a multilayer structure. Simple mineral wool or fiberglass laid between the panel and the wall can increase the level of sound insulation several times.
The composition of the plaster used for sound insulation is no different from the usual one. This is the same decorative plaster that is used for renovation or finishing of premises. Of course, it will not be able to significantly reduce the noise level in the apartment, but there will still be a result. The fact is that noise penetrates into the apartment through minor damage to the surface of the walls - chips, cracks, loose finishing materials. Plaster levels the walls, fills in damage, and therefore prevents the penetration of noise.
Installation technology
You can install soundproofing yourself. This is a simple procedure. If you do everything correctly and carefully, then no problems will arise. If questions still arise, he will be able to answer them. step-by-step instruction, given below.
- Installation of sound insulation begins with leveling the walls. They need to be carefully inspected and any, even the most minor, damage - cracks, chips and others - should be covered up.
- The next step is the construction of the frame. It can be made of a metal profile with a lining of vibration-insulating material or from ordinary wooden blocks. The profile can be covered with polystyrene tape, which will additionally absorb noise. A simple chain-link mesh is also suitable as a frame for mineral wool, fiberglass or felt.
- Once the frame is erected, you can begin laying soundproofing material. Between the soundproofing pad and the wall there should be a free space of about 1.5–2 centimeters, the so-called air cushion. It will provide additional noise protection.
- Installation of drywall is carried out, which is attached to the frame with dowels. Decorative finishing applied as needed. This can be painting, whitewashing, plastering or varnishing, wallpapering, and more.
- Soundproofing boards require less costs energy and time. They are mounted and connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove method. If the walls are uneven, you will need to install sheathing. This is the only addition that will be required when installing soundproofing slabs.
In order for sound insulation to be as complete as possible, it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor, ceiling, sockets, engineering equipment(all kinds of pipes) and windows. The ceiling is insulated in the same way as the walls. As for the floor, a sound-absorbing coating is used for it. It includes special paper, fiberglass, foamed polymer or other synthetic substance. The material can be laid under screed or laminate.
To soundproof sockets, they must first be disassembled and removed from the socket, having previously been de-energized. A washer made of foam rubber, fiberglass or polystyrene is placed in the socket. The cracks are covered with plaster.
Modern plastic windows provide good protection from extraneous noise, and external sound insulation, even in new houses, is done quite well. But, nevertheless, installing additional insulation will not hurt. Street noise, especially in large cities, can break through any insulation installed by the developer and ruin your vacation. Therefore, soundproofing windows and external walls must be carried out especially carefully.
The installation scheme for soundproofing materials is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. If you strictly follow the plan, the work will not take much time and effort, and the correctly selected material will not “eat up” most of the area.
All work on soundproofing an apartment can be easily done by yourself. The main thing is to take your time, carry out the installation and installation of materials step by step, carefully coat all the cracks and discrepancies so that the repair gives the expected result - silence. This is not as difficult an operation as it might seem. And with the right choice of material, it does not require much time. Installation of the same slabs, for example, will take a minimum amount of time, even if all the work is performed by one person.
Modern materials can significantly increase the level of sound insulation in an apartment. Drywall is a budget option, which can provide good sound insulation. When using it, the area of the room, of course, decreases, but not by much. Sound insulation will be cheap using roll materials. They are easy to install, do not reduce the area of the room, and do not require much time.
Of course, you can use old methods of noise reduction. Carpets on the walls and shelves with books can also increase sound insulation. But the first of these methods is not environmentally friendly, because a large amount of dust accumulates in carpets and bacteria can multiply, and the second requires quite large area. In small modern apartments bookcase from floor to ceiling will occupy a significant part of the room, leaving no room not only for any other furniture, but also for comfortable movement.
Thin modern materials satisfy everyone necessary requirements, providing good insulation and not taking up much space.
The decorative component depends on the chosen material. If drywall requires additional finishing, for example, painting, wallpapering, then soundproofing panels do not need this. They themselves are quite good decorative element, thanks to the decor made of fabric or paper, which is applied to them during production.
Instead of mineral wool or glass wool, you can use regular polystyrene foam. It has good soundproofing properties.
A chain-link mesh or its substitute with cells of the same size can be used as a frame. They are attached to the wall as follows:
- first you need to drill holes in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 1 m from one another;
- plastic or wooden plugs are hammered into them;
- install the structure in the form of a layer cake: first, mineral wool (glass wool, polystyrene foam), then a mesh, which is attached to the plugs with nails or screws. The mesh must be well tensioned so that it does not sag;
- The wall is covered with a layer of plaster. The solution for it is mixed from cement and sand, sifted through a fine mesh. The proportions depend on the brand of cement. The higher it is, the more sand you need to take. For example, for one part of cement M200 take 2-3 parts of sand, and for M300-M400 - 1 part of cement and 4-5 parts of sand.
It is better to carry out plastering work in warm weather to avoid cracking and peeling of the coating.
Very good sound insulation inter-apartment and interior walls obtained by using gypsum boards. To do this, install two slabs parallel to each other on the cement mortar, and leave a void of about 5 centimeters between them. Wood is also a good sound insulator. Besides, wooden structures natural, environmentally friendly, they do not emit harmful substances indoors. You can take timber or boards 50–60 millimeters thick. They are attached to the walls in the same way as foam plastic and mineral wool, that is, holes are drilled, then plugs are driven into the holes, to which vertical slats 50–60 millimeters thick are attached, and boards are attached to the slats using nails in a horizontal position.
Wood-based or chipboards are used as sound insulation and insulation. cement bonded particle boards. They can be plastered, painted, wallpapered, or decorated in any other suitable way.
Plaster, which is also sometimes used as soundproofing material, depending on its variety, may or may not need decorative design.
If you use a special decorative plaster, then no additional finishing is required. Ordinary plaster does not always look aesthetically pleasing enough to leave it in its original form, without decoration or painting.
If you insulate the floor, ceiling, windows, sockets, all pipes, only then will the desired silence come to the apartment, which will not be disturbed by any extraneous noise. Soundproofing an apartment is a fairly simple matter if you approach it thoughtfully. The main thing is not to make mistakes that can ruin all your efforts. Such errors include the following:
We live in a world of constant noise pollution, and this significantly affects our emotional and physical well-being. If at work and on the street we perceive noise as inevitable, then at home we want silence and relaxation. However, even in own apartment Sometimes there are extraneous noises from the street and neighbors. Then we think about how to ensure the desired level of acoustic comfort in own home. We'll try to find one for you optimal solution this task with your own hands.
SHUT OUT FROM THE NOISE FROM BELOW
We must be prepared for the fact that we will not be able to completely get rid of the noise coming from the lower neighbors. The structures of multi-storey buildings are interconnected and inevitably transmit sounds along the walls and ceilings. But these noises can be significantly muffled - then life will become more comfortable. There are few ways to soundproof from noise from below. The essence comes down to laying porous sound-absorbing materials into the base of the floor, followed by laying the finishing coating.
WE SOLVE THE PROBLEM COMPREHENSIVELY
Nai best result Sound insulation can only be achieved with comprehensive finishing of the room, when we insulate the walls, floor and ceiling. You can soundproof the floor, but there will still be noise coming from the walls and ceiling. This is a rather difficult acoustic problem, especially in panel houses with thin partitions. In fact, you will have to create structures defined as “room within a room,” which will significantly reduce the area of the apartment and the height of the ceilings. In addition, even the best soundproofing materials do not cope well with vibrational (structural) noise from a working hammer drill and knocking on concrete. These sounds easily spread along walls, ceilings, heating and water supply pipes. You can deal with ordinary “airborne” noise from a loud conversation, music, or a working TV on your own.
PAY ATTENTION TO WINDOWS AND DOORS
The front door sometimes does not cope well with noise from the corridors and staircase. Its properties can be improved with the help of soundproofing sheathing, and the gaps between the frame and the concrete opening can be filled with polyurethane foam. Gaps between door leaf closed with tubular seals on self-adhesive tape. A more reliable option is to install a vestibule with additional internal door. The sound insulation of windows improves noticeably after installing double-glazed windows with big amount cameras and different glass thicknesses.
MAKING A FLOATING SCREAD
If your apartment is in a new building and you haven’t moved in yet, it’s time to take care of reducing noise from neighbors below. This can be done using a new screed, designed according to the floating principle. It will be separated from the floor slabs and walls of the room with soundproofing materials. The sequence of your actions is as follows.
First of all, we will cover the floor slabs with thick polyethylene so that moisture does not seep into your neighbors. On top of the film layer we lay sheets of extruded polystyrene foam 30–40 mm thick. This will be the soundproofing layer of the floor, but we still need to separate the screed from contact with the walls. The so-called damper tape, or foamed polyethylene, which is sold in rolls in stores, is suitable. Let's take the thickness to be 8–10 mm. We attach strips wider than the height of the planned screed to the walls along the entire perimeter of the room, close to the floor.
However, the screed still needs to be strengthened so that it does not crack. Typically, masonry mesh is used with cells of 50x50 mm or 100x100 mm, with a wire thickness of 3 mm. We lay it on top of the foam with cards and connect it with knitting wire. For strength, we install the mesh with a small gap above the polystyrene foam plane so that the reinforcement is inside the “body” of the screed. Then pour a cement-sand mixture 30–50 mm thick. This is quite enough to get a durable concrete covering, which has nothing to do with the construction of the house. Then the screed dries, you prime it and you can lay any flooring. Sounds from neighbors below will be reliably muffled by polystyrene foam and a massive concrete base.
A wonderful result will be that your neighbors below will also not hear the sound of your steps - the floating screed effectively dampens structural noise in the floors of a high-rise building.
Expert advice
As a soundproofing layer under the floor screed, you can use mats made of stone wool high density, which are used for insulating facades.
WHAT TO DO IF THE FLOORS ARE WOODEN?
WITH wooden flooring in houses old building the situation is more complicated. Wooden coverings will have to be dismantled to assess the condition of the joists. Perhaps they are in good condition, then you can leave them and you will less work. It is enough to do the processing wooden frame antiseptic and further strengthen the logs.
After this, we fill the space between them with expanded clay or mineral wool. Leave an air gap for ventilation. Now you can install the subfloor. We install the tongue and groove boards as closely as possible to each other and attach them to the joists with self-tapping screws. If the installation pitch of the logs allows, you can mount the flooring from 20 mm thick plywood or moisture resistant OSB boards– it will be faster and more reliable. Finish coating can be made with linoleum, carpet, parquet board or laminate, with the obligatory installation of a substrate.
Expert advice
Cork flooring dampens the sound of high frequencies (TV, stereo systems, barking dogs). Its honeycomb structure can reduce noise levels by up to 50 decibels. Cork sheets are tightly glued to level base floor, without seams. As a rule, they are already coated with a layer of polyurethane varnish and form a durable monolithic coating.
WE DO SOUNDPROOFING WALLS
First of all, carefully inspect the walls. Various cracks, holes and niches can serve as good conductors of sound. Shut them down gypsum plaster before starting soundproofing work.
We will cover the walls with mineral wool mats - it is cheaper than other materials and absorbs sound well. The mats are installed using a frame. There are several nuances in its design.
This frame cannot be attached directly to walls through which noise penetrates. We fix the profiles to the floor and ceiling through rubber gaskets. You can make them yourself from porous rubber or buy ready-made ones. tape insulation.
When using mineral wool in the frame and then covering it with plasterboard, you can reduce the sound load by 40–45 decibels, which already makes the neighbors’ conversations inaudible. In terms of efficiency it is equal brickwork at 20 cm.
HOW TO ACHIEVE BIGGER EFFECT
For maximum effect you need to tightly close all the cracks with cotton wool so that there are no voids left, and fill the cavities of the profiles with cotton wool or polyurethane foam to reduce the resonant transmission of sound.
It is better to sheathe the outside of the frame with a double layer of plasterboard with the joints offset by layers. The drywall should not touch the floor or walls - leave a gap of 5 mm, which must then be closed silicone sealant. You can use gypsum fiber sheets instead of drywall, which absorb sound better. Along the way, you will create additional thermal insulation for your rooms. It makes no sense to use polystyrene foam in soundproofing walls. It absorbs virtually no sound, and its high-density panels can even resonate in the frame, enhancing low frequencies.
To soundproof the ceiling, we recommend attaching mineral wool mats with glue and umbrella dowels (fungi). This is an option for later installation stretch ceiling, because the plasterboard construction complex, labor-intensive to implement and reduces the ceiling height by 170–200 mm.
There are other technologies for soundproofing an apartment. We told you about the main ones that you can do yourself. As you can see, this is not a difficult task at all, as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to understand how you can pay off extraneous sounds to prevent them from entering your home.
At first they just talked in a raised voice, then they started shouting at each other. Then, it seems, they threw dishes and furnishings and clapped as hard as they could interior doors. At the end, the neighbor loudly and clearly called his wife a complete fool ( in fact, not quite “round”, but I substituted a synonym so as not to shock you), hastily got dressed and clapped front door to the apartment, which was triggered by a shock on the floor fire alarm. More and more often, neighbors were sorting things out in the middle of the night right behind our bedroom wall. Each time I wanted to do one of two things more and more. Either go out and kill them to death, or make good noise insulation. After weighing the pros and cons of each option, I decided to go with the second one. It seemed much cheaper to me. And then one fine moment I found myself standing in the building materials department of a large OBI store on the outskirts of Moscow. Now I’ll tell you what I learned from the experts, and then I’ll show you how you can make an inexpensive slotted spoon with your own hands.
A little theory about sound propagation
Before we start building the Great Wall of China in our apartment, it's worth understanding some of the nature of sound.
1. Sound is a wave
If it hits a wall, it is reflected, but gives up some energy to the wall. The wall, being made of solid materials, is not an ideal sound insulator. Therefore, we can perfectly hear loud sounds from the neighboring apartment. However, the wall significantly weakens sound waves. If along the way the sound encounters another wall, then for the residual waves it will become an almost insurmountable obstacle. In other words, the sound from the neighboring apartment will hardly bother us if we simply go to another room that does not have common walls with neighbors.
2. Sound is a wave
Do you think I wrote it again by mistake? But no. Now I will say one more unpleasant thing about waves. If there is at least a small hole in the wall in the path of the sound wave, then the sound passes through it perfectly, only slightly reducing the volume.
A simple example: the TV is on in the room, try to go into the next room and don’t close the door. What happened? That's right, almost nothing has changed. Close the door. The sound will still leak through the crack under the door. Try covering the gap with a blanket - it's better, but not ideal. Not ideal because it's not airtight.
3. Sound is a wave...
Again? Well, what can you do if it really is a wave that spreads much faster and better over solid structures. Remember: when one of the neighbors starts drilling something, it feels like they are drilling right in your apartment. And it doesn’t matter that the renovation was started 8 floors higher or lower. It will be completely impossible to stay at home.
That is why a specialist from the building materials department immediately said that there would be no escape in any case from the slamming of doors, the crash of dishes against the sink, which is rigidly mounted on the wall, or the sound of closing cabinet doors, which are also hanging on the wall. All these sounds spread with lightning speed across all the nearby walls, floors, and load-bearing columns.
However, sounds such as conversations behind the wall, music from the TV, grumbling washing machine It's quite possible to tone it down a little.
To do this, we need to act according to the following scheme.
The first step in creating soundproofing: Seal the cracks in the walls
Our efforts can bring much better results if, before starting active actions, we carefully check our walls for the presence of through gaps to our neighbors. Sometimes the house shrinks, foam concrete blocks peel off from the supporting columns, forming cracks.
Don't worry - the house most likely won't fall apart. But various troubles can penetrate into the resulting holes. For example, if your neighbor smokes right in the room, then cigarette smoke will easily find its way into your apartment. I myself suffered from this until I found the unfortunate loophole for the smoke. Even if they get high now, the smoke will no longer reach me... at least until the house once again turns its back to the forest, and its front to me.
In addition to smoke, the sounds of neighbors' activities will penetrate through the cracks in the walls. I have an apartment behind the wall that is for rent. I've heard a lot of things:(. In modern buildings, audibility is excellent. Especially on the upper floors, where the walls are thinner. And then there are these cracks.
In a word - don’t be lazy, you need to carefully “walk” along the joints and check if there are any holes there. If there is, you can seal it with simple foam or sealant.
Step 2. Measurements and calculation of the amount of material
To avoid buying extra materials for sound insulation we need to properly measure the wall, or walls that require our attention. Luckily, I only had one problem wall with my neighbors. Here she is:
It was made from ordinary sand-lime brick, so it conducted sound perfectly. Before going to the store, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure, measure the length and height of the wall, or rather, all the walls that need to be worked with. Can be used household. It is much more convenient and faster to work with than with a tape measure. Especially if there is no assistant who could “hold” and “step on”. Moreover, some rangefinder models themselves calculate the area of the wall. A very useful thing for home handyman. I've been looking at it for a long time :).
It is better to write down the measurement results on a piece of paper, otherwise in the store you will painfully remember the numbers. As a result, you can easily buy more or less material required quantity. Both are equally offensive and inconvenient.
Step 3. Purchasing materials for soundproofing
Here everyone will have their own preferences. Let me show you what I bought.
Firstly, it is soundproofing mineral wool Rockwool Acoustic Butts:
A material specifically designed for sound insulation. Mineral wool fibers are arranged randomly, which makes the material an excellent absorber of sound waves. They simply get entangled in the fibers and gradually fade away, never reaching their destination, that is, your ears.
This same material has a couple of other excellent properties: it does not burn and does not “fall off”, that is, it retains its original volume for long years. It also retains heat and is not susceptible to fungus or rodents. In a word, Rockwool Acoustic Butts- this is exactly what we need.
The package shown in the previous photo contains 10 slabs of material with a thickness of 5 centimeters and dimensions of 100x60 cm. Thus, one package contains 6 square meters of material. Knowing the area of the walls that need to be insulated, you can easily calculate how many packages will be needed.
I needed two and a half packs. Naturally, I had to buy three. They cost about 2300 rubles.
In addition to the soundproofing material, we need to provide something that we will put on top of it. After all, we can’t just attach Rockwool boards to the wall and leave them exposed. We need something to cover it up. There are a lot of options here. Can buy plasterboards, Can Wall panels type of lining. I chose the second one. Again, knowing how many meters of wall you need to cover, you buy a certain number of packages of panels.
Finally, fasteners and tools: drill, screwdriver or screwdriver, wood saw and knife for “carving” Rockwool boards.
Step 4. We begin to make sound insulation
We tear off the baseboard and carefully examine the joint between the floor and the wall. If necessary, we treat suspicious cracks with sealant or, in particularly advanced cases, with polyurethane foam.
After installing the first row, it becomes clear where you will need to drill to install the first horizontal crossbar. We get something like this:
So we move from bottom to top until we hit the ceiling. There, some of the slabs must be carefully trimmed to prevent the formation of uncovered sections of the wall.
The fact that when working with Rockwool boards, especially when cutting them, a lot of tiny particles are formed deserves special mention. They can dig into the skin of the hands and even be inhaled through the nose, being in the air in the form of fine dust. Hence, it is advisable to work with gloves and a respirator. At least a gauze bandage wouldn't hurt.
Before you begin to attach wall panels to the resulting horizontal bars, measures should be taken to eliminate the rigid connection between them and the panels. After all, the bars are directly attached to the wall, involuntarily becoming conductors of sound.
Therefore, you can stick this kind of tape made of porous material onto the bars. It's a little like tape for sealing windows for the winter.
The most disgusting thing is to install the most last panel. We'll have to tinker. The more accurately you adjust it, the smaller the gap you will leave for noise to penetrate.
Now we put the plinth in place and refine the joints new wall with a ceiling and adjacent walls. You can use the same baseboard for this. I used wooden corners.
If there was a socket in the wall, you can bring it to a new wall surface or attach it to the baseboard, which is what I did.
How effective is this sound insulation?
As I already said, it does not save you from noise on structures such as slamming doors. Something more serious is needed here. However, now, when neighbors talk to each other, at least we don’t hear every word clearly. Yes, the sound still passes through, but it no longer has such an irritating effect.
There is something to compare with: this wall, bordering the neighbors, continues further, in the hallway. That's where everything remains the same. But the task was to make at least basic soundproofing in the bedroom. I think that I succeeded.
Unfortunately, modern apartments have a low level of sound insulation. This is why the private lives of individuals become public knowledge. Loud music, quarrels and screams, construction works, even steps in the corridor and the movement of the elevator - all these sounds can burst into your life and deprive you of the opportunity to relax and unwind.
You can get rid of this using additional sound insulation of walls. It is worth noting that it has two functions: soundproofing and sound-absorbing. The first will help you protect yourself from the outside world and noisy neighbors, and the second will keep everything that happens in your apartment within the confines of your apartment, so you can safely watch a movie or football game after 11 pm.
This effect can be achieved using various materials. Advances in technology have meant that you no longer need to sacrifice valuable square meters and downsize the apartment to improve sound insulation. And you don't need carpets on all the walls either. So how can you isolate yourself from a noisy world?
Ways to soundproof an apartment
If we are talking about sound insulation, then we must take into account the purpose of the room. The kitchen, bathroom and even living room can “make do” with partial insulation. But the bedroom and children's room are rooms of increased importance; here you need to achieve complete peace and quiet.
Experts have long noticed that sound is dampened in multilayer structures. But they have a clear disadvantage - a decrease usable area rooms. The thicker the partitions, the less noise penetrates into and out of the room, but also the more space this structure occupies.
The main ways to achieve silence in an apartment are: using drywall, finishing with plaster and using special soundproofing boards. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Of course, it is up to the homeowners to decide. Professionals recommend combining these methods, using them in different rooms depending on the required level of sound insulation.
Soundproofing with drywall
One of the most popular and quite simple ways- sound insulation using plasterboard. It itself, of course, is not an insulating material. This is why you will need fiberglass or mineral wool. When choosing a material, give preference to soft and semi-soft options, as they have a higher level of sound absorption.
First you need to carefully inspect the walls for damage. All cracks, chips and discrepancies must be carefully covered. You can use special sealants, or you can get by with regular cement mortar.
After this, you can build a frame for the future plasterboard wall. Experts recommend using a metal profile with a vibration-isolating lining, but you can make a frame from ordinary wooden beams. Don't forget to step back 1.5-2 centimeters from the wall itself to create an air cushion, which will also have a positive effect on the level of sound insulation. After installing the frame, proceed to laying the special insulating material. Make sure that the thickness of this inner layer leaves enough room for an air cushion.
Your “filling” is ready, you just need to hide it behind a layer of drywall. The sheets are screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws. The joints between the plasterboard sheets must be sealed with a special mesh and plastered. After this, the wall is ready for painting or wallpapering.
This method has one important drawback - installing drywall takes up at least eight centimeters of area on each side.
Soundproofing with soundproofing boards
Modern building materials can significantly reduce the amount of work in order to achieve maximum results. Technologies in the field of sound absorption also do not stand still. Special plates, which can be purchased in specialized stores, guarantee high level sound insulation with a minimum of effort.
The advantages of this material include its lightness, compactness and ease of use. With the help of such panels, even one person who is not a professional builder. The slabs can be cut to fit the features of the room, which also facilitates installation.
Another “plus” is additional thermal insulation. Since this material consists of wood chip or stone wool, the fibers also retain heat inside the apartment, which is especially important for houses with low thermal insulation.
The slabs are attached to the wall directly, without any additional frames. Special dowels guarantee the strength of the structure. The joints between the panels are covered with putty, which helps create a perfectly smooth wall. Prices for Izoplat panels are currently much lower than they used to be, as this technology is becoming more and more popular.
Soundproofing with plaster
This method cannot be called effective, since the sound absorption level of this material is much lower than all previous ones. However, plaster takes up the least amount of usable space and is used not only as a rough preparation of the wall, but also as finishing. In order to achieve the desired effect, you need to apply several layers of this material.
This method is ideal for residents panel houses, since sounds travel through chips and cracks, concrete pores. Plastering can completely rid you of these shortcomings of the apartment. Carefully inspect the walls and ceilings for defects. They need to be sealed separately. Professionals recommend giving preference to sealants if serious breaks and cracks are detected. After this a layer is applied ordinary plaster. It should be smooth. Let it dry and carefully inspect the wall again. Darkening, cracks and stains should make you suspicious. These places need to be carefully treated. After this, you can use both wallpaper and finishing plaster.
