If the heating of the home is carried out due to the arrangement flooring with heating, it will be much more comfortable to be in the rooms than when the heat supply is provided by a traditional radiator design. The underfloor heating system can be water or electric.
Features of the structural device
Despite the fact that installation of a heated water floor is expensive, it is cheaper to operate, which is why they prefer to install it more and more often. You can save a little on the cost of installing the system if you do this difficult work yourself.
To set up water heating, you need to lay a heating circuit from pipes through which the coolant will circulate. Typically, pipelines are laid in a screed, but there is a method of using dry installation. In any case, property owners will have to lay a large number of pipes with a small cross-section under the floor covering, having studied the design of the heated floor and prepared the necessary materials.
Due to the need to lay long circuits, water floor heating is mainly installed in private households. But in multi-storey buildings, which have stood for decades, the heat supply system is not designed for this method of heat supply.
It is possible to create water heating of the floor from heating, but as a result, with a high degree of probability, the apartment will be cold in winter or the operation of the centralized heating main will be disrupted for neighbors living upstairs or downstairs. Often the entire riser becomes cold. It is worth reading how to make a heated floor from heating in such a way as to avoid such problems.
The fact is that the hydraulic resistance in the design of a water floor is several times higher than that of a heating system with radiators, as a result of which it can prevent the circulation of the coolant. Therefore, obtain permission to install heated floors from management company almost impossible. Installation without approval is an administrative offense.
Two systems are now being installed in new buildings:
- one is intended for radiator heating;
- the other is for a warm water floor.
In such houses, apartment owners do not require permission, since their construction took into account the higher value of hydraulic resistance.
Before installing a heated coating system, it is advisable to understand its operating principle. To make it comfortable to move around floor surface, the coolant temperature should be a maximum of 40 - 45 degrees - then it will warm up to about 28 degrees.
As a rule, heat generators produce water within a minimum range of 60-65°C, with the exception of gas condensing boilers. They are most effective at low temperatures. From them you can supply coolant directly into the system pipeline.
If the water is heated by a unit of another type, then a mixing unit will be required, in which water coming from the return pipe is added to the hot liquid coming from the boiler.
Principle of operation
The floor heating system functions as follows:
- The heated working medium comes from the boiler.
- The liquid enters the thermal valve, which, if the threshold temperature is exceeded, opens the admixture of water coming from the return line. There is a jumper in front of the circulation pump into which a two- or three-way valve is mounted. When it is opened, cooled coolant is mixed in.
- Mixed flow through circulation pump goes to the thermostat that controls the operation thermostatic valve. After reaching the required temperature, the flow of water from the return is suspended, and if it is exceeded, it opens again. This is how the heating level is adjusted working environment.
- Then the coolant ends up on the distribution comb. If the heated floor is installed in only one, small room, in which there is one heating circuit, you can do without this unit.
- When there are several loops of pipes, it is necessary to ensure the distribution of the coolant between them, then collect it and send it to the return line. This task is carried out by the distribution comb, also called the underfloor heating manifold.
- If you plan to install heated flooring in several rooms, then the best option There will be a collector installed with the ability to adjust the temperature. There are several features here. Each room needs an individual temperature regime and in them heating circuits They differ in length, which means they transfer different amounts of heat. In addition, corner rooms have two or three external walls. Therefore, the amount of heat required for different rooms is different. This is achieved using a comb with thermostats, which is not cheap.
Thermostats differ in their functions, some of them monitor the air temperature in the room, while other devices monitor floor heating. All of them are controlled using servomotors located on the feed comb. These devices, in accordance with the received command, reduce or increase the flow area, thereby regulating the intensity of the liquid flow.
Theoretically, and sometimes practically, a situation occurs when the water supply to all circuits is cut off. As a result, the circulation of the working medium stops, the boiler may boil and stop. To prevent such a nuisance and ensure safe operation, be sure to install a bypass through which part of the heated water moves.
Installation of a water floor
Its main elements are pipes and fasteners.
There are two technologies for making heated floors:
- Dry- can be made of wood or polystyrene. Metal strips, which have formed channels for pipes, are placed on the structure, consisting of wooden plates or polystyrene foam mats. They provide a more uniform distribution of thermal energy. Pipes are laid in recesses. A hard material is laid on top - OSB, plywood, gypsum fiber board, etc. If desired, they can be mounted on this base. soft covering for the floor. You can also lay laminate, parquet or tiles.
- Wet– provides for laying in a screed. In this case, the heating structure consists of several layers and consists of a heat insulator, fastening elements (mesh or tape), pipelines and screed. After the solution has hardened, a floor covering is laid on top of a kind of “pie”. If necessary, a waterproofing layer is placed under the insulation. Reinforcing mesh can be used - it is placed on top of heated floor pipes. It prevents damage to the heating system because it redistributes the load. In this case mandatory element there will be a damper tape, which is rolled out along the walls of the room and laid at the junction of the two contours.
Both technologies have disadvantages, but installing pipes in a cement screed is cheaper. Despite the disadvantages, it is the one that is more in demand due to its affordable price.
Selecting a mounting option
Using dry technology to create water floor heating will be more expensive due to high prices for finished components. But they weigh much less and can be put into operation faster.
There are several reasons why it is desirable to use dry systems:
- The screed has a lot of weight. Building floors and foundations are not always able to withstand the load exerted by a heated water floor placed in a concrete layer. The thickness of the screed above the pipes should be at least 3 centimeters. Considering that their outer diameter is about 3 centimeters, the total thickness of the layer will be about 6 centimeters. As a result, the weight turns out to be significant, and often you still need to lay the tiles on a layer of glue. When the foundation of the house has been designed with some margin, it will withstand the load, but if not, then big problems will arise. If there is a suspicion that the base of the building or ceiling is not designed to support such a weight, it is better to use a polystyrene or wooden system.
- Low maintainability heating structure in the screed. Despite the fact that when installing circuits, one-piece pipes should be laid without joints, they can still be damaged if they are hit with a drill or if the pipe products burst due to defects. You can detect the location of the leak by the presence of a wet spot, but repairs will be difficult - you need to break the screed. In this case, there is a high probability of damage to neighboring loops. Even when everything is done carefully, you end up with two seams that will become potential sites for future leaks.
- The screed system can be put into operation only after the concrete has become 100% strong, which takes at least 28 days.
- If the house has a wooden floor, then when laying the screed on such a base, and even in conditions elevated temperature, the wood will begin to quickly deteriorate and the entire heating system will become unusable.
All of the above reasons are quite serious and therefore, before underfloor heating, it would not hurt to think about using dry technology.
Water floor materials
Most often, heated flooring is installed in a screed. Work on its creation begins with leveling the base, since without thermal insulation, heating costs will be high, and the insulation should be laid on a flat surface.
Therefore, first perform rough screed in the following sequence using building materials:
- A strip of heat insulation no more than 1 centimeter thick is laid out along the perimeter of the room - a damper tape that will prevent heat loss by heating the walls. In addition, it will compensate for thermal expansion resulting from heating of materials. You can also use foam plastic cut into strips with a thickness of no more than one centimeter or other insulation of a similar size.
- A layer of thermal insulation is placed on the rough screed. Best choice Expanded polystyrene is considered, and extruded at that - its density should be at least 35 kg/sq. m, which is enough to withstand the load. It has excellent performance and long service life. But it has a big drawback - it is expensive. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on several parameters, including the region where the property is located and the method of installing the heated floor. Therefore, it should be calculated in each specific case.
- Then, quite often, a reinforcing mesh is laid, observing a step of 5 centimeters. Pipes are tied to it using plastic clamps or wire. If you use expanded polystyrene, you do not need to use reinforcement - fastening is carried out with plastic staples, driving them into the material. For other types of insulation, you need to use a reinforcing mesh.
- Beacons are placed on top and a screed is poured with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters above the level of the pipes.
- Next, the finished floor covering is installed. You can use any that is suitable for creating a heated floor.
Pipes and their laying scheme
The main element of the system is pipes, usually polymer ones made of metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene. Their main disadvantage is their low degree of thermal conductivity.
When installing floor heating, the pipe must bend well and have a long service life. All these characteristics are distinguished by corrugated stainless steel pipe products, which appeared on construction market recently. It is not used often yet.
The diameter of the pipes for underfloor heating depends on the material of manufacture, but usually it is 16–20 millimeters. They can be laid according to several patterns. Of these, the most common are the spiral and the snake, but they have modifications that take into account a number of room features.
The simplest scheme is installation with a snake, but the coolant in it gradually cools down towards the end of the circuit and becomes colder than at first. Therefore, the area where the hot liquid enters first will be the warmest. This feature is used during installation - it starts from the coldest places, located under the windows and near the outer walls.
The spiral and double snake do not have such disadvantages, but they differ in the complexity of installation. In order not to confuse anything, you need to draw a diagram on paper and use it when laying.
Screed arrangement
To fill a heated water floor, a cement-sand mortar with Portland cement is often used. It should be of a high brand - M-400, but it is better when it is M-500. Wet screeds gain the required strength after at least 28 days.
At this time, you cannot turn on the heating system, otherwise cracks will appear that can even damage the pipes. Therefore in last years Semi-dry screeds, which contain additives that help increase the plasticity of the solution, have become so in demand. They significantly reduce the amount of water used and the time for complete hardening.
Installing a water heated floor will require a lot of time and financial costs.
The truth of the favorite saying of Generalissimo Alexander Vasilyevich Suvorov-Rymniksky “keep your feet warm and your head cold” is confirmed not only by army practice and folk experience, but also by modern official medicine. Traditional radiator heating is not able to ensure proper heat distribution in the room: warm air rises, but the floor remains cold.
Unlike batteries, floor heating systems allow you to achieve complete thermal comfort, improve the well-being of people indoors and reduce the risk of respiratory diseases. The heated air gradually rises upward in a continuous stream, cooling along the way. The temperature is equalized throughout the entire area, there are no drafts, uncomfortable cold or, conversely, stuffy overheated areas. Children and pets take great pleasure in sitting on the warm floor, and they know exactly where it is most pleasant to lie down.
Electric floor heating: pros and cons
Let's consider the properties of electric heated floors (ETF), including relative to other heating systems: radiator and water heated floors.
Pros:
Uniform and comfortable temperature distribution.
Moisture on the floor dries quickly, which is important in bathrooms, swimming pools, hallways, and winter gardens.
Placing a compact electrical cable in the floor does not require the same height of concrete screed as for a water heating pipe. The design is lighter, inertia is lower, heating occurs faster. The system responds to weather changes with less time delay.
More accurate and simple controls the temperature of each room or zone in comparison with the water floor. Electric heated floors, unlike water systems, do not require complex regulation and seasonal adjustments twice a year.
There is no danger of the coolant freezing. Unlike water, ETP can be used in country houses with periodic accommodation. By installing automation and remote control, you can not be afraid to cool down the dacha after warming it up by a certain time. If the country house has running water, partial heating is possible so as not to defrost; in the absence of people, you can only use the bathroom.
Warm electric floors are the most durable heating system, requiring virtually no maintenance during their entire service life, which is at least half a century.
When heating with electricity, combustion products are not released and oxygen is not consumed.
If a warm electric floor is used as the main source of heating, there is no need to allocate a separate room for the boiler room. Communications and control units take up very little space.
Electric floor heating can be installed without dismantling old screed and covering. Due to its minimal thickness, it is indispensable for the reconstruction of residential and public premises, where work needs to be carried out quickly, with minimal costs and alterations.
Investments in the installation of electric heated floors, both in equipment and in installation, in several times lower than in water heating systems of similar power.
At correct connection ETP is absolutely safe for humans and animals.
Even if the heating element is accidentally damaged, it is easy to find the exact location of the break and restore the circuit by dismantling a small section of the coating. If the water floor is damaged, the consequences will be much more serious.
Minuses:
Electricity cost includes the costs of its production and delivery to the place of consumption. The costs of the same amount of thermal energy obtained by direct combustion of fuel and produced by heating thermal elements with electricity will always be not in favor of electricity. It is cheaper to heat with wood and gas.
However, the amount of heating costs consists not only of heating costs, but also of maintenance costs. Modern hydronic heating systems also consume electricity, boilers require annual maintenance, and pumps and fans periodically need repair or replacement. There are no moving elements in an electric floor heating system, there are significantly fewer reasons for malfunctions, and they are easier and cheaper to fix.
Not everywhere it is possible to connect electric heating of the required power to the power grid. This is not a drawback of the heating system, but of domestic networks, which do not always meet modern requirements. Availability of working grounding Necessarily.
Discussions continue that supposedly electromagnetic radiation emanating from heating elements (cables or plates) can harm human health. Position of official medicine is as follows: the level of radiation generated by a heated floor does not exceed the values typical for conventional electrical wiring and household appliances. Acceptable by safety standards, but still unwanted, electromagnetic background is recorded only within a few centimeters of the heating cable. But this statement is true only for inexpensive single-core cable without protective screen, laid with uniform spacing. It is enough to place it at different intervals, alternating a small step (up to 20 mm) with a large distance (from 40 mm), so that the amount of radiation is noticeably reduced. And modern two-core shielded cable systems are recognized as absolutely safe from this point of view.
Like water heating systems, electric heated floors contribute reduction of humidity air in the house. This is not always a good thing, and is often harmful in our climate, especially in winter, when the air humidity outside is minimal. A humidifier, regular watering of house plants, and an aquarium will help optimize humidity. You should not place any type of heated floor under the keyboards. musical instruments(piano, grand piano) and furniture made of solid wood, the legs of which are closed with a blind base.
Once again about the economy
Let's return to the question of the cost of heating costs. Despite the fact that it is more expensive to heat a house with electricity, EHP under certain conditions can compete with gas. But in order to talk about the economic feasibility of using heated floors as the main heating system, the building must be well insulated. In particular, detailed calculations and long-term practical research carried out by Danish heating engineers and builders. As a result, they came to the conclusion that with effective insulation of the building envelope and a reduction in heat loss through external walls and windows by 2.5 times compared to existing standards, electric floor heating is economically justified even in gasified villages.
If we are talking about areas where there is no gas pipeline, the difference will be much more significant. Today at Western Europe Quite a lot of energy efficient residential and public buildings(and their share is growing), in which the main heating system is warm electric floors. To achieve the required characteristics, the thickness of the insulation must be sufficiently large. Thus, in Finland, not the warmest country in the world, frame houses with a combined thickness of insulation are increasingly being built 30-40 cm and ETP. Construction is not cheap, but investments in the heating system are minimal.
To calculate accurately the cost of heating a room or house ETP in our conditions, again, you need to know the heat loss. But, if very roughly, then in the central regions of Russia in modern house with average insulation, heating a kitchen of 14 m2 with a heating area of 10 m2 and a system power of 1.5 kW per day will approximately be spent 10 kW/h. At a cost of 1 kW/h 2.5 rubles - 750 rubles per month. This is consumption in the winter months; in the off-season it will, of course, be lower. But real costs will directly depend on the degree of insulation of the house.
As for the prices of equipment, it is determined by the type, brand, and area. The smaller it is, the more expensive the ETP is, because the price of a thermostat is the same for a small and large room. The price range is quite wide: from 1500 to 5000 rubles per m2.
Power selection
Additional heating. As a rule, it is used in city apartments with a central heating system. To create additional comfort, especially in the off-season, in bathrooms, kitchens and loggias, it is enough to make a calculation based on the value in 110-140 W for every meter of heated area. It is irrational to combine electric and water heating systems in one building if there is an individual heat generator (boiler).
Basic heating. Let’s make a reservation that an adequate calculation can be made by a heating engineer who will fully take into account all the heat losses of the building and accurately determine the needs for thermal energy. For a house with enclosing structures, the heat transfer of which complies with current domestic standards, in the central regions of Russia you can focus on average figures of 1 50-180 W/m2. The better the house is insulated, the lower the calculated power consumption will be.
What does a floor heating system consist of?
The floor heating system consists of the heating elements themselves and control: a temperature sensor and an automatic regulator (thermostat), through which the connection to the electrical network is made.
Heating elements
Heating elements: cables, films and rods convert electrical energy into heat. The latter are rarely used and mainly in industrial buildings, and films for floating floors. Often a separate group is heating mats, which are a special case of using a cable that, for ease of use, is pre-fixed on a flexible reinforcing mesh. It is believed that to achieve comfortable temperature there is enough space in the room for the heated areas to occupy approximately 70% floor area.
In turn, heating cables are divided into resistive, zonal and self-regulating.
Resistive cable
The most common and inexpensive. It is characterized by high speed and constant thermal energy of heating. The heating core of a resistive cable is made of a material (usually nichrome) with maximum electrical resistance, unlike conventional cables for electrical wiring. By overcoming resistance, thermal energy is released. The protective shield prevents radio interference and minimizes the level electromagnetic radiation. By the way, not all resistive cables are equipped with a screen; cheap ones do not have one.
Available for sale single and double core resistive cables. The conductor in the two-core is looped and the cable is connected to the thermostat only on one side. In a single-core one, you have to connect both ends, which complicates its installation, although it costs a little less.
Resistive cable can be used both indoors and outdoors for heating porches and paths.
Zone cable
Special case resistive, jumpers in the cable divide it into separate heating segments independent from each other. The cable can be cut to length. Zone cable is more expensive than usual and is more often used for heating pipelines.
A distinctive property of a self-regulating cable: the lower the temperature environment, the higher the degree of heating and vice versa. This is the only type of ETP heating element that can be used autonomously, without a thermostat. Due to this property, the cable is often used during anti-icing measures to warm up pipes, drains, and in places where it is difficult to correctly install a temperature sensor. The cable is two-core, the conductors have low resistance, heating is carried out in a polymer semiconductor matrix placed between them. Just like resistive, it can have a protective braided sheath.
safe from the point of view of overheating, it can be placed under furniture, laid under capricious coverings made of solid and laminated wood or based on wood fibers: parquet, laminate. The only negative is the high cost. Heating mats
The heating mat is polymer mesh, on which the cable is glued like a snake, almost always a two-core resistive one. The mesh often has an adhesive coating that helps fix it to the base. The price is higher than a similar cable, installation is easier.
Heated floor regulator (thermostat)
Without a thermostat, only heating based on a self-regulating cable can work, and then with certain restrictions. Other systems need management. The heated floor controller includes a temperature sensor, which sends a signal to the thermostat, which supplies or turns off power to the heating element. The desired heating temperature can be set manually or programmed taking into account the day of the week and time of day.
Floor design
The coating of the cable ETP should be a material good heat transfer: ceramic or porcelain tiles, natural stone. You can use linoleum, carpeting, laminate with the “snake” icon (designed for heated floors), but the heating efficiency will be reduced. If you want to install a warm floor under parquet that is suffering from drying out, you should pay attention to infrared film floors. Although, there are also options for cable systems for “floating” coverings: laminate, parquet boards.
There are two main designs of floors with cable electric heating.
Option 1. To ensure that thermal energy does not go down into the ceiling or ground, there must be a effective insulation. If necessary, from below - concrete preparation and waterproofing. If a warm floor is the main heating system, the insulation layer should be large enough: for floors on the ground - at least 10 cm(the more the better), by overlap - 5 cm. Insulation must be used non-absorbent and quite rigid: foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam or high-density foam. A concrete (cement-sand) screed should be placed on top of the insulation. Heating cable monolith in the screed layer. It is not recommended to make a cement-sand screed thinner than 2 cm; thicker than 5 cm, too, it will take too long to heat up the floor.
Option 2. Used in cases where the ETP is additional heating and it is not possible to arrange a full-fledged screed with insulation. As a rule, these are city apartments, where the thickness of the floor cannot be increased, and often there is already a screed. In this case, use a type of insulation that will fit in height. In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, the minimum thickness of which is 10 mm, there are also thinner ones: dense polyethylene foam, Teploizol panels, etc. Preference should be given foil insulation, or lay additional foil, with the mirror layer facing up. Insulation and foil are glued to the base.
Heating cable diameter 4-6 mm, this is enough to place it directly into the layer of tile adhesive during the flooring process.
If there is no headroom and significant reconstruction of the floor is not possible, the cable or mat can be laid directly By old tiles , veneer the top with new. The floor level will increase as a result by 2 cm.
Installation procedure
Before starting work, we recommend making a diagram for yourself of the placement of ETP elements: cable layout, location of the sensor and connecting couplings. It is very important to ensure that the cable is didn't bend over backwards, otherwise the integrity of the conductor may be compromised. The order of work is approximately as follows:
It is necessary to prepare for the installation of the thermostat and sensor: install a mounting box for the thermostat into the wall and make a groove (approximately 25x25 mm) from the box to the floor for laying the cable and sensor.
Prepare a section of the floor for installation, attach a special perforated mounting tape (sold separately) to it and secure the cable to it. The step must be calculated in advance by checking the diagram and taking into account the cable length.
If a mesh is used, roll it out over the base, cutting where necessary. The mesh is not attached; an adhesive composition is applied to it.
Next, install the floor sensor. It is brought from the thermostat into the floor between the turns of wire, having previously been placed in a corrugated tube-casing for electrical wiring. The end of the tube is flattened so that the solution or tile adhesive does not get there later. The protective tube is needed so that if the sensor breaks, it can be replaced.
Attention! The placement of the sensor in the tube cannot be neglected, as is our custom. Sensor failure is not such a rare malfunction. If you place the sensor without a shell directly in concrete, to replace it you will have to dismantle (hollow) a section of the floor. And if there is a tube, just pull out the old one and insert a new one, having first removed the regulator.
In accordance with the floor design, fill the cable cement-sand mortar or lay the tile on top, covering it with a layer of tile adhesive. If a mosaic is laid on the floor, the layer of adhesive for which should be minimal, you will have to make a preliminary thin-layer screed, also from tile adhesive. When it hardens, close immediately and before laying the mosaic. plastic film so that it gains strength and does not dry out.
Attention! When installing an ETP, you need to use only elastic tile adhesive, the packaging of which indicates that it is intended for heated floors.
We connect the cable through the thermostat to the power supply. A separate line should be drawn from the meter to the thermostat, calculating the cable cross-section according to the power of the ETP, through a residual current device (RCD) with a leakage current no higher 10 mA. At the same time, the apartment or house must have working grounding with a spreading resistance no higher than 4 Ohms. After maintaining the required period for the screed to gain strength, we test the system.
Attention! You can turn on the ETP no earlier than 30 days after making the screed or laying the tiles, when cement composition will gain the necessary strength.
- The heating cable should not be laid under equipment that must subsequently be attached to the floor: toilets, bidets, built-in furniture, etc.
- There is no need to place the ETP under kitchen or other furniture with a closed base. This does not apply to a self-regulating cable.
- If the warm floor is the main heating, it is recommended to make the cable pitch closer to the cold outer wall.
To ensure that the temperature in the room remains uniform in all areas, you can install heated floors. This method of maintaining heat compares favorably with the effect of radiator heating. Therefore, owners of houses and apartments are faced with the problem of choosing a safe heated floor.
Depending on the technologies used, the following are distinguished:
- water;
- electrical;
- infrared (film) heated floors.
1. Using water as a heat transfer medium is the most economical solution. It is not difficult to install a water floor under the tiles with your own hands: to do this, pipes laid around the perimeter are connected to the hot water supply system. The option is in demand in suburban construction, and according to existing standards, implementation in conditions apartment building impossible.
2. Electric is a good alternative. warm design, heating in which occurs using a conductor - cable. According to reviews, electric heated floors still allow you to save energy, for example, when they are systematically used in dachas. Modern automation makes the technology safe to use. To find out how electric heated floors are installed, just study the recommendations of their manufacturers.
3. Installation of film-type devices is easy and quick and does not require professional skills. For laying under tiles, it is convenient to use the material in thin mats.
Popular manufacturers
- A worthy example of infrared heated floors is the products of the Korean company CALEO, which are installed under almost any type of coating - parquet, laminate and others.
- The Russian company Teplolux produces IR heated film and matte-type floors and electrical cables with one or two cores.
- Warm systems from the French brand Nexans are used all over the world. The technology of couplingless connection of the heating element with a copper conductor, developed on its basis, ensures reliability and durability.
Consumers can buy heating mats and floors, as well as a heating cable, guided when choosing the information given below:
| Manufacturer | Model | Description | Approximate price, rubles |
| Teplolux | MH 1-155 | The thin warm mat MH 1-155 belongs to a series of designs with a single-core MINI cable attached to a carbon mesh. It has a power of 155 W and a heating area of 1 m2. MH 4.2-640 – 640 W, per 4.2 m2. Both models do not require a significant increase in thickness during installation. | 3 500 |
| MN 4.2-640 | 6 000 | ||
| CALEO | LINE 130-1 | Heated film floors from the LINE series are ideal for dry installation without the use of tile adhesive. LINE 130-1 has a power of 130 W, suitable for an area of 1 m2. The power of the second LINE model – 130-4 – is four times higher; for space up to 4 m2. | 1 500 |
| LINE 130-4 | 5 000 | ||
| Nexans | TXLP/1R-17 | Heating cables TXLP/1R-17 and TXLP/2R-17 (single and two-core) with a linear power of 17 W per meter are used in combination with a thermostat. Length varies from 17.6 to 194 m. | from 5,000 for 17.6 m |
| TXLP/2R-17 | from 5,500 for 17.6 m |
Before installing heated floors in wooden house, you need to decide on their type and installation technology. An important condition successful implementation is good insulation and alignment. Surface evenness will be ensured self-leveling coating. The scheme for laying ceramic floor tiles on warm self-leveling floors involves eliminating voids between the floor and the tile.
The price range for heated floors from the listed manufacturers varies widely. Thus, the cost of water and heated infrared floors directly depends on the size of the sections, and therefore the power and heating area.
- Film devices from the CALEO company of the GRID series with anti-spark technology: RUB 1,400 – 28,000.
- The price of the universal two-core Teplolux floor ranges from 2,500 to 20,000 rubles. Products approaching the most expensive category are cables with a length of 150 m and a power of 3 kW or more. Please note that the company warranty for this type is 25 years.
Electric underfloor heating is one of the most popular and comfort systems heating the room. It is used mainly as an addition to individual or central system heating.
How is the temperature distributed across the height of the room in underfloor heating?
When using a heated floor, the floor temperature will be 24-27 °C, at a height of 1 m from the floor - 22-24 °C, at a height of 1.6-1.8 m from the floor - about 22 °C.
What finishing coating is used for heated floors?
The final flooring must not only be durable, but also easy to clean and compatible with heating equipment. It is best to choose for heated floors ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware - materials that conduct heat well, increase slightly in size when heated and do not emit harmful fumes. The thickness of the tiles should be 8-30 mm.
You can use linoleum without a base and laminate for heated floors. The floating design of the latter compensates for linear expansion when heated.
Carpeting and rubber-based materials are good thermal insulators and therefore sharply reduce the efficiency of the underfloor heating system. Cork coverings are also not suitable - they do not transmit heat well and deteriorate from overheating.
If you plan to use parquet, you should carefully consider the choice of materials for its installation and finishing. In order for the parquet surface to heat up to 27 °C, the temperature underneath must be at least 32 °C. Poorly dried wood will deform under such conditions, and low-quality glue or parquet varnish will release harmful volatile compounds.
What is a heating cable?
The heating cable is the basis of all systems electric heating. Externally, the cable resembles a conductor designed to convert electric current V thermal energy. As a rule, a small part of the electricity is converted into heat in any wire or cable, but its magnitude is very small (1-3%) and, even so, measures are always taken to reduce it.
In heating cables, everything happens the other way around: 100% of the power must be converted into heat. After all, specific heat release is the most important technical parameter heating cables. In other words, a heating cable is a heating element made using cable technology.
What types of heating cables are there?
Main types of heating cables:
Resistive;
Self-regulating;
Zonal;
Armored.
What are resistive cables?
In such cables, thermal energy is released by the heating core. The latter is isolated by screens and protective shells.
What are the advantages of using resistive cables?
Such cables are cheaper than other types, and their installation is simple and takes little time.
What is the disadvantage of resistive cables?
The main disadvantage of such cables is the same heat transfer from all its parts.
What is the design of resistive cables?
Resistive cables can be single-core (with one heating core) or double-core (with one heating and another connecting core) design.
What is the difference between connecting a single-core and two-core cable?
The section with a single-core cable is connected from both ends, and the section with a two-core cable is connected only from one end. In this case, a plug is installed at the opposite end, inside of which there are heating and connecting cores.
What are self-regulating cables?
In self-regulating cables, heat dissipation can vary along the entire length. Thus, as the temperature rises, the resistance increases and the heat dissipation decreases. It turns out that each section of the cable adapts to its surrounding conditions, so the cable does not overheat and does not burn out.
The design of the self-regulating cable is protected by electrically insulating sheaths and screens. As a rule, when using such a cable, control equipment is not needed.
What are zone cables?
The fuel-generating element of such cables is a wire superimposed in the form of a spiral on two insulated current-carrying cores, made of a high-resistance alloy. Since the pitch of connecting the spiral with similar conductors is approximately 1 m, zones connected in parallel are formed.
Zone cables are similar to resistive cables, but have the same advantage as self-regulating - knowing the location of the zone contacts, the cables can be cut on site, thereby reducing material consumption. The zonal cable structure is surrounded by insulation, shields and protective sheaths. The cable is connected at one end.
What are armored cables?
In such cables, the heat-generating element is a metal core. For reliable mechanical protection and increased linear power, the cable is surrounded by double-layer armor made of galvanized steel wire.
Armored cable is usually used in heating systems for steps, ramps and other open areas. They put him in concrete screed.
How to choose a cable of the required power?
Before purchasing a cable, you need to determine the system power per 1 m2:
- loggias and balconies - 200 W/m2;
- bathroom and toilet - 180 W/m2;
- entrance hall, corridor, kitchen - 150 W/m2; ~ bedroom and living room - 100-150 W/m2. Most cable manufacturers create a table
by which, depending on the type of premises, the consumer can determine the required specific power.
To do this, you need to calculate the area on which the cable will be laid - you need to subtract the area of furniture and plumbing from the area of the room.
The resulting difference must be multiplied by the selected specific power - the required cable power for the entire room will be obtained. Let's assume the cable power is 540 W. Using the table, select a cable whose power is close to the received one, for example, a cable with a power of 600 W and a length of 24 m.
How to make couplings yourself?
To make your own couplings, you will need power wires, a set of couplings and a heating cable. The coupling is a thin metal tube, on one side of which the corresponding end of the heating cable is inserted, and into the other - the power wire. After assembly, the ends of the coupling are crimped with pliers.
To make such a connection yourself, first remove a small section of insulation from the cable and power wire, then take a heat-shrinkable tube from the connecting kit and put it on the power wire so that its length is 2-3 cm longer than the length of the metal tube.
Next, one of the exposed wires is inserted into the tube and crimped using pliers. At the finished connection, tighten the heat-shrink tube. Since it will shrink in size when heated, for high-quality insulation it is heated with matches, a lighter or a special hair dryer. The same actions are performed with the adjacent core and braided cable.
After all three wires are insulated at the naked-whip connection, larger diameter heat-shrink tubing is placed over the power wires and heating cable and heated again.
How are cable sections used?
Cable sections are finished products in which a piece of cable of a certain length with a so-called cold end (supply wire) is used with a special coupling. The cold end is designed to connect the so-called hot (heating) cable to the electrical network.
The length of the cold ends is fixed and for all manufacturers it is 0.75-3 m.
The ends of the supply wires are placed in a junction box, in which they are connected to other wires supplying electricity.
It is worth noting that the service life of the entire section (it should be at least 15-20 years) depends on the reliability of the couplings connecting the cold wires and the cable, which constantly changes temperature.
How to use cable reels?
The cable, supplied in coils (drums), is cut directly on site. To connect power and other heating sections, heat-shrinkable couplings are used. In this case, it is impossible to make segments of arbitrary length, since the heat generation power directly depends on the size of the segment.
Why do you need a thermostat?
The underfloor heating system must include a thermostat with a floor temperature sensor, designed to control the operation of the cables. As a rule, apartments use a simple thermostat with manual adjustment of the floor heating mode. In this case, the temperature sensor is placed in a tube between the turns of the cable or mounted in a screed.
In underfloor heating systems with a power of more than 1 kW, a thermostat with programming functions is used. Using such a device, you can set a daily or weekly program to maintain a given floor temperature and at the same time save energy (more than 30%).
The thermostat is installed on the wall together with an electrical switch or mounted on a BSh-rail in the electrical panel.
What should you pay attention to when choosing a thermostat?
When choosing a thermostat, you should pay attention to the following points:
- programmable models so that in the absence of residents, heated floors operate in energy-saving mode;
- the presence of not only a built-in, but also a remote temperature sensor;
- device power limit;
- self-diagnosis function.
Which Additional materials will you need to install heated floors?
In addition to heating cables and a thermostat, you will need mounting tape and corrugated tube. The latter protects the floor temperature sensor and provides access to it. Mounting tape is necessary to secure the heating section to the floor surface.
Why is thermal insulation needed?
Thermal insulation increases the efficiency of underfloor heating and reduces energy consumption because it reduces heat loss.
What material for thermal insulation is better to choose?
Electrically heated floors are easy to install in a private house or city apartment yourself. It is enough to understand the technology of their installation and take into account the advice of specialists.
Features of warm electric floors - pros and cons
Electric floor heating involves the use of a special cable, which is laid according to a certain pattern on the floor base and then connected to the household electricity supply network. The design of such a system does not require installing pipes and connecting them to heating. This distinguishes electrically heated designs from common water ones. The electric heating systems we are interested in have the following advantages:
- 1. Possibility of installation at any time of the year in any room.
- 2. Regulation of the system using modern electronics, which automatically turns off the heated floor in the event of an emergency.
- 3. Guaranteed heat supply to required areas rooms.
- 4. Possibility of installation in non-residential premises (garages, balconies, etc.).
Electric underfloor heating can be used as an additional and main heating system. But only subject to proper installation in accordance with the requirements for working with electrical installations.
The disadvantage of electric floors is the need for constant monitoring of their functioning. This problem is solved by connecting electronic devices that automatically regulate the operation of the heated floor. If such devices are not installed, the comfort and safety of using the electric heating system is reduced. In addition, the type of heating under consideration requires relatively large financial costs for the purchase of the required equipment, its proper installation and subsequent maintenance (it should be done regularly) during operation.
Many consumers refuse to use heated floors, worrying about high electricity consumption. One thing can be said here. Electricity bills, of course, will be quite high. But it is quite possible to reduce costs (and significantly) by installing the already mentioned auto control systems. Save on electronic devices no need. The costs for them will pay off quickly.
Installation cable – which one to choose?
Warm electric floors can be installed using two different types of cables:
- resistive;
- self-regulating.
Products of the first type have a core with high electrical resistance. When current passes through it, it is converted into thermal energy used to heat the room. The specified core is necessarily enclosed in insulating material, which reduces the risk of electric shock. Additionally, a metal braid is placed on the insulation, which plays the role of a protective screen and grounding element.
Single-core resistive cables are the easiest way to install an electric heating system. They should be installed over the entire area of the floor base and connected to electricity at both ends of the wire used. Essentially, this means that the cable installation must be done in a loop. Single-core systems are quite reliable in operation. But when they are used, an electromagnetic field is formed in the wire. The metal braid smoothes out this process. Unfortunately, it cannot completely exclude the possibility of a field appearing. Therefore, it is undesirable to use such systems in residential premises.
If you want to have an absolutely safe heated floor at your disposal, it is better to opt for two-core cables. They have an additional conductive core. It is located between the heating wires. When using such cables, the risk of electromagnetic fields is reduced to zero.
Resistive wires with one or two cores must be embedded in the concrete floor screed as carefully as possible. Otherwise, the cables may overheat and damage the entire heating system.
Self-regulating wires will provide protection against overheating and breakage
Problems with overheating and breakdown of heated floors do not arise if self-regulating wires are used. They can be used for installation under tiles and any others finishing coatings. In a self-regulating cable, the main element is a special matrix of polymer material. It guarantees the operability of the system as a whole when its individual sections overheat. Due to this, the durability of electric heating increases 5–6 times. True, the cost of self-regulating wires is much higher than the price of resistive cables.
Calculation of system power - we’ll do it ourselves
The power characteristics of the heating cable are easily calculated. It's done like this. You need to multiply the floor area (measured in sq. m.) by the value of the installed power (in watts). The last value depends on the type of flooring. If the cable is installed for a floor under tiles, and the system will be used as an additional heating source, the recommended value of the installed power is 130–150 W/sq. m. In cases where electric heating for tiles is planned as the main one, this value is 180–200 W/sq. m.
The desired power affects the wire laying pitch
Power values for other types of coatings are given below:
- granite slabs – 210–220 (additional system) and 260–300 (main);
- porcelain stoneware – 160–170 and 200–220, respectively;
- parquet board, carpet, laminate – 120–150;
- linoleum – 130–150.
Under decorative coverings from linoleum, laminated and parquet boards, carpet cable is installed exclusively to create an additional (auxiliary) heating system. As the main heat source, the heating cable can perform its functions exclusively under tile materials.
Also, installation of an electrical cable (single- or two-core) requires calculation of the wire laying pitch. There are no problems here at all. It is necessary to divide the area of the room that will be heated by the length of the cable. Important point! The area of the room is understood as that part of the surface of the room that is not filled with furniture. There is no need to heat the floors under sofas and massive cabinets.
We install electric heating using understandable technology
When all calculations have been completed and the cable has been purchased the right amount, installation can begin electrical system heating The do-it-yourself work plan will be as follows:
- 1. Select a small area on the wall in the room (distance from the floor - 0.5–1 m). Make a recess at the designated location for installation distribution box. You will put a thermostat in it. It is necessary to control the operation of the heated floor.
- 2. Connect the grounding and power wires to the box.
- 3. Make a small groove in the wall surface. You will run the wires along it to the connection point between the thermostat and the heating cable.
- 4. Clean the floor base, install a small thickness (about 20 mm) thermal insulation layer on it (it is advisable to use foil materials).
- 5. Place the mounting tape on the floor in 0.5–1 m increments and secure it with screws or self-tapping screws.
- 6. Lay the cable on the tape according to the planned pattern (loop, parallel lines).
- 7. Place a corrugated tube between the heating wires and place a temperature sensor in it. Note: the end of the tube should be plugged. Then concrete mortar will not get clogged into it and will not damage the sensor.
- 8. Bring the ends of the temperature indicator and the heating cable to the installation site of the thermostat, connect them to the control device using special couplings. The latter are sold together with an electrical cable.
All elements of the electrically heated floor are installed. Now you can pour the concrete-sand mixture screed. Its thickness is 3–5 mm. After the screed has hardened, you can connect the system to the power supply and then lay the finishing coating.
Advice. It is better to entrust the connection of a heated floor to an electrical panel to a professional if you do not have sufficient knowledge in the field of electrical installation to perform such an operation yourself.
