Thanks to the latest options electrical distribution in the room has become an alternative hidden wiring in a wooden house, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with the PUE.
To engage in the reproduction of hidden electricity, it is important to be as prepared as possible, since there are new, but very specific risks. It is important to study a number of standards and GOSTs and only then proceed with the installation of the current method for laying electricity.
Advantages of hidden electrical wiring in wooden houses
Everyone is familiar with the design firsthand, and if it is disrupted by banal electrical wiring, it will be obvious. Let's consider a number of advantageous features:
Hidden wiring in a wooden house is installed not only according to regulatory requirements, but also taking into account aesthetic considerations.
Some rules that must be used
As we said, neglecting the rules when working with electrical networks has a dangerous outcome.
Important! Compliance with state standards regarding the installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is a chance for successful work electrical appliances.
We are for safety! To avoid any problems after installation, it is important to carry out all work exclusively according to the instructions in the diagram. You can draw up such a diagram yourself or find it on the Internet, selecting it according to the conditions of building a house. This is the only way safety can be guaranteed.
Let's prevent fire! Try to lay electrical wiring in places where there is no risk of wood ignition in the event of a short circuit or overcurrent breakdown. Typically, installation is carried out on non-combustible materials, for example, in partitions.
We preserve the interior of the house! To make branching wires invisible, they should be made in baseboards, door frames or near windows, placing them in special wooden boxes. You can also make an electrical network in special pipes with corrugated insulation, and you can put an asbestos gasket in it. It protects the insulation from powerful wiring.
Such a wiring connection in wood is prohibited.
Accounting for free access! Despite maintaining the design solutions of the living space, it is important at any time to quickly get to the boxes where all the conductors are hidden. It happens that you have to fix some damage, and tearing down half a wall to do this will cost you a lot of money.
Hidden wiring in insulation in wood
How should hidden wiring be inserted into a wooden house?
Many would-be electricians try to use the most primitive and lightweight methods to connect their wooden home to the general electrical network. However, this issue also has its own nuances. We invite you to consider them.
- Do not under any circumstances be guided by using ancient methods electrical plant in the house. It is likely that such options have not met the requirements for a long time.
- It is not recommended to place conductors on ceramic heads attached to the street wall of a wooden house, as they say - this is a time bomb! Sooner or later you will face a fire problem.
- The electrical network should not be installed through a wooden attic. In damp conditions and an unheated roof space, the insulating layer is often damaged, resulting in a risk of a short circuit.
- Use approved wiring entry methods. One of the optimal ones is the air method. But its disadvantage is that for implementation it is necessary to attract professional electricians.
- Underground wiring is characterized by reliability and durability. These qualities are due to the fact that the wires are completely hidden and are not exposed to atmospheric phenomena or mechanical influences caused by the human factor.
Important! The difficulty of installing hidden wiring in a house has been proven by carrying out labor-intensive tasks.
This type of wiring is prohibited.
Remember that not one centimeter of the electrical cable should come into contact with wooden walls or other ceilings, therefore, steel or copper tubes- this is a prerequisite for electrical wiring in wooden housing.
prokommunikacii.ru
Installation of hidden wiring in a wooden house using PEU: cable laying with step-by-step instructions
Many owners of wooden buildings were able to verify that they have many advantages over brick and other structures. Despite this, wooden buildings also have a number of disadvantages, among which rapid combustion should be especially emphasized.
Often, such fires do not happen due to trivial reasons such as careless handling of fireplaces, stoves and other heating devices, but due to the incorrect location of the electrical wiring and its previously incorrect installation option.
Electrical wiring: how not to install it
The rules for electrical installations, or PUE, are the bible of every electrician and they indicate exactly how electrical wiring should be installed. If you follow these rules, the operation of the house will be as safe as possible, and the installation itself will be reliable and durable.
According to the PUE, laying cables on wooden structures of a residential building and especially cladding with highly flammable materials is strictly prohibited. Will big mistake, if you trust the high-quality wiring winding, since the design of any cable involves a huge variety of different processes that, in principle, cannot be predicted.
These include:
- Wiring deformation at the micro level.
- Temperature changes.
- Increase and decrease in air humidity.
- Possibility of dust accumulation.
Sometimes, when electrical wiring in a wooden house is laid parallel to each other, especially in the absence of protection from the base and when the voltage in the electrical network increases, a fire may occur.
Again, as the rule states, namely clause 7.1.38 of the PUE, installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house cannot be carried out on top of wooden structures. It is also prohibited to place cables in plastic boxes and corrugations.
Why can't I install plastic components? Because they can cause dangerous situations due to rodent damage and the accumulation of wood dust, which is extremely flammable.
It is important to note that if hidden wiring catches fire, even if hidden in corrugation, the increased temperature will certainly be transferred to the walls, since any corrugated product is not able to prevent high temperatures.
In this regard, some builders are interested in why corrugation is needed and what is its meaning? In fact, corrugated structures are necessary because their purpose is to withstand short circuits without burning out in the time required for self-extinguishing.
If full-fledged action is necessary, it is necessary to use steel components, which are precisely what these very rules recommend.
How to properly install wiring
Today, every electrician, if asked, can answer that there are many ways to install electrical wiring, but if the electrical installation is in accordance with the PUE, there are only a few. The most important thing to focus on is fire safety requirements, and it doesn’t matter whether it’s design or installation.
If you consider the installation of wiring in a building made of rounded logs, you can see that it runs exclusively in non-flammable channels. If a fire does occur, it is immediately extinguished in the box itself.
The main rule is that there is no need to strive and put exceptional design and visual beauty first! If all this is not omitted, then you can lose such beauty and, in addition, suffer yourself.
It is best to hide the wires in a wooden house when laying metal pipes and steel boxes that can be hidden in numerous voids. If you lay cables in corrugations and installation boxes using exclusively non-flammable materials, then you must prepare special gaskets for installation in advance in the form of:
- Plasters.
- Plaster.
- Concrete.
The thickness of these gaskets should be selected individually depending on the characteristics of a particular cable.
If you follow the rules of electrical installations, then the most reliable is installation in boxes and pipes made of steel or copper. For example, copper pipes, if necessary, can be bent at the required angle independently and without unnecessary effort, and this is a significant advantage in an extensive power supply scheme.
If, when laying cables in a wooden house according to the PUE, you use steel pipes, then it is recommended to invite qualified workers to install them, since working with steel is much more difficult, especially if the replacement occurs in parts.
Again, cutting the sharp edges on the boxes also requires skill, and if this is not done, the wiring can be seriously damaged.
Where to start
Without the PUE, literally not a single step can be taken in any actions that relate to electrical wiring, including when selecting and marking the electrical wiring line.
When marking, it is advisable to try to keep the possible number of bends and turns as small as possible, and in places where installation of electrical wiring is possible, but complicated by complex architectural solutions, it is strictly necessary to use junction boxes.
PUE rules strictly prohibit installing junction boxes in hard to reach places. They must have absolutely free access, which may be needed in unexpected situations.
In order not to damage the structure of the house, steel or copper pipes should be placed with the necessary calculations. Depending on the electrical wiring, the required thickness of the tubes and their cross-section are selected, since the cable itself, according to the rules, can occupy up to 40% internal space and, if necessary, can be easily pulled into the cavity of the pipe.
If it is customary to lay not one wire, but 2 or 3, then the pipe should be selected with a larger diameter, since the rules remain the same - up to 40%.
You should also calculate the insulation resistance and this is done before the installation of the wiring begins. This is necessary for:
- So that you can determine whether the wire meets the requirements.
- Find out possible damage to the insulation during transportation and storage.
- To comply with the same rules regarding the preparatory stage.
How to choose electrical wiring
When the stage, which includes marking the nodes and developing circuits, has come to completion, it is necessary to select the wire itself, which will have to be used for installation. Wooden structures should choose wires of the following markings:
- VVGng-PLS.
- VVGng (A).
- VVGngLS.
- VVGng-P (A).
Wires VVGng (A) or VVGng-P (A) have solid copper construction and double insulation. The inner layer is made strictly of non-flammable PVC and, most importantly, each core is protected separately and has its own color, which greatly facilitates the installation of any type of sockets, lighting devices, switches, etc. The second type of insulation is made in the form of composite plastic and covers the outside of the wire. It can be used in a wide variety of places with temperature conditions from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.
As for the cables marked VVGng LS, VVGng-P LS, they are, in principle, no different in their parameters. The only one distinctive feature the fact that when heated they do not emit harmful substances.
And finally, NYM brand electrical wire. This cable has 3 layers of insulation and is manufactured according to GOST 22483. The insulation of this cable is:
- Each core is protected by its own layer.
- All cores in the bundle are re-insulated.
- After this, insulation occurs in the form of enclosing the entire structure in a PVC shell.
How to choose locations for switches and sockets
When the places where it is planned to install sockets with switches have been determined, first you should drill out the sockets with special nozzles and a drill. It is necessary to install metal boxes in these sockets, which are mounted according to the same rules as any other soldering analogues.
It is extremely important to ensure grounding during installation. If continuity of the circuit is achieved when pulling the wire, then grounding can be installed through the distribution panel.
The device for fastening metal boxes to pipes is based on welding and soldering. There are, of course, other possibilities, but in wooden buildings this method has maximum reliability:
- By soldering and welding the contacts achieve maximum strength.
- Protection from environmental influences in the form of corrosion.
- Such fastenings are able to withstand external mechanical loads.
Depending on which pipes are used, a decision is made about connecting to the box. For example, when working with copper pipes, all edges in the box are flared, but with steel analogues, the connection is made using nuts. To do this, you first need to cut a thread at the end of the pipes.
All nuts must be processed, since both the quality of installation and their further operation depend on this. When choosing boxes for installing switches with sockets, both distribution and technological, it is necessary to ensure compliance with the requirements of class IP -54. Only under this condition can one be guaranteed to obtain maximum confidence that neither moisture nor dust will penetrate the box during operation.
Last step: wiring test
When all installation work is completed, boxes and pipes are installed, the grounding device should be checked. This is necessary in order to determine how securely all elements of the common circuit are fixed.
If the check shows that all the requirements of the PUE are met absolutely precisely, you can start pulling the electrical wire.
It is extremely important to leave a tolerance when drawing electrical wiring and fixing it in boxes, since sometimes the connection system can change, and if there is no reserve length, then a section of the circuit will have to be electrified again.
If the material of the constructed building is wood, then according to the rules of the PUE it is allowed to use cables with only 3 or 5 cores. Grounding is also mandatory. If the electrical wiring network is not equipped with grounding, the object is considered unprepared for delivery.
To summarize, we can add that exactly how the entire electrical wiring path will be laid is, of course, decided by the customer. Of course, the shrinkage factors of a wooden house and the flammability of the material should be taken into account. As for the builders, in essence they don’t care; they will do what they are told to do. Only the construction customer should decide and follow the PUE or design and aesthetics, this is his right.
Video: hidden wiring in a wooden house
derevostroika.ru
Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house: step-by-step instructions, PUE rules, diagrams, hidden and open electrical wiring + photos and videos
A wooden house pleases its residents with lightness and indescribable comfort. But wood, for all its advantages, is a flammable material that requires increased attention from the point of view fire safety. But since the need to equip a house with electricity is not discussed today, before starting work, you need to carefully read the rules for installing electrical equipment (PUE) and the provisions of GOSTs. There are no particular difficulties in following these rules, but you need to know about them.
Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house
Codes of rules PUE and SNiP are developed by specialists in the field of safety. This is not the whim of an office official, but a list of necessary standards, compliance with which brings the level of “carelessness” as close as possible to the desired one. We can say that life itself writes these dry chapters, behind which human tragedies are sometimes hidden.
The main cause of fires in wooden buildings is electrical short circuit. Statistics on fires, unfortunately, leave no doubt that wood construction always on the front line of fire risk. However, if we remember that for hundreds (and maybe thousands) of years our ancestors lived in wooden log houses, there is hope that everything is possible, you just need to competently deal with the wiring. After all, it is this that in the vast majority of cases becomes the cause of fire.
The basic requirements contained in the PUE and GOSTs are as follows:
- The wiring calculation should be made with a margin of up to 30%. This concerns, first of all, the selection of the cross-sectional area of the wires, since this determines the degree of heating of the insulation and the likelihood of a short circuit during operation. To cover the whole picture of electrification as a whole, it is necessary to prepare a working project with a detailed diagram and specification of electrical wiring, and upon completion of the work, undergo certification and receive a wiring passport.
- The quality of the connections should not allow the slightest possibility of harm to the residents of the house electric shock.
- Heating and ignition of cables is unacceptable, as this will most likely lead to the arson of the entire house. The possibility of short circuits must be completely excluded.
The PUE welcomes installation of lighting in wooden houses using 12-volt lamps and LED equipment, which is considered the safest to date. For example, in mines and mines, especially in those where there are accumulations of methane gas, and an explosion can occur from a single spark, all equipment is powered by a current of 12 volts. The same thing is done in cars.
A significant obstacle that makes it difficult to independently carry out work on installing wiring in a wooden house is the lack of a single document regulating the installation. The main regulations are dispersed in regulatory documents GOST and SNiP and are not systematized. Therefore, when drawing up a project, it is better to contact a specialized organization that has a license for this type of activity.
Preparation of a power supply project
Project documentation must include all details of future wiring. It displays the location of lighting fixtures, sockets, mounting boxes, and distribution boards. The specification describes in detail the brands of conductors used for wiring, their total number and nominal characteristics. All electrical devices involved in the power supply circuit, such as an electric meter, RAM, automatic machines and others, are calculated in advance to ensure compliance with the loads expected during operation.
An electrical supply project usually includes a wiring diagram indicating the markings of the cables used, the type of devices to be installed and the calculated load on each of them The presence of a project is a sign of a civilized and responsible approach to business.
You can, of course, route the cables without it, but:
- practice shows that installing wiring without a preliminary design usually costs 10–15% more. At the same time, errors are possible, the correction of which also costs money;
- In the event of a fire, the insurance company will require a certified home electrification plan. In its absence, damage coverage will be delayed indefinitely (until the circumstances are clarified). It's good if only one house burns down. In densely populated areas, a fire can spread to neighboring areas. The owner will be the culprit wooden structure, from where the fire began to spread. The only way to prove your non-involvement is to present a certified plan for the electrification of the premises;
- Having a plan significantly reduces the cost of preventative and repair work on electrical wiring during further operation, and also helps to quickly find and eliminate the source of damage to the power supply.
A full-fledged project consists not only of drawings, but also of a detailed description of all elements and equipment. It usually includes:
- Graphic representation of all levels of living space, at which, using accepted symbols the locations of cable routes, consumers and electrical equipment are reflected.
- Single-line electricity supply diagrams.
- Detailed calculations of grounding loops.
- Cross-sectional area of conductors.
- List of switching devices.
- Maximum current and voltage of the meter.
- Calculations of power of electrical receiving devices.
In addition, the project must provide for external lighting of the site and the connection of courtyard buildings - bathhouses, garages, utility rooms.
The electrical wiring project for a private house must contain a calculation and diagram of the installation of external lighting in the adjacent area Project documentation is developed in several stages:
- Formulation of the problem. Power supply is planned in accordance with the technical specifications and conditions. The customer expresses his vision to the contractor orally or using a diagram. As one of the options, a design project can serve as an order form.
- Development and approval of the project. If necessary, the project is protected and approved by representatives of inspection organizations. Electrification parameters and their compliance are being clarified regulatory documentation.
- Project implementation support. Sometimes it is also called installation supervision, during which the designer directly monitors the execution of the work.
Calculation of cable cross-section
Calculation of conductors consists of determining two parameters:
In conditions of increased fire safety requirements, the rules require the mandatory use of three-core wires. This measure is dictated by the need for protective grounding of the entire power supply system.
In private houses, wiring should be done with a three-core cable: one core is the phase wire, the second is neutral, the third is grounding Table: selection of cable cross-section depending on current strength
Calculation of electrical installation devices
Electrical installation devices - sockets, switches and distribution boxes are selected based on the technological conditions of their operation.
Selection of input cable and circuit breaker at the input
Great importance in ensuring the safety of electrical wiring has the correct entry of electricians into the house. When choosing a cable and a circuit breaker, you should take into account the fact that in the future the load on it will only increase - the number household appliances and units that are used at home, increases over time.
The cross-section of the input cable must be calculated for the future: over time, the number of electrical devices used and their total power consumption will only increase The electrician's task is to choose a cable that will ensure the use of electrical devices without the risk of overvoltage of the input conductor. The optimal placement of the input circuit breaker (AB) is considered to be its location in front of the meter. Its task is to turn off the internal network in case of excessive current consumption, for example, during a short circuit. But at the same time, it should not turn off at maximum permissible load. In order to calculate the rating of the input AV independently, use the formula Inom = P/U x cos(f), where Inom is the rated current, P is the total power of all devices, cos(f) is the power factor, which for most electrical appliances can be considered equal unit. 10% is added to the resulting rated current value and the circuit breaker is selected relative to it. Most often, in a private house, an AB with a nominal value of 25 A is sufficient.
The input circuit breaker must withstand the maximum load from all switched on electrical appliances, but open the network when too high currents occur, for example, from a short circuit Three-phase power supply for a private house
The vast majority of wooden houses use single-phase power. But if you plan to use high-power units - for example, powerful electric welding or woodworking machines - a three-phase current supply is required. In this case, to calculate the installation devices, you need to contact a specialist. Calculations are made using more complex formulas and in relation to specific situation.
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house
If you have an agreed project, completed in accordance with all legal standards, you can install the electrical wiring yourself. To do this you need to stock up necessary tools and materials, as well as familiarize yourself with safety regulations. Let's consider the main stages of home electrification.
Installation of distribution board
The distribution board is the main control point for electrical energy. It is a cabinet containing devices for monitoring and metering current consumption. Can be metal or made of dielectric plastic.
The distribution panel contains control and monitoring devices for the electrical network: meters, circuit breakers, residual current devices, etc. The shield is mounted in a place convenient for use, at a height of 1.5 to 1.7 m from the floor surface. Most often, it is placed near the front door in such a way that when leaving you can turn off the electricity, and when returning you can turn it on. An input cable is connected from the power lines to the switchboard, and then the electricity is distributed throughout the house. The following is installed inside the shield:
- electricity consumption meter;
- circuit breakers on DIN rail;
- RCD (residual current device);
- buses for grounding and neutral circuit output.
An input circuit breaker can also be located here, but it is also practiced to locate it outside the house at the connection point overhead line To home network. This option is not without meaning, since the risk of excessive load on the input cable is significantly reduced.
Installation of the distribution board is done first. Special attention should be given to the selection of automation, using proven and reliable brands of devices from famous manufacturers.
Video: review of a switchboard for a private home
Cable entry indoors
There are two options for introducing the cable from the power line into the house.
- An aerial method that uses a self-supporting insulated conductor.
- Underground method, when the cable is brought into the room from underground.
The first option is more common due to its speed and efficiency. The second one is more expensive, but has a number of advantages, such as long service life and independence from atmospheric disasters.
The underground cable entry method is more labor-intensive, but more reliable and durable In any case, the rules require that the cable be inserted into a wooden house through a metal thick-walled (from 2.5 to 3.3 mm) pipe. Its interior must be painted or galvanized, and the installation is carried out at an angle of 3–5° to the horizontal plane so that the condensate formed can flow out freely (GOST R 50571.15–97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2).
The cable is inserted into a wooden house through a metal sleeve, which is placed at an angle to organize condensate drainage. The installation of the metal sleeve and the cable entry are always carried out from the outside of the wall. The installer must have the appropriate qualifications and approval. Most often, this work is performed by employees of the energy supply organization.
Video: introducing cable into the house and connecting to the switchboard
Installation of switches and sockets
In wooden buildings there are certain nuances in the installation of switches and sockets.
Otherwise, the installation of sockets and switches is no different from installation in a stone building.
- First, the wall is marked. It is best to use a building level or laser level.
- Next, socket boxes or protective platforms are installed.
- The device base is mounted on them.
- After connecting to the wires, the outer casing is attached.
All of the above applies to distribution boxes. It is recommended to design wiring in such a way as to reduce their number to a minimum.
Connecting wires
Based on the same premises of increased fire hazard, it is recommended that conductor connections in wooden buildings be made using factory terminal blocks. Twisting is allowed only in case of additional soldering of current-carrying conductors and using plastic caps.
Wire connections must be made using special terminal blocks; twists can only be used as a last resort Grounding and installation of RCDs
A residual current device (RCD) is designed to protect humans (and pets) from electric shock in the event of a possible leak on damaged insulation or the metal casing of household appliances.
In the electrical wiring diagram in a private house, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an RCD device that protects against electric shock in case of accidental leaks The device is capable of detecting minimal leakage and responding to it by opening the circuit. The level of sensitivity depends on the brand of the device. The choice is made according to the main parameter - leakage current, which is expressed in milliamps. If the RCD is included in the whole house protection scheme, a leakage current value of 30 mA is sufficient. If the device is intended to protect individual rooms, for example, a bathroom or toilet, select a higher sensitivity of 10 mA. An RCD is installed in the distribution board. The connection diagram provides for the location of the RCD in front of the circuit breakers.
The residual current device for the general circuit of the house is selected for a leakage current of 30 mA Video: connecting a circuit breaker and an RCD
The same tasks are assigned to grounding all electrical installations inside the house. Separately, we can say about the grounding device. In order for the stray current drainage system to work properly, you need to follow the recommendations for independently installing a grounding strip.
The ground loop consists of three metal plates, fixed on reinforcing pins To do this, you will need three-meter-long metal fittings and three-meter sections of corners.
Do not forget about the seasonal expansion and contraction of metal under the influence of changing air temperatures.
To prevent the grounding bus from being broken, a “compensation hump” is made in it, which is designed to absorb thermal changes.
Methods for open wiring
In practice, three types of external wiring are used in wooden houses:
The choice depends entirely on the aesthetic inclinations of the residents of the house. All the necessary materials are available for sale to realize your preferences in terms of design solution.
Video: external wiring in a cable channel in a wooden house
Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house
If for some reason the customer is not satisfied with the external location of the wiring in the house, the cables are routed in a hidden way. In a wooden structure this is a rather labor-intensive and painstaking procedure. Each wire, regardless of its thickness, must be packaged in a metal pipe. Socket boxes and distribution boxes must also be made of metal. The pipes are supposed to be protected from corrosion. To do this, they must be painted from the inside with moisture-resistant enamels, and small holes must be drilled at certain intervals to drain condensate. For the same purpose, it is necessary to place the pipe at a slope so that drops of moisture can flow out. To avoid damage to the insulation, the ends of the pipes are cleaned of sharp burrs and additionally equipped with plastic tips.
To install hidden wiring in a wooden house, cables inside the walls are laid in metal pipes and brought out into niches covered with metal sockets. 
The big disadvantage of hidden wiring in a wooden structure is the inaccessibility of the cables. If any problems occur, replacing the old cable with a new one will be very difficult. Nevertheless, this type of wiring has its fans. Especially among designers who are primarily concerned with the aesthetic design of the home.
Video: hidden wiring in wooden log house
Wiring test
After completing the installation, the customer needs to invite employees of the electrical laboratory. The purpose of the test is to measure the resistance of the system as a whole, grounding resistance and check all automation: RCDs, circuit breakers, current flow meter. If all parameters comply with the norm, the customer receives a signed protocol responsible person. This document is presented to the service company when concluding an agreement to supply the facility with electricity.
After completion of the work, it is necessary to invite a specialist to check the system and obtain a test report for the electrical wiring. When carrying out wiring installation activities yourself, it is important to observe personal safety measures. Electric shock can cause irreparable harm to health and cause death. Installation is carried out only when the power supply is turned off. Commissioning of equipment is carried out in the presence of an authorized representative design organization.
tehznatok.com
Installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house. Part 2
Welcome to the website http://zametkielectrika.ru.
In the last article (part 1) I told you about the mistakes that electricians make when performing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, as well as what consequences arise from this.
Today I am writing a continuation of the article for you.
How to perform installation correctly?
I will say right away that the primary basis should be only the requirements of electrical safety and fire safety. The cost of electrical installation work and interior design take a back seat.
Laying methods
There are 2 ways to lay cables and wires in voids and ceilings made of wood, i.e. from combustible material.
1. In a metal pipe
I consider the first method to be the safest and most reliable - laying cables and wires in metal pipes or metal boxes.
But this method of laying is quite labor-intensive and labor-intensive. But we'll talk about this a little lower.
2. B plastic pvc corrugated, box (channel) and in a metal hose
Plastic surface corrugations and boxes are non-combustible materials and are designated by the index “ng”, i.e. does not spread or support combustion. Read about this in the article requirements for electrical wiring.
I told you about laying wires and cables in a metal hose, PVC corrugation and box (channel) in the first part of the article. But here I want to add the following.
Such installation is permitted under one IMPORTANT condition:
Along the entire length and on all sides, it is necessary to place fireproof material between the metal hose (PVC corrugation and box) and wooden surfaces.
Fireproof materials can be: alabaster, plaster, cement, concrete, etc.
Installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house using metal pipes
As I said above, installing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house using metal pipes is labor-intensive and labor-intensive. And besides, such electrical installation can only be performed by trained and qualified specialists.
Where to begin?
The very first thing you need to start installation with is materials. And I advise you to use copper pipes.
Why copper pipes?
Yes, because copper pipes are easily subject to deformation (easily bent). Therefore, when using copper pipes, additional professional tool you may not buy it.
I would like to tell you a few more words that the installation of hidden electrical wiring should be carried out in such a way as to ensure the replacement of wires and cables. What cannot be said about metal boxes, because... When pulling wires and cables, in this case we will damage their insulation due to sharp corners.
1. Route markings
If you have a project, then this is the task of the designers. But if you carry out the installation yourself (independently), then the marking of the electrical wiring route must be chosen the most optimal, i.e. with minimal damage to wooden surfaces, because scoring and drilling into wooden structures weakens them.
2. Installation of distribution boxes
Here I want to say that distribution boxes need to be installed only metal ones and in accessible places for inspection and further maintenance and operation.
It is prohibited to hide or hide distribution boxes.
3. Metal pipe diameter
Also an important point.
How to choose the correct diameter of a metal pipe?
The diameter of the metal pipe is selected very simply. It is necessary that the wires and cables enter the pipe freely, while filling 40% of the pipe cross-section.
How to choose the wall thickness of a metal pipe?
The wall thickness of a metal pipe for hidden electrical wiring is selected based on the cross-section of the wire or cable cores laid in this pipe.
In order not to burden you with unnecessary numbers, I will present the data in the form of a table.
4. Installation of mounting boxes (socket boxes)
To choose the right location for socket boxes, read the article Installing sockets and switches.
It is necessary to use only metal mounting boxes for sockets and switches, which we attach to an already connected metal pipe.
If you used steel pipes, then connect the pipe and the mounting box using a nut. You can also use welding for connection, which in my opinion is a more reliable connection. The distribution boxes are attached in the same way.
It looks like this.
If you used copper pipes during installation, then the end of the copper pipe is flared in the installation box.
5. Grounding metal pipes
Installation of a metal pipe must be carried out without breaking the pipe in distribution and installation boxes. In this case, the PE grounding conductor is connected to a pipe in the ASU panel.
If the pipe has breaks, then at the place of the break you need to ensure that the pipe is connected to the PE grounding conductor.
6. Electrical measurements
The next point of installation is to carry out electrical measurements. It is necessary to measure the presence of a circuit between grounding conductors and grounded installations and elements of a grounded installation, i.e. metal communication
I'll tell you how to do this next time. Subscribe to site news.
This measurement gives us a guarantee that all metal distribution and installation boxes are continuous and connected to a common PE bus in the ASU of the house.
7. Laying wires and cables
Electrical wiring is carried out using three-core or five-core wires, i.e. By TN-C-S system or TN-S. You can choose the brand of wires and cables according to my recommendations. Follow the link and study the material.
For information - PUNP wire is prohibited for use.
Plastic bushings are placed on the ends of metal pipes to prevent damage to wires and cables during installation.
Then “steel” is pulled into the metal pipe, with the help of which wires and cables are subsequently pulled to the wiring boxes.
Upon completion of work on laying wires and cables for hidden electrical wiring in metal pipes, it is necessary to measure the insulation resistance to ensure that the insulation was not damaged during installation.
8. Connection
The last stage of installing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is cutting and connecting wires and cables to electrical equipment.
9. Completion of work
After completing the installation, you need to contact the employees of the electrical engineering laboratory, who will carry out the following acceptance measurements and tests:
After all the measurements, the electrical laboratory specialists will write a conclusion about the condition and serviceability of your newly installed hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house.
In the next article read about open wiring in a wooden house.
P.S. This is where I end the article. I think I have demonstrated to you in detail and clearly how to carry out installation correctly. Ask your questions in the comments.
zametkielectrika.ru
A log house or a cottage made of timber: any building made of wood, regardless of the impregnation of the material with fire retardants, is fire hazardous, and many owners wonder whether it is necessary hidden wiring in a wooden house.
Is hidden wiring possible in a wooden house?
In an apartment in a high-rise building, in order to install an electrical network in the premises, concrete walls subjected to gating, that is, shallow grooves are machined. With brick it is often easier to do this, simply hiding the wiring under a thick layer of plaster. In buildings made of logs or beams, things are somewhat more complicated. Even the highest quality cable can easily burn out due to an accidental short circuit, which is why there is a high probability of a fire. Of course, there is an optimal solution - to lay the network so that all the wires are visible. But many will find this option unaesthetic.
Is it acceptable hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house? Quite if you use special channels that should fit into the walls. The main requirement is to prevent the cable from coming into contact with the wood.. The fact is that even without short circuits, the metal core hidden in the insulation tends to heat up when there is a high load on the network, which occurs when several household appliances are turned on. Care must be taken in advance to ensure that wooden walls do not heat up from the wiring, and this is achieved with the help of special boxes, sleeves or pipes laid in the walls.
Selecting a channel for pulling the cable
So, in order to hide all the wires in the thickness of the walls, you will have to hollow out recesses, grooves, cavities, through holes, and so on in logs or beams. However, as already mentioned, even an insulated cable should not come into contact with the wood. As a precaution, many use metal hoses, which are completely unsuitable for this purpose (due to poor thermal insulation properties); they are designed for pulling external network. For laying cables inside wooden walls, special metal tubes are used, in extreme cases - non-flammable or plastic, which tend to fade without external intervention. Let's consider both options.
Metal cable ducts are preferable for the simple reason that they are not at all susceptible to fire. In addition, you should take into account the shrinkage of the walls, due to which plastic pipes, unlike copper ones, are easily deformed. On the other hand, the channels must bend in the corners, in which case, if you are working with copper, you need to be patient. The fact is that first a wire is pulled into the tube, after which it should be carefully bent using a special pipe bending device. In this case, the bend must have a certain radius, otherwise there is a risk of damage to the cable.
Plastic channels are less preferable, although they are more cost-effective and allow you to save a lot of money when laying the electrical network. It is best to just place them in grooves knocked out at the ends of the logs that limit the doorway; in extreme cases, use them to pull wires through walls. It is better not to insert plastic tubes into the thickness of the partitions between rooms, remembering the shrinkage of the crowns. The grooves with cable channels are closed with plugs cut from a board or block, which are subsequently covered with platbands or masked using a special putty for wood, followed by sanding the surface, as well as stain and varnish.
What is the easiest way to hide the electrical network in a log house?
It is best to do room wiring not along the walls, but either under the flooring or under the ceiling cladding. Since such placement of cables is considered secretive, we lay copper tubes along the joists (or under them, if on the ceiling), connecting them in special distribution boxes, which under no circumstances should come into contact with the tree. It is advisable to separate such highway intersections from the lining with asbestos or metal sheets. In the wall, at the end of each groove for a network branch, we hollow out a recess for the mounting box, on top of which a socket or switch is attached. The diameter of the pipe and the thickness of its wall are selected depending on the cross-section of the wire.
Twists of wires, even covered with junction boxes, must be insulated with caps, especially in places where wood is located in close proximity. If you plan to cover the walls with clapboard, you can run cable ducts directly along their surface without gouging out grooves. It is in this case that non-flammable plastic pipes are most appropriate, and, regardless of the material, the wires should be completely hidden in them, especially at the junction with junction boxes. As an option, a combined scheme is possible, when the lines are hidden in metal gutters and pipes under the cladding of walls, floors and ceilings, and the point-to-point distribution is done half-open, in boxes.
Open wiring in a wooden house as part of the design
It is not at all necessary to hide the cables if the walls are not planned to be hidden under lathing and then finished with plaster or under wallpaper. It will go perfectly with log partitions between rooms; in a wooden house this solution can become part of the design. However, if you think that the electrical network, stretched along the walls and ceiling, will not be combined with paintings and rugs, it can be placed in plastic boxes that will fit into any environment.
It is also allowed to lay cables in special channels of decorative skirting boards, which is convenient during European-quality renovation, when you do not want to make the apartment look like an office using boxes. Some homeowners use plastic corrugated tubes, which are flexible, but do not protect the wiring at all and are not aesthetically pleasing. IN non-residential premises Very often, cables are mounted using metal brackets; this option is appropriate in a bathroom or bathhouse, as well as in a workshop, garage, cellar or barn.
An external power supply is convenient because it is easy to find and correct damage caused by a short circuit or for any other reason.
The most interesting is the open one, made in a “retro” style, when insulated copper wires twisted into a pigtail are stretched directly along the wall, secured with ceramic insulators. In stores you can often find models of sockets and switches in the style of the 30-40s, with massive cases (although the sockets will almost certainly have a grounding contact). The only condition for organizing such a network is to maintain a gap of 10 millimeters between the cable and the wall. However, this type also has disadvantages, in particular: children have open access to the wires (what if they want to cut them with scissors), as well as the high cost and shortage of ceramic rollers for fastening two-wire twisting.
More often wooden houses are being built on summer cottages. The advantage of these buildings is the low material costs for construction and high speed construction. The main disadvantage of this solution is the high probability of ignition in the event of an emergency in the electrical wiring. As a result of sparks and short circuits, the walls and ceiling will easily catch fire. Hence the high requirements for cable laying in structures with combustible surfaces in the PUE and other normative and technical documentation. Therefore, let's figure out how electrical wiring in a wooden house should be done safely, in accordance with GOSTs and PUE.
Requirements
- Lighting
- Sockets
- Powerful electrical appliances
Be sure to protect these groups with individual automatic circuit breakers and RCDs. A residual current device must be installed on the circuit from which the water heater, electric boiler, dishwasher and washing machine and other powerful consumers, especially if they are located in damp areas.
Then for a cable with a core cross-section of 1.5 square meters. mm (lighting circuits) choose a machine with a rated current of 6-10 amperes, and for 2.5 sq. mm - 16 amperes.
Group RCDs for sockets or individual consumers must have a leakage current (differential current, also known as Id) in the range of 10-30 mA, and a general RCD, also called input or fire protection, is chosen with a leakage current greater than for group ones, for example 100-300 mA .
Also, a selective RCD is sometimes installed at the input - it differs from the usual one in its long response time. The rated current of the RCD must be higher than the current of the circuit breaker that protects this group, that is, AB at 10A - RCD at 16A, AB at 16A - RCD at 25A.
Assembly diagram of a single-phase shield in a wooden house:
If you have carried out 3 phases per site, the distribution board diagram may look like:
After the wiring is done and the panel is assembled, we recommend calling an electrician so that he can check everything and possibly eliminate obvious errors. Next, you need to go through acceptance tests, obtain a certificate of approval for connecting to the network, and also call a representative of the distribution network to seal the meter and the input machine.
That's all the step-by-step instructions, explaining in detail how to do electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands. Be sure to carry out electrical installation in accordance with the PUE and other existing standards. They are designed and collected based on the large number of accidents that could have been avoided by simply following the rules. We hope that the tips and diagrams provided helped you carry out electrical installation yourself or at least save on some installation steps.
In terms of electrical installation, wooden buildings are the most complex objects. We have prepared for you a set of rules for installing wiring in a wooden house, which discusses in detail issues regarding the choice of materials and cable laying systems, as well as the installation of installation products.
1. Wiring in strict accordance with regulations
The organization of an electrical network in a wooden house is second in complexity only to buildings on permanent polystyrene foam formwork. Laying on combustible substrates is only permitted open method or with 100% localization of the conductor inside the protective shell.
This requirement is not so strict for frame internal partitions with non-flammable filler. In the most correct version the passage of the cable through the frame racks is accompanied by the sheathing of the latter; in practice, most often the conductor is completely wrapped in corrugation or a metal hose, ensuring replacement.
Open laying is also a good solution. A number of fittings and installation techniques are provided that make open wiring aesthetically acceptable and even add some color to the interior. In addition to plastic cable channels, it is possible to lay PV-1 wire wound on ceramic insulators and use non-recessed housing installation fittings. In cases of hidden installation, non-flammable cable grades are used: VVGng or KGng.
Due to the complexity of installation, cable routing along the walls should be kept to a minimum. But for this you will need to thoroughly think through the layout of cable lines.
2. Wiring diagram for walls and ceiling
In the most acceptable version of the electrical network around the house, each electrical point is connected along one straight line to the frame floor, ceiling or sub-ceiling, closed by a suspended or tension covering. All the main wiring is carried out along the technological cavity, hidden from view, although more often the lines simply stretch one at a time to the panel panel. Naturally, the bulk of sockets and switches should be placed on internal walls, and on enclosing walls only if necessary.
A reasonable solution would be to run the lighting wiring from the switches to the ceiling, and lead the wires for connecting the sockets down to the floor. Due to their low load, lighting network lines can be organized using junction boxes that are inaccessible for maintenance. It is enough to connect the power line from the circuit breaker to such a box, and from it run a switching wire to the key and a power line to each lighting group.
Lines of sockets and groups general purpose allowed to be combined into so-called garlands. It is important that no more than two wires are fixed on each terminal clamp of the sockets. Otherwise, each outlet and group is connected in hidden junction boxes, and the lines are specially high load from household appliances and heaters follow to the group panel without a break.
It is recommended to cover the cables that are collected on the wall near the panel panel with a decorative casing. When laying cables in groups, it is also recommended to separate the base with a non-flammable substrate, for example, a piece of drywall.
3. Localization of conductors and branches
For some reason the installation open wiring may not be acceptable. In this case, the task becomes much more complicated, despite the fact that the part of the wiring laid along the walls is only 15-20% of the total length of the lines.
The possibility of hidden installation should be included at the stage of preliminary assembly of the log house. According to the internal power supply plan in the walls, as they are laid, they are made technological channels for cable. For this purpose, use either electric chisels or core drills. The approximate channel width is 30-50 mm.
Exit holes are drilled in the cross section of the floor or ceiling frame system. Installation of electrical fittings is possible using the recessed method; for this, the channel is found with a feeler gauge and a 60-80 mm hole is drilled in the solid timber using a core drill. Installation boxes for sockets and switches should be made of steel, preferably with a fiberglass liner.
Pipe sections laid inside walls must be localized from environment. It is used for this smooth pipe: metal with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm or steel - from 1.2 mm. These values are approximate; a more accurate calculation requires taking into account the load and voltage on the line, as well as the type and number of conductors inside the shell.
For branching power lines hidden in cavities frame structures, it is recommended to use metal boxes. For indoor installation, protection from wood dust of at least degree 3 is desirable; moisture protection is not taken into account. The entry of cable line sheaths should be flared or equipped with a restrictive ring or nut that does not allow uncoupling.
4. Protective devices
Electrical installation in a wooden house can be complicated by the design features of group and distribution boards. The difference is observed both in the method of mounting the housings and in the selection of protective equipment.
The electrical panel housing must be installed on a non-combustible base. Therefore, under the central panels with ASU, it is recommended to cover the surface with tin, and when installing group panels, use linings made of textolite or fiberglass.
It is convenient to connect group panels with the ceiling and floor using a cable channel, in which usually 3-4 lines are laid for each room. It is not recommended to place shields close to the ceiling or floor.
Circuit breakers are selected according to the permissible continuous current for the cable on the outgoing line; the choice is always made towards a lower rating. Equipment that does not have internal short circuit protection, as well as lines with a fixed maximum load ( ovens, air conditioners) are connected through a circuit breaker with a nominal power consumption and a low response delay during overload (characteristics B and A).
In wooden houses, it is customary to lay wiring according to a three-wire circuit, where the protective conductor is not connected to the neutral conductor. For this reason, the installation of differential protection against electric shock may be accompanied by false alarms. But the diffavtomat fire-fighting type, which monitors insulation leaks will be very useful.
5. Installation of installation products and fittings
At the final stage, the finishing electrical installation is carried out. This is most easily done using non-recessed fittings. It's easy enough to screw onto wooden wall a pair of self-tapping screws, having previously inserted the wires into the housing and connected them.
Much more time and effort is spent on installing hidden (recessed) fittings. To tightly fit the frames, a flat surface is required, so the logs are pre-ground with a plane. Next, a hole is made connecting the surface with the hidden channel. It is used as a centering tool when drilling an installation niche with a core cutter.
It is characteristic that installation boxes can be embedded in the same way as in stone walls— by landing on alabaster. Otherwise, the area must be contained and connected to the cable duct with a non-flammable rigid sleeve.
