How to insulate a timber house. How to insulate timber houses, and with what material. Installation of the frame for effective thermal insulation. Laying thermal insulation

In aspects of electrical installation wooden buildings- the most complex objects. We have prepared for you a set of rules for installing wiring in a wooden house, which discusses in detail issues regarding the choice of materials and cable laying systems, as well as the installation of installation products.

1. Wiring in strict accordance with regulations

The organization of an electrical network in a wooden house is second in complexity only to buildings on permanent polystyrene foam formwork. Laying on combustible substrates is only permitted open method or with 100% localization of the conductor inside the protective shell.

This requirement is not so strict for frame internal partitions with non-flammable filler. In the most correct version the passage of the cable through the frame racks is accompanied by the sheathing of the latter; in practice, most often the conductor is completely wrapped in corrugation or a metal hose, ensuring replacement.

Open laying is also a good solution. A number of fittings and installation techniques are provided that make open wiring aesthetically acceptable and even add some color to the interior. In addition to plastic cable channels, it is possible to lay PV-1 wire wound on ceramic insulators and use non-recessed housing installation fittings. In cases of hidden installation, non-flammable cable grades are used: VVGng or KGng.

Due to the complexity of installation, cable routing along the walls should be kept to a minimum. But for this you will need to thoroughly think through the layout of cable lines.

2. Wiring diagram for walls and ceiling

In the most acceptable version of the electrical network around the house, each electrical point is connected along one straight line to the frame floor, ceiling or sub-ceiling, closed by a suspended or tension covering. All the main wiring is carried out along the technological cavity, hidden from view, although more often the lines simply stretch one at a time to the panel panel. Naturally, the bulk of sockets and switches should be placed on interior walls oh, and on the fencing - only if necessary.

A reasonable solution would be to run the lighting wiring from the switches to the ceiling, and lead the wires for connecting the sockets down to the floor. Due to their low load, lighting network lines can be organized using junction boxes that are inaccessible for maintenance. It is enough to connect the power line from the circuit breaker to such a box, and from it run a switching wire to the key and a power line to each lighting group.

Lines of sockets and groups general purpose allowed to be combined into so-called garlands. It is important that no more than two wires are fixed on each terminal clamp of the sockets. Otherwise, each socket and group are connected in hidden distribution boxes, and lines with special high load from household appliances and heaters follow to the group shield without breaking.

It is recommended to cover the cables that are collected on the wall near the panel panel with a decorative casing. When laying cables in groups, it is also recommended to separate the base with a non-flammable substrate, for example, a piece of drywall.

3. Localization of conductors and branches

For some reason the installation open wiring may not be acceptable. In this case, the task becomes much more complicated, despite the fact that the part of the wiring laid along the walls is only 15-20% of the total length of the lines.

The possibility of hidden installation should be included at the stage of preliminary assembly of the log house. According to the internal power supply plan in the walls, as they are laid, they are made technological channels for cable. For this purpose, use either electric chisels or core drills. The approximate channel width is 30-50 mm.

Exit holes are drilled in the cross section of the floor or ceiling frame system. Installation of electrical fittings is possible using the recessed method; for this, the channel is found with a feeler gauge and a 60-80 mm hole is drilled in the solid timber using a core drill. Installation boxes for sockets and switches should be made of steel, preferably with a fiberglass liner.

Pipe sections laid inside walls must be localized from environment. It is used for this smooth pipe: metal with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm or steel - from 1.2 mm. These values are approximate; a more accurate calculation requires taking into account the load and voltage on the line, as well as the type and number of conductors inside the shell.

For branching power lines hidden in the cavities of frame structures, it is recommended to use metal boxes. For indoor installation Protection against wood dust of a degree of at least 3 is desirable, moisture protection is not taken into account. The entry of cable line sheaths should be flared or equipped with a restrictive ring or nut that does not allow uncoupling.

4. Protective devices

Electrical installation in a wooden house can be complicated by the design features of group and distribution boards. The difference is observed both in the method of mounting the housings and in the selection of protective equipment.

The electrical panel housing must be installed on a non-combustible base. Therefore, under the central panels with ASU, it is recommended to cover the surface with tin, and when installing group panels, use linings made of textolite or fiberglass.

It is convenient to connect group panels with the ceiling and floor using a cable channel, in which usually 3-4 lines are laid for each room. It is not recommended to place shields close to the ceiling or floor.

Circuit breakers are selected according to the permissible continuous current for the cable on the outgoing line; the choice is always made towards a lower rating. Equipment that does not have internal short circuit protection, as well as lines with a fixed maximum load ( ovens, air conditioners) are connected via circuit breaker with a nominal power consumption and a low response delay during overload (characteristics B and A).

In wooden houses, it is customary to lay wiring according to a three-wire circuit, where the protective conductor is not connected to the neutral conductor. For this reason, the installation of differential protection against electric shock may be accompanied by false alarms. But the diffavtomat fire-fighting type, which monitors insulation leaks will be very useful.

5. Installation of installation products and fittings

At the final stage, the finishing electrical installation is carried out. This is most easily done using non-recessed fittings. It is quite easy to screw it to a wooden wall with a pair of screws, after inserting it into the housing and connecting the wires.

Much more time and effort is spent on installing hidden (recessed) fittings. To tightly fit the frames, a flat surface is required, so the logs are pre-ground with a plane. Next, a hole is made connecting the surface with the hidden channel. It is used as a centering tool when drilling an installation niche with a core cutter.

It is characteristic that installation boxes can be embedded in the same way as in stone walls— by landing on alabaster. Otherwise, the area must be contained and connected to the cable duct with a non-flammable rigid sleeve.

During construction timber houses in the Russian climate, wall insulation is prerequisite for a comfortable stay. Our winters are too harsh, so an uninsulated building will force the owner to freeze or pay incredible amounts for heating. But when choosing materials for wall cladding, you want the wood to maintain its healthy microclimate as much as possible. Unfortunately, many insulation materials, having high thermal insulation characteristics, are not “friendly” with the timber, causing it to “suffocate”. And in a couple of years they will lead the wood to a deplorable state. Let's consider what materials should be used to insulate a log house so that the rooms are warm and the walls are ventilated.

Video about insulating wooden houses using the “Warm seam” technology

Which is better: insulating a house made of timber from the outside or from the inside

The main rule of the builder: plan everything in advance, so as not to have to deal with alterations later. Therefore, start thinking about insulating a house made of timber when creating a project. First, decide: you will sheathe the inside or the outside.

What are the benefits of insulating a log house from the inside?

If the house is new, then many owners do not want to hide the wood texture under the finishing, because it is beautiful in itself. In addition, insulating a house made of timber from the inside is beneficial for monitoring the condition of the wood. The owner will have time to notice places where the walls begin to collapse or rot in time and will take measures to “treat” and strengthen the protection of the tree.

Flaws internal insulation walls

And yet, insulation of a log house from the inside is used less often than from the outside. Firstly, it steals a lot of useful living space. That is why this point must be thought through during design in order to calculate the square footage of the rooms, taking into account insulation. But if the foundation is already in place, you will have to put up with the fact that the rooms will become more cramped, or install timber insulation for the walls from the outside.

Secondly, builders do not recommend insulating a log house from the inside, because the wood will be in direct contact with the cold. And when winters begin, the dew point will shift to inner side wood At the slightest error in ventilation, the wood will begin to rot inside the pie, and you will notice this only when the fungus eats right through the beam.

Advantages of external insulation

The main advantage of insulating a log house from the outside is the correct distribution of materials for the release of internal vapors. By building regulations materials are laid from low-permeable to highly permeable. So that steam, penetrating into them, can disappear more easily. Wood has a denser structure than insulation (only properly chosen!) and a diffusion membrane, so the steam will not settle in the thickness of the cake, but will evaporate in the ventilation gap. In the case of internal lining, steam will easily penetrate through the insulation, but it will not always break through the wood, because it will have time to cool down and the molecules will move less easily.

When making a choice in favor of external or internal insulation, you should weigh the pros and cons of the chosen thermal insulation method

In addition, for old buildings in which wooden walls already look unpresentable, insulating the log house from the outside is a more profitable option. You will simultaneously insulate the house and embellish it through finishing. Well, the usable area of the premises will not be affected.

Disadvantages of insulating outside

If you decide to insulate a timber house from the outside, you will lose the opportunity to monitor the condition of the wood. Therefore it is necessary to adhere the right technology installation and find professional builders so that the walls covered with finishing remain healthy even without your control.

Nuances of internal insulation of a log house

If you nevertheless choose the option of internal insulation, then even this can be made as safe as possible for the “health” of the wood. To do this, you need to buy a suitable, well-ventilated insulation, whose vapor permeability and composition will coincide with the properties of the timber.

Expanded polystyrene materials disappear immediately: they are poorly permeable to moisture. They cannot be used for either internal or external insulation, because condensation will begin to form at the junction with the wood.

At high level heat-saving polystyrene foam insulation is not recommended for wood, as it does not allow the house to breathe

Basalt and fiberglass materials have excellent vapor permeability, and with proper ventilation, moisture will evaporate from them. The only negative is its unnatural origin. All of them emit harmful substances to some extent, and their structure contains many suspended microparticles. When you shake the slab, you can see how the air around is filled with tiny fragments of insulation, and they can settle on a person, causing discomfort. With normal ventilation, some of the suspended matter will end up inside the house, and you will be forced to breathe it. If you block their exit into the house with an impenetrable film, then the entire healing microclimate of the tree will disappear.

During installation mineral wool use respirators, and you will have to breathe suspended particles inside the house

The most beneficial for maintaining environmentally clean air The rooms will have flax fiber and soft fiberboard. Both insulation materials are of natural origin, so they are ideal for the structure of timber walls.

Eco-insulating materials for wood

Flax fiber

It is a slab consisting of 85 percent flax fibers and 15 binder fibers. Linen is known for its antiseptic properties, which are also preserved in insulation. Those. fungi and bacteria will not settle in it. When cutting and installing, linen insulation will not generate dust. It does not deteriorate its thermal insulation properties when saturated with vapors, therefore it does not require a vapor barrier layer during installation. Well ventilated and does not cause allergies.

Flax fiber does not contain suspended particles, so it will be safe to breathe in the house

It's made from wood chips coniferous trees, forming into slabs with environmentally friendly binders. Absorbs sound well and allows vapor to pass through. Possesses unique property saturate vapors when rooms are too humid and release them back if the air is too dry. Maintains the maximum acceptable level of indoor humidity for humans: 40-60%.

Soft fiberboard is a material identical to wood, so they work perfectly together

Some installation aspects

When using soft fiberboard, no sheathing is needed. The insulation is glued to the timber or taken with self-tapping screws. The wall turns out to be smooth, so it is plastered, covering the joints of the slabs with reinforcing mesh, and then painted. You can immediately glue wallpaper onto fiberboard.

When using flax fiber, a vertical sheathing is created by filling it directly onto the timber. Insulation boards are placed in it, secured with dowel-umbrellas. Metal profiles are placed on top of the sheathing and the walls are covered with plasterboard. Due to the metal profiles, a ventilation gap is formed in the wall, through which the moisture that gets into the insulated beam will go under the roof or down and erode. Please note that when using flax fiber, vapor barrier films are not installed so as not to disrupt natural air circulation.

How to insulate a timber house from the outside

Most often we see on video the insulation of a timber house from the outside. Such cladding is installed using the technology of creating ventilated facades, because the main requirement for preserving healthy wood is high-quality ventilation.

The choice of insulation in this case is wider than with interior lining. You can use any fiberglass or basalt insulation, because the laminated timber itself will be an obstacle for their small particles. The main thing is to use slabs rather than rolls, because they are more rigid and do not slide down over time.

: Do not select for installation roll materials, because over time they can slide down

But before you insulate a house made of timber, decide on a specific heat insulator. For example, if you buy mineral wool, then when creating a wall pie, it must be insulated with a film from the timber so that steam does not penetrate into the loose structure. Wet cotton wool no longer retains heat. But by attaching a vapor barrier layer to the walls, you will thereby reduce their ability to “breathe”, because moisture from the timber will be forced to return back into the house. If you buy insulation materials that are not afraid of getting wet (for example, ecowool or glass wool), then you do not need to create a vapor barrier. It is enough to protect the laminated insulated timber with a ventilation gap from the finishing sheathing and a waterproofing film. Those. your wall pie will look like this:

Beam.
Lathing with ecowool inside.
Waterproofing film (superdiffusion membrane).
Ventilation gap (filled along the sheathing wooden slats).
Finishing finishing material (lining, siding, etc.).

Ventilation slats are packed onto the sheathing, which should be set exactly level: clapboard or siding will have to be attached to it

When choosing how to insulate a log house - from the outside or from the inside, weigh the pros and cons. Look for an option that will keep the wood “healthy” and make the rooms much warmer.

Today we will talk about insulating a house made of timber. If a person has lived all his life in a Khrushchev or an ordinary brick house, then he most likely does not imagine all the charm of living in a wooden dwelling, just as they have no idea about caring for them.

One of the frequently asked questions about this concerns the fact that many do not know whether it is necessary to insulate a log house from the outside. In fact, wooden buildings can be very warm, especially those made from logs, so external heating is not always an urgent need. Thermal insulation largely depends on the thickness of the material and the tightness of the connections between the elements.

According to SNiP standards for wooden houses permanent residence The thickness of the timber for construction is needed at least 200 mm. If the building is used only as summer cottage, then material 150 mm thick will be sufficient. But if you buy such housing for year-round use, then external insulation of the house is simply necessary.

At the same time, even 200 mm of timber will not save if the connections between the beams are made incorrectly and gaps remain. There are also some disadvantages of the material that can lead to gaps and cracks over time: if not dried properly, profiled timber can become deformed, forming gaps in the joints, while glued timber is more prone to cracks from long-term use, since it absorbs moisture well.

Therefore, thermal insulation of a house made of timber becomes relevant in the following cases:

Planned to update appearance the facade or change it - sheath it with another material (most often with PVC panels), which would simultaneously protect the wooden facade and complement the exterior design.
There is a need to reduce heating costs.
Cracks have appeared in the old facade, which is why the house does not retain heat.

Features of thermal insulation of a wooden house

To thermal insulation work to bring some sense, and not just provoked expenses, you need to figure out how to properly insulate a house from a beam from the outside before starting to lay the insulation:

If finishing with thermal insulation is planned to be done immediately after construction, then it is advisable to wait 1-1.5 until the timber completely dries and shrinks.
If there are gaps and cracks in the facade, they are first sealed using wood putty, polyurethane foam, jute fiber ropes.

Don't forget about processing wooden surface antiseptics and antipyrines.
The most ideal insulation for wooden facade one that provides a dense thermal insulation layer. This must be taken into account when choosing.
Sheath wooden house better light materials, otherwise the walls and foundation will not withstand the additional load. Therefore, for these purposes, PVC panels, block houses or linings are often chosen.

How to insulate houses made of timber?

Let's look at the options for insulation for wooden buildings, which are listed in order of popularity, and at the same time find out how to insulate timber house outside using each of the materials:

Ecowool is applied using a special technique using the wet spray method (there is also dry blowing and manual method, but this one is simpler and more convenient). A 5–10 cm spray ball is sufficient (thermal conductivity of ecowool is 0.032–0.041). The layer is leveled over the sheathing and dried, after which you can.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of slabs. For insulation under siding, a slab thickness of 50 mm will be sufficient (its thermal conductivity is 0.036). It is mounted using disc dowels.

Polyurethane foam is sprayed with a special PPU gun with a reservoir in protective clothing and a mask. The thickness of the spraying can be adjusted. It is better to make 2 uniform thin layers of 5 mm each than one uneven one. The thermal conductivity of such a material is 0.023-0.041, depending on the spray density.

Expanded polystyrene boasts thermal conductivity values of 0.038-0.041. It is provided in slabs of various thicknesses, but products with a thickness of 5 cm will be sufficient for us. Installation is carried out special glue and mounting dowels.

Technology of external insulation of timber walls

For wooden buildings it is better to use, that is, when installing the sheathing and insulation, you must leave a small gap for subsequent installation of the sheathing. Plaster for finishing in in this case It is rarely used, and only if polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is used for thermal insulation.

Lathing on a wooden house for subsequent installation of thermal insulation and finishing is always made from ordinary timber with a cross section of 50/50 or 50/60 mm onto the prepared surface, that is, after sealing the cracks, treating with impregnation and marking.
The cells between the sheathing beams are filled with insulation using technology appropriate to the material. Since it is planned to install a ventilated facade, do not forget to lay a diffuse membrane over the thermal insulation, and then nail additional beams on top of the already installed ones.
Now you can begin the installation of finishing materials - block house, lining or PVC panels. To do this, use nails or screws. Start by installing the lowest panel, which is installed with the tenon facing up. The screws are screwed into this tenon. Thanks to this, the mount will be hidden from influence external environment, which also looks more aesthetically pleasing.

If it is important to you how to insulate a house made of timber from the outside, then you don’t have to skimp on materials and choose polyurethane foam, which provides a solid, dense layer of high-quality thermal insulation. But in most cases, a dense ball of ecowool followed by finishing with a thick block house will be sufficient.

The timber from which it is assembled is also used for the construction of load-bearing structures or fences. In fact, it is a log after edging on 2, 3 or 4 sides. Three-sided processing produces timber with a front side that imitates a log surface.

Types of timber

Beam and whetstone are different concepts. A diameter thickness of less than 100 mm is a block. To assemble a house, the timber must be made of pine (for better air permeability) and have a cross-section of 150x150 or 190x150 mm.

For low-rise housing construction they use:

solid timber (cheap, but burdened with long-term shrinkage in the future);
glued (high-tech, with specified beneficial properties, and therefore expensive material);
profiled (with a tongue-and-groove connection installed during processing - this removes the internal pressure leading to cracking of the wood).

Profiled timber is made from solid wood or glued from lamella boards. The last option has no drawbacks and belongs to premium-class building materials. This type of lumber differs and by surface treatment method:

profiled timber (German) - “comb”;
profiled timber (Finnish) - with two tenons for connection;
profiled timber with cups - grooves for corner joints;
timber with a smooth front surface;
timber with a convex front surface.

What makes timber the preferred material in private housing construction?

Design-friendly appearance, the ability to play with color and texture.
Simplicity and waste-free construction.
Factory surface treatment suitable for applying finishing materials (drying oils, paints).
Environmentally friendly construction while maintaining a healthy microclimate.
Superior performance properties over rounded logs.
Comparative efficiency.

All appearing later flaws houses made of timber are a consequence of violations of the production technology of this material.

No matter how carefully the walls made of profiled timber are assembled, it is impossible to avoid loose fit and cracks. They make the house ventilated and permeable to low temperatures.

Therefore, an important stage of construction is the correct insulation of a house made of timber - internal and external.

Insulation of a house made of profiled timber

Traditional tow has now become effective competitors: jute, linen wool, ecowool, mineral wool slabs, fiberglass, expanded polystyrene, thermobasalt. To evenly distribute the insulation between the crowns, tapes made of fibrous materials in the form of a non-woven fabric are used, which are attached to the wood with a stapler or glue.

In choosing insulation worth following not only its heat-saving properties, but also its susceptibility to open fire, fungal and mold damage.

What is meant by “insulation of a wooden house”

Insulating a house made of timber can mean simply protection from blowing, or protection from the penetration of cold air. And we can consider this process as a set of conservation measures internal heat in winter conditions. Each target installation will require different insulation materials, different technologies implementation of this stage of construction, varying degrees of complexity of the measures taken.

The most simple insulation is caulking the inter-crown cracks. It is carried out in 2 stages: in the first (during the assembly period) pieces of tow are placed between a pair of beams, in the second (after the house shrinks) - the tow is tucked into the cracks with a special spatula using a hammer. The process is simple, but labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Insulating the house from the inside

Whatever insulation is used in this case, its primary task of preserving heat is certainly combined with sound insulation from the external environment. Insulating the walls inside should not significantly reduce the size of the premises, so insulation boards are chosen no thicker than 3 cm. They are provided environmental Safety and resistance to destruction by rodents. On top of the insulation, the walls are usually lined with plasterboard.

Technology for proper insulation of a house made of timber from the outside

Work on insulating a timber house from the outside begins with checking the quality of the joints after reaching the natural moisture content of the timber, selecting a heat insulator and calculating its required thickness (up to 7 cm). Now there is a convenient opportunity to make calculations using an online calculator on the Internet.

Worth considering that insulation work will not greatly affect the dimensions, but can change the appearance of the building beyond recognition, so it is necessary to immediately decide on the type of future cladding (plaster, siding, false beams) and the intended finishing work.

External insulation can be done in the following way:

arrange a suspended ventilated façade;
insulate the outside with polyurethane spraying;
insulate with polystyrene foam.

Required tools for insulation work.

Tape measure and plumb level.
Hacksaw.
Self-tapping screws.
Ladder or scaffolding.
Lumber for sheathing.

Sequence of work on installing a suspended ventilated facade

If the timber used in construction was dry, then the curtain wall can begin to be made immediately after the construction of the log house.

First of all, you need to seal the inter-crown cracks (see “caulking”).
The sheathing begins to be assembled from a frame made of bars (50x70 according to the height of the insulation). They are fastened to the wall vertically with nails, in increments along the width of the insulation.
Using ventilated facade technology, the lathing is made in two levels to obtain a gap of 3 cm between the insulation and the finishing coating.
Insulation boards are laid end-to-end between the sheathing structures.
A special material (diffuse membrane) is stretched, fastened to the sheathing with a construction stapler.
Strengthen the finishing material of the facade.

This type of insulation makes the façade stable to any type of atmospheric phenomena, prevents rotting and molding, preserves the ability of wooden walls to “breathe”.

Insulation by spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam- polymer No. 1 adheres well to a clean, oil-free surface. Applied in several passes with special equipment under pressure in a layer of 50 mm on a wall made of timber, it forms a moisture-proof film without seams or cracks and closes the pores of the wood. This covering is removed under the curtain wall made of finishing material.

The method is very simple and economical, it is carried out without lifting mechanisms and scaffolding. A significant advantage is resistance to open fire, the duration of preservation of heat-protective qualities, resistance to rotting processes and the effects of bacteria.

However, it is necessary to provide when designing a house ventilation system, effectively problem solving vapor permeability of polyurethane film.

Foam insulation

Insulation of a log house with polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) can be done both inside and outside. This is an inexpensive and effective material to use. For insulation work take slabs 5 cm thick and special glue.

Starting profiles are attached horizontally to clean, dry walls below to prevent the cladding from slipping.
Glue is applied both to the foam and to the gluing site, lubricating the joints.
Work is carried out from the bottom up.
The drying time of the glue is 3 days.
After drying, the foam is further strengthened with special dowels.
Subsequent work is carried out after priming the layer.

Shrinkage of profile timber up to 3-4% occurs in the first six months to a year.
When working with insulation, it is important to observe safety measures: eye protection - goggles, hand protection - mittens, respiratory protection - respirator.
The insulation material must not be stored under open air: Getting wet will reduce its heat-protective properties.
Insulation boards can be installed by surprise without additional fasteners if the distance between the sheathing elements is reduced by 1.5 cm.
Spray insulation can be done at temperatures not lower than 10 degrees.
Organic insulation materials are susceptible to destruction by rodents.

The ancient method of building houses from wooden beams has become popular again these days. Now such buildings play a role not only country houses, but also full-fledged housing for year-round living. Well, in order to keep a wooden house warm in winter, it needs to be insulated. We will talk about how to properly insulate a timber house in this article.

As a rule, wooden buildings are usually insulated with outside. This allows you not to hide the interior space of the premises, and also prevents the wood from rotting. Insulation of a timber house from the outside is necessary for several reasons:

Thermal insulation of the building protects the walls from heat loss and reduces heating costs.
An insulated house is not afraid high humidity, severe frost and other unfavorable environmental factors.
While thermally protecting the walls, you can simultaneously install siding, which will allow you to change the appearance of the house at the owner’s request.
As already mentioned, external insulation does not reduce the internal space of rooms.

When performing such work, it is important to consider several points:

choose the right thermal insulating material, calculate its thickness and required amount;
strictly follow the installation technology;
do not forget about creating a hydro- and vapor barrier layer;
properly treat wooden walls to protect them from insects, fungi, combustion and other harmful influences.

Insulation for a log house must meet certain requirements:

be of high quality and durable;
easy to process and install;
safe for health, environmentally friendly;
don't burn.

So that the insulation of a timber house is effective, and the building serves you long years, listen to the following recommendations:

Never use raw material. The insulation must be dry and pre-treated with an antiseptic. If you cover the walls wet material, the wood will begin to mold, rot, and collapse. Fungi and microorganisms will grow in it, and after a while the beams will simply become unusable.
Insulate walls wooden house possible only after the building has completely settled. Such shrinkage usually takes at least 1.5 years. If the building is sheathed earlier, the cladding will become deformed as a result of subsidence of the logs.
Mount heat insulating material only on prepared walls. This means that all deep cracks and chips must be covered with putty, and the wood itself must be impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

How to insulate a timber house from the outside: creating a curtain wall

Among the methods of thermal insulation of log buildings, the construction of a ventilated facade is considered the most popular method, the reason for this is the advantages of this method:

the curtain wall façade is easy to install and requires relatively little time to work;
after insulation, the walls can be lined with various decorative materials: clapboard, porcelain stoneware, siding, boards, slatted profiles, etc.;
this method of insulation does not allow the walls to mold and collapse, the dew point moves beyond the outer wall;
resistance to temperature changes, humidity, precipitation, as well as excellent sound insulation are also among the undeniable advantages of a hinged ventilated façade;
this design is durable, its service life reaches 50 years;
By insulating walls you reduce energy costs for heating.

External insulation of a timber house in a similar way can be described as follows:

So that moisture does not accumulate in the wood of the walls, between the insulation layer and the decorative finishing material make a gap, which is why such a facade is called ventilated. To create an air space, sheathing is installed on the wall. To make it, marks are first placed on the surface where the beams will subsequently be attached. The width between them should correspond to the width of the sheets insulation material, and the thickness of the beams is selected depending on the thickness of the mats.
Having placed the marks, the logs are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws. The evenness of the sheathing is checked using a building level and plumb line. It is especially important to ensure that all the beams are located in the same plane - this will help subsequently make beautiful, even and high-quality siding.
When the sheathing elements are secured, sheets of insulation are laid between them. They are pressed tightly against the walls and secured with dowels.
To provide the necessary air space, they nail on top of the sheathing and insulating layer. wooden planks. Their thickness should be such that the gap is at least 5 cm.
After laying the insulation, finishing is done with decorative siding.

Insulating a house with sprayed materials

Instead of sheet insulation You can also use sprayed insulation, for example, ecowool or polyurethane foam. Ecowool is a cellulosic substance made from recycled paper, borax and boric acid. The advantages of this material can be considered:

environmental friendliness and hygiene;
good resistance to moisture;
excellent thermal insulation and sound insulation qualities;
fire safety;
non-toxic;
waste-free use;
excellent vapor permeability;
ability to fill even the smallest cracks in walls.

Ecowool has the form of a crumbly mass pressed into briquettes. Before use, such briquettes are opened, their contents are poured out and dried.

If you want to use polyurethane foam as insulation, check out the advantages of this material:

like ecowool, polyurethane foam is fireproof;
it has good sound and heat insulation properties;
considered an environmentally friendly type of finishing;
its service life is quite long, and during this entire period the material does not lose its properties;
polyurethane foam is not subject to rotting, mold does not form on it, and is not damaged by insects and microorganisms;
ease of installation due to the fact that it does not require the use of special fasteners.

To insulate walls using the spraying method, you will have to acquire special equipment. You can buy it, or you can rent it and save money. The process itself looks like this:

Even before purchasing material, you should calculate its required quantity. To do this, measurements are made of the area of the working base, and the consumption of sprayed insulation is also taken into account.
Then on the wall of a log house with outside install the sheathing from wooden planks or metal profile. Subsequently, decorative finishing material can be attached to this crate.
Using a special installation, ecowool or polyurethane foam moistened with water is sprayed between the beams of the sheathing. Often, when soaking cotton wool, adhesives are added to water, which will allow the insulation to adhere more firmly to the surface.
After treating the walls of the house with a pneumatic sprayer, the material is left until it hardens completely.
After this, the excess insulation is cut off with a knife, and siding is installed on top of the sheathing.

Insulation of a timber house from the outside, video:

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside

Is it worth insulating a wooden house from the inside?

Few people decide to install insulation on inner surface walls of a log building. Insulating a log house from the inside is not popular for several reasons:

This method of thermal insulation of a building can lead to the accumulation of moisture in the walls, which is why the wood will rot, mold and collapse. It is highly undesirable to use this method in baths and saunas, where the air is constantly saturated with water vapor. In winter, when the wood freezes, the dew point is located between the walls and the insulating layer, as a result, condensation accumulates there, which destroys the structure. If you create it in the house good system ventilation, then such problems can be eliminated.
The second reason why walls log houses rarely insulated from the inside, lies in the loss usable area. The space of the rooms decreases by at least 3-4 cm on each side, and this is especially noticeable in small rooms.
The insulation layer also hides the natural beauty log house, which lovers of natural interiors do not like.

However, sometimes owners of wooden houses resort to this method for various reasons. Some, for example, do not want to hide the appearance of the house under a layer of insulation and siding. Someone wants to line the interior walls with some kind of decorative material. Regardless of the reasons, the technology of internal insulation of premises should be conscientiously observed so as not to spoil wooden beams and not shorten the life of the building.

What is the best way to insulate a timber house from the inside?

For thermal insulation of internal walls, you should select only environmentally friendly materials that will not release toxic substances into the air. For example, polystyrene foam is not suitable for such a purpose for several reasons. Firstly, it is not vapor permeable and does not allow the walls to “breathe”. The room turns out to be completely isolated, there is no necessary natural air exchange. Secondly, polystyrene foam releases very toxic substances into the air during combustion, so in the event of a fire it is considered an extremely dangerous material.

You can thermally insulate walls with mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly and does not burn, has good vapor permeability, and high thermal insulation characteristics. The most significant disadvantage of such insulation is that small particles are released into the air, which pose a danger to the respiratory tract. If the cotton wool is covered with a layer of film and finishing, then this minus can be ignored.

Very often, completely environmentally friendly and safe materials in all respects are used for internal wall insulation: flax, jute, wool. Such insulation means are economical and effective, protect the building from the cold and extraneous sounds, provide good air exchange through wooden walls.

How to insulate a timber house from the inside with your own hands

The first step is to carefully inspect the walls for cracks, chips, damage, and the quality of the caulk. All defects are eliminated, cracks are covered with putty. Dirt and dust are removed from the logs, after which the beams are impregnated with antiseptic compounds. If electrical wiring runs along the walls, it is also checked and, if necessary, repaired.
After drying antiseptic impregnation the cracks in the walls are caulked. For this purpose, jute fiber is used, which is inserted into the gaps using a chisel.
Before insulating a log house, it is also important to take care of creating a vapor barrier. To prevent the thermal insulation material from getting wet, it is customary to cover it on both sides with a layer of vapor barrier film. Because of this, the humidity in the rooms will increase. To avoid this, you should arrange good ventilation in the house.
When laying vapor barrier material, it is placed with the smooth side facing the wood so that moisture from the logs does not saturate the insulation.
The next stage is installation of the sheathing. Along load-bearing walls stuffed wooden blocks or metal profiles. The pitch between the boards should be equal to the width of the mats of the heat-insulating coating. Mounted in the corners of the room corner posts so that the corners are smooth and beautiful. The sheathing is fixed to the walls using self-tapping screws, and its evenness is checked using a level. If wood is used for the frame, it, like the walls themselves, is also impregnated with antiseptics.
Sheets of insulation, for example, mineral wool, are laid between the sheathing parts. A fragment of the required length is cut from a roll of material and installed between profiles or bars. It is desirable that the width of the sheet be 1-2 cm greater than the distance between the frame parts. When expanded, the cotton wool fills the entire space and does not require additional fastening. If the insulation itself does not hold very securely, you can fix it with dowels.
Another layer is laid on top of the mineral wool vapor barrier film. Its fragments are laid overlapping and connected with tape at the joints. The vapor barrier is nailed to the insulation with a stapler. Remember also that the film should be placed with the rough side facing internal space rooms.
The final stage of work - finishing walls The easiest way is to install sheets of plasterboard on top of the sheathing, after which they can be painted or covered decorative plaster or cover it with wallpaper.