How to properly install an air conditioner in an apartment: layout diagrams. Useful information about installing air conditioners with your own hands What you need to buy air conditioning installations

Today we will discuss how to install an air conditioner with your own hands, regarding the outdoor unit. Wait a minute to call the climber, let's try not to fall out of the window. In fact, the air conditioner is started using the reserve accumulated by the system. Freon is initially accumulated by the external unit; after docking, the refrigerant is released. It is advisable to measure the temperature difference between the boiling point and the low pressure side vapors of the air conditioning compressor. The collector contains for different brands freon scale, equipped with the necessary information (first parameter). The second is measured with your own hands... Let's see how to install an air conditioner yourself.

Sequence of actions when installing an air conditioner

The responsible part determines the location of the outdoor unit. Enthusiasts suggest equipping balconies with a box. Avoid installing an air conditioner without forgetting to evaluate its future performance. The length of the air conditioner communications is strictly specified. Install copper tubes, as much as the kit provides. The difference will cause a slight change in channel pressure, causing the air conditioner to go beyond the permissible limits:

1. Freon pressure is too low and cannot withstand operating temperatures. The cooling process of the air conditioning compressor will be disrupted, causing increased wear and tear on the unit.
2. Excessively high pressure raises the boiling point of freon. Some of the liquid phase will enter the air conditioning compressor, causing damage.

Masters sometimes monitor the freon pressure of the air conditioner circuit using a barometer scale, a more accurate temperature method. A manifold is connected to the inlet of the external unit on the low pressure side (thick tube), and the boiling point is found using a scale with marks. It is enough to measure the vapor temperature (tube temperature), making a conclusion about excess/insufficient freon mass. Professional craftsmen cut the tubes with a tool, roll the ends, after putting on the nuts, and carry out the installation on site. If necessary, copper wiring is increased by soldering.

Couplings are used - tubes of larger diameter. There is a flaring tool to a specific length. The tube with the treated end is put on the other.

The soldered seam comes out alone, doubling the reliability of the connection. It’s clear that you won’t be able to flare the tube without a tool; the clutch method is more suitable for ordinary people. Before soldering, the ends are cleaned and leveled to avoid foreign bodies getting inside, which would impede the operation of the compressor (the equipment will simply break if a solid gets inside).

The tubes begin to lead the inner block towards the outer one, breaking through the walls in places. The junction points are isolated (as is the freon flow path). The drainage tube and the power cable of the external unit (through the internal one) go in one bundle. The copper tubes are simply screwed on with a given tension, the drainage tubes are overlapped and wrapped with plumbing tape (fumilenta, fumilenta). The electrical wire is mounted in place, behind the terminal lugs. The device is powerful; it is not recommended to plug the air conditioner into a typical outlet. They lay the wire of the 230 volt network distribution panel and carry out installation using standard methods. On the block. Try to avoid twists.

Copper tubes are connected to the external unit with nuts according to thickness. The high pressure side is thinner. You will find the low pressure side service pipe by looking for a thick tube. Let's take a closer look at the joint. At the bottom of the left side of the external block there are a pair of L-shaped pipes. At the end of each there is a cover (hex key) hiding a bronze fitting (faucet). Both pipes are initially closed, and freon is collected inside the external unit.

Vacuum Tool

Before starting refueling, evacuate the system. The step frees the freon path from moisture and air. Vacuuming is carried out with a compressor (vacuum pump) until the pressure drops to zero. Then the device will work for some time (5 minutes), ensuring that condensation is removed if any has settled in the evaporator. Then you need to turn off the manifold tap. It's time to carefully release the freon. The valve of the thin tube of the external unit opens first, then the thick one. The pressure should gradually equalize, start the compressor. The adequacy of the freon quantity is assessed. The difference between the boiling point and the vapor temperature is within the range of 5-8 degrees Celsius. The difference is less than acceptable - there is too much refrigerant. Exceeding 8 degrees requires adding from a cylinder required quantity, controlling the temperature.

In a two-position manifold, a container with freon is connected in place of the pump. Moreover, you need to bleed the air from the connecting tube by opening the right valve of the manifold for a second. Then they start refueling. Rosenberger installers say: it is useful to turn the cylinder upside down, unless the freon is R22. Soldering is carried out with a silver alloy of at least 5% content, or another suitable flux. Tin and copper, or any other metal, form an electrochemical couple; when operating, avoid contact with water.

Refilling air conditioner with freon

Like in a water heater tank, the corrosion process will begin. Therefore, leaks will be possible. It’s not dangerous, like in the gas industry, you just have to call the service team to refuel. Some freons are poisonous, others destroy the ozone layer. If a leak occurs, the concentration does not reach explosive levels.

Installation of an external air conditioner unit

Leaving aside climbers and lone heroes, installing an air conditioner on a wall will be difficult for the average person. Let's watch. A typical external unit fits in the middle of the windows of a typical high-rise, with 30 cm from any frame to the bracket. A short distance by the standards of an adult. Without effort, a man can make a hole in a wall with a hammer drill and hammer in anchors. Complexity can be caused by chemical anchors, under which it is necessary to thoroughly clean the hole before laying the adhesive.

However, the techniques are rarely used. Traditional steel anchors of four or more pieces are more often used. The bracket is simple, reminiscent of the letter G. The external unit of the air conditioner is attached to the shelves of two parts with four bolts - two on each side. It is important to get the fastenings, then you can put aside your fears. Similarly, the process of docking and starting the system is carried out from the left window. Better than bending over with the key, kissing the windowsill, risking falling out.

Type of installation of the outdoor unit

Installation under a window, which has become standard, has one significant advantage: it is relatively easy to install the external air conditioner unit. It is difficult to tighten the bolts (it takes a long time), opening/closing the valves is a problem. Consequently, dismantling rusted fasteners is not easy. It is dangerous to stick your head out without insurance. In the case of installation between windows, the first difficulty is the process of installing the external unit on the brackets. Residents want to cool down their apartment in the summer, and a stack of external units is piled on top.

It is easier to install an air conditioner on the balcony; nowhere in the legislation can you find a ban. There are rumors - because the authorities were too lazy to create an information and legal portal - it is forbidden to install an external unit on an insulated loggia! If there are three windows, one is directly opposite the equipment, it seems that you can install it. We apologize for the legal confusion. Apparently, the authorities think that since ignorance of the law does not relieve one from responsibility, there is no need to educate the people. Perhaps a fool will break it - it will be possible to file an administrative case. Don't believe me? Try to find in a search engine the number of the law regulating the installation, excluding general words about the need for approval (on the facade). The authors quit after a half-hour study.

There was definitely a law, there are rumors: the text was repealed in 2013, forum users are wondering what will be non-compliance with the norms. It is useless to ask lawyers; lawyers shrug their shoulders. The regulatory framework of the city of Moscow is more pleasing: the documents are available, but in the first edition. It is incredibly difficult to understand, following the amendments, where to add new lines, to read the fragment. Therefore, let’s say: in 2007, residents were required to approve the installation of any engineering equipment on the facades; God knows what next. Therefore, the question of how to install an air conditioner with your own hands would begin with the regulatory framework, then go through the options. Please note: the installer is not at all interested in the installation; the homeowner is responsible.

We hope we have clarified how to install an air conditioner yourself. We recommend that the most ardent readers visit mosopen.ru themselves. The confusion and confusing interpretation of legal terms makes it surprising that legality exists.

Step-by-step video of air conditioner installation

The cost of installing an air conditioner is high. Grows in parallel with power. The issue was discussed in detail, how the purpose of the mysterious letters that dotted the tables of installation companies, today we will see what the workers are doing, that installing an air conditioner with your own hands becomes a complex matter, difficult from a financial point of view. There is a difference between the models of different companies, but it is not significant. That's why installing a Mitsubishi air conditioner is not much different from a Samsung. It’s clear that the Koreans are now promoting quiet, durable inverter motors; it’s worth looking at the warranty first. Today washing machines, refrigerators are equipped with a 10-year warranty card. Long term, according to our considerations, a good air conditioner cools longer: you pay more, the installation cost is steep.

Car air conditioner

Let's decide where to install the air conditioner. The first step, Samsung experts recommend... is to check the markings of the outdoor unit, outdoor unit, and box for a match. If you mistakenly placed the wrong unit, you cannot begin installing the air conditioner. The indoor unit is mounted on a special large plate. However, there are some nuances here:

1. Floor-standing indoor units are deprived of the right to bear the name because they hang. The distance to the parquet should not exceed 15 cm. The mounting plate (bracket fastening) changes appearance from a solid steel base to a plank. The upper edge of the indoor unit of the air conditioner is mainly attached.
2. Cassette indoor air conditioner units are popular due to the possibility of being built into suspended ceiling. It is necessary to calculate the strength of the ceiling so that it does not kill employees, to provide the necessary indentations and an aesthetic appearance. Fastening is carried out with four threaded pins, driven deeper into the concrete onto nuts through shock-absorbing washers. If the dampers are removed and the upper wall of the indoor unit of the air conditioner is allowed to come into contact with the ceiling, the level of vibration and noise will increase, negatively affecting the working and living atmosphere; it is simply prohibited by laws and standards to make a lot of noise. The topic of damping devices for fans was raised; those interested will study the relevant section.

The indoor unit hangs over your head. Calculating the height of the air conditioner is useless. The only thing is that it is necessary to maintain the distances from the walls and ceiling specified in the instructions. When installing the base plate, a building level is used to ensure the correct angles are maintained. It is especially important to strengthen the pins of the cassette unit and position the unit strictly horizontally. In the latter case, fixation is carried out with locknuts. The installation process of a wall-mounted indoor unit does not cause any problems. The body is simply hung on a prepared bracket.

Air conditioner communications

The indoor and outdoor units are connected by a bundle of communications, including:

The cable is stretched from the shield of the external unit to the internal shield, which contains the labeled terminals. Each ear is put on phase, ground, neutral. The cable is used for outdoor use and is more expensive than conventional PVC. There is one grounding conductor. It was explained that the neutral wire and the ground are different things, avoid confusion, changing places, turning a blind eye would be the wrong tactic. When conducting three phases, purchase a 5-core cable. The output currents are added up, the nuance is taken into account when selecting the wire. If one vein is thicker, a null (not earth) is found. We take into account the nuances when choosing a circuit breaker; typical fuses will prevent an accident.

As for the electrics of air conditioners, typical lugs are used. If it is necessary to install wires of non-standard length, we will extend them ourselves. The copper tube comes complete, the ends are cut off, and the inside is chamfered with a suitable tool. Fastening is carried out with nuts. To flare the end, a special tool is used to bend the tube outward into a cone. Afterwards, the nuts are screwed on coaxially and tightened with a wrench. Use the tools at hand. Take it adjustable wrench, avoid gas ones. No seals a typical installation does not provide air conditioning, the tightening force is indicated in the manual. Each tube is covered with a jacket, preventing heat exchange; both, along with the wire and drainage tube, are wound together. Copper tubes of unequal diameter, simplifying installation.

On the reverse side of the indoor unit there are pipes, each of its own diameter, closed with plugs. Please note: when pulling communications through walls, the nuts placed on flared tubes are covered with plastic inserts so that plaster does not get inside. The drainage tube is simply pressed together and wrapped with insulating tape on top. DIY air conditioner installation continues outside, where the bulky unit sometimes has to be placed on a support high above the ground. Please note: Although there is a manual, installation will require a blueprint. The work is carried out to make sure that the walls will withstand the load, theoretically. In practice, the designer simply makes money.

The distance between the indoor and outdoor units along communications does not exceed 5 meters. Deviation from the rule makes the installation non-standard, adding cost. The maximum length of communications is indicated by the passport. As planned, the drainage goes down to the ground, copper pipes reach the outdoor unit. In practice, they forget to do this, so the condensation irrigates the underlying objects.

Refilling the air conditioner

There are rumors: sometimes there is freon inside the outdoor unit... I wanted more confidence, the installation manual gives a comprehensive answer, the taps are closed tightly...

Procedure for refilling the air conditioner:

1. First, inspect the correct installation. Both pipes have taps hidden under screw caps; avoid touching the fittings. One connector (usually thick) has an input for the filling manifold. We connect the left hose, crown the central one with a vacuum pump.
2. Opening the left valve, pump out the air, wait until the arrow shows 0, continue for 15 minutes. Let's close the tap. Instead of a pump, we connect a freon cylinder to fill the air conditioner.
3. It's time to take the covers off end valves external block. Under them there are sockets, often hexagonal in shape, which are unscrewed with a special key (reminiscent of the fittings of a folding bicycle made in the USSR). To install the air conditioner yourself, turn the taps to maximum. Maintaining the position, we will carry out operation, carefully return the covers.
4. Open the left manifold tap, the filling cylinder valve. Refueling is carried out based on weight. Although there are schemes (discussed above) that measure the temperature difference by releasing freon from the external unit into the circuit.

The refueling was completed, the calculation of the air conditioner power was carried out by the portal. A representative of a small class of devices that demonstrate an efficiency above 1 (much).

GOST 26963

It starts with permission. The devices clinging to the wall of the house are coordinated with numerous organizations. First of all, the owner. A person has the right to sell an apartment, not apartment house, many people live. Before installing an air conditioner, you will need to obtain permission; (before approval), make sure that the project is obtained from a certified organization. Undocumented work is illegal. Do you like the schedule? Some regions have seen a horror story: teams authorized by the administration are ironing the streets, dismantling unauthorized equipment. If you install an air conditioner secretly, a tower will come and remove the product. It’s difficult to describe the return procedure, torture the lawyers harshly. In the country, some people are more equal than others, so avoid looking up to your neighbors...

According to GOST 26963, the installation of an air conditioner is limited by the operating instructions. Really simple? You take it, install it, but a bunch of regulations prohibiting the installation of an air conditioner (as well as other equipment) are kept silent:

• if the house is an architectural monument;
• if the building adorns the central street with its facade;
• if the building has artistic value...

The list of restrictions is long, we are embarrassed to describe the difficulties, we recommend simply perplexing the local administration. If you want to damage the wall of a high-rise building, it will be enough to get permission from the HOA. For example, an antenna requires the consent of 100% of the residents of the house... just. You cannot go on someone else's property without permission. In practice, few people pay attention.

Now the power. You know, in installation companies, the value is marked with numbers in the range 07-30. Moreover, an increase in the number raises the cost of work to heaven. Why are people interested in installing air conditioning themselves? For example, for new owners of 30 models, installer services will amount to 20,000 rubles. It is clear that a rare dude wants to pay the amount, or wants to know the direction in which the money is flowing. Firstly, power. Most helplessly bite their elbows, trying to correctly calculate the parameter.

Installer 90 lvl

Exist online calculators, ready-made Excel programs that allow you to get the desired figure by entering a couple of numbers. Size of the room, number of printers, copiers, etc. household appliances. The beauty of Excel is the ability to embellish calculations with custom values ​​by specifying power. Readers guessed it: the cooling capacity of the air conditioner is designed to recoup the excess heat generated by the equipment.

How much power is required from an air conditioner?

In light of the above, before installing an air conditioner, try to assess the cooling production needs. Boiler power calculation programs can help. The results can be used to calculate heating and air conditioning. Heat loss goes in the direction of decreasing temperature through the walls. Moreover, the value is proportional to the difference, the resistance of building structures. Procedure:

Please note that the calculation is carried out if you fail by searching for an air conditioner calculation program. The required figure is immediately given in BTU/1000 (graded in the range 07-20 and above). Marking contains required parameter, so interesting to buyers and installers. Let's convert BTU/1000 to kW. You need to multiply BTU by 0.2931, you get the desired figure. Heating boilers are calculated in kW. We also mention BTU - British Thermal Unit, in English it sounds like British Thermal Unit.

Now readers know, “seven” is equivalent to 2.0 kW, “nine” – 2.5 kW. We emphasize that the figure has an indirect connection with energy consumption. Every good air conditioner will produce more cold than it will consume network electricity. This is the basis for the idea of ​​heat pumps, however, regular readers of the portal should know and advise the authors. The calculation procedure was explained. We hope that readers will help each other with links to online resources... Visit the section regarding boilers and heaters, which provides the necessary addresses along with explanations of the process of using calculators.

I have never seen programs that take into account the presence of people. If the room is filled with a group, for each person we will add 100 watts of air conditioning power, how many BTUs will be, do the math! For gyms, we will increase the figure to 300 W; people do physical labor, which means the air conditioner will have to work harder. 80% of the energy expended by an athlete is generated heat.

Types of air conditioner installation

We want to say right away: the installation of an air conditioner can be standard or non-standard. The contents of the price lists are attributed to the first case. As for additional options, you will have to find out, simultaneously overcoming the resistance of the company's technical support. Let’s say we want to install a “two-piece”, the freon circuit needs to be increased by several meters relative to the required ones. Get ready to pay extra. Tariffs of companies vary, find out specific prices.

Why is this happening. A typical air conditioner may contain freon in the external unit. The valves are tightly closed. The craftsmen select the location for installing the air conditioner and begin drilling, chiseling, pulling, and twisting. Connect the input and output tracts, drainage pipe are thrown. Before installing the external air conditioner unit, the technicians discovered that the length was exceeded.

The freon pressure is below normal, you will have to top it up - a separate hassle. After assembly, the technician will pump out the air with a vacuum pump, then simply open the valve, allowing the refrigerant to fill the system. A certain system pressure must be maintained. In air conditioners it loses importance, there are no negative temperatures on the evaporator, it’s not critical if a little steam gets inside.

The adequacy of the amount of freon is measured with a thermometer. The master opens the tap and looks at the meter readings. Refuels. At non-standard installation Sometimes freon may be needed. Volume is consumed along the length of the pipes. The air conditioner has a limitation on the length of the freon route; the issue is discussed before purchase. The situation in the country is interesting. It seems that it is written - air conditioners are installed according to the instruction manual, on the other hand, you cannot install any engineering systems at home without a project from an organization that has a license (it seems possible to carry out the project, for more details see the government decrees listing the types of activities that require a license).

Therefore, you need to go somewhere in any case. The designer will want to carry out the installation. By the way, you can clarify whether there is a practice of installing devices on the loggia. At first glance it seems stupid, in winter, when heating is required, the operating conditions of the compressor will become softer. Thus, we have no doubt: most readers can install the air conditioner correctly. However, the law requires a design, even if the drawing is redrawn from the product’s instruction manual. They traditionally forget the water that sprinkles the heads of passers-by. Masters who make money are too lazy to look at foreign methods for solving problems. The correct path will be found by pedestrians who bypass the flowing streams of half-slops.

Before other operations begin, the indoor unit of the air conditioner is installed. The box is secured with dowel nails and other fasteners. In standard models, power reaches the external unit, bypassing the internal one. In the West, there are often designs where the power cables run separately, the compressor is turned on by a relay controlled by a signal with an amplitude of 25 volts. It is definitely worth installing an air conditioner in your apartment if you are not accustomed to heat. We remind you that the equipment in no way replaces ventilation, so it is necessary to take a reserve of power for air circulation. Before installing an air conditioner, take the trouble to do a calculation. Save money.

Installation of air conditioners by foreign companies

Air conditioner installation by a foreign specialist

The first difference: business class houses are equipped with air conditioners. Videos showing the slums have been lost. There are excellent conditions for installing an external air conditioner unit. According to data from thematic forums, in America construction and installation work is carried out under licenses. There is only one professional air conditioner installer per team. There is no obligation to work, he will come, look, leave, without a license or permit, work is not worth a penny. An interesting example of construction.

The external unit of the air conditioner is installed in two ways:

1. Trampling on the posts a foot above the ground.
2. Not high on the wall, the external air conditioner unit can be easily reached by two strong guys who bought a ladder or a pickup truck.

Russian resolution problem government organizations disappears. The problem of cities disappears. We assume the roofs are equipped with HVAC. The difference between split systems is small. We direct those interested to read early reviews of the VashTekhnik portal. The first thing that attracts the eye is communications. The American is used everywhere, the USA puts it in a more original way:

• Short tubes of the indoor unit pierce the wall.
• An additional package is mounted outside, exactly up to the external unit.
• Further, see RF.

Let us remind you that the Koreans do not take nuts out.

The operator missed the rolling; we believe the tubes are cut in place. The ends are equipped with nuts using a special tool. The communications are covered by a protective shell that prevents heat exchange with the environment. The drainage hose reaches the drainage system: culturally, it does not irrigate the heads of passers-by.

On the side of the indoor unit, it is possible to change the sidewall, from where the condensate will drain. It’s difficult to say why this is being done. Apparently, it is more convenient to start drainage after reaching the sewer. To change the side of the drain, remove the outer cover; the hose and plug are swapped. Electrical wiring is carried out with a 4-core cable thicker than 16 gauge.

Note. The USA has adopted a cable calibration system; thinner wires correspond to a larger number. It developed historically, mainly in the USA. The cable was rolled by a machine, passing through increasingly smaller holes. Accordingly, the 16 gauge went through the operation 16 times.

The wire supplies power and transmits control signals. A cable with a colored braid is used, which makes the designations clear: the wiring of the indoor unit corresponds to the external one. Ground (GND), numbers 1-3 (phases). To carry out installation, the shield is removed. On the internal block, a small cover is screwed on with screws, on the right side, on the external block there is a steel ledge on the right side of the case. Power is supplied bypassing the indoor unit. We don't see any differences.

The USA demonstrates two differences compared to Chaliapin’s homeland:

• The location of the external unit, which is carefully installed and removed, horrific methods are not invented, such as pulling the box with a car traction using a cable to the ground. Sometimes the entire body is supported by four strong posts protruding from the soil by about a foot.
• The drainage hose goes into the sewer. By the way, the measure concerns bypass valves of water heaters.

Air conditioner installation sequence

The racks begin, the installation process was cut out by the cinematographer. We believe typical screw piles, the rest takes too much time. Concrete gains strength in 28 days. Although in this situation such precise adherence to standards may not be necessary. By the way, they put on top of the pile-screw foundation country houses. It is important during installation to avoid damage to the anti-corrosion layer of the metal. Otherwise, rust will eat the pile reinforcement and the external block will fall. When installing houses, they observe the subtleties of calculating the soil and wind load; we believe that the arguments are unimportant for the mass of 25 kg represented by the air conditioner box. If only the moles and rats would stop digging the soil.

The indoor unit is hung on a mounting plate, which must first be removed from the rear wall. In the USA, houses are made of sandwich panels; screws are screwed into the walls without effort. Under communications thin drill a through hole is made in a place where there is no wiring. Then, using a Forstner drill, the diameter is adjusted to the desired size. So that both copper tubes, cable and drain hose pass through.

The launch process is painfully familiar to our regular readers. Routing indicated in the instructions:

Let us add that in America split systems with several indoor units are common. A bunch of parallel pipes protrude from the right side of the external block, a pair for each point in the evaporator room. The startup process is not much different. Will vacuuming and nitriding last longer? We see: air conditioners harmoniously simplify the life of Americans who have settled in cottages; they disfigure the streets of Russian cities, where citizens place 2-3 bars. Figuratively speaking, the technique was introduced by Asia. In England we will also see something similar; in New York, on the central streets there will be no swarm formed by myriads of ugly boxes.

The United States uses a type of air conditioner called HVAC. The fundamental difference is that the fan takes air from all sides of the cubic outdoor unit, blowing it out through the mesh cover. As a result it becomes possible installation air conditioner on the roof. The approach strips the streets of major cities of ugly boxes clinging to the walls. At the same time, human needs are provided. It is clear that the length of communications is increasing. Most overseas houses are planned, thanks to the scheme forced ventilation. The roofs are dotted with shafts where the blades operate.

In our realities, every tyrant is too lazy to come up with a better option than installing an air conditioner for show. They explain it with health, other reasons, and avoid buying a monoblock that allows you to plug the window with a hose. Some owners think of decorating the balcony area with air conditioning. A suitable solution if you follow the instructions.

By the way, before installing the air conditioner yourself, determine the location. Façade installation will require approval. It’s not easy with balconies; the owner must fulfill certain conditions. Earlier in 2007, it was required by law to install an air conditioner yourself according to the instructions. Recently, it has been recommended to go through a bunch of organizations. There were rumors in the spring of 2013: the law would be repealed, but people are finding it difficult to understand the regulatory background. The rules system is confusing. Think several times before installing an air conditioner yourself anywhere.

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands Climate control equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, you install an air conditioner yourself. The main condition is to strictly follow the instructions and carry out the work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control unit.

Operating principle of air conditioner, split system

To form a general idea of ​​the organization of the internal structure, and before installing an air conditioner, we recommend considering the operating principle of the system. The climatic unit consists of 2 equivalent units - compressor and evaporation. They are connected to each other with special adapters, pipes and pipes.

The evaporator unit is installed inside the living space, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.

The refrigerant is sent under high pressure to the evaporator section. Then the freon expands, gradually boils and vaporizes. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The climate control system operates with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, the water is removed from the building through a special tube.

During operation, the compressor pumps out freon vapors. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. Dense “fog” is directed into the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition into a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process goes in cycles.

The efficiency and duration of operation of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the device, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit and the climatic characteristics of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which can lead to the device failing. Even ordinary dust can cause damage. Regular wet cleaning is required for the room.

Couplings and joints require sealing in order to eliminate the likelihood of evaporation of freon or other refrigerant. The external unit of the air conditioner is installed in such a way that it is level below the internal part of the unit. The external unit is located in a dark place, away from sun rays.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: tools - complete list

Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive undertaking. In this matter, all aspects are important - experience, practical skills, theoretical basis and availability the necessary tool. The listed factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.

Taking into account the scope of application, they are divided into several functional groups.

Power tools

Without power tools, installing an air conditioner yourself is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:

• perforator;
• "Bulgarian";
• drill.

A powerful hammer drill is chosen so that it can easily make a through hole in the wall through which the main line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. Low-power combined electric drills, which provide only a hammer drill function, in in this case not enough. They are not able to drill through brickwork.

Before installing the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.

For concrete wall Additionally, you will need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.

Measuring tool

Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with mandatory horizontal level control. You can use markers, marking pencils, construction or laser level. You will also need a series additional equipment. Air conditioners with installation cannot be securely and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.

Specialized equipment

Specialized tools are necessary for high-quality and efficient operation of climate control equipment. Copper pipe soldering tools, industrial vacuum cleaner and vacuum pump.

1. Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. This is done using special solder and gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to avoid using a conventional hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which can lead to damage to the climate control unit. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer or rolling. Main turns are formed using a pipe bender.
2. An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they get inside the device.
3. Vacuum pump. The unit dries the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory; without it, the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.

The installation equipment listed is basic. You can’t do without additional consumables - pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal scissors, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.

Installing an air conditioner yourself: step-by-step instructions

Installation of an air conditioner with your own hands begins only after purchase and preparation necessary equipment, instruments and climatic equipment. First of all, attach to external wall outdoor unit, after which internal work is carried out.

At all stages, it is extremely important to follow safety precautions, especially when it comes to high-rise buildings. Installation of an external unit is one of the most important and critical stages.

Mounting the outdoor unit

Installation of the window in general, and its outer part, in particular on the walls country houses is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of apartment buildings Not everything is so simple, the place is selected with special care. When deciding where to install your air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.

There are several basic rules:

1. The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window of your apartment neighbors.
2. A small tube is used to drain condensate.
3. The climate control device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because The equipment requires periodic maintenance.

In 90% of cases, the block is fixed on the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are unspoken rules for installing an air conditioner, mandatory among professionals. If you follow them, reaching the outside of the climate control unit will not be difficult.

• The mounting points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. For reliable fixation, anchor bolts are used.
• To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If there is such an opportunity, then it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.

Metal brackets are installed according to the previously prepared markings, screwing in the bolts as securely as possible. Standard installation of the air conditioner is carried out in such a way that between the climate unit and outer wall a distance of 10 cm was maintained. The gaps are sealed at the final stage, after connecting the device.

Installation of the indoor unit

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation indoors, where to start? First of all, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or radiators - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.

Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for installation of heating, water pipes, electrical wiring.

Fastening a metal plate from standard components for installing air conditioners begins only if the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is 10 cm, from the corner of the walls at least 5 cm. The two points are connected with a meter and a horizontal line is marked. The indoor unit is installed on a fixed metal plate.

The next stage of installing the air conditioner, or more precisely, its internal unit, is preparing holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for discharging liquid condensate. Interior space should be enough to freely place all elements in the wall.

Self-installation of the air conditioner is impossible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this purpose, wiring with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the panel (the indicator can accurately determine the “phase” and “neutral” wire).

The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other by multi-core wiring (it is inserted into a hole prepared in the wall). The installation diagram is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. When installing air conditioners yourself at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise there is a danger short circuit.

Pipe laying instructions

The standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender; when used, the metal does not crack and no dents are formed. Proper preparation also includes covering the pipes with polyurethane foam hoses, which act as thermal insulation.

Special threaded flanges are placed on the ends of the tube. The next stage of installation work is high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the danger of the formation of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit into the rolling process without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because... Copper pipes have different sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, and the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.

At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting the plastic pipe to the reinforced housing. For reliable fastening, use the heat-shrinkable tube included in the delivery set. It is better to install the drainage pipe at the maximum distance from the base of the wall.

Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing the pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater tubes are secured with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them to connect to the outdoor unit.

The holes in the room are blown out polyurethane foam, as an alternative, they are filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on the balcony and in the house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. The soap solution is washed off with a sponge or cloth. If defects are detected, the thread is tightened.

Evacuation of the air exchange system

Correct installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should know that to remove moisture, dust and small particles from the climate control device, the system is vacuumed. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the connections, because It is impossible to completely get rid of the air. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, pumping out the air takes about 1 hour.

Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The reservoir on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on automatically, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and effective air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with polyurethane foam followed by decoration.

Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because... These are expensive climate control systems that require specialized equipment to set up. Spare parts are included as standard; you don’t have to buy anything additional.

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what order to carry out the relevant work.

Installing an air conditioner yourself: secrets of professionals

The installation diagram for window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in winter period. You just have to be content with not very comfortable conditions. No water or snow should get into the line. It is better to install and pump in refrigerant at above-zero temperatures outside (at sub-zero temperatures the seal often fails because it is rubber).

To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to vacuum the system. The nut is not screwed to the copper tube completely, then the control valve located at the thick tube is slightly opened. Under pressure, the air will be displaced by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.

This method incorrect because the quality and sealing of the system cannot be verified. Industrial air conditioners are not installed using this technology.

Below is detailed video instructions that demonstrate the main stages of installing climate control systems with your own hands.

When choosing a place to install an air conditioner, the first thing you need to consider is that the coolest air will be at a distance of 2-3 meters from the device. Place it in such a way that there is no bed, sofa or other place for sleeping or prolonged rest in this area. In addition, when choosing where to install the air conditioner, you should choose a place remote from everyone heating devices. Anything that emits heat or steam is a bad neighbor for an air conditioner, unless of course you want to create indoor tornadoes :) It is also undesirable for pieces of furniture to stand in the path of the air flow, otherwise the operation of the device will not be efficient enough.

When choosing how to properly install an air conditioner in a room, the location of the windows is also taken into account. If you have a sunny side, then the flow of cooled air should go perpendicular to the flow of heat from the windows, in which case the temperature will be distributed most evenly. It is also not recommended to place the split system opposite the door to the room so that the cooled air does not escape into other rooms.

When installing an air conditioner under the ceiling, you must also take into account the necessary indentation - at least 15 cm from the ceiling to provide space for air movement. Since most split systems do not provide air flow from the street, but only cool existing air, for a healthy microclimate it is better to place the air conditioner in the same room with - it will supply Fresh air, and the air conditioner cools it to the desired temperature.

If you are deciding how to properly install an air conditioner in the bedroom, then the best solution will place it above the bed - in this case, the zone of greatest cold will be abroad sleeping place, and the air will be at a pleasant temperature during sleep.

If we talk about how to properly install an air conditioner in the kitchen, then, in addition to moving away from heat sources, which include kitchen stove, you also need to take into account the fact that if the air flow gets into other rooms, then the smells from the kitchen will spread throughout the apartment. If you have a gas stove, then you should not place the air conditioner opposite it either, since the air from it will blow out the flame. There is often not enough space in the kitchen to install a split system according to all the rules; in this case, you can choose a corner or compact installation; such options are now available on the market.

Air conditioning systems have long been transformed from elements of luxury in the offices and homes of oligarchs, into an affordable and virtually obligatory attribute of any room in which there are people. In addition, climate control systems are installed in rooms in which equipment that requires temperature conditions is installed. For example, server equipment.

The cost of a modern system is not so high, quality equipment can be purchased without any loans, within one salary. Taking into account the hot summer even beyond the Urals, we can say that at least 50% of the housing stock is equipped with air conditioners, and this figure is confidently moving towards 100%.

Since modern climate control systems are standardized, their installation is not particularly difficult. However, the cost of work increases costs by 30–50%. Therefore, thrifty owners practice installing an air conditioner with their own hands.

Possible restrictions

There are no special requirements for such work; the rules for installing an air conditioner are usually regulated by the requirements of the SES (they may differ in each region). Additionally, some municipalities may impose restrictions regarding aesthetics. For example, in historical centers, or in buildings that are classified as cultural heritage (or historical monuments), local authorities may establish special rules for installing air conditioners on the facades of buildings. Often such restrictions prohibit changing at all appearance architectural structure. In such cases, climate systems with external modules are mounted on the roof (provided that they will not be visible).

WITH technical point There are no additional difficulties, except that the line with freon will be significantly longer (which means the cost of installation work will increase). Another possible problem is the lack of protection from vandals and intruders (thieves). When the external module is located on the wall of the building, it is inaccessible to external intervention.

Sometimes, the literal fulfillment of such requirements leads to aesthetic absurdity.

In some cases, the problem of organizing the climate (especially if it is a self-installation of an air conditioner) is solved by selecting models:

• a window air conditioner does not change the appearance of a historical building so much;
• floor systems are not at all visible from the outside.

We will look at all the ways to install an air conditioner with your own hands, with the exception of channel system climate.

For reference: ducted air conditioning requires a separate equipment room with a powerful cooling system. Air ducts diverge from this room ( ventilation system) to each apartment (office).

The safety requirements for installing outdoor units are also taken into account. Heavy equipment placed at a height of several tens of meters poses a potential fall hazard. Therefore, the mounting brackets must be reliable.

The electrical connection diagram of the air conditioner must comply with the Electrical Installation Rules (ELR), like any powerful electrical appliance. In addition, energy consumption cannot exceed technical specifications(TU) of the input connection of the object. Before purchasing, you need to calculate the total power of your electrical appliances and compare the result with the restrictions set by the company that supplies electricity. It is desirable that there is no need to turn off the climate system when turning on the boiler or iron. Otherwise, this may lead to overloads and emergency situations.

Let's consider the main types of air conditioners, taking into account installation and connection features

Despite the wide variety of air conditioning systems, they can be divided into 3 main groups (excluding centralized systems ventilation and cooling):

Floor air conditioner (second name - mobile)

From a technical point of view, questions about how to install a floor-standing air conditioner should not arise. This is a self-sufficient device, usually on wheels. Such a block can be installed anywhere, having fulfilled only the condition of free space around ventilation holes.

This type of air conditioner, by definition, is connected independently, since there is no work on its installation, as a class. But there is one feature that is determined by the operating principle of any cooling device.

The air conditioner does not produce cold out of nothing (otherwise it would contradict the Law of Conservation of Energy). It separates the air mass into hot and cold. That is, the working flow becomes colder, and the waste flow becomes warmer. For example, consider a refrigerator. The generated cold remains inside, in a sealed housing. And excess heat is discharged into the room, around the radiator on the rear wall.

In the case of an air conditioner, these two flows will inevitably mix, maintaining the average temperature in the room. Therefore, the “excess” heat must be removed somewhere. For example, on the street. To do this, the floor-standing air conditioner has an air duct (sleeve), which must be connected to the outlet flange outside the room.

If you just take the sleeve out the window, warm air will be drawn into the room, sharply reducing efficiency. Therefore, the hole must be sealed.

The ideal option is the provided section in the window. If you order a double-glazed window and plan to purchase a mobile air conditioner in the future, stipulate this in the technical specifications. If this is not possible, you can install a diffuser in the window. Most owners metal-plastic windows Some may object: modern frames do not have classic windows. For this purpose, special inserts are provided in opening full-size transoms.

It looks primitive, but it works 100%. The main thing is to provide a reliable lock for the position of the slightly open window.

In addition to the formation of “excess” warm air, any air conditioner has another byproduct: condensation. The illustration shows the correct installation of a mobile air conditioner with your own hands:

Pay attention to the lower element - the condensate collection pan. The design assumes that water will evaporate naturally, restoring humidity in the room.

Information: when warm room air passes through the honeycomb of the evaporator (cold radiator), moisture remains on the metal and flows into the pan. Not only does the air dry out, but the liquid has to go somewhere.

In stationary air conditioners, there is a drainage hose through which the condensate flows into the sewer or onto the street (everyone has seen how water drips from the outdoor unit). But the mobile air conditioner is on the floor, and it is impossible to provide drainage. Therefore, the condition of the pallet requires constant monitoring. Otherwise, your parquet or carpeting will be hopelessly damaged.

Advantages of a mobile air conditioner:

• There is no concept of installation and installation work.
• Can be quickly installed in any room.
• No need to drill into walls.

Flaws:

• Low efficiency.
• Noise in the room.
• Condensation must be monitored.

Window air conditioner (monoblock)

Just like the mobile one, this unit is made in one housing. Only the evaporator and condenser (hot part) are located in opposite parts of the unit. Proper installation ensures that the hot radiator will be outside and the warm exhaust air will not enter the air-conditioned room. The illustration shows how the internal and external volumes inside the housing are separated.

The partition inside the monoblock should ideally be in the same plane as the wall in which the air conditioner is installed. If such installation is not possible, clear space must be provided around the ventilation openings. Structurally there are four of them:

• drawing air from the room to pass through the cooler;
• outlet of cooled air into the room;
• outside air intake to cool the hot condenser;
• outlet of heated air to the street.

These flows do not mix in the housing, thanks to the same partition. The condensate drains into a pan and is discharged from the housing to the street.

Where to install the monoblock

This type is not called window type for nothing. A typical place for installation is a window or a special opening in the window frame. Certainly, perfect place- This is a separate opening in the wall of the building. However, from a technical point of view, fulfilling such a niche is quite difficult. Therefore, you have to sacrifice the glazing area.

How to install a window air conditioner with safety precautions? If it is possible to change the window configuration, the best place- this is a durable window sill. Again, when replacing old windows with double-glazed windows, it is necessary to provide a blind diffuser that can be removed in the summer and returned to its place in the winter. So the air conditioner will be more intact ( indoor storage), and in the cold season there will be no extra cracks: ensuring 100% tightness is quite difficult. Don't blow it out with foam.

In practice, most often monoblocks are installed in a window (fortunately, the dimensions can be selected with an accuracy of a centimeter). This is quite simple from a preparation point of view: there is no need to redo the window. However, a window air conditioner is quite heavy: one housing houses a compressor, two radiators (a condenser and an evaporator), as well as electric motors with fans. It weighs at least 15 kg, so installing a window air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands should ensure safety. Otherwise, you will be left without a window and without a comfortable climate.

It is necessary to mount a reliable support, at an angle of 1-2 degrees of inclination outward.

When installed in a window, dismantling for winter storage is also provided.

Ideal installation of a window unit

In Western countries, the practice is to install sliding windows, in which the window is formed by vertically moving the transom upward. This is the optimal place for summer installation monoblock climate system. The window rises and a special frame with sliding curtains is installed in the opening.

The air conditioner is fixed on a horizontal platform, resting on the window sill. Sliding curtains tightly cover the body, preventing street air from entering the room. At the same time, the window remains functional: you can lift it, opening access to air when the monoblock is turned off.

Let's look at some of the nuances of installing monoblock window units:

Advantages of a window air conditioner:

• Easy to install: no need to monitor refilling after installation.
• Compact size, yet provides good performance.
• The walls will remain intact.

Flaws:

• Takes up a lot of space and partially blocks the lighting area.
• As a rule, dismantling for the winter is required.
• Since the compressor is located in a common housing, high level noise.
• Most often it is necessary to install it on a windowsill, so the flow of cold air is at the level of the person’s torso.

Split systems

If, due to lack of space, the question arises: where to install an air conditioner in an apartment, take a closer look at a system with separate units (so-called split systems). The compressor and evaporator are located in the outdoor module, and the cooling system is located inside. This ensures aesthetics inside the apartment and allows for some freedom in placement.

The operating principle of a split system is no different from any other air conditioner. Simply, the functional modules are located geographically and connected to each other by tubes for the movement of refrigerant (freon). When home craftsmen figure out how to independently install an air conditioner with separate units, this point raises the most questions. Monoblock systems are refilled at the factory and are sold completely ready for use. The split system needs to be connected with pipes and refilled with freon.

In fact, the outdoor unit is supplied already filled. Just in front of the fittings for connecting the connecting pipes, there are taps, and they are closed. Once connected, it is opened and the refrigerant is distributed throughout the entire system, including the indoor unit.

However correct installation provides for pressure testing (checking tightness under pressure) and evacuation before starting freon. That is, air must be removed from the pipe system and the indoor unit. In addition, the length of the tubes may vary, depending on the distance between the internal and external modules. In some cases, it is necessary to add freon before starting. Therefore, self-installation of a split system is most often accompanied by calling a specialist at the final stage.

What kind of work can you save on (in the sense of doing it yourself)

Of course, installation of the indoor module. There is only one rule: it must be higher than the outer one and located strictly horizontally. Then you need to drill holes to the street for two pipes, a drainage hose and a network control cable. With certain skills this is not difficult.

And finally, the most “interesting” part of the work: installation of the outdoor module. Especially if you live on the 10th floor. However, you can do without industrial climbers and a lifting tower. If the air conditioner is located under a window, you can install it from inside the apartment.

Any external work must be carried out using safety equipment.

Doing as shown in the picture below is extremely dangerous and strictly prohibited!

Also, when performing such work, you definitely need an assistant. Compliance with safety measures is a priority!

After fixing the blocks in their places, a connection is made from each other with copper pipes for the refrigerant. To perform this work you will need a special tool:

With its help, tubes are cut, flared, and chamfered. Here you need to make a decision: perform the connecting operations yourself (with the purchase of tools), or pay the installer, saving on the installation of blocks. Still, if you just connect the tubes and do not check the system (with vacuum) the cooling may not be effective.

How to connect an air conditioner to the mains? Compared to attaching blocks and starting freon, this simple task. Separate power line, RCD, circuit breaker, grounding. It is clear that many “masters” do without this. However, the requirements of the PUE must be met. Otherwise, you may get electrocuted.

Important! Before turning on any type of air conditioner, make sure that the transport locks of the fans are removed.

When choosing a location for the indoor unit, you need to decide how to properly install the air conditioner in the bedroom or children's room? If cold air blows on the bed, comfort will be replaced by a cold. Therefore, the module is placed near the window, across the bed, so that the direct flow does not cross the vertical projection of the bed.

Important: installing an air conditioner in a wooden house, regardless of whether it is window or wall-mounted, does not provide any special restrictions.

You just need to make sure there is no fire danger, and take into account the strength characteristics of the material. Wiring that may pass through the wall must be laid in steel pipe. Pipes and hoses are also laid using a sleeve (possibly plastic) so that the wood does not become damp from condensation.

Conclusion

We have reviewed typical questions installation of climate systems. You can handle most of the work yourself; you only need to call a technician when refilling with freon. In addition to obvious savings, installing an air conditioner yourself gives you confidence in the reliability of the installation. You are in complete control of the process.

Video on the topic

Been through summer heat and the stuffiness is helped by climate control equipment and in particular split systems, which out of habit are called air conditioners. The equipment is not cheap, but the worst thing is that for its installation you need to pay an amount slightly less than for the equipment. That’s why many people think about self-installation. Installing an air conditioner yourself is possible, but there are many little details and features, ignorance of which leads to rapid wear and tear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instruction will help you do everything right.

Selecting a location

Installing an air conditioner yourself begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a location for both. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how the cold air will spread in the house or apartment, and also take into account the technical requirements.

Let's start with the technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:

• from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers at least 20-30 cm);
• to the side wall - at least 30 cm;
• to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.

The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on open balcony, if he is. On a glazed balcony/loggia, it can be installed on a fence (if it has sufficient load-bearing capacity) or nearby on the wall. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, they try to place the outdoor unit above the window level - away from passers-by. For more high floors Can be placed under a window or on the side.

If you plan to install an air conditioner yourself in a private house, the location is usually selected based on bearing capacity walls If you have a ventilated façade, you can use a special fastening or hang the block on a plinth, if there is one.

When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is standardized. Specific numbers depend on the manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m (different Daikin models) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). Some manufacturers do not regulate the minimum length, that is, it can be anything. In this case, you can install the blocks back to back. Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.

The situation with the maximum distance between two blocks is a little simpler. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refilling of the system with freon will be required, and this is an additional expense, and a considerable one. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.

What you need for self-installation

You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, since the work only lasts 3 hours, they answer that the equipment is very expensive and its depreciation makes up a significant portion of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many teams do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, and a bad one is of no use.

Equipment

So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands you will need the following equipment:

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to get one and on routes up to 6 meters they do without it.

Materials

To connect and install two split system units you will need the following consumables:

That's all you need to install the air conditioner yourself.

Installation procedure and features of the work

There is nothing super complicated about installing a split system yourself, but there are a lot of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of operation of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, you should carefully read the installation and operating instructions that come with the equipment. You will compensate for the time spent by knowing exactly what and how to do with your air conditioner, because there are some nuances.

Getting started - installing the blocks

Before starting all work, it is worth searching in the intended installation location hidden wiring or heating pipes. Getting caught in them while working is very no fun. Next comes the actual installation of the air conditioner yourself. You need to start with installing the indoor unit. At the selected location we place a plate for its fastening. The block must hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviation. Therefore, we approach marking and fastening carefully.

We apply the plate, level it, and mark the places for fastening. Drill holes and insert plastic plugs under the dowels, hang the plate and secure it with dowels. We especially carefully fasten the lower part of the plate - there are latches that hold the block, so they must be firmly fixed. No backlash. Then we check the horizontality again.

Having estimated where the route will be located (it must slope at least 1 cm per meter for normal drainage installation), we begin to drill a hole in the outer wall. We also drill the hole with a slope - again, so that condensation drains normally (the angle can be greater than that of the route).

The minimum diameter of the hole is 5 cm. If there is no drill of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, bringing out not a common bundle of communications, but each tube/cable separately. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for the copper and electrical cable, the second for the drainage pipe. It must be laid lower than the others so that it does not leak into communications in an emergency.

If two blocks are mounted back to back, the hole must be strictly aligned (measure on your own block where the connection ports are located)

Then we install the brackets for the outdoor unit. If we're talking about about a high-rise building, you will need climbing equipment and skills to work at heights. This block must also hang strictly horizontally, so when marking the holes we also use a level. When installing brackets, we install fasteners in each hole, no matter how many there are - this is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners are 10*100 mm anchors. More is possible, less is highly undesirable.

After the brackets are secured, the outdoor unit is installed. We also attach the block to all the fastenings that are available. This is the only way to guarantee that it will remain in place under any conditions.

Laying communications

The two blocks are connected by an electrical wire and two copper tubes. There is also a drainage pipe leading through the wall. All these communications must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.

Copper tubes

We start with copper pipes. One is larger in diameter, the other is smaller. The dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. We cut off a piece of the required length with a pipe cutter, remove burrs from the edges with a special tool, straightening and leveling the cut. It is undesirable to use a regular saw, as well as a file to remove burrs - there will definitely be sawdust inside the pipe, which will get into the system and quickly destroy the compressor.

Heat-insulating tubes are placed on the prepared pipes. Moreover, the thermal insulation must be continuous and extend inside the wall as well. The joints of pieces of thermal insulation must be glued with metallized tape, ensuring a very tight fit of the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensation will form on uninsulated sections of the pipes, and it can drain inside the wall, causing frozen streaks, destroying the wall.

Copper tubes wrapped in thermal insulation must be passed through the hole in the wall. Before doing this, be sure to carefully seal the edge that will be inserted into the wall so that dust does not get inside the pipe (or better yet, securely plug both ends immediately after cutting and leave the plugs until the connection begins). This is very important point, since dust will quickly damage the compressor.

Cable and drainage

The situation is simpler with electric cable. Each wire is terminated with special lugs, installing them on conductors stripped of insulation and crimping them with pliers. The prepared cable is connected according to the diagram in the instructions.

On the indoor and outdoor units, above the ports for connecting copper pipes, there is a removable plate, under which there are connectors for connecting cables. Before you start installing the split system yourself, remove the plates, consider what will need to be connected and where - it will be easier to work with later. Especially with an external unit.

Connecting the drainage tube is generally simple: it is connected to the corresponding terminal on the indoor unit and brought out through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it ends at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. The drainage pipe must be laid with a slope towards the exit to the street. The slope is at least 1 cm per meter of length. More is possible, less is not.

The tube must be fixed every meter so that there is no sagging in it. Condensation then accumulates in them, which may end up on your floor or furniture. When you pass the tube through a hole in the wall, it is also better to plug it with something.

Indoors, pipes and cables are usually wrapped with metallized tape into a single bundle. Then they are fixed to the wall in several places, and a plastic box is attached on top. Usually it is taken white or a color matching the finish.

If you wish, you can hide all the tubes in the wall - cut a route in the wall, lay it there and, after checking its functionality, wall it up. But this is a rather risky option, since in order to repair something you will need to dismantle the wall.

Connecting blocks

Here, in general special secrets No. We connect the communications stretched through the hole in the wall to the appropriate connectors. There are no problems with connecting the cable - you connect wires of the same color to the terminals that are already connected to them. In this case, you definitely can’t go wrong.

If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop to catch the oil (we lay it this way copper pipes), dissolved in freon. If the difference is lower, we do not make any loops.

Drainage

There are two ways to drain drainage from a split system - into the sewer or just outside, outside the window. The second method is more common among us, although it is not very correct.

Connecting the drainage tube is also easy. To the exit drainage system indoor unit (tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit), a corrugated hose is easily pulled on. To keep it securely, you can tighten the connection with a clamp.

The same applies to drainage from the outdoor unit. Its exit is at the bottom. Often they leave everything as is, and the water just drips down, but it’s probably better to also put on a drainage hose and remove the moisture from the walls.

Outdoor unit drainage

If you are using a polymer pipe rather than a hose, you will need to select an adapter that will allow you to connect the air conditioner outlet and the pipe. You will have to look on the spot, because situations are different.

When laying the drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns and certainly not allow sagging - condensation will accumulate in these places, which is not at all good. As has been said more than once, the tube is laid out with a slope. The optimal is 3 mm per 1 meter, the minimum is 1 mm per meter. Throughout its entire length it is fixed to the wall, at least every meter.

Freon circulation system

It is somewhat more difficult to connect copper pipes. They are laid out carefully on the walls, avoiding kinks and creases. For bending, it is better to use a pipe bender, but you can get by with a spring bender. In this case, sharp turns should also be avoided, but in order not to bend the tubes.

The ports on the outdoor unit look like this. It's the same on the inside.

From the beginning we connect the tubes in the indoor unit. We unscrew the nuts from the ports on it. As the nuts are loosened, a hissing sound is heard. This is nitrogen coming out. This is normal - nitrogen was pumped in at the factory so that the insides do not oxidize. When the hissing stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, put it on the tube, and then begin rolling.

Rolling

First, remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burrs. If the cross-section becomes not round during cutting, use a calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in any store. It is inserted into the pipe, scrolled, leveling the cross-section.

The edges of the tubes are carefully aligned over a distance of 5 cm, after which the edges are flared so that they can be connected to the inlet/outlet of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correct execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system must be sealed. Then you will not need to refill the air conditioner soon.

When flaring, hold the pipe with the hole facing down. Again, so that copper particles do not get inside, but spill out onto the floor. It is clamped in the holder so that 2 mm sticks out. Exactly like that, no more, no less. We clamp the tube, install a flaring cone, and tighten it, applying considerable effort (the tube is thick-walled). Flaring is complete when the cone goes no further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with the other tube.

If you haven’t rolled pipes before, it’s better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge should be smooth, with a clear continuous border.

Port connection

Connect the flared edge of the pipe to the corresponding outlet and tighten the nut. There is no need to use any additional gaskets, sealants, or the like (prohibited). This is why they take special tubes made of high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional means.

You need to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case will the copper flatten out, crimp the fitting, and the connection will become almost monolithic and completely airtight.

The same operation is repeated with all four outputs.

Vacuuming - why and how to do it

The last stage that completes the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is the removal of air, moisture, and argon residues from the system. During installation, moist air from the room or from the street fills the copper tubes. If it is not removed, it will end up in the system. As a result, the compressor will work with greater load and heat up more.

The presence of moisture also negatively affects the performance of the system. The fact is that freon, which is used to fill air conditioners, contains a certain amount of oil to lubricate the elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but when saturated with water, it lubricates the insides less effectively, which leads to their premature wear.

From all this it follows that the system will work without air removal, but not for very long and with possible shutdown due to overheating (if there is such an automatic system).

There are two ways to remove air from the system: using vacuum pump or a certain amount of freon released from the outdoor unit (it is charged at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).

Spritz method

We unscrew the valve plugs on the ports of the external unit (they are indicated by arrows in the photo).

We will carry out operations with the lower port (larger in diameter), which sticks out perpendicular to the body. Under the cover there is a hexagon socket; select a suitable size key.

Under the cover there is a valve with a hexagon connector

Next, use this key to turn the valve 90° for one second and return it to its previous position. We let a little freon into the system, and it created overpressure. We press our finger on the spool, which is located on the same port. By doing this we release a mixture of freon and the gases found there. We press literally for seconds. Part of the mixture should remain so as not to introduce a new portion of air inside.

You can repeat this 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can turn the valve located above. With a track of 2-3 meters, you can do it 3 times, with a length of 4 meters, only two. There won't be enough freon reserves for more.

When the air has almost been removed, we screw a plug onto the outlet with the spool (filling), and open the control valves (with a hexagon) completely, releasing freon into the system. We coat all joints with soap foam to make sure that they are airtight. You can run it.

Vacuum pump

This operation requires a vacuum pump, a high-pressure tube, and a group of two pressure gauges - high and low pressure.

Without opening the valves on the control valves, we connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool and turn on the equipment. It should work for 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, vapors, and nitrogen residues are drawn out.

Then the pump is turned off, the pump valve is closed but not disconnected and left for another 15-20 minutes. All this time you need to monitor the readings of the pressure gauges. If the system is sealed, there is no change in pressure, the pressure gauge needles are frozen in place. If the arrows change their position, there is a leak somewhere and needs to be fixed. You can find it using soap foam and tighten the connection (usually the problem is located at the place where the copper tubes are connected to the outputs of the blocks).

If everything is normal, without disconnecting the pump hose, fully open the valve located below. Some sounds are heard inside the system - freon is filling the system. Now, wearing gloves, quickly twist the vacuum pump hose - a certain amount of icy freon may escape from the valve, but you don’t want frostbite. Now completely unscrew the valve at the top (where the thinner tube is connected).

Why in this order? Because when filling with freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly closes the filling port when the pump is disconnected. That's all, do-it-yourself air conditioner installation is complete, you can turn it on.

To be fair, it must be said that such an operation - vacuuming - is carried out only in Russia and nearby countries. In Israel, where air conditioners work all year round, they do nothing like this. Why is a question to ponder.