Rubbing plaster. Lighthouse wall putty. Standard grout options

Grouting the walls after plastering is mandatory. In order to start painting the wall, it must first be leveled. There are two types of surface leveling, namely: plaster, that is, a rougher finish, and putty, a fine finish.

Today we will tell you how to grout plaster and it will be last work before applying wallpaper or painting. You can watch some moments in the video in this article and photos and this will help you avoid mistakes.

Experienced craftsmen know: the more thoroughly the wall is plastered, the easier it will be to finish it. By doing everything with your own hands, it is quite possible to do everything efficiently.

In their work, they usually use wide spatulas, because even if the material is applied very carefully, small irregularities and sagging will remain on the surface, like traces of the sharp corners of a spatula.

Attention: Another rule is that before you start polishing, for the best result, the wall must be thoroughly dried for at least one day.

Choosing the right tool

After they are dried, but before priming, they are grouted or sanded. This is a mechanical job and therefore it is necessary to carefully select the tool for grouting the plaster, because the quality of the work will depend on this. Let's take a closer look at how to grout plaster.

The right choice will save your energy and time:

  • In the case where the wall surface is small, it makes sense to use a sanding bar.
  • If the wall area is large, you can use a surface grinder electric car, but in this case, the corners will have to be processed manually.
  • Perhaps the wall has large area and, at the same time, a complex surface with protrusions or bends. A powerful random orbital sander will do the job best here.

Attention: The surface of any grouting tool must be completely smooth. Even small scratches are not allowed.

It is a base equipped with a handle with clamps where sandpaper or sanding mesh is attached. Before starting work, make sure that you have a small supply of sandpaper, because worn sheets require urgent replacement. The mesh should be replaced when its canvas wears out.

How to find out? When, while sanding the surface, you feel that the previous effect is no longer there, most likely this moment has arrived.

So:

  • The greatest preference in work is given to the grinding mesh, because it does not wear out as quickly as paper, and it is not so afraid of putty dust. When sanding, dust does not linger in the mesh holes. Therefore, despite the higher price, it is recommended to use it. Before sale, the mesh is cut to the size of the timber, so when going to the store, determine what size sanding mesh you need.
  • Sandpaper has to be changed frequently, so the savings will be small. When purchasing, choose paper in rolls or large sheets so you can cut it yourself to fit your sanding block.

Attention: Remember to always leave a few millimeters under the clamps of the bar.

  • What kind of sandpaper do you need? Determine this experimentally by trying small pieces of different grain sizes on the wall. Paper that is too smooth will fail immediately, but paper that is too rough will not. required quality processing.
  • Depending on what you plan to cover the walls with in the future, the quality of polishing its surface may vary. If it is being prepared for painting, it will need to be polished several times. First polish rough sandpaper with a grain size of 60. Such paper should remove the most noticeable particles from the surface being treated. After this, take paper or sanding mesh with a grain size of 100 to 120. They will help give the surface a perfect smoothness.

Attention: If you plan to wallpaper the wall, you do not need to carry out the second sanding.

Using a sander

It has its undeniable advantage in terms of saving effort and time. The quality of the treated surface cannot be compared; it is incomparably better.

And one more advantage: no dust. Modern machines have a special holder design that allows you to work for a long time without feeling tired.

  • And there are machines with a retractable work surface. They allow you to carry out work on remote areas of the wall.
  • They also differ in their power. The instructions say this. The higher this indicator, the more it can work without overheating.

You can do it yourself special device, which will allow for fine processing of complex surfaces, such as corners or niches. To do this you will need a piece of plastic approximately 7 centimeters wide.

Then you will need to cut the piece plastic profile appropriate size. Now you need to glue it to the back side double-sided tape sandpaper (can be of different grains) and trim the corners so as to give this “mini-grater” device the shape of a pencil. It is necessary to work with a corner, cutting off (sharpening) it as it wears out.

How to protect your apartment from dust

Before you start Finishing work take measures to ensure that the fine dust that inevitably forms when sanding walls does not penetrate into the rest of the apartment.

  • To do this, purchase protective plastic film for furniture and carefully wrap everything that remains in the room, being sure to secure the film with tape. Cover the window openings with the same film, securing it along the entire length and width.
  • On front door hang a towel moistened with water, place the same towel under the threshold, and close the door gap with another one.
  • Take care of yourself: carry out work in special glasses and a mask. Before washing work clothes, shake them out thoroughly.

How to sand walls after puttying

After the preparation is completed, you can begin work. Grouting plaster video will show you the sequence of work. First, make a plan of sorts. To do this, use lighting: illuminate the surface of the wall with a powerful flashlight.

All irregularities will be noticeable, because they will cast long shadows on the surface. Circle them to see which areas need special attention.

Grinding is usually done from top to bottom. Starting from the corner, make spiral movements with slight pressure. Significant force can be detrimental and damage fresh putty. They always start and end with sandpaper or sanding mesh of the same grit.

All small depressions noticed are leveled out later, after the wall surface is primed (see). They are carefully puttied using a soft rubber spatula.

How to check the quality of the work done:

  • Firstly using lighting, directing the lamp light along the wall.
  • Secondly, applying a building level to the surface to determine whether there are uneven areas left somewhere. All defects are eliminated using the same sanding block.

But the work is not finished yet. After sanding, the entire treated surface will be covered with fine dust, which must be removed before painting or wallpapering. How to do it?

If you have an old, worn-out vacuum cleaner that you don’t mind clogging grinding dust, you can use it. Or you can brush off the dust with a soft brush and carefully, for fear of smearing the putty, wipe lightly several times damp cloth, waiting for the surface to dry after the previous time.

Attention: Remember that putty is a very soft and manageable material. Therefore, it is safe to say that by following the advice in this article, you will undoubtedly have fun performing fine surface finishing work.

You already know how to properly grout plaster. With good graters you can do everything efficiently and quickly. Their price is a little higher, but they are durable in operation. And the plane does not deteriorate. So don't save too much on this.

When the plaster has been applied to the surface and the walls have received preliminary leveling, all that remains is to apply finishing layer putty mixture to prepare for wallpapering, painting or other decorating.

Find out further in the article what you need to do this as correctly as possible and without resorting to the services of workers.

In the photo - a wall ready for wallpaper after puttying and applying primer

WHAT THE INDUSTRY OFFERS US

So, how to treat walls after plastering? Each putty option is used in certain areas, which often overlap.

Let's take a closer look at the materials.

  1. Cement is a dry mixture in bags, which is used for sealing joints and final leveling brick and concrete walls for painting. Can be used externally as a solution on water based. With its help you can create a layer of 2-7 mm, its price is the lowest.

Preparation of cement putty

  1. Gypsum - crushed gypsum powder which contains some additives. Environmentally friendly “breathable” material, which is used only for interior decoration. Before use, dilute with water until thick as sour cream. Three types are offered:
    • fugue - does not shrink, is used for sealing gypsum board joints;
    • starting - has a coarse grind, which makes it possible to create a layer of 5-20 mm. Can replace plaster when leveling walls using plaster guide rails (beacons). Does not shrink when dried;
    • finishing - a mixture of very fine grinding, makes it possible to create a layer of 0.5-3 mm. Shrinks greatly when drying, so thicknesses greater than 2 mm must be done with caution.

Applying gypsum putty

  1. Acrylic - offered in the form of a thick ready-made mixture in an airtight container. It is very plastic, makes it possible to obtain ideal smoothness, which is very important for further painting of the surface, and forms a thin layer.

Working with acrylic putty

There are some features of its composition.

For example, when the wall will subsequently be covered with wallpaper, it is not advisable to use this putty:

  • there is no need to lay out the surface underneath them like that;
  • the acrylic layer under the liquid glue may become soft and come off the wall along with the wallpaper.

HOW TO PREPARATE A SOLUTION FOR GYPSUM PUTTER

Please note that you must know how to prepare the gypsum mixture correctly, since the surface must be treated immediately. After 40 minutes the material will become hard and impossible to work with.

Tools for work

Prepare a clean, wide container, such as a plastic bucket, and fill it one-third full cold water. Add putty to it with a trowel until it stops sinking. Mix the solution until smooth using a drill with a mixer attachment. After this, the latter should be washed immediately.

Tip: do not apply the mixture to the surface immediately, let it sit for about 5 minutes.

HOW TO CORRECTLY LEVEL SURFACES WITH PUTTY

Consider the sequence plastering works and the technique for carrying them out.

  1. Assess the curvature of the walls to understand how to level them. To do this, prepare a rule more than a meter long or a piece of drywall.
  2. Apply them to surfaces with your own hands in different directions and different places. This way you can determine where working surface has dips or bulges:
    • when the differences are large, more than 50 mm, you will have to;
    • if the differences are 10-50 mm, they can be leveled with spatulas using the starting mixture;
    • If the wall curvature is no more than 10 mm, use only finishing putty.

To seal a smooth plaster surface, it will be enough to apply 1-2 layers of finishing or acrylic mixture.

Checking walls for curvature using a building level

Advice: before treating the wall, decide whether you will have electrical installations before or after plastering. It depends on the method of laying the cable - hidden or open.

CORRECTLY APPLY PUTTY

The basic technology will be proposed below, so each master develops his own with practice. However, without primary knowledge it will be quite difficult to achieve this.

Prepare the corners for plastering the walls, making them as even as possible:

  • internal - for this you can use paper tape with two aluminum strips. It makes it quite easy to make the corners perfectly straight;
  • external - a perforated aluminum corner, which is secured with plaster mortar, is perfect.

Sealing corners

When applying the putty layer there is no need to use beacons or reinforcing mesh. However, there are other specific features that you should know and take into account.

For example, using tools:

  • the basic rule is that you should definitely clean it using hard brushes after use and rinse with water;
  • You need to use two spatulas at the same time - the main and auxiliary. The first is intended for applying the solution to the surface, the second is for collecting putty from a container and removing excess from the main tool.

Advice: don’t be afraid to use, after some practice you will understand that it is more convenient to work with them.

Technique

  1. The subsequent layer should be applied after the primer has dried, which most often should be applied to the surface. Due to it, the adhesion between materials is significantly increased.
  2. Finishing materials, just like plaster, should be applied from the corners - internal or external.
  3. Pull the putty from a dry place to a wet place, i.e. the newly applied layer. This technology makes it possible not to leave tool marks on the leveled areas.

Surface filling technique

  1. If the unevenness of the plaster layer is wavy and placed horizontally, the putty should be applied in vertical stripes, and vice versa.
  2. Use an auxiliary spatula to distribute the solution along the blade of the main tool. Then stretch it in a wide motion across the surface. Then remove the excess from the spatula and use a clean blade in the opposite direction to compact and level the surface.

GRINDING

The last stage is surface grinding. For gypsum putty use sanding mesh or large sandpaper. Work should only be carried out when the surface is completely dry.

If you need to grout the plaster mortar, we will dwell on it in more detail. Below is a step-by-step description of the work, explaining how to wipe down the walls after plastering.

Prepare:

  • wooden grater;
  • brush to remove dust;
  • hammer;
  • ironing board
  1. Wait until the plaster is slightly dry before starting grouting. It is recommended to use a wooden grater because plastic ones are not as effective or durable.

Tip: make sure that the mixture is still damp at the time of grouting so that it does not need to be moistened with water.

  1. Make sure that when the wood is abraded, drive the nails deeper in time, for which use a hammer. Hold a grater in one hand and a brush in the other, which should be used to remove emerging and settling dust from the surface. Grouting movements should be circular counterclockwise, not longitudinal. That's what it's called - circular grouting.
  2. During the process, the float cuts off various bumps and fills the depressions on the surface of the plaster with them. Therefore, it is not desirable that the material does not dry completely and still has the ability to set.

Surface grinding

  1. Press the grater blade at the points of large tubercles, and in flat areas it should be slightly reduced.

Tip: do not throw away the solution that settles on the edges of the grater. Clean it into a container; it will come in handy when you need to grease a surface somewhere.

  1. Remember simple rules grout:
    • Clean the solution from the edges of the grater in a timely manner, otherwise it will fall off on its own and scatter in different directions;
    • moisten the cover with water when it is very dry and can no longer be processed, but do not allow the solution to become very thin due to splashes.
  1. The final stage of preparing the surface after scraping with a float is the use of special trowels that will improve the final result and make it smoother. To do this, it is recommended to use tools with a rubber base. average size. When preparing a wall for painting, it is recommended to use a special metal trowel.

Using a wide spatula

PUTTY LAYERS

A difficult question is how many layers should be applied to the surface, which cannot be answered unambiguously. If you manage to cope with one, great, there’s no point in continuing. There are often places where you have to apply more layers than others.

Tip: do not rush to apply the next layer, wait until the previous one is completely dry.

Treating walls after plastering with putty, although difficult and even somewhat creative stage of any repair, it will be possible to master the initial skills of working with two spatulas after half an hour or an hour. After this, you will do everything almost automatically.

CONCLUSION

After applying the plaster layer, there are several ways to further develop the repair - prepare the surface for wallpapering, painting, decorative plaster or under tiles. In each situation you need to act differently.

This article discussed the main actions after plastering the walls. The video in this article will help you find Additional information on this topic.

By using gypsum-based plaster, you can achieve High Quality work. At the same time, the plastered surface can be left without additional putty.

The treated walls and ceiling with gypsum dough are already ready for application of your chosen decorative finishing. The mixture provides excellent adhesion to the coating material.

For concrete walls, primer mixtures are used before applying the gypsum mass. In this case, you do not need to apply a plaster mesh.

After applying the mixture to the surface, it can be easily leveled. As a result, the wall can be made perfectly smooth.

Application

Gypsum plaster is mainly used for finishing interior walls and ceilings. Moreover, the premises should not have too high humidity. Gypsum plaster is used to level the walls and ceilings, after which the decorative coating begins.

This mixture can be applied to the surface in a thick layer. Thus, it is able to cover any unevenness. With the help of such a solution it is possible to cope with significant wall errors. Even with such problem areas like deep cracks and holes. Thanks to unique properties gypsum mixture, set the level of the walls, especially in those places where it collapses or protrudes forward.

After treating the surface with gypsum plaster, no additional work not required.

The main condition in the first days after applying the mixture is to ensure normal conditions for better drying of the plaster and high-quality adhesion to the surface. It is necessary to ensure that there are no drafts in the room, and also to avoid direct contact with sun rays for coverage. Besides, heating devices It is strictly forbidden to dry the treated walls, otherwise a web of cracks will form on them.

Drying time gypsum plaster ranges from 5 to 12 days, depending on weather conditions And temperature regime in room. In this period optimal temperature the air in the room will be from +5˚С to +25˚С. At the same time, it must be ventilated periodically. After complete drying dark walls become beautiful and bright. It is advisable to ventilate the room well after this period to get rid of any remaining moisture in the plastered walls.

After the surface covered with gypsum plaster has completely dried, you can immediately begin gluing wallpaper, painting or any other finishing. To paint the walls, it is necessary to bring the moisture content of the gypsum plaster to 1%. In this case, you can use any type paint coatings, except limestone. Thus, such an apartment renovation will take you little time, but the result will be clearly visible. Wherein, special costs for such work will not be possible, since the material consumption is not high.

The last step in plastering the surface with a gypsum-based solution will be covering and grouting. It happens that specialists replace grouting with smoothing. It is worth noting that the quality of the treated surface often depends on the correctly carried out coating process. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to this stage of work.

Covering and grouting

First of all, we will tell you how to grout gypsum plaster. For covering and grouting, it is necessary to prepare a sufficiently high-quality solution. For this, fine sand is used. A properly prepared mixture, which has a normal fat content, will rub down cleanly and easily, which allows plasterers to do the job quickly and efficiently. But river sand with coarse grains is not suitable for this procedure, otherwise the surface texture will be rough.

For grouting, as well as for covering, it is very important that the solution is completely homogeneous. If, when covering, the mixture is greasy or thin in some places, the grout will not be completely clean. Therefore, it is recommended that before applying the mixture to the surface, sift them well and then mix thoroughly.

The coating solution is prepared with the same composition as for the previous layers. Fatty mixtures give surfaces more rough texture with excess solution and many stripes. Such mixtures are better suited for the smoothing process. When grouting, you should not use thin mortar, as it is not strong enough and is difficult to work with.

Grouting of gypsum plaster is carried out in two ways: in a circle and by spreading.

The circular grouting procedure is performed according to the following rules. We take the grater in our hand and press it closely to the surface finished with gypsum plaster. While pressing on the grater, gently move your hand counterclockwise. In this case, various irregularities may form, which can be easily removed with the edge of the tool used. Plaster mixture, which the master constantly moves across the entire area, fills all existing holes. The amount of pressure applied to the grater must vary. If there are bulges on the wall, then you should press harder on the tool, and in places where there are depressions, press less. Gypsum coating tends to set quickly, making it difficult to rub down. Therefore, the surface is periodically moistened with water to soften it. Having finished grouting all around, almost invisible marks remain on the wall.

For more high-quality processing surfaces, following the previous process, immediately apply grouting. To do this, straight strokes are made with a clean trowel, which is firmly applied to the plaster. As a result of such movements, all the shortcomings from circular grouting are eliminated. This operation must be carried out immediately after grouting in a circular manner. It is better to process small area up to 1 sq.m. If the plaster has already dried out, you should moisten it with water and quickly rub it into place. After this procedure on the wall treated plaster mortar there should be no defects left on the gypsum base. It is worth noting that the better the surface is grouted, the easier it will be to paint it. If the gypsum mixture is properly grouted, there will be no need to putty before painting.

In some cases, grouting of plaster is replaced by smoothing using trowels. To smooth gypsum plaster, just like when grouting, you should follow some rules. Two methods are used to smooth the surface. This job requires two people. One throws the mixture on the wall, and the other immediately smoothes it down.

The final stage of plastering work is grouting the plaster. Its purpose is considered to be the final leveling and smoothing of the surface to be rubbed to a perfectly smooth surface, as well as the elimination of irregularities and depressions on the main layer of plaster. Grouting is carried out immediately after the solution has set on the main surface and has completely dried.

One of the stages of plastering work is the selection of a trowel (grinding block). This tool can be either wooden or polyurethane. In general, a plaster float consists of a blade (sponge or felt material) and a handle. In this case, the handle of the trowel for grouting plaster should be such that when working with it, the fingers pass through the grater freely, i.e., matched to the hand.

The best option for grouting gypsum plaster by hand is considered to be a wooden trowel, to the handle of which a fabric base is fixed (using wooden pins or other ordinary hardware). It should be remembered that when abrading the canvas, hardware or wooden pins, if the process is carried out diligently, can leave scratches on the surface being rubbed. In this regard, they (fastening elements) must be methodically periodically deepened into the fabric base.

For best result The fabric base of the timber for rubbing the plaster layer can in particular cases be upholstered with felt or felt material.

On a note: correct selection The tool will save not only your energy, but also time. For example, when the wall surface is small, it is better to use a sanding bar. In cases where the wall area is large and flat, it is advisable to use an electric surface grinder. More complex uneven surface It is best to sand with a powerful eccentric sander. However, in any case, smoothing the corners will have to be done manually.

Stages of grouting plaster

Of course, after final application layer of plaster, the question arises of how to rub it down. After all, when the walls are mainly covered with plaster, it is impossible to eliminate the smallest irregularities. In this regard, it is recommended to properly and reliably wipe down the surface of walls or ceilings after working with a spatula or trowel in two stages:

  1. Rough grouting of the plaster layer;
  2. Smoothing.

Depending on what you plan to use to cover the rubbed area of ​​the room surface in the future, the quality of grinding may vary. For example, if it is being prepared for painting, then it will need to be polished several times (first rough with sandpaper with a grit of up to 60, and then with a sanding mesh with a grit of 100 to 120). These actions help give the sanded area a perfectly smooth surface. However, if you plan to wallpaper the sanded surface in the future, then the second stage of grouting the plaster can be omitted.

Rough work

This stage of grinding the surface coated with plaster is carried out as follows:

  1. The layer of plaster on the treated area is slightly moistened with water from a spray bottle.
  2. A grater or a block with wooden surface do a rough grout, that is, grind the rough wall or ceiling with circular movements counterclockwise. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the pressure force so as not to tear off the covering layer (the final layer of plaster).
  3. Using a grater with felt, which will need to be slightly moistened with water, use direct movements to perform the final mashing (the so-called “run-up” mashing).

In places where the area to be processed is small (between the door jamb and the corner), it is recommended to use a grater; this is the same sponge grater, only smaller in size.

After rough sanding the plaster, you can begin smoothing its surface.

Smoothing the plaster layer

Rubbing by smoothing is done with a grater with a flat rubber or metal layer. In this case, a grater with an elastic band is used for grinding the surface prepared for subsequent coating of the plaster layer with adhesive paint, and with a metal layer - with ordinary oil paint.

The smoothing of the plastered surface itself is carried out by the following steps:

  1. First, using a grater with a metal or rubber layer, carefully make vertical movements from the ceiling to the floor.
  2. Then, with perpendicular, that is, horizontal, movements, the same grater is used to manipulate from one edge of the surface to be treated to the other.

In no case is it allowed to make circular movements with a tool during the final smoothing of the plaster surface; it is prohibited to smooth the surface in reverse order. Until the vertical movements of the grinding tool are completed over the entire surface being processed, it is prohibited to begin the horizontal movement.

If the plaster was grouted on the ceiling, then smoothing should be carried out initially in the direction of the line of window openings, and only after that - across.

If all the manipulations performed when plastering the walls or ceiling were carried out correctly, the surface in the room being repaired should be very, very smooth and beautiful.

You can verify the correctness of the work performed:

  1. Using lighting, direct the light of the lamp along the wall and inspect the treated surface, that is, see the resulting result.
  2. By applying a building level to the surface, accurately determine whether there are any irregularities on it somewhere. In this case, all the shortcomings can be eliminated using the same grinding block (grater).

Before troweling the plaster, it is imperative to take measures to ensure that the smallest specks of dust that inevitably appear when plastering surfaces do not penetrate into other rooms of the residential building. For this it is recommended:

  1. Protective plastic film Thoroughly wrap all the furniture in the room, securing its edges with tape.
  2. Cover the window openings with the same film, that is, secure it similarly to tape along the entire length and width of the openings.
  3. Hang an unnecessary towel moistened with water on the front door, and also put an additional similar material under the threshold and cover the door opening with another towel;

Among other things, you need to take care of yourself: while plastering the surface, you must wear special safety glasses and a mask. Before washing, dirty clothes stained with dust must be thoroughly shaken out.

Upon completion of the plaster grouting, it is recommended that the entire treated surface be cleaned of fine dust before painting or wallpapering using a regular vacuum cleaner or soft brush.

Beginners often ask the question, what do they use to rub down the walls after plastering? Covering and grouting the surface treated with plaster is final stage work. Sometimes grouting is replaced by smoothing, and the same tool is used for the job. The tool certainly affects the quality of the coating, but the composition of the mixture is no less important. How to rub over the plaster to make it look attractive?

Usually, for finishing coating sand with a fine fraction is added to the solution, which should be of normal fat content. If you plan to tile the wall, you can add coarse sand to the solution. In this case, the wall will be rough and will provide better adhesion between the materials.

If you add gypsum to a lime-based solution, you will get a decrease in the strength of the plaster.

The greasy mixture, after applying it to the surface, will cause many streaks left from the tool and training. This plaster is best used for the smoothing process. An area treated with thin mixtures does not last long and is difficult to grout.

If this is your first time deciding to do the repairs yourself or you don’t have the time, it is recommended to use ready-made mixtures, which can be purchased in specialized stores. For beginners, this option will be the most acceptable, since due to the poor quality of the solution that you prepare yourself, you will have to redo everything in the future.

Grouting methods

How to grout correctly cement plaster everyone who plans to do the repairs themselves needs to know. There are two ways to grout a plastered surface using trowels: in a circular manner and in a sweeping manner. These two operations belong to the general procedure for plastering walls and ceilings.

It’s worth knowing that you can only use circular grout if you don’t need it. smooth surface. For high-quality coating it is necessary to resort to both methods.

Circular grouting

To carry out this procedure, press the grater against the wall, while making circular movements with your hand. It is better to make movements in one direction - counterclockwise. It will be easier for you to make sure that the edge of the grater removes all the hills in the area. At this time, the removed solution will fill the small holes on the wall and thus level the surface to be treated.

Experience suggests that the tool must be pressed harder in the place where there are tubercles. And vice versa, reduce the force of pressure on the grater in places where depressions occur. At first glance, the technique seems simple, but it requires some training.

During the working process, a solution accumulates on the side of the instrument, which is best removed from time to time. Otherwise, it may fly off into your face since you are working very close to the surface being treated. There is also no need to dump excess solution on the floor. It can be put together on a spatula and used to fill chips and holes.

When grouting a plastered surface using floats, there are some nuances. This process requires patience and precision. Over time, the plaster sets and becomes more difficult to grout. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly moisten the already dry surface with water using a brush, broom or brush.

Even with great effort, traces of the grater remain on the surface. You can leave them if you don’t need completely smooth walls. For ideal surface treatment, it is necessary to carry out the work using the distillation method.

Competitive grouting

Using this type of grout, you can achieve a completely flat surface, which is prepared mainly for painting. It is important to perform this procedure on wet plaster, and, preferably, immediately after grouting in a circular manner. This work is best done in small sections.

Using a perfectly level grater, move your hand up and down without lifting the tool from the wall. To prevent scratches from the tool on the surface, its edges should be rounded. And do not forget to monitor the moisture content of the coating.

Experts know how to grout plaster to give it the best effect. They start grouting with a wooden or polyurethane float. After this, you can use a grater with a felt attachment to best quality processed plane. For further painting, the walls are treated with a metal float, which gives it a glossy appearance.

At expensive repairs Using a high quality mixture, many craftsmen use smoothing plaster instead of grouting. At the same time, they use the same tool, only of better quality. This surface treatment operation should only be performed on smooth and damp plaster. The smoothing procedure is carried out first in the vertical direction and then in the horizontal direction.

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