The process of making an ax handle should actually begin even before purchasing an axe: you need to acquire a high-quality birch board 35-40 mm thick, which must be carefully dried slowly. It is enough to have an ax weighing no more than 1.5 kg. I note that it may also happen that, having purchased a mounted ax, you feel that the ax handle is not enough. In this case, you can make the ax handle anew, and place an ax with a smaller mass on the free one.
The configuration of the ax handle should not be made with excessive bending. The material for an ax of this type should be a twisted blank from the part of the birch tree close to the rhizome. And since for you the ax, apparently, is not, so to speak, the main breadwinner, you can get by with a simpler configuration of the ax handle.
As a template, you can use the shape of the ax you like (Fig. 1). It is best to cut the workpiece out of the board with a jigsaw, while the allowance on the sides is very small, since the cleanliness of the cut is exceptionally high, and the cutting accuracy is also high. The allowance at the front and rear ends should be more significant.
When roughing a workpiece, excess material along its edges can be removed on a circular saw. At the beginning of the processing, the attachment part of the ax is adjusted using a chisel, a plane, a brute file and a mallet, with the help of which the workpiece is driven into the eye of the ax (Fig. 2,a). The handle of the ax is processed after preliminary mounting of the ax and, as they say, according to the hand. The tools are the same plus sandpaper for sanding.
A cut is made in the front end part of the processed ax handle, which is lightly chipped with a chisel. Then the ax is mounted completely, the protruding part of the ax handle is cut off with a hacksaw and a pointed wedge made of steel 3 mm thick is hammered in (Fig. 2.6). After the wedge enters the ax handle to the required depth, its protruding part is sawed off at a distance of approximately 5-6 mm from the end. I note that the protruding part of the wedge will not be a serious obstacle to the work, however, later, as the ax becomes loose, which can happen for various reasons, it will be possible to drive the wedge in completely, again clearly fixing the ax.
Only after this is the end part of the handle cut off, and the surface of the ax is impregnated with drying oil or coated with oil varnish. It should be noted that sometimes birch has increased propensity to cracking. When this property is discovered at the manufacturing stage close to the finishing stage, hazardous areas near the rear end can be strengthened by drilling holes with a diameter of 8 mm in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the layers. Artificial knots - dowels - are hammered into them with PVA glue, which should be made from less hard wood.
It’s not easy to choose a new one for the cleaver wooden ax handle, the configuration of which is largely determined by individual preferences.
A truly comfortable handle would be a custom-made handle, made using accessible technology that does not require special skills.
Wood processing can be easily done using carpentry workbench or on a replacement desktop. List of the the necessary tool as follows:
- Wood hacksaw;
- Carpenter's axe;
- Plane;
- Hammer;
- Chisel;
- Roulette;
- Sandpaper.
Using power tools ( grinding machine, circular saw or an electric plane), will greatly facilitate the process of making a handle for a cleaver, but you can do without them.
Wood for an ax
The type of wood and the drying of the workpiece determine the durability of the ax for the cleaver. Freshly cut lumps are not suitable for handles: when the wood dries out, it becomes much thinner, cracks and warps. At home, a natural drying method is used, which allows you to prepare the workpiece in a dry shed for two years and in one year if you keep the wood in a heated room. The harvested wood is sawed off 15–20 cm longer than the future ax for the cleaver, in order to subsequently remove the ends covered with cracks.
Among the available tree species best properties Ash has a handle that is strong, elastic and does not dry out much over time. It is easier to find a suitable birch log, but it takes longer to dry, and it rots faster. A maple ax handle is less loose, and is slightly inferior to a birch one in terms of impact strength, but is more durable and easy to process.
Shape and dimensions of the ax
A firewood cleaver should have a slightly curved handle 50–70 cm long for medium logs and 80–100 cm for large stumps. The ax handle is made of an oval cross-section, consisting of two semicircles connected by straight sections. This handle provides a confident grip and tactile control over the trajectory of the cleaving axe. Only the landing part of the ax for the cleaver has egg-shaped, corresponding to the hole in the metal tip. A bend is made in the tail part of the handle in order to better hold the cleaver, which tends to slip out of the hand during strong blows. In addition, the downward-pointing end causes less twisting of the hand at the final moment of the blow.
Making your own handle
First, a block of dried lump is made from a thickness of 3–5 mm greater than the width of the mounting hole. The reserve will allow you to later adjust the workpiece in case of mistaken removal of excess wood somewhere. If it is necessary to remove a thick layer, use an ax or circular saw, then the surfaces are planed with a plane, simultaneously leveling the planes. 
On the resulting workpiece, mark the outline of the ax handle with the same margin of a few millimeters. 
For convenience, the piece of wood is clamped and transverse cuts are made with a hacksaw in increments of 35–40 mm, not reaching the marking line by 2–4 mm. 
Next, use an ax or chisel to knock down pieces of wood in small pieces, following the direction of the chip and not allowing it to go deeper than the drawn contour. 
The shank is filed perpendicular to the axis of the ax handle to reduce the likelihood of chipping the wooden product. 
Having completed the rough processing, mark the dimensions of the mounting hole. 
Why find the center at the end of the workpiece and align the tip along it. 
The final shapes are given to the workpiece by planing the convex surfaces with a plane, and the sunken parts are selected with a sharp knife. 
Working carefully, remove thin shavings and periodically turn the part over to change the direction of the cut. As a result, you get an almost finished ax handle. 
Now the upper end of the handle is chamfered for approach. 
They try to lightly insert the handle into the eye, after which marks will remain on the wood, showing how much material needs to be removed. 
Focusing on these marks, they continue to adjust the axe. Then another test attachment is made to identify areas of chipping. 
Subsequent fine-tuning of the handle is carried out with sandpaper, smoothing out all irregularities and bringing the surfaces to a smooth state. 
The tip is finally placed on the finished ax handle, ensuring an even fit. The protruding end of the piece of wood is cut off with a saw. 
Place the cleaver vertically and hammer in a wedge, the length of which should not exceed the size of the butt to avoid cracking. If the wedge is not completely buried in the wood, the excess is cut off with a hacksaw. 
The handle of a firewood cleaver is impregnated with a protective and decorative compound, leaving the surface rough. Do not use varnishes or oil paints, forming a glossy coating. 
Making slip protection
To protect the ax from accidental slips, a plate is made from a steel plate 2–3 mm thick. The metal is bent with a hammer, holding the part in a vice along with a suitable iron blank. 
The overlay is “finished” directly on the tool handle with light pointed blows of a hammer. 
The protection is fixed to the handle with screws through pre-drilled holes. 
A well-repaired cleaver with your own hands will become a good helper when preparing firewood. 
The condition of the wooden handle should be checked before each splitting of logs. You should not risk your health by working with a tool with an ax that is shriveled and dangling in its socket.
“Come on, give me back my stone axe” - there is probably no person in our country who has not heard this song. Yes, the first axes were made of stone. But this time passed many thousands of years ago, and now they use quality wood and steel.
During the development of civilization, many varieties of this tool have appeared (construction, throwing, etc.) which have not yet lost their relevance. Moreover, on the market you can find many varieties of this product, which are designed to solve certain problems, for example, those facing a hunter or tourist.
Classification of axes
In practice, many types of axes are used, which are designed for working with wood. Conventionally, they can be divided into three types:
- cleavers;
- for logging;
- construction or universal.
Accordingly, there are various designs designed to solve specific problems, for example, a firefighter is equipped with a pick, with which you can pull beams and other structures away from the source of fire.
In addition to this classification, we can offer another one - according to the size of the blade, or more precisely, according to the size of the butt:
- wide;
- average;
- narrow.
The first ones are used in logging, the second ones solve many problems in construction and in everyday life, and the third ones have found their application in carpentry. These tools are also distinguished by the length of the ax handle. That is, the larger it is, the stronger the swing and, accordingly, the blow. There is a difference between the width and shape of the blade. That is, if the tool has a direct sharpening, then it is intended for chopping blows. If the cutting part has a curved sharpening, then it can both chop and cut.
Steel, wood, polymer materials. But as experience shows, nothing better than a wooden (birch) handle has yet been invented. Other materials do not always cope with vibration damping.
The list of existing and widely used tools can be listed for quite a long time, the following can be mentioned:
- Tourist, it has small overall and weight characteristics, its weight is just over half a kilogram, and its length is 350 mm. With its help you can prepare dead wood, perform simple work, for example, to put together a ladder or a raft.
- Hunting. It is used for cutting dead wood and butchering harvested carcasses.
- Scandinavian. This tool is intended for professional woodcutters. It weighs 1.2 kg, with a length of 640 mm.
- Cleaver-sledgehammer. Its use allows you to split any log.
GOST 18578-89 normalizes the main dimensions of the product, maximum tolerances, and roughness parameters of the cutting part. According to the requirements of this document, each product must be marked. This GOST defines the procedure for acceptance and shipment of finished products to the consumer.
Download GOST 18578-89
Work on cutting out an ax handle
This tool is used in almost any household. It is in demand for housework, construction and many other tasks. But, you need to understand that not all tools of this type that are in use have decent reliability. And therefore, some craftsmen make an ax handle with their own hands.
Making an ax is a very responsible task. The comfort of performing work, and most importantly the safety of the worker and the people around him, depends on the parameters of this part.
A stick with a section of a certain shape is far from the best option. When using such a handle, a person quickly gets tired, and work can become unsafe. Therefore, a curved handle with an oval cross-section is used for the tool. The tail part must be widened and bent down. Such an ax handle holds it securely in the hand, even when delivering a sharp blow.
The process of making an ax looks like this:
Material selection
The following grades of wood are used for the handle:
- birch;
- maple and some others.
In order for this detail to turn out High Quality, wood must be harvested before frost. After the workpieces are ready, they need to be dried. They should lie in a ventilated area for about a year. But, some craftsmen claim that the drying period should be about 5 years. In fairness, it must be said that in an emergency, you can use an undried workpiece, but this is a temporary option, the handle will quickly wear out.
Cutting out the template
To obtain an ax of the required size, you must use a template made from cardboard. As a sample, to obtain it, you can use the tool that is convenient to work with. That is, you need to put it on a sheet of thick cardboard and outline it with a pencil.
By the way, the size of the ax can be determined based on the height and physique of the person who will work with it.
Making a blank
A block is hewn out from a block that has been dried. Work must be carried out along the fibers. The size of the bar should be 100 mm larger than the size of the finished product. The size of the part where it will be installed, and the blade itself should be 2 - 3 mm larger than the size of the eye.
The template prepared in advance must be laid on the surface of the block. At the same time, leave allowances for processing. From the front its size is 10 mm, in the tail it is 90 mm. This allowance is necessary so that the handle does not crack when pulled onto the ax itself. Upon completion of work, this allowance is removed.
Hewing out an ax
To bring the details to required sizes, two cuts must be made in the upper and lower parts of the workpiece, but their depth should not reach the contour of 2 mm. Excess material can be removed using a chisel. After this, using a file with a large notch, the corners, transitions and other surfaces of the handle are leveled. Abrasive sandpaper is used to finish the surface.
Impregnation with waterproof compound
To increase the resistance of the handle to moisture, use special compounds. But it is permissible to use drying oil or linseed oil. The handle is covered with this liquid until it stops being absorbed into it.
The handle for the tool should not slip in the hand and therefore, it is not recommended to cover it with any paint and varnish materials or use some kind of pads.
By the way, it wouldn’t hurt to add a coloring pigment to the waterproof coating, for example, orange color. Then the tool with a bright handle will not disappear on the site.
When choosing a piercing part, you must definitely find out what steel it is cast from. Our country has adopted GOST 18578-89. It defines the grades of steel from which it is permissible to make the blade parts of an ax. These are steels - 8ХФ, 9ХФ, 9ХС, ХВГ, У7А, У8, У8А, У8Га, У9, У9А and many others similar in properties to the named grades.
Landing the ax on the handle
Fitting the blade onto the finished handle should be done using markings. To do this, draw a sketch of the eyelet on the upper end. Then you need to mark the length of the piercing part on it. And after that you can begin installing the blade on the handle.
After choosing a tool, the owner is faced with new task- how to sharpen it. Yes, the manufacturer supplies this tool in a ready-made condition. But sooner or later, the sharpening done in the factory workshops will become dull and the need for independent editing will arise. Practice shows that it is better to spend some time on editing it than to do the work with a blunt instrument. It is advisable to perform turning of a product using a template. It is made independently. To do this you will need a small piece of tin. After choosing the sharpening angle, you need to mark it on the sheet metal and cut out the angle. After this, attach the template to the blade. The angle of deviation from the required one will be immediately visible. Using a marker, apply to cutting edge corresponding labels.
When sharpening, the master must consider the following factors:
Characteristics of the wood he will have to work with. What kind of work will have to be done, harvesting lumber is one thing, cutting out locks on logs installed in a log house is another. Of course, the material from which the blade is made must also be taken into account.
How to make a battle ax
Not all axes can be purchased in the store; for example, it is impossible to buy a battle axe. And therefore, if you want to get such a product, it’s easier to make an ax with your own hands.
You can take an ordinary construction tool as a basis, see Fig. 2, and use it to make a combat blade.
It has certain disadvantages:
- It has an irrational form.
- It has excess mass, which will interfere with manipulations during the battle.
Viking battle ax
It should also be noted that the upper ledge will create difficulties during chopping and striking. That is, it gives the ax an unnecessary torque directed counterclockwise, thus causing increased wear on the ax handle. It won't hurt to grind off the protrusion located below. In addition, straight sharpening is not entirely suitable for battle ax.
How to make an ax from wood
How to make an ax from wood? To do this, you need to prepare a wedge-shaped blank from which you will need to make a blade. On the surface of the workpiece, you need to draw the outline of the future toy with a marker. Excess material can be removed using an abrasive sharpener.
At the next stage, on the end surface of the workpiece it is necessary to mark the outline of the hole for the ax handle. The technology for obtaining the handle is described above, but it is necessary to correct the dimensions.
Bringing the blade and handle to the required shape can be done using a sharpener or file. In a fairly short time, the children's ax will be ready.
What product does a hunter who spends a lot of time in conditions need? wildlife how it can be done. Yes, no one argues, in specialized stores you can buy a product for every taste. But not all of them meet the needs of hunters.
In order to make the cutting part of a product for hunting, you need to use a solid piece of metal. But somehow it’s more common to hold an ax with a wooden handle. For the manufacture of the blade, grade 1040 steel is used, this is a structural alloy steel, the Russian equivalent is 40G.
You can make the cutting part by ordering it from the village smithy. Master, able to forge necessary preparation under the blade. He is also able to make and install a steel handle. If such a handle does not suit you, then you can install a wooden one. When making it, you need to take into account some simple rules:
The handle cannot be varnished - the hand will slip.
When choosing its shape, it is necessary to take into account the width of the grip of the palm; it is necessary to make stops that will allow you to hold the ax in your hand.
How to make a taiga ax
Before you do taiga ax, we need to understand how it differs from the traditional one? It has a different blade shape and ax handle parameters. That is, you can take an ordinary ax as a basis. Change the shape of its sharpening, remove excess material in the upper part, by analogy with the combat one.
You can use an angle grinder to remove excess material.
The ax handle can be made from birch. To secure it more securely in the blade, you can wrap a bandage impregnated with epoxy resin. It makes sense to soak the handle itself with linseed oil.
An ax was one of the most common types of bladed weapons in ancient times. It was much cheaper and more practical than a sword, the production of which required a huge amount of scarce iron, and in terms of combat effectiveness it was in no way inferior to it. An ideal example of this type of weapon is Viking axes, which will be discussed in this article.
Where did they come from?
Where did combat and utility knives come from? Ancient axes were very vaguely similar to their modern “descendants”: forget about pieces of sharpened flint, fastened with ropes to the shaft! Much more often they took the form of a drilled cobblestone impaled on a stick. Simply put, initially axes were not a chopping weapon at all, but a crushing weapon.
And this is justified. Imagine a relatively thin, chipped piece of flint: what will happen to it if the owner hits a shield, wood or stone? That's right, you can say goodbye to the weapon, since this mineral is very brittle. And this is in the midst of battle! So a stone mounted on a strong shaft is a much more reliable weapon. And an ax in it modern form could appear only after humanity mastered the basics of metalworking.
Basic information
Contrary to popular belief, Viking axes, even the most menacing in appearance, were never heavy. Maximum - 600 grams, no more. In addition, the shaft was never bound with iron! Firstly, metal used to be extremely expensive. Secondly, it made the ax heavier, and a massive weapon in a long battle could lead to the death of the owner.
Another misconception of our time is “the ax is the weapon of the common people.” They say that all “self-respecting” Viking leaders used swords. This is one of the Hollywood myths about the Vikings. An ax is much more practical, simpler, and it’s not such a shame to lose it in the heat of battle. A good sword made of “good” iron was so expensive that archaeologists have so far been able to find only single copies of such weapons.
Confirmation of this is the found graves of military leaders and high-ranking “philistines”. Sometimes entire arsenals were found in them, including many axes. So this weapon is truly universal; it was used by both ordinary soldiers and their commanders.
The emergence of two-handed axes
But the favorite “toy” of the northern peoples was the legendary brodax, also known as a two-handed ax on a long shaft (that’s what the Viking ax is called, by the way). In periodicals it is often called the “Danish axe,” but this name is not very true, since it does not fully convey the very essence of this weapon. Brodax's "finest hour" came in the 11th century. Then people armed with it could be found from Karelia to Britain.
In full accordance with the ancient sagas, the Vikings simply loved to give their weapons sublime and epic names. For example, “friend of the Shield”, “Battle Witch”, “Wound Wolf”. Of course, only the best and highest quality samples received such treatment.
How were two-handed axes different?
In appearance, the Brodax blades were very large and massive, but this impression is only partly true. During manufacturing, the blade of such axes was significantly thinned to save precious weight. But the “axe” itself could indeed be large: the distance from one tip of the blade to the other often reached 30 cm, and this despite the fact that the “working body” of the Viking ax almost always had a significant bend. Such weapons caused terrible wounds.
The handles had to be large for a reliable swing... and indeed they were! The “average” brodax, with its shaft pressed into the ground, reached the standing warrior’s chin, but more “epic” examples were often encountered. These axes were extremely powerful weapons, but still one serious drawback they had. Since the shaft had to be held with both hands, the warrior was automatically left without the protection of a shield. And therefore, the “classic” one-handed axes of the Vikings occupied far from the last place in the life of the Vikings.
Influence on the military affairs of the Slavs
Many similar weapons were found in and on the territory of our country. Brodaxes are especially common, and such finds are most typical for the Leningrad region. Around the 12th-13th centuries, the situation in those parts became less “tense”, and the list of standard weapons gradually changed. Viking axes with wide blades are gradually “transformed” into relatively harmless household tools.
By the way, according to historians and archaeologists, it was during the period of maximum distribution of Brodaxes in Rus' that a real “boom” in the development of domestic weapons thought of those years occurred. Battle axes in Rus', created under the influence of the Varangians, absorbed all the best from European, Asian and Scythian samples. Why do we pay attention to this? It's simple: the evolved Russian axes will later appeal to the descendants of the Normans.
Combined models
Exactly Kievan Rus gave a second life combined options, with a striker on the butt. Such weapons were once highly valued by the Scythians. It was these axes that the Vikings would “get their hands on” in the 10th-11th centuries, and from our country these weapons would begin their march across the countries Western Europe. It should be noted that initially the Vikings used klevets with a simple, round or mushroom-shaped cross-section.
But already in the 12th century, battle axes in Rus' acquired coinage square shape. This evolution is quite simple to explain: if initially the military people wore chain mail and other light armor, then over time the armor became more and more serious. It was necessary to punch it, so pliers and “punchers” with a pronounced faceted section appeared. The most striking representative of the Varangian-Russian axes is the hatchet of Andrei Bogolyubsky. Most likely, it never belonged to the prince himself, but was made precisely during the historical period we are describing.
Weapons of "modern Vikings"
Today, by the way, modern replicas of these weapons are produced. Where can I buy such an ax? Kizlyar (“Viking” is one of the most popular models) is the new “homeland” of excellent weapons. If you belong to the enthusiastic reenactors, then best choice you won't find anywhere else.
Why not a sword?
As we have already noted, the ax is often perceived by the average person as a weapon of a lumberjack and owner, but not of a warrior. Theoretically, this assumption has some logical premises: firstly, these weapons are much easier to manufacture. Secondly, even more or less tolerable mastery of the sword required at least ten years, while the ax was with a person constantly in those days, and improvement in the skills of its use occurred, so to speak, “on the job.”
But this point of view is only partly true. Almost the only factor in choosing a weapon was its combat practicality. Many historians believe that the ax was supplanted by the sword due to its great weight. And this is also not entirely true. Firstly, the weight of the Viking ax was only slightly greater than the mass of a combat sword (or even less - the mass of the ax itself was no more than 600 grams). Secondly, swinging the sword also required a lot of space.
Most likely, in historical perspective, the ax gave way to its place due to advances in metallurgy. There was more steel, soldiers could be provided for big amount albeit inferior, but technologically advanced and cheap swords, the combat technique of which was much simpler and did not require such significant physical data from the “user”. It must be remembered that the fights of that time were by no means elegant fencing, the matter was decided by two or three blows, the better prepared person had the advantage, and therefore both the ax and the sword in this regard were weapons of equal value.
Economic importance
But we should not forget about one more reason for the popularity of axes. The Viking ax (whose name is Brodax) also had purely economic significance. Simply put, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to build a fortified camp with the same sword; they won’t be able to repair a combat longship, they won’t be able to make equipment, and, in the end, they won’t be able to chop wood either. Considering that the Vikings spent most of their lives on campaigns and at home were engaged in completely peaceful affairs, the choice of an ax was more than justified due to its high practicality.
An ax as a weapon of noble warriors
Judging by the chronicles and finds of archaeologists, this type of weapon was very popular among Scandinavian warriors. Thus, the well-known king Olaf the Saint in his time was the owner of a battle ax with the expressive name “Hel”. So, by the way, the ancient Scandinavians called Eirik, whose son had the respectful nickname “Bloody Axe,” which quite transparently hints at his preferences in the field of choosing weapons.
There are frequent references to “axes lined with silver” in written sources, and in last years Scientists have found many archaeological artifacts testifying to the truth of these words. Such, in particular, was the famous Mamennsky axe, on the surface of which amazing and beautiful patterns formed by hammered silver thread are visible. Naturally, such weapons had status and emphasized the high position of the owner in society.
The Sutton Hoo burial also shows great respect for battle axes, as many richly decorated axes were discovered there. Judging by the luxury of this burial ground, one of the outstanding military leaders of the Angles or Saxons was probably buried there. What is characteristic: the deceased himself was buried “embracing” an ax with practically no decorations on it. This is purely so that during his lifetime this man clearly preferred axes.
Sacred meaning
There is another circumstance that indicates the respect with which the northerners treated axes. Archaeological and written sources clearly indicate that the Viking “axe” tattoo was extremely common in the period from the 10th to the 15th centuries. This weapon, one way or another, appeared in almost all the combat patterns with which professional warriors decorated their bodies.
It is also worth noting that the Viking Ax amulet was no less common. Almost every second neck pendant included a miniature figurine of an axe. It was believed that such decoration bestows the strength, power and intelligence of a real warrior.
Self-production
If you are a professional reenactor, then the Viking ax (made by Kizlyar) may be the ideal choice. But such a “toy” is not very cheap, and therefore many fans of medieval weapons may have the idea of self-production this weapon. How realistic is this? Is it possible to make a Viking ax with your own hands?
Yes, it's quite possible. Base for ancient weapons An ordinary ax can serve, from which, with the help of a grinder, all excess is simply cut off. After which, using the same angle grinder, the entire surface is carefully ground, on which there should be no burrs or protruding pieces of metal.
Other notes
As you can see, making a Viking ax with your own hands is relatively easy, and it won’t require much expense. The disadvantage of this method is that the resulting weapon will only have decorative function, since they will no longer be able to carry out household work.
To create an authentic sample, you will have to use the help of a professional blacksmith, since only forging will allow you to get a truly fully functional ax, an analogue of the axes that the Vikings once fought with. Here's how to make a Viking axe.
Axes are indispensable tools for work in dachas, vegetable gardens, when going on a picnic, etc. How to make an ax that is easy to use? There are many answers to this question technical solutions. The choice of a specific solution depends on the tasks that the tool must solve. Recently, there has been a demand for a battle ax from historical reenactors. Different tasks for this tool require different approach for their manufacture. Below, the emphasis will be placed not on making an ax from scratch, but on remaking common models and creating a convenient ax to suit your hand.
The ax is one of essential tools on suburban area. It can be made completely from scratch, or you can update an old tool.
Axes: types and differences
An ax is one of the most ancient human tools, having many varieties. Many archaeological finds indicate that the ax was an integral tool and weapon of man.
They performed a huge amount of work: cutting down trees, scraping out dense animal skins, trimming wood and, of course, killing their own kind. With the development of humanity, axes began to evolve. Their development followed the directions of their activities; they began to have narrow “specifics”. Today there are a huge number of varieties of axes, however, we will focus on the most common types:
- Plotnitsky. Today this species is the most widespread. This is due to the fact that up to 90% of all tasks can be completed with such a tool. possible works. The weight of such products can vary from 800 grams to 2 kg. The most common axes weighing about 1.5 kg. They are comfortable cutting down small trees, trimming logs, butchering animal carcasses... Besides everything else, this type of tool is most often produced by various enterprises, which significantly reduces its cost.
- Taiga axe. This is a rather heavy ax (about 1.0-1.2 kg), a type of cleaver. The difference is the long (about 0.5 meter) handle. The main purpose is felling and cutting of wood. It is very popular among hunters, fishermen, tourists, geologists, etc. You can easily make a taiga ax out of a carpenter's axe.
- Cleaver. The cross-sectional shape of such a tool is a triangular wedge. It is designed for cutting wood. Quite heavy (about 2 kg).
- Battle axes are relatively light (about 0.5-0.8 kg) axes that are attached to a long shaft (handle) of 0.5 m or more. Thanks to historical clubs, there is a demand for them. There are several varieties of such products: two-handed/one-handed, double-sided. Today they are made to order, and most often carpenter's axes are converted into antique battle axes.
- Various small-sized tourist hatchets. These are very dubious devices with short and not always comfortable handles. They are problematic for felling and cutting wood thicker than 30 cm in diameter, and in addition, most companies (including branded ones, such as Fiskars) make plastic axes, which in case of breakage are almost impossible to replace. Some manufacturers (mainly Chinese) make the handle disproportionate to the hand of the average person, which leads to hand fatigue after 5-7 minutes of work. To top it all off, low mass the ax itself (up to 0.8 kg) requires significant physical effort when working. Such products can often be found in stores, they are often advertised, but purchasing them is not recommended due to their low ease of use.
- Stone axes. These are homemade products made from stone using “ancient” technologies. Practiced among bushcrafters or simply lovers of antiques. They can be easily made from scrap materials with your own hands if you have silicon at your disposal.
In addition to their purpose, all types have their own design differences:
- The main design difference of a carpenter's ax is that the toe has the same shape and size as the heel. If you roughly draw a line from the middle of the butt width to the middle (height) of the blade, then both parts will be symmetrical. The toe and heel are rounded at some angle (often different models and manufacturers angles do not match). This design is convenient for “fine” work with logs. For convenience, the handle (axe) is made relatively short.
- The toe and blade of the cleaver usually form a right angle (this is also true for the taiga one). This solution allows you to split wood without getting stuck in it. For felling and cutting large logs, the splitting axes are made quite wide. This increases their weight and makes them untransportable on long, non-transportable journeys.
- The main difference between a taiga ax and a cleaver is weight. To reduce it, “taiga” ones are made narrower in cross-section, and in addition, they try to “cut off” all unnecessary metal. This is how a cut is made from the heel to the beginning of the butt along an arc.
- Battle axes have a low and narrow (in cross-section) blade. Often with reverse side there is a thorn. The butt is also made narrow.
Selecting and remaking an ax
Before purchasing a tool, you should clearly define the tasks that the ax will solve.
Even in the absence the desired type in stores, you can always make it yourself by purchasing and remaking a carpenter’s axe.
You should start by choosing a carpenter's axe. The first thing that needs to be determined is the steel from which it is made. Today, Damascus steel is considered the “coolest”; products from it are made by both private blacksmiths and some companies.
Domestic manufacturers most often use 65G steel to manufacture their products. It is a fairly hard (about 55 Rockwell) spring steel that performs well in woodworking work. As mentioned above, almost 90% of all axes are made for carpentry.
Choosing an ax for a carpenter is not difficult. The first thing to do is decide on the mass. For precise and “fine” finishing work, you need to take an ax of about 0.5 kg, for rougher ones - about 1.5 kg.
It is important to remember that the handle of a purchased ax is made from a factory and in 99% of cases it will be uncomfortable. How to make an ax handle will be discussed below.
If you need a taiga ax, but it’s not on sale, then it’s quite easy to convert a carpenter’s ax into the desired design. To do this, you should carefully select the ax by weight. Since excess metal will be cut off during reworking, the weight of the ax will accordingly decrease. The acceptable weight of a taiga is 1-1.2 kg (without an ax). Therefore, to achieve such indicators, you should take a carpenter’s weight of about 1.3-1.5 kg. To remake a carpenter's tool, you need to cut the toe so that it forms an almost right angle with the blade. Also, to make it easier, all the metal under the heel is cut off.
To do this, you need to apply a marking - an arc from the lower end of the butt to the heel. If the cut is made in a straight butt-heel direction, this will worsen the strength of the axe.
You can cut metal with a grinder, but it is important to constantly water the cut areas with water to cool.
Otherwise, there is a very high probability of overheating the blade, which will significantly reduce hardness and strength.
Similarly from carpenter's axes do combat.
When the ax is ready, you should make an ax handle and connect them.
How to make an ax handle
The most convenient are curved axes with an oval cross-section. This shape allows you not to strain your hand when working, which will allow your hand not to get tired. For different types axes differ only in the size of the bend and the length.
For taiga - the length should be from 0.5 to 1 m, the bend should be such that the lower end of the ax is in line with the middle of the blade and the toe. Carpenter's ones have a short (up to 0.5 m) handle, which has a small bend angle. Battle axes are mounted on a long and almost even ax handle. The section is selected based on the hole in the butt of the axe. Despite the differences in the sizes and shapes of the handles, the technology for their manufacture is almost the same.
To make an ax handle, you should select a blank the right size. This could be a board or a log. Next, markings are applied and all excess is cut off, after which it is thoroughly sanded sandpaper and coated with varnish. On the side where the ax is attached, cuts are made along the cross-section in the made ax handle to drive in spacer wedges. After which the ax is placed on the ax handle and pushed apart with wedges.
