Make a summer extension to. Types of extensions to the house. What building materials can be used to build an extension?

The advantage of private real estate lies primarily in the fact that you can easily make an extension to a wooden house without problems and significant costs. For example, you can quickly and easily make an extension of 10-15 m², which serves as a veranda, kitchen or place for receiving guests. The addition to the main house must be done so that everything looks harmonious, and at the same time is comfortable and functional.

What to make an extension to a wooden house from

It is also worth paying attention to the materials from which the extension is made. If the house is wooden, then it is quite possible to supplement it with square meters of wood or even timber. This way the overall concept of the building will not be disrupted, and everything will seem more beautiful and comfortable. Wood not only simplifies the work on the product, but also saves a lot of money. A big plus of this material is that it is warm enough. However, to use the premises all year round It is still worth doing additional insulation work.

In some cases, craftsmen choose brick for work. This is a more expensive material, but it has its advantages. First of all, bricks always retain heat well, so minimal insulation work will be required. In addition, maintenance of the extension will be simple, which distinguishes this material from wood.

However, when they add to a wooden house additional room made of brick, it may not look very good. Therefore, you will have to choose between practicality and appearance. Or, as an option, you can then use external finishing materials of the same type on the entire house at once, including the attached room.

Do-it-yourself outbuildings made from timber look very nice. This durable material, which will last a long time if you care for it properly. The appearance of the building itself is immediately transformed, and the house becomes like a fairy-tale hut. But the price quality material this type can be high.

The most inexpensive option is considered to be a do-it-yourself frame extension to a private house. Such construction methods have recently become very popular. Manufacturers offer to build entire houses of 2-3 floors in a short time. As for the extension, its construction in in this case it won't cost much. Frame buildings always demand high-quality insulation and waterproofing. But still, they significantly outperform all other options in price, speed of work and even appearance. A frame extension will look good next to a wooden or brick house. This is an excellent option for budget-conscious owners.

Where to begin

Before you make an extension to a brick house or any other house with your own hands, you must first coordinate this with government organizations. Initially, design documents are drawn up taking into account all the nuances, but the work with government agencies does not end there, since upon completion of construction the extension will need to be legally registered. All such issues are resolved in the administration of the locality or in multifunctional centers.

You should not start work before all the details have been agreed upon. Otherwise, if something goes wrong, you will have to remove what has already been created, and this is troublesome and expensive.

Next, you need to purchase the material according to the planned estimate. It can be wood, timber, brick or stone. It must be taken into account that the type of materials must meet all the requirements of the building. If it is planned to be small and will not be loaded with a powerful roof, then you can take an ordinary tree. For permanent buildings it is still worth using stone or brick.

Experts strongly recommend initial stage check all the nuances and consult with professional architects. This is especially true in cases where heavy materials are planned to be used. Of course, the extension is not a second floor. However, even this can significantly load the main building. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to carefully check the serviceability of all components, the quality of the foundation and consult with specialists.

If building an extension seems like too much work, you can entrust it to professionals. In this case, you can save not only time, but money. If you opt for a modern frame option, it will be both beautiful and cheap. And the main thing is that such buildings are very light, so they do not load the main building at all.

Those who decide to make an extension to their house with their own hands should take into account that incorrect actions will lead to the load on the structure being too large. If the house is old, a professional preliminary diagnosis is necessary. An insufficiently strong foundation can cause the building to completely collapse, so when creating an extension, the master risks being left without housing at all.

Extension construction technology

As for how to make an extension to the house, the main thing is not to damage the main house and get additional square meters. To do this, it is necessary to carry out qualitative preparatory work. They must be multifaceted, that is, every detail must be studied.

First of all, it is necessary to check the quality of the foundation, its depth and width. This will determine whether the foundation can withstand the additional load of an extension.

In order to get a warm building, its walls must fit tightly to the main building. But this is only permissible if the structure is well preserved. In addition, you need to immediately think about movement options, namely doors and passages. It is quite possible that in the place where the extension to country house will connect to the main building, you will have to make an additional arch under the door. Here it is necessary to clarify whether the wall will withstand this. Sometimes it happens that the walls look quite normal. But once you start diagnosing, numerous shortcomings are revealed.

Special requirements always applied to the roof. It should be light enough and match the type of construction. There are 2 options for how to properly install a roof in an extension to a house. In the first case, it can be a continuation of the main roof, and in the second - a separate roof. Both one and the second method have their pros and cons. If you make a solid roof, the entire structure will look beautiful and harmonious. But there will be one minus indoors, namely a sloping roof or the need to build a small attic and additional insulation. A straight roof doesn't look very nice from the outside, but it will be more beautiful on the inside. convenient option for further interior decoration.

Extensions that will be made of wood require special attention. This material is different in that it requires shrinkage. This process takes a certain amount of time, and sometimes reaches several years. Therefore, in the first years of use attached structure may settle and move away from the main wall. If it is initially fastened very tightly, it may damage the main wall. Therefore, the wooden frame must be left at first. Only after it has settled can you begin to design and strengthen the wooden extension.

As for the foundation for the extension, it of great importance does not have. If the main building is on a solid and high-quality foundation, then a pile foundation can be used to build an extension.

It is believed that making an extension to a wooden, brick or stone house is a very simple task. In fact, it is much easier than building a second floor. However, if certain requirements are not met when constructing an extension, this can have a very bad effect not only on the quality and functionality of the new building, but also damage the existing building. Therefore, you should be extremely careful and attentive.

Simple extension to a wooden house

The complexity of the work always depends on the type of project. Some try to make the extension create additional space, but also become a decoration of the building. But such options are quite complex both in execution and in choice. the right materials. If you don’t want to deal with difficulties, you can make a simple extension with your own hands quickly and inexpensively.

The first step will be to select the optimal location for future construction. At this stage, you need to assess your financial capabilities, select suitable materials, decide on the size of the building and resolve the issue of permitting documents.

Next, you can proceed to the foundation. For a simple and light structure there is no need to make a powerful base. Most often, craftsmen refuse a monolithic foundation and opt for a strip type or columnar base. For a small frame extension or veranda this will be quite enough.

Before you build walls, you need to take care of the arch for the door from the house. In order not to destroy part of the wall, it is recommended to make a passage in place of an existing door or window.

After the foundation is poured and it is completely ready, you can begin to work on the walls. The easiest way is to make extensions to wooden or brick houses from solid sheets. That is, the extension will be frame type. It is advisable to place the posts for fastening the panels and further installation of the roof at a distance of about 1.5 m from each other, but no more. After they are securely secured, you can begin lining the walls. The final stage will be the installation of the roof and complete sealing of the room.

Experts most often recommend a roof for extensions that will be a continuation of the main roof. This way the whole building as a whole will look more harmonious and attractive. The extension will no longer look like a growth on the house, but will become a full-fledged part of it. If you use the same materials to decorate the facade as for the house, then everything will look very harmonious. But there is no need to rush with the exterior decoration. In addition, you need to wait some time before installing windows and doors. The extension needs to be given time to stand and settle. Only after this can further work be continued.

Insulation of the building

In order for the room to be used at any time of the year, you need to know how to insulate the building. This is not a difficult job, but it requires compliance with certain rules. First you need to choose insulation. The most popular materials are Izover, Izorok, URSA and Rockwood. All of them are inexpensive and consist of mineral wool. For 1 m² of wall it will cost about 70 rubles.

Most often, mineral wool is used for insulation. It is laid under sheets of plasterboard, which are then used to cover the walls and ceiling. But the insulation work does not end there. All seams between the sheets must be carefully sealed with putty. Only after this can you begin further decoration of the walls, that is, painting, wallpapering and other types of finishing works.

But in order for the room to winter period was suitable for use, all windows and doors must also be insulated. For this purpose, special materials are used to retain a lot of heat in the house.

At the right approach and quality work done, you can live in a room you built with your own hands at any time of the year. From an ordinary summer veranda it will turn into a full-fledged building where you can equip a living room with a fireplace or a room for another purpose. Insulation work for an extension with an area of ​​12 m² and a ceiling height of 3 m will cost approximately 10 thousand rubles.

A do-it-yourself extension to a house is a common way to increase living space. In truth, we have it as a legacy of the times when the state’s attitude to individual housing construction was expressed by the principle “Saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.” Back then, in privately built areas, there were shacks, the sight of which would give nightmares to sworn surrealists.

However, the expansion of housing with extensions has always been and remains relevant today as a means of avoiding unbearable credit bondage on long years. There are ways, but they are beyond the power of a large family nest - construction costs relative to the size of the building grow according to a power law. However, build a house first minimum sizes, just so that you can live, and then, as needed, make an extension to the house, and another, and another, quite possibly on your own budget. Moreover, a house overgrown with correctly executed extensions can be more comfortable, more beautiful and better integrated into the surrounding environment than the original one, see fig.:

Just keep in mind that the construction of the extension is organizationally and technically more complex than the main building. Why? Because the extension affects it in various ways, see below. In conditions where private housing is fully legalized and insured, the accident rate caused by the extension is unacceptable. That's why the cost of a square turnkey extension will be significantly more expensive than a new building, and an independent developer will face specific problems. This article is written about which ones, from which side to approach their solution, where to look for the optimum and how to build an extension correctly.

Organizational issues

Self-developers, of course, are primarily interested in: is it really possible to legitimize a self-built extension? If the residential building is already a legalized squatter building, then it is unrealistic. Self-construction is legitimized based on the results of the building’s operation. Roughly speaking, is it worth it? And screw him, let him continue standing. But shish with him and shish with him already gives something like “fuck him…”, because... there are no reference initial parameters to determine the future fate of the structure. Self-construction is legalized once and for all, and the negative consequences of the extension may take 10 years or more to affect. That is, the owner, a quarrelsome and quarrelsome person, has a formal reason for counterclaims: yeah, they legitimized it incorrectly! Well, compensate! Which is also completely unrealistic, but you can drink blood and shake your and other people’s nerves to your heart’s content.

Note: for a “complete self-construction” of a house with an extension, the only option for legalization is to delay the legalization of the main building until the extension is ready, and then legalize everything together.

As for old standard housing or built according to an approved project, the possibility of legitimizing an unauthorized extension to it depends on its type and design, see below. There are no extensions that are automatically legalized. Therefore, regardless of how the old house was built, if you plan to add on, be prepared to follow the trail. epic:

• Geological surveys at the construction site and inspection of the main structure;
• Obtaining permission from the land owner (if the area under the house is rented);
• Obtaining permission from neighbors for construction;
• Design of an extension, independently or to order by specialists;
• Approval of the project by a licensed construction organization, firefighters, sanitation workers, electricians, utility workers. Most often combined with paragraphs. 1 and 4 by order from a licensed construction company, it’s cheaper and faster;
• Obtaining a building permit from the local municipality - at an architectural office, at a meeting of the village/township council. It is also possible to combine with paragraphs. 1, 4 and 5. This is called a turnkey project or an anchored project;
• Construction;
• Acceptance of the structure by representatives of the authority that issued the permit;
• Renewal of contracts with utility companies for increased living space;
• Re-registration of housing with increased living space in the cadastre and tax authorities.

Let's hope that the further material in the article will help you understand the proposed projects or even, if you have already built yourself and know how to use construction calculation programs, develop an extension project yourself. The specialists at licensed companies know their stuff: they’ll see that it’s been written correctly, ask a couple of questions, and they’ll give it a go.

Geology

Projects for extensions are developed based on the results of surveys on construction geology and an audit of the existing building, even if the house is standard. On-site surveys are not a cheap undertaking, but the extension will be reliable and will not reduce the reliability of the house if and only if, unlike a new building, the soil underneath is homogeneous and its basic properties are as close as possible to those under the house. To determine whether it is even possible to build an extension in a given place, in the area for the extension, soil samples are taken in advance with a garden drill from the same depth within 1-1.5 m in an envelope - in the corners and in the center. The time for sampling is a really warm spring, when the soil above dries out; in mid-latitudes – early May. There should be no rain for at least 3-4 days before sampling. Before sampling, wells are thoroughly cleaned of soil that has crumbled from above. Each sample is immediately poured into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid; plastic bags are no good!

First, we evaluate the heaving, subsidence and load-bearing properties of the soil visual inspection samples; under the house and the extension they must match to within a class. For example, a house on dry, non-heaving and low-subsidence sandy loam with a bearing capacity less than normal 1.7 kgf/sq. cm. And 2 m from the wall, i.e. under the proposed extension there is also non-heaving, but completely non-sagging cartilage or gravel with a load-bearing capacity that is obviously greater than normal. You can't fit in. Or, let’s say, instead of cartilage, dry silty sand, not heaving, but more subsident and weakly load-bearing; The result is the same.

Note: add to the house with your own hands if the bearing capacity of the soil on the site is less than 1.7 kgf/sq. cm, as well as on moderately, strongly and excessively heaving soils, subsidence and/or excessively watered by unauthorized construction without a project, it is categorically not recommended. At best, no one will ever legitimize such an extension in an honest manner. At worst, you will irreparably damage your old home.

If no visible differences are found in the samples that impede construction, we evaluate the homogeneity of the basic properties of the soil, including its water content and plasticity, in a comprehensive manner, based on relative humidity. For this:

1. We weigh the enameled steel vessel and write down its weight Vp.
2. Pour part of the sample into the container, immediately weigh it, and record the initial gross weight Ext.
3. Heat the container with the sample over low heat until the soil crumbles into dust, i.e. will not dry completely.
4. We also immediately weigh the container with the sample and record the final gross weight Vk.
5. We calculate the initial and final net weights of the sample Рн = Вн – Вп; Rk = Vk – Vp.
6. We calculate the relative humidity of the sample as H = 1 – (Rk/Rn).

For example, the initial net weight of the sample is 440 g, and the final net weight is 365 g. Its relative humidity will be 1 - (365/440) = 1 - 0.83 = 0.17 or 17%. The H values ​​for all samples must coincide to within 10 percentage points (percentage of percent), if self-construction is planned, or up to 20 percentage points, if the project is developed by specialists and approved as expected. Let's say all samples gave moisture values ​​of 17%, 18.7%, 16%, 16.5% and 19%. Deviation is calculated from least values ​​and its permissible value will be 1.6% for self-construction, and 3.2% for project construction. In this case, self-construction is impossible; geology must be ordered and a project developed.

Technical problems

The first thing you need to know here is There are no prefabricated extensions. The foundation of even the lightest extension must last at least a year before construction continues, and the foundation of a massive residential extension - from 2 years, depending on the results of measurements of its horizontalness, see below. In general, an extension to a private house can affect its condition according to the following. factors:

• Soil mechanics - the old house on the foundation has already settled, but the extension is yet to do so.
• Structural mechanics - an extension adjacent to or attached to a house will transfer to the structure of the existing building both loads during settlement of the extension, as well as operational weight, wind and snow loads. The design of the extension (see below) must be coordinated in terms of construction mechanics not only with the expected loads, but also with the design of the main building.
• Thermal engineering - an extension at any stage of its construction should not disturb the existing thermal balance under the existing building.
• Technological - parts of the extension will have to be attached to the structure of the main building. It is also possible to make openings in its load-bearing walls. Both should not weaken the main structure.

Special mention should be made about heating engineering. A properly built house does not sway from year to year in accordance with seasonal soil movements, even on a shallow foundation. A warm pit is formed under it - an area where the ground temperature does not fall below zero. The blind area around the house expands the warm pit to the sides, which is useful in all cases and makes it much easier to connect the extension to the house. The extension, in turn, so that the house does not lose stability, must smoothly and gradually, without hesitation back and forth, pull the “tongue” of the warm pit under itself. This trace is achieved. way:

1. The foundation of the extension is laid in the spring with the arrival of real warmth.
2. If the foundation of the extension is columnar or piled (see below), then immediately after laying it, a base is built around the perimeter of the extension; maybe temporary, from slate fragments, etc.
3. It is also very, very advisable to immediately make a blind area on a sand and gravel bed around the perimeter of the extension.
4. The foundation is filled with expanded clay flush with the base.
5. A temporary shelter from precipitation with gentle slopes, for example, is built over a foundation filled with insulation. made of film on poles.
6. Construction continues no earlier than a year after the foundation is laid.

Note: the indicated difficulties in geology and design of the extension do not apply to country houses, because They are legally uninhabited. The rule still applies here: the developer’s problems are the developer’s problems. However, if dacha buildings are subject to real estate taxes, they will have to be converted into residential ones. The consequence is that if you are planning to move from the city to the countryside forever, now is the time to fully equip the country house for housing, incl. and outbuildings. Then the authorities will not go anywhere, they will have to legitimize everything that is set up as is, as long as it stands.

About materials

One of the factors that excludes the legalization of any unauthorized construction is the non-compliance of the materials used with the requirements of SNiP. In safety rules in any industry, the principle of the presumption of innocence does not apply, and it is impossible to prove later that you are not a camel, and that the camel is not you. Therefore, take materials for the extension from certified sellers and, in addition sales receipt, request a copy of the manufacturer's certificate for the material. An exception is used red brick, if it has been inspected and certified for use in the material statement for the project by a specialist from the design organization.

Types of extensions

Options for building extensions to a house are shown in Fig: non-residential (unheated and not insulated) open, non-residential closed, residential light and residential massive. Only electricity can be supplied to non-residential extensions from communications through a separate circuit breaker and RCD (residual current device). The light residential extension is also supplied with only electricity, but this can be done from the general house network. Heating – local stove or electric, for example, heated floor; in this case, you need a separate automatic circuit breaker and an RCD for heating. Any communications are connected to the massive residential extension without additional restrictions.

Connection with home

The next important factor in the classification of extensions is the degree of their connection with the main structure. Based on connectivity, extensions are divided into:

• Remote - spaced from the house at a distance of at least 3 depths deeper than the entire laid foundation, incl. pile If, for example, the house is on a strip buried 1.6 m deep, and the bathhouse nearby is on piles driven 2.2 m deep, then it should be at least 6.6 m away from the house.
• Adjacent - not meeting the criterion of remoteness, but not having a complete mechanical connection with the house, i.e. The foundation of the extension is separate, there are walls on it on all sides, incl. and facing the house. Most often, in order to save land, materials and work, they are built adjacent to the house and under a common roof with it. Self-construction with subsequent legalization is possible if the foundation of the extension is chosen and laid correctly, see above and below. All types of extensions, except massive residential ones, can be built adjacent to them.
• Connected - having at least one common load-bearing wall and/or common branch/section of the foundation tape with the house. A massive warm extension to the house is carried out only in connection with the main building. The legalization of self-construction is unlikely; in fact, it is a question of your relationship with local authorities and their attitude towards you.

Residential extensions to houses are most often built adjacent, and missing communications are installed after acceptance - who will check if the house is standing and people live in it? The tax office and utility workers will still count theirs for the living space. The strip foundation of the adjacent extension is made with a deformation gap of 6-12 mm between it and the foundation of the house, filled with roofing felt, fiberglass and other insulators, but in this case this is not optimal. A gap of 30 mm between the adjacent walls of the house and the extension is caulked with pre-compressed sealing tape (PSUL) and covered along the outside contour decorative overlays. It seems to be cheap and cheerful, especially if the extension is structurally lightweight (see below), but there are no eternal sealants. In conditions middle zone RF after 10-12 years, dampness begins to accumulate in the gap between the adjacent walls, and it becomes the source of destruction of the entire house. Therefore, builders specializing in extensions give a 5-year guarantee for adjacent ones, as they say, right away. Please keep this in mind if you order a turnkey extension.

Note: PSUL must be used immediately, because once unpacked, it begins to swell irreversibly.

About remote extensions

A remote extension completely eliminates the specific organizational and technical difficulties of the extension, because According to all laws and rules, it is a separate building. The foundation of a remote extension can be anything, incl. non-recessed insulated, for example. , and the structure on it can be prefabricated of any type. The remote extension is connected to the house by a covered, insulated gallery on a columnar base or hanging on beams. Both are not considered a mechanical connection to the house.

A remote extension is especially beneficial if you need to add a kitchen. Increased heat loss from the premises in this case is insignificant, but the living rooms are reliably insulated from kitchen fumes and high humidity. And most importantly, in private housing with a kitchen they often block the furnace/boiler room or simply install/hang a heating boiler in the kitchen. Its removal from residential premises greatly reduces possible dangers from autonomous heating; the likelihood of burning when burning solid fuel is practically reduced to nothing. In addition, it facilitates the location of residential buildings and structures on the site local sewerage according to sanitary standards.

Note: in the West and in countries gravitating towards it, many are now keen on remote extensions with panoramic glazing, even if there is plenty of space in the old house, see fig.:

By default, a toilet, bathroom, and a married bedroom are transferred to such an aquarium; sometimes even a children's room. Hanging curtains is considered a disregard for Euro-liberal values ​​and a tendency towards totalitarianism, extremism, terrorism, separatism, etc. In psychiatry, the way of thinking that gives rise to this tendency is called exhibitionism and is a symptom of a lush bouquet of various mental disorders.

Foundations

The influence of the extension on the main structure is most affected through the foundation, so special attention should be paid to its selection and placement in the ground. For adjacent extensions or wood or foam blocks optimal choice or . Adjacent extensions are not built of brick or monolithic. Both options will avoid direct contact of the base of the extension with the foundation of the house and will greatly reduce the likelihood of moisture accumulation in the gap between the walls. The foundation grillage is made of timber from 200x200 for wooden buildings or welded steel from an I-beam or channel with an upper flange not narrower than the thickness of the wall.

A columnar foundation for an extension is suitable on non-heaving or slightly heaving, non-subsidence and not overly watered normally bearing soils. On all other soils, you need to choose a foundation on screw piles, and God forbid you think about driven, pressed and eroded piles - in this case, a violation of the stability of the main structure is guaranteed! Standard installation spacing of pillars/piles is 1.2-1.7 m; The foundation design is also standard.

Under the "capital"

In most cases, a massive residential extension requires a strip foundation of normal depth (at least 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth), securely connected to the base of the building. And again, God forbid you have to match the foundations as shown on the left in the figure! This is only permissible on non-freezing, dense, non-subsidence soils!

In the conditions of the Russian Federation, the pairing of the foundations of the house and the extension must be done with a tooth and anchor ties (in the center in the figure); The capacity of the anti-heave cushion under the foundation of the extension is 15 cm of gravel and 15 cm of sand. The trench for the foundation needs a trapezoidal profile with anti-heaving backing with a sand-gravel mixture, as for a brick foundation for a half-timbered structure extension (see below). The tooth is reinforced in 2 levels steel reinforcement 14-16 mm.

The anchors connecting the foundations are made from the same reinforcement. The installation step is 30-40 cm horizontally and vertically. The placement of anchors in both foundations is 25-30 cm. In the old foundation, holes are drilled for the anchors, into which the anchors are walled up. The anchors are connected to the reinforcement frame of the foundation of the extension by tying with wire, in no case by welding! The foundation must be poured in such a way that before the outside temperature drops to +15 degrees and below, it gains at least 75% strength.

The foundation of the extension with the tooth is maintained until construction continues for 2 years. In the first year, immediately after the tape gains strength, its deviation from horizontality is measured in mm/m. After a year, the measurements are repeated. The foundation is stable - we finally level it to the horizon and build further. No, we wait another year. It hasn’t “settled down” in 4 years - alas, there was a mistake with the geology, the soil is too fluid. It is urgent to take measures to strengthen it before the old house collapses.

On non-heaving, well-bearing soils, it is permissible to build an adjacent or massive residential extension made of foam/gas blocks on a shallow strip foundation (MSLF) or on a non-buried strip with the initial excess of the extension foundation. To calculate the required excess of the new tape, you need to know the coefficients of soil subsidence at the construction site, the available sand and gravel of the foundation cushion under the weight of the tape. General reference books are not helpful in this case, because... subsidence coefficients for materials from different quarries may differ by a value too large for the foundation to be built on.

The small strip for the extension is first poured with a gap between it and the old foundation. At the ends of the tape reinforcement and anchors in the old foundation, elastic loops are bent (on the right in the figure) and welded. A year later, it is checked whether the foundation has stabilized (see above). If yes, the initial gap is filled, and after gaining strength with a concrete plug, you can build further.

Designs and materials

Here you need to know, firstly, that it is possible to build extensions from SIP only on non-subsidence, non-heaving soils of high bearing capacity. A structure made of SIP is a very rigid box. Settled faster than the old house, it will inevitably tear itself away from it.

Secondly, it is possible to make extensions from foam/gas blocks, but you will have to wait a year or two with the finishing, external and internal. This rule does not have a reverse effect: it is impossible to mechanically attach any residential extensions to foam concrete houses; You can only add adjacent ones. The fact is that the foam/aerated concrete in the extension will give many small, non-through cracks as it settles. They are not dangerous and will not reduce the strength of the structure, but they will have to be sealed before finishing. To prevent the foam/gas block structure from becoming saturated with moisture during curing, the extension box will need to be wrapped in film.

Third, in our time, brick is not a suitable material for an extension; Not suitable for self-building at all. A heavy, massive brick extension will certainly require strengthening the structure of the main house, unless it is an old merchant house with meter-long walls. In RuNet there are calculators for calculations brick extensions; an example is given in Fig. As you can see, in addition to strengthening the wall, which is already difficult, expensive and labor-intensive, we also need a load-bearing partition in a certain place so that the settling extension does not tear the house in half. And what if the partition is in the bedroom, or, worse, the kitchen or toilet?

Finally, the main structural material of the extension should not be stronger than that of the old house. Recommendations to build from the same material as the house are incorrect. If something goes wrong and the extension shrinks more than is permissible, it is better to disconnect it and let it be destroyed than to risk the main housing.

To the dacha

Extension to country house for the reasons stated above, it can be made as light as possible, the so-called. cantilever-support. Light circuit An extension of this type is shown in Fig. Its connection with the roof (see below) is absent, and the base is located far from the house, and there is nothing to be afraid of its influence on the foundation. At the same time, the supports take a significant part of the load from the consoles, so this extension can even be attached to the wall of a frame house (any others are unacceptable) through backing boards from 150x40. The main thing is that the attachment points fall on the vertical ribs of the frame. If the location of the frame elements is known, then it is possible and even better to fasten through the load-bearing (working) sheathing; It is enough to remove the exterior finishing and insulation. Material of support pillars – timber from 150x50; the rest is 150x40 board. The permissible extension of the roof consoles is 2.5 m for a frame house, 3.5 m for a timber house and 4.5 m for a brick house.

A cantilever-supported extension to a house can be the basis for a garage, terrace (veranda without a floor), greenhouse, etc. With a cantilever-support, you can attach a veranda and even a “conditional living” (insulated) room. In this case, the floor is made completely floating on a columnar base, i.e. the frame made of timber on which the logs rest is not connected either to the house or to the extension; a gap along the contour of 20-30 mm is covered with a plinth. Thus, 3 independent bases are obtained: the foundation of the house, a “chessboard” of columns for the floor, and pillars (or tape) under the console supports.

Half-timbered

Many people make light extensions to houses with frames due to the elasticity of this structure and its negligible effect on the main structure. However, if the extension affects the house, then it also affects it. The elastic limit of frame structures with working cladding is not unlimited and drops sharply with increasing removal of the load-bearing elements of the frame extension. While it is possible to attach a porch to a house without any problems, the probability of destruction due to settlement of an extension more than 3 m wide is high.

The best option wooden extension Any house will have a half-timbered roof. The half-timbered technology was originally an extension technology: it was born in medieval cities, constrained by defensive walls. There, each house was an extension to the neighboring ones. The difference between half-timbered technology and frame technology is that there is no working cladding; all the loads are taken by the timber frame. The cladding, external and internal, can be of any kind.

An extension to a half-timbered wooden house made of timber from 200x200 on a strip foundation with a tooth (top left in the figure) practically does not additionally load the main structure. Its complete connection with the house, cladding and final finishing are carried out a year or two after the construction of the frame using wood screws with a diameter of 8-12 mm in increments of 450-600 mm. Sealing along the mating contour - PSUL. A half-timbered extension to a stone house can be 2-storey without jibs under panoramic glazing, top right. Fastening to the main structure - M8-M10 bolts in collet anchors with a pitch of 4 rows of masonry; placing anchors in the wall – 300 mm. The seal is the same.

Half-timbered technology is especially good if you need to add a bathroom or bathhouse to your house: many budget developers initially make do with a miniature combined bathroom or corner shower in the kitchen. Well, if your soul is yearning to soak in a bath or steam to your heart’s content, then timber impregnated with a water repellent in addition to biocide and fire retardant is on sale. A simple unimpregnated timber can be made moisture resistant by impregnating it with mining or, twice, with a water-polymer emulsion. In this case, sheathing and insulation are made from any suitable materials, without worrying about its structural strength.

An example of the design of a half-timbered frame for an extension to a house is given at the bottom left in Fig. There in the center and on the right are the structures of the key components of the 2-story half-timbered structure. An unpleasant feature of the half-timbered technology for fans of “quick construction” is that it is impossible to connect frame elements with steel fasteners, as in a frame house with working cladding. At the crossroads, the beams cut into half the tree, and at the ends they are connected into a spike, a paw or a swallow's tail. Each connection is secured with a dowel - a through round pin made of hard, fine-grained wood with a diameter of approx. 30 mm.

Foundations for half-timbered buildings

Half-timbered buildings also require a special foundation: columnar and pile structures accept loads too unevenly for half-timbered structures, and the concrete strip is too rigid for it. The foundation for a half-timbered extension is laid with brick or rubble (see figure on the right). The latter is better: well-annealed red brick in moist, acidic or alkaline soil begins to deteriorate within 40-50 years, although in neutral, not over-moistened soil it lasts for centuries; dry-molded silicate or face bricks are generally unsuitable for underground structures. The shelf life of a rubble foundation made of granite, diorite, gabbro and other dense heavy rocks is practically unlimited.

M12-M16 anchor bolts are walled into the foundation for the half-timbered structure to fasten a grillage made of timber from 200x200. The pitch of foundation anchors is 400-600 mm. Waterproofing the grillage - 2-4 layers of roofing material or glass rubite. The lower frame of the actual half-timbered frame is attached to the grillage with dowels (or wood screws). After its installation, the frame is assembled on the wall of the house, and then the remaining elements are mounted. Thus, it is possible Maintenance a half-timbered frame on an excessively sagging foundation by knocking out wedges, etc. This is a unique opportunity of the half-timbered technology, although it is still necessary to maintain the foundation for a year before continuing construction.

Half-timbered buildings and shields

The half-timbered technology is labor-intensive and requires a lot of expensive material. If a one-story extension to a house made of timber is proposed, incl. warm living room, then it is possible to get by with a simplified frame-panel technology, born at the same time. In this case, the timber frame is built from upper and lower frames with corner posts; the spans are filled with shields on a plank frame, which are attached to the main frame with wood screws, and fastened together with steel plates from 80x40x4.

The design of the shield frame of a combined frame extension made of boards from 120x40 is shown in Fig. on right. The height of the sections can be increased to 900-100 mm in accordance with the height of the ceiling; if it is higher than 3 m, the number of sections increases. Window and door sections are made without miters; they should not be adjacent to each other and should not be close to the corners, i.e. on both sides of the frame with the opening there should be frames with jibs. If interior lining If the sheet is strong enough, rigid and elastic (plywood from 16 mm, OSB), then you can do without internal jibs (shown by filling in the figure).

Roof connection

The own weight and climatic loads on the roof tend to flatten it and distribute it to the sides, for which purpose transverse connections are provided in the roof trusses - crossbars. The asymmetry of vertical loads caused by the presence of an extension on the side disrupts the entire operation of the roof and can lead to its failure. The common scheme in RuNet for connecting the roofs of a house and an extension (top left in the figure) not only requires excess material, but also does not eliminate the asymmetry of the load on the old roof. Moreover, excess wind loads are transferred to the most vulnerable part existing roof- her ridge knot. It is also unacceptable to distort the old rafter structure (above right) for the sake of interfacing with the extension, even if the house has a Siberian attic that strengthens the roof.

The correct design for connecting the roofs of the house and the side extension is shown at the bottom left in Fig. The highlight here is the beveled snow supports: from additional load of any kind they seem to push the wings old roof inward, preventing them from spreading. Further, thanks to the rigidity of the resulting force triangles (filled in red), a significant part of the additional loads is transferred to the mauerlat (rafter) of the extension, which can be calculated in advance for them, and the excess loads on the mauerlat of the old roof do not exceed the permissible value.

Note: if the extension is made of foam/aerated concrete, which does not hold the mortgages well, then the mauerlat of the extension must be made according to all the rules for building houses made of foam concrete, and the anchors of the mauerlat must be laid in the wall for 3-4 rows of masonry.

About roofing

When constructing a side extension to the house, the old roof deck needs to be dismantled (bottom right in the figure above) and the roof re-roofed. Match the roofs of the house and the extension as shown in Fig. right, you can't. Golden Rule roofing work: the overlying decking elements must overlap the underlying ones to prevent water from flowing in. And do it as shown there - no matter how wise you are with the seal, valleys, canopies, gutters, the roof will leak.

No roofing work

Much simplify complex and responsible roofing or you can get rid of them altogether if you build an extension from the pediment (on the left in the figure). A front extension often better matches the layout and architecture of the house, and on a narrow plot this is often the only option.

However, when building an extension from the front, another problem arises: access to it, for which you will have to make an opening in the load-bearing wall. IN frame houses This is completely unacceptable. For a timber frame, a calculation is needed: will the house move apart? In any case, at least 3-4 lower crowns must be left intact in the wall, counting from the grillage; perhaps the passage to the annex will be in the threshold. In a frame-panel wall, you can choose to fill any of the panels without touching the frame frame, as long as there are panels with jibs on both sides. A diagram of a doorway in a solid brick wall is shown on the right in Fig. It is generally carried out as follows. order:

1. On both sides of the wall, grooves are cut for the steel reinforcement box;
2. the embedded parts of the front and rear parts of the box are installed in place and welded into frames;
3. the opening is selected gradually and alternately on both sides of the wall, carefully, without strong beating or pressure;
4. Anchor rods under transverse ties are walled into the ends of the opening;
5. The ties are welded to the anchors and frames of the boxes.

Since doorways in stone load-bearing walls are a responsible matter, watch another video on how to make an opening in a brick wall:

Video: opening in a brick wall to access the extension

and in no way possible:

Last note: In load-bearing walls made of foam/aerated concrete, it is impossible to make an opening for passage into the attached residential extension in addition to the original design ones. If there is no significant additional load on the wall (exit to the outside, into a non-residential or residential adjacent extension), upper horizontal mortgages 1.75-1.9 m long are needed. Alas.

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An excellent way to increase space is to add an extension to a wooden house. Projects of such structures amaze with their diversity and scale. After choosing a suitable project, you need to prepare special materials. An additional extension will be useful when creating a kitchen area or a luxurious terrace. You can build any room yourself, but you need to choose the right type of construction.

Such structures are often built from logs, beams, foam blocks, and also bricks. Frame technologies are often used.

Expert's point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Ask a Question

“The option under a common roof is considered more convenient and profitable. When using superstructures, it is worth calculating the strength of the foundation.”

Related article:

Extension to a frame house: design and installation features

When making an extension to a house from a frame, no significant costs will be required. This a budget option. The construction is made on a frame base, which consists of beams or slats made of metal. After installing the frame structure, the walls are faced on both sides. In this case, OSB or chipboard boards are used. Placed between the slabs heat insulating material. This can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

In terms of thermal insulation properties, frame structures are not inferior to more solid stone or brick buildings.

Construction works are carried out in several stages:

Expert's point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

Ask a Question

"For frame structure a foundation is required. You can use a tape structure with waterproofing.”

Extension to a house made of foam blocks: photos of interesting projects

You can build an extension to the house from foam blocks.

This design is in demand due to the following features:

• The material has an affordable price.
• To install the structure, it is not necessary to install a complex and expensive foundation.
• The elements retain heat well. This is possible due to the porous structure and low density.
• Foam blocks are produced in overall dimensions, which affects the speed of construction.

Foam block structures require a special foundation. It can be a strip or monolithic base. High-quality waterproofing must be used. Construction work begins from one selected corner. After installing two rows. This is necessary to ensure better adhesion of the elements.

Extension to a wooden house made of timber: installation nuances and style features

A beautiful and high-quality extension to a wooden house can be made from timber. Individual projects and photos can be found on the Internet.

The material has the following features:

• The production of timber is carried out using factory technologies.
• The surface is processed special composition, which protects against fungi and decay processes.
• Naturalness and high environmental friendliness are considered important advantages of the material.

The extension must be connected to an already existing building. Usually the same foundation is made for the building as for the main building.

A separate foundation and a special wall should be created for the living space. The voids and gaps between the two walls are filled with polyurethane foam. This will prevent damage to the wall of the building during shrinkage new extension.

More economical option The foundation is piled. The walls are erected from profiled timber. After installing the first row, the surface of the wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. Then logs are mounted on it. Voids and cracks are filled with special heat-insulating material.

Each row is secured with wooden dowels. The installation of corner areas requires special attention. To do this, logs with a protrusion and groove are used for a stronger grip.

For your information! Reinforcement is used to connect the two foundations.

Before starting construction, you should take into account some of the nuances of installing an additional structure to the main structure. The length of the new structure should be in harmony with the length of the wall of the main construction site. The width of the additional structure can be any.

The extension does not have to be adjacent to the wall where the entrance to the house is located. Exit to a spacious veranda or kitchen area maybe from the living room. If in additional design If a bathroom is planned, then the exit can be from or. A suitable location for the structure is the front or end part of the house. The choice and amount of material depends on the type of future structure.

Article

Most people buy or build a house based on what they can afford at that time. Owners are forced to add an extension to the house based on increased needs or desires. The question arises of how to make an additional extension so that it turns out inexpensively, correctly and reliably. Again, in order to save money, many people prefer to build it with their own hands.

Project selection

Construction technology will depend to a large extent on what task you set for yourself when expanding.

For example, if there is a project and plans to make an extra room, then the new building should be warm, strong, and no different in characteristics from the main building.

If the project involves moving, for example, a kitchen into an extension, then all necessary communications must be provided in advance. And, of course, in both cases you need to choose a material for the walls so that it is strong and reliable - for example, it could be a structure made of bricks or other solid material.

If the goal is to build a summer terrace or porch with your own hands, unheated veranda, then it is important to provide waterproofing of the foundation, and the walls and ceiling can be built from lightweight materials. In any case there is general requirement: the thicker and heavier the walls, the stronger and thicker the foundation should be. Accordingly, the higher the costs.

As for the appearance and design of the extension, you can choose quite a lot for a brick house harmonious options additions - it can be a traditional rectangular shape, a square shape, a semicircle. Very interesting option a bay window, it will give the house the elements of a real rich mansion, even if the house itself is not very impressive in size. We will discuss the technology of constructing a bay window-style extension in more detail below.

Material selection

The joints between two parts of the building should be well insulated from drafts

The best material for a new extension to a house will be the one from which the house was built. Therefore, if the house is made of brick, then it needs to be adjusted in the same way. However, in practice, people often look for simple and cheap, while warm materials, which do not require deep foundations and high costs. Design standards allow the combination of brick with extensions made of timber, foam blocks and other materials.

What is important to know about the adjoining of one part to another

It is important to know that a brick house requires special conditions for the annexation of new buildings in any case. Some of these special construction characteristics include the following:

House with bay window

If the main building is brick, then it is recommended to make brick bay window- a beautiful and practical result will be guaranteed. It’s not so easy to build a bay window with your own hands, but nevertheless, it’s worth trying. After the project has been prepared and calculated, the foundation is prepared.

In this case, the foundation is poured the same as that of the main building, and the frame must be connected to the frame of the house.

The bay window is built on a traditional foundation like this:

1. Along the perimeter of the future foundation, dig a trench with a depth equal to the depth of the old foundation and a width of 40 cm.
2. Sprinkle a layer of sand at the bottom of the trench, and then lay a layer of gravel or crushed stone. To fill with water.
3. Install the formwork and fill it with a concrete mixture prepared at the rate of 2 parts gravel or crushed stone, one part sand and cement and 0.7 parts water. Wait until the concrete hardens completely. The new one is connected to the main foundation by reinforcement and concreting with an expansion joint.

Wall masonry:

1. WITH outside put the best, the most quality brick. If the difference between the bricks is more than 3 mm, the masonry will not be perfectly level.
2. Inside the walls are laid with gas silicate blocks.
3. Mineral wool is usually chosen as insulation.
4. The bay window is connected to the wall monolithically, using reinforcing rods. To do this, holes are drilled into two-thirds of the bricks in the brick wall of the house, into which metal reinforcement pins are inserted and walled up. This should be done after a couple of rows of masonry. After laying, these rods are inserted into the seams. If they are thicker than the seams, then cuts are made in the bricks in the right place.

You can see how to beautifully make a bay window with bricks in the video:

Roof structure

For the installation of a ceiling:

• beams are placed on top of the bricks - beams every 70 cm. They can be walled up in the upper brick belt, if wrapped in sheets of roofing felt to protect from moisture;
• hem plywood sheets or boards;
• lay a layer of insulation;
• sew the sheathing;
• cover the roof with metal profiles, tiles and other materials.

Extension to brick houses made of timber

The timber option is a good project because:

• economical;
• visually attractive (extensions to a house made of timber look harmonious and beautiful);
• does not cause deformation of walls and kinks during shrinkage of soil under wooden frame in the place where the main and new structures are attached.

A wooden extension made of timber is installed on a foundation made in the usual way. You can make it with your own hands using the above tape method.

Depending on the type of foundation, it is done frame perimeter floor bases For an extension to a house made of timber, a project with a foundation on piles or pillars is suitable. The walls are erected on a timber frame, with rafters, sheathing and a roof installed on top.

Most important point when building an extension from timber and other relatively light materials, it is necessary to take into account the heaving of the soil (their seasonal movement), and, therefore, the deformation of the walls. And, of course, the fact that a lighter building will move differently than an older and heavier one on the main foundation.

Therefore, to avoid problems in the future, be sure to remember that:

• both foundations must be at the same depth;
• it is impossible to make a blind binding due to different shrinkages;
• be sure to make an expansion joint.

The walls are erected on a timber frame, with rafters, sheathing and a roof installed on top.

Everything else depends on how you handle the work with your own hands, what design and idea you put into your extended home.

Sooner or later, every homeowner begins to think about expanding their living space. And here many questions arise, the main one of which is how to do this? Nowadays, the range of materials on the construction markets is quite impressive, which means that there are plenty of options for how to increase housing. Today we will look at some of them. Let's find out what an extension can be like (projects and photo examples will help with this), and also try to understand how complex such construction can be. It wouldn’t hurt to learn how to do this kind of work yourself.

You can find various projects for home extensions on the Internet. And before starting such construction it is worth familiarizing yourself with them. This will allow you to adopt any solutions and then add your own. Only then can you get a unique structure that will not only be, but will also increase your living space.

Many may say that such construction is too labor-intensive and practically impossible to do with your own hands, but this is a misconception. With the right approach and studying all the nuances, this is not so difficult, although you will have to face some difficulties. But, as they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands do. But as a reward, you can get not only a self-made extension to a wooden house, but also satisfaction from the work done. In addition, the money saved on paying specialists will not be superfluous.

Let's consider various options extensions in general terms, as well as examples of similar work done with their own hands by ordinary home craftsmen without any experience.

Solutions for adding a veranda to a wooden house in photo examples

This type of construction is quite relevant for summer residents who like to sit in the evenings over a cup of tea with family or friends. After all, it’s much more pleasant to communicate in the fresh air than in indoors. In addition, it is possible that the veranda will be designed in such a way that it is possible to install. This will protect it from snow, and will also add warmth to the house itself.

Another advantage of such a building is that you can spend it there in the winter. In this case, it can even be used as an additional room. But this is more suitable not for summer residents, but for owners in the private residential sector who live in the premises for a whole year.

The material for such buildings is most often wood. Sometimes, if there is such a possibility, they are done on those sides that are not adjacent to the house. We invite you to look at a few photos of wooden verandas attached to the house:

Looking at these photos of wooden verandas attached to the house, it seems that they were built by professionals, but this is not so. Today we will definitely look at how you can do this with your own hands.

Options for terraces attached to the house - how they differ from a veranda

We should start with the fact that many people confuse. But the differences here are fundamental. The fact is that the veranda is always attached to the house, but the terrace opposite is located and is not adjacent to the house. In addition, terraces are often without roofs and walls. At their core, they represent open . Hence the consequence - they are often built from more durable material that can withstand precipitation.

Of course, there are options for adding terraces to wooden ones, but this is rather the exception. Moreover, if we go back just a few decades ago, then at that time a terrace was considered to be an open (without roof) area of ​​natural or artificial origin.

Now many people confuse these two concepts, calling verandas adjacent to the house terraces on stilts, but still, historically this is not true. Although time does not stand still, a person tries to make his life more comfortable. This is probably why they called the area with a roof adjacent to the house a terrace. After all, it stands on stilts, while the veranda must have a foundation.

Here are some examples of terraces in photo illustrations:

How to attach a garage to a house and why it is needed

An extension to the house is a very good solution. Indeed, in this case, in the cold season there will be no need to go out into the cold to reach it. However, there are pitfalls here too. The garage needs an ideal one that will not allow carbon monoxide to enter the home. And no one doubts that the car will start in the garage for sure. Here are some photos of garages attached to the house:

Adding a garage to your home is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. You just need to understand how capital it will be. Will a foundation be needed, what will the floor and walls be like? The most common material for such buildings is foam block. But many, as a garage attached to the house, use several racks made of timber, on which it rests. Thus, although the car is not protected from snow and rain in the wind, the roof will protect it from the sun.

Examples of residential extensions to a wooden house

An extension to a wooden house as a living space or - this is perhaps the most common type of all listed. This is not surprising, because not everyone has the opportunity to buy land and build a new, large and spacious one. And the construction of an additional room is possible even on a relatively small area. But here the situation is a little more complicated than with the construction of a veranda or carport. Do not forget that the building must not only be capital, but also be sufficient so that one can live in it comfortably.

Important! When constructing such an extension, it is necessary to carefully study the soil, calculate a foundation that can support the weight of the structure, and also draw up a detailed project. Don't forget what it is permanent structure must be registered with the cadastral chamber. Otherwise, you can not only lose money on fines, but also receive a notice of demolition of an illegal building.

Still, extensions to a country house are a good solution. After all, no one bothers you to collect all the necessary papers on time. And additional living space never bothered anyone. Moreover, it will not require too much money.

Extension to a wooden house: projects, materials and photos of possible layouts

Although it is difficult to make an extension to the house with your own hands, it is quite possible. But this will require some knowledge. The main thing that needs to be decided before undertaking such work is what material the structure will be made of. The following materials can be used:

• Boards on a timber frame. Such a building requires a minimal foundation;
• Rounded timber or logs– such a building also does not require too strong a foundation. The fact is that its lower crown will already play the role of support. In addition, such a structure will be warmer and more durable, but at the same time more expensive;
• . This is where you will need a very strong foundation that can support the weight of the building. Otherwise, the extension will begin to collapse in a year or two, and may not last even 3 months. It all depends on the soil;
• - it also requires a strong base, perhaps even stronger than for a foam block. As a result, such extensions are very expensive.

Important! Regardless of what material it is decided to build a residential extension at the dacha, it must be firmly fixed to the house itself. Otherwise, the building will not have the required strength. In this case, there is a risk of collapse, and this is already life-threatening.

Let's try to understand each of these materials.

Extension to a frame house: nuances of construction, design and photo examples

An extension to the house is convenient because it requires the least cost and is easy to do with your own hands. Moreover, there is no need to work with a large number of people - two people are enough. But a foundation is still needed.

It is also convenient to make a frame extension to the house because there is no need to hire a designer who would calculate everything. This is another budget saving item. Of course, the extension will need to be insulated very well, but with the huge assortment on the shelves these days, this will be quite easy to do.

The most difficult stage in such construction will be the installation of the foundation. Well, assembling the frame, fixing it to the wall of the house and sheathing it is much easier. Today there are more simple ways. There is special material on sale. These are oriented strand boards. Moreover, with their help, the so-called one is manufactured at the factory, two sides of which are made of OSB, and between them a layer of foam plastic. This material is quite durable and strong, in addition, it has another important advantage- This is an excellent insulation material. Thus, the home craftsman can only assemble a durable frame and cover it with similar material.

External finishing is also important in such cases, because the durability of the frame extension to a wooden house largely depends on it. You can read about similar work in our other articles. And now we invite our dear reader to look at several photo examples of similar extensions made by home craftsmen:

Extension to a house made of timber - some installation nuances

When planning an extension, you should understand that both its foundation and service life depend on how it is designed. After all, no one will start construction with the expectation that in a couple of years the living room will need to be demolished. Also, don’t think that you don’t have to “bother” with the design of such buildings. This is not a barn or closet, which means everything should be taken care of in advance.

Let's start with the fact that the best option (of course with low weight) would be a pile-screw. This will be a cheaper and less labor-intensive choice. Yes, and you can drive piles into the ground to the required depth yourself using special equipment or even manually. The main task here is to calculate the load on each pile to select their number and diameter.

Important information! When installing a pile-screw foundation, it should be understood that the supports must pass under each wall. If there is a partition in the room, then they are also required under it.

You should also pay attention to lower crown. It needs to be made from something more durable. Ideally, it will be made of logs. You should not think that to install a timber extension to a log house you only need 3 walls - this is a misconception. 4 walls are also being built, because a joint one is necessary here. Special attention it makes sense to pay attention to the fastening between common walls. It depends on this whether cracks will appear in this place over time.

Here are some photo examples of such solutions:

Extension to a house made of foam blocks - advantages and disadvantages

This is probably the most common option. After all, foam block has a relatively low cost, can provide fairly good insulation (compared to brick), and the installation speed is considerable. But when compared with timber, foam block has a big drawback - it requires a fairly strong foundation. And you can’t get by with pile-screws.

A foundation for a foam block extension to a wooden house is required. The best option there will be a grillage pile foundation. This means that the cost of the foundation automatically increases significantly.

Installation of extensions to houses made of gas silicate blocks is also quite common. But some home craftsmen do not understand the difference between them and foam blocks. It's quite simple. a little heavier and more expensive than foam concrete, but at the same time its strength is much higher. In addition, it does not require coupling from concrete mortar (special glue is used). As a result, there are virtually no seams, which contributes to greater thermal insulation, and therefore lower heating costs in the future.

Important! Regardless of what building material is chosen, you should consider the communication systems in the future living room. After all, if this is not done, you will have to drill holes for heating and trench walls for electrical wiring. Without this, there can be no talk of any kind of living, much less a comfortable one.

We offer our dear reader several examples of such buildings:

Extension to a brick house - differences from previous options

The main difference here is that there is no fourth wall required. This means that three general ones are quite enough. The foundation can be either strip or columnar. And you can choose any material for construction - it all depends on the wishes and capabilities of the home craftsman.

Grip with load-bearing wall at home happens with the help. When building an extension to a house made of brick or concrete, a reinforcement coupler is also often used. Bearing wall drilled using a hammer drill, and the drill should be slightly smaller in diameter than the rod for a more rigid coupling. After this, a piece of reinforcement (it should not be smooth) is driven halfway into the drilled hole, and the second part is laid into the joint of foam blocks or bricks.

Important information! You should not start construction if the house is quite old. This is irrational, because the brick softens over time, which will have a bad effect on the adhesion to the new building. In addition, drilling the wall, as well as new construction, places additional stress on it.

Perhaps the dear reader will be interested in looking at some solutions of home craftsmen:

Construction of a foundation for an extension to a house and its types

The foundation is the foundation that supports the entire structure. This means that you should treat its design with great responsibility. Most simple solution with a small weight of the building there will be a pile-screw foundation. To do this, piles are screwed into the ground at a certain distance from each other, which will bear the main load.

If the building is heavier, you will have to pour a strip foundation. In this case, piles will also not hurt, they will provide additional strength. But the strongest of all types of foundations can be called a pile-grillage foundation. To install it, you need to dig a trench around the perimeter of the future walls. Afterwards, screw piles are driven along this trench or holes are drilled into which the reinforcement cage is lowered and filled with concrete. This is done in such a way that their upper edge is slightly above ground level. AND the last stage Formwork is installed and concrete is poured. More details about how to make a foundation for an extension to a house or for a bathhouse are described in one of our articles.

Before pouring the foundation for an extension to the house, you should decide whether the ready-made mortar will be ordered and delivered ready-made or made independently. In the latter case, accurate calculations of the components for the required strength are necessary.

How to make a roof for an extension

Most simple option there will be a device pitched roof for an extension to the house. This option is easy to implement and requires the least cost. However, such work also has its own nuances. If we compare it with gable roofs, then simpler ones do not retain heat so well.

When constructing a veranda, the three-slope option is often used for an extension to a house, but such work is quite complicated. If you have some skills and knowledge of carpentry, then a home craftsman will be quite capable of it.

Important! The roof should be designed so that snow can easily roll off it, but at the same time, safety should not be forgotten. After all, an accumulated snowdrift can fall on a person. That is why they try to make the slope steeper. In this case, the accumulation of snow will be small, and its removal will not be dangerous.

If the home craftsman is not sure that he knows how to make a roof on an extension to a house and can do it, it is better to turn to specialists for help.

Instructions for installing a house extension with your own hands

Let's try to explain in general terms all the stages of constructing a veranda on a site adjacent to the house. We will discuss more detailed instructions for each type of building in the following reviews. Here's how to add an extension to your house:

Illustration	Actions Performed
	First of all, we start with the foundation. In our case, this is a well. Lowered into it metal pipe which is filled with concrete. Depth is about 1.7 m.
	The distance between the piles needs to be calculated. In our case, the weight of the veranda will be quite small, and therefore the distance can be made larger.
	We assemble a frame of metal beams onto the piles, which will play the role of the first crown, taking on the main load.
	The channels are welded together. In this case, the seam must be very strong.
	We also took care of communications. The water drain from the sink in the house ended up in this exact spot. Well, let's deal with this too.
	The holes in the channel are necessary for fastening the timber on which the entire structure will be built.
	We lay the timber around the perimeter and fasten it. You can begin building the main supports and roof.
	Having assembled the main frame from timber, we strengthen it with transverse beams. In their role we have, 50 mm thick.
	We place the boards supporting the roof in pairs and tighten them together.
	It should look something like this. It should be noted that the boards that support the roof also give strength to the frame. They are secured to the main beams using tie rods.
	The roof can be covered with corrugated sheeting. It is quite resistant to any weather conditions.
	The diagonal board plays a rather important role - it prevents the building from tilting due to load-bearing beam frame. In our case, ordinary railings were made, but it is fashionable to sheathe or deglaze the building.
	Here the diagonals are decorative, and therefore made of thinner boards.

In general terms, the answer to the question of how to add an extension to a house looks like this.

The cost of specialist services for such construction

It is unlikely that you will be able to build an extension to your house inexpensively if you turn to specialists. But for general information, it wouldn’t hurt to consider the prices for such services using the example of various verandas:

Types of verandas	Cost of work, rub. for 1m 2
Open extension	from 8 000
Frame extension with 50mm insulation	from 9 000
Frame extension with 100mm insulation	from 10 500
Frame extension with 150mm insulation	from 11 500
Extension made of profiled timber 90x140mm	from 10 500
Extension made of profiled timber 140x140mm	from 12 500

Photos of verandas and terraces attached to the house: the work of professionals and not only

For those who still doubt that without special knowledge and skills you can do quite a lot beautiful extension to the house - photo examples of verandas and terraces made by ordinary home craftsmen. Perhaps the dear reader will find some solutions for his work. If not, then you can just admire it. It's really beautiful.

Surely many people liked the photos of verandas attached to the house with their own hands.

Finally

It is unlikely that anyone can refuse an additional room attached to the house. But it’s one thing when this work was done by strangers, and completely different if everything was done with your own hands. Moreover, as it turned out, although this is difficult, it is quite doable. Is it then worth paying money to “someone else’s uncle”? And it’s not a fact that the construction will turn out to be of high quality and beautiful (there are plenty of hacks these days). The veranda described in the step-by-step instructions, including painting, took about 10 days. This means that in a maximum of 15-20 you can make it completely perfect. Experts promise to do all the work in 30-60. It's worth thinking...

We hope that the information we presented today was useful to the reader. All questions (if you still have them) can be asked in the discussions for the article. Write, share your experience, because it may help someone.

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