Potbelly stove: device, application, homemade and factory-made varieties, drawings. Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - main types, drawings and connection diagrams (100 photos) Do-it-yourself potbelly stove drawings

For most people, the word “garage” is simply associated with a box for storing a car. However, there is a fairly large category of car owners for whom the garage is truly a “second home.” They are ready to spend all their free time there - fortunately, there will probably always be work here. In addition, garages have rightly acquired a strong reputation as a kind of “men’s club”, where the uninitiated, especially women, are not recommended to enter.

But it’s just that winter is trying to make adjustments to the active life of the garage - it’s extremely uncomfortable to work in a frozen room, and just chatting with friends is very uncomfortable. However, inventive craftsmen always find a way out - they install homemade stoves, constructing them themselves or using the advice of their comrades on how to make a potbelly stove for the garage.

Let us also make our contribution to this noble men's cause. The publication will discuss several ways to make a potbelly stove with your own hands.

Wood stoves made from scrap materials

The basic design of the simplest potbelly stove operating on solid fuel is very simple. In essence, it is a thick-walled metal container divided into two main compartments.

Firewood or other fuel is placed in the upper firebox, for which a loading door must be provided. The grate separates the firebox from the lower compartment, which is much smaller in size - the ash pan, which also often plays the role of a blower. It is also recommended to install an appropriate door through which the potbelly stove is regularly cleaned of ash. In addition, opening the door a certain width regulates the flow of air into the combustion chamber, and therefore the intensity of firewood combustion. A pipe is welded into the upper combustion chamber to drain combustion products into the chimney pipe.

Such a scheme gives scope for independent design simple potbelly stoves, and a wide variety of materials or used items and devices are used as blanks. There is probably no need to teach real masters how to cook a potbelly stove for a garage - it’s probably better to just give a number of interesting ideas that can be taken as a basis and supplemented with your own modifications, based on existing capabilities and preferences.

1. One of the most simple options– potbelly stove from an old one metal barrel.

The design shown in the figure is simplified to the extreme. The master manufacturer decided to abandon the two separate doors, combining them into one common one. A metal frame is welded on top of the barrel, allowing a metal sheet to be laid on it, which becomes a kind of “ hob“—you can use it, for example, to heat water.

Potbelly stove made from a barrel - a simple design, but with a lot of disadvantages

The advantage of such a design is, perhaps, only one - simplicity and speed of production, accessible to almost everyone. There are many more disadvantages.

Firstly, the barrel itself is not the best option for a potbelly stove - the walls are thin, their heat capacity is low, and they will not last long - they will quickly burn out.
Secondly, it is quite difficult to regulate the intensity of combustion.
Thirdly, the design is bulky and takes up a lot of space. You can, of course, think about a vertical arrangement, but the main problem is the thinness of the walls, thisAll equals not will eliminate
And, fourthly, such a potbelly stove is very unsafe in terms of fire safety.

It is better to have such a stove not in the garage, but somewhere on the street, for waste disposal.

2. Something similar, with the same basic disadvantages, but more compact, can be made from standard 40 liter can.

The scale of work, including welding, is even smaller here. In fact, only the legs (3) and the chimney pipe (2) are welded to the body (1). The door is already ready - it remains standard, only two rows of holes (4) are drilled in it for air access. A homemade grate made of a metal rod is placed inside, conditionally dividing the can into two compartments - and the mini-potbelly stove is ready.

3. Very wide opportunities in the manufacture of garage stoves are provided by the use of old gas cylinders. These vessels have thick, greasy walls that can be easily welded and themselves have a good heat capacity.

The main difficulty is to properly prepare the cylinder for further work, since even with the neck removed, vapors of explosive concentrations may remain in it. You may come across advice to fill the container with water overnight, and then, after draining the liquid, start cutting it. However, as practice shows, this does not provide a complete guarantee of work safety. In this light, the following approach seems optimal:

Bury the vertically placed cylinder in the ground so that it is securely fixed for cutting with a grinder.
Fill it with water right up to the neck and let it sit for 2-3 hours.
Draw a line marking the future around the circumference cutting.
Start cutting along the intended line until through hole. Water will begin to flow out. You must wait until its level drops to the cutting level, and then carefully continue working with the grinder and remove the cover completely.
Now you can drain the water and continue further work - the cylinder will no longer pose any danger.

There are a lot of options for potbelly stoves made from cylinders.

— It is often made horizontally. The cylinder capacity itself is, in fact, a finished combustion chamber. Dividing it into two with this orientation is irrational; it is better to make it from sheet metal and weld a box-shaped ash pan with its own door.

In this case, the grate can be rows of holes drilled in the cylinder body:

If you find a real cast iron of the appropriate size, then you can do it differently - cut a window in the wall of the cylinder that will ensure a tight fit of this part:

Another option is a window for installing a regular cast iron grate

You can make the firebox door yourself, using a fragment cut out for the firebox window, or you can weld a finished part, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

The structure is installed on welded pipes or leg corners at a height convenient for operation. A pipe for connection to the chimney is cut into the rear part.

— In order to save garage space, the cylinder can be placed vertically. In this case, it is divided into two chambers, welding brackets inside, onto which a homemade round grate made of a steel rod with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm is placed. Two two parts are made - the furnace and the blower.

The upper cut part can be drowned out - in this case a kind of cooking surface will appear. Another option is to purchase a cast iron cauldron of the required diameter, which will fit exactly as a “plug” and turn into a container for heating water or even for preparing a variety of dishes.

Original solution- instead of a top lid, a well-fitted cauldron is used

To allow combustion products to exit from the rear, a standard 90-degree outlet with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm is welded in, and then the vertical part of the chimney is connected to it.

Another craftsman offers an original design. As a finished part for the potbelly stove, he used an air tank-receiver from the brake system of a truck.

The master did not install ordinary doors. For the blower, a pipe is welded in, equipped with an adjustable damper that limits the flow of air. There is also no loading hatch on the side wall of the potbelly stove - it uses the principle of top loading of solid fuel. The top cover is hinged and equipped with an arched handle for convenience.

Inner space The cylinder on the firebox and the ash pan are separated by a homemade grate:

The design itself is simple to manufacture, but during operation it requires caution when adding firewood. In addition, the process of cleaning such a potbelly stove from accumulated ash will also not be entirely convenient.

Potbelly stoves similar in design can also be made from scraps thick-walled pipes diameter 300 – 500 mm.

4. Steel sheet- an excellent material, a potbelly stove can be made from it with your own hands, drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet.

As an example, you can give a drawing of an efficient stove on solid fuel, for which you will need sheet metal at least 4 mm thick (thinner walls will simply burn out quickly).

The drawing below shows all the dimensions, and it will be easy for any craftsman to cut in the parts necessary for the work. The main “highlight” of this design is the presence of two partitions (1). They create a kind of labyrinth for the release of combustion products, which do not immediately fly away into the chimney pipe, but provide maximum heat transfer from the potbelly stove.

Used as a grate metal plate(2) with rows of drilled holes with a diameter of 12 - 15 mm.

It is advisable to “dress” the potbelly stove in a metal casing, using sheet metal 2 mm thick for it. The plates (3) are cut to the dimensions of the side and rear walls and attached to the stove body either on threaded posts or using 50 mm long bushings (4).

Such an addition to the design of the potbelly stove will solve three problems at once:

The likelihood of accidental burns from the hot walls of the stove will be reduced.
The impact of hard infrared radiation from it, which is not always pleasant and necessary, will be reduced.
The resulting gap of 50 mm between the walls of the potbelly stove and the screens will create a powerful convection flow of heated air, thanks to which the garage will be heated quickly and evenly.

This is not all possible options garage potbelly stoves running on solid fuel. and detailed technology for their manufacture can be found on other pages of our portal dedicated to this issue.

Video: homemade stove for a garage made of sheet metal

Now, it probably makes sense to take a closer look at the design of the stove, which uses such common in garages, almost “waste” material, like used motor oil.

Find out and also explore step by step process understandable even for beginners, from our new article.

How to make a potbelly stove during mining

In fact, having a supply of firewood in the garage to fire a potbelly stove is not always convenient. But work is almost always available or it’s easy to find. This becomes especially true in large garage cooperatives, where they often install special containers for draining old oil, or in auto repair shops. So why not take advantage of the opportunity to use virtually free fuel for heating?

The design of such stoves and their layout can also be very diverse - from compact potbelly stoves designed for a small room to large and bulky devices with high heat transfer, capable of heating large areas.

However, the operating principle and basic elements They all have similar designs. They consist of two containers. The lower one is intended for filling with used oil - there it is superficially ignited and brought to a boil. Oil vapor rise up through a pipe with perforation for oxygen access. Here the process of afterburning the rising vapors begins, and their final oxidation and combustion takes place in the upper chamber, which is already connected to the chimney system.

If you look at a photograph of a working one, the temperature distribution in this heating device is very clearly visible from the intensity of the infrared radiation spots. The lower container with oil does not heat up much: the light spot is only a visible area of an open flame on the surface of the burning oil. The main afterburning begins in the upper third of the vertical perforated pipe, and the temperature reaches its peak values in the upper chamber - even its thick-walled body literally becomes red hot. It is this part of the stove that provides maximum heat exchange with the air in the room.

It is necessary to know the operating principle of such a stove. This will help you correctly determine the materials necessary for its manufacture - obviously, the most heat-resistant parts should be vertical pipe and the upper chamber.

Below are drawings of a do-it-yourself potbelly stove that works according to this scheme. Almost all dimensions are indicated in them, but still, in order to manufacture such a heating device, it is necessary to give a number of explanations by examining this process in more detail.

So, the work on making such a stove begins with the selection of materials. First of all, you need to have two pieces of pipe for the housings of the lower and upper chambers (items 2 and 8). The drawing indicates a diameter of 352 mm and 344 mm, but such a standard simply does not exist. It is easier to change the data a little and use pipe scraps of 355.6 × 6 or 325 × 6 mm.

The thickness of the steel sheets used for the manufacture of other parts is 4 mm, with the exception of the top cover (item 10) and partition (item 9), which require metal 6 mm thick.

For a vertical chamber, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of at least 4 - 5 mm is used. The same pipe will be required for the chimney pipe.

The process can begin with the manufacture of the lower chamber. To do this, a bottom cut around the circumference (item 1) is welded to a piece of 355 mm pipe with a height of 115 mm (item 2). All seams in the stove structure must be absolutely sealed.

The top of this container must be removable. This means that it is necessary to have a cylinder (item 3) that would fit tightly, almost without a gap, onto the lower one. It will not be possible to select it according to standard pipe sizes, which means you will have to make it yourself. A metal strip 60 mm wide is cut, which, by heating, gas burner and using clamps it is bent around the body of the lower container, and then welded with a vertical seam.

Now, using the resulting ring, you can accurately measure and cut out the cover for it (item 4). Two holes are immediately cut out on it - a central one, Ø 100 mm (item 4.1) for welding in a vertical perforated pipe, and one offset to the edge, Ø 60 mm - it will be used for refueling, ignition and adjusting the flow of primary air for oil combustion. A sliding cover (pos. 4.3) is being prepared, which will be secured in the hole (pos. 4.4) using a rivet or bolt (pos. 4.5).

Then the finished lid is welded to the ring.

A piece of pipe 100 × 5 mm with a length of 360 mm is marked for drilling holes in it. The top row should be 55 mm from the edge, the bottom row should be 20 mm. It is necessary to place 6 rows of 8 holes each evenly, so that they are staggered. The diameter of the holes is 9 mm. Both ends of the pipe are immediately chamfered for further welding during the assembly process.

The next step is to install the upper chamber. To begin, prepare two lids that have same sizes, but differ in metal thickness - the lower one (item 7) is 4 mm, and the upper one (item 10) is 6 mm. A hole Ø 100 mm is cut in each of them - as shown in the drawing. The diameter of these covers must, of course, exactly match the diameter of the thick-walled pipe used, from which a 100 mm high cylinder is cut (item 8).

It is immediately necessary to prepare a jumper (item 9), which will serve for more complete combustion of rising vapors, preventing them from quickly escaping into the chimney pipe, thereby creating an additional afterburning chamber.

Assembly begins by welding the upper, thicker cover to the cylinder.

After the sealed seam is completed, a jumper is installed with its maximum displacement towards the smoke outlet and welded on three sides.

Now you can weld the bottom cover. Its hole should be located strictly diametrically to the upper one.

Very accurately checking the square, achieving perpendicularity in all planes, install, grab, and then weld the perforated pipe to the bottom cover.

Then you can weld the chimney pipe (pos. 11) to the corresponding hole in the top cover.

Welded chimney pipe

From the opposite end of the perforated pipe, also maintaining perpendicularity, the lid of the lower fuel tank is welded.

This O-ring is then welded to the bottom of the "pan".

... and its fixation to the walls of the “pan”

In fact, all that remains is to weld the legs (item 6) and the stove can be considered ready. For greater stability of the stove, you can weld a stand (III in the diagram), which will add rigidity to the structure.

If desired, after cleaning, you can coat it with heat-resistant paint and safely use it.

You can refill it through the neck of the lower container, but this can be done safely only when the previously filled oil has completely burned out. To avoid such inconveniences during operation, it is recommended to supplement such a potbelly stove during testing with another “option” - a device for monitoring the oil level in the combustion chamber and safe refueling during operation.

To do this, you will have to make another open container, approximately the same height as the lower “pan”. The shape of this vessel is not particularly important. Both of these containers will be located on a common stand made of two parallel metal corners.

Both containers are welded to the guides - corners...

Holes of the same diameter are cut in the bottom of both containers and connected by a curved tube.

... and connected by a tube

So, we got two communicating vessels. According to the laws of physics, the liquid level in both is always the same. Thus, the owner of the stove always sees the level of waste oil remaining in the combustion chamber, and can, without any problems, replenish the fuel supply by pouring it into an open container.

True, in order to ensure greater safety, it is better to also provide a protective screen that will cover the open vessel from direct thermal radiation of the combustion chamber.

Now we can say with complete confidence that I’m ready. All that remains is to install it in place, connect it to the chimney pipe, fill it with fuel and carry out a test ignition.

For ignition, liquid for fireplaces (stoves) is usually used; about 100 ml is poured over the oil into the filler neck. A lit wick and a rag or paper soaked in the same liquid are lowered there. Surface combustion should begin, which in a few minutes will lead to boiling of the oil, the formation of vapors and the transition of the entire potbelly stove to its “normal” operating mode - this is usually accompanied by a characteristic hum.

In the model under consideration, ready-made parts were used - cuttings of thick-walled pipes. If they could not be found, then the very same stove can be made from a steel sheet, with box-shaped refueling and afterburning chambers, simply observing certain proportions of their volume in relation to the parallelepiped. The efficiency of the stove will not suffer at all from this. The thickness of the material used is the same, 4 and 6 mm.

Video: stove in operation with box-type chambers

Prices for popular models of welding machines

Welders

What should those garage owners do who already have a conventional stove that runs on solid fuel, but are interested in the possibility of using waste oil as fuel? It's okay - and there is an acceptable way out for them. You can make a special “attachment” that will make the potbelly stove universal.

This “attachment” can turn an ordinary potbelly stove into one that runs on waste oil.

In fact, this is the lower capacity of the stove for exhaust, also with a perforated pipe, but only bent at an angle of 90 degrees (by welding a standard outlet).

She's from a different angle

But instead of a final combustion chamber, an ordinary wood-burning stove is used, into which this curved pipe is connected using an adaptation device. For example, in a regular potbelly stove, the firebox door can be made removable and replaceable. One, regular one, will be installed using firewood, and the other, having the corresponding hole for pipe insertion –at using the “attachment” during practice.

As an "adapter" in in this case a round plug with a hole for the pipe entrance was used. The standard firebox door is simply folded to the side

Another option is to weld the pipe on the side, into the wall of the potbelly stove - then the stove will turn out to be universal. You just have to provide a damper so that when using firewood, the flame does not spread, and the ash from the firebox does not fall into the perforated pipe and container with oil.

Advantages and disadvantages of potbelly stoves during testing

To ensure that the operation of a potbelly stove during mining does not cause much trouble, you need to know its features, advantages and disadvantages, which must be taken into account when using it.

The advantages include the following qualities:

The stove is unpretentious and does not require intervention in its operation - the main thing is to correctly adjust the air gap on the filler neck (usually 10 - 15 mm). It has good heat dissipation and can quickly heat a closed room.
At correct operation Such a potbelly stove does not smoke, and no fumes come out of the chimney pipe.
The furnace, to a certain extent, can be considered fireproof in the sense that the fuel (exhaust) itself never burns under normal conditions, and only the afterburning of the vapors it produces occurs in the chamber.

However, such a scheme has many disadvantages:

We have already mentioned the noisy operation of the stove. In addition, you cannot get rid of the characteristic smell. However, for garage conditions this should not have of great importance. Sometimes masters find another solution to a similar problem. For example, they install an additional air heat exchanger, through which air is driven by a fan, heating the adjacent room.

Both the combustion chamber (perforated pipe) and the chimney quickly become overgrown with deposits of combustion products and require frequent preventative cleaning.
Burning oil in the lower chamber always leaves a coked layer, which is quite difficult to clean.

Video - Stove being worked on

During operation of the stove, a number of mandatory rules must be observed:

The use of waste oil with flammable impurities, such as gasoline, is not allowed. The waste must be filtered so that it does not contain suspended solids.
Working with water is also dangerous - this can lead to boiling of the liquid and splashing of the oil, possibly igniting it. Collection of waste for further use as fuel must be carried out under conditions that prevent the ingress of water.
Under no circumstances should such a stove be placed in a strong draft - this may cause the flame to spread to surrounding objects. There should never be any flammable substances or materials around the stove. Reliable thermal insulation of the walls of the room must be provided.
The room must have reliable ventilation, since the operation of the stove is associated with intense absorption of air oxygen and the release of carbon monoxide, which is dangerous to health and life.
It is strictly forbidden to use any other flammable liquids as fuel - this may result in an explosion in the upper chamber or chimney pipe.
You should never leave such a potbelly stove unattended. It is strictly forbidden to go to bed in a room with a working stove. Before leaving, you should make sure that the oil has completely burned out and that the process of burning off its vapors has ended.
It is forbidden to pour water on the stove to cool it, or use water to extinguish the fire - this will only aggravate the dangerous situation.
The stove should not have horizontal sections. Allowed sloping section to change direction at an angle of 45 degrees. The minimum length of the chimney pipe should be 4 m, and the recommended length is from 5 to 7 m.
The recommended fill level when initially filling the stove is up to ⅔ of the volume of the lower container.
When using such a stove in a garage, there must be a powder fire extinguisher or a box of sand near it.

So, probably anyone who has solid plumbing skills can make a potbelly stove for a garage. It is enough to show your imagination or use the drawings of ready-made designs - and everything should work out. The main thing, both in the manufacture and in the operation of such stoves, is to constantly observe basic safety measures so that the heating device does not cause a big disaster.

A small potbelly stove can save you from unjustified costs of expensive gas, and due to its small size it consumes little firewood, so it is an ideal option for heating a garage or country house.

This device is a small stove that runs on wood. Its main advantage is fast heat transfer. Heating of the room thus occurs in a short time. They are made of metal, so they cool almost immediately after the combustion stops.

There are boilers of the following types:

By type of material: stainless steel or cast iron.
By type of design: with a hob and oven.
By type of fuel: wood, fuel, peat or sawdust.

It is capable of operating using spent fuel. Due to the environmental friendliness of the fuel, such a stove will not pollute the environment. The simple design does not create any difficulties during operation. You can adapt the oven to any need (heating, cooking, drying clothes).

Advice: It is necessary to use the heating device with extreme caution, as there is a high risk of cinders falling outside of it.

Making a mini potbelly stove yourself

By assembling such a stove yourself, you can inexpensively heat any small room. A mini potbelly stove is easy to assemble with your own hands. To do this, you need a certain list of tools:

level for construction, measuring tape;
welder;
Bulgarian;
chisel;
sheet metal for components;
chimney duct;
barrel (for a cylindrical model);

Progress

The container of the future furnace will stand horizontally. To do this, take an old gas cylinder. This is an almost finished mini-stove with wood. There is no need to divide it into 2 parts; instead, the ash chamber can be welded from below, which will save the working volume of the device. Next, you should cut out the firebox window.

The fire door is purchased separately and fits into the prepared hole. When the ash compartment is welded, you can begin to make supports for the stove. To do this, metal pipes are attached to the bottom of the chamber using a welding machine. The length of the pipes is selected individually. WITH reverse side a hole is made for the chimney pipe.

When there is little free space, you can construct a vertical model. It is necessary to divide the cylinder into 2 parts. Fasteners are welded to the inner walls of the cylinder; the grille will rest on them. The top closes steel sheet. It can serve as a hob.

Tip: Do not make the bottom of the combustion chamber from thin, fusible metal. It will quickly become unusable. Ideal option will use an old cast iron grate. A cast iron pot is suitable as a plug, which can become a container for heating water.

As a chimney, you can weld a 90 degree bend behind. The rest of the chimney is attached to it.

Option from a wood-burning receiver tank

The receiver tank is perfect for making a stove. There is no need to make a door for loading firewood. The hatch cover opens from above, through which firewood will be loaded. It is equipped with a handle for ease of use. A hole is cut at the bottom to collect the ash. We advise you to study in more detail and find answers to your questions.

This option is easy to make, but requires caution when using. The disadvantage of this model is the inconvenience of cleaning the ash pan. But for use in the garage or at the dacha, this is an excellent option.

As an option, a small potbelly stove is made with your own hands from sheets of steel. Below is a drawing of a simple stove made from ready-made steel plates. The drawing contains all dimensions. Two partitions will allow you to remove maximum efficiency from fuel, because thanks to the labyrinth inside the chamber, combustion products slowly leave it. We also advise you to study brick in addition to this article.

The thickness of metal sheets must be at least 4 mm. The grate can be a metal plate with drilled holes or even reinforcement.

The body can be encased in a 2 mm steel casing. This will avoid the following problems:

the hot surface of the oven will not cause burns or accidental fire;
the amount of infrared radiation will decrease several times;
an air gap between the casing and the surface of the stove will allow it to heat evenly and better heat the room.

Spent fuel model

We’ll now figure out how to make a mini-potbelly stove with your own hands using waste fuel. It will be more difficult to assemble such a stove. Its advantage is that fuel is practically free for it. The heating element in it is the evaporation of boiling old oil, which rises through the pipe.

The design consists of two tanks connected by a pipe. The diameter of the pipe should be 100 mm, the length should be 4 times greater. Small holes are drilled in this pipe, of which there should be many. Stands are welded to the lower tank for a stable position during operation. A pipe with holes is welded to the lower chamber of the device, and the upper tank, in turn, is welded to it. In the oil filling compartment, it is necessary to drill a hole through which the tank will be refilled.

Often homeowners prefer to assemble simple and useful homemade products from scrap and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made ones. And a potbelly stove is one of these useful devices.

The main feature of a potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide rapid heating, while appearance device is often completely unimportant to the user.

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands, and, if desired, modernize it to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Are you also thinking about assembling such a homemade product and don’t know where to start? We will help you complete the task - the article discusses the assembly procedure various options homemade stoves, drawings and diagrams are provided.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a homemade potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

Exactly flammable material, which has different temperatures and combustion patterns, dictates the principles for creating different modifications of the device.

The shape of a potbelly stove can be different, often depending on the availability of suitable material. This could be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - whatever is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image gallery

A grate made of grate (it can be welded from reinforcement) is placed at the bottom of the chamber, under which ash will accumulate. You can also organize a hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

It’s good if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the stove on bricks.

A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called “Titan”. To do this, install on top of the stove stainless steel container, through which the chimney pipe passes.

The water in a wood-burning boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one load into a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut out in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top of such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that you can cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more on our website detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a sawdust stove

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - the compacted sawdust inside does not burn, it smolders slowly, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

A self-made sawdust stove works on the principle long burning. The slow combustion process saves resources - heat does not immediately fly out into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be metal barrel with an open top (if the container is sealed, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for compacting sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. Using this circle, the ash pit is fenced off - in it, with the help of shavings or wood chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

Below the welded circle, a window is cut out, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

An exit to the chimney is made in the lid of the container. The lid must fit tightly onto the potbelly stove and be made of a fairly thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to ensure a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and compacted. The cone is carefully removed, turning, and the lid is put on the barrel.

The same model can be improved by adding an additional cylinder. In this option, the sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this option, the outlet of smoky gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can you improve your potbelly stove?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a mass positive qualities, but also has many significant disadvantages. It is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average every 30-40 minutes.

In addition, a large amount of heat escapes through the chimney into the atmosphere, bringing no benefit. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is ongoing.

The standard design of a potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow:

save fuel;
increase the efficiency of the stove;
increase heat capacity;
reduce the frequency of fuel filling.

The most common methods for increasing the efficiency of a potbelly stove are creating a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and installing heat-resistant lining of the internal walls.

You can also improve the quality performance of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area using welded pipes and installed fan, which will drive air currents through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called “Buleryan”, but besides it, there are many more various designs made in a handicraft way. We recommend watching detailed master class By homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time if you line the stove with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died down.

Are you interested in brickwork? We have it on our website detailed guide do it yourself with diagrams and drawings.

Option #1 – stove with increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. The basis is taken as a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and complemented with a cassette made of a blind sealed cylinder. Such design additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to a cassette cylinder about 400 mm high. After installing the cylinder into the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove plate. To make it easy to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when installing it on the stove, they can immediately fall onto the burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

The lower part of the firewood, falling on the coals of the preparatory ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to lack of oxygen, but will dry under the influence of hot smoke.
Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually falls into the firebox.
The hot gas, which is in the cylinder for some time, gives off heat to it, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
At the same time, the temperature of the exhaust smoke decreases, which means the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

As a result of this modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option #2 – long-burning potbelly stove “Bubafonya”

The low efficiency of a conventional potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as “Bubafonya” and “Filipina”.

This stove model is used in non-residential premises- workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. To work for 9-12 hours, one stack of small firewood, chips, and sawdust is enough. Coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used in this heating device model.

A potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuel and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following sequence:

A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut for the chimney.
A circle is cut out of metal (at least 10 mm thick), slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the rod pipe used).
Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated so that the piston, when lowered, rises above the reservoir lid by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will arise in it and it will begin to smoke.
Next, they build a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it that fits the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the supply of air from the street into the firebox. Thus, heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option #3 – furnace with secondary combustion “Filipina”

The furnace uses two methods to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. To make it, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of actions for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

The cylinders are prepared for use by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that are formed during the operation of the angle grinder can provoke a gas explosion, a certain amount of which always remains in the cylinder.
In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the firebox and ash pan, remove the tap and cut off the top (it is used to make the door), and cut out a hole for installing a chimney.
Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the lid of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded; it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder where the top is cut, in which the locations for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
Place the upper chamber on the pipe, aligning the holes, wind a heat-resistant rope between the rings, and secure the connection with screws.
The chimney exit is made from the bottom of the secondary combustion chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install the door on the awnings. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the firebox.

This name for stoves is familiar to everyone. She represents small sizes structure that is designed to heat a room. Of course, with large areas It won’t be able to handle it, but as far as garages and workshops are concerned, it will be quite capable of providing heat. Some models also have a stove on top, which allows you to prepare teas or even a small lunch.

This modification of stoves is easy to do with your own hands, and most importantly, they are made. Why? The fact is that this design has a number of advantages:

the drawing is quite simple, so there are no special problems with construction;
not available for installation special requirements, so installing a potbelly stove is quite simple;
small dimensions allow you to freely place the stove in almost any room;

There are also no special requirements for fuel, so you won’t need much money for refueling;
the weight of the potbelly stove does not require any specific foundation;
quick heating and heating of the room;
to create such a device, not so much material will be required, which will save money;
if the device is equipped with a hob on top, then hot tea or even a minimal lunch will always be at hand;
the chimney here has the most simple design, which allows you to place the stove even on the second floor or in a recess in the floor.

Such undeniable advantages make it possible to understand why potbelly stoves are so often installed in utility rooms. But to be truly objective, it is worth saying that this device also has its own weak sides. Firstly, quick cooling. The stove heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. Therefore, to maintain constant heat you will need a lot of fuel. Which is the second drawback. Although here you can use the material that tends to burn or smolder for a long time. Secondly, from the point of view of fire hazard, this option is very unsafe. Therefore, it is important to take precautions here. But with a competent approach, the shortcomings of a potbelly stove can be easily corrected, especially in terms of operation.

Despite the fact that many stoves of this design do not look very attractive in photographs, they fully cope with their purpose - heating the room. The main thing is to assemble the structure correctly and ensure safe operation.

Making a rectangular stove

What are they not making potbelly stoves from? The imagination of folk craftsmen is not limited. But for those who have never taken on such a design, it’s worth starting with a more simplified version - rectangular stove. This is the most popular model, which, moreover, is quite easy to assemble.

In order to make a potbelly stove yourself, you will need to prepare next material and tool:

plan drawing - the dimensions of each element are noted in it;
metal sheets - their number depends on the desired size of the stove, the main thing is that the material is no thinner than 4 mm;
steel corners;
metal pipe(30 mm);
pipe (180 mm);
welding machine.

To create this option you will need to do the following:

Metal sheets must first be cleaned and degreased, otherwise the welding machine will not be able to connect them reliably. To do this, you can use an ordinary soap solution or special cleaning agents.
On the sheet of metal that will serve as the front part, it is necessary to cut two holes - one will serve to collect ash, and the other will serve as the firebox door. The door size should be 3-4 cm smaller than the width of the future potbelly stove. As for the height of the location, it is usually made 1/3 lower than the top edge. Do not forget that at the bottom there will be another rectangular hole for the ash pan. It is advisable to separate them.
To make the door you will need a little metal bigger size than the resulting window. To connect two elements, you can use steel hinges. The door must have a handle that will allow you to open and close the potbelly stove.
Now the metal sheets are welded together to form a rectangular box. You should start with the side walls, which are fixed to the bottom. To control the vertical and horizontal directions, it is worth using a building level during such work. Next they weld back wall. The internal space is divided into three parts - smoke circulation, firebox and ash pan. A grate is installed between the last two parts. 10-15 cm are measured on the side walls and corners are welded over the entire valley. Pre-prepared strips of the same sheet steel with a width of 2.5-3 cm are fixed to them. As for the length, then you need to focus on the existing dimensions of the potbelly stove. Distance – 5cm. all elements are welded to two rods. Here you need to do this work as efficiently as possible, since such strips additionally serve as stiffeners.

You should not weld the grate itself to the walls, because when you need to clean or replace any element in the potbelly stove, you will have to disassemble the entire structure. Otherwise, it’s enough to just pull out the grille.
Now you need to fix two metal rods in the upper part of the side walls. They will serve as a support for the reflector. It is positioned in such a way that there is a channel in front through which the smoke will leave the potbelly stove. The reflector has to withstand the most high temperatures. Therefore, for its manufacture it is better to choose metal 1.5 cm thick.
Now you can start working on the top cover. Here it is better to make a hole in advance for the future chimney. Next, the jumper is cut out and welded. It will be necessary to make an even narrower one, which is placed at the level of the grate. It is this that will separate the door of the grate and the ash pan.
Now the door handles, latches and curtains are welded. As for the last elements, for reliability it is worth using a thick rod and a steel pipe.

Once the structure is ready, it is installed on legs. For such purposes, a metal pipe (diameter 8-10 cm) is perfect, which is cut into pieces of 2-4 cm. A nut with a screwed-in bolt is welded to each end. This will ensure reliable stability.
The last stage is the installation of the chimney. Here you need a pipe with a diameter of 15-18 cm. If we talk about the length, then it should be enough to bring the chimney out. Therefore, in order to avoid waste of material, it is worth thinking about the location of the potbelly stove. Since the chimney involves bends, each such angle should be equal to 45 degrees. A rotating damper is equipped at the lower end. The chimney itself is placed on a sleeve 15-20 cm high. For this purpose, a product with a diameter smaller than the main pipe is used. Cooking is used to combine.

Once the product is ready, it can be installed and used.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

If you don’t want to tinker with the drawing for a long time and then assemble the stove from separate pieces, then you can use an old gas cylinder. His geometric shapes perfect for this type of product. This stove can then be placed in a garage or even a country annex.

All work on making a potbelly stove yourself has several main stages:

First, the upper part, where there is a tap, is removed. A plug for the future chimney is welded in its place. This element is used to block the chimney while the stove is cold.
Visually dividing the balloon into three parts, cut a hole in the lowest section square shape. It will serve to load fuel. The rest of the metal can be used under the door. But first, they scald it around the edges to make it required size. At the same stage, hinges and a handle can be welded to the door. If desired, it can be equipped with a lock.
Several holes are cut in the bottom of the cylinder. They will serve as a grate. To make an ash pan, you will need thinner metal. This element is welded rectangular shape. Experts recommend equipping the ash pan with a door so that it can simultaneously serve as a blower. Now the box can be welded under the grate.
To keep the cylinder in a vertical position, three supports are welded from the bottom. For such purposes, you can use a pipe or a metal corner.
The last step is the creation of the chimney. The requirements here are the same as for a rectangular potbelly stove. A thick pipe is welded into the hole and bent at an angle of 45 degrees. It is advisable to bring the end of the chimney outside or provide good ventilation to the room.

If desired, you can weld a frame made of steel reinforcement and then it will become like a hob.

A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder can also be placed horizontally. The sequence of work here is similar to that with the vertical position, but only the door is made in the place where the valve was, and the chimney is attached to the end where the bottom of the cylinder is located.

Brick stove

What is going on here is not the creation of the potbelly stove itself, but rather the deliverance metal structure from its shortcomings, and in particular from rapid heat loss. To do this, it’s worth simply covering it with bricks.

But in such a situation there is also a drawback - limited metal has the ability to quickly burn out. Therefore, you can actually try to assemble a potbelly stove from brick. Maybe someone will think that this is a violation classic version, although this model will heat. BUT! Such a stove is installed once and for all. But this option has a number of advantages:

it has an order of magnitude lower risk of fire. How metal model;
the efficiency level is higher than that of the classical variation;
a brick potbelly stove is injury-proof;
Heat retention occurs much longer than in metal stoves, so the room will be warm for a longer time if the fire goes out.

If the room has a concrete floor, then there is no need to think about the foundation for the stove. Otherwise, a full foundation will be required.

Before laying the stove, the floor is dismantled to create a 40 cm deepening. A layer of sand and crushed stone is placed on the bottom, which is covered with reinforcing mesh on top. Next, the formwork is installed and concrete is poured. It is advisable to add crushed stone to the solution. Construction of the potbelly stove begins no earlier than 7 days after the foundation is poured. This time is enough for the base to harden.

As soon as the concrete hardens, it is covered with roofing felt and sprinkled with sand. The first brick row does not require bonding mortar. When working, be sure to use a building level. A bonding solution will be required for the ends. On the second row, the blower door is secured, and just above it, the grate is fixed.

On the fourth row, the combustion chamber is being created. The firebox door is also installed here. To keep this element in place, use bold clay mortar and wire, which serves for additional fastening. For this purpose, there are special holes in the oven door.

If a brick potbelly stove is used to heat a large room, then it is better to lay it out in 10 rows. For the base of the chimney, the brick is laid out in 2-3 rows, and then the pipe is attached to it.

In general, there is nothing complicated about this product. But it can look much more aesthetically pleasing than a metal stove.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

This option is suitable for those who are not particularly concerned about aesthetics, but only require warmth. This option Suitable not only for barrels, but also for very large diameter pipes.

In order to make such a stove, you need to perform the following steps:

two rectangular holes are cut out from the outside - the entrance to the combustion chamber and the ash pan;
“extra” pieces of the barrel are framed with metal strips and equipped with a handle with a latch - in the future these will be doors;

10cm down from the combustion hole, with inside the barrels are welded with corner brackets, on top of which a grate is laid (purchased separately or made independently);
legs are welded to the bottom from the outside - for this you can use pipes or metal corners;
then hinges are attached near the holes and on the doors and the elements are connected;
It is recommended to clean all the seams at the end so that the stove looks neater and less dangerous;
as soon as everything is ready, the device can be connected to the chimney, which is previously taken out into the street.

This method of making a potbelly stove is also excellent for pipes. Only after the grate is installed should you remember to weld the bottom of the pipe and the top part. And it’s nothing complicated!

In fact, there are many options on how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands. Sometimes craftsmen come up with such masterpieces that store-bought designer devices simply cannot even stand close. But you need to chase not beauty and originality, but safety. After all, during operation of the potbelly stove, carbon monoxide will be released, which can even poison a person. Therefore, when working in a room heated by such a device, every 30-40 minutes you need to go out into the fresh air and ventilate the space.

Making a potbelly stove is half the battle. You still have to enjoy using it. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here - throw in some firewood and warm yourself up. But not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance.

Why ready-made devices are they more expensive? Because the assembly engineers provided all the amenities. To homemade stove also brought pleasure, it’s worth thinking about the following points:

protection - when adding fuel, old coals can fall out, which is quite dangerous, so you need to build a small mesh in front of the combustion chamber;
since the stove is heating up, it is worth insulating it a little on the outside, or at least insulating the surrounding surfaces - this will reduce the risk of fire;

It is advisable to cover the potbelly stove with heat-resistant paint or an anti-corrosion coating - this way the product will last much longer;
It is worth attaching handles to the body, since during fuel combustion, the walls of the device will become very hot;
A traction regulator through the wheels is definitely needed - this makes the operation of the potbelly stove more comfortable;
if a potbelly stove is made from an old gas cylinder, then it is important to make sure that there is no dangerous substance left inside the container - otherwise there is a high risk of explosion.

Safe Operation

Homemade products are always dangerous because during their construction, a person may lose sight of any details that seem insignificant to him. But in fact, it is they who will be responsible for the risk of injury to the final product. The same applies to DIY potbelly stoves.

To ensure that your home stove only brings warmth, you should pay attention to the following points:

the stove must stand on a fireproof surface - tiles, brickwork, metal sheet good thickness, etc.;

if the stove is located near the walls, then it is also recommended to protect them - for such purposes you can use the same tiles, fire-resistant drywall or any other material that is not afraid of contact with high temperatures;
there should not be any flammable materials or substances near the device - the maximum permissible distance is no closer than 1.5 meters (firefighters generally recommend not keeping such items indoors);
Since the potbelly stove was assembled independently, it is not safe from the production of harmful substances, so the room should be good ventilation(both artificial and natural);
When making a product, it is better to choose only high-quality material - at a minimum, such a product will last longer, and at maximum, it will not cause any harm to its owner.

The service life and quality of heat directly depends on how a person approaches this issue. Therefore, it is better to spend a little money, especially since a couple of sheets of metal will definitely be cheaper than a full-fledged heater. But the room will be warm and cozy.

Potbelly stove – perfect solution in conditions where it is necessary to provide heating for small spaces (garage, utility room, heating a bathhouse), spending a minimum amount Money. The ability to use materials that almost everyone has, as well as the ease of making it yourself, allows you to save money. Next, we’ll look at what you can make a potbelly stove from and provide specific drawings.

What tool is needed?

Regardless of the selected drawing or design features potbelly stove, to carry out work on its manufacture, in addition to materials, you need to prepare the following tools and equipment:

Hammer.
Bulgarian.
Welding.
Drill.
Drill.
Brush.
Chisel.
Pliers.
Roulette.

It is understood that each of the listed tools is designed to work with metals.

Choose a type and start working

Let's get started:

According to the given dimensions, you need to cut out the elements from the sheet from which the stove will be made. Try to clean up the cut edges as much as possible.
The part for fastening the components of the potbelly stove is being prepared - a pipe with holes.
Parts of the upper tank are prepared for installation of the chimney pipe. To do this, according to the data given in the drawing, you need to make a hole shifted to the left in relation to the cent. Also, another hole is made at the bottom of the tank (offset to the right) - it is intended for installing a connecting pipe.
The component parts are welded together and a finished tank is obtained.
The lower tank is welded in the same way. Only a hole is made to install the pipe in the center. You also need to make another hole with a slight offset - recycling will be poured into it. A special sliding lid is made over the filling hole.
The lower tank is attached to the upper one (they are welded to the connecting pipe). Strengthen the structure using brackets.
Don't forget to lower tank weld the legs.
To increase service life, the stove is cleaned and painted.

You connect the potbelly stove to the chimney and try to heat the garage. To do this, pour fuel into the lower tank and set it on fire. When it flares up, you need to close the processing hole with a sliding lid.

Important: To paint the structure, use special heat-resistant paints.

Rectangular wood stove

This option is suitable when you need to heat a garage or bathhouse rooms intended for recreation.

The features of the model, the manufacture of which we will describe with our own hands further, are: great heat dissipation and the ability to adjust traction force.

Our oven will have dimensions 45x45x80. These dimensions are enough to heat an average room. It will hold long pieces of wood and is easy to move.

In this case, we will not provide a specific drawing, and will try to explain it in words as much as possible. Before starting work, we buy:

Steel 3-4 mm thick. A sheet of one and a half by two meters will be enough.
A piece of pipe. Choose with a diameter from 90 to 100 mm. Length: 0.4 m.
Reinforcement 16 mm. You need exactly 6.2 m.
Five kilograms of electrodes.
Four door hinges.
A steel rod, half a meter long and about 10 mm in diameter.
Seven meters of corner with a 40 mm shelf. The walls should have a thickness of 5 mm.

When everything necessary is prepared, we begin to work with our own hands in the following sequence:

The future walls of the structure are cut out of the sheets.
The corner is welded in such a way as to form a frame. When performing this and the first point, you need to remember the above dimensions of the stove (45x45x80).
The reinforcement is cut and welded to the frame at intervals of 2 cm.
The finished frame is scalded with tin.
Along the diameter of the smooth rod in the section of the pipe that will be the chimney, you need to make 2 holes. The pipe is welded to the frame (before this you need to make a hole for it).
A curved rod is inserted into the chimney holes. It should be shaped like a right angle. A piece of round tin, slightly smaller in size than the internal diameter of the chimney, is welded to it - it will be used for adjustment.
The potbelly stove must have doors. They are cut directly from the body. Loops are welded onto the removed piece of metal, with the help of which they are attached to the stove.
The doors are equipped with bolts and handles that can be made to any convenient view. The main thing is that they guarantee maximum fixation of the door (if you don’t want to burn down the garage).
When the work is finished, you can check the result of the work with your own hands and start heating the garage.

Important: To ensure traction, the doors are fastened so that there are small gaps.

Potbelly stove from a pipe

This option implies ease of doing the work yourself and an aesthetic appearance, which will allow you to heat not only the garage, but also small rooms in the country.

Work algorithm:

The pipe is taken and cut to the required length.
2 holes are cut out in the side part: for the ash pan and the firebox. The distance between them is approximately 15 cm.
The cut pieces of metal will serve as doors. Their size is increased by welding metal strips on top. You also need to immediately install handles that secure the door.
Corner brackets are welded inside the future stove (they will support the grate, welded with your own hands from fittings or purchased in a store).
The grate is installed.
In the circle of metal that will cover the pipe opening (the upper part of the stove), you need to make a hole for attaching the pipe (smoke exhaust).
The bottom and top of the stove are brewed.
The pipe is welded.
The hinges are welded and the doors are installed.
The furnace at the weld joints is cleaned and painted with special paint.
The last stage is connecting to a chimney that is led outside the premises.

If everything is done correctly, the potbelly stove will be able to completely heat a garage or other small room.

Can stove

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands from any old can. For this you need:

Can.
A piece of pipe.
Rebar or wire.

Let's get started:

On a can installed in a horizontal position, mark the location of the rectangular pit. It should be placed under the cover.
Cut a hole for the chimney. It can be in the bottom or wall.
We make a grate. It is easier to make it from steel wire, which, in a bent form, is brought into the middle of the future stove and straightened. You need to position the zigzag in such a way that it is as convenient as possible to fill the potbelly stove with firewood.
Attaching the legs.
We weld the chimney.

The design implies a minimum of manufacturing costs and you do not need to have professional skills to complete the work. With its help you can safely heat the garage and other utility rooms.

Gas cylinder stove

If you have a gas cylinder lying around on your property, use it to create a potbelly stove.

Sequence of work:

Cut off the tap and plug the hole.
Cut a hole in the bottom for the door. Doors are made from the resulting piece of bottom, by scalding it with a strip of metal.
A handle lock is attached to the doors and they are mounted on the cylinder using hinges that are welded.
In the part of the cylinder that will be the bottom, you need to make a grate. To do this, just make holes.
A tin box is welded under the holes in the bottom, into which soot and waste will fall. You also need to make doors in the front of the box - they will be used to adjust the draft.
The stove needs to be lifted off the ground using the legs. An ordinary pipe is suitable for their manufacture.
A smoke outlet is welded into the upper part of the cylinder.
If necessary, a hob can be installed on the surface of the structure.

Such a stove will heat a garage or a small country house.

A potbelly stove is a fairly simple device for heating rooms. When performing work, remember that the stove must not only heat, but also meet minimum fire safety requirements.