DIY steam room step by step instructions. Comfortable mini-steam room in a private house and at the dacha with your own hands: step-by-step technology for arranging a steam room in a house with your own hands

It seems that the steam room is being set up without any hassle. And it’s hard to argue with this, because when decorating such a room, they don’t think about architectural delights. However, creating a steam room must follow strict rules. Only a flawlessly constructed steam room can become a place for complete relaxation.

General structure of the steam room

The main furniture of the steam room is a shelf, a high platform on which to steam. If the bathhouse is designed for visiting big company, then there should be several shelves in the steam room.

The platform in the bathhouse is constructed from wooden slats, and small gaps are left between them, which will not allow moisture to linger on the surface of the shelf.

The easiest option for installing a shelf is attaching a wooden structure to the floor

Typically, a high platform is attached to walls, behind which horizontal support bars are laid. This fixation option is better than the standard floor grip, since it does not limit the area of ​​the steam room and greatly simplifies cleaning the floor that is not occupied by the legs of the shelf. Another advantage of a platform attached to the walls is the ability to place buckets and other bath accessories on the floor under the wooden structure.

In addition to the platform, there is a stove in the steam room.

In most cases, a brick oven is installed in the steam room, which heats up relatively quickly and does not cool down for a long time.

There are many options for a stove for heating a steam room: it can be either brick or metal. And recently, bathhouse owners have even installed electric stoves in the steam room. The choice of device for producing hot steam depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the steam room owner.

Photo gallery: steam room options

You can use an electric oven to heat the air in the steam room, but it is expensive. The stove is sometimes placed in a corner near the door, but this is not The best decision The steam room can look original if you make shelves from different boards Corner shelves take up little space, but may be inconvenient Fans of a simple Russian bath do without lining and build shelves from thick boards

Preparing for the construction of a steam room

When planning the construction of a steam room, you need to decide what size it will be. There should be 0.7 m² per person in the steam room.

Experts advise making a steam room for 3 or 4 people in the bathhouse. This is due to the recommendations of doctors not to steam alone. It is much more difficult to bear the heat without company.

There is no need to make the steam room either cramped or very spacious. In the first case, it will be uncomfortable, and in the second, it will be quite cool, because it is difficult to heat a large room. It is preferable to create a steam room of size 2x2.4 meters. But deviating from standard solutions is not prohibited.

Photo gallery: drawings and dimensions of the steam room in relation to the dimensions of other rooms in the bathhouse

In a large bathhouse it is possible to make a large shelf The dimensions of the steam room must correspond to the dimensions of the washing room To save space in the bathhouse, it is worth making a steam room less than two meters wide and building it corner shelves Even in small sauna it is possible to make a steam room 3x2 meters

Determining the size of the steam room

To some extent, the width of the steam room depends on the way a person is placed on the shelf. If it is planned that the person relaxing in the bathhouse will sit on a platform, then the room is made compact.

When you decide to steam while lying down, more space is provided to create a steam room. In this situation, the optimal width is equal to the height of the tallest person in the family, plus another 20 cm.

The dimensions of the shelf and bath are chosen taking into account the position in which it is convenient to steam

The height of the steam room can be from 2.2 to 2.4 meters. It is determined based on the height of the tallest visitor to the bathhouse. When entering the steam room, this person should not touch the ceiling with his head.

Subtleties of material selection

A bathhouse with a steam room is installed in a log house made of logs or beams made of linden or aspen. These materials retain heat, smell pleasant and do not retain exhaust air in the room. Adherents of alternative options often install baths made of brick or laminated timber.

Insulation material

The walls and ceiling of the steam room are insulated both on the outside and on the inside using regular or foil-lined mineral wool.

Mineral wool is a high-quality raw material and inexpensive. Only foam glass, a material that is unusually resistant to the influence of high temperatures, can better perform its task of preserving heat in a bathhouse.

Mineral wool, rolled into a roll, is considered the best material for insulating a steam room

Expanded polystyrene is absolutely not suitable for insulating a bathhouse. Constantly heating up due to hot steam, it will begin to release toxins.

Waterproofing material

Glassine or foil is used as a waterproofing sheet. And the casing for attaching all the materials that protect the steam room from heat loss and fungal damage is made from wood that does not contain resin. We are talking about linden, alder, aspen and cedar. Materials made from these trees do not deteriorate for a long time, as they are not afraid of dampness and temperature changes.

Foil is ideal for protecting steam room walls from moisture

Decoration Materials

It is customary to decorate the steam room only with natural wood. Materials treated with chemicals are not suitable for covering surfaces in a steam room, as high temperatures cause them to release toxic substances into the air. This phenomenon does not happen with traditional lining, the planks of which are connected to each other according to the “tongue and groove” principle.

To decorate the steam room, it is advisable to purchase lining 15 mm thick. It is important to check the purchased material for splinters. There should be no defects in high-quality construction materials.

Lining has become the most popular material for finishing bath rooms

It is wiser to cover the floor of the steam room with boards or cover it tiles. If the choice is made in favor wooden covering, then you should purchase material only from larch. There is no need to put insulation under the board floor, since practically no heat escapes from the steam room through the bottom.

A practical steam room owner will decide to cover the floor with tiles, which, unlike wood, can be easily washed and disinfected. It’s good if he also realizes that the tiles need to be glued to the lower zone of the walls, because drops of water often fall on this place.

Ceramic tiles do not deteriorate from exposure to moisture and are therefore often used to decorate steam rooms.

Door selection

Windows in the steam room should be completely abandoned, but the door should be such that it does not let precious heat out of the room. The temperature in the steam room will not drop if you build a 30 cm high threshold at the entrance to the steam room and make the door ceiling low.

By creating a threshold, less warm air will escape from the steam room

To make it convenient to enter the steam room, it is better to install the doors near the stove. They should open inward, to the side where the person entering cannot get burned due to accidental contact with the stove.

The door to the steam room should open without problems. This means there are no constipations or locks that could break due to dampness and extreme heat.

Wood and glass are considered good materials for making steam room doors.. Boards, compared to glass, have more significant advantages, because they can be insulated. But a glass door can visually increase the area of ​​the steam room.

You may like the glass door because it seems to attract a person to relax in the steam room

Required materials and tools

Creating a steam room will require the use of materials such as:

• vapor barrier membrane;
• bars measuring 6x2.7 cm and 5x2.5 cm;
• corners;
• mineral wool;
• polypropylene twine;
• aluminium foil;
• planed boards 2–3 cm thick;
• antifungal impregnation;
• lining;
• liquid concrete;
• ceramic tile;
• heat-resistant mastic and grout.

The formula will help determine how much material is needed for the floor and ceiling of the steam room: N = Sp/Sm, where N is the volume of construction raw materials, Sp is the surface area, in m², and Sm is the area of ​​one piece of material, in m² (for example, the area one tile or board).

Calculation of the amount of material for finishing the walls of the steam room is carried out after determining the area that needs to be covered with clapboard, according to the formula S = (2AN + 2BH) – ah, where A is the length of the room; H - room height; B is the width of the room; a - door width; h - door height.

Having found out the area of ​​the walls, calculate the area of ​​one wood panel: the length of one lining element is multiplied by its width, and then the groove area is subtracted from the resulting value. The last computational action to determine the required amount of lining is dividing the finishing area by the area of ​​one panel.

Installation of building materials in the steam room must be carried out using the following tools:

• building level;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• brush with short bristles;
• regular and rubber hammers;
• saw;
• stapler;
• mixer;
• construction gun;
• shoulder blade;
• clamps and screws;
• plastic crosses;
• nails, the length of which is 3 times the thickness of the boards.

Step-by-step creation of a steam room

Creating a steam room indoors is step by step process, consisting of waterproofing, insulation and finishing work.

Insulation against steam and water

To prepare the steam room for finishing, perform the following steps:

Laying insulation

Immediately before finishing the steam room, do the following:

1. Mineral wool is placed into the manufactured frame. To insure it from deformation, polypropylene twine is used for fastening. The vapor barrier material is again fixed on top of the insulation.
   

   Suitable sized pieces of mineral wool are placed in the sheathing

2. Thermal insulation material is attached to the ceiling, which is usually protected from dampness with sheets of aluminum foil. Then the planed boards are nailed down. Between them leave gaps of 1 cm, necessary for ventilation of the room.

   Planed boards are attached to the ceiling with long nails

3. Cut the lining to the required length. After this, it is treated with antifungal impregnation. The work is postponed for several days, giving the material the opportunity to dry thoroughly.
4. The lining is horizontally attached to the walls of the steam room, starting from the area near the stove. Wood planks connected so that each previous one overlaps the next by 1 cm. This will insure the material from the formation of cracks, which may be the result of deformation or shrinkage of the lining. The planks are held in place using discreet clamps that don't heat up like nails. But the lower boards are attached with self-tapping screws, which in the future will make it possible to replace rotten planks without resorting to complete dismantling of the material. The lining is not installed all the way to the floor. At the bottom of the wall, be sure to leave space for attaching one row of ceramic tiles.

   Installing the lining resembles assembling a construction set: each board is inserted into the groove of the plank attached above

Floor finishing

To finish the floor in the steam room, do the following work:

Video: how and with what to decorate a steam room in a bathhouse

The wall behind the stove can be protected from fire with a brick screen

To avoid heat loss through the exit, the door installed in the steam room is trimmed with boards on both sides. Inner surface The entrance structure is covered with foil and mineral wool.

In the steam room, it is recommended to make two-tier or three-tier shelves in the form of a ladder. The first stage should be located at a large distance from the floor, since cool air circulates at the bottom of the steam room. The second shelf is made 50 cm higher than the first.

The second or third step of the platform, if it is the last, should be 1 meter away from the ceiling. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to use a broom on the shelf.

On the wall of the steam room next to which the stove is located, they create ventilation ducts. The hole for the air supply is made in a place slightly above the floor level, and the exhaust duct is located opposite the supply duct - on the wall near the ceiling. The diameter of this hole should be 2 times the size of the inlet channel. Both ventilation passages are equipped with valves.

The inlet opening is created at the bottom of the steam room

The steam room should be illuminated with lamps placed in stainless metal housings. All wires are insulated and hidden in special boxes. The switch is mounted outside the steam room.

It makes more sense to mount lighting fixtures under the steps of the shelf. As a result, the light will not “hit” your eyes, and the lighting will be soft.

The finishing and arrangement of the steam room should be undertaken with a full understanding of the matter, because this construction task takes a lot of time and effort. To make the room warm and reliable, it is better to refuse savings. As a result, the steam room will be safe, high-quality and beautiful.

The steam room is the basis of the bath. The quality of its manufacture determines the mood of the owners and their guests, as well as the safety of those who steam.

All work on the steam room begins with a project. Make several project options. This way you can calculate all the required costs, as well as determine the possibility of installing the desired equipment. Having chosen an acceptable option, consider the stages of work so that in the future you do not encounter alterations of surfaces and structures.

When preparing a project, you should start from its center - the stove. Each oven has its own requirements for the size of the room, the presence or absence of ventilation, and the location of the shelves.

The size of the steam room is determined based on the number of people who will be in the steam room at the same time. Today the following dimensions are considered standard: length 2.4 m, width 2 m, height 2.2 m.

Lighting in the steam room

If you want, then of course you can install a window in the steam room, but why? An ordinary lamp is sufficient for lighting. It must be installed in a special lampshade. Wires and all other wiring components and connecting elements are carefully insulated. Humid air can damage lighting, if there are damaged areas on the wire or “cartridge”. A more reliable option is to lay the wire in a special box under layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier on the wall.

A window in a bathhouse, even the smallest one, creates a place for heat leakage and, as a result, requires thermal insulation. But still, if the desire is irresistible, then the window should be extremely small in size, for example, no more than two crowns in height, and no more than 500 mm in length. The ideal solution in this case would be to install a double-glazed window.

Installing ventilation in the steam room

The purpose of ventilation in a steam room is to ensure a healthy climate. The fact is that wet, heated wood is practically a farm for the reproduction of fungus, mold and other not very useful microorganisms. To provide ventilation, it is advisable to use an exhaust ventilation system.

The exhaust ventilation system removes excess humid air from the room, preventing the formation of condensation on the walls. When choosing ventilation, pay attention to its power.

If you are in doubt about the correct calculation of the power of the exhaust system, contact the company that installs it. exhaust systems. A specialist will come from the company, take all the necessary measurements, purchase the equipment himself and install it.

If you decide to do everything yourself, then you need:

1. Select and buy ventilation.
2. Cut a hole in the wall corresponding to the diameter of the exhaust system.
3. Insert the fan into the hole and secure it.
4. Foam and putty the uneven areas between the fan and the wall.

Interior decoration

The finishing of the steam room is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Ceiling.
2. Walls.

To prevent heat loss through the ceiling, multilayer insulation is used, see Figure 1.

As can be seen from the attached figure, the technology is as follows: a sheet of plywood is attached to the ceiling beam, this is done in order to completely cover the ceiling. Only then the boards are attached to it; they can be grooved or tongue-and-groove. It is advisable to leave a gap between them. A sheet of insulation is laid on top of the plywood. Some builders suggest using so-called foil, that is, covered with a layer of foil.

Wall insulation

Insulation is used to retain heat inside the steam room, preventing it from “escaping” through the walls, ceiling or floor.

Stages of work:

1. Insulation (rolled or matte mineral wool) is laid on the wall.
2. Foil is placed on the previous layer. Used as barrier layer thermal insulation.
3. The vapor barrier completes the “pie”.

All joints must be treated with aluminum-coated tape.

Steam room lining

The walls in the steam room are covered with clapboard, but only after the shelves have been assembled and installed. The material of the lining can provide a useful and unforgettable smell if it is made of coniferous species (pine, spruce). It is impossible to avoid resin drips, but you can reduce their appearance if you heat the bathhouse several times and remove the “streams”.

Deciduous trees are also suitable for lining (linden, cedar, etc.) They also have essential oils useful for inhalation.

Using a wooden panel with essential oils, you will provide yourself with a healing “corner”. Rest assured, such a steam room will save you and your family from respiratory diseases.

Also, the lining will provide higher vapor barrier and tightness if it is made of hardwood.

For cladding, it is best to use lining of the maximum permissible thickness, this will increase the vapor barrier and help avoid cracking of the board.

The lining is fastened with a “groove-to-groove” locking system, and is also screwed with self-tapping screws for reliability.

Shelves

The main requirement for shelves in a steam room is the absence of resins on its surface, and it should not leave traces of sweat. Of the wood that grows in Russia, aspen is optimally suited for these purposes in terms of its qualities, ease of processing, and price.

Structurally, it is advisable to attach the shelves to the wall, which significantly saves the volume of the room. If the steam room turns out to be small, then it makes sense to fix the shelves by analogy with the shelves in railway cars, that is, make them folding.

Bake

Selecting a stove is a responsible undertaking; each type has its own advantages. Thus, metal stoves quickly heat up and cool down, and on top of that, there is a high risk of getting a burn if you accidentally touch it. Stoves made of brick take a long time to heat up and retain heat longer. They require a separate, serious foundation. Both metal and brick stoves have one thing in common - an exhaust pipe.

In addition to traditional stoves, electric stoves are actively promoting on the market; they do not need an exhaust pipe, they can easily be adjusted to the desired modes, but its use entails the adoption additional measures electrical safety and it should be noted that the installation is carried out by specialists.

NOTE: There is a growing demand for soapstone stoves in the market. The use of this stone allows for uniform heating of the steam room and obtains soft, pleasant heat.

Traditionally, the stove is installed in a corner, near the door.

Door

The door in the steam room is the main cause of heat leakage, but the ways to eliminate this trouble are simple:

1. The threshold is raised to 30 cm from the floor level.
2. The ceiling is being lowered.
3. WITH outside The door wings are secured with linings that protrude beyond the perimeter of the door at a distance of 20-40 mm.

After all, the main task of the door, allowing a person inside the steam room, is to prevent the heat from escaping into the dressing room.

The door is sheathed with heat-insulating material inside and out, followed by clapboard cladding. As an option, there are special bath doors made of heat-resistant glass. This is interesting and nice solution, but quite expensive, not quite traditional for our steam rooms.

Actually, the entire procedure for arranging a steam room is outlined, and if you follow the recommendations, listen to the advice of those people who have already made a steam room with their own hands, and take into account their advantages and disadvantages, then we can say for sure that your steam room will be the best.

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do some gardening or landscaping, and then relax by taking a steam bath, provided that there is one there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It will take a lot of work, but it will be worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then in the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose a suitable project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and install all communications;
• do the interior finishing and only then worry about it.

If, after reading the introduction, you still have the desire to make a bathhouse at your dacha, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place to build a bathhouse

Often, summer cottages are not large in size, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also standards that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to place the bathhouse on a hill, which would greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
2. It’s good when the bathhouse is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating into the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bathhouse is clearly visible from the window country house. This way you can watch the heating of the bathhouse and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bathhouse can be made as an extension to the house.

So that there is no conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. By paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will provide only the numbers that you will need in order to choose the optimal location for the bathhouse.

Taking into account measures fire safety for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

Material from which load-bearing and enclosing structures are made		A distance that directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building
	The same buildings using wooden elements
	Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - showers, baths and saunas must be located at a distance of at least 8 m from the garden house.

By the way, failure to comply with these standards can lead to a lawsuit with a neighbor and the demolition or relocation of the bathhouse to another location.

Bathhouse project

When choosing a bathhouse project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bathhouse (made of timber or rounded logs).
3. Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, you need to prepare building materials in accordance with its requirements.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame buildings, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you won’t have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, unlike a frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built at the dacha does not need insulation.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bathhouse in a country house. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure requires a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bathhouse needs to be heated for a long time. The exception is buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Wood concrete is also often used in the construction of baths. The walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The walls of such a bathhouse are made in a lattice structure. For the frame walls you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can turn to the forums to find out what is acceptable in your region.
• Material for covering the frame outside and inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block house are used for the exterior cladding of a building, while lining is used on the inside.

Wooden sauna

For the construction of walls the following can be used:

• Natural debarked wood.
• Edged timber.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.
• Rounded log.

Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (rubble, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

If you can buy sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then it’s quite possible to make it at home arbolite blocks quite high quality. This building material is also available for sale in the form of ready-made blocks. The walls are erected very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of manufacturing monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse

The dressing room and rest room are warm rooms, so it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

To cover the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it can withstand high temperatures. Products made from pine or spruce cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to release from this wood. Also, you cannot hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can cause harm to human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bathhouse is heated. It is unlikely that anyone will do such a luxury at their dacha, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bathhouse.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is built into the structure. In a wooden bathhouse you need to make a crate into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation using more complex technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bathhouse and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. The insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to purchase a fake.

Decoration Materials

Because the we're talking about about a bathhouse in the country, let’s not talk about luxurious types of decoration. The best option There will be the use of wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for exterior finishing, it can be any material that is used for cladding houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Construction of a bathhouse

Now let's look at how you can build a bathhouse in your country house with your own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, who may be one of the family members. IN initial stage To complete the work, some tasks can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let’s be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work simply cannot be completed alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

Marking

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let’s start marking the area. To do this, you need to transfer the outline of the bathhouse to the area in accordance with the scale specified in the project. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is driven in, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90° are measured from it. The next pegs are driven in there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last, fourth peg is driven in.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future building, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, “shortening” the longest axis. After this, you will need to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, adjust again.

If the foundation is strip, then a small discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurately done.

So we designated the dimensions of the bathhouse in accordance with the design data. Further marking is carried out depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Type of foundation	Where is marking used and how is it done?
	Due to its high cost, this type of foundation is done only in cases where it cannot be done without. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the building or a little larger when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bathhouse.
Tape	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.
Columnar	This type of foundation can also often be found. Mainly used for mounting on it wooden buildings. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, markings are carried out according to the number of supports being manufactured.
Screw	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion made on the basis of the fact that it has recently begun to be used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, since the military began to use it long ago. The advantage of installing a foundation on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to perform excavation, so the area will remain clean. In addition, with its help you can build a bathhouse even on a site that has a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make your final decision regarding the choice of foundation type.

Pouring the foundation

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
2. The groundwater level is quite low.
3. In winter the frosts are not very severe.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Don't try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with the simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bathhouse.

• We have the external markings, now we need to complete the internal ones, taking into account that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude beyond the building by 5-10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bathhouse is 3x4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2x4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the stove and at the same time make a foundation for it.
• For convenience, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches in the corners. They need to be aligned in the same plane according to the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

• You need to remove the fertile top layer of soil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as bedding.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of the solid clay layer and under no circumstances stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is within the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontalness with a level.
• Now it’s time for the sand bedding. You need to pour a layer of sand at least 15 cm thick inside the trench, moisten it with water and compact it well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrating rammer, but you can also do it manually, using a heavy block with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully compacted.
• Now it’s the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after the foundation is poured. The finished shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete may move them out of place.

• In order not to stain the boards, and to prevent concrete from leaking out through the cracks, the formwork is covered from the inside with plastic film, which must be secured with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic reinforcement, fastened with knitting wire.

• The manufactured frame should not reach the edges by 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to place pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble when exposed to moisture.
• If any communications will pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them, which will help with sleeves, as done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time so that you can pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be mixed in a concrete mixer, on the basis that you will need 1 bucket of M400 cement, 3 sand, and 5 buckets of crushed stone (or gravel).
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or pinned. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If you are making a foundation for a wooden house, then you need to fix the foundation bolts in the uncured concrete.
• No earlier than a week later the formwork can be removed.

It should be remembered that the concrete has not yet reached its full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bathhouse.

Video: building a foundation for a bathhouse

Wall masonry

When building a bathhouse from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with cement-sand mortar and lay roofing felt on it, folded in half. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is stretched along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: on cement-sand mortar a wall is erected from brick and shell rock, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the lintels above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, securing the foundation bolts in it for subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to begin making the roof.

Construction of a bath frame

The basis of such a bathhouse is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types of finishing materials. Need to choose quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

To make the frame, you will need boards made of well-dried larch, aspen or linden, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a lower frame frame is made from 100×100 mm timber. At the ends of the bars you need to make cuts half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50×100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bathhouse.

• At the next stage, the end trim board is installed, and the floor joists are attached right next to it. A timber of 50×100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut so that a second end trim board can be installed.
• The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes closely between them, then the end trim boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from 50x100 mm timber, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure vapor barrier of a frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as thermal insulation material. They are able to provide high level sealing without disturbing natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in a frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install joists, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be replaced in a few years. Considering that the dacha at the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and cover it with tiles. They stack on it wooden boards, which can be taken out to dry in the barn and safely go home.

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only wooden floors with insulation are acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bathhouse

Roof construction

Above any bathhouse there should be reliable roof, but the options for creating it may be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will easily penetrate into the attic and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to flow onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of roofing type, since it is necessary to take into account technical specifications buildings.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the dacha is located in a steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof should be minimal.
• For small bathhouses and light snow loads, the roof can be made pitched. The same roof is most often made on a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bathhouse roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, and therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a relaxation room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing a wooden and brick bathhouse with clapboard is done almost the same way. First, the sheathing is attached to the wall, and then the lining is attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the lathing.

Exterior finishing is done not only to make the bathhouse beautiful, but also to protect it. To decorate the outside of the bath, you can use the following materials:

• Imitation of timber.
• Siding.
• Lining.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Dye.

All you have to do is choose suitable material and finish the façade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is also the opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and heat evaporates from the bathhouse. It is very hot in such a steam room at the top, and your feet are cold.

In fact, during bathing procedures, the air in the room should be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located below near the boiler, and the exhaust under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to quickly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

This device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When you need to thoroughly ventilate the steam room, the upper ventilation hole (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bathhouse. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it possible to close ventilation holes during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

Canopy and all furniture for country bathhouse you can make it yourself. If you don’t want to make anything else, then there are many offers online for selling everything you need for your garden.

If you really want to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs repair, but you just can’t get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last for a considerable period. The main requirement is not to use furniture made of chipboard, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Scheme

Photo: original baths

The central place of the classic Russian bath is, as is known, the steam room or steam room, the issue of its manufacture requires special consideration. Naturally, the efficiency of the procedures carried out in it, as well as the quality of the entire washing process as a whole, will largely depend on the arrangement of the steam room.

Before you make a steam room with your own hands, you need to read the materials in this article, in which you will find answers to the following questions:

• steam room layout, taking into account the size of the room and the objects located in it;
• reliable insulation of the steam room;
• finishing and decoration of ceilings and walls;
• choosing the type of stove installed in the room and ensuring the necessary efficiency of taking paired procedures.

Project implementation

The main element of the layout of a traditional steam room is, of course, the heating stove (the so-called heater). You can familiarize yourself with all the details of self-manufacturing such a stove in a separate article given in the corresponding section.

In addition, when preparing the layout of the steam room, you will need to consider the following issues:

• procedure for installing entrance doors;
• the need and conditions for decorating small windows in the wall;
• number and location of shelves (shelves).

Regarding the dimensions of the steam room you are equipping, you should note the following. Its typical dimensions must correspond to the generally accepted standard determining the length and width of the steam room (these values ​​are usually 2.5 and 2 meters, respectively); in this case, the height of the steam room is set to 2.2 meters. It is believed that in a room with such dimensions a family of 3-4 people will feel quite comfortable.

Note! Not big sizes heated room will ensure economical consumption of heat generated during the combustion of a given amount of fuel.

Door installation

When installing a door indoors Special attention Care should be taken to minimize heat loss through them when entering and exiting the steam room. To do this, it is enough to provide a high entrance threshold and a low top lintel at the door.

Note! As for the question of using windows in a steam room, their presence in the room you are furnishing is not at all necessary. If they are present, the likelihood of heat leakage zones appearing increases (due to poor-quality sealing of window joints, for example).

The steam room may be provided with artificial lighting created by special lamps with a moisture-proof design.
In the event that you cannot do without windows, you will have to worry about reliable thermal insulation of your chosen window blocks measuring no more than 50x50 cm.

Insulation and decoration of a steam room

This section of the article provides step-by-step instructions for organizing activities for insulating and decorating a steam room.
At the initial stage of work, the walls and ceiling of the steam room are insulated, which involves the following operations:

• a layer of vapor barrier is first laid into a pre-prepared structure made of 50×50 mm embedded bars;
• on top of it are placed slabs of the insulating material you have chosen (mineral wool, for example),
• covered with a layer of special protective foil;
• The joints formed when laying the insulation are glued with a special aluminum tape (adhesive tape).

At the final stage of the work, the surfaces of the walls and ceiling are finished with the type of decorative material you have chosen (lining, for example). The most suitable material for finishing is considered to be lining made from coniferous trees, which ensure the spread of aromatic healing odors throughout the steam room.

Making benches and shelves

The interior design of the steam room should be made taking into account your personal tastes and preferences. It should always be remembered that for the manufacture of shelves and benches it is necessary to use well-dried wood boards that do not have traces of resin secretions (ordinary aspen is best suited for these purposes).

In order to save space, it will be possible to provide for mounting benches and shelves not on the floor, but on the walls of the paired room. In this case, the choice of their installation location should be made taking into account the safe removal of the seats from the steam source (special glow stones placed on the base of the furnace).

The main factor determining the quality of the arrangement of benches and shelves for a steam room in a bathhouse is maximum level the comfort they provide when taking health procedures. That is why the final finishing of the surfaces of these products must be carried out with special care, using for these purposes manual methods wood processing.

Photo

Without a steam room, the bathhouse becomes an ordinary room where people wash. It is steam that has healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives strength and good spirits. At first glance, setting up a steam room is not particularly difficult. This small room has a minimum of architectural delights. However, when arranging it, it is necessary to comply with a number of important rules. Only then will the steam room be able to bring real pleasure to lovers of a real Russian bath.

Project selection

It is necessary to design a steam room before starting construction of a bathhouse. Its dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

The first sketch below shows a small sauna with a steam room, in which the shelves accommodate seating only.

The other two pictures schematically show more spacious rooms in which you can steam while lying down.

1), 10), 11) Clothes hanger, wardrobe.
5), 7) Benches.
2) Rest room.
6) Shelf.
3) Steam room.
8) Doors.
4) Wash room.
9) Oven.

By schematically depicting the location of the stove and shelves in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying mistakes during construction.

Type, power and dimensions of the stove. According to fire safety standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)), the stove in the bathhouse should be located at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected non-flammable materials, then you need to retreat 26 cm from them.

An iron stove has high power, compact dimensions and the ability to quickly heat even a large steam room. However, its surface becomes very hot, and there is a risk of accidental burns in case of careless actions. In view of this. In the steam room, there should be a free distance between the shelves and the iron stove.

An example of installing a metal stove in a steam room

A brick heater does not heat up so quickly and its size is much larger than a metal one. However, it retains heat longer and it is impossible to get seriously burned on it. Therefore, there is no need to locate the oven at a significant distance from the shelves.

When installing an electric heater, it makes sense to make the steam room as small as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

So, when planning a steam room, you should carefully think through everything at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof have been erected, you can begin directly to work on interior design steam rooms

Floor installation

The flooring in the entire bathhouse is done first. The floor level in the steam room should be higher than the level of the clean floor in the wash room.

There are several options for its design.

Wooden floor

The easiest way is to install a wooden floor. To do this, support logs are installed on the foundation.

Planed boards 50 mm thick are screwed onto them at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

It is important that there is at least 50 cm between the floor and the ground level, and that there are openings in the foundation for fresh air.

This will provide good natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will dry evenly after finishing the bath procedures. However, this flooring option should only be used in areas with warm and temperate climates. In northern regions, such ventilation can cause the heat from the steam room to dissipate too quickly.

Video - Floors in a bathhouse on logs with insulation

Concrete floor

A concrete floor in a steam room can last much longer than a wooden one. However, the costs of its arrangement will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally lay a finishing coating on it.

Before starting installation work cement screed in the steam room and washing room, you should dig a pit 10 to 15 cm deep to drain water. Its walls can be secured with cement or tiles. An iron grate is placed on top of it. From the pit, water will flow through the drain pipe into the sewer.

As soon as the water drain is ready, you can begin installing the screed.

The clean floor level in the steam room should be higher than in the washing room. Therefore, before starting work, a mark is made on the walls to which the floor structure will reach. And then they put down the distance from it that is necessary to lay all the layers of the screed.

The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

IllustrationDescription

	the site is carefully leveled, if necessary, the top part of the soil is removed
	pour a 30-40 cm layer of sand and crushed stone, spill it with water, compact it, making a slope towards the drain hole
	pour the first layer of concrete 5 cm thick
	After the screed has dried, strips of waterproofing material (roofing felt, glass insulation) are rolled out over it.
	ON waterproofing material lay insulation 50 mm thick
	install reinforcing metal carcass from masonry mesh
	pour a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick
	level the concrete with a board or rule, not forgetting to do slight slope towards the sewer hole
	lay tiles or gratings from boards

Video - Draining the bathhouse

Vapor barrier and ceiling finishing

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the steam room is of paramount importance, since hot air from the stove rises to the top. Therefore, it is unacceptable to have places on the ceiling through which it could easily go outside.

Ceiling insulation work is carried out in the following sequence.

WorksIllustration

A water vapor barrier is attached to the floor beams. It could be: foil with a density of at least 100 microns; foil penoizol with a thickness of 5 to 10 mm; hydro-vapor barrier membrane “Izospan”, “Megaflex”, etc. For installation use construction stapler and staples with a height of 8 to 12 mm. The tool must be well adjusted to prevent breaks in the protective membrane. The strips are fastened with an overlap of at least 20 cm, the joints between them are carefully taped with aluminum tape. Along the edges, the insulation should extend 15 cm onto the walls of the steam room.
After attaching the hydraulic protection to the floor beams, screw it strictly according to the level. wooden slats 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick. The distance between them should be no more than 70 cm. Before installation, they are treated with an antiseptic composition.
Linings made of linden, birch or aspen are attached to the slats. Finishing material placed perpendicular to the sheathing boards. Installation begins on the opposite side of the door. Fastening is done either with galvanized nails or with clamps.
From the attic side, grooves are made in the floor beams and transverse fasteners for the chimney are inserted into them.
A rectangular opening for the chimney is cut out on the ceiling.
A layer of insulation with a thickness of 150 to 200 mm is laid between the floor beams in the attic.
A wind and vapor barrier membrane is rolled out over the insulation and secured with a furniture stapler.
Then the floor boards are installed in the attic.

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bathhouse are built from foam blocks or using frame technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation. The inside should be a cold-proof thermos that will perfectly retain the heat emanating from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room for a long time.

Before starting work, an opening is cut in the wall to install the stove.

Then a wind and vapor barrier film is attached to the walls.

At the next stage, basalt non-combustible insulation is tightly laid between the bars.

After this, a water vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with galvanized staples.

The following can be used as protective material:

foil with a density from 150 to 200 microns;

foil foamed penoizol;

waterproofing membrane for a bath.

Strips of moisture-resistant material are nailed with staples, overlapping each other by at least 15 cm, and the joints are sealed using special tape.

Then slats 25 mm thick and 30 to 50 mm wide are horizontally attached to the bars using galvanized self-tapping screws at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The sheathing should be installed as level as possible; for this you should use laser level or plumb line. Installation begins with the two outer slats, then a cord is pulled between them. And already focusing on it, they nail down the remaining parts of the sheathing.

At the next stage, the clapboard board is directly attached. To do this, use either ordinary galvanized nails 40-50 mm long, or special clamps.

The principle of fastening clamps into the groove of the board

Finally, even holes are cut in the walls for ventilation. They are masked from above with plugs or flaps. If necessary, install a fan in the supply or exhaust opening.

If the walls in the steam room are made of logs or profiled timber, then they do not require such careful insulation. In this case, it will be enough to attach foil or foil penoizol to them. Then nail the sheathing and install the lining.

Furnace installation

The stove in the steam room can be installed in iron, brick or electric. The location for it should be chosen at the bathhouse design stage. The furnace firebox can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.

Installation procedure in a steam iron stove:

The electric oven is installed on a pre-prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require installation of a chimney.

It is imperative to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.

Brick oven

The brick oven is laid out during the construction of the bathhouse.

Only that part of it that will contain the stones should go into the steam room. It is best to place the firebox in the dressing room or outside.

Video - Secrets of building a bathhouse

Door installation

The door in the steam room is installed last. It should close tightly and not let heat out. Doors made of solid wood or tempered glass are best suited for this purpose.

Installation wooden door consists of the following steps:

a doorway is adjusted under the casing;

The “casing” cannot be screwed to the beam, it must move freely along the grooves, the gaps between it and the wall are carefully caulked;

Another way to install a wooden door is to cut grooves into the opening.

Wooden blocks are installed in them so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And the door frame is already directly attached to them.

Fixing the frame to the rail and hanging the door

Glass doors are attached to special hinges.

Video - Casing under a plastic window in a log house

Video - Okosyachka (part 1)

Video - Okosyachka (part 2)

Video - Okosyachka (part 3)

How to make shelves correctly

The number of shelves in the steam room depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the height of the owners of the bathhouse. IN standard version It is allowed to have three-level shelves, each of which is 35 cm in height. However, it is also possible to have two shelves. In a small steam room, the lower level of the bench can be equipped with a retractable mechanism and can be pulled out as needed.

First you need to choose the shape of the shelves and assemble the frame. It is best to make it from larch. There are quite a lot of options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

Wooden panels are laid on top of the installed frame.

The boards in them should be spaced loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Shields should be made from linden or aspen. Conifers trees are not suitable for this purpose, since under the influence of high temperatures resin is released from them.

Efficient ventilation

An important stage in arranging a steam room is ventilation. In its absence, prolonged stay in the steam room becomes unsafe for human health. And improper installation of air ducts can lead to heat loss and unnecessary fuel costs for proper heating of the room.

You should not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room. This will lead to large heat losses, and hence a decrease in the effectiveness of bath procedures.

The most common are several options for the location of ventilation ducts in the steam room.

Location optionDiagram or illustration

	The oxygen supply comes from the opening, which is located behind the stove; a fan is mounted into it. The distance from the floor is 25 cm. The outflow is carried out naturally through a gateway, which is located on the opposite wall. The lower it is located, the better.

During the actual bathing procedures, the ventilation holes in the walls can be closed with valves. And then open them as needed.

Galvanized or stainless steel pipes. It is not recommended to use plastic structures in the steam room. The pipes must be secured using special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust duct should be slightly larger than the supply duct.

Having decided on the ventilation scheme, you should make holes of the required size in the walls or floor.

Their diameter depends on the area of ​​the ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventilation ducts into them.

The remaining distance between the wall and the pipe must be filled with non-flammable insulation. Attach a protective grille on the street side.

Electricity

At the final stage of arranging the steam room, the electrical wiring is installed. All switches and distribution boxes must be located outside the steam room and shower room.

The wires are laid in corrugation on top of the lining.

In the steam room, they are covered from above with wooden plinths.

Lights in the steam room should be protected by wooden grilles.

Video - Construction of a Russian bath

How to make a steam room in a bathhouse correctly and beautifully

The quality of the steam room directly determines the ease of use of the bathhouse, how safe the bathing procedures will be, as well as the presentability of the steam room, the costs of construction and further maintenance. In this article with photo and video materials we will try to tell you in more detail about how to make a steam room in a bathhouse correctly.

Advantages of building a steam room with your own hands:

1. There is no need to hire third-party specialists or spend additional money on their services, which significantly helps to save money.
2. You will personally control all the work, so you can be completely confident in the effectiveness of its implementation.

In order to build a bathhouse with a steam room with your own hands, you should first arrange the order of work and adhere to existing instructions and rules.

Creating a steam room project

First of all, a project is prepared, at least the simplest one, so that the plan for future work is clear. The main thing in a steam room is the stove, because there are a lot of them, and each of them has its own requirements for the dimensions of the steam room, the type of ventilation system, the installation location of future shelves, and so on.

When deciding on the size when arranging a steam room with your own hands, you should take into account the possible number of people visiting the bathhouse at the same time. This is very important, since it is necessary that they all feel comfortable in the steam room, and that the bath does not stand idle free place, which also requires heating costs. Most often, a steam room is built with dimensions of 2400 × 2000 mm and a height of 2200 mm.

The construction of a steam room does not include the installation of windows, since artificial lighting will be quite sufficient. It is worth considering that for everyone installed window It will be necessary to think through thermal insulation, which entails additional costs. It is allowed to install one blind window no more than 50×50 cm. At the same time, in order to make a steam room properly, you should pay attention to the highest quality double-glazed windows that have maximum efficiency in terms of sound and heat insulation.

Before making a steam room in a bathhouse, consider in the project the right system ventilation. Without normal air circulation, the tree will quickly become unusable due to constant excessive humidity - over time, mold will begin to form, and the microclimate itself will cease to be beneficial for humans.

After completing the creation of the project, it will become clearer how to make a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands, and you can proceed directly to the implementation of your plans. On preparatory stage It is recommended to carry out work on installing thermal insulation in the steam room.

The process of insulating a steam room

Thermal insulation should be considered especially carefully, since otherwise more fuel will have to be spent on heating the bath and maintaining the desired temperature.

At the initial stage, the ceiling is prepared for insulation. It can simply be sheathed with foam boards, temporarily securing them with any available means, and then sheathed with moisture-resistant plywood or other material with similar properties. The insulation is laid between the beams, and the minimum thickness of the slabs should be 10 cm. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the slabs, and the base under the slabs must be covered with plastic film. Read also: “How to insulate a steam room correctly and what materials to use.”

At the next stage, the walls are insulated. First, a frame is made from a square wooden beam 50x50 cm, which is attached to the wall. The pitch is selected so that the insulation sheets can easily fit between the beams. As a rule, 5 cm is considered an acceptable insulation thickness for walls.

Adjacent joints between the plates are taped with metallized tape. Mineral wool can be used as insulation for walls. In this case, a polyethylene film or other moisture-repellent material is also attached under the insulation.

There is no need to insulate floors in steam rooms, but if you still have the desire, you can limit yourself to filling in expanded clay followed by pouring a cement screed. And then lay tiles or install wood flooring.

As a rule, wooden lining is used as interior decoration of the steam room.

First of all, shelves and benches are installed, and only after that they move on to paneling. Coniferous tree species are best suited as a material, because they emit a very pleasant smell and, when heated, can have a healing effect on the body.

The lining is fastened to pre-laid insulation and other materials to protect it from moisture. The planks are installed close to each other, and galvanized screws can be used as fastenings.

Installation of floors in the bathhouse

It is possible to build a bathhouse with a steam room of the highest quality possible if you properly finish the floor. The material used should not be afraid of frequent and sudden changes in both temperature and humidity levels. Aspen is the best type of wood - it is inexpensive and has a pleasant appearance, moreover, it is easy to process and lasts a very long time. It is best to mount benches in a bathhouse to the wall, this way you can save some space.

In addition, there is an alternative way to cover the floor in a bathhouse - using ceramic tiles. This coating makes it possible to make the steam room in the bath easier than ever to use.

First, the base is cleaned and covered with a 15 cm thick layer of a mixture of gravel and sand. Then the backfill is compacted and filled with cement mortar, 5 cm thick, and leveled. Finally, after the mortar has hardened, lay the tiles.

When deciding on a stove among a huge assortment, you can find structures made of brick and metal that can be powered either by electricity or burn solid or liquid fuel. And each variety will have its own pros and cons.

Metal stoves have the following disadvantages:

• they cool down quite quickly after switching off;
• If you touch hot metal, you can get burned, which will require you to provide all safety measures for the steam room when installing it.

The only disadvantage of a brick stove is the need to lay an independent foundation before its installation.

Recently, furnaces powered by electricity have shown excellent results. They do not require a chimney to be installed, and the installation can be done by oneself. However, the operation of electrical appliances in saunas requires a careful approach and adherence to a number of precautionary rules, neglect of which can lead to events that can be disastrous for visitors to the steam room.

Soapstone stoves deserve special attention. These are the latest units, which are notable for their ability to provide gradual and even heating of the steam room. They emit a pleasant and soft warmth comparable to that produced by the sun.

It is preferable to place the stove in the corner closest to the door. It is considered the safest, and, moreover, saves free space.

Installing a steam room door

At the final stage of construction of the steam room, it will be necessary to install the door. In this process, it is worth considering that the door frame should be lower than usual, and the threshold should be higher than is customary in houses. This approach makes it possible to reduce the amount of heat lost through the door and also prevent drafts from forming. The normal height of the threshold is 30 centimeters.

The door is installed in such a way that people who enter it cannot accidentally get burned by the heated material. Wood conducts heat quite well - in this regard, it is better to cover both sides of the door with foil and special insulation. You can hide these protective materials, for example, with clapboard, which is not afraid of moisture.

To avoid such nuances and not resort to additional work, it is better to purchase and install glass doors. They look impeccable in appearance and will be resistant to any conditions that may arise in the bathhouse.

We hope that everyone who has read the article now knows how to make a steam room in a bathhouse with their own hands. The main thing is to give maximum attention and effort to the arrangement of the bathhouse, and save money only in special cases. As a result, you will build a really high-quality, beautiful, reliable and at the same time safe steam room that can work for many years, delighting you with its warmth.

Insulating a steam room in a bathhouse: step-by-step instructions

Thermal insulation of the steam room is a must in any bathhouse, regardless of the material it is made of. It is best to devote time to this matter at the construction stage, although this can also be done in a finished bathhouse. You will learn how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands from our article. The steam room is the most important room of the bathhouse. It should not be cold, and such a statement can hardly be disputed. Every zealous bathhouse owner tries to minimize any heat losses in its steam room, since extra heating costs, problems with heating the room, maintaining heat in it, and the discomfort of bathing procedures usually do not please anyone. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the steam room, it is necessary to go through several stages of work to insulate its walls, floor and ceiling.

Features of reducing heat loss in the steam room

To avoid unnecessary costs for lighting the stove and retaining heat in a steam room, you need to consider several simple rules bath layouts:

• The area of ​​the building is determined depending on the number of visitors simultaneously present in it and the number of its rooms - steam room, locker room and others. The size of the steam room is usually 4-6 m2.
• The locker room location is planned to be closer to front door baths This will keep cold air from entering the steam room.
• To preserve heat, the entrance from the steam room to the adjacent room can be designed in the form of a vestibule.
• The doorway for the steam room is made with a high threshold and a width of no more than 0.7 m.
• The sauna stove is located closer to the exit.
• To reduce heat loss through the window, the latter is made of double-glazed window and is placed at a height of 1 m from the floor of the steam room.

Thermal insulation materials for steam room insulation

Natural raw materials and artificial products are used as thermal insulation and sealing materials for the steam room.
Natural raw materials include: tow, which is used to fill cracks, sphagnum, which acts as an inter-crown sealant, construction frame moss - wall insulation. These materials are environmentally friendly and do a good job of protecting rooms from heat loss. However, they are subject to rapid rotting and are a treat for insects. For this reason, it is recommended to treat natural insulation with antiseptics, and their use is undesirable for steam rooms.
Artificial materials for insulation include expanded clay and polystyrene foam boards, basalt wool and ordinary polystyrene foam. All of them are characterized by moisture resistance, biological safety, long-term operation and a high degree of thermal insulation. Expanded clay slabs are used to insulate the floor of steam rooms, polystyrene foam - for their attic floors, and basalt wool - for walls and ceilings.
Foil insulation is currently used to insulate and waterproof the walls and ceiling of the steam room. It is a roll basalt wool with a layer of aluminum foil glued onto it. When using this material, the process of insulating structures is greatly simplified - the foil protects the insulation from moisture and promotes the reflection of heat from the enclosing structures into the room.

Insulating the ceiling of a steam room in a bathhouse

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room we will use modern method, which involves the use of foil material as a vapor barrier layer.
The work consists of five stages:

1. Insulation is attached to the ceiling beams using a stapler, with a layer of aluminum foil facing the inside of the room, which simultaneously serves as a heat-reflecting screen. This will reduce the cost of heating and maintaining the heat of the steam room by 2-3 times. The joints of the overlapping insulator panels are glued with aluminum tape. Other vapor barrier materials are also used for baths, but they are not as effective.
2. The ceiling sheathing supporting the insulation is secured with screws across the ceiling beams. Lathing is necessary for installing the outer ceiling cladding. On the inside of the ceiling of the room, an air heat-reflecting gap is left between the future cladding and the foil insulation sheets.
3. The selected insulation is installed from the side attic space between ceiling beams. It should be tight, without the slightest gaps.
4. A polyethylene film is laid and secured over the insulation to protect it from moisture and dust from the street. To avoid mechanical damage to the multilayer thermal insulation in the attic, a rough plank floor is laid over the beams.
5. On last stage works, the ceiling of the steam room is sheathed along the lathing with wooden clapboard. The material for it can be hardwood - linden, aspen, etc. What material to choose is up to you.

When insulating a steam room in a frame bath, similar thermal insulation of the ceiling is necessary, and for log house- optional. There are enough boards 6 cm thick, fixed to the ceiling beams, and a layer of mineral wool 15 cm thick.

Thermal insulation of steam room walls in a bathhouse

Before internal insulation of the walls in the steam room, it is necessary to seal all joints and gaps in them using sealant. After the composition has dried, thermal insulation can begin. Its process is similar to ceiling insulation, but has some nuances. The walls are insulated horizontally along the perimeter of the steam room, moving from the top to the floor. Moreover, the strip of foil overlaps the slope left when insulating the ceiling. The insulated wall of the steam room must have three layers of protection: waterproofing, thermal insulation and a vapor barrier membrane.
The operating procedure is as follows:

• To eliminate the possibility of vapor condensation forming on the walls, the enclosing structures of the steam room are covered with a waterproofing film.
• The thermal insulation layer of mineral wool is laid in a timber sheathing, which is pressed onto the wall using waterproofing and an intermediate layer of clean paper.
• The vapor barrier layer protects the insulation from exposure to moist air. For this purpose, a foil membrane is used, which is attached over the insulation to the sheathing using a stapler. The overlapping joints of her canvases are taped with metal tape.
• At the last stage, a lining made of hardwood is attached over the membrane to the wooden frame of the wall.

Unlike insulating a steam room in a brick bathhouse, a wooden building will require less heat-insulating materials, since the wood itself has similar properties.
Important! Before the outer cladding of the walls, thin slats need to be stuffed onto the sheathing to create an air gap, which, together with the foil membrane, will create a heat-reflecting effect.

Insulating the floor of a steam room in a bathhouse

Concrete floors are stronger and more durable than wooden ones, as they are not afraid of moisture. Tiles laid on a screed are very easy to care for. But tile is a cold material. Wooden floors are much more suitable for a steam room. To reduce heat losses, both types of floors require insulation.

Insulation of a wooden floor in a steam room

Structurally, a wooden floor has differences from a concrete floor, but their thermal insulation has the same principle. The whole system looks like this: foundation, floor beams, logs laid on beams, layer vapor barrier material, subfloor, insulation, waterproofing layer, finished floor.
After installing the logs and laying the vapor barrier material, the space between the floor beams is filled with insulation. They can be sand, slag, expanded clay, fiberglass or mineral wool mats and polystyrene foam. Waterproofing and a finished floor are laid on top of the insulation.

Thermal insulation of a concrete floor in a steam room

The scheme of a concrete insulated floor in a steam room is as follows: foundation, concrete floor, waterproofing layer, insulation, concrete screed, ceramic tiles or wooden floor.
You can see that such a floor is similar to a kind of “sandwich”, consisting of a pair of layers of concrete and insulation laid between them. The floor of a bathhouse built on a columnar foundation is insulated in the same way. The difference here is that the monolithic base is replaced by a reinforced concrete slab laid on a frame made of metal channel.
The work of insulating the floor in a steam room consists of several stages:

1. Laying the base of the lower layer of the floor is carried out from a concrete mixture having a crushed stone fraction of 20-35 mm. The thickness of the concrete pad is 120-150 mm.
2. Waterproofing is installed after the concrete has polymerized. The materials for it can be roofing felt, roofing felt and bitumen mastics. Before applying the latter, the base is painted with a special primer. The waterproofing is laid on the concrete surface after it has been treated with two or three layers of bituminous material.
3. For installation of insulation, mineral wool, perlite, boiler slag with a layer of 250-300 mm, polystyrene foam, expanded clay with a layer of 100-150 mm, etc. are used.
4. The second layer of the floor is laid on heat-insulating material. The concrete of this layer uses a finer fraction of crushed stone.

The finished floor can be covered with a platform made of wood. After completing the bath procedures, it is removed, washed and dried.
How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse - watch the video:

As you have seen, insulating a steam room is easy to do yourself. Use your patience and hard work, and the result will definitely come! Author: editors of TutKnow.ru

How to make floors in a steam bath

When your own bathhouse is being built or overhauled, the floors in the steam room require special attention.
Floors must be durable, heat-resistant and little susceptible to moisture. Otherwise, they will quickly become unusable and will have to be completely replaced.

Necessary floor properties in a steam room

Independent installation of the floor in a steam bath requires compliance with basic rules. According to standard technological characteristics, floors in bathhouses, steam rooms and sinks must have the following properties:

• trouble-free drainage of used water;
• ability to maintain temperature for a long time;
• cleaning without much effort and the use of expensive household chemicals.

On a note! It is very important that the floors in the steam room do not create discomfort for vacationers.

Cold and slippery surfaces on which you walk with bare feet will spoil all the pleasure of bathing procedures. In addition, it is unsafe for health. Therefore, you need to carefully select the material and properly arrange the floors in the steam bath; what materials are best to use, how to carry out all the necessary work, how to care for the finished floor in order to increase its service life - these and some other important issues will be covered in the proposed material.

What materials are needed

When planning to make floors in a bathhouse in a steam room with your own hands, you need to carefully study the installation technology and prepare everything you need. Regardless of the floor design and the planned finishing coating, you will first need to carry out preparatory work. To carry them out you will need the following materials:

• components of concrete screed - cement, sand, gravel;
• reinforcing mesh;
• rolled waterproofing material - roofing felt and/or polyethylene;
• insulation;
• wooden beam with a section of 30 by 50 mm, 70 by 100 mm and/or 50 by 80 mm, depending on the floor design and the planned finishing coating;
• board with tongue and groove with a tongue-and-groove locking connection - for non-leaking floors;
• flat board - for leaking floors;
• discharge pipes for waste water;
• siphon and grate for arranging a drain;
• antiseptic and other solutions for pre-treatment of wood;
• brick;
• pipes made of asbestos concrete composition.

To work you need to prepare the following tools and devices:

• tank for mixing the solution;
• construction mixer;
• scales and/or measuring container;
• wire cutters;
• tape measure, plumb line, level;
• hammer;
• technical knife;
• plane;
• grinder;
• sledgehammer;
• hammer drill or electric drill;
• hard brush.

Preparing the base for the steam room floor

When a decision has been made on what kind of flooring is planned for the steam bath, installation of the base for it begins. In this case, it is necessary to remember that you need to correctly calculate the angle of inclination of the surface to drain the water falling on the floor. You can find ready-made tables and others on the Internet. calculation materials for proper production of the floor structure.

After designing and manufacturing the base, it is necessary to install a pipe to drain waste water and select the location of the drain hole. It can be placed in the center of the room or against the wall. When placing the drain hole in the corner of the steam room, a special groove is mounted along the wall.

The most popular materials for flooring are concrete or boards. They can be used individually or in combined version. If you are designing a lightweight frame bath, the floor in the steam room can be made of tongue-and-groove boards or beams.

On a note! A combined floor made of wood and concrete is easier to install; it is especially strong, comfortable and durable.

How to make a concrete floor in a steam room

At the stage of arranging the foundation, it is necessary to install a drain pipe for waste water into it at an angle. A pit is built for the first end. The second end is passed through side wall and is brought to a septic tank, cesspool or sewer system.

Pit for drain pipe lined with brick or filled with concrete. For the latter option, it is necessary to pre-install the formwork. It is built from scrap materials. You can use used, but still quite strong old boards or boards.

When the installation is completed, the outside of the pit is filled with soil to about 2/3 of the height. The pipe must be completely filled. The soil needs to be leveled and compacted.

Next, a gravel cushion is laid out on a slope from the pit to the wall. Here the layer of bulk material must be made 2 times thicker. The pillow needs to be leveled and placed on top of it reinforcing mesh to maintain the slope angle.

Now you need to insulate the floor in the bathhouse in the steam room. To do this, a rigid insulation flooring is laid on top of the mesh. You can use sheets of extruded polystyrene foam. Before pouring the final concrete layer, reinforcing mesh is placed on the sheets and a roll of waterproofing is spread.

In another option, a rough concrete screed with insulating additives is poured. For example, expanded polystyrene crumbs. The required thickness of the screed is from 3 to 5 cm. After the concrete has dried technologically, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it.

The final screed is poured strictly along the beacons to a thickness of at least 3 cm. For it, it is advisable to use a ready-made mortar or building mixture with the addition of microfiber. This will increase the moisture resistance and strength of the material.

The finished screed can be coated to protect it from moisture liquid glass or liquid rubber. Another option is ceramic tiles. In this case, all seams must be treated with special compounds for tightness.

The drain hole is protected by a removable filter grid. This will protect against debris and random objects. Subsequently, the filter will need to be periodically removed for thorough cleaning.

The finished floor is made from boards pre-treated with special compounds. They are laid, leaving technological gaps for free drainage of used water.

On a note! It is better to make the board covering removable. This will allow you to freely remove it and reinstall it after drying, cleaning and minor repairs.

Accidentally damaged elements will not be difficult to replace.

The floor in the steam room is insulated from the outside

To make an insulated floor in a steam bath, you first need to lay a cushion of compacted soil. This will maintain the integrity of the foundation. The drainage layer on top of the clay is poured from a mixture of sand and fine-grained bulk material - gravel, crushed stone, pebbles.

In the center is formed drain hole for waste water. It must be deepened and filled with drainage mixture.

Logs for wooden floors are made from asbestos concrete pipes. With their help, free air circulation in the underground space is also ensured. The finishing coating is made of boards laid in increments of 5 to 7 mm to freely remove used water.

Floor without rough concrete screed

A floor of this design is laid directly on a strip or columnar foundation. The free space between the elements of the base of the building is filled with a solution of rough concrete. Instead, you can use a compacted soil pad.

It is necessary to build a tray in the center of the steam room, connecting it to the sewer pipe. This will make it easier for waste water to drain away. To make a tray, you can use boards or plastic. The base for it is one of the supporting elements of the foundation. A waterproofing material must be laid under the tray.

The final floor covering is made of tightly laid boards. The slope created during the installation of the floor ensures that waste water flows directly into the tray and then into the sewer pipe.

Horizontal floor in the steam room

In this option, the finished floor in a steam room in a wooden bath is laid horizontally. The drainage structure is installed in the free space between the rough screed and the finishing coating.

This design allows you to free the floors in the bathhouse, steam room and sink from used water. To do this, a drain hole is installed under the floor in the washing room.

The formation of the floor pie begins with laying the subfloor from the board. Then the logs are laid. A cushion of loose material is poured into the free space between them. In this case, it is necessary to form a funnel for the passage of water. It is placed under the future drain hole. A drain pipe is connected to the funnel from below.

Instead of a pillow, you can make a rough screed of concrete, to which insulation is added. In this case, the logs must be treated with an antiseptic and waterproofed.

How to insulate a wooden floor in a steam room

The installation of an insulated floor without a rough concrete screed begins during the construction of the foundation. For a non-leakage floor, sewer pipes must be installed at this stage.

The upper level of the subfloor must be raised above the soil level by 40-60 cm. This is ensured by the installation of brick columns and/or walls. Logs (floor beams) are laid on them.

The next stage is waterproofing. This work is carried out after the walls are completely erected. First you need to compact the soil tightly in the free space of the foundation. After this, a roll waterproofing material is laid. It is best to use roofing felt.

Now you can lay the joists and cross bars for the subfloor. They have rough board flooring. A rolled vapor barrier is spread on top of it.

Next, mats or slabs of insulating material are laid - mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, etc. On top of the insulation is a waterproofing sheet. If the material is laid in pieces, it is necessary to make an overlap 20 cm wide. All technological seams are protected with moisture-resistant tape.

The drain pipe is carefully guided through all layers of the floor pie and raised above the upper edge of the insulation. A lath of boards at least 15 cm thick is made around it.

When laying the plank covering, its level along the walls must be raised. For this, a beam with a thickness of 3 to 5 cm is used. This will form the necessary slope in the shape of a funnel. This will direct the water to the drain hole. It is better to place it in the center of the steam room.

Instead of a drain hole, you can use a special tray installed along the wall or in the center of the steam room. In the first case, the floor is raised against the opposite wall so that water flows freely to the tray. In the second case, the floorboards are raised along two walls located parallel to the tray.

Finished floor installation

A finishing coating can be laid on the finished base. The boards are pre-treated with special compounds to protect against microorganisms and mold.

The covering is laid tightly. It is better to use tongue-and-groove boards with a tongue-and-groove joint. As a result, a smooth, even surface is formed without gaps, cracks, etc. Skirting boards are installed along the walls. On top of the drainage hole there is a removable sheathing. Important! All technological gaps around the drain must be filled with sealant and additionally treated with a compound to increase moisture resistance.

Disposal of used water

If there is no sewer line to dispose of waste water, it is necessary to construct a drainage well, drainage ditch or pit. For a drainage well you need to dig a hole. Its depth should be twice the level of soil freezing in the coldest season. For a small family bathhouse, a drainage well measuring 90 by 90 or 100 by 100 cm will be sufficient.

At the bottom of the well you need to pour a cushion of loose material about 0.5 meters thick. You can use expanded clay, crushed stone, broken brick or fine gravel. Input for drainage pipe settles down 20-30 cm below ground level.

Installing a floor in a steam frame bathhouse or a bathhouse of another design requires special attention, accuracy and careful adherence to all technologies. Learn more about how to make floors in a steam bath and which ones are better in the video offered for viewing.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates rooms that are so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made from bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of one material or another depends, first of all, on what the bathhouse itself is built from. If it is a log house or frame construction, then it is better to use wood so as not to violate the overall concept, and for a brick bathhouse, brick is more suitable.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type heating device located in the steam room. If we are talking about a traditional brick oven, then it itself is a partition. In this case, you just need to add it until a full wall is formed. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be either frame or made of ordinary boards.

The design described below is wooden frame, lined with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Design featuresPhoto

The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm and the width – 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after the work is completed, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be constructed both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), or directly during installation, by constructing formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be covered with a deep primer and concrete contact (for example, produced by the Knauf company).
The base will be attached to the curb using anchors (1.6 cm). The outermost posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hexagonal screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the posts themselves be oval and longitudinal - this way the frame will not be an obstacle to the settlement of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, expansion or settlement of the log house when exposed to atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from floor to ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to standard sizes insulation slabs. The cotton wool should be covered on both sides with plastic film and secured with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be secured with clamps to a sheathing made of 2.5x5 cm planks. The sheathing itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed to the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the sheathing is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and secured only to the vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First, you need to install the skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are covered with platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband at the top of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it moves with it without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To “hide” the screw heads, stepped holes should be made in advance in appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. In the opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 3. The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ way.

Step 4. After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1. The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Step 2. The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 4. An opening is made for the door frame - vertical posts are installed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the dimensions of the frame.

Step 5. Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1. Mineral wool mats must be placed in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Step 2. A plastic film is attached to it on both sides of the frame (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3. The sheathing is installed at intervals of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking the vertical/horizontal position and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be blown out polyurethane foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2. Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be done both after installation of the lining and before it. It is important that the joint between the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with extreme precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Cladding

Installation of the lining starts from the corner and is carried out using the “tenon and groove” technology. This means that the tenon of each subsequent sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the sheathing is done using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without heads (to avoid accidental burns) or with ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closing with pins.

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1. For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2. The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4. The planks installed at the top of the structure will serve only a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

The described option is suitable for a bathhouse that has already been settled and stood for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case the dimensions of the log house itself change. If complete settlement has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Ordinary boards can be used as cladding. Both they and the lining should be made only of hardwood, because... coniferous wood at high temperature releases resin. We also note that all beams in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

The partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use ½-brick spoon masonry (or, alternatively, a whole brick). Such a structure will weigh quite a lot, so to lighten it, you can use hollow bricks.

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. The plank covering is removed from the floor all the way to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Next, the workplace is equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

• sieve;
• Sander;
• shovel;
• mixing tank.

Step 1. First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3. Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

• level;
• pick;
• trowel;
• plumb line;
• rule.

Step, No. DescriptionIllustration

Step 1.	The string is stretched - it will serve as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, and the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a little for the solution to set.
Step 2.	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3.	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled with twine, and excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4.	If you plan to have a doorway (and most partitions have one), then it needs to be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal/verticality and, if necessary, its position is adjusted.
Step 5.	The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition to it or to wooden walls, metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; You can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6.	At the end of laying row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts using a pick. The second row begins with one of these halves. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! Bandaging the masonry is a prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

1. Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
2. The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick

Foam blocks (made from aerated or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, despite their low weight (compared to brick), they are large in size, which means that the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned to be installed, but in most cases, products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The masonry procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Stage one. Marking

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markings, the first row of blocks is laid out “dry”, and if necessary, trimming is done. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a stone saw. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. Adhesive composition applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition meets the main walls, it is tied with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, and reinforcement with glue is inserted there to a depth of at least 50 mm. You can make recesses in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out from the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plastering, you can use the same adhesive solution with which the masonry was done. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. After plastering is completed, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on a wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

1. When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
3. It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
4. If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
5. The blocks of each new row must be offset to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
6. It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks