It’s not a problem to buy store-bought wood wax, but the price is steep, and most importantly, you’re not 100% sure that you’re getting a natural product. People are now drawn to everything natural, so I have collected 5 proven compositions that you can prepare with your own hands. Here you will find wax and oil for wood, both for outdoor use and for interior work, plus compositions for wooden utensils.
It’s quite possible to make oil wax for wood with your own hands.
Wax mixtures
Impregnation of wood with wax pure form this is the first thing that comes to mind home handyman. The instructions themselves are extremely simple and look something like this:
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Preparation.
We will be processing a kitchen knife stand. · Natural beeswax is used as the main composition (it is better to buy it on the market from beekeepers or honey merchants); · We will apply with a brush with natural bristles; · For warming up, it is advisable to have construction hair dryer, but you can get by with household ones; · From the dishes you will need a saucepan and a jar for wax. |
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Warming up the wax.
Natural beeswax melts at a temperature of 62 - 70ºС, but it must be melted in a water bath, otherwise it will darken (burn). · Pour water into a saucepan and place it on the stove; · Place some kind of stand or just a rag on the bottom of the pan; · Place wax in a jar, immerse the jar in a saucepan and wait until the wax melts. |
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In order for the heated, liquid wax for wood to be well absorbed into this very wood, the workpiece also needs to be heated. Easiest to warm up wooden blank You can do this in the oven while the wax is melting. Then take a brush and “paint” the workpiece with wax. |
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It is not realistic to apply wax evenly with a brush; as the composition cools, the thickness of the layer will increase, so after application, excess wax must be scraped off the workpiece. For work, you can take a plastic card; it is not advisable to use a knife, as you can scratch the surface. |
Remember the rule common to all recipes: hard wax is never used for cosmetic treatment, much less wood impregnation! The composition should be liquid or paste-like, but not solid.
The above method is good, but it has a number of serious disadvantages:
- The wax hardens quickly and if you have to cover something bulky, for example, furniture, the wax will need to be constantly heated, plus a lot of hassle with cleaning the workpiece after application;
- No matter how you try to rub the workpiece with a rag or felt, you will never achieve shine; the surface will remain matte;
- If you don’t take care of a waxed item, it will become covered with dust and this dust will become ingrained. To restore its original appearance, you will have to repeat the entire cycle again, that is: sand it with sandpaper, cover it with hot wax and rub it.
To call the procedure outlined above a recipe is somehow hard to come by; it’s more of an application technology, I talked about it so that you have an idea of the basics, and now we move on to specific recipes.
Recipe No. 1. Designed for processing furniture
For furniture, the problem of ingrained dust is relevant, no matter how you wipe your furniture, but over time, a coating will still appear on clean wax. To avoid this problem and at the same time not lose in naturalness and quality, our wise people came up with the idea of mixing hot wax with rosin.
Rosin acts as a crystallizer and promotes the formation of a durable film on the surface, while the wood will breathe. Turpentine is added as a solvent; it will prevent the mixture from hardening quickly and you will have time to easily treat the surface.
The composition is prepared in a water bath, the sequence of actions is approximately as follows:
- First to warm up liquid state beeswax;
- When about half the volume of wax has melted, you can add rosin, and it is advisable to crush the rosin;
- After the wax and rosin are completely dissolved, turpentine is added to the composition and the whole thing is thoroughly mixed.
The furniture processing technology is slightly different from the option described above.
- IN in this case after application ready-made composition you leave the item alone for 3 hours;
- Next, take a hair dryer and heat the surface, wipe off the excess mixture from it and again let the workpiece cool for another hour;
- At the third stage, with light heating, actively polish the workpiece, mirror shine you won’t achieve it, but you will undoubtedly get a noble shimmer.
Wax with rosin and pure wax for wooden floors or walls can theoretically be used, but oil wax is better suited here, which I will talk about a little later, in the corresponding chapter of this article.
Recipe No. 2. Inexpensive exterior decoration
Natural beeswax is very expensive to use for exterior work, plus there is no particular need for a 100% natural impregnation on the outside of a building. Instead of wax, it will be much cheaper to take regular white or some other paraffin.
Ideally, instead of gasoline, it is better to use purified acetone; it, of course, is more expensive, but the smell disappears much faster. It is also better to take gasoline as pure as possible.
And don’t forget - both acetone and gasoline are flammable liquids. It is generally better to cook large volumes in the air, otherwise indoors vapors in high concentrations can explode from any spark.
Wax mixtures with added oil
Wood impregnation is done with the addition of oil. Such compositions are good from all sides.
- The oil composition allows the impregnation to penetrate much deeper into the wood;
- All oil mixtures, after hardening, remain either liquid or turn into a paste, which means they are always ready for re-application without heating;
- Oil gives the wood additional shine and a beautiful sheen.
Recipe No. 3. Universal composition
Theoretically, this mixture can be used to treat any wood, from walls and floors to dishes, but many are afraid of the presence of turpentine and rosin there.
In this regard, it should be noted that turpentine is a volatile substance and it completely evaporates, and rosin, firstly, is harmless to humans and secondly, it is only 5% of the total mass.
Flaxseed oil is almost ideal for wood, but, nevertheless, this is not the only option; it can be replaced with olive oil and even sunflower oil. The only thing I wouldn't recommend doing is pouring it there machine oil, you won’t be able to remove the smell with anything later.
Wood impregnation linseed oil in its pure form it is also practiced, but on large objects the oil must be generously applied 3 to 5 times at intervals of a day, plus after the first time the surface is sanded with fine sandpaper to remove the lint.
It is much easier to saturate dishes with clean oil, plus here the wood can also be tinted. To explain it in a nutshell, oil is poured into a container and dishes or crafts are thrown into it.
You can not only soak dishes with oil, but also tint them.
If the wood just needs to be soaked in oil, then all this is brought to a boil and after 5 - 7 minutes the products are removed. To tint, the pieces will have to be deep-fried, like potatoes. The entire process is shown in detail in the video in this article.
Recipe No. 4. Add propolis
Propolis is also a completely natural product, which is obtained as a result of the vital activity of bees; moreover, propolis is considered medicinal and is even included in some medications.
Treatment with propolis mixtures is not only environmentally friendly, but also therapeutic.
The technology is the same as in the previous versions: melt, apply 2 times and polish. Perhaps the only disadvantage of the recipe is that this mixture will be much more expensive than the others, because propolis is not cheap, so only dishes are usually impregnated with this composition.
Recipe No. 5. Add lard
For those who don’t know, lard is rendered pork fat or lard. Externally, the results of processing with a mixture with propolis and a mixture with lard are no different, but lard costs a penny, so the recipe is much cheaper.
Lard can be a successful replacement for propolis.
As you probably already understood, step-by-step instruction does not change: heat in a water bath, mix well and apply the composition to the product at least 2 times, followed by polishing.
Colored wax for woodIt’s more difficult to do at home; you can make a mistake in the proportions and not guess the tone. It is easier for you to first tint the wood, for example, with a solution of potassium permanganate, and then treat it with one of the compounds listed above.
Conclusion
I have listed only the most common compositions, but there are many more of them, and if you know more recipes on how to prepare wax for wood, welcome in the comments, it will be useful to everyone.
Soak up wooden dishes you can do it yourself at home.
Any wood requires protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture damage, mold and other negative influences of the environment. For such protection, wood oil-wax is used. Waxing is considered effective the old way cover solid wood structures.
Today, a variety of such compositions are offered for sale. Ready-made ingredients are prepared and additives of inorganic origin, oils, and beeswax are added. The solution is applied directly after the package has been opened.
Upon completion of application, the wood changes, acquiring a velvety tone and smoothness. Waxing qualitatively protects the surface from moisture. Now this composition can be purchased in any shade.
Shades
Wax for wood processing is offered by manufacturers in a variety of colors. Different shades can be combined if you need to get a certain shade. That is why light solutions can be obtained from dark solutions. To do this, they are diluted with colorless wax.
The varnish applied to the coating will make the surface much thicker and change the shade of the coating. To prevent wood deformation, white alcohol is added to the wax.
Application
As a building material, wood has various advantages, and when treated with special wax it can last for a long time. If you need to coat wood that already has a coating, then it is important to prepare the surface before waxing.
First of all, the existing layer should be removed with a solvent. Varnish inclusions that are not removed with a solvent are removed with a blade or a knife. After cleaning, you need to sand the surface and apply pre-prepared wax. Before applying it, it is important to dry the board thoroughly and also clean it with sandpaper.
Wax contains a huge amount of solid particles, so applying several layers is quite enough. In addition, the more solid particles in the material, the less the composition will need to be processed.
Drying procedure
The wax takes quite a long time to dry. It is desirable that the process occurs at night when room temperature. To level out the dried coating as much as possible, a special wood trowel in the form of a rounded plank is used.
Final processing stage
At the final stage, to give the surface a beautiful shine, it must be polished with a special brush. Best choice will become a rotating tool, fixed in a shaft chuck, with a drill drive or electric drill.
When processing this type of wax for interior wood work, the surface must be slightly warmed up so that the product will acquire a beautiful gloss.
Kinds
Wax intended for wood processing can be liquid, soft, or hard. Soft is used when it is necessary to update the array, give it an attractive appearance, eliminate minor defects in the form of scratches, remove chips and dents.
Hard wax is also used for restoration purposes, but it gives a better effect when it is necessary to get rid of imperfections on the wood. Best qualities This wax is achieved due to its high degree of strength and increased resistance to mechanical influences.
The wax has a liquid consistency and contains additives of synthetic origin, due to which the desired liquid composition is achieved.
The advantage of this type is the ease of application with a brush, penetrating even the smallest cracks.
Various modern manufacturers They offer wax for treating wood in the form of oily, pasty, and creamy formulations, which differ in consistency, application method, and the nature of the existing damage.
Processing nuances
Once you have decided which wax is best for wood, you can begin to apply it, after which a slight yellow tint. This is what is called waxing, that is, an ancient method of processing products made from solid wood.
The texture of the wood becomes original, the board not only acquires an interesting natural tone, but also exudes a pleasant natural aroma.
In process of treatment floor surface wax for wood, as in the photo, the components of hard varieties contain chemistry, for this reason they are heated before use. Products with earth tones are now on sale.
This type of composition is applied with extreme caution, because the possibility of obtaining an uneven layer that is practically impossible to correct is not excluded, and the difference in shade will be too noticeable. To completely change the shade of the coating, it is not recommended to use earthen coloring product, saturating the array not with oil, but with stain.
Photo of wax for wood
In Izhevsk, Russia, they developed a home impregnation made from natural ingredients: beeswax, propolis and turpentine. This wax can be used to treat both wooden and clay surfaces, especially when it comes to.
During construction natural home a lot of attention is paid to environmental protection of materials and their biopositive impact on humans. So that they do not contain unnatural chemical substances and do not cause allergies.
Patchwork wax does not change the natural color of wood or clay, giving it a noble depth. Creates a coating that is aesthetically pleasing to the eye and touch and does not require additional processing. Coating with Patchwork Wax does not require frequent renewal. When used indoors, this impregnation lasts up to 10 years. 
A special feature of patchwork wax is the ability of gum turpentine to penetrate deeply into the surface. When applying impregnation to dry wood, gum turpentine seems to draw wax and propolis into the pores of the wood by 1 - 1.5 mm. There is no stronger preservative in nature than propolis. This is a natural antibiotic, completely harmless and even beneficial for humans and destructive for fungi and other microorganisms.
“We offer an eco-composition that has no expiration date and can be stored for at least 50 years at any temperature,” says Alexey Golovkov. “The wax is made using old recipe and only from natural ingredients: wax - Far Eastern, turpentine - from Siberian cedar, propolis - from the Volga. 
Eco-exhibition Ark 2015 in Yekaterinburg revealed great interest in our product among people who strive for a healthy, conscious lifestyle.”
Attention! If you wish
Treating any wood with natural or artificial wax is used to protect the surface of the product from mold, rot, damage and insects. With the help of wax, wood can not only be protected from rotting, but also its texture can be highlighted.
Any wood needs protection from the effects of ultraviolet radiation and chemical destruction. As protective compounds use impregnations based on paints and varnishes, as well as oil bases. Wax is a reliable means of protecting wood from moisture.
Waxing is an old thing. effective way cover by wooden structures. There are many similar formulations on the market today. The finished components are made up by adding:
- beeswax;
- inorganic additives;
- oils
The solution can be used immediately after opening the jar. After application, the board is transformed, becoming smooth with a velvety tint. Waxing reliably protects wood from the penetration of harmful moisture, and this method is suitable for processing any type of wood. Today you can buy this composition in any color.
Technological process
Wood quality building material has many positive qualities, and waxed will last longer. If you plan to coat a material that already has some kind of coating on it with this composition, then you must first prepare the surface before waxing.
First of all, remove all old layers from the surface of the material. Varnish coating can be removed with a solvent, which is applied to the product several times until the natural board is completely exposed.
Residues are removed using warm water and abrasives. All minor inclusions of varnish that were not removed by the solvent are removed mechanically- with a knife or blade. The cleaned surface must be sanded for better adhesion of the impregnation before applying wax. Before applying wax, the surface must be thoroughly dried and sanded.
Smooth and smooth surface tree indicates that you did everything right. Treatment with wax composition wooden products, antique furniture is in a great way protection from damage. You can safely cover unpainted wooden surfaces with it, as well as apply several layers on top of the varnish layer.
Processing wood with ready-made wax compounds
Many types of wax compositions contain soft beeswax diluted with turpentine. Pastes are sold in tins and are a type of polishing material. They are usually applied with a special swab, but you can also use a thick brush or steel wool for washing dishes. Paste wax is an excellent finishing component that can be applied to other finishes after impregnation with oil.
Liquid wax is used when treating large surfaces, such as solid panels, and is applied with a brush. Floor compositions have a transparent mastic base and are used in difficult operating conditions.
Colored wax products are mainly dark colors and are used for restoration work. Their purpose is to hide from view minor scratches. Usually wax compositions are found in white or yellow color- like oil, leaving no tint on the surface.
Used for finishing oak brown shades impregnated or black, designed to enhance the naturalness when the board shows its texture.
In order to restore the color of cedar or pine, golden impregnations are used, and to give freshness to mahogany, red mastics are chosen. If you superimpose one composition on another, you can achieve a smooth transition of tones. Chairs and tables, items in frequent contact with clothing are not coated with dyes, oils, or wax to avoid damage to clothing.
Before waxing wood, it should be prepared. To do this, the unpainted surface is sanded and degreased with a solvent. It wouldn’t hurt if the board was treated with a primer before waxing. But this is not necessary, since there is no need to fill the pores of the wood. If a primer layer is applied, it must be sanded with fine sandpaper.
The wax paste is applied with a soaked tampon in a circular motion in several layers. Having treated the entire surface, it must be rubbed along the wood fibers. If you have difficulty grinding, you should briefly heat the jar over low heat. The second layer is applied a few minutes after the first, but the rubbing is done across the grain.
After the solvent vapors have evaporated, which is about a day, several more layers of the substance should be applied to the surface and, after complete drying, polishing should be done. soft cloth. If you rub the treated surface for a long time with a clean cloth, you can even achieve.
Features of wood waxing
After applying the wax, a slight yellowish tint can be seen on the surface of the wood. This is waxing, impregnation using an ancient method of processing wooden products and parquet floors. The structure of the wood becomes unusually beautiful, the board acquires not only a touch of naturalness, but also exudes a wonderful smell of nature. This method is considered one of the most noble, because the wood becomes unusually smooth and soft under beeswax.
Some craftsmen carefully polished the waxed surface until it formed a mirror-like shine. There are oleoresin waxes on sale, which are used in liquid form with the addition of solvents. The composition is created on the basis of beeswax and pine resin or orange oil. The advent of mechanical tools, irons, made it possible to use solid pieces without dissolving them with the help of chemistry.
When treating floors, hard grades contain a small amount of chemistry, so they are usually safely heated before use. Today on the building components market you can find earth-colored wax. It is necessary to apply such a composition with caution, since there is a possibility of getting an uneven layer, which will be difficult to correct, and the difference in color will be noticeable. In order to change the color of the coating, you should not use earthen paint, but rather saturate the wood with stain, but not with oil.
Remember that a waxed surface has a healing effect on human body and creates a favorable atmosphere in the room. The secret is that the wood under the wax continues to breathe, and electrostatic discharges do not form.
Resin production
Resin can be quickly prepared for application to the surface of wood. To do this, you need to fill a metal container with beeswax and melt it in a water bath. 30 percent wax is added to the base, 20 percent oily drying oil and 50 percent orange turpentine oil are added. After mixing the components, impregnating with the molten substance, the beeswax is cooled until it hardens. The product is used for rubbing wooden surfaces, parquets, etc.
Rules for working with wax
The more dissolved wax in the composition, the more saturated the final protective solution becomes, so this process can be controlled at your own discretion. Treatment with liquid impregnations is carried out during repeated treatments of the wood structure; it is recommended to repeat this procedure several times in a row.
As a rule, the solution is already applied to the waxed surface. Wax compositions for floors have a hard substance, and can contain several types of wax: based on beeswax, carnauba and regular. There are also special waxes created from petroleum components, which contain chemical solvents without an oil base.
It is worth noting that the use of wax protective equipment will significantly extend life wooden coverings, furniture.
In this article I will tell you about an awesome thing - homemade wax impregnation.
With its help, you can make fabric, leather or wood waterproof, and also protect metal from rust.
What is extremely pleasing is that the cost of this cream is extremely low, and production is elementary.
All ingredients can be obtained without any problems, whether now or after the mythical BP.
This impregnation, in my opinion, should be included in the arsenal of every hiker, survivalist and bushcrafter. In any case, I am extremely pleased with her.
So. To prepare we will need:
Beeswax. It is purchased in stores selling honey. The cost is 500 rubles per kilogram. In case of BP, it is obtained by barter at the nearest apiary.
Natural linseed oil (not oxol). Purchased at hardware stores. It is inexpensive, 100 rubles for 400 g. In BP it is made from flaxseed, or sunflower oil by long-term boiling.
Turpentine is also sold in hardware stores and is even cheaper than drying oil. In BP it is produced by distillation from resin.
Three wax on a grater.
Melt the grated wax in a water bath. After complete melting, remove from heat and stir in drying oil.
I prepared the first recipe without turpentine. I simply mixed wax and drying oil one to one by weight.
Then I poured it into the mold and set it to cool.
Looking ahead, I will say that the option without turpentine is not so convenient to use, but it can be smeared even on the face.
I liked the option with turpentine more in terms of ease of application.
To prepare it, you must maintain the following proportions: two parts wax, one part drying oil and one part turpentine.
The recipe is similar. Melt the wax in a water bath, remove from heat, add drying oil and mix thoroughly, add turpentine and also mix thoroughly, then leave to cool.
To fill this rather large jar (it's larger than shoe polish jars),
you need 75 grams of wax and two tablespoons of drying oil with turpentine.
After hardening.
The version without turpentine is very dense and does not melt in your hands.
The version with turpentine is quite dense, but at the same time the consistency is pasty. If you take a piece in your hands, it will slowly begin to melt. Due to turpentine it has a slight resinous smell.
There are several application methods:
Firstly, it is well suited for wood. Take a large piece of impregnation and spread it thickly on a wooden surface.
Then we warm it up with a hairdryer; on a hike it can be a fire.
And polish it with some kind of cloth. As a result, the wax penetrates into the pores of the wood and it becomes moisture resistant. Water simply does not wet it.
We simply spread it thickly on the metal. You don't have to warm it up. Now the piece of iron will not rust because... no contact with water.
The second method of treating wood is vigorous rubbing of impregnation. As a result, it melts from the heat of the hands and friction and also covers the wood wonderfully.
