Proper floor insulation is necessary to maintain warmth and dryness throughout the house, reduces heating costs, and helps maintain a cozy atmosphere in the room. To carry out the work efficiently, you need to become familiar with the basic technologies, and then master the procedure for laying the material and install the insulation, following the recommendations.
Cold concrete floors, even if there is a basement, can be easily insulated with polystyrene foam. It is important to create a layer of insulation on the basement side, since an uninsulated basement is a source of cold. High-quality insulation becomes a barrier to the penetration of cold into the building.
For proper insulation Usually they use sheets of slab foam, the thickness of which is 5-12 cm. You can purchase sheets with chamfers, since their installation is easier than classic version. If the walls in the room are uneven, you need to mask deviations from the norm with polyurethane foam. To level out uneven floors, foam of different thicknesses is used.
The foam is attached to the base with plastic dowels, the average length of which is 150 mm. Their size should be selected according to the specific parameters of the selected insulation. Work must begin from the distant hard-to-reach areas. The sheet is applied to the base, and the holes necessary for further fastening are drilled with a puncher. The sheet is removed, the designated places are drilled further until the required depth is obtained for the full installation of the dowels.
If it is not possible to adapt entire sheets to specific contours of the floor in certain places, you need to carefully cut out parts that fit the shape and continue laying. Upon completion of installation, the surface of the insulation is plastered. You can lay a thin reinforcing mesh, apply a plaster mixture on it and wait until it dries.
The floor surface must be level. A concrete screed is poured and, if necessary, a slight slope is artificially created. If any cracks are noticed in the subfloor, they should be completely repaired.
Mineral wool must be protected with a sealed layer of vapor barrier. You can use plastic film or select the material individually. The layer is laid with a large overlap, which extends to the walls, and is secured with thin anchors.
Installation of guide beams is necessary to create a clear frame for laying each tile mineral wool. The distance between the logs should be equal to the width of the insulation boards or be slightly smaller so that the mineral wool is additionally held without fastenings.
Mineral wool slabs are placed in the slots between the grooves. If the material is used in rolls, it should be pre-cut. If a decision is made to lay mineral wool in two layers, then the joints of the second should, if possible, be placed on the middle part of the elements of the first.
A layer of waterproofing should be applied to the mineral wool, which should reliably seal the coating. It is necessary to prevent the absorption of moisture into the insulation, since it will linger in the material and can come out of it extremely slowly. After installing all layers of preparatory materials, you can lay the finished floor.
An expanded clay cushion is poured onto the pre-prepared, leveled floor. The thickness is 15-30 cm; depending on the required reliability of the insulation, the layer can vary in thickness, but should not be lower than 10 cm, since a coating that is too thin will bring minimal benefit.
Expanded clay is poured in an even, uniform layer, so the installation of additional beacons is required. Metal profiles divide the workspace into several equal parts. The distance between them should not exceed 70-80 cm. If necessary, under metallic profile The linings are made of wood, since the material must be poured as evenly as possible.
For waterproofing, you can use polyethylene film. It should be slightly larger than the floor area. The edges are fixed at the top, the material rises slightly onto the walls. You can make a concrete screed on the waterproofing layer. Sand, cement and water are thoroughly mixed in a ratio of 3:2:2. When pouring the mixture onto expanded clay, you need to carefully level the coating.
Waterproofing can be done in another way. An expanded clay screed is installed for it. The insulation pillow is not covered with film, but is immediately filled with a homogeneous liquid solution - “cement laitance”. This is necessary to prevent the possibility of moisture affecting the expanded clay granules. The solution should envelop the insulation, so you should not make it too liquid so that it does not go into the thickness of the material.
If necessary, additional components are added to the solution after the mixture is created. Typically, such cement is produced in a 1:3 ratio with sand. To properly mix the mixture, use a construction mixer.
Foil materials can also help reliably insulate the floor. The finished surface is filled with concrete screed or laid with a layer of any insulation. Izolon or penofol is glued to it. These materials do not allow moisture to pass through, so to avoid settling, they should be mounted so that there is a small, ventilated cavity above them to allow excess moisture to escape.
To form a corresponding cavity, thin wooden slats are placed on top of the insulation, the height of which is not less than 1.5 cm, the step is 30-50 cm. The laying level is controlled; if necessary, slats can be placed under the folding logs.
Floorboards are placed on the joists perpendicular to their location. Their thickness may not exceed 4 cm. An even layer of plywood can be laid on top of them, for which sheets 8-14 mm thick are suitable. If very thin sheets are selected, then the coating is laid in 2 layers. The floor covering is laid on the insulated floor structure. To make a warm floor on a foil base, the selected insulation is laid, and the heating systems are laid out on it. The logs and finishing part of the floor are installed.
If you plan to pour a cement screed onto penofol, you must purchase the “ALP” type, it is equipped protective coating, preventing cement from affecting penofol. This condition must be met, since cement is an aggressive environment to which aluminum, which acts as a coating for this insulation, reacts.
Video - Izolon
Thanks to the possibility of insulating the floor with foam, there is no need to use special protective films; there is no need for additional leveling of the surface or its restoration after a few years. The frame is constructed by aligning guides and modeling profiles. Foam is sprayed. The flooring is being installed.
If it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of an already finished floor, then foam insulation will reduce the volume and duration of work. The old coating is dismantled, foam is sprayed, and it swells almost instantly. To complete the work, it is enough to install a new floor covering. If produced renovation work By additional insulation Once a wooden floor has already been constructed, the boards can only be partially dismantled to obtain the access necessary to the interior of the floor when spraying foam.
Insulating the floor with foam allows you to provide airtight thermal insulation, since the material forms a homogeneous consistency.
There is no need to install waterproofing or any vapor barriers, since the foam independently performs their functions. The foam hardens within a few minutes after application, so it can be covered with floor coverings on the same day. It contains no nutrients, so there is no risk of deformation harmful insects or rodents. It does not emit harmful substances, and its base is water. When purchasing, you can receive a manufacturer’s warranty for 50 years of operation, respectively, the actual terms are much higher.
Experts advise using the method of spraying ecowool from a special dispenser. The insulation is distributed from a previously rented or purchased installation. After drying, it can be covered with a floor covering. The thickness of the insulation should not be less than 30 cm to avoid heat loss.
Without the use of special installation, ecowool can be laid manually if required small area coverings. Material consumption during manual installation exceeds the amount for a similar installation from a spray gun by up to 50%. Hard-to-reach areas are not easy to fill, so there is a risk of them remaining empty. Positive side This method means there is no need to purchase a blow molding machine.
After opening the package, the insulation is placed in a large container. It needs to be fluffed using a special drill with a mixing attachment. When selecting a suitable container, remember that when fluffed, the volume of ecowool increases three times.
A vapor barrier, such as clad kraft paper, is installed. Ecowool is laid out on the surface; a bucket or other capacious but not heavy object can become a dispenser. When manually laying ecowool, before covering the finishing floor, you should wait some time until a moisture-impermeable crust forms under the influence of lignin. After finishing the work, you can lay the floorboards.
Video - Blowing ecowool
It is recommended to lay polystyrene foam boards using logs, since in this case they will take the greatest load. The thickness of the coating should not be less than 10 cm. The cavity between the polystyrene foam and the joists is special technological gap the perimeter walls can be sealed using fiberglass insulation, since its price is lower than that of polyurethane foam.
When laying a thermal insulation layer on top of a concrete base, you should select a material with the maximum strength characteristics available to the developer. To level the base, you can limit yourself to laying slabs of various thicknesses, but the best option is to create an even screed that will hide all the unevenness of the concrete, ensure the most even position of the slabs, and therefore increase their resistance to heavy loads. If necessary, you can use a leveling screed to change the angle of inclination by a few centimeters.
The prepared base is covered with a waterproofing film, which is fixed along the walls, spreading slightly over them, therefore, when calculating this material, the reserve required for hemming should be taken into account. When laying expanded polystyrene, the fastening solution is applied to the entire surface of the insulation; its thickness should be about 2 cm, and if possible it is distributed evenly. The structure is fixed with reinforcing mesh.
The finishing screed is applied after the glue has completely dried, its thickness is 6-8 cm. All gaps formed for technical reasons or due to delamination or cracking of the material are sealed with polyurethane foam. If not available, you can use fiberglass. Stacked roll waterproofing. It should be secured with an overlap of at least 10 cm. All strips are fastened with construction tape, sold in strips. A floor covering is laid on top of the insulating layers.
Video - Floor insulation with polystyrene foam
Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam avoids seams. It is beneficial to save space, since the thickness of the insulation layer does not exceed 10 cm. A layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing is optional. Polyurethane foam resists condensation and does not allow or absorb moisture. The entire floor can be covered in one day, since the application speed is record-breaking in comparison with other insulation materials. All components for preparing the solution are stored and purchased in liquid form. The service life of the material is from 60 years.
The use of polyurethane foam is not harmful environment. The components of the composition do not evaporate, so it is completely harmless to human health. The material is not subject to rotting, mold cannot grow on it, since it is not a favorable environment for bacteria. Rodents and other pests also do not live in polyurethane foam, since it is not suitable as food. The mixture must be prepared immediately before pouring it. After applying and drying the layer of polyurethane foam, you can make the final screed without the use of additional coatings.
To ensure high-quality floor insulation, an analysis of the loads that will be placed on it should be carried out. The insulation must be installed following the rules, since working according to the instructions will help ensure its long service life and protect the floor as much as possible from heat loss.
September 7, 2016Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high tech, computer technology, programming.
Today I want to talk about do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house. After all, you know that I have a construction project, which I do not to make money, but simply for the soul. This is the construction of a house on summer cottage my son.
My preliminary calculations show that if you do not use insulation, you will have to spend too much money on purchasing fuel for the heating system, since the home will be used in winter, and quite often.
Well, besides, I want my future grandchildren to run around on warm floors without slippers and socks, remembering kind words his prudent grandfather.
So there is no question of necessity and feasibility, you just need to decide how this can be done and how to insulate the floor in a private house. This is what I want to talk about in today’s material.
Basic rules for floor insulation
I have always told everyone that the best way to get a warm and cozy private home is self-build. In this case, you can think in advance about the best way to insulate the floors and will not skimp on thermal insulation materials. And then, during the operation of your home, you will not have to finish anything, remodel, improve, and so on.
The specific technology depends on several factors, but the main one is what materials were and will be used to construct the floor. It is also very important to know whether there is a large basement under the insulated floor or not.
Depending on the circumstances, I can offer two options:
- Insulation of the floor in the house from below. This is the case when there is a basement, and the ceiling is made on joists (for example, in a cottage made of timber). Then the thermal insulation material can be hemmed from below.
- Thermal insulation of the floor in a private house on the ground. Here, all thermal insulation work will have to be carried out from the living quarters, that is, from above lower ceiling first floor.
If you have to insulate an old house, which belonged to parents or grandparents, I advise you to perform high-quality repairs foundations, including replacement of support joists. Yes, it will be more expensive and longer, but you will be sure that the home will be not only warm, but also strong, and the floor will not collapse under your feet.
Thermal insulators used
On modern construction market There is a huge amount of heat-insulating materials that can be used to insulate concrete and wooden floors. To make it easier for you to choose suitable option, I will list the main requirements that I consider important:
- light weight - this parameter is especially important in timber house, where I would advise minimizing the load on enclosing and supporting structures;
- hydrophobicity – water often gets on the floor, not to mention air humidity, so it is desirable that the technical characteristics of the insulation do not deteriorate when wet;
- long service life - after all, you don’t want to carry out floor insulation measures every 2-3 years, especially after retirement, when you just want to babysit your grandchildren;
- environmental safety - I certainly don’t want my descendants to breathe the chemicals emitted by cheap or low-quality heat insulators.
If the price of the material is very important to you, then to choose, you can use the table in which I have summarized the cheapest, but quite effective options.
| Insulation | Description |
| Dry sawdust | They have a minimal price, but their performance properties deteriorate greatly when wet. Therefore, I highly recommend taking care of high-quality waterproofing on both sides, especially since the material has a high water absorption coefficient. But environmental friendliness is at its best. |
| Sawdust granules | A more advanced version of the previous insulation. Granules are made from sawdust, to which water-repellent substances, antiseptics and fire retardants are added. All this makes them more practical to use, but reduces their environmental friendliness. |
| Slag | A good material that attracts builders with its low cost and low thermal conductivity. However, due to its weight, I would advise using it only for insulating floors installed on the ground (without a basement). |
| Expanded clay | Mineral granules, which are quite environmentally friendly, are light in weight and inexpensive. But in order to properly insulate the floors, you will have to pour a considerable layer of material (in some cases up to 30 cm), which is not always acceptable due to the height of the ceilings. |
| Mineral wool | Only the simplest varieties, devoid of heat-reflecting additives and other modifiers that improve performance properties, are inexpensive. But the material is non-flammable and environmentally friendly, as it is made from basalt. |
| Glass wool | This material is currently practically not used for residential premises, as it requires careful waterproofing and is harmful to health. I highly recommend choosing something more suitable, especially since there are many options. |
| Styrofoam | Lightweight, porous and cheap material with a low thermal conductivity coefficient. Personally, I consider the disadvantages to be low fire-fighting properties and the fact that mice like to chew foam plastic. And one more thing - low strength, therefore, for example, it cannot be used under it. |
In principle, there are many options, so you can choose something suitable.
All these materials are inexpensive, but to install them you will have to buy additional materials and expend considerable effort. Take this into account when choosing insulation. It is possible that the entire insulation operation will be much more expensive than you expect.
However, I will be insulating the house for my own children and grandchildren, so I am not going to save money. If you share the same opinion, then I advise you to pay attention to the following heat insulator options:
- Vermiculite. A material for which the raw materials are processed hydrated micas, characterized by a very low thermal conductivity coefficient and a long guaranteed service life.
- Penoplex. This is extruded polystyrene foam, which is a distant relative of polystyrene foam. Like the latter, it consists of small closed cells filled with air, but is distinguished by its highest strength, high hydrophobic properties and non-flammability.
- Fiber insulation with additives. We are talking about mineral wool from such manufacturers as Ursa, Isovent, Penofol and so on. They are treated with various additives and modifiers, which give the material water-repellent properties and increase wear resistance.
Some materials have a protective heat-reflecting layer of metal foil, which increases the effectiveness of basalt wool.
For myself, I chose basalt mats, which are sold already cut into pieces. They are easier to install between joists. In my case, Izover KL37 or KT37 (one in rolls, pipe mats) came up.
Insulation of a wooden floor
To find out which layer of the selected thermal insulation material needs to be laid for high-quality floor insulation, you can refer to SNiP number 02/23/2003, which contains all the necessary tables and thermal calculations.
For those who do not want to dive into the world of numbers and tables, I will give calculations on the thermal insulation material that I chose:
- For country house son located in middle lane In Russia, 12 cm of insulation is enough;
- for the northern regions of our vast country it is better to equip a layer 20 cm thick;
- Southerners are the luckiest; a house in Krasnodar or the surrounding area can be insulated with basalt mats 8 cm thick.
In fact, I can say that insulating a wooden house is quite simple, since its floors and interfloor ceilings are a system of support beams, which are covered with boards at the top and bottom. That is, you get these kind of containers that just need to be filled with insulating material.
However, as they say, the essence is in the details, so I’ll tell you in more detail and detail how to properly insulate the floor in a private house made of timber.
Thermal insulation of the floor in a house without a basement
When I designed and built the house, I abandoned the building for several reasons that are not necessary to give here. This determines the technology that I will use.
So that you can learn for yourself more benefit from my story, I will outline the sequence of actions for the case when insulation occurs in a rather old house, which has been in use for a long time and the flooring has partially become unusable.
So, the instructions are as follows:
- First, I dismantle the baseboards and floorboards. If you plan to cover them again (the condition allows you to do this), I advise you to number the parts so that you can later assemble them in the same order.
- I inspect the support joists. If partial damage to the support beam is found, this area can be cut out and a new part can be installed. It can be screwed on the sides with additional boards and galvanized screws (to protect the fittings from corrosion).
- If the floor is not built on the ground, then a board is screwed to the bottom of the log, which will serve as the bottom of an improvised box for insulation. For this, I recommend using inexpensive edged boards, since no one will ever see them after finishing the work.
To make your work more convenient, I can recommend the following:
- take unedged board and attach it across the joists from their lower part so that the distance between adjacent parts is slightly less than the gap between the joists;
- other boards are placed on top of this unedged board, which will play the role of the bottom;
- there is no need to lay them tightly so that during the expansion of the wood the surface does not warp;
- It is not necessary to attach the bottom boards to the support boards; they will then be tightly pressed with insulation.
- Then I lay a layer of waterproofing on the bedding boards. Some experts believe that if the groundwater is deep, then this operation is not worth performing; it is enough to lay a vapor barrier membrane that does not interfere with air infiltration.
But I decided that it would be both more reliable and durable. What if my great-grandchildren will live in this house? So why not try and do everything as efficiently as possible.
- The waterproofing is laid so that a continuous sheet is formed without seams. Therefore, I roll out the rolls with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Moreover, I make sides on the support joists and the lower trim of the perimeter of the house. To prevent the sheets from fidgeting, they can be secured with a construction stapler.
- Waterproofing seams can be additionally sealed with bitumen mastic or special waterproofing putty.
- Then I lay mineral mats on the laid waterproofing material. I initially positioned the support joists so that the insulation would fit between them without gaps. I recommend that you use rolls rather than mats, which are easier to adjust to the required dimensions.
There's one here important point. The insulation must be laid in “troughs” of joists and boards so that heat insulating material the joist did not reach the top cut (the gap should be about 2 cm). This is necessary for ventilation.
If the joists are low or the insulation is thick, I advise you to make a counter-lattice on top, on which the floor covering (in the sense of a floor board) will subsequently be laid.
I don’t think I need to tell you for a long time how to make a counter-batten. Take a wooden lath and nail it to the joists at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other, placing it perpendicular to the supporting elements.
- I lay a vapor barrier on top of the thermal insulation material, which will protect the basalt mats from moisture penetrating from the living space. If you install a counter-lattice, then the membrane must be laid under it. I think this is clear.
- At the last stage, previously removed or new floor boards are installed. And only then - if there is a need and desire - decorative flooring.
If the idea of insulating the floor came to you before the construction of your home, in the place where the house will be (inside the foundation), I advise you to remove part of the soil (several tens of centimeters), cover a shallow pit with geotextiles and pour expanded clay. And then install the logs on top. Thus, mineral insulation in the ground will further increase the effectiveness of the measures taken.
Thermal insulation of the floor in a house with a basement
The technology itself is similar to that described above. However, you will need to do less, since there is no need to dismantle the floor covering.
So, I’m telling you the sequence of actions, read carefully:
- As in the previous case, it is necessary to carefully inspect the support beams (if the house is old) and carry out their partial repair or replacement, if necessary.
- After this, you need to nail the support bars. They need to be secured to the side edges of the beams. Considering that the air in the basement has high humidity, you can replace the wood with a galvanized profile, which will last longer.
Too thick parts are not needed here, since only pieces of heat insulation will rest on the support bars, which, as you understand, weighs little.
- Then the insulation is cut. It is necessary to cut the material so that its width is several centimeters greater than the distance between the joists. Then the material expands inside the floor and does not fall out.
- After laying the mineral wool, the vapor barrier membrane is secured using a stapler.
- Well, then the subfloor boards are sewn on.
To protect the basement floor from rodents, I also recommend securing it from below metal mesh with small cells. This is especially true in dachas.
Conclusion
This is how I insulated the floor of my son’s dacha. But the wife still said that as soon as the grandchildren appear, she will knit their socks. Although I don't see the need for this. By the way, have you insulated the floor in a private house or country house? And if so, how? Tell us about it in the comments.
If you are interested in the process of insulating a concrete floor, I recommend watching the video in this article.
September 7, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
In private homes and cottages, floors are most often made of wood. Wood has good thermal insulation properties, but it is not able to fully cope with the cold air that comes from the ground and cannot serve as a maximum barrier to warm air rooms. All this not only makes life in the house uncomfortable, but also leads to a decrease in the service life of the floor due to condensation occurring in the underground. That is why floor insulation in a private house is an important matter that cannot be neglected.
There are many materials for floor insulation: from the sawdust and dry leaves used by our grandfathers to modern, expensive heat-insulating materials. The choice of thermal insulation is most often based on the financial capabilities of the owner, but it is necessary to take into account the type of base and the intended method of laying the insulation.
If restrictions in cash no, then you can purchase modern, lightweight and easy-to-install materials offered by manufacturers. Developed floor thermal insulation technologies and high-quality materials will help you quickly and easily cope with floor insulation on your own. If such materials are not affordable, then you will have to remember proven folk methods.
Thermal insulation schemes for wooden floors
Budget insulation
Home craftsmen often use various scrap materials and industrial waste from their area to insulate the floor. The following can be used as heat insulators:
- Dry sawdust. If there is a wood processing shop nearby, then such insulation will become a cheap alternative to expensive materials. It should be remembered that sawdust, like any wood, actively absorbs moisture, so when insulating the floor using this method, it is very important to provide high-quality waterproofing both from the ground and from the room. An alternative to sawdust can be dry leaves.
- Sawdust granules. This is a more modern version of dry sawdust. Such granules are good because they are treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic. This protects the sawdust, and therefore the floor, from mold, fungi and rodents.
- Slag. A very cheap material that is formed at large production facilities. Most often it is used for insulating floors on the ground.
- Expanded clay. An excellent inexpensive heat insulator that is lightweight and environmentally friendly.
- Mineral wool. The material of newfangled corrugated shells and foil layers has long been known to consumers and continues to be actively used for insulation various surfaces. This is a lightweight, reliable and relatively inexpensive insulation.
- Fiberglass and slag wool. These materials are available both in rolls and in mats. They are easy to install and allow you to achieve good results.
- Styrofoam. A relatively new insulation material that has found its fans among owners of private houses and summer cottages. It is lightweight, does not absorb moisture and is easy to install, but requires protection from rodents. The main disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its flammability and the formation of large amounts of acrid smoke during combustion.
All of the materials listed are inexpensive, but if the installation rules are followed, they will prevent heat loss from the floor. Unfortunately, most of them require significant labor to install.
Insulation for the wooden floor of a private house
Modern high-tech insulation
If the consumer is not short of money, then he can insulate a wooden floor in a private house with more modern heat insulators:
- Penoplex- Available in slabs. The material has increased strength and has excellent waterproofing properties;
- Vermiculite– produced by processing hydrated mica. The material is distinguished not only by excellent thermal insulation properties, but also by durability;
- Mats and slabs made of glass wool, foamed polystyrene and basalt with an applied foil side, which is designed to reflect heat rays. These are branded materials Thermolife, Ursa, Isovent, Isolite, Penofol.
- Ecowool and polyurethane foam will help create a dense layer of insulation that does not allow moisture to pass through. The only disadvantage of these materials is that special equipment is required to blow them.
Upgraded floor insulation options
Options for floor insulation in a private house and country house
The main options for insulating a wooden floor are based on the use of the house structure - beams and joists. The principle of operation is to create a kind of “boxes” into which the insulation is placed. Having chosen insulation, you should strictly adhere to the algorithm developed by the masters. This will allow you to complete the work quickly and efficiently.
The principle of installing floor thermal insulation in a wooden house
Insulation of the floor above the low underground
This insulation option is associated with large labor costs, since the flooring will have to be completely dismantled. The operating procedure is as follows:
- The baseboards and floorboards are dismantled. All elements must be signed so that they can be put back in place without any problems.
- Inspect the logs and, if necessary, repair them or replace them with new ones.
- The hemming of the bars is carried out, which will serve as the basis for the cranial flooring.
- Measure the distance between the joists and prepare pieces of edged boards of the required length.
- Install the subfloor.
Expert advice! The subfloor boards should not be joined tightly, since wood tends to change its size when humidity changes. Edged boards lay loosely on the bars without securing them.
- The rough flooring along with the joists is covered with a layer of waterproofing. As waterproofing, roofing felt, paraffin paper or special modern membrane materials are used, which are laid overlapping. The strips are connected with tape and stapled to the joists.
- Insulation is placed between the joists, leaving about 2 cm to the top edge of the joists for ventilation.
- A layer of diffuse membrane or glassine is placed on top.
- Floorboards and plinths are laid on top of the entire insulated structure.
Thermal insulation of floors on joists and beams
It is best to provide thermal insulation at the construction stage, but if for some reason this was not done, then you can insulate the floor in a country house or in a private house using the described algorithm. If insulation is carried out at the construction stage, it is usually carried out using expanded clay, poured onto a layer of waterproofing.
Insulating the floor above a high cellar
The insulation technology in this case is similar to that described above, but it can be done much faster, since it does not require dismantling the floorboards. The operating algorithm is as follows:
- Beams on the underground side are inspected and, if necessary, repaired.
- Waterproofing is stapled to the crawl space ceiling beams.
- Attached to beams wooden blocks or metal profile.
- Mineral wool is cut into pieces that should be 2–3 cm wider than the distance between the joists. The mineral wool is laid out by surprise.
- A layer of vapor barrier is secured from below with a stapler.
- After this, the subfloor boards are hemmed. They are attached across the beams.
Insulation of the floor above the interfloor ceiling
Expert advice! To protect the structure from rodents, a fine-mesh metal mesh is attached between the insulation layer and the subfloor.
Double floor insulation
The classic technology of this insulation method can be used in rooms with high ceilings, since after completion of the work the height of the room will decrease by 15–20 cm. But today modern technologies allow you to install such floors in any room. Raised floors from Knauf allow you to insulate the floor by changing the height of the room by only 5 cm.
According to traditional technology necessary:
- Remove the baseboard and repair the floor, filling all possible cracks. For these purposes, you can use sawdust mixed with wood glue or paper soaked in paste.
- Install logs on the floor in increments of 0.6–0.7 m.
- Using a hydraulic level, align the top of the joists on the same plane.
- Lay a layer of waterproofing. The panels are laid overlapping, overlapping the wall by 10-15 cm.
- Place a heat insulator between the joists. This can be stone wool, expanded clay, polystyrene foam or any other insulation. When laying, be sure to leave ventilation gap about 2 cm to the level of the new floor.
- Place a layer of vapor barrier.
- Fasten any sheet material: fiberboard, plywood, etc.
- Lay down the final floor covering.
Algorithm for floor insulation in a private house
Please note! Regardless of the insulation option, the floors in houses are bored, piled or screw foundations Be sure to protect it with a windproof barrier from blowing out. It is located on the outside of the insulation system.
We looked at just a few ways to insulate the floor in a private house. There are other options. In each specific case, the insulation method is chosen taking into account climatic conditions, house design and other factors. Knowing the basic principles of insulation, you can create your own project.
Video: floor insulation in a private house
Insulating the floor in a private house with your own hands is a completely affordable task, and it can be solved without involving professional builders. The main thing is to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material and the technology for carrying out insulation work. This will largely depend on the design of the floor.
It is necessary to insulate the floor in any case, treating this task with the utmost responsibility. Without this, you will never be able to create comfortable living conditions in your home, even if you spend huge amounts of money on operating the most advanced heating system and other climate control equipment. Bet thermal insulation is money down the drain!
The publication will discuss materials used for thermal insulation, various insulation technologies, depending on the design of the floors.
Materials for floor insulation in a private house
The first thing you need to do is decide on the choice of thermal insulation material that is suitable for the floor of a particular design. Therefore, when considering the characteristics of insulation, it will immediately be noted for which floor they are suitable and an overview of the technology of their use will be provided.
So, today mineral wool (glass and basalt) and expanded polystyrene are most often used for thermal insulation of floors. various types and expanded clay. It should be noted that there are other materials for insulation, for example, ecowool or polyurethane foam. However, their use will require special equipment and experience with it. That is, it is difficult to put them under the “do-it-yourself” category.
There are other, let’s say, more “exotic” insulation materials, for example, foam glass slabs or cork. But they have not yet gained much popularity, apparently due to their inaccessibility or excessively high price. Our article is intended for the average home owner who wants to do the insulation themselves.
Synthetic foam insulation
This group includes the most commonly used thermal insulation materials today - ordinary white polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and polyethylene foam (). These insulation materials gained popularity due to their low thermal conductivity and quite affordable cost. In addition, foam materials have a number of other advantages, but they also have very significant disadvantages.
Extruded polystyrene foam
This material is made from the same raw materials as the familiar white foam, but using a completely different technology. Therefore, it has improved characteristics.
It is better not to consider white foam plastic at all as insulation for floors, and it is also better not to produce it. Honestly, he has no place in the system at all internal insulation residential building - there are too many shortcomings, including those that are extremely dangerous for humans. For extruded material, these “disadvantages” are still significantly reduced. Therefore, it is better to do it - this is what extruded polystyrene foam is called.
The disadvantages of this material are the following features:
- The flammability of the insulation, it belongs to the flammability group G2÷G4.
- Low heat resistance – at elevated temperatures the material begins to “float”
- Low vapor permeability, that is, the material is not breathable. Again, this is sometimes a clear advantage.
- Low tensile and compressive strength of thin insulation.
As a substrate, ordinary foamed polyethylene with a thickness of up to 3 mm is used. And the foil version can be laid on top of other rigid insulation, or also as a reflective substrate. In addition, the foil material is usually laid under the “warm floor” system, and any of its possible varieties - electric cable or infrared film, water, or other floor covering.
Polyethylene foam sheets are laid end-to-end and sealed together with foil tape. The coating must be airtight, since very often it is the layer of foiled polyethylene foam that is considered as a necessary vapor barrier.
So, the material is very good, but is designed only for use together with other insulation materials. Relying on the fact that only its use can create full-fledged effective thermal insulation of the floor of the first floor of a private house is simply naive.
Mineral wool
You can find three types of mineral wool on sale - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Slag wool is practically not used in residential construction, as it does not have outstanding characteristics and often does not meet the requirements sanitary standards. Therefore, the features of this type of insulation will not be considered.
Basalt and glass wool also differ in their characteristics, but both of these types are widely used in insulating structures. These are the ones that will be considered in more detail.
Glass wool
Glass wool is made from environmentally friendly raw materials - sand, broken glass, borax, soda and limestone. From the melt of materials, fibers are formed that are quite brittle and brittle, but when they are pressed into mats using binders, a fairly stable air-saturated structure with high insulation capabilities is obtained.
Glass wool can have different thicknesses, have different densities, produced in regular and foil form. When using the second option for floor insulation, mats or slabs are laid with foil facing up, that is, towards the room. Thanks to this, heat from the room falling on the insulation is reflected back.
Glass wool has many advantages. These include high thermal insulation capabilities, fairly high heat resistance, resistance to fire and chemicals, and an affordable cost of the material.
Disadvantages: fairly high fragility of the fibers. This creates difficulties in work - the material is caustic and can cause severe irritation to the skin, respiratory system and mucous membranes. In addition, such fragility is a prerequisite for gradual shrinkage of the material during operation, especially if there are vibration loads. And this leads to a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics.
In addition, not all is well with glass wool when exposed to water - it can get wet and waste its insulating qualities. Measures are required to prevent it from becoming saturated with moisture.
Stone (basalt) wool
Stone wool has the most optimal characteristics of all types of insulation of this class. This thermal insulation material is made from molten basalt rocks, from which thin fibers are drawn, which are much stronger and more elastic than glass.
Quality basalt insulation- the most resistant to moisture. Such stability is achieved by special treatment, and sometimes reaches almost hydrophobicity - water does not penetrate into the structure of the material at all.
Basalt wool from leading manufacturers is highly resistant to open fire and can withstand very high temperatures. Therefore, such material is classified as NG group - non-combustible insulation. A very important quality for any home!
Manufacturers are also trying to minimize the possible emission of formaldehyde. Thus, basalt insulation labeled “ECO” or “Eurostandard” is environmentally friendly - it uses safe acrylic resins rather than phenol-formaldehyde as a binder. It is clear that the price of such products is much higher, but they are really worth it.
A significant drawback of any mineral wool is that mice love to make their nests and passages in them. Moreover, for some reason rodents are not at all afraid of the thorniness of the fibers - they feel great in warmth and dryness. And if the characteristics indicate that the material does not attract rodents, this should be treated with a fair amount of skepticism.
It is possible to protect the thermal insulation layer, for example, by covering its areas accessible to rodents with a metal mesh with cells measuring 2÷3 mm - it will not succumb to the teeth of mice.
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Mineral wool is used in different schemes floor insulation. Low and medium density materials are suitable for laying between beams or joists. High-density slabs can be used for insulation on the ground or floor slab with subsequent pouring of reinforced screed.
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Expanded clay and its use for insulation
One of the most practical, reliable and durable, as well as environmentally friendly insulation materials is expanded clay. This material is produced from refractory purified clay using special firing technology.
This material has many advantages:
- Expanded clay does not contain toxic components, as it is a natural material.
- Good thermal insulation properties. Moreover, these qualities do not decrease throughout the entire operational period.
- Low moisture absorption. Expanded clay does not swell or deform.
- Excellent soundproofing abilities. Moreover, the smaller the fraction of the material, the higher the sound insulation.
- High vapor permeability.
- Fire safety. The expanded clay mass not only does not ignite, but also prevents the spread of fire.
- High frost resistance, resistance to temperature changes.
- Resistance to biological influences. Fungus or mold does not form on expanded clay, since it does not contain a nutrient medium for such microflora of organisms. Expanded clay is not tolerated by rodents - they only do not live in it, but they also cannot make passages in it.
- Simplicity and variety of use cases.
Expanded clay also has disadvantages, but they are much fewer than the advantages. And the main thing is that the thermal conductivity coefficient is still almost three times higher than that of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. That is, a more significant layer of insulation will be required
Expanded clay is used in various floor insulation schemes.
- The first option is the simplest of all - pouring expanded clay onto the ground in the underground of a wooden floor. Before backfilling, a waterproofing material is laid on the soil base, which is removed and fixed on the walls to a height 50÷100 mm higher than the thickness of the backfill.
- Another option is to create bulk layers of the required thickness over the soil, followed by pouring a reinforced concrete screed
- Another way to insulate with expanded clay is to backfill it between joists or floor beams onto the subfloor:
If fine-grained expanded clay is used for backfilling, the subfloor must be prepared. Gaps between the boards, if any, can be sealed with clay-lime mass, which is also a natural material. It will securely hold the backfill between the joists on the subfloor;
An alternative option is to lay it on the subfloor and glassine logs. Its canvases are overlapped by approximately 100 mm. Glassine is also secured to wooden structural elements with staples driven in using a stapler.
The next step is to fill the expanded clay mixture between the joists and distribute it evenly throughout the space. A layer of vapor barrier film is sometimes laid on top of the expanded clay.
And finally, sheets of plywood or floorboards are laid and secured onto the joists.
- Another option for using expanded clay is mixing it with liquid cement-sand mortar. Concrete binds expanded clay granules together, which increases the strength of such a base.
This material becomes especially relevant when insulating floors on the ground - a leveling screed will be poured on top. True, they also use it for floors on joists, filling the entire space under the future flooring with the solution.
Since the insulating qualities of expanded clay still leave much to be desired, which requires very significant layers of backfill, it is often used in combination with other thermal insulation materials - expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. A calculation is made in advance which combination of material layers will provide the expected thermal insulation.
How to calculate the thickness of floor insulation based on the ground?
The main options for insulating the floor of the first floor of a private house
Now let’s learn more about how floor insulation is carried out in a private house.
Floor insulation on the ground
This approach is often practiced if the house is built on a strip foundation. The insulation can be expanded clay (on its own or in combination with another material), rigid insulating boards (extruded polystyrene foam) or blocks of premium mineral wool, specially designed for such purposes (this is specified in the passport characteristics of mineral wool). All insulation in this scheme has one thing in common - they are covered with a reinforced screed on top.
It might look something like this:
The soil (item 1) is thoroughly compacted, and its surface is leveled to the maximum.
Sand is poured on top (item 2), layer by layer, also with careful compaction. The thickness of the backfill is usually at least 100 mm (compacted).
Next, an optional but highly recommended layer of covered geotextile is shown (item 3). It will be a big plus for the stability of the entire created “pie” and will serve to separate the sand and gravel (crushed stone) layer, which will improve the drainage capabilities of this structure.
Above, a layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel (pos. 4) is poured, also with tamping, on which the so-called “concrete preparation” is performed (pos. 5). This is a poured layer of lean concrete (grade strength M50 is sufficient). On this basis, it is much easier to carry out further work, which will directly affect the insulation.
After the concrete preparation, a layer of waterproofing is laid (item 6) - the insulation must be protected from moisture from the ground. Rolled bitumen waterproofing can be used for these purposes - it will fit perfectly on a fairly strong concrete base.
Then it is laid thermal insulation material required thickness (item 7). The calculation of thickness is discussed separately - a link has already been given above. Possible combinations of insulation materials are also discussed there, so that thermal insulation becomes complete.
Next, the insulation is covered with another layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing material(item 8), which can be used as a polyethylene film, but very dense, at least 200 microns thick. The canvases must be laid with an overlap of 150÷200 mm and sealed along the seam lines with moisture-resistant tape. The waterproofing should extend onto the walls to a height above the surface of the future floor. The purpose of this layer is to prevent water from flowing out of the concrete solution when pouring the screed, that is, to create optimal conditions for hardening and maturing of concrete.
A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing, the cross-section of the rods and the cell sizes of which depend on the expected degree of load on the floors. But these are general construction issues that only indirectly relate to the insulation problems under consideration. The mesh must be lifted from the waterproofing layer so that it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the screed.
After hardening, maturing and gaining brand strength, the resulting screed will serve as a universal base for any finishing floor covering.
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Insulated floor on the floor slab
This scheme is rarely used in a private home, but, nevertheless, it should be mentioned. Moreover, it is very similar to the previous one, but much simpler. If only because there is already a rigid, reliable foundation that does not require additional modifications.
What are the features here?
The base is already ready - this is the floor slab (item 1) above the cold underground, usually hollow. It must be primed with the composition deep penetration, and it would not be out of place to provide a layer of waterproofing on it (item 2). Coating insulation or even thick polyethylene film is quite sufficient here.
The next layer is again waterproofing (item 4), which will protect the insulation from moisture penetration from above and ensure an optimal water-cement ratio when the screed hardens.
Well, above there is a reinforced screed (item 5), in which pipes or a “warm floor” heating cable can also be located. And the whole structure is crowned by the chosen finishing coat floor (item 6).
Insulation of floors using joists or floor beams
But this option occurs, perhaps, more often than all others. And first of all, because such a scheme is practically the only possible one if the house rests on a pile or columnar foundation. But even for a strip foundation with a high base it is quite applicable. “Heavy” materials such as cement, sand, gravel are not used here - wood or materials based on it become the main one. Well, and a plus, of course, is the insulation itself.
The schematic diagram can be represented as follows:
Skull blocks (item 2) or support boards are placed on the floor beams or joists (item 1). The lights will serve as the basis for installing the subfloor (item 3). For this purpose, flooring can be used as boards not the most high grade, and sheet materials such as plywood or OSB. The flooring can be solid, but more often the boards are mounted with a vacuum - both for reasons of economy and for better ventilation of the insulation.
Waterproofing - wind protection (item 4) is laid on the subfloor. It is important that this layer should not interfere with the free escape of water vapor, so that moisture does not linger in the insulation. Sometimes, when the boards are arranged frequently or when rigid polystyrene foam boards are used as thermal insulation, this layer is not laid at all - there is no need to fear direct water ingress from below, and the wind impact with a well-equipped base is unlikely to be so great that it can cause damage insulation.
Even a layer of thermal insulation of the required thickness is laid (item 5). The illustration shows installation in one layer, but usually this is not enough - at least two are required. But this is for the better - the slabs or mats of the upper layer cover the joints of the lower one, and there are practically no cold bridges left.
Next is a mandatory condition: a layer of reliable vapor barrier (item 6). The humidity level indoors during the cold season is always significantly higher than outside. And so that water vapor, looking for any loophole to escape outside, does not penetrate into the insulation, it is necessary to install a reliable hermetically sealed (without exaggeration) barrier.
And finally, a plank or plywood (OSB) floor covering is laid on top (item 7). In the diagram, again, a simplification has been made, but in reality it is recommended to leave a ventilation gap of about 20÷30 mm between the vapor barrier membrane and the flooring. This is easy to do by installing additional counter batten slats along the joists - they will additionally press the membrane and provide the required clearance.
It is clear that the thickness of the insulation with such a scheme must be calculated in advance, since in this case it also directly affects the choice of the cross-section of lumber for beams and joists. You will have to carry out a not particularly complex thermal calculation.
How to calculate the thickness of insulation of a wooden floor on joists?
A special article on the portal will introduce you to the algorithm for carrying out such calculations. It also contains a convenient calculation calculator.
One more nuance. To protect the insulation from mice getting into it, you can also use a metal mesh. It is mounted directly on the subfloor boards under the waterproofing layer. The edges of the mesh are raised onto the wall 100÷150 mm above the thickness of the insulation. After laying the insulation, the mesh is folded onto its surface. After this, the insulation on top is completely covered with the same mesh - it is attached to the joists with staples. Perhaps such measures may seem unnecessary to some, but it really helps if you don’t leave any loopholes for the mice.
Insulation of wooden floors on joists
This section of the article provides step-by-step illustrated instructions for insulating floors with mineral wool.
The most important thing in insulating a wooden floor raised above the ground by 300 - 500 mm is the choice of the optimal material and its high-quality, according to all the rules, installation
The first thing you need to check when deciding to insulate such a floor is the presence of ventilation in the underground space. If there are no vents in the basement of the foundation, then they need to be equipped. Lack of ventilation with such floor insulation will lead to the appearance of dampness in the underground space, rotting of wooden structural elements, and their infection by fungus.
You might be interested in information on how to choose
The total area of all vents must be at least 1/400 of the floor area of the first floor, but not less than 0.85 m². The area of one vent is usually around 0.05 m². that is, it is easy to calculate the required number and then think about their uniform placement on the base. In this case, the outer vents should be located no further than 0.9 m from the corners of the foundation. one more thing important condition– symmetry of their placement, that is, the vent on one wall should correspond to a similar one on the opposite. Thus, their number is usually even.
However, we again delved into general construction issues - let’s return to floor insulation.
So, insulating an old wooden floor (if we're talking about not about installing a new one during construction) can be done in several ways:
- Using old plank flooring as a subfloor. This option is possible if the boards are in good condition, that is, they do not have signs of rotting and are not moistened with inside. In addition, it must be taken into account that the floors will rise by approximately 250 mm. If the ceilings in the room are high enough, then insulation using the old coating, without dismantling it, seems possible. But, to be honest, they rarely resort to this route.
- The second option involves dismantling the plank covering and laying insulation under it. In this case, the removed floorboards, if they are in satisfactory condition, can then be returned to their place. If the boards are intended to be reused, then when dismantling, it is recommended to number them.
Naturally, if a new floor is being built, then they start from scratch, that is, with the installation of the subfloor - and then in order.
Below we will consider an insulation option in which the old floor is dismantled. Moreover, if insulation is carried out in an old house, an inspection of the underground space, as well as the reliability of the floor beams, will never be superfluous.
For work you will need the following materials:
- Insulation material. In this case it is mineral wool. As practice shows, and calculations confirm, in private houses in most regions of Russia it is recommended to lay this insulation with a thickness of at least 150, or even 200 mm. this usually involves a minimum of two layers.
- Boards or plywood for installing the subfloor. A board 10 mm thick and 150 mm wide will be quite sufficient.
- Beam for counter-battens with a cross-section, for example, 30×50 mm. The larger size should correspond to the thickness of the joist or floor beam.
- Waterproofing vapor-permeable membrane.
- Vapor barrier material.
- Self-tapping screws and staples for the stapler.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | So, having dismantled the boardwalk, you can see the floor beams and evaluate the possibilities of further work. If the floor beams are in good condition, then the first thing to do is cover them with an antiseptic solution on all sides and let the coating dry well. |
 | Next, you can choose one option out of two - fix it using self-tapping screws on load-bearing beams skull blocks on which the subfloor boards will be laid, or fasten the boards to the bottom of the floor beams. Each option has its drawbacks. When fixing the cranial elements, the space for installing insulation will decrease. |
 | Securing boards from the bottom of floor beams, in principle, has no disadvantages, except for the labor-intensive nature of the work. If the height from the ground to the beams is small, then installation will have to be done while lying on your back. The subfloor is only needed to support the insulation material, so it is not necessary to make it continuous or lay planks too often. The distance between them can be even 200÷250 mm. And the boards can be used even without edged ones. But they require antiseptic treatment no less. |
 | Another option for arranging a subfloor is to fasten transverse boards to the beams in increments of 700÷800 mm, and then lay a longitudinal plank covering on them. Moreover, gaps of 10÷15 mm can also be left between the longitudinal boards. Gaps are necessary for proper ventilation of the insulation. |
 | In some cases, OSB plywood sheets 10 mm thick are used for the subfloor. However, a gap must be left between the sheets every 500 mm for ventilation. Therefore, you will have to prepare pieces of plywood 500÷600 mm long and a width equal to the distance between the centers of adjacent floor beams (joists). As a rule, it is 600 mm - according to the traditional size of mineral wool insulation. |
 | The next step is to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing and wind protection on the subfloor. It is laid to protect the mineral wool from water ingress (which is extremely unlikely in such conditions), as well as from wind, which will penetrate into the underground through ventilation ducts. The membrane sheets should go around the floor beams. They overlap each other by 100÷150 mm. It is not necessary to tape these overlaps with tape; there is no need for tightness. |
 | It is necessary to focus on securing the membrane to the walls. The material should be on them 50÷70 mm higher than the thickness of the insulation. On wooden walls, the membrane is secured with staples, and on surfaces made of other materials - with double-sided construction tape. It is still recommended to isolate the insulation from possible contact with the walls. |
 | Next, the insulation material is laid. It is important to observe several nuances here. The slabs are most often laid in two layers, and the top one must overlap the joints of the lower insulation. The standard width of insulation slabs is 600 mm, and it must be laid spaced against the floor beams, so the optimal width between the beams in the clear is approximately 550÷570 mm (just along the axes - 600 mm, and due to the thickness of the beam, the clearance is slightly reduced) . However, it is not always possible to follow this step, so the slabs often have to be “replenished” with additional fragments. Their joints must also be covered with entire slabs of the top layer. |
 | A vapor barrier material is laid on top of the insulation and secured with staples to the floor beams. This layer is necessary to protect the insulation from the penetration of various fumes from the premises. The canvases are also laid with an overlap of 100÷150 mm (on the membranes the minimum width of such an overlap is often even marked in dotted lines). But here the requirements for sealing are strict: the canvases must be glued together along the overlap line with moisture-resistant tape. |
 | Then, if you plan to create a ventilation gap between the board covering and the vapor barrier (and this is highly recommended), then slats 25÷30 mm thick are attached to the ends of the beams on top of the vapor barrier sheet. Some craftsmen refuse this design element and consider it optional. But it is better not to neglect such ventilation - condensation will not accumulate on the vapor barrier membrane. |
The insulation is complete - and you can install a board covering or a plywood or OSB flooring on top. But these are questions beyond the scope of our consideration.
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Now, having at hand several options for floor insulation schemes various materials, it will be possible to choose the most suitable way for a specific case. By adhering to the recommendations received and strictly following the technology, it is quite possible to independently carry out thermal insulation of floors in own home. At the same time, not only saving a decent amount for the family budget, but also gaining confidence that the work was done conscientiously.
In conclusion, we invite you to watch an interesting video. In it, a completely amateur craftsman independently insulates the floors of his house under construction. Honestly, there is a lot to learn.
When installing floors directly on ground rocks, certain regulations must be observed. Design features Such buildings can significantly reduce the load on the foundation. But in this situation you will need to pay attention Special attention groundwater. Only a well-designed project and high-quality thermal and waterproofing will help prevent moisture from penetrating into the object and keeping it warm.
In the existing regulatory documentation The heat transfer resistance of floors is not separately regulated and is equal to the values obtained on the walls of buildings, and the method and order of laying insulating layers is chosen depending on the availability basements. If the house has one, a smaller thickness of the thermal insulation layer is allowed (the level of soil freezing remains higher), but it must be laid on waterproofing, since groundwater can appear at any time. Insulation of floors in a private house is carried out more thoroughly than in buildings for other purposes.
In rooms without a basement, the installation of thermal insulation is carried out arbitrarily, since maximum depth freezing may have different levels in relation to the floor plane. When the water is far away, you can use moisture-proof anti-capillary waterproofing; when it’s close, you will need roofing material or a film membrane, which are best placed at the same levels with. It is also necessary to connect the moisture-proof waterproofing of the floor and the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation walls adjacent to the floor. This is achieved by overlap (10 cm on roofing felt with mastic, 20 cm on a film membrane).
Recommended sequence of work when insulating floors in a private house
Floor installation on soil rocks requires a clear sequence of operations:
- Preparing the base.The plant layer and part of the continental rock are removed.
- Soil compaction.Fractions of crushed stone, crushed brick or gravel are compacted into dry soil, and rich clay or crushed stone spilled with bitumen is introduced into wet soil.
- Leveling the surface.Sand is poured and compacted in a layer of 5-10 cm. The concrete screed is poured with B10-B15 solution.
- Insulation.When the concrete mass has completely hardened, waterproofing is applied to it, which is covered with insulation.
The insulation on top is again made with a thickness of at least 40-50 mm. For additional reinforcement, steel plates can be used or plastic mesh. Laying compensation tape will help prevent possible cracking and the impact of impact noise on adjacent structures. At large area base (more than 25-30 m2) it is divided into several smaller sections, dividing the surface with equal expansion joints.
Common materials used for insulating floors in a private home
Conventional ones are used both for insulating floors in a private house (PSB-S-35) and for their arrangement in parking lots or garages (PSB-S-50). When equipping such a floor, gravel (30 cm or more) is poured and a concrete screed (10 cm) is made so that the subsequent waterproofing layer is at the same levels as the horizontal waterproofing of the adjacent walls. Having laid the PSB (at least 10 cm), it is covered with a reinforced cement screed, on top of which you can lay floor coverings. It is possible to lay waterproofing on top of the insulation, but its level must also coincide with the location of the wall insulation of the building. The advantages include low water absorption and good accessibility of the material, the disadvantages are its destruction under the influence of resins and mastics in an organic solvent.
They are distinguished by greater density and hardness. Their structural cells are closed, due to which the material is much stronger than ordinary polystyrene.
They are good for insulating floors even in facilities with high traffic and difficult operating conditions (in industrial workshops, in public institutions). Laying slabs directly on gravel is allowed. A layer of 8 cm is enough. Roofing material can serve as waterproofing. The top of the insulation is covered with 10 cm of concrete screed. It is convenient to use the slabs at high groundwater, but they are also afraid of resins and mastics based on organic solvents.
Polyurethane foam boards for insulation of floors on the ground, they are characterized by a solid closed cellular structure of a homogeneous nature. For their production, PUR or PIR polyurethane is used. The material may be covered with aluminum foil or fiberglass. This allows you to increase its vapor permeability and heat conservation. The slabs have significant water absorption, which leads to the need to lay moisture-proof waterproofing underneath them. The required thickness of such insulation rarely exceeds 7 cm.
They are practically not used for floor insulation in buildings on ground. For such cases, only certain varieties of this material are selected that have maximum hardness, as well as high density and deformation resistance. Pre-treatment with a water-repellent agent helps reduce the water absorption rate of the slabs. When insulating floors in a private house, they also completely waterproof the slabs from external influences. The material is fire-resistant and absorbs noise well, but requires quality protection from moisture.
Expanded clay in bulk- a multifunctional material that can replace thermal insulation, concrete screed and gravel during construction. If the layer is thick enough, waterproofing is also not needed. Expanded clay is interesting for its fractions of 8-16 and 10-20 mm. It is poured to the stated thickness, but it is better to take more to compact it in separate layers (10-15 mm). To facilitate subsequent actions, the top is fixed with cement. The material is poured with a liquid cement-sand mixture (3-4 cm), and after hardening it is covered with waterproofing and equipped with a concrete screed (6-10 cm) for laying the floor.
Bags with expanded clay- used for arranging floors on the ground in rooms without the need for insulation. Lay flat to each other. The same fraction of expanded clay is poured into the remaining voids. The method is used in garages, sheds and utility rooms. By changing the thickness of the layer, it is possible to change the heat transfer resistance of the material. On top, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing coating (roofing felt, roofing felt) and a reinforced concrete screed, made in a similar way to the previous options.
Granulates- by-products of metal smelting and other combined products. Granulated slag grains (5-10 mm) have strength, lightness and good thermal insulation properties. They are laid following the example of expanded clay, but with high groundwater they require an additional drainage ditch around the perimeter of the building. Slag also replaces several lower layers at once. It is covered following the example of expanded clay.
Foam glass in blocks- good to use for flooring on the ground under ceramic tiles. Gravel (up to 10 cm) is poured and a concrete screed is poured. Using polymer-mineral glue or bitumen mastic blocks are laid. You can perform several layers with each one drying well. Next, the material is covered with waterproofing: roofing felt, hot bitumen and plastic film, and under the tiles a concrete screed of 8-10 cm is made.
It is necessary to select the type of material depending on the purpose, availability, cost, operating conditions and category of the room.
