In order to protect from rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot rapidly. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops “breathing” and fungus appears.
A more reliable solution is to use modern plastic lining (PV), plus proper ventilation walls. You can even lay insulation.
Here is a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air penetrates through the ventilation hatch into the space between the sheathing and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. At the same time, it is important that ventilation gap was at least 1-2 cm.
We cover it on top with fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it with nails and plastic washers (cut from 4x4 cm sticks). We place copper wire under the washers, tying the fabric.
We nail plaster shingles in the center. Caring for the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries out properly, and close it in the winter.
Attention!
Use polystyrene foam, pressed glass wool slabs and mineral wool You can't use aluminum foil - these are airtight coatings.
Decorating the walls of an adobe house and ventilation device: drawings
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Those living in adobe buildings note that due to the high massiveness and thermal inertia of the walls made of heavy adobe, they are cool in summer, and in winter, fluctuations in outside temperature have little effect on the temperature in the house. However, walls made of heavy material are not always energy efficient enough, and they have to be insulated.
Heavy monolithic walls or made of blocks can be as strong as brick
A wall made of heavy adobe, dense and without voids (density 1200-1600 kg/m³), is close in its thermal conductivity to effective (hollow) brick or foam concrete (depending on the ratio of clay and straw in the material) and has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.3- 0.6 W/(m × oC).
The higher the straw content it contains, the warmer it will be.
In the conditions of Ukraine, the thickness of a wall with such thermal conductivity of the material should be about a meter, which is difficult to implement and unprofitable in terms of labor costs.
Therefore, a wall of heavy adobe is usually made 40-50 cm thick, and then insulated and plastered.
Adobe requires application vapor-permeable insulation. Expanded polystyrene is excluded, mineral wool enthusiasts adobe construction considered unecological.
Experts recommend using reeds (reeds), which do not absorb moisture, do not rot, and have a tubular structure with air inside the stems. It is used in the form of mats, laid in a layer of at least 10 cm and firmly fixed to the wall with dowels.
Light adobe contains a lot of straw, so it cannot be used for construction. load-bearing structures and requires a frame.
Apply 2-3 cm of clay or lime plaster(the latter is more durable).
The coldest places in any home are the corners.
The advantage of adobe technology is the ability to avoid problem areas, having done rounded corners external walls, slightly increase their thickness.
Light adobe
Walls made of lightweight material do not have high inertia, but have high energy-saving ability (at a density of 500 kg/m³ and below, the material can be used as a heat insulator).
Their thickness can be 25 cm, but it is possible to blow through (like shell rock) and, as a rule, the walls are made 30-40 cm thick. The denser the adobe is compacted, the warmer the structure.
Due to the fact that the wall structure has a frame, the density of light adobe can be significantly reduced, achieving high level thermal insulation at thin wall. Even with a wall thickness of 25 cm, the house does not require insulation.
However, in this case it is important to use durable plaster and avoid the formation of cracks in order to avoid through blowing.
Gaps can occur when the material is not laid tightly and shrinks around window frames, in places where adobe comes into contact with the frame, when the plaster cracks. However, they are easy to cover up and renew the plaster ( adobe house easy to repair).
To insulate the floor in a house, expanded clay or light adobe is usually used.
Good afternoon I ask for help in repairing and insulating the old adobe house. The house was built in 1937. Adobe size 20x20x40. Over the years it has become so dense that it has become like stone. There was a need to disassemble part of the corner - we could barely do it, the adobe blocks were so firmly attached to each other. But the house is cold. The windows were replaced with modern ones, the slopes and window sills were sealed to perfection - there is no draft from them anywhere. The house is lined with rubbish bricks. The foundation is also adobe. The floor is cold. Heating is from a boiler - there are radiators in the rooms and PVC pipes. But even with a frost of 10 degrees, the walls are cold. How to insulate a house?
Olga, Salsk, Rostov region.
Hello, Olga from Salsk, Rostov region!
Unfortunately, I can’t be of any real help other than advice. You live too far from me for me to come to you with my workers and try to rectify the situation.
From existing practice I can say the following. There are buildings that, no matter how much they insulate, they still remain cold.
And in order to create indoors comfortable temperature, it is necessary to have a constantly working powerful heating system. Which is associated with high costs of fuel or other energy resources.
Let's first step back and think purely theoretically.
You have a fairly strong adobe house lined on the outside with bricks set on edge, which was done to make it more beautiful design outside. Most likely between adobe and brickwork there is no insulation. As a result, the walls form an array that accumulates temperature regime, which is dictated mainly by the external temperature background.
It is clear that heating internal space slightly increases the temperature of the walls, but not sufficiently. In addition, the temperature inside the room is significantly influenced by the surfaces of the ceiling (indirectly and attic space and roof) and floor.
Based on these tedious theoretical conclusions, it follows that in order for the temperature inside the house to be bearable for living even in the very cold season, it is necessary to insulate, or rather isolate the flow of cold on all these surfaces. Including windows and doors, which are conductors of cold.
You write that the windows are made to last and the cold does not pass through them. Doors facing the street should also have thermal curtains, and in short - adapter vestibules or something like curtains were built.
Therefore, all that remains is to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling.
Most often, when covering adobe walls with bricks in problem houses, insulation is placed between the adobe and the brick. Since you have not done this, you should insulate according to one of two options. Or outside the house. Or inside the house. The second option is most likely suitable for your case. Because if you do insulation from the outside, you will be tormented by heating the heating system.
Ideally, insulation in such cases is done as follows. The walls are covered with clapboard, which is mounted on beacons (cranial block with a cross-section of 75/50 millimeters). Insulation 50 millimeters thick is laid between the beacons. Then an air gap of 25 millimeters is left between the insulation and the lining. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film on both sides. The distance between beacons is usually made 600 millimeters, a multiple of the size of most insulation.
That is, once again and in order, the whole technology of wall insulation.
On adobe walls fasten vapor barrier film. Beacons 75/50 are attached to the walls with self-tapping anchors and installed on the edge. Between the beacons, insulation is attached with “fungi” (screws with plates or special purchased ones). A second layer of film is mounted on the beacons. An air gap of 25 millimeters is obtained between it and the insulation. The clapboard is nailed down (instead, other materials such as plywood, various panels, slabs, etc. can be installed)
The insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is carried out using the same method as the insulation of walls. Besides, in attic space the floor can also be insulated by laying insulation (from expanded clay to mineral slabs or rolls).
Floor insulation is a special matter. This insulation is sometimes more important than wall insulation, since there is not always a warm basement or underground under the house. If possible, then both the base and the ceiling above the basement are insulated approximately according to the same scheme as described above. If there is no trace of a basement or subfloor, then a radical alteration is not ruled out. When the entire old floor is exposed to a decent depth.
That is, floor boards and joists are dismantled, soil is removed to a certain depth. After which a new floor is installed in the form of a layer cake. The soil is leveled, waterproofing made of roofing felt or its analogues is laid. Approximately a 15 cm layer of expanded clay is poured. Then reinforced concrete screed thickness from 5 centimeters or more. Floor joists are laid and antisepticized. Laying the floor.
It is clear that all this is quite a long process in terms of time and material costs. It is associated with many inconveniences in removing furniture or dragging it from place to place so as not to interfere with work. Possible pipe dismantling heating system and its batteries, since it is necessary to move them from the old walls by 75 millimeters plus the thickness of the wall material. The internal usable volume of the room will also decrease by double this size. It is also possible to reduce the height of the room by lowering the ceiling surface and raising the floor.
But ultimately, the thermal conditions inside the room increase and you will feel much better than before.
There are, of course, many other insulation options. But the one given is the most frequently used.
Other questions on the topic of adobe houses.
