The rack is a very common household item. Its main advantage is ergonomic and aesthetic: it is “airy”, visually it slightly compresses the space of the room, which is essential in small apartments, and when zoning premises and in housing of any class. The designs of the shelving are not complicated, they don’t require a lot of work, and at least for those who live on a budget, it makes perfect sense to build them themselves.
To make a rack with your own hands, you first need to decide on its purpose. In addition to purely utilitarian shelving in garages, basements, workshops, and on balconies (which will also be given due attention further), in residential premises shelving is used primarily as storage general purpose for small items, pos. 1 in Fig. In second place in demand are bookshelves, pos. 2. Second-hand book dealers and librarians know well that a book should breathe in closed closet won't live long.
Followed by corner racks(pos. 3) into a restless corner, which sooner or later forms in any habitable apartment. Using a shelving unit, you can create a work area, mini-boudoir, etc. here. Finally, shelving racks are widely used for zoning space, pos. 4, and a shelving cabinet in cases where, using a regular cabinet, you would often have to open several doors at once, pos. 5.
Note: shelving for special purposes - for toys, in the kitchen, for flowers, tools, etc. - does not fit into the household classification and will be considered separately.
The last cases are the most difficult from the point of view of furniture design. The rack for zoning must be especially strong, stable and, preferably, attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent wall. In order for a rack-cabinet to be equal in strength to its cabinet counterpart, it must, firstly, contain a central rigid box (perhaps not full height) in the power circuit; secondly, its side sections must be strictly symmetrical, as shown in Fig.
Power circuits
Wooden
A wooden rack most often does not have a back panel and solid vertical partitions, so its proper reliability is achieved by slightly different means than that of cabinet furniture. Box-shaped racks have a fairly strong and openwork design. Their sidewalls are not necessarily solid panels; they can be made up of flexible rods (broom effect) or beams and slats, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. Such racks are most suitable for zoning.
Where appearance It doesn’t matter how important it is, and the workloads are small (linen, shoes, etc.), it is better to make a frame rack, pos. 3; These are the least labor- and material-intensive. Loaded shelves in them can be included in the power circuit anywhere vertically and therefore they can be rearranged.
Beam racks (item 4) are similar in appearance to frame ones, and the shelves can also be positioned according to the contents, but the frame itself works differently and is much stronger: beam racks are among the available home handyman materials are capable of bearing a load of approximately 800 kg per linear meter shelf length. The price is higher than that of frame ones, labor intensity and material consumption.
A cantilever wooden rack does not have separate load-receiving, distributing and load-bearing elements; This is, in general, a complexly broken strip of material, the loads in which spread as necessary. It can have the most elaborate configuration and therefore cantilever racks are widespread in stylish design interior However, they are suitable only for light things and are more or less durable only at the corners, pos. 5, or with reinforcements metal pipes, see below. However, the cantilever rack gave rise to modular racks, which, with no less aesthetic advantages and the possibility of flexible layout, are quite durable.
Modular shelving can be either prefabricated or stacked. The basis of the first 3 elements: grille, pos. 7, box, pos. 8, and ladder, pos. 9. From them you can select products of the most bizarre type, if only you have your imagination, and the step of the dimensional grid during design is the same. A hybrid stands out in this row: a lattice of boxes assembled by a ladder, rotated 45 degrees, pos. 9. The strength is exceptional; from modules of this type, you can assemble long, with corners, room zone dividers without messing with the floor and ceiling.
Stacked modular shelving is made from flat (item 10) and volumetric, item. 11, modules. Flat in in this case this does not mean that they are completely devoid of volume, but that they have useful volume, i.e. capacity, they themselves do not have. Flat elements typesetting racks, as a rule, have a complex configuration and are purchased ready-made. On their own, amateurs mostly make stacked shelving from three-dimensional box modules. Connect modules double-sided tape, Velcro, pairs of clothing snaps, etc.
Relatives of the lattice module are cantilever racks, i.e. with overhanging shelves, pos. 12. They are the most “airy”, so they are most often placed in the hallway small area. One of the design options for a cantilever shelving in the hallway is shown in Fig. on right. Pipe stands can be replaced laminated chipboards or boards with a cross section of 150x18 mm, located as in pos. 12.
The box module gave birth to transforming racks of the “Varna” type, pos. 13. There is no transformation mechanism, as well as hinges: “Varna” is simply placed as it should. The required rigidity is ensured by the presence of a strong back wall of all drawers and the choice of material – class E1 laminated chipboard.
A bridge circuit rack, pos. 14. With the same load-bearing capacity as a beam, it is less material-intensive; concentrated loads can be placed in the middle of the A-shaped posts, and long lengths can be placed on top. In everyday life, a bridge rack can also find a place for itself. Look, for example, what kind of rack people endowed with imagination and ingenuity made from a pair of old crutches, poses. 15. Crutches, by the way, can be replaced with slats 15-20 mm thick made of hard, durable and resilient wood: oak, beech, hornbeam, birch.
Note: the same rack is also suitable for flowers (see below), because his structural elements little noticeable.
On metal
Metal is more elastic than wood and is subject to plastic deformation, which is why it is generally more difficult to calculate and create spatial structures from it than wooden ones. Therefore, a metal rack is built without taking into account the interaction of the base with the shelves, which can be made of any material. Metal racks are assembled mainly using the least material-intensive frame and cantilever schemes, because metal is stronger than wood.
Heavy, bulky, costly, requiring difficult fitting and welding, racks made from angle iron or corrugated pipes are still being made, probably due to inertia. These days it is easier, easier and cheaper to assemble a shelving unit from a profile. Special thin-walled shelving, it is available in a wide range. You will need a perforated profile for the racks and a solid corrugated one for the shelf frames. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws, and during assembly they are held in place by clamps, pos. 1 in Fig. The structure is protected from distortion by X-shaped ties at the rear, pos. 2; A special profile is produced for them. Such racks hold a load of 400 or more kg/linear. m, and the frame is assembled by 1 person for an hour or two.
For a balcony, the load-bearing capacity of a special profile rack is excessive. Balconies/loggias are designed for a load of 1.2-1.6 tf; glazing produces several hundred kgf, plus furniture and people. So the shelving on the balcony can and should be made simpler, lighter and cheaper.
This is where the profile for commodity racks, the so-called, comes in handy. trade. For regular balcony width approx. 1 m will be enough for a pair of vertical U-shaped ties with brackets, pos. 3. Under maximum load – 3-4 verticals. A wide range of fittings are sold for the trade profile, but in addition to the verticals, we only need brackets. They are produced with the number of mounting paws from 2 to 5, but since it will still not be socks and panties lying on the rack, you need to take at least 3 paws; highlighted in color at pos. 4. The verticals are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws (4.2-6)x(60-80) in propylene dowels with a pitch of 70-150 mm, and the brackets are simply inserted into the profile.
About pipes in racks...
Pipe-based shelving industrial production quite expensive, because shaped fittings and fastening units are used, on the left in Fig. They look a bit dry, so they are mostly used in offices. Hobbyists most often reinforce cantilevered racks in the center with pipe inserts. In this case, the support heels are purchased ready-made or machined to order.
To tighten the inserts, oak or, better yet, propylene plugs are tightly driven into them at the ends. In the first case, the seam between the pipe and the plug is spilled with superglue (cyanoacrylate), and in the second, oblique notches are made on the inside of the pipe with a file and a plug with a diameter slightly larger than the internal diameter of the pipe is pressed in, heated with industrial phenome until plasticity begins. More precisely, the pipe is pressed: as soon as the cork begins to soften, it is placed on a hard surface and a pipe heated in the same stream from a hairdryer is put on it. In any case, everything is tightened with self-tapping screws.
If the design requires connecting pipes in parallel and end-to-end (T-shape), as on the right in the figure, it is not at all necessary to spend money on shaped clamps. The pipes are connected in parallel simply with metal screws, and end-to-end - as described above, with a plug.
...and about the pipe rack
A special case is a rack in the cellar. Steel rusts, wood rots and molds. Here a rack of pipes is most appropriate, but not steel, but propylene pipes. How to make a rack from PP pipes in the cellar, see the video below.
Video: do-it-yourself rack made of pipes (plastic)
Connections
Hidden connections on dowels, blind tenon/groove, etc. furniture in racks turn out to be not reliable enough, and nothing really holds onto the dowels at all. The reason is the insufficient number of intersecting stiffeners combined with a small supporting area and high location center of gravity (CG).
If the rack is in a utility room/utility room, it’s okay: they are connected with self-tapping screws, steel corners, etc. with metal fasteners. But with residential shelving, you have to get creative to hide the more secure exposed connections. For shelving on a frame, the simplest way is to hide the fastener heads under the shelves, on the left in the figure, by moving them (the shelves) above the support frames. The front edges are then refined with strips of laminated chipboard on dowels, as described below.
If the rack is entirely made of boards or plywood, then its parts cut into each other halfway, as on the right in Fig. Please note that the grooves in the shelves are made from the back. Then the vertical posts will be kept from sagging by their front edges, and the rear ones by diamond-shaped pads approximately 70x70 mm made of any sufficiently durable material: plywood, plastic, metal.
In the case when the rack has a solid frame along the contour, it is best to replace the individual “nickels” with a solid sheet of 4-6 mm fiberboard. Then the outer parts are made wider by the thickness of the fiberboard, a rebate is selected in them, and the sheets of the back sheathing are secured with small self-tapping screws with press washers. There should be hardware for each corner and crosshair, and between them - in increments of 70-250 mm, so that they are evenly distributed.
Note: in some cases (see below), a modular cardboard rack will work well. Then there is no need to fuss around, reinforcing the adhesive joints with wooden pins, such as, for example. in cardboard shelves: horizontal and vertical parts cut into each other halfway, as in fig. Glued with PVA, such a joint is quite reliable.
About the base
Does the rack need a plinth? Definitely, and not just for hygiene reasons. Especially the kitchen one, which is pushed more often, and wet, breakable, greasy, loose things are stored in it.
In a rack without a plinth or with a plinth without being moved forward, the projection of its CPU falls on the center of the support (CO). With an accidental impact, the overturning moment will be directed anywhere, on the left in Fig. If the base is offset by at least 7-10 cm, then the overturning moment is always directed towards the wall, in the center. An example of a kitchen shelving unit made taking this into account is shown on the right, and due to the skillfully chosen design, the removal of the base is invisible.
Various racks
Garage
The first place where you can’t do without a rack is the garage, at least for seasonal tires. You can’t keep it abandoned haphazardly. However standard width a garage of 4 m is not at all superfluous if the car doors are wide open. Therefore, in addition to being durable and convenient, a garage rack must be compact. Drawings of one of the options are shown in Fig. All parts, including shelf hinges, are made independently from 30x30 timber, plywood and 6-8 mm steel rod.
And in Fig. on the right - the garage rack is not folding, but modular waste material: scraps of boards, plywood, timber. It is not necessary to connect them with through bolts; Apparently, the author of the design had them in abundance. Self-tapping screws will also work; you need to wrap them from the side of the plywood/board into the timber. It is better to make 4 dips on top, according to the number of replaceable tires.
Book
Books provide a significant and, importantly, stable static load. A collection of 3,500 volumes (more can fit in an ordinary apartment without compromising everyday amenities) amounts to about a ton. Therefore, the bookcase should be:
- Durable.
- On the plinth, with or without removal, moisture should be prevented from getting on the books during cleaning.
- From plywood from 18 mm or solid boards from 24 mm – laminated chipboard does not support long-term static loads, it bends.
How it works bookcase, shown in the figure below. In the power circuit, in addition to the base, bottom and roof, at least 2 firmly fixed shelves are constantly connected, evenly spaced in height. The notches for the adjustable ones are spaced in 5” increments, which is equal to twice the size of the printing module. This allows volumes to be placed from in folio to in duodecimo, and pocket editions are stored separately in a mini-rack; perhaps cardboard.
Key manufacturing points are given on the right in the same figure:
- The backdrop is sewn with fiberboard so that the books and the wall do not wear out each other;
- The sides, on plywood pads, are sheathed with laminated chipboard or a second layer of plywood, resulting in 2 flat boxes, bringing the overall rigidity to the required level;
- The edges are overlapped decorative overlays 100-150 mm high on dowels in milled grooves and glue. In addition to the rigidity of the shelves against deflection, the linings provide a microclimate on the shelves that is favorable for books.
Note: The width of the shelves is approx. 30 cm. Storing books in 2 rows is inconvenient and not useful for them.
Toy
Children need to explore the world to become adults. The simplest way research - break it down and see what's inside. Or what will happen, besides the beating and punishment that goes without saying. Keeping this fact in mind, a children's toy rack can be made in 2 ways.
The first is “fool proof”, the rack is especially durable. An example of a practical design of this kind is on the left in the figure: a symmetrical shelving cabinet with a plywood back.
The second is to give him/them free rein and let them break it. But really, so that intelligence, coordination of movements, spatial imagination and, in general, the ability to handle things develop. Here the optimum is a modular, collapsible rack, on the right in the figure, let them configure it in their own way.
So that you don’t feel sorry for them if they suddenly break completely, and so that you don’t injure yourself, the parts are made in the same way as cardboard shelves:
- Spread polyethylene (PE) film on a flat surface;
- The raw materials (initial sheets) are laid out on it and impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE);
- When dry, turn over and soak on the other side;
- Blanks (plates) for parts are cut out with an internal cardboard corrugation oriented mutually perpendicular in adjacent layers;
- The corrugations of the outer layers should be oriented along the long side of the part;
- If there are 5 layers, then the corrugations are oriented with a rotation of 45 degrees: 0 (along) – 45 (obliquely) – 90 (across) – 135 (obliquely in reverse side) – 180 (again along);
- Glue the PVA all at once without waiting until it sticks and cover with PE film;
- Maintain for 2-3 days under a low temperature of 3-5 kg/sq. m, with pressure evenly distributed over the surface; books, stacks of old newspapers, magazines, etc. are convenient for this.
Shoe
From the point of view of the safety and durability of shoes (which is clearly felt at current prices from a budget point of view), you need 2 shoe racks: in a small “dirty” shoe, “shake” the shoes before cleaning, otherwise dust/dirt will be rubbed into the leather/fabric, which will seriously reduce its service life. Grains of sand are especially harmful here. Then, in a larger “clean” rack, shoes that are out of season or not particularly popular are stored in conditions that promote their durability.
There are no problems with a “dirty” rack; it is a small box with lattice shelves, even rope ones, as in Fig. A “clean” space can be a shoe rack or a shoe cabinet with folding shelves in the hallway. However, if in the house you can fence off, if not a dressing room, but at least some nook with an even microclimate, the shoes will only be better for it.
A drawing of a rack for long-term shoe storage is shown in the following. rice. Construction – economical frame made of 20x20 slats; stacked lattice shelves. If you remove 1 section with a width of 375, this rack will fit even in the closets of the notorious Khrushchev two-room apartments.
Instrumental
The simplest tool rack is a board with clips where tools are placed, nails/hooks and hangers on which they are attached, on the left in Fig. For small tools - a board with holes where they are inserted with handles, in the center. But much more economical and practical is the old-fashioned way of making a tool rack from scrap boards and pieces of rubber (preferably reinforced durite) hose, on the right. And safer: the likelihood that the tool will fall out and you will have to hit your leg with a blade or prick your hand on the jaws is almost zero.
Floral
Rack for indoor plants must, firstly, open them all to the light; secondly, do not visibly replace flowers and greenery. Single-post racks (two positions on the left in the figure) are “generally airy,” but their openwork appearance is quite difficult technologically and their stability is low. Much simpler and more reliable is a flower rack, 1- and 2-sided, two positions. on right.
More complicated, but allows placement in the same area more plants and the pyramid bookcase, pos., is almost invisible behind them. 1 in Fig. on right. If you spend more on the material and make it solid from plywood, like pos. 2, then it will be possible to keep even antagonistic plants in one place, i.e. cannot stand being next to each other.
Many people keep flowers on their balconies, even setting up greenhouses for orchids there. In this case, a bookcase, the drawings of which are given on the left side, will come in handy. rice. The space inside the rack is not wasted: it houses a weak, 50-80 W electric heater that heats primarily with thermal radiation. It can be made from 2-3 incandescent lamps of 25 W, covered with a galvanized casing. It is the lack of root heating (the roots become cold, become cold and stop feeding the vegetative parts) that explains most of the failures of balcony plant culture. And from such a rack, illuminated with Flora or LD lamps, you can get cucumbers, strawberries, even tomatoes all winter
Note: on the right in the same figure. – portable spring flower rack for the garden. Can serve as a greenhouse.
For violets
Violets in this case are not forest and not pansies, and not at all related to them Saintpaulia from the Gesneriev family. They were nicknamed Uzambara violets or simply violets from their homeland - the Uzambara Mountains in South Africa. Due to their grace, miniature size and abundance of varieties, Saintpaulias have become, and deservedly so, literally iconic plants.
The culture of Gesneriaceae, among which there are many that will give orchids a head start, is a special topic. Nose technical point vision, the rack for violets must be moisture-resistant, chemically absolutely and absolutely neutral and allow the placement of lighting fixtures: the cultivation of Saintpaulia works better not on the window, but with even illumination by LDC lamps, on the left in Fig.
Shelves for a homemade shelving unit for the Saintpaulia collection can be made by gluing together 2 pieces of PVC electrical box 150 mm wide in the center. They will also serve as good light diffusers. Glue with mounting “Moment”; Dichloroethane glue (not pure dichloroethane!) is very poisonous and requires special precautions.
Assemble a rack for violets using pieces of PP pipe approx. 400 mm with inserts from the same pipes of smaller diameter and self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are driven in while warming up:
- Drill holes for them with a diameter along the body of the hardware without threads.
- Screw in until it fits tightly and evenly.
- Heat the heads of the hardware with a soldering iron (ordinary, electrical) until the plastic around it bubbles slightly.
- Screw in quickly until the head is recessed.
- The joints of the assembled rack are carefully covered with superglue for stability.
For seedlings
Racks for seedlings, especially in commercial farming, have a number of design features compared to household flowers. Which ones and how to make a rack for seedlings, see the video.
Video: DIY seedling rack
As often happens, there are more and more things in the house, but there is no place to store them. Then we begin to come up with the most unimaginable options - we put things in boxes, bags and hide them out of sight. But in fact, all you need to do is get a shelving unit.
The same principle applies in greenhouses - seedlings and seedlings need proper care and quick access, which can be provided by making a rack of bars yourself.
A greenhouse is needed so that even in the cold season you can grow vegetables and fruits, herbs and even flowers. The temperature in the greenhouse can be the same as in the subtropics, which means that with proper care you can even grow pineapples!
But mostly simpler vegetables and fruits are grown in greenhouses, which are found on markets and store shelves at any time of the year. It is convenient to grow herbs, flowers, some types of seedlings and seedlings on the shelves.
Let's take a closer look at several types of greenhouse activities:
- Greenery(see) - the cost of a bunch of greenery, of course, is not too high, however, this type of product is in demand every day, throughout the year.
When growing greens in a greenhouse, you should know that they are not picky about the conditions; it will be enough to maintain a temperature of up to 19 C O and additionally illuminate up to 14 hours a day. The period of time during which greens fully ripen is quite short, which means that when maintaining the right conditions About 10 harvests can be harvested per year.
Another advantage is that it is beneficial to grow greens on racks, because they can be planted closely together and placed in several tiers, which will save space and grow the product in large quantities.
- Flowers(see) - you can grow garden or indoor ones in a greenhouse. Garden ones are less demanding, but after cutting they have very short term implementation.
It is also worth thinking in advance about who will sell your products - will you do it yourself or sell it to resellers. Several types of plants can be placed on different racks at once, for example, one rack is completely dedicated to violets, and the other to flower seedlings.
- Saplings and seedlings it is very convenient to place on racks, but you need to know that such racks must have high sides for picking.
Building a rack for a greenhouse
In order to make a shelving unit from timber with your own hands, you do not need a lot of knowledge or extensive experience working with furniture. It will be enough to have everything at hand necessary materials and tools, and follow the algorithm of actions.
Such a rack allows you to save money, because the price of materials that are needed for self-made, significantly lower than ready-made factory furniture.
We will need:
- Wooden beam square section not less than 30 by 30 mm.
- Wooden slats to further strengthen the structure.
- Chipboards, plywood, natural wood, in general, everything that can be used to make shelves.
- Screwdriver, screws and dowels.
- Tape measure, pencil.
- Spirit level (level).
- Wood saw or electric jigsaw for greater convenience.
Important! When selecting material, do not forget that the rack will be in a greenhouse, under the influence of light, water and temperature, which means it must be strong and durable. As an option - on wooden parts a protective coating can be applied.
In this article you have the opportunity to see several photos of what preparation for work should look like.
When creating a drawing, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure and a simple pencil to choose the dimensions of the future rack that are suitable for your greenhouse. The width of the shelves can vary within different limits, but since plants will be placed on these shelves, 60-70 cm will be sufficient.
The length should be selected depending on how many seedlings you plan to place on one shelf. If its weight is too large, the long shelves will sag; to prevent this from happening, stick to the recommended length of 80-90 cm.
You can calculate the height of the proposed structure by measuring the working surfaces in the house; this is done so that the row on which you plan to replant, move or fertilize the plants corresponds to your height.
Usually the bottom shelf is made at such a height that things needed in the greenhouse can be placed under it, such as fertilizers, gloves, etc. garden tools. If you plan to place flowers on the rack, then it is better to make low sides, this will make it much easier to reach the plants.
After all wishes are taken into account and the parameters are compared, a drawing is made. Usually a schematic drawing indicating all dimensions is sufficient.
Let's move on to the main process
Further instructions are not particularly difficult. Let's start with installation - we make the load-bearing support from wooden beam, this will guarantee that the base of the rack will be strong.
In order to fix the beams with the base boards, 3 cm self-tapping screws are best suited. During the installation process, you must remember that the load-bearing supports should only be placed vertically.
When the base of the rack is finally ready, they proceed to installing the box. The material prepared for this purpose is attached to the beams at the bottom, top and sides. The result is a box, but without a back wall.
Once the box is ready, proceed to installing the shelves. For accuracy and convenience, you should make small marks on the sides of the box; they will indicate the places where the shelves will be located. The shelves are also secured using self-tapping screws, but you can choose, for example, metal corners.
Transverse bars are attached to them on top, which will support the shelves. The heaviest load usually falls on the shelves located in the middle, so perhaps it should be further strengthened.
Advice! It is worth paying attention that the self-tapping screws that are used to connect the shelf and the timber must be taken 5-6 mm larger than the thickness of the shelf.
Since the rack will be installed in a greenhouse, it does not require additional finishing, except that for longer operation the structure should be coated with protective agents. In general, the attached video in this article clearly shows the process of creating a rack from timber, which is done in several stages.
How to properly place shelving in a greenhouse
There must be aisles between the racks; there can be one or several. The width of the passage depends on whether you will use additional equipment, such as a wheelbarrow.
For normal walking, 50 cm is enough, and for a wheelbarrow - about 60 cm. When also arranging shelving, it is worth taking into account the watering system, which needs access to the plants, and the placement of additional lighting.
Usually, for such needs, one shelf on a rack is allocated, where no more than 3-4 plants should be placed. It is additionally fenced on all sides with glass, and care is taken to ensure that the lighting in the quarantine area is not too strong. If no negative changes occur in the new plants, then after a few weeks they can be transplanted to the main racks.
And in conclusion
As you can see, the process of making wooden shelving is quite simple, and even a person who has never encountered such work before can do it.
The main thing is to remember a few simple rules:
- Choose only thoroughly dried wood, with a minimum amount of moisture.
- Bitches on wooden blocks, the weakest points, therefore, the fewer there are, the stronger and more reliable the structure will be.
- Use additional wood impregnations. They will protect the tree from mold and bugs.
- Each plank must be secured with at least two screws. This is the only way to get another structure that will not wobble.
That’s basically all, you can buy all the necessary materials, prepare the tool and move on to the high title of home master.
Everything that is well folded is never lost and is quickly found. To this folk wisdom we can add that proper storage things saves space and decorates the interior.
All these arguments are an excellent reason to make a homemade shelving unit and give a decisive battle to domestic chaos and disorder. Its design is so simple that it will not become a stumbling block for a beginner. A couple of vertical frames with crossbars, shelves made of boards, plywood or chipboard - these are all the elements of a standard shelving system.
Since there are many places to install shelving (in the house, basement, veranda, garage), many options for their designs have been developed.
In our review we will look at the most interesting of them and give practical advice about how quickly and with minimal costs make such a structure.
Original options for shelving structures
Anyone who believes that a rack is a rough frame with shelves is deeply mistaken. Indeed, for the basement and garage you don’t have to imagine too much. Strength, durability and functionality are the main slogans for these premises.
For home interior On the contrary, I want to do something special and non-trivial. Therefore, home-made masters spare no time and effort to capture our imagination. A couple of oak boards and several glass bottles- that’s all you need to create an original design.
Despite its simplicity, the strength of such a rack is quite high. You can store not only books on it, but also use it to display your wine collection.
Anyone who has dealt with high shelf structures knows that without a good ladder it is impossible to reach their upper tier. Why not use shelves as steps - a resourceful person thought and created such an original system.
The classic frame shelving rests on the floor, and to install the rope shelving you only need two hooks in the wall. Of course, it won’t be possible to store heavy cans of preserved food on it, but it is perfect for books, photographs and souvenirs.
You can make a rack with your own hands so that others will appreciate your creative nature using steel water pipes and fittings. This design looks ideal in an interior designed in industrial style. In addition, it is quite appropriate in an ordinary apartment.
pay attention to original way installation of shelves. They are mounted on racks according to the principle of a children's “pyramid”, tier by tier.
Rear support posts This one doesn't have a rack. High rigidity steel pipe, reinforced with tees, allows you to dispense with them. This design can be placed anywhere: in an apartment, on the veranda, in the attic or cellar.
The manufacturing algorithm for such a rack consists of the following operations:
- We cut the timber for the racks and crossbars according to the dimensions of the drawing.
- Having laid the racks on a flat horizontal surface, we connect them to the crossbars (we use a hammer and nails or a screwdriver and self-tapping screws).
- We fix the resulting support frames to the walls of the room through metal plates.
- We cut shelves from OSB boards.
- We mount the shelves into the frame and fix them with self-tapping screws.
You can see the simplest option for assembling the sides of the rack in photo No. 8. Let us note right away that the nail connection is not the most reliable, since it does not hold the wood as firmly as self-tapping screws or confirmations.
Photo No. 9 A small wooden rack-rack consisting of two sides
A shelving frame looks more aesthetically pleasing, in which the crossbars are flush with the racks, as in wiring diagram № 3.
If the pitch of the support frames is small (50-60 cm), then you can do without installing a longitudinal bar. It will be fully replaced by an OSB board with a thickness of 18-20 mm. On a short span, it has enough rigidity to withstand a lot of weight without bending.
If you bought a thin slab or three-layer plywood, then you will have to install a longitudinal bar on each tier of the rack. It will tie the frames together and serve as a side support for the shelves. To increase the spatial rigidity of such a structure on its back wall You can secure several diagonal ties from bars.
if you have welding machine, then make a rack from metal profile, it will be easier than wooden. If there is no welding, then you will have to take an electric drill, metal drills, and stock up on bolts and nuts.
Manufacturing sequence metal rack from a corner or profile pipe is not fundamentally different from installing a wooden frame. Here, too, frames are first made, which are then leveled in vertical plane and fixed to the wall. When using thick chipboard or boards 30-40 mm thick for shelves, the rack does not need to be connected with a longitudinal profile.
In this case, the shelves rest directly on the cross members of the frames and are attached to them with metal screws. If the structure will bear a serious load, then a longitudinal stiffening belt under the shelves will not be superfluous.
Note that working with a profile pipe is more convenient and easier than working with a corner. Keep this in mind when purchasing metal. The optimal cross-section size for a square tubular profile in terms of price and strength is 25x25 mm, wall 2 mm. It is better to buy an equal angle corner measuring 40x40 mm.
A lightweight version of the design can be made using metal support brackets. They are fastened with dowels to the wall, and shelves made of boards or OSB boards are placed on top.
This solution allows you to save space under the rack for installing large items.
How to make a shelving unit for a garage and shed
An example of a simple wooden shelving unit for a garage
Drawing of a shelving unit for a garage
Wooden frame, plywood or OSB shelves. Dimensions in inches. Very practical design, any man, and even a business woman, will be able to assemble one.
How to make a shelving unit in the garage
Everything is extremely simple, the main thing is to secure the frame to the wall so that it does not fall.
How to make a shelving for a garage - connecting nodes
The shelving structure is held together with self-tapping screws, just take yellow ones, not black ones!
Video - how to make a shelving unit for a garage
This video shows how to make a simple shelving unit for your garage or shed.
Example of a shelving unit in a garage
You can lay the shelves with plywood, or OSB, or boards, whichever is more convenient for you. Additionally, I recommend getting plastic boxes for storing items, this way you will significantly increase the capacity of your rack.
Boxes can be labeled and everything in them can be stored in sorted form, so as not to waste time searching for the right thing.
Video - how to make a convenient shelving in the garage
A rack with many shelves for equipment will help you organize your space in the garage and put everything in order.
Hanging shelving option for garage
Hanging shelving in the garage
I can also suggest an option for a hanging rack using triangular spacers, or whatever you call them... There may be corners... Everything should be clear in the photo, but I’m giving you an idea, so, men, sorry if I called something wrong!
Supporting element of a hanging rack in a garage
Design wooden corner closer. It is recommended to lay boards on top for strength, or two boards on the sides, and then plywood or OSB board on them. This will also be quite reliable.
This rack design looks lighter and more beautiful due to the lack of racks, but it can also withstand much less weight. And if you plan to load your racks in the garage to the maximum, then do the first option, with racks.
Garage ceiling rack option
Ceiling rack for a cottage or garage
If your garage or shed ceilings are high enough, you can optimize storage space by additionally installing ceiling shelving. They won’t take up space, but they will allow you to significantly increase usable area for storing things.
Garage rack made of pipes and chipboard
You will need: pipes (4 pcs., diameter - 25 mm, length - 1100 mm), chipboard, flanges 28 pcs., screwdriver, self-tapping screws, electric drill, bushings for legs 4 pcs., pen drill dia. 27-30 mm, ruler, compass, pencil, edge tape.
How to make a shelving unit in the garage
1. You will need to cut four shelves measuring 60 x 28 cm from chipboard. You will need to smooth the edges and use an iron to finish them with edge tape.
3. Using a compass, mark the places where the flanges and holes are attached.
4. Screw the flanges on both sides of three shelves, and screw the fourth one from the bottom.
5. Now let's start assembling the rack. Place the top shelf upside down on the floor, insert the pipes into the flanges and tighten the clamps. We put the remaining shelves on the pipes, placing them at a distance convenient for you.
6. Now insert the bushings into the pipes and screw the legs. Insert bushings into the pipes and screw the legs.
Corner shelving idea
The example shows a good option, but it can be done without guides. We're just leftovers OSB boards sawed into triangles and placed on guides screwed into the corner.
Here I found an example of a simple corner shelf for a summer house or garage. You can store shoes and some items. Corners are usually not used, but here it turns out to be a very practical use of space.
Storage rack for long items
A great idea for storing long items is under the ceiling. There is always plenty of space there, and long pipes and slats can be safely stored in this way.
The idea of storing screws, nails and bolts in the garage and shed
All fasteners can be stored in used oil and coolant cans. They are convenient to cut and take by the handle. Additionally, you can label each container to see what exactly is stored in each.
Power tool storage shelf idea
All power tools can be stored on this convenient shelf. Material: plywood.
Idea for a storage rack for shovels, forks and rakes
And this idea is already for the utility unit. This is how you can organize the storage of shovels, rakes and forks with brushes. Convenient and nothing will fall!
Tire storage rack in garage
Like this simple idea rack rack for storing tires in the garage. Everything is clear here even without dimensions. Make the rack a little smaller than your tires and store them vertically without any problems.
Here is another country option for a garage rack
Racks for storing household supplies, tools and other necessary things will be very useful at every dacha, especially since making such a rack with your own hands will not be difficult.
Almost any type of dry wood can be used as material for making a rack, but it is better to give preference to pine.
Required parts:
Wooden slats 1200Х40Х30 – 82 pcs.
Slats 400Х40Х30 – 28 pcs.
Slats 200Х40Х30 – 30 pcs.
Wooden stands 30X30 in diameter – 60 pcs.
Flexible APV pins 2.5 sq.m. 3Х1900 in diameter – 2 pcs.; 3Х100 – 2 pcs.; 3Х900 – 2 pcs.
Wooden parts are impregnated with an anti-humidity solution. The slats are connected to each other and to the posts with flexible aluminum pins made of wire in a vinyl chloride braid.
2 transverse slats (400 mm) are laid on the floor, pins are inserted into the holes on them, the length of which corresponds to the height of the room (in our case, 1900). Pins of 0.9 are installed on the front of these slats, while their ends at the base of the slats are bent into a knot.
A longitudinal wooden slats 1.2 m, after which wooden posts are installed on the pins in front of the slats.
In this way, a rack with a height of 0.7 m is assembled, after which it is assembled into two opposite transverse slats 400 m long, having a distance of 180 mm from the end drilled holes, meter-long pins are inserted, the ends of which are tied into a knot to prevent them from falling out. Transverse slats of 200 mm are strung on pins.
To make shelves, longitudinal slats of 1.2 m are installed in the openings of the transverse slats at the required height.
Using this method, you can assemble racks of almost any size and purpose.
Shelf shelving ideas for an attic or attic
And this is already an idea for a rack shelf for an attic or attic. The space under the roof can also be used to store items that will not be in demand for a long time, but which would be a pity to throw away. The main thing is to occasionally audit such warehouses and still get rid of completely unnecessary things.
Recently I was faced with the task of purchasing a bookcase. Approximately the same design as in the photo below. 180 cm high, 80 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Naturally, the first thing I did was go to the shops, however minimum price Without delivery, 2700 rubles surprised me: it was very expensive. It seemed to me that such a rack could be purchased for around 1000 rubles.
And then they gave me an idea self-assembly. No sooner said than done. And it turned out that it is not only easy, but also interesting!
The fact is that the main material for such racks is laminated particle board(LSD chipboard), 16 mm thick. Accordingly, the first step was to determine the dimensions of the parts and find a place where it all could be cut.
Rack dimensions
It is easy to see that the rack I need consists of 9 large parts: 2 side walls, 6 transverse shelves and a white wall. Color - light beech.
As I wrote above, I needed a rack 1800*800*300 mm. Accordingly, the dimensions of the parts were as follows:
2 side walls - 1800*300 mm.
6 transverse shelves - 80*30 cm (I advise you to order this way, and not repeat my mistake: I ordered 4 out of 6 shelves measuring 798*300 mm.)
1 wall made of white fiberboard - 1750*830 mm.
A place where you can buy all this
In principle, all you have to do is type " cutting laminated chipboard"and understand where it is better and cheaper. In Petrozavodsk, for example, the company "Laminate Monza" on Kooperativnaya, 6 does this - http://mzptz.ru/.
That's where I went. Unfortunately, they don’t cut it right away; you have to wait several days.
Arriving a couple of days later with a friend by car (after all, the parts are quite large and not light), I paid 1,485 rubles for the above.
But these were not all expenses. Additionally you had to buy:
16 shelf supports 5 mm each. It's better to buy more as a reserve. 1 piece = 35 kopecks.
8 hexagonal ties 6.3*50 mm - it’s also better to buy more for stock. 1 piece = 67 kopecks
And self-adhesive plugs so that the place where we drilled could be sealed.
I also bought 10 meters of light beech edge at the guys' warehouse. 1 meter = 7 rubles.
Total additional details cost me 100 rubles.
In total, the cost of materials for the rack was 1,585 rubles. If necessary, the cost of delivery of materials can be added here. Thus, based on the materials, it turns out to be almost two times cheaper than in the store!
Assembly
And now - the most interesting part. Assembling the rack. Here, in fact, are the plates themselves. 
If you look closer, they look like this: compressed wood shavings from the sides. To prevent this from being visible, we glue the edge. 
First stage assembling the rack - glue the edge. First we do this with the shelves. Here it is enough to glue only one side, because... the rest will be hidden. I advise you to practice first. So, we firmly install the slab so that it does not wobble. 
Next we take... an iron! Yes Yes. It turns out that the edge is glued with an iron (heat). We cut off the required piece of edge and install it evenly. 
And carefully, constantly making sure that the edge does not move, we iron it. As a result chemical reaction the edge is tightly glued to the end of the slab. 
Since it is wider than the stove, we take a thin knife and cut off the excess. It is important to do everything smoothly. In fact, this is the most difficult stage, but you quickly understand how to hold the knife. Later, you can take fine sandpaper and remove any unevenness.
We do the same with the two side walls, only we glue two sides: the front and the top.
I highly recommend watching the video on how to glue the edge - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2oL9Jaq62I 
Second phase- drill recesses for shelf holders. To do this, select a drill of suitable thickness and mark the recesses (i.e., we drill not through, but to the length of the shelf holders). Essentially, they mean the distances at which our shelves will be. This is the beauty of self-assembly - you decide for yourself what you need and how you need it.
What we did on one wall we also do on the second. 
Third stage- drill holes for tie rods. Ties connect the side walls with the top and bottom shelves (if desired, you can do it in the middle). I recommend retreating 5-10 centimeters for the lowest shelf. 
We drill holes in the top and bottom shelves for the ties and tighten them. 
As a result, we get such a frame. 
Fourth stage- attach the back wall. It's not difficult. Simply placed around the perimeter White list Fiberboard and attached to the frame. I tried to attach to construction stapler, but it didn’t hold up well, so I nailed it down with small nails, 
Fifth stage- insert shelf holders into the recesses, install the shelves, glue the plugs and rejoice :) 
That's all, actually. And this rack will serve as the basis for our online store -
