Bathhouse layout. Bathhouse layout But such an object has a number of negative factors

The bathhouse is a traditional form of relaxation that promotes general relaxation and cleansing of the body. For a standard procedure, the presence of a steam room and a shower is quite sufficient, however, in addition to the effects of healing steam, another part of the process is no less important, namely the rest that follows the steam room.

For a full-fledged pastime, it is necessary to have a rest room, and for lovers of fresh air, an open terrace.

To build a bathhouse with a terrace and all accompanying premises, first of all, a full-fledged project is drawn up, on the basis of which the entire further construction process is carried out.

A properly designed building is the main guarantee of the convenience and reliability of the final result. Even if the instructions for forming individual parts of the bathhouse fully comply with building codes, an unsuccessfully drawn up project will negate all the efforts and money spent.



The structure of the future bathhouse largely depends on the size of the land plot on which the building will be located. The most successful design is considered to be a 6 by 6 bathhouse with a terrace, since its area can accommodate everything necessary premises.

In this article we will look in detail at 6x6 bathhouse projects with a terrace so that you can independently plan or make adjustments to a ready-made scheme.

Ready-made schemes

A 6 by 6 bathhouse project with a terrace most often consists of five zones, the presence of which is mandatory for a comfortable pastime.

These include:

  • steam room,
  • shower room,
  • hallway,
  • restroom,
  • and, accordingly, an open veranda (terrace) - their dimensions and location are indicated in the diagram.


  • Steam room – the area of ​​the steam room in this project is six square meters, which is quite enough for one or two people to steam. Heating of such a bath is carried out using a heater or any other analogue;
  • Shower room - an alternative to a swimming pool cold water, its size is one third of the steam room area;
  • Restroom - closed room, the area of ​​which is twelve square meters, which can accommodate an average-sized company of four to five people;
  • Hallway - the main role of this room is to make it possible to melt, regulate and maintain the flame in the stove without directly touching the steam room. It contains a small supply of firewood or Technical equipment if the furnace runs on natural gas;
  • The terrace is an alternative place to relax, thanks to which you can spend time in the fresh air. Its dimensions are almost equivalent to the area of ​​the bathhouse relaxation room;

Despite the fact that this layout is considered the most successful, there are also several other layouts that may also suit your taste. Among them it should be noted:







Self planning

Despite the presence of a large number of different schemes, you can also plan the future building yourself. The advantage of designing a bathhouse with your own hands is the ability to create a building that will fully meet your wishes and needs.

Dimensions

The terrace does not have to have fixed dimensions. Despite the fact that one part of it must be integral with the bathhouse and cannot extend beyond its boundaries, the other can be stretched to the size you need. The area of ​​the veranda is determined not by the length or width of the main structure, but by the number of people relaxing on it.

Also, the size of the terrace is greatly influenced by the secondary elements that you plan to place on it. Objects such as a swimming pool should be included in the layout from the beginning and greatly increase the area of ​​the bathhouse veranda.

Form

Traditionally, the veranda follows the shape of the house, which is quite natural, given that it is a kind of continuation of it, but this condition is not mandatory. The terrace can also take the form of a covered corridor that will connect the house and the bathhouse - you can equip it with a home solarium or winter garden.

Note!
If the terrace has a complex or broken shape, do not forget that you can experiment only with three available sides, while the fourth side is one of the walls of the bathhouse.
The exception is a veranda in the form of a corridor or a separate covered extension connected to the main building through a covered passage.

Exterior



The material from which the terrace will be built must be similar to the walls of the main building so that the extension looks organic. On the foundation, the veranda should be located with the same depth as the bathhouse, so that its shrinkage has the same value as the main building.

Second floor

If the bathhouse will be built with an attic, the terrace can also be located at the level of the second floor using support pillars. The price of such a design will be an order of magnitude higher than its ground-based counterpart, but fresh air and a light breeze will be a guaranteed reward for the increased costs.

Bottom line

Only a properly designed building can be adequately implemented into a complete and durable structure. Despite the fact that the bathhouse is considered one of the smallest above-ground buildings, its design should be approached with the utmost seriousness. You can learn more about the information provided by watching the video in this article.

Bathhouse projects 6x6

The bathhouse and everything connected with it in one way or another always arouses increased interest and attention in Russia. This phenomenon is explained quite simply: great pleasure and undoubted benefits from regular visits to the bathhouse in combination with national Russian traditions, dating back more than one century of history. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that the enormous popularity has increased even more in last years, when private construction grew at the highest rates.


One of the most common and most popular options is a bathhouse with a main building measuring 6*6. This is a fairly large area, indicating the high level of comfort that can be achieved. This article will discuss various options, the base of which will be a building of standard dimensions 6 * 6 or close to it.

Project of a bathhouse 5.7*6.2 made of timber with a terrace


This bathhouse project is one of the simplest and most uncomplicated. At the same time, thanks to competent planning and design, the bathhouse looks extremely attractive in appearance, combining with this the high functionality of the premises. The undoubted advantages of the project are:

  • a fairly spacious steam room (area 6.3 sq.m.) with a furnace room in the adjacent room;
  • the presence of a vestibule in front of the rest room, which is very convenient for visitors, and also helps to retain heat in the cold season;
  • the building is equipped with a terrace, which is convenient especially in the warm season, as it provides the opportunity to access fresh air while remaining under the roof. The terrace area (6.8 sq.m.) is not enough to accommodate a barbecue, but it is quite possible to install it nearby;
  • the presence of windows in all four walls of the bathhouse guarantees the maximum possible daylight premises.

Project of a 6*6 bathhouse made of timber with a porch

The bathhouse design is in many ways similar to the previous one, but is even more ascetic and conservative. Firstly, the bathhouse is not equipped with a terrace, instead small porch. It can hardly accommodate more than one or two people.

Secondly, the layout is much closer to the classical one. This is expressed in the fact that the steam room (in this case, the sauna) is equal in size to the washing room, and not significantly larger than it, as in the previous version.

Thirdly, windows are provided only in the vestibule and rest room, which is also the most traditional option.

The lack of attached auxiliary rooms does not make it possible to place a barbecue or grill under the canopy, which is a disadvantage of the project.

Taking into account the listed differences between projects, a potential customer can easily choose the one that is closer to him or simply likes better.

Project of a bathhouse 6*6.7 made of timber with a terrace


The bathhouse project represents one of the most common layout options, implying a fairly roomy and spacious steam room and shower room, and a relaxation room, somewhat smaller than recommended. This “infringement” is more than compensated by the terrace, which is larger in area than the rest room. In fact, this project can be perceived as a project for a bathhouse with a gazebo, because the terrace is quite separate and can well be considered an analogue of a gazebo. It completely allows you to place a barbecue or barbecue on it (naturally, with the strictest compliance with fire safety requirements), but much more often - big table and comfortable armchairs or chairs. Still, it is more logical and safer to place both the grill and the barbecue not under the roof, but next to the building, for example, under a light canopy.

An additional advantage of the project is the presence of windows in each of the rooms, and their sizes are quite large.

Project of a 6*6 bathhouse made of timber with a terrace


This project focuses on maximum level comfort, which is achieved by increasing the area of ​​the recreation area and the presence of all auxiliary premises that provide convenience. In particular, the bathhouse project under consideration has the following features, indicating the above:

  • a spacious recreation room, occupying almost half of the total area of ​​the building (14 sq. m);
  • large shower room (6.3 sq. m) and a separate bathroom (1.7 sq. m);
  • vestibule, which also provides additional convenience, especially in the cold season;
  • small steam room. Due to its small size, it is hardly possible for several people to visit it at the same time, but there are advantages to this - it warms up quickly, which makes it possible to easily maintain or restore the temperature for a long time;
  • the presence of large windows in all rooms, except the steam room, guarantees natural light during daylight hours;
  • The area of ​​the terrace allows you to install a sofa and comfortably accommodate several vacationers, and the presence of a covering around the bathhouse allows you to install a barbecue.

As a result, the bathhouse project under consideration can be classified as original and aimed at comfort and convenience.

Project of a 2-storey bathhouse 6*6 made of wooden beams with a terrace and a balcony


The project under consideration with standard dimensions has so much competent planning, that easily fit into it:

on the first floor:

  • all the premises required for a classic bath - steam room, sink and relaxation room;
  • quite spacious terrace with an area of ​​9 sq.m.;

On the second floor:

  • a spacious recreation room, which can be used as a living room;
  • quite spacious balcony with an area of ​​almost 7 sq.m.

One of the main advantages of such two-story projects is that such buildings are very often the first to be purchased in a new plot of land. In such cases, a full-fledged house has not yet been built, but the owner wants to have a bathhouse. The best option is to get both a small living space and a bathhouse in one building for relatively reasonable money.

And the fact that the bathhouse project also has a terrace and balcony is an additional plus. As well as the fact that it is quite possible and simple to install additional leisure facilities nearby, for example, a grill or barbecue, the products of which are so pleasant to consume after a bath while sitting on the terrace.

Project of a 6*6 bathhouse made of timber with an attic and porch


The bathhouse project perfectly demonstrates the possibility of combining a spacious and comfortable recreation area and a small living area in a 6*6 area.

You should pay attention to several main points of the project:

on the first floor:

  • the layout of the premises is quite close to the classic one for a bathhouse, which is usually presented as: 1/1.5/2, respectively, steam room/washing room or shower/relaxation room;
  • competent planning allows the landing to, in fact, play the role of a vestibule in front of the entrance to the rest room;
  • adjacent to the landing is a small utility room, convenient for use as a warehouse;
  • the living room is very spacious and bright, thanks to the presence of two large windows;
  • the shower room and steam room also have a small window;

on the second floor:

  • half of the floor can also be classified as leisure - this is a billiard room, the area of ​​which is quite sufficient not only for installing a rather large table, but also for a bar and a small group of a table and a couple of armchairs;
  • the second half is living, consisting of two spacious bedrooms with an area of ​​9 square meters. m.

As noted above, the option of combining a small temporary residential area with a working bathhouse is popular and often used. The absence of attached canopies does not allow the installation of a barbecue or grill, which does not at all exclude their use in the open air.

Project of a 6*6 bathhouse made of timber with an attic and a terrace


The bathhouse project is as simple and a budget option. Its efficiency lies in the absence of any complex structural elements. The basis is a simple and concise style that guarantees quality and reliability.

When developing the layouts, emphasis was also placed on economy in construction and design solutions. Nevertheless, as a result of such simplifications, it is possible to achieve both a high level of comfort and the availability of all the required premises. On the ground floor there are traditionally:

  • miniature steam room with an area of ​​2.3 square meters. m, which can be visited one at a time;
  • small washing area of ​​3.7 sq. m., which is quite enough for 2-3 people;
  • a spacious recreation room with an area of ​​14.2 square meters compared to other rooms. m;
  • a terrace of almost the same size (12 sq. m), on which or next to it furniture for relaxation or a barbecue can easily be placed;
  • Despite all the savings, the shower and rest room have big windows, making the rooms bright.

On the second floor there are only two rooms designed, one of which can be used as a hall, and the second as a bedroom.

Conclusion

The considered bathhouse projects in all their diversity - with a terrace, attic, barbecue or balcony - are only a small part of the huge number of options presented on the market in modern conditions. Any potential customer can easily find exactly the project that best suits their requirements.

Bathhouse 6x4 with terrace

A fairly common project among developers, construction can be completed in one season. The use of modern building materials and technologies makes it possible to have a comfortable and beautiful building at very reasonable prices. The bathhouse has a steam room measuring 4 m2, a washing compartment measuring 4 m2, a relaxation room and an open terrace with an area of ​​8 m2. The dimensions of the premises allow six or more people to be in the bathhouse at the same time.



Factory-made metal stove with a tank for heating water, warm water supplied to the washing room, the water supply can be autonomous or from the country house.







The columnar foundation provides excellent ventilation, wooden structures work in favorable conditions.





Structure characteristics

  1. The foundation is columnar on a sand cushion.
  2. The frame is made of profiled timber, the inter-crown insulation is rolled jute fiber.

  3. Interior partitions of frame-panel type.


  4. The ceiling height is 2.2 meters, which ensures the comfort of taking water procedures.

  5. There are three windows measuring 600x600 mm. You can install metal-plastic or wooden ones.
  6. Floors. Insulated mineral wool(except for the steam room), rough floor made of boards 20 mm thick, finished floor made of tongue-and-groove boards 30 mm thick.

  7. The ceilings are insulated in all rooms.


  8. The washing room has a shower tray.



    The pan is connected to the water sump using a siphon and plastic pipes. For the sump, you can use any barrel (thick-walled metal or plastic) dug outside the perimeter of the bathhouse. In order for the water to gradually leave the barrel on its own, make holes in it in the bottom and around the perimeter. The holes are drilled with an electric drill, the diameter of the holes is ≈ 10 mm, place them evenly over the area of ​​the walls and bottom. The top of the barrel should be closed; the lid can be made from ordinary edged boards or a piece of sheet steel. Due to the fact that the pan is located high above ground level, normal water drainage will be ensured.





    One caveat. All siphons must be cleaned of dirt over time. If the location of the shower makes it difficult to access the siphon for periodic cleaning, then it is better not to install it. Attach the plastic pipe directly to the pan. Siphons are used for pre-cleaning water from solid particles, preventing them from entering the drainage system. In our case, there is no need to be afraid of clogging; water at a large slope will independently wash away the dirt into the settling barrel.

  9. The terrace is open, railings with turned or sawn balusters.

During the selection of the project and manufacturing materials, the main attention was paid to the comfort of all rooms, while choosing Construction Materials and technologies that allow you to achieve your goal with the lowest possible financial costs. Let's look at the step-by-step instructions for building a bathhouse.

Choosing the location of the bath




We understand that it is relatively small sizes suburban areas significantly limit the possibilities of choosing a construction site, but under any conditions the main criteria must be observed.

  1. Firstly, the bathhouse cannot be located in lowlands. If this is not possible, then you will have to make artificial backfill; you will have to take a one-year pause to allow the brought soil to shrink.
  2. Secondly, you should in the best possible way solve water supply issues. One option is to install a storage tank on the roof. This option has a significant drawback - the tank must be reliably insulated, but even such insulation does not provide a complete guarantee against freezing.
  3. Thirdly, each site has its own layout; the bathhouse should not destroy the existing design, but complement it.
  4. And, fourthly, it is necessary to resolve issues with the supply and storage of building materials. If you have everything ready, call your helpers and start construction.


Marking and foundation

Drive pegs along the perimeter of the building and mark the locations of the posts. We chose just such a foundation because of the ease of its construction and satisfactory physical stability. In one of the subsequent articles we will dwell in detail on calculation methods and criteria for choosing a foundation. This is very interesting topic, knowledge of the nuances will help you independently make the best decisions in all situations.


The distance between the posts is two meters, carefully watch the corners of the building. To do this, check the parameters of the squares by measuring the diagonals. They should be equal, it didn’t work out the first time - change the position of the pegs and achieve 90° in all angles.

For the foundation we recommend using ready-made concrete blocks with dimensions 200×200×400 mm. You can pour concrete pillars yourself, but in this case, “the game is not worth the candle.” They're standing ready-made blocks very cheap, their use helps to significantly reduce the production time and guarantee their quality.



Another important point. Our foundation is shallow, this type can be built on loamy or sandy soils. It is not suitable for clayey and waterlogged soils. If you have just such soils, then you will have to lay the columns to a depth below the freezing level of the ground in winter. To prevent swelling of the columns, we recommend that you make a sand cushion with a thickness of about twenty centimeters under the blocks.



DIY block foundation. Instructions

Step 1. Dig holes according to the size of the blocks; the depth of the holes is at least 50 centimeters, excluding the sand cushion.



Step 2. Now you need to roughly calculate the thickness of the mortar in order to bring the blocks to the same level horizontally. Take a hydraulic level and mark on the pegs a height above the ground equal to the height of one block. Measure the distance from this level to the sand cushion with a staff.

Step 3. The depth of the holes will vary; estimate the approximate thickness of the mortar to bring the upper blocks to the same level. The fact is that you cannot put too thick a layer of mortar on the last block; the ideal option is for the surface of the last blocks to be horizontally located at the same level without mortar. If this is not the case, align the position of all columns. When laying some columns, make the seam thicker, while laying others, make the seam thinner, in this way eliminate differences in height.

Important: make the mortar for laying cement blocks with an increased amount of cement.

Step 4. Lay the blocks level, constantly check the position of all planes.

Step 5. Cover the finished posts with two layers of roofing felt.



Assembling a log house

For the log house, we chose a profiled beam 90×140 mm; we will lay it on the edge; the thickness of the walls of the bathhouse is 90 mm, respectively. We believe that it is not worth making thicker walls for a bathhouse; this is not a residential building where it needs to be heated around the clock. The bathhouse should retain heat for only a few hours, and such a thickness of timber in combination with insulation will cope with its task. Prepare materials and tools; they should be in convenient places.

Step 1. Place the bottom binding row. We strongly recommend securing it with metal dowels. To do this, you need to drill holes in the blocks and beams; the dowels must be strictly vertical and fit into the holes with little effort. Without effort, dowels are placed to secure the individual rows of the log house together. Due to the fact that the beam is placed on its edge, the use of dowels is a prerequisite.







Step 2. Lay down the floor joists. The distance between them is approximately one meter; use 100×100 mm timber or 50×150 mm boards as beams. Be sure to treat wooden elements with any antiseptics. Secure their position with metal corners with screws to the bottom row.



Step 3. Connect the corners of the bathhouse into half a tree without release; later they will be covered with clapboard. You can make release angles, but this method is more complicated and requires more materials.





Step 4. Mark the doorways. Practical advice: when laying timber, do not rush to cut whole material into pieces, always try on the existing pieces first.



Step 5. Start laying the second row from the corner, do not forget to insulate it with jute fiber. Do the work carefully, do not rush.



Step 6. Be sure to install wooden dowels to tie each row together. The distance between the dowels is approximately one meter.

Important: near door and window openings Dowels must be installed on both sides.





Step 7 Control the height of the rows. As soon as you approach the window installation level, make markings again. Don't worry if the window openings are a few centimeters higher or lower than the planned level. Firstly, a few centimeters do not play any negative role. Secondly, no one has yet managed to install windows in a wooden house with an accuracy of a centimeter in height.

Step 8 Before the last row you need to lay ceiling beams, use 50x100 mm boards for this - the attic will be unused, such boards satisfy the strength requirements.





Video - Construction of floors in a wooden house. Part 1

Video - Construction of floors in a wooden house. Part 2

Step 9 The row of seedlings must be planted on metal dowels; to make them, take rods of construction reinforcement or wire rod Ø 10 mm.





The log house is ready, now we need to get it under the roof as quickly as possible.

Roof of the bathhouse

The roof is covered with ondulin, sloping, gable, the gables are sheathed with lining made from rounded logs. The rafters are made of boards 50x150 mm, the sheathing is made of slats or unedged boards. The distance between the rafters is 80 centimeters. Before installing the roof, you should temporarily cover the ceiling beams with durable boards. They must withstand the weight of workers and building structures.



Step 1. Check the dimensions of the top row of the bath horizontally, check the parallelism in length and width. Deviations should not exceed 1÷2 centimeters at the corners of the bathhouse.

Step 2. Make a rafter template from the boards. Lift the template and “walk” with it along the entire length of the bathhouse, the position of the rafter legs should be symmetrical at the ends. Mark the locations for the notches. Everything is fine - remove the template and start making rafters.

Video - Calculation of rafters

Video - How to cut rafters at the right angle and the right size

Step 3. Despite the fact that the width of the bath allows the manufacture of the simplest hanging rafter system, we choose the layered option. The fact is that for inexperienced builders it is very difficult to make a high-quality hanging rafter system at the maximum span values; it is not worth the risk. It is better to install a ridge beam and vertical supports to it (headstocks). Prepare all the rafters and lift them to the bathhouse when assembled.



Video - Installing rafters

Step 4. At the gables, install vertical posts of the appropriate length and attach the ridge beam to them. Constantly check the accuracy of linear dimensions and spatial position.



Step 5. Install the rafters one by one, check their position and fix them with steel angles at least 1.5 mm thick. Temporarily tie the installed rafter legs together with pieces of boards; after installing the sheathing, they are dismantled.

Step 6. Using a rope with blue, mark off the lines for the sheathing slats on the rafters. There is no need to make markings along the entire length of the roof; start with the overhangs, then you can control the distance between the slats using simple templates.

Step 7 Install the roofing, check the position of the rows. To guarantee tightness, you can use waterproofing made of any material. Ondulin is made from modified bitumen and polymer additives based on paper industry waste. The physical characteristics of the strength of such a material require careful handling during installation of the roofing. It is not advisable to walk on it; fixation is carried out with special nails with soft sealing gaskets. You need to hammer in nails with feeling.


Step 8 Align the protruding sheathing to the size of the ondulin sheets. Install bearing structures for upholstery of gables. Cover the overhangs of the rafters with boards, install ridge protection, etc.




Step 9 Install the drainage system according to the manufacturers' recommendations and sew up the gables. If you don’t want to install a drainage system, you need to make a blind area around the bathhouse.

Video - Installation of a plastic drain

The most labor-intensive work has been completed. In this condition, the log house can spend the winter (the best option), if there is no time, start interior work.

Floors

All floors, except the steam room and washing room, must have insulation. We use any rolled mineral wool; for vapor barrier we need to use modern materials. You can take AXTON - universal protection, quite effective and at a reasonable price.

Step, No. DescriptionIllustration

Step 1 Make subfloors. For their production they are used unedged boards 20 mm thick, the boards are installed on the floor beams from below on special slats. Should be installed on the boards protective covering to prevent moisture from getting into the cotton wool from the underground.
Step 2 Carefully spread the cotton wool over the entire surface of the subfloors, avoiding any gaps or cracks; the wool easily compresses and takes the shape of the floor.
Lay a vapor barrier over the wool.
Step 3 Begin laying the finished floor. For the floor you need to take tongue and groove boards 30 mm thick; during installation, use special tools to tighten the boards tightly. It is easier to fix the coating with ordinary nails; the length of the nails should be three times greater than the thickness of the boards.
Step 4 If necessary, sand the floor and nail down the baseboards. The final coating of the floor can be done with permanent paints or transparent varnishes.

Windows and doors

The joinery should be installed before the walls are covered. This rule applies to the construction of all buildings without exception, and not just bathhouses. What windows and doors to use is a matter for each developer. We put forward only one requirement - the woodwork in the steam room must be environmentally friendly and moisture-resistant.

Window to the bathhouse

Step 1. Make precise markings of the window opening, use a level. The size of the window opening must correspond to the frame and at the same time have a margin of several centimeters in height. The reserve must compensate not only for the shrinkage of the log house, but also for its periodic fluctuations in height. The fact is that all lumber absorbs moisture to one degree or another. Damp structures increase in size, while dried ones, on the contrary, decrease. This process occurs constantly; for this purpose, you don’t even have to wash in the bathhouse. In the summer, the log house dries out, and in the damp autumn it expands.

Step 2. Using a gasoline or electric saw, carefully cut the window opening to size.





Step 3. Install window box, a gap of 2–3 centimeters should be left between the top surface and the frame. The gap must be carefully insulated. You can use special polyurethane foam (it does not create high pressure during expansion), tow or any other insulation.

Step 4. Check the position of the box and secure it securely in several places on the side with long wood screws.

Important. If the box is not installed vertically, then window sashes They will constantly open or close themselves completely, this causes inconvenience.

Step 5. Install window frames, adjust their position. Install window sills and ebbs. The platbands will be nailed in after the walls are covered.






Doors are installed using the same algorithm. The only difference is that the door frame needs to be fixed more securely.

Upholstery of walls and ceilings in the steam room and washroom

These rooms require increased attention due to high humidity and temperature. The duration of operation largely depends on the reliability of protection of wooden structures.



The steam room floor needs to be drained. For the floor, take edged boards; you don’t need to pull them tightly during installation. Water will escape through small cracks. The bathhouse is placed on columnar foundations - there is no need for special water drainage, it will “disappear” on its own. How to finish walls and ceiling?

Step 1. Nail down the mineral wool slats. The width of the slats should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the insulation.



Step 2. Carefully insert the mineral wool, avoiding any gaps. To prevent the cotton wool from falling, carefully secure it in several places with thin nails of appropriate length.





Step 3. Attach aluminum foil to the surfaces of the slats. Lay the strips from bottom to top, overlapping approximately 10 centimeters. For reliability, it is better to additionally seal the joint with special tape or ordinary tape. The foil is fixed to the walls with a stapler. Work carefully; aluminum foil tears easily. The same operation must be repeated on the rough ceiling.



Step 4. Attach thin slats measuring 20÷50 mm to wide slats, and the lining will be attached to them. Check all dimensions and position of the supporting structure.



Step 5. Check the distances between the floor and ceiling at the edges of the room. If there is a significant scatter, you will have to cut the first lining at an angle. At the bottom, the cut area will be covered with a plinth and will be completely invisible.

Step 6. Nail the lining with small nails, hammer the nails at an angle into the groove. Periodically check the horizontal position of the boards with a hydraulic level. If the lining is of high quality, then it will be horizontal throughout its entire height; if the quality of the material is poor, then deviations will have to be eliminated. To do this, you should remove the tenon from the groove a few millimeters; in this way, after 5–6 rows, you can eliminate a crook up to a centimeter in size, and do it unnoticed.



Other rooms in the bathhouse are lined in the same way. The difference is the absence of vapor barrier. It is important to remember that there should be a gap of approximately 1÷2 centimeters between the lining and the mineral wool. It is needed for a little natural ventilation, otherwise fungus or mold will quickly appear on wooden structures.



Nail trim on doors and windows, decorative slats in the corners, and ceiling plinths.

We strongly advise you to provide ventilation in the steam room, either forced exhaust or natural. With its help, you should quickly ventilate the steam room after taking water procedures. Make a hole in the wall under the ceiling for a fan or a closing grille, with outside come up with decorative elements. During the operation of the steam room, the ventilation hole must be tightly closed.

SNiP 41-01-2003. HEATING, VENTILATION AND AIR CONDITIONING. Ventilation, air conditioning and air heating(point 7)

SNiP 41-01-2003

Terrace

For deck flooring, it is better to use boards impregnated with antiseptics. Nowadays you can purchase special boards for terraces; they are made from wood sawdust and plastics.



Their performance characteristics are superior to all existing floor coverings. But they have two drawbacks. First, the appearance does not at all resemble natural boards. This does not harmonize with overall design baths Secondly, the price of such boards makes many developers think about the advisability of purchasing them.



Balusters and railings can be fixed on spikes or using metal corners. In specialized stores you can purchase finished products; the choice in linear dimensions and appearance is huge. The railings are attached to vertical wooden supports.



After installation, you need to carefully sand all surfaces and fill the gaps at the joints. It is better to make the putty yourself; purchased putty will always differ in color. Putty is done very simply. Collect a small amount of small sawdust and mix it with waterproof PVA glue. The sawdust should be from the type of lumber that you plan to putty.

To finish the terrace structures, use only varnishes or paints intended for external use.

Video - Installation of terraces

Video - Fencing for the terrace

When building a bathhouse, you need to think several years ahead. Some developers do not insulate the bathhouse, citing the fact that they plan to wash only in the summer. In this way they are trying to reduce the financial costs of building a bathhouse. This step is very reckless; over time, situations may arise when the bathhouse will have to be used in colder times. If there is insulation, great; you can install an ordinary heater in the rest room and washing room and create a favorable temperature in the rooms in a few minutes. The same applies to the size of the bath.




Bathhouse with veranda 6 by 6 made of logs

New technologies and building materials construction industry, could not move from first place traditional bath from a log. So far it is ahead of any design in many respects.

Very often on suburban areas you can find, for example, a 6x4 log bathhouse with or without a veranda.



Advantages

  1. Natural material and environmentally friendly. Due to its natural origin, wood has a beneficial effect on the human body, giving it the opportunity to inhale beneficial substances.
  2. Saving money on the purchase of building materials.
  3. Low thermal conductivity of wood. In winter, a 6 by 6 bathhouse with a veranda retains heat well, even with thin walls. Heating costs are minimal.
  4. The log house of the bathhouse has an aesthetic appearance. Even log buildings of simple shapes and without additional finishing look stylish and beautiful.
  5. Ease of assembly is one of the most important components of a log sauna. Due to this, construction time is significantly reduced. If necessary, the building can be easily disassembled, transported and reassembled in a new location.


Flaws

  1. Fire hazard. To reduce the influence of this property, all wooden structural elements should be treated by special means, helping to increase their resistance to fire.
  2. Shrinkage. Finishing work can only be done after six months.
  3. Care. In order for wood to preserve its original appearance and properties, it requires special care. Alternatively, you can cover the logs with veneer material to protect them from the environment.


How to choose wood

Most practical material for a log bath - pine. It is best to purchase wood harvested in winter, then it is more moisture resistant. Select high-density wood with log diameters of 180-250 mm.



Tip: make sure that the difference in diameter between the trunks is up to 30 mm.

Use mainly logs harvested from northern coniferous species. Due to the dense structure of wood, their properties do not change due to high humidity and temperature changes.



Features when purchasing

  1. There should be no blue spots on the cut of the log; keep in mind that its price will be higher.
  2. Make sure that the core is even in color, dark and occupies most of the cut.
  3. The surface of the log should be yellow color- dark or light.
  4. Make sure that there are no gaps on the branches, if there are any.
  5. The wood should be hard when cut.
  6. The presence of resin pockets is unacceptable.

How to build a sauna from logs

Below instructions will tell you the main stages of construction. Try to stick to them.

How to prepare material for work

  1. Plane the log “under the bracket.” The difference between the upper and lower diameters by more than 30 mm is unacceptable.
  2. Saw along the length of the wall and arrange into sets. Place logs with unequal lower and upper diameters in a corner with different ends and cut them at right angles.
  3. Cut out the grooves and “paws”:
    • In the “bowl” is the most common method. There are three options, in one of which the “bowl” is turned down, allowing you to protect the wood from possible rotting;


  • In the “paw” - the most economical option. However, subsequently such compounds begin to rot, so the first option is preferable.


  1. After cutting down all the “paws”, check how tightly the logs fit. If not enough, put it on the bottom tow.

Foundation

The construction of a bathhouse with your own hands should begin with the foundation, having first determined the nature of the soil on the site. Most often, a log bathhouse is installed on a columnar foundation, the depth of which is 700-1000 mm. They use brick, concrete or stone for this, as they are more durable than wooden pillars.

The strip base should be erected when it:

  • garden;
  • forest;
  • clayey;
  • loamy;
  • marshy;
  • from coarse sand or fine gravel.

When the building is located on a slope, or when swelling of the soil is possible, a screw or pile foundation for a bath.



Walls

  1. Waterproof the foundation with two layers of roofing felt.
  2. Install the “mortgage crown”.
  3. Place the first pair of logs on the foundation parallel to each other on opposite sides.
  4. Cut them into a “bowl” for laying the top logs.
  5. Place the next pair of logs into the finished slots. Check the connection, it should be at right angles.
  6. Install the second crown and all the others in the same way.

How to caulk walls

The process involves filling the cracks between the wooden elements of the bathhouse, for example, logs and in the notches, with fibrous materials. In this case, the material for caulking should protrude from the grooves on both sides of the frame by 50 mm or more.

Spread the fiber materials so that their fibers are located across the groove. After this, they are hammered into the cracks using caulking. Work should be carried out consistently around the entire perimeter of the bathhouse. The inside needs to be caulked after the outer layer.

Tip: to reduce the ventilation of the walls, apply caulking twice - after erecting the walls and after they have settled.

Roof structure

When building a 6 by 3 bathhouse with a veranda, use a lean-to or gable roof. Make rafters from well-dried coniferous wood. Remember the main thing: when installing the roof and conducting communications, you should not drive nails directly into the logs; the bathhouse will shrink over time.

Veranda

The sauna terrace is a great place to take a break from the steam room in the summer. It can be attached to an already finished structure or done simultaneously with it. The second option is more practical, since in the first case you will have to wait 1.5-2 years until the wood dries and shrinks.

It differs from an ordinary room in that it has no walls. But, they can be made sliding, turning the veranda into additional room. (see also the article Projects for bathhouses made of rounded logs: options)

Conclusion

You can make a bathhouse from logs with your own hands or entrust the work to professionals. Natural wood will allow you to fully enjoy the steam room. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

Modern baths have long ceased to be small and inconspicuous structures that do not have a sufficient level of comfort and are made using ancient technologies. They are built using modern materials, have water and electricity input and at the same time have various technical solutions to increase functionality. That is why two-story bathhouse with a terrace is considered an example of advanced construction, in which all technologies are implemented to increase comfort.

Phased construction

First of all, it should be noted that the first floor will be adapted for a steam room and a washing room. Moreover, if a two-story frame bathhouse has large dimensions, then a swimming pool can be located there. It is better to allocate the second floor for organizing a relaxation room, where a billiard table, a massage lounger and even several exercise machines are often installed.



Project

  • Typical construction of a two-story bathhouse always begins with a project.
  • It must indicate all the materials used, methods of their installation and fastening features.
  • Also, the design of a two-story bathhouse must contain a plan for the location of all rooms, indicating the arrangement of interior items.
  • Special attention is paid to communication systems, which usually consist of electrical wiring, water supply and ventilation.


  • If you plan to create a building with an attic, then a separate roofing project is also prepared.
  • When a bathhouse involves placement brick oven, then its drawings and order are prepared separately.

Advice! If there is no ability to independently create a project, then a specialist is hired for this process. You can also use ready-made designs and drawings.

Foundation

It is believed that it is best to make a bathhouse from timber with dimensions of 6x6. These are the optimal dimensions for such structures and they perfectly allow for the implementation of all the additional functions of the structure.

At the same time, the use of this material allows the use of pile foundations.

  • It should be noted that such a foundation cannot withstand heavy loads, but a two-story building, even taking into account the attic, will withstand it quite well.
  • The foundation is made according to a special project called “pile field”.
  • To create it, use a plan for the placement of rooms on the first floor. The locations of the piles are marked on it.


  • Typically, two-story houses with a bathhouse sit on supports around the perimeter load-bearing walls, partitions, as well as in the locations of stoves and stairs. It must be remembered that piles must also be installed at the joints of all partitions.
  • After all the supports are installed, they are tied together with a metal channel, creating a platform of squares. For one-story structures, you don’t have to do this, but install them on nickels.

Advice! There are several types of piles, each designed for a specific soil type. By choosing the right supports, you can significantly strengthen the base, making it stiffer and stronger.



Laying crowns

  • When wooden two-story baths are created from timber, then Special attention pay attention to the selection of carved locks to create corners and other connections. The fact is that there are a number of various types execution of such units that have their own special design.
  • Typically, professional craftsmen use no more than three or four methods for corner joints, which they use depending on the technical specifications or personal wishes of the customer.
  • It is worth noting that when erecting walls, it is necessary to immediately make floor beams, joists, subfloors and interior partitions.
  • If you are building a house with dimensions of 6x8, then problems may arise with the length of the beams. Therefore, you should immediately add it to the project calculation material six meters, which means that at the same time you need to indicate the type of extension and the location of such connections.
  • Some craftsmen advise using laminated veneer lumber when creating such structures. The fact is that this material tolerates moisture well, seals the room well and has a good appearance.
  • If it has been decided to use solid wood timber, then before installing it, treatment should be carried out protective impregnations, giving the product additional qualities.
  • Rolled tow or special rubber gaskets are used as a sealant.
  • Wooden cotter pins are used to connect the crowns. They are placed in pre-prepared holes made in a checkerboard pattern.
  • To secure all elements, the installation instructions recommend using metal brackets. They are quite practical and very reliable.

Advice! All the features of this design are included in the project and during installation all its instructions are strictly followed. Otherwise, you can easily make a mistake.



Roof

  • First of all, it should be noted that the roof structure should be as lightweight as possible. This is due to the type of foundation chosen, which does not require additional loads.
  • If the future structure has dimensions of 6x4, then a pitched roof is quite suitable for it. This will help you save a lot, but the possibility of making an attic immediately disappears.
  • It is best to use beams of a smaller size and with a rectangular cross-section to create a rafter system. This will help reduce the weight of the structure without compromising its strength.


  • All elements are fixed with metal staples and long nails. However, professional craftsmen recommend using special fastener, capable of clamping in two or three planes.
  • The roof layout of a two-story bathhouse is usually no different from other construction projects and is created according to the same principle.

Advice! Roof insulation is carried out on the attic floor. However, if an attic is created, then the roof itself must be additionally protected from the cold.



Bake

  • In order to heat a room with dimensions of 6 by 6 and at the same time maintain a certain temperature throughout the entire building, you can use several types of heating systems.
  • The most practical method recommends installing a brick stove with two water tanks in the steam room. In this case, one of them should be located on the chimney pipe on the second floor. This will allow you to maintain comfortable temperature upstairs.


  • Also, some craftsmen advise installing an additional tank with your own hands, which is connected to the main tank by two pipes at different levels. This solution makes it possible to obtain a large supply hot water and additional a heating element in room.
  • It is worth noting that such a system works great only when using the steam room directly. Otherwise it will be cold in winter.


  • Another heating method involves using small oven with water tank and separate heating system. In this case, you can use a gas boiler or special multifunctional sauna heaters with extensive heating of the room.

Advice! The choice of oven depends only on the personal preferences of the users and the required functionality of the product.

Thermal insulation

If the entire structure is made of laminated veneer lumber, then when located in a mild climate it does not need protection from the cold. However, special attention must be paid to seals and sealants so that there are no gaps in the structure.

It is also recommended to use liquid insulation. Its price is quite high, but thanks to it you can get protection from cold, moisture and open fire at the same time. Wherein this material preserves the appearance of the structure, and when adding dye, it can diversify it.

It is better to insulate the sauna room with moisture-resistant roll products with a layer of reflective surface. Upon completion of installation, the room is completely sewn up and covered with a special protective composition.



Conclusion

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic. Also, based on the text presented above, we can conclude that the production modern baths two floors is a complex process that requires precise calculations and preparatory work (read also the article “Projects of two-story bathhouses made of timber, where to stop”).

However, a two-story bathhouse and a house made of timber, with the right approach, can be produced in just one season. To do this, you only need clear coordination of all actions and a properly drawn up work plan.

























A bathhouse is not just a place where a Russian person washes, it is part of the culture. Here we rest our bodies, cleanse our souls and put our thoughts in order, so it is important to maintain the ideal proportions of the structure. The layout of the bathhouse must meet the owner's expectations.

A 6x6 sauna will satisfy the needs of even big family or will be a great addition to a holiday with friends. The balanced size allows you to place all the necessary rooms inside (steam room, washing room, relaxation room), without wasting your budget on an unnecessary increase in space. What 6x6 baths can be like: projects and layout will be revealed in our article.

Source mebel-go.ru

The square shape of the structure and its small dimensions open up a wide field for experiments with the design of a 6x6 bathhouse, materials and internal filling. One- and two-story, with an attic and a terrace, built from wooden beams, logs, bricks or building blocks - it will be easy for you to choose the most suitable option for yourself.

Wooden baths

Wood is the most common material for construction. Baths from it are built using two technologies: processed, dried and sawn timber or rounded logs of primary processing. Each method has its own advantages:

    The beams are cheaper and weigh less, which affects the speed of construction.

    A log bathhouse looks more natural and original.

Which option to choose is up to you, but we recommend timber as optimal. It has already been dried and shows minimal shrinkage, but the logs will show slight deformation, which will need to be eliminated at the initial stages of operation of the bathhouse.

Source barskydom.ru

Layout of a 6x6 wooden bath: possible options

There are a lot of different options for planning a 6x6 bath; it all depends on your preferences and wishes. You can choose a standard bathhouse design with a ready-made layout or create a special one that has never been seen anywhere else. For a 6 by 6 bathhouse, the interior layout, the photo of which is shown below, is considered classic.

Source th.aviarydecor.com

Bathhouse with porch

A classic, functional version of the 6 by 6 bathhouse layout without frills, which were abandoned to increase the usable space. Among the advantages of this type of timber bathhouse it is worth noting:

    the presence of windows in each room allows you to use fewer artificial lights, saving on electricity;

    a compact steam room with enough space so that people do not feel discomfort;

    an enlarged shower room allows you to freely accommodate four or more people;

    between the rooms there is a small corridor where you can build shelves for towels, brooms, washcloths and soap;

    The lounge room has enough space to install a table and sofas.

The disadvantage of this 6x6 bathhouse layout is the lack of a covered terrace where you can place a barbecue or chairs for relaxing in the fresh air. But this can always be solved: a terrace can be added to finished project. This option can also be used in more modest buildings: for example, for a 4 by 6 bathhouse, the interior layout (photos of interiors are also presented in large quantities) may not include a rest room at all, which is completely taken out onto the terrace.

Source postroim-dachi.ru

Bathhouse with terrace

The layout of this bathhouse is characterized by increased comfort. The advantages of a 6x6 bathhouse with a terrace include the largest possible rest room, which will accommodate not only a table with seats, but also optional equipment. For a 6 by 3 bathhouse, the layout may also include a terrace, which is located along the long side.

The steam room and shower are not designed for a large number of people visiting at the same time, but their compact dimensions allow these rooms to be quickly heated and used in shifts.

The open terrace is ideal for sitting comfortably in the warm season after undergoing bath procedures. For a 6x6 bathhouse, the layout, the photo of which is posted below, is one of the proven standard options.

Source samdizajner.ru

Bathhouse 6x6 with terrace and attic

A bathhouse made of 6x6 timber with an attic offers a lot of options for use extra space. This could be, for example, another large recreation room where you can equip a billiard room.

In addition, in the attic you can equip a room for guests who come and stay overnight, or a large dining room for celebrations, banquets and parties.

The project is additionally equipped with a spacious balcony, which allows everyone to sit comfortably on it.

Source himcomp.ru

Layout of a 6x6 bathhouse with an attic, a balcony and an open terrace

Bathhouse with attic

Another good option for planning a “health house” is a 6x6 bathhouse made of timber with a porch and attic. Here maximum space is allocated to recreation areas. TO positive traits This layout includes:

    There is a small vestibule, you get there from the porch. It will become an additional barrier to cold air and will allow you to retain heat in the room longer.

    Windows in the rest room and shower allow for high levels of natural light.

    In the steam room, the window was removed to reduce heat transfer into the room.

    Large attic provides many options for using useful space.

The disadvantages of such a layout include the small area of ​​functional premises: steam room and shower, as well as the lack of a bathroom. But with a strong desire, this drawback can be corrected; a 6x3 bathhouse, the layout of which allows for even less wandering, will not provide such a chance at all.

Source prefer.ru.net

Bathhouse 6x6 with attic and terrace

The most ascetic and budget option for planning a bathhouse. Its advantages include the large size of the recreation room, an attic without partitions and an open terrace where additional necessary equipment, such as a barbecue, is located.

Watch a detailed review of a 6x6 timber sauna in the video:

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer bathhouse construction services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Among the disadvantages that a 6x6 bathhouse may have (the layout of the photo example below), it is worth noting the absence of a vestibule, which reduces protection from cold air in winter, which means that heating costs and maintaining an appropriate temperature in the premises increase.

Source 9ban.ru

Alternative building materials suitable for building a bathhouse

Wood is the best option for building a bathhouse, but if for certain reasons it does not suit you, then there is an alternative: brick and foam block.

Brick buildings are characterized by increased stability and will last a long time, but they require considerable costs and more time for construction. It is also worth noting the impressive weight of a brick bathhouse, which is why it will need a full foundation, which will also increase the final cost.

Source rabotayout.ru

Foam block will be an excellent replacement for brick. The advantages of the material include:

    high porosity, which increases natural air circulation;

    less weight at larger size separate parts, which reduces construction time;

    low level of heat transfer, due to which the structure heats up faster and cools down longer.

However, there is also a minus: baths made of foam blocks require external finishing in order to limit high air permeability and improve the appearance of the building.

Source himcomp.ru

The design of a 6 by 6 bathhouse made of foam blocks in the photo above is characterized by high fullness and an optimal ratio of room sizes. Sufficient space for comfortable relaxation allows you to avoid reducing the area of ​​the shower and steam room.

Video description

For more information about which material is best suited for building a bathhouse, watch the video:

Options for zoning bath space

The compact dimensions of the building do not impose serious restrictions on the number and size of rooms inside the bathhouse. Thanks to the high skill of design engineers, everything you need can be placed inside.

    Minimum option. Steam room, shower and relaxation room. It features an increased area of ​​each room.

    Comfortable option. A separate bathroom is added to the listed rooms.

    Full version. Additionally, a vestibule at the entrance, a terrace, a dressing room and even a swimming pool are being designed. This option reduces the area of ​​each room, but allows maximum use inner space baths

Depending on the budget, the size of the family/company and the specific purpose of construction, you can determine the optimal type of bathhouse zoning for yourself.

Source bani-sbs.ru

The stove is one of the most important elements of the bathhouse

6 by 6 bathhouse designs made of timber are designed for simultaneous visits by a group of 3-4 people without loss of comfort. This leaves a certain imprint on the size of the steam room and shower, which must be heated and maintained at a certain temperature. A stone stove is optimal for these purposes. It warms up the rooms quickly enough and prevents them from cooling down quickly.

Source stroisovet.com

In the case of building a two-story bathhouse, the pipe from the stove is removed along interior wall attic and lined with brick. The material will receive heat from the pipe, heat up and will serve as an excellent source of maintaining the temperature in the room.

Another option is to install two water tanks. One is installed downstairs in the room with the stove, the other is on the second floor, connecting to the chimney pipe, which allows you to heat the water in the tank, releasing heat into the room.

For more information about which stove to choose for a bath, watch the video:

In a one-story building, the stove can be positioned as follows:

    Installation in a steam room. Standard option, allowing you to control the degree of heating “from the front rows”.

    Combined installation. When the front part of the stove is brought into the rest room and used to heat both rooms evenly.

    Separate installation. The stove is installed in the dressing room. At the same time, a woodpile or warehouse for other materials is also located there. If a more modern option is used heating devices, then this method allows you to change the temperature without entering the steam room.

Each option has its own advantages and is optimal for a specific bathhouse layout.

Source doka-realty.net.ru

Filling the rest room

After a hot steam room, you need to calm down and normalize your body temperature. The ideal place for this is the rest room. Each owner decides for himself what will be located here, selecting the content in accordance with his tastes and goals. However, it is worth taking the materials and equipment used with a high degree of responsibility.

    Furniture must be resistant to high temperature and moisture.

    When installing lighting fixtures, high-quality insulation is required.

    You should not install lamps that are too bright, as this will not allow you to relax.

It is also advisable to keep the room in the same style. This has no functional significance, but will speak volumes about your sense of style.

Source mirturbaz.ru

Location of the building on the site

The bathhouse is not the main building, so it is advisable to place it in the depths of the site, behind the house. This will give some privacy and increase the degree of comfort for vacationers.

If the layout of a 6 by 6 bathhouse does not provide space for a swimming pool, then in front of the entrance to the building you can install a barrel with cool water or equip a small pond, where it is so nice to take a dip after a hot steam room. If there is a separate exit to a natural body of water, the exit from the bathhouse should be located “facing” it in order to bring immersion into the water as close as possible and hide people from prying eyes.

Source pinterest.com

Photo examples of 6x6 baths

For 6 by 6 baths, the projects, photos of which are presented below in the assortment, are the most popular options.

Source test.srubyizbrevna.ru

Source kayrosblog.ru

Source 9dach.ru

Source lesoresurs.com

Source 9dach.ru

Source chance.ru

Source brusservis.ru

Source bouw.ru

Source m.2gis.ru

Conclusion

A 6x6 sauna is the best option for making your wishes come true. To build it, you only need to choose a project, and the professionals will do the rest for you. Building a small bathhouse on your property will allow you to feel all the charm of cleansing your soul and body, which no bath can provide. And the feeling of comfort and deep calm that you get after water procedures is hardly possible to find anywhere else.

Wood is a time-tested material for building a bathhouse. It not only retains heat, but also creates an optimal microclimate: phytoncides contained in coniferous wood improve the health of the air, and the ability to absorb and evaporate moisture helps regulate humidity. This section presents bathhouse projects made of 6 by 6 timber.

Baths 6 by 6 made of profiled timber

Profiled timber - modern replacement logs, which have been used in construction since time immemorial. Unlike a log, it has a rectangular or square section, which determines its aesthetic and operational properties.

  • Thanks to the larger contact area, the timber retains heat better and does not require large costs for insulating joints.
  • A bathhouse made of timber is easier to decorate. The walls from the inside do not need to be additionally sheathed or leveled - they are completely ready for installation of the finishing coating.
  • The tongue-and-groove system allows you to tightly connect the beams along the length and minimize the gaps between them. The shrinkage of the timber bath is minimal.

Bathhouses 6 by 6 allow you to comfortably organize the space: plan a bathroom, a place to store equipment and fuel, and allocate a recreation area. Classical sauna made of timber 6 by 6- these are 3-4 rooms:

  • A sink and a steam room, which are combined into one room.
  • Restroom.
  • The bathroom is especially important if the bathhouse will be used in winter.
  • Terrace.

The durability of a timber bathhouse is guaranteed if the assembly technology is followed and the quality lumber. Do you want to be sure of the result? Order construction baths 6 by 6 turnkey at the company "Brusovye Technologies". We have prepared more than 40 for you standard projects baths: with terraces and attics, vestibules and bathrooms. The options presented can serve as a source of your own ideas. Any of them can be modified, adapted to your requirements and conditions.

Masters " Timber technologies» undertake the preparation of lumber, delivery and turnkey assembly. Construction of a bathhouse on a site takes no more than 7 days. You can receive additional information on delivery times and costs by phone or email.

The price of building a log bathhouse 6x6 without finishing under the roof is 295,000 rubles

  • The foundation is support-column. 2 blocks per cabinet (for one-story houses) and 4 blocks in a cabinet per cement screed(for houses with an attic). Concrete blocks, solid, size 200x200x400 mm. The cabinets are installed on a compacted sand bed. Sand (PGS) is provided by the customer.
  • External walls - profiled timber of natural humidity with a section of 145x90 mm (wall thickness - 90mm) "block house" profile or straight.
  • In total, there are 16 crowns in the frame of the one-story baths. There are 17 crowns in the log house of the baths with the attic.
  • An open terrace (if any) on supports made of planed timber with a cross-section of 100*150 mm, with shrinkage jacks. The fencing is a handrail made of planed timber with a cross-section of 40*100 mm. Steps at the entrance.
  • The clear ceiling height of the first floor (from the floor joist to the floor beam) for one-story baths is 2.15 m (+/-50mm); for baths with an attic 2.29 m (+/- 50 mm)
  • The second floor is attic. Clear attic ceiling height (from floor beam to ceiling beam) – 2.25 m
  • The height of the roof at the ridge for one-story baths is 1.20 m.
  • The gables are a frame made of natural moisture boards with a section of 150*40 mm, 100*40 mm. Exterior decoration gables - lining (spruce/pine AB) 17*90 mm. Wind protection – NANOIZOL “A” (for buildings with an attic).
  • In the gables of one-story buildings, a door (1 piece) and ventilation hatches (1 piece for each gable, under the ridge) are installed.
  • In the gables of buildings with an attic, ventilation hatches are installed (3 pieces for each gable).
  • Eaves and roof overhangs with a width of 200 mm (for one-story buildings) and 300 mm (for buildings with an attic). The cornices and overhangs are hemmed with clapboard (spruce/pine AB) 17*90 mm.
  • Installation of window and doorways with a dressing crown, without installing casing bars.
  • Assembly of a house/bath on the customer's site.

The price of a turnkey 6x6 bathhouse with a foundation and stove is 450,000 rubles

  • The foundation is columnar. 2 blocks per cabinet (for one-story baths) and 4 blocks per cabinet on a cement screed (for baths with an attic). Concrete blocks, solid, size 200x200x400 mm. The cabinets are installed on a compacted sand bed. Sand (PGS) is provided by the customer.
  • Waterproofing – roofing felt in one layer.
  • The strapping is a beam of natural humidity with a cross-section of 150x100 mm. Along the outer perimeter the strapping is laid in two rows. The timber is treated with a protective compound.
  • Floor joists - natural moisture board with a section of 40x150 mm per edge, with a pitch of 600 mm.
  • The subfloor is a natural moisture board with a cross-section of 22x100mm. Steam, waterproofing – NANOIZOL S.
  • Floor insulation – 100mm KNAUF/URSA mineral wool (or equivalent). Vapor barrier – NANOIZOL V.
  • The finished floor of the first floor is dry tongue and groove batten(spruce/pine AB) 36mm thick. Every fifth board is fastened with self-tapping screws (for the possibility of re-upholstering the floors in the future).
  • External walls - profiled timber of natural humidity with a section of 145x90 mm (wall thickness - 90mm) "block house" profile or straight. A total of 16 crowns (for one-story baths) and 17 crowns (for baths with an attic).
  • The partitions of the first floor are profiled timber of natural humidity with a section of 145x90 mm, straight profile. They cut into external walls with a depth of up to 30mm.
  • Inter-crown insulation – jute fabric 6mm thick
  • Inter-crown connection - on a metal dowel (construction nail 6x200mm, 250mm).
  • Corner connection - “half a tree”. The outer corners of the log house are covered with clapboard (spruce/pine AB) 17*90 mm in two rows.
  • An open terrace (if any) on supports made of planed timber with a cross-section of 100*150 mm, with shrinkage jacks. The fencing is a handrail made of planed timber with a cross-section of 40*100 mm filled with carved balusters. Steps at the entrance.
  • The terrace floors are dry tongue-and-groove floorboards (spruce/pine AB) 36mm thick. They are attached with self-tapping screws to each board. The boards are laid in 5 mm increments.
  • The terrace ceilings are lining (spruce/pine AB) 17*90 mm. Vapor barrier – NANOIZOL V.
  • The clear ceiling height of the first floor (from floor to ceiling) is 2.10 m (+/- 50mm) for one-story bathhouses and 2.25 m (+/- 50mm) for bathhouses with an attic.
  • The ceiling lining of the first floor (except for the steam room) is lining (spruce/pine AB) 12.8*88 mm. (joint for layout is allowed)
  • The second floor is attic. Clear attic ceiling height (from floor to ceiling) – 2.20m
  • Floor insulation – 100mm mineral wool KNAUF/URSA (or equivalent). Vapor barrier NANOIZOL V.
  • The attic floors are dry tongue-and-groove floorboards (spruce/pine AB) 36mm thick. Every fifth board is fastened with self-tapping screws (for the possibility of re-upholstering the floors in the future).
  • The cladding of the walls and ceiling of the attic is lining (spruce/pine AB) 12.5*88 mm (a joint for layout is allowed).
  • Insulation of attic walls - 100mm basalt mats ROCKWOOL (or equivalent). Vapor barrier – NANOIZOL V.
  • The attic partitions are a frame made of natural moisture timber with a cross-section of 40*75 mm, sheathed on both sides with clapboard (spruce/pine AB) 12.5*88 mm. The partitions are not insulated.
  • Rafters - trusses made of natural moisture boards with a section of 150x40mm, 100x40mm. Installed in increments of 900-1000 mm.
  • The gables are a frame made of natural moisture boards with a section of 150*40 mm, 100*40 mm. The external finishing of the gables is lining (spruce/pine AB) 17*90 mm. . Wind, moisture protection – NANOIZOL “A” (for baths with an attic).
  • In the gables of one-story baths, a door (1 piece) and ventilation hatches (1 piece for each gable, under the ridge) are installed.
  • Ventilation hatches are installed in the gables of bathhouses with an attic (3 pieces for each gable).
  • The sheathing is a board of natural moisture with a cross-section of 22*100 mm, with a pitch of 300 mm. Counter-lattice - 20*40 mm slats, along the rafter slopes.
  • Roof covering – ONDULIN (burgundy, brown, green) or galvanized corrugated sheeting. Under-roof vapor barrier – NANOIZOL S.
  • Eaves and roof overhangs are 200 mm wide (for one-story baths) and 300 mm (for baths with an attic). The cornices and overhangs are hemmed with clapboard (spruce/pine AB) 17*90 mm.
  • The staircase to the attic is single-flight, on strings made of planed timber with a cross-section of 145*90 mm. Floorboard steps. The handrail and fencing in the attic are planed timber with a cross-section of 40*100 mm.
  • Finishing the walls and ceiling of the steam room - lining (aspen B) 14*90 mm (joint for layout is allowed). Reflective insulation on a foil base - NANOIZOL FB. Counter rail – 10*40 mm (ventilation gap – 10 mm). Before covering, the timber base of the walls is treated with a protective composition for baths and saunas NEOMID 200.
  • Two-tier shelf made of planed boards (aspen B) 28*90 mm. Joint width – 40 cm (height – 50 cm); Lounger width – 60 cm (height – 110 cm).
  • Installation of the ERMAK 12/ERMAK 16 stove with a hanging tank (stainless steel 35 l) for heating water.
  • The base of the stove is brick in one row. Cutting the combustion portal - brick.
  • Fire insulation - basalt cardboard, ceiling and roof passages, reflective screen made of smooth galvanized steel on basalt cardboard, flue sheet.
  • The chimney is vertical, with an outlet into the roof through the ceiling. Starting pipe - stainless steel 0.5 mm, stainless steel gate valve, stainless steel starting adapter, sandwich pipes 115 * 200 mm (stainless steel 0.5 mm * galvanized 0.5 mm), galvanized head.
  • Installation in a washing room shower tray 800*800 mm with siphon. The drainage outlet beyond the perimeter of the bathhouse is a plumbing PVC pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.
  • The windows are wooden, double glazed, with sealing and fittings (screw-in hinges, twist locks). Inward opening doors. Dimensions (h*w) 1200*1500 mm; 1200*1000 m; 1200*600 mm; 600*600 mm; 400*400 mm. Windows are installed in casing boxes.
  • The entrance door is wooden, paneled, solid (spruce/pine A). Size (h*w) 1800*800 mm (for one-story baths; 2000*800 mm (for baths with an attic). Handles, hinges. A padlock is installed on the front door.
  • Interior doors – bath, frame (aspen A). Size (h*w) 1750*750 mm. Handles, hinges.
  • Casing bars (swarms) are installed in window and door openings.
  • Sealing of corners, joints, abutments - spruce/pine A/aspen AB plinth.
  • Finishing of windows and doors – spruce/pine frame A on both sides, aspen AB
  • Nails for fastening parts are black construction nails.
  • Nails for fastening the lining – galvanized 2.5x50 mm
  • Nails for fastening plinths, layouts - finishing galvanized 1.8x50 mm.
  • Loading, delivery up to 400 km from Pestovo, Novgorod region, unloading of a set of material.
  • Assembly of the bathhouse at the customer's site.
  • BONUS. Accessories for the steam room. Stones – gabbro-diabase 40 kg.

We have compiled for you a convenient table of differences in the configurations of bathhouses for shrinkage and turnkey.

CONSTRUCTIVE

SHRINKABLE

FULL CONSTRUCTION

Columnar foundation made of concrete blocks 200*200*400

Yes

Yes

Double strapping made of timber 150*100 mm

Yes

Yes

Floor joists made of boards 40*150 per edge with a pitch of 600 mm

Yes

Yes

Subfloor made of boards 22*100/150 mm

No

Yes

Floor insulation with hydro and vapor barrier

No

Yes

Finish floor – dry tongue-and-groove floorboard 36 mm

No

Yes

Walls and partitions made of profiled timber of natural moisture with a cross-section of 145*90 mm (wall thickness – 90mm)

Yes

Yes

Assembling a log house on steel dowels

Yes

Yes

Corner connection - half a tree

Yes

Yes

Intercrown insulation - jute

Yes

Yes

Rafters - trusses made of timber 40*100/150 mm with a pitch of 900/1000 mm

Yes

Yes

Sheathing – board 20*100/150 mm

Yes

Yes

Roof covering – ondulin / galvanized corrugated sheet C20

Yes

Yes

The eaves and roof overhangs are lined with spruce/pine AB clapboard

Yes

Yes

Window and door openings with a dressing crown, without installing casing bars

Yes

No

Window and door openings with installation of casing bars

No

Yes

Installation of windows and doors

No

Yes

Ceiling lining – spruce/pine lining AB

No

Yes

Insulation + vapor barrier of floors/attics

No

Yes

Finishing the walls and ceiling of the attic - spruce/pine lining AB

No

Yes

Finishing the walls and ceiling of the steam room - aspen lining AB + shelves

No

Yes

Installation of stove and chimney

No

Yes

Installation of a shower tray 800*800 mm with a siphon in a washing room. Exiting the drain outside the perimeter of the bathhouse

No

Yes

Stairs to the attic

No

Yes

Finishing: plinth, platbands

No

Yes

Loading a set of material, delivering it up to 400 km from our base, unloading at the customer’s site

Yes

Yes

Name

Cost, rub)

Unit

Construction of foundations on screw piles or reinforced concrete foundations

8-921-930-69-80,
8-926-742-95-01

Decorative finishing of the plinth - pick-up ()

1000-1600

linear meters

Installation of reinforced concrete slabs 500*500*100 mm for support pedestals ( )

PC.

Protection (backing board) of the first row of strapping made of larch boards 50*150 mm ( )

linear meters

Protection (backing board) of the first row of strapping made of larch boards 50*200 mm ( )

linear meters

Double strapping made of timber 150x150mm

linear meters

Double strapping made of timber 150x200mm

linear meters

Installation of floor joists made of timber 150x100mm

linear meters

Installation of larch floors decking boards"corduroy" (for open terraces)()

2000

m*2 floors

Installation of finished floors from tongue-and-groove larch floorboards 27 mm ( )

2000

m*2 floors

External walls made of profiled timber are moisture resistant with a cross-section of 145x140mm, partitions are made of profiled timber. humidity section 145*90 mm

2500

linear meters external walls

External walls and partitions made of profiled timber chamber drying section 145x90 mm

2300

linear meters external walls

And partitions

External walls made of profiled kiln-drying timber with a cross-section of 145x140 mm, partitions made of profiled kiln-dried timber with a cross-section of 145x90 mm

4000

linear meters of external walls

The outer walls are made of profiled timber. humidity with a cross section of 145x190mm, partitions made of profiled timber. humidity section 145*90 mm

4500

linear meters of external walls

External walls are made of profiled chamber-drying timber with a cross-section of 145x190 mm, partitions are made of profiled chamber-drying timber with a cross-section of 145*90 mm.

5300

linear meters of external walls

Set of kiln-dried lumber ( )

1000

m*2 building area

Pairing crowns with a wooden dowel

1000

Assembling a log house using a SPRING UNIT FORCE ( )

2000

linear meters external walls and partitions of the log house

Assembling a log frame with the height of the crowns tied with steel studs

1500

linear meters external walls and partitions of the log house

Corner groove-tenon connection ( warm corner)

6000

one corner of the log house

Corner connection “into the bowl” ( )

from 30 000

house kit

Inter-crown insulation – holofiber()

300/450/600

linear meter of external walls of the log house

Increase in ceiling height by 14cm (+ one crown in the log house)

500/750/1000

linear meters external walls

and log partitions

Insulation 150mm

m*2 insulated area

The construction of a staircase on strings made of laminated veneer lumber, with wide steps, turned pillars, balusters and a figured handrail.

25000

PC.

Roof covering – metal tiles RAL 3005,5005,6005,7004, 7024,8017)

m*2 roof

Roof covering – corrugated sheeting with polymer coating(RAL 3005,5005,6005,7004, 7024,8017)

m*2 roof

Installation of a drainage system (PVC, DEKE)

1200

linear meters roof slope

Installation of corner snow barriers ( )

linear meters roof slope

Construction of tubular snow barriers ( )

1300

linear meters roof slope

Attic structure: sparse flooring made of edged boards along the ceiling beams, a door in one of the gables + dormer window in the opposite gable

m*2 ceiling

External finishing of gables – house block spruce/pine AB 28*140

m*2 gable area

External finishing of gables - imitation timber 18*140 mm

m*2 gable area

Processing the entire building fire-retardant composition NEOMID ( )

m*2 building area

Surface treatment with oil for terraces NEOMID ( )

m*2 floors

Treating the walls and ceiling of the steam room and washing room with NEOMID varnish “for baths and saunas” ( )

m*2 walls and ceiling

Treatment of the ends of the log house with NEOMID TOR PLUS ( )

opening/corner

Treatment of shelves in the steam room with NEOMID oil ( )

1000

m*2 shelf

Finishing walls and ceilings with washing lining made of larch 14*90mm ( )

1500

m*2 walls and ceiling

Installation of a “leaky floor” in a washing room ( )

5000

m*2 floors

Finishing with paired lining OSIN A, including shelves - OSIN A

m*2 walls and ceiling

Finishing with paired lining LIPA A, including shelves - LIPA A

1200

m*2 walls and ceiling

Finishing with paired lining LIPA EXTRA, including shelves - LIPA Extra more details more details)

35 000

PC.

Installation of PVC windows with single-chamber double-glazed windows

from 4000

PC.

Installation of PVC windows with double-glazed windows

from 5000

PC.

Installation of a heat exchanger in the ERMAK furnace, installation of a remote tank (stainless steel 60 l) on the washing room wall, hot water supply metal-plastic pipes

20000

PC.

Installation of a tank (stainless steel 50 l) on a pipe above the stove, with a tap leading to the washing room

13 000

PC.

Installation of another ERMAK furnace (

12 000/16000

set

Chimney device made of stainless steel 0.8 mm thick (includes a protective screen and a stainless steel inlet sheet)

16 000/20000

set

Delivery over 400 km from Pestovo, Novgorod region.

km

Construction shed 2.0*3.0 / 4.0 m ()

from 21 000

PC.

The whole country rests on such workers

Alexey Gennadievich!!! Due to lack of time, I couldn’t write to you - thank you very much for the work of your employees in building the bathhouse, two young men, unfortunately, I don’t know their names, they worked clearly and harmoniously, the quality of the bathhouse is EXCELLENT!!! The whole country rests on such workers. All our friends and relatives also noted the impeccable work of the guys, which resulted in the bathhouse we dreamed of.

The guys built us an amazing bathhouse

I would like to express my deep gratitude to Alexey (general director), Sergey Zorin and Vladimir Chistyakov (builders)! At the beginning of August, the guys built us a stunning bathhouse, taking into account all our wishes. The delivery of materials was carried out on time, the construction was completed even ahead of the time agreed upon earlier, the quality of materials and work was excellent top level. In general, just a fairy tale! I advise you to build only with Russian carpenters!

"Price quality"

The work is pleasing to the eye. Fast, high quality, on time. I thank the team of guys (Evgeny, Dmitry, Sergey) and general director Alexey Roslov for the work done. I ordered a bathhouse with a 6x6 attic, project B-20, with minor changes, “for shrinkage.” All work was completed ahead of schedule and with high quality. All my wishes were taken into account. I was very pleased with Alexey Roslov’s attitude towards his work. He always promptly and competently answered all my questions and resolved controversial issues. The team, despite the young age of the guys, worked quickly and smoothly, and at the end they gave advice on caring for the timber and preserving it for the winter. IN next year I will do the finishing with the same team. "Russian Carpenters" wins in all respects compared to other large companies. “Price-quality” is about them. Again Thanks a lot. I will recommend it to everyone.

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