How to make metal entrance doors yourself. Self-production of a metal door: an exclusive door on your own. Installation of door hinges

Do you need a normal iron door, but prices on the market are “biting”? There is an option to build it yourself. Let's look together at how to make a metal door with your own hands, starting with preparing tools, purchasing material and sketching a sketch, and ending with insulation and finishing.

Do iron door very real.

Making a metal door with your own hands is quite a realistic task for an amateur, but there is one caveat: you must be able to work fluently with an angle grinder and have at least basic knowledge of a welding machine. But before you make the door itself, you need to prepare the tools and material.

Tool selection

Bulgarian;
Welding machine;
Screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
Electric drill with impact function or hammer drill;
Round “bastard” file;
Hammer;
Roulette;
Kern;
Level (preferably 1.5 m);
Square.

Home handyman's tool.

In addition, you will need a variety of accessories for power tools. This refers to discs for an angle grinder for metal, a cord brush for an angle grinder, drill bits for a drill, emery and other small things without which it is impossible to make a metal door with your own hands.

Purchasing material for making a metal door

For iron doors you need to buy:

Metal sheet with a thickness of 1.5 to 3 mm;
Profiled pipe 40x20 mm – minimum 7 – 8 m;
Corner 50x50 mm - about 7 m;
Strip 40x4 mm – 2 m;
Ordinary male-female or articulated hinges – 2 pcs.

If in welding work oh you don't have great experience, then it’s better to take a thicker sheet for the entrance doors, at least 2 mm, and preferably 3 mm. Welding metal doors the matter is not particularly difficult, but it is very easy to burn through a thin sheet.

Material for metal doors

You will also need a good, level table or some kind of trestle; making a metal door on the ground is very difficult, and for a novice craftsman it is not at all realistic.

Making a sketch

Professional drawings for standard iron doors can now be found, but the problem is that these documents were made according to GOST 31173-2003, that is, 2200x900 mm or 2200x1200 mm (for wide openings).

Professional drawing for a door welded from metal

The entrance metal door in an apartment or private house does not always correspond to the standard, so it is better to draw up a sketch. Otherwise, on a non-standard opening you will have to either cut out part of the slope or somehow seal the gap next to the door.

An example of a sketch for a non-standard iron door.

Since we are making an iron door with our own hands, then at the stage of creating a sketch we need to take into account some tolerances; they are shown in the example below:

The starting dimensions of the doorway are 216x90 cm;
It is impossible to make a frame (lutka) close to the walls, since there will be nowhere to pour the mounting foam, so along the top edge we leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 5 mm for the thickness of the corner;
At the bottom we make a small threshold, respectively, 25 mm will be cut off from the corner, leaving a total of 212 cm for the height of the frame along the inner perimeter;
On the sides we also leave 10 mm for foam, plus 10 mm is the thickness of the metal in 2 corners, for a total width of the internal opening of 87 cm;
Samu steel door, or rather the frame under it, cannot be made close to the scuttle; if the house starts to “walk” and the scuttle moves a little, the canvas will jam. Therefore, we leave a gap of 5 mm along the outer perimeter, respectively, it turns out 211x86 cm;
We take a larger sheet (90x215 cm), since it will overlap part of the loot.

The tools have been prepared, the material has been purchased, a sketch has been made, now you can start building iron doors with your own hands.

Seven stages of steel door assembly

You can make metal doors with your own hands only from a corner or only from a profiled pipe, but the mixed version turns out to be more reliable and practical. It is better to weld the outer frame (frame) from a 50x50 mm corner, and the frame for the door leaf from a 40x20 mm profiled pipe.

Stage No. 1. We cook the loot

First of all, we cut off the corners according to the diagram and fix them on the work table or sawhorses with clamps. Here it is important that the lower plane is flat and the corners meet at 90º. We check the rectangle of the box by its diagonals, if they are the same, then the corners will be right.

Fixing the frame with clamps.

You shouldn’t scald the corners right away, they can lead, first we grab them at several points and measure the diagonals again until everything is boiled, you can still adjust minor inaccuracies.

Spot tack.

When scalding corners, first apply all the vertical seams, and then move on to the horizontal ones, so the metal will overheat less. We will cut out the excess part of the corner later.

Welding corners.

Now we turn the frame over and check the plane with a long level or any even standard. There should be no distortions or bends.

Checking the plane of the frame.

We boil the external joints and immediately sand these seams with a grinder.

Welding external seams.

As shown in the photo above, we still have a piece of the corner left uncut from the inside; it needs to be removed, as it will interfere with installation. To do this, turn the frame over again and cut out the excess parts with a grinder. The loot is ready, now you can move on to the frame for the iron door.

Cut out the excess parts.

Stage No. 2. Frame for the door leaf

When cutting profiled pipes for the frame of a door leaf, first measure out all the long parts, and then cut out the short ones from the rest. Otherwise, you may not guess, and then large vertical posts will have to be welded from pieces.

It is better to make the slot for the lock right away. To do this, measure 1 m from the bottom of the post and make 2 vertical cuts according to the dimensions of the lock, and cut this strip diagonally in the middle. To make the pieces easier to break out, we make small cuts on them; the arrows in the photo point to these cuts.

Initial fitting of the lock.

To ensure that the frame of the door leaf fits neatly into place, we fix the profiled pipes with clamps inside Lutki. Don’t forget: there should be a gap of 5 mm between the profiled pipe and the corner; to do this, insert spacers. You can use the same corner trims as spacers.

Fixing the profiled pipe on the frame.

It's important here how to put profiled pipes, any such pipe has a welded seam, so this seam should “look” into the fabric.

Welding seam of a profiled pipe.

When constructing a frame for a door leaf, it is no longer necessary to check the diagonals, since we are “attached” to the outer frame. The corners are welded by analogy with the loot, that is, we grab it at several points, and then weld the joints from the center to the edges.

Welding door frame corners.

Here, while the frame is in the sump, we weld the transverse stiffeners; they are made from a profiled pipe.

Fastening of stiffeners.

Now we remove the clamps, remove the outer frame and weld the ends of the joints in the corners, after which we sand all the seams. Be careful, the metal is thin and burns easily.

It is necessary to grind the weld seams on the outside.

Always control where your top, bottom, hinges and lock are. At this stage it is very easy to get confused and then it will be difficult to correct the situation without losses.

Stage No. 3. Attaching the sheet

First we need to cut the sheet to size. From the frame of the door leaf to the edge of the sheet we leave 20 mm (5 mm for the gap, plus 15 mm for the overlap of the slit). To cut the sheet exactly according to the markings, you can use a profiled pipe; simply secure it with clamps and cut along the edge with a grinder.

Standard for cutting sheets with a grinder.

We place the door frame on the cut sheet, check that the overlap is clearly observed everywhere, and spot weld the profiled pipes to the sheet (steps of about 100 - 150 mm). To prevent the frame from moving during welding, it can be secured with clamps.

You grab the frame not along the perimeter, but diagonally. That is: we welded one point, then moved to the opposite one, and so on until everything was scalded. Otherwise, the design may fail.

Spot welding of door leaf.

Stage No. 4. How to weld hinges

Illustrations	Recommendations
	We buy ordinary awnings, the male-male type (male with a pin). Canopies must be lubricated immediately before installation.
	There should be 20 - 25 cm from the bark cloth to the canopies, both above and below.
	The canopy should be slightly raised so that the sheet does not cling to the frame when opening.
	The canopy is positioned so that when viewed from above, there is a gap of 1 - 2 mm between it and the sheet.
	Before how to cook structure, place a spacer (a piece of the same sheet) under the sheet. The gap is needed for the rubber seal.
	We scald the awnings.
	To keep the canopy more secure, you can weld metal plate with an overlap on the canvas frame, but this is more of a recommendation than a rule.

Stage No. 5. We cut into the lock

The lock has already been inserted into the door frame, now you need to try it on and mark the places of the cuts in the door.

Marking for holes in the corner.

We drill holes for the keyhole with a large drill, and then bring it to the right size a round bastard file.

Hole for keyhole.

The holes in the corner for the lock itself are cut out with a grinder and also processed with a file. It is advisable to cover the lock bolts from the inside with a metal casing; it can be made from a profiled pipe or angle, the casing must be welded.

Cover for protecting the lock bolts.

Now all that remains is to try on the overlay on done earlier holes and you can proceed to facing work.

Installation of the lock escutcheon.

Stage No. 6. Cladding and insulation

It is cheaper and best to insulate iron doors with foam plastic; as a rule, PSB-S-25 slabs with a thickness of 40 mm are used. The slab is cut slightly smaller than the opening, and the gap is then filled in polyurethane foam.

Insulation entrance doors polystyrene foam.

There is no need to insulate entrance doors with mineral wool. The fact is that any cotton wool is afraid of moisture and shrinks after getting wet, so after a couple of years such insulation will stop working.

The inside of the structure can be covered with any board you like, from OSB to laminated MDF.

Laminated MDF door trims.

You can also read a more detailed article on insulating metal doors -.

The outer front of the doors can also be finished with a laminated board, but it will be easier and cheaper to paint the metal hammer paint, this is done like this:

All metal is cleaned with a cord brush (it is convenient to use a cord attachment on an angle grinder);
The structure is degreased with acetone or gasoline;
The metal is coated with primer for the previously selected hammer paint;
Apply 2-3 layers of paint with a brush, roller or spray gun.

Painting iron doors with hammer paint.

Stage No. 7. Installation of metal doors

To secure the iron doors, you must first weld unique shanks made from a 40x4 mm strip around the perimeter of the door.

Shanks for fastening iron doors.

The structure is installed in the following sequence:

Insert the loot into the doorway;
Use a hammer drill to drill blind holes in the slopes through shanks;
Next, you can hammer in metal crutches or fix the structure with anchor bolts;
Hang the door leaf;
Blow out the gaps around the perimeter of the tray with polyurethane foam;
The door is installed, now all that remains is to cut off the excess dried foam and arrange the slopes.

This is how you install an iron door with your own hands.

Conclusion

As you can see in home “production”, without professional schemes and expensive equipment, I assembled a good iron door with my own hands and it cost about half as much as the factory equivalent.

WITH good decor homemade door will look no worse than the factory one.

Even a novice master can do this if he knows how to handle a welding machine.

Of course, you won’t be able to create a complex model right away, but making and installing a basic model of an entrance door is quite affordable.

The importance of the front door cannot be underestimated.

This is not only the first and main line that prevents dishonest citizens from entering your home, but also one of the key details of the interior of a residential building.

Sound insulation and regulation of air temperature in the room are two more functions of a metal entrance door.

And if you start in an apartment major renovation, then the question of installing a new metal entrance door is one of the first to be decided.

A ready-made door purchased in a store does not at all guarantee that it is missing hidden defects, and the prices there are not always affordable, adjusting it will be difficult, and the sound insulation will probably not suit you.

Well, self-made shaped doors are still ahead of you, but we’ll start with the simplest.

As in other cases, the manufacture of a metal door begins with paper work, in other words, we have to create a drawing.

In order for the drawing to be accurate and true to reality, you have to decide on the dimensions.

Offered for review design diagram entrance door will introduce you to the names and locations of the main components and elements.

Preparing the diagram

A drawing of a metal entrance door is a large-scale diagram of the door leaf, according to which the assembly and installation of the product will be carried out, with dimensions marked on it door frame, locations of stiffeners and hinges.

We arm ourselves with a tape measure and take measurements from the doorway.

The standard door size is 90 x 200 cm; if the actual dimensions of the opening are significantly larger than the data, it makes sense to install a separate block on top or on the side of the door leaf.

The side block can be made blind or hinged, and the top block can be closed sheet iron, glaze or lattice.

We also apply all this to our drawing.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm smaller than the doorway - this will be the installation gap in which the installation of the block is adjusted to avoid distortions. Below is a sectional diagram of a metal door.

Most often, the door is attached to 2-4 hinges, their number depends on the weight of your structure.

Hinges can be external or hidden; the second option is more difficult to manufacture and requires certain skills.

Since we are trying to make a “door for beginners,” we will focus on the first option.

To distribute the load evenly, the hinges should be made at an equal distance from each other, and the top and bottom hinges should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the door.

You can make stiffening ribs in any direction - horizontally, vertically or in a mesh, as well as diagonally - everything is at your discretion.

The ribs must be made so that they do not pass through the places where the lock, peephole, door handle.

You determine the number of ribs yourself; it must ensure that the door does not bend under its own weight, otherwise the door will require repairs after some time.

So, the drawing is ready.

Preparing materials and tools

Having decided on the dimensions, we prepare a set of tools that we will need during the work, calculate the amount of materials needed and go to the store.

We offer you a sample list of tools:

welding machine;
drill;
a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
Bulgarian;
clamps;
files or Sander;
trestles or door table for assembly;
measuring instruments (corner; tape measure, etc.);
building level.

For a standard size metal door you will need:

steel sheet 2-3 mm thick - 100 x 200 cm;
metal corner 3;2 x 3;2 cm – 6 running meters (for door frame);
profile pipe 5 x 2;5 cm - about 9 l.m. (for the door frame and stiffeners);
metal plates 40 x 4 cm, 2-3 mm thick - at least 4 pieces (for attaching the door frame to the walls);
door hinges;
lock;
accessories;
anchor bolts;
anti-corrosion coating;
metal paint;
polyurethane foam.

Choose fittings and locks to suit your taste. Manufacturers offer big choice locks, the most reliable of which are considered to be three-sided.

A lock with bolts on three sides is, of course, more difficult to install, but it is also not easy to break into.

If you are making a metal door for a utility room (shed), then it is permissible to make a lightweight one economical option– in this case, instead of a profile pipe, a thick reinforcing rod is used for the stiffeners.

Door assembly

The work of assembling a metal door is carried out in several stages.

Assembling the box

You need to make blanks for the box from the corrugated pipe, cut the corners inward at an angle of 90°, lay out the corner into a rectangle, secure it with clamps and weld it in place.

Afterwards, we check the perpendicularity of the sides with a square, and also measure the distance between diagonally opposite pairs of angles and compare, the resulting measurements should be equal.

If there is misalignment, additional adjustment will be required. If everything is in order, then we perform final welding and grinding of the seams.

We will use the same scheme a little later to assemble the door frame.

We weld metal mounting plates to the box.

Assembling the door leaf

Here we need a new measurement - we take measurements along the inner walls of the door frame.

By stepping back 7-10 cm on each side, we get the actual dimensions of the frame of our metal door.

We saw sections of the required length from the corners and carry out preliminary processing, similar to the blank for a door frame.

We place the prepared corners inside the finished box, forming a rectangle, and carry out a control measurement of the correctness of the design.

If necessary, we make adjustments and weld the joints tightly.

We proceed to the manufacture of the door leaf, for which we lay the steel sheet on the table (horses), place the finished frame on top and draw a contour of the required dimensions, retreating from the outer edges of the frame by about 10 cm.

We cut the sheet along the contour, grind the cut points and weld it to the frame.

Be careful, to avoid deformation, do not weld with a continuous, unbroken seam.

It is much more functional to weld in lengths of about 30 mm at intervals of 15-20 mm in the direction from the center to the edges of the product.

Take your time, periodically let the door cool down, otherwise hidden defects may appear, and the door will have to be repaired within a short period of time.

Place the door leaf on the table outer side down, you need to install a door frame on top.

Using pads 2-5 mm thick around the entire perimeter, the position of the box relative to the frame is adjusted.

A sealing tape will later be installed into this gap, which will improve the qualities of the door such as sound insulation.

Ready door leaf make cuts under internal lock and, if necessary, under the peephole, drill holes for attaching the door handle, carefully sand the edges of the holes.

The size of the cut for the lock should be such that its installation is free of play, but provides access to the lock if repairs are required.

We will embed the lock itself and install the fittings a little later.

If you are using the padlock, then you need to install linings for it at the same level of the door leaf and frame.

We attach the halves to the door frame door hinges with grooves, weld the second parts of the hinges (with pins pointing upward) in the appropriate places to the door frame so that they are located on the same axis, grind the welding points.

Some hinges are equipped with holes for lubrication; in this case, their installation should provide access to the service holes and the ability to remove the door if repairs need to be made.

We wipe the metal structure from dust and shavings so that hidden defects do not appear after painting, apply anti-corrosion protection, on top of which, after drying, you can perform tinting or make a decorative finish.

You can learn more about the manufacturing process of a metal entrance door in more detail and visually using the video below.

We mount the door

We place the door frame in the opening and make adjustments using a plumb line and level so that you don’t have to make repairs in the near future.

Having achieved correct position boxes, we carry out installation, securing the steel hinges to the wall using anchors, and hanging the door leaf on the hinges.

We check - if the installation is done correctly, the metal door will close and open without distortion, without catching on the door frame, and the hinges will move effortlessly.

On final stage The peephole is installed, the lock is inserted and the handle is installed.

The lock and handle are bolted to the door so that they can be repaired or replaced without any problems in the future.

After installing the lock, rub the end sides of the bolts with chalk and make marks on the door frame. We cut out the metal according to the resulting marks, forming grooves for the crossbars.

For additional protection To protect the lock from possible hacking, we weld a piece of corner to the door leaf at the exit points of the crossbars; it also makes sense to reinforce the door leaf at the place where the lock is installed by welding a 6 mm thick steel sheet on its inside.

At the same stage, adjustments are made to the operation of the lock and the tightness of closing the door.

Another video for those doing repairs gives very relevant recommendations on how to properly strengthen the door and install the lock, and how to adjust it.

Now you can begin the final finishing.

At the very beginning of the article, it was already mentioned that the metal door at the entrance to the house should perform some functions, such as sound insulation, preventing foreign odors and low-temperature air from outside from entering the room.

Ordinary polystyrene foam is generally recognized as the most practical, effective and cheapest insulating material for finishing doors.

We cut the foam into pieces of the required size and place them without gaps in the space of the door leaf between the stiffeners.

For better sealing We will use polyurethane foam, which we will use to seal the space between the foam and the stiffeners, around the lock, and we will also foam the internal space of the stiffeners through pre-drilled holes.

Sound insulation is also excellently provided by mineral wool.

The inside of a metal door can be sheathed wooden slats, MDF panels or others finishing material, and apply sealing tape around the perimeter of the door leaf.

Foaming mounting clearances between the door frame and the doorway slopes. Our design is ready for use!

Now you can be sure that there are no hidden defects in this design, the quality of the metal entrance door is 100%, and doing the work yourself has allowed you to save a considerable amount from the family budget when performing repairs.

The installation of a metal entrance door is demonstrated to us by craftsmen in this video tutorial.

The preparation stage for the manufacture of a metal door includes measuring the entrance opening and planning its structure. When making calculations, in addition to the size of the box, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the insulation layer and exterior finishing, in the presence of which the noise insulation and sound insulation of the door significantly increases. After this you need to do detailed drawing, which includes the main elements of an iron door: its leaf, hinges, stiffeners and frame. The resulting drawing will allow you to determine required dimensions solid metal sheet for making a door leaf using them with your own hands, structural stiffening ribs and the total quantity necessary materials. Regular door metal box It has standard sizes 2000x800mm. For a larger opening height, it is necessary to manufacture an additional upper frame or a side frame if the opening is more than 800 mm wide.

Tools and materials

If the drawing of the future metal entrance door has been made and its data has been verified, you can begin equipping the workplace with materials and tools. For work you will need:

metal corners for the door leaf and door frame;
door hinges, their number depends on the size of the door and its weight;
construction foam;
welding machine;
steel sheet having a thickness of at least 2 mm;
drill;
angle grinder “grinder”, equipped with a disk for cutting metal;
reliable door lock and handle;
facing material - plywood, veneer or boards;
anchor bolts for fastening.

The list of materials is quite approximate; it can be made and adjusted with your own hands depending on the design, functional purpose doors and insulation used.

Making a metal door

Correct installation of an entrance door involves four main stages: creating a frame with your own hands, creating a door leaf, installing the necessary fittings and external cladding.

Each of these stages has its own characteristics:

In order to make a metal door with your own hands, you need to follow these steps step by step:

According to the selected dimensions of the leaf and door frame, you need to cut a corner with a section of 50x25 or 40x20mm and place it on a welding table, which it is advisable to place in the workshop before starting work. Then the diagonals and angles of the future frame are checked. The diagonals of the resulting rectangle must be the same. If the result is satisfactory, you can start welding.
From the manufactured box to its internal space you need to take the dimensions, providing a gap of 0.5-1cm on each side of the perimeter. After this, you should cut a corner with a section of 40x25mm - the future basis of the metal entrance door leaf. At the level of the planned lock, a slot is made in the profile using a grinder; you can also install slats into it yourself to install insulation and simplify the work on door trim.
To ensure the convenience of welding work, at this step you need to weld the hinge profile to the hinges and the box. In this case, it is necessary to measure with great accuracy the distance between the hinges of the box and the frame to ensure their perfect match. This will help you easily hang the door on simple or hidden hinges.
Then the parallelism of the profiles of the leaf and the door frame is checked. After this, the remaining profiles are placed in it and fixed by welding.
Now you need to weld a metal sheet into a joint. When measuring the canvas, you need to take into account that it is taken with a margin of 1.5 cm more on the side of the locking mechanisms and 1 cm more on the other sides. The sheet should be cut according to the specified dimensions, and then laid on a frame of profiles connected by welding.
You need to weld the loop part on the back side of the sheet, and after that you need to weld along its entire perimeter with your own hands.
Then you need to weld a false strip from the inside of the sheet. To reliably strengthen the entire structure of the front door, you can weld several additional stiffeners.
After completing the welding work, you should clean the seams and anti-corrosion paint the door, regardless of whether you will sheathe it or not.
To install the lock, you need to make a hole in the corner of the frame for the bolt of the locking mechanism to fit in, and form a slot at the end of the door leaf for its installation. Then you need to make holes for the handle, key and mechanism fasteners.
At the final step of manufacturing a metal door, you need to install its cladding yourself. Many materials are suitable for this: wooden planks, PVC film, forged decorative elements and others.

Door insulation

Iron doors must be insulated. At the same time, their noise insulation increases significantly. The work can be done with your own hands using sheet materials. First, you should attach a heat-reflecting material such as foil insulation from the inside of the door. Sound insulation is placed on top of it - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane or any other type of insulation with such properties. Sealing joints and cracks door design performed using sealant. The fit of the door leaf to the frame is sealed using a glued rubber strip, and the noise insulation of the door is greatly increased. The door sound insulation is covered with an MDF panel or a sheet of plywood and the entire casing is secured using screws or liquid nails.

Door installation

There are two methods to install a metal entrance door. The first of them is used if the front door is located in the same plane as the wall. The second method is used if there is door slopes from the side of the room.

Fastening the door to metal plates

Most often, installation of a metal door to a wall is carried out using metal plates. Such plates can be installed on the side profiles of the box, based on the calculation of three pieces on each side. This technology can be used when installing the door from the inside flush with the wall surface.

Anchor bolt mounting

This installation is used when the door needs to be moved inside the wall mass, which makes it impossible to use plates. To install the door you will need welding.

The door is installed on spacers and three holes are made in the side posts of its frame on each side.
Through the resulting holes, pieces of metal rod 12 cm or more in length are driven into the wall. The ends of the rods are welded to the door frame. Welding is performed through the cavity of the side of the box. This eliminates sagging that could prevent the door from closing.
After this, the space between the door and the opening is filled with polyurethane foam. All that remains is to wait for it to harden.
As you can see, making and installing a metal door with your own hands is not such a complicated task. Subject to the right technology and careful work, you can get a high-quality and economically feasible result.

A do-it-yourself metal door often surpasses many factory samples in both quality and reliability. It’s not without reason that they say that a house is a small fortress, and the front door is a fortress gate. And it’s difficult to add anything to this. After all, if entrance doors are ordered at the market or in a supermarket, this is not a guarantee that the doors are of high quality and reliable. On the other hand, often the situation associated with the need to weld and install a temporary structure for the period of repair makes the idea of doing everything yourself quite realistic and relatively cheap.

DIY metal door - from idea to practical implementation

Conventionally, an independent embodiment of an idea put together from sets metal pipes, plates and corners, a real metal front door does not require extensive plumbing experience. True, we must immediately admit that assembling a metal door with your own hands will present certain difficulties. But with thoughtful organization of work and the availability of tools, many mistakes can not only be avoided, but also corrected in time.

The first step is to determine what kind of structure it will be:

a lightweight temporary structure for the period until a real armored door is purchased;
a structure that is planned for construction for a certain time as an entrance door to the corridor from the landing;
a normal entrance door to an apartment or house with insulation and a reliable lock;
a monumental structure for centuries with the firm confidence that the door will protect against any vandals.

Based on this, forces, time, and necessary materials. The entire process of work is planned from taking measurements to installing external and internal lining doors. Conventionally, a door from a profile pipe is created with your own hands in several stages:

initial stage - taking measurements, preparing a drawing, selecting and ordering materials, preparing tools;
stage of development of individual components and connections, preparation of a slipway or assembly table for work;
creating a door block, welding doors, fitting, installing locking devices, installing metal sheets;
installation of a door in a doorway, fixing, finishing;
installation of cladding and internal filler, adjustment of systems.

Although this work scheme contains a large number of points, but step-by-step implementation their excellent result will be guaranteed.

Preparatory stage - where to start

It is not difficult to guess that an iron door is created with your own hands from metal pipes, angles, channels and sheet metal. But you should start by organizing your workplace and selecting tools for the job. It’s worth remembering that you can’t have enough tools. Having always learned to work with one tool, it turns out that it is more convenient to use several more tools for work. So for normal operation need to prepare:

metal ruler, scriber, tape measure, metal square, crayons;
a grinder with a set of cutting, cleaning and grinding abrasive wheels;
with a set of metal drills and a center punch;
welding machine, here it is preferable to choose an inverter, it is today optimal choice for newbies;
hammers of different weights;
files for metal - triangular, round, square, flat;
magnetic holders - multi-profile, with a mandatory angle of 90 degrees;
clamps, clamps, clamps;
Be sure to wear a welder's mask and gloves for working with hot metal.

The next point is organizing the workplace, because before you weld a metal door yourself, you need to at least prepare a platform for laying out all the elements for fitting. It is ideal to have a mounting table or workbench for this, but you can first prepare a simple flat area on concrete or OSB.

A do-it-yourself metal door will require the following materials:

metal profile 20x40 mm - 22-24 linear meters;
sheet metal - 1x2 meters with a thickness of 2.5-2.8 mm;
hinges for fastening the door with bearings;
lock with overhead handles;
to fill the internal volume;
insulation and material for external and internal door cladding.

Marking and preparing parts for assembly

At the stage of preparing parts, the design of metal doors, a drawing of which is drawn to scale, is drawn in the form of separate drawings - the elaboration concerns how the parts will be attached and what the sequence of work will be. Detailed drawings make it possible to minimize errors and waste when cutting metal.

When transferring drawings to metal, you need to clearly understand how a metal door is structured, which elements require special precision, and for which it is necessary to make a gap of 1-2 mm. For the door frame, it is important that all parts are made with the smallest deviations, especially if the profile pipe will be butt welded along 45 degree cuts.

The first step is to prepare the door frame. Tolerances on the outside should be no more than 1 cm in relation to the doorway. And here inner part must be ideal in all planes.

A do-it-yourself metal door, the drawings of which are developed taking into account the installation of safe locks with fixation at several points on the block, must be reinforced internal frame from a profile pipe or angle.

In the process of laying out the door block parts on the assembly table, the installation location is determined:

anchor bolts for fastening the block to the wall;
door hinges;
key holes and fixing the safe mechanism;

Even before welding the hinges to the metal door and connecting the block into a single structure, it is recommended to drill the necessary holes in the profile, and only after that proceed with final assembly.

Door block assembly

When creating a metal door with your own hands, assembling the door block and the frame of the door itself have a lot in common. In both cases it is an assembly of simple rectangles. Assembly technology using welding joints of profile pipes at an angle of 45 degrees provides for:

preparing a profile with pre-cut corners;
laying out all the parts in one plane;
check internal corners door block;
with the help of several touches of the electrode, the structure is literally seized into one whole;
using a square, the correctness of right angles is checked, and internal diagonals are measured with a tape measure;
the entire structure is welded with a construction seam.

Before welding a door from a profile pipe, the finished door block is tried on in place of the opening. Next, using a stripper and grinding wheels The grinders remove the beads and form beautiful, even seams.

Door frame assembly

A do-it-yourself entrance door made of metal is welded using the same technology as the door block, with the only difference being that its dimensions must be as accurate as possible from the outside of the structure.

In fact, the door block in this case can be used as a template for laying out parts and fixing the frame before welding. The first step during assembly is welding the door hinges. The parts are adjusted so that at the top the gap between the block and the door itself is 2-3 mm, but at the bottom the gap needs to be made larger - up to 3-5 mm. When using simple garage hinges in the design, they need to be welded on top of the frame and block. For loops hidden installation need to be provided extra space in the door block. To do this, it makes sense to make the side where the hinges are attached from a pipe of a larger cross-section. A gap at the bottom of 5-7 mm between the door and the block is needed because the armored door is welded with your own hands from 3-4 mm metal, and the weight of the door over time causes wear in the hinges, gradually lowering the door.

After welding the hinges and guide, we begin welding the frame of the door itself. Door block placed horizontally on a flat surface. Using a level, its position is checked. Pipes, cut to size using wooden planks, are laid out level inside the block. The gaps between the door frame and the block are established using wooden wedges or plastic crosses for installing tiles.

Further, as with the block, temporary fixation is carried out with individual points. After checking the corners and diagonals, the final welding of all elements into one unit. After welding the door frame, the entire structure is raised and checked in a vertical position. If the door opens and closes easily without touching the block, you can begin installing internal struts and locks.

When forming the frame, all elements must be fixed in one plane. Metal tends to deform during welding. As a result, homemade metal doors made with your own hands turn out to be curved.

Installation of a lock and locking hardware

There can be no trifles in the question of how to weld a metal door with your own hands. Especially when it comes to safety. Installation of the lock and safe hooks must be carried out during the manufacturing process of the door frame.

While the frame is not sheathed metal sheet It is convenient to make holes in it and install a lock. When placing the lock, you need to keep in mind that an armored door, like any other, can be lowered during operation. This means that locking mechanism should be placed so that when the door is lowered, it cannot jam.

The gap between the bottom of the lock tongue and the bottom of the hole in the block must be no less than the gap between the door and the threshold of the block. Marking on the door frame mounting hole this fact must be taken into account. Alternatively, you can cut an opening in the door frame to size mounting plate castle Then, simply make a mounting strip from a metal strip and weld it into the body from the inside.

The second installation option involves making a slot in the door frame pipe and filing it to the desired size. However, the lock may prevent the door from closing. It simply will not allow the door to close if the gap between the frame and the block is less than 4 mm.

Installation of metal sheet

The final stage of assembling the metal door structure is installing the door tightly onto the frame. The marking of the sheet is carried out last, when the entire structure is ready.

Before welding a metal door into the final structure with your own hands, it is recommended to attach the block to a sheet. Circle it with chalk to visualize how much metal needs to be removed and from which side.

When installing the sheet, the external loops must also be outlined. Because you will need to specially cut openings for them in the sheet.

Having adjusted the sheet to size, it is installed on the mounting table and the door frame is placed on top. Welding is carried out with reverse polarity, the fact is that when thin metal is used, it simply begins to deform or at the welding sites, a burn-through is formed - a hole in the thin metal. When changing the polarity to inverter device the risk will be significantly less.

Welding of the sheet and frame is carried out with thin electrodes with a diameter of 2 or 2.5 mm. Never use electrodes with a diameter of 4 or 5 mm. Welding is carried out in one direction - gradually pressing the sheet to the frame. The length of the welding seam should be no more than 1.5-2 cm. In this case, the distance between the seams should be 5-6 cm. When welding a sheet and a pipe, welding is done on both sides of the pipe in a checkerboard pattern.

Familiarize yourself in more detail with the procedure for carrying out work and working on separate elements You can type in a search engine - how to make an iron door with your own hands.

Making a metal door with your own hands - video

Making a metal door with your own hands is quite possible if you approach this process correctly. The front door is one of the most important elements apartments. It protects the house from unauthorized entry by intruders, so this design should be as strong and reliable as possible. Metal ones are in particular demand input products, however, their cost is quite high. If you want to get a door for a minimum cost Money, or you need a design of non-standard sizes, then you can make it yourself.

Why you may need to weld doors yourself

Gone are the days when you could leave your house open and not worry about all your valuables going missing. Even when you are in an apartment, you cannot be sure that robbers will not break into an unlocked door. Therefore, more and more people are replacing thin wooden panels with armored metal structures.

On construction markets We offer a huge range of steel entrance doors. They all have an attractive appearance and are positioned by sellers as reliable, impenetrable structures. However, often after the purchase it turns out that the iron “armored” door you purchased is opened with an ordinary hairpin or kicked out. This drawback is typical for Chinese models.

When you make a metal door yourself, you can be confident in its quality, practicality and safety.

High-quality imported and domestic products, the reservation of which truly meets all standards, have a high cost.

If you want to become the owner of a durable metal door, then make it yourself. Making such a design yourself is not as difficult as it might seem, and you will spend several times less than you would pay for a similar design in a store.

Manufacturing durable doors at home requires a fairly large list of tools and materials. Most of them can be purchased at a hardware store, but some will have to be ordered from the factory.

Tools and materials that will be needed to make the door:

Two-millimeter steel sheet;
Several meters of profile pipe;
Two door hinges;
Door fittings (handle, lock and peephole);
Anchor bolts and mounting foam;
Drill and grinder;
Welding machine;
Insulation material;
Plywood or boards;
Materials for finishing the finished structure.

We have provided you with a universal list of tools. Depending on the purpose of the product and its design, some materials may be added, for example, forged elements.

How to make a drawing of a metal door with your own hands

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of the door, it is necessary to take measurements of the doorway. It is also important to carefully inspect the walls adjacent to the area where the door will be installed. They must be made of concrete or brick, since metal structure too heavy for plasterboard base.

Before you start making a metal door, you first need to prepare its detailed drawing

After all the measurements have been taken, it is necessary to make drawings of the future door. The diagram must match the actual dimensions to scale. In your drawing, show the installation location of the lock, stiffeners and door handle.

In order for a homemade door to look no worse than a purchased one, you need to carefully consider every nuance before making it. You can also add designs decorative elements, for example, decorate with glass or forged patterns.

The drawing will help you see all the shortcomings of the circuit and understand in time whether it is necessary to add stiffeners or whether it is better to leave everything as is. Also, based on a well-drawn plan, it will be easier to weld the door correctly.

How to weld a door from a profile pipe: making a door frame

Before making a door, it is necessary to properly prepare the doorway. How flat this part of the apartment will be determines how tightly it will fit. steel structure to the walls.

The doorway must be carefully puttied, plastered and adjusted in size to the door frame. You can make sure that the doorway is processed correctly using a level.

To make a door frame you can use profile pipes

When the doorway is prepared and its dimensions match the dimensions of the door structure in the drawing, you can proceed to assembling the frame. This is what they do first, since it will be easier to make a canvas based on the size of this element.

The material for creating the door frame can be thick profile pipes. With their help, it is possible to weld the most durable structure.

Making a door frame:

First of all, you need to measure the parameters of the already prepared doorway and cut the profiles according to these dimensions. Please note that the finished door frame should be approximately 1.5 cm smaller than the doorway. In this case, installing the door designs will pass as smooth as possible.
Next, you need to lightly weld the frame elements to each other. This is necessary so that in case of an error, you can easily redo your work.
Now you need to re-measure the iron frame. The distance is measured from corner to corner diagonally, as well as vertically and horizontally.
If the frame is perfectly flat, then the final welding of the elements is carried out. Welding areas are polished with a special machine.
On last stage it is necessary to drill holes for the anchor bolts and weld the hinges. The welding areas of the loop and profile are cleaned with a grinding machine.

The design of the door frame cannot be called complex. If you have minimal welding skills, then you can handle this stage of creating a door without special labor. However, if this is your first time holding a welding machine in your hands, we advise you to first practice on pieces of metal corner.

Making an iron door leaf with your own hands

After the assembly of the door frame is completed, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the door frame, and then to welding sheet metal onto it. For these purposes, you can use a metal corner and a two-millimeter steel sheet.

Before you start making an iron door, you need to properly prepare the tools for the job.

How to make a door leaf with your own hands:

The metal corner is cut into pieces of the required size. To do this, you need to take measurements from the inside of the box. The door leaf should be 5 mm smaller than the frame on all sides.
The frame elements are welded. Diagonals are checked.
A stiffening rib is welded vertically in the center of the frame. It is also necessary to weld the horizontal profiles; one half will need 2 metal ribs.
Now you can make the markup steel sheet. It should be 1 cm larger than the door frame on the lock side, top and bottom, and at the point of attachment to the hinges, an overlap of 0.5 cm should be left. The cut steel sheets are welded to the frame.
Welding areas must be cleaned using a grinding machine.
Drill a hole and holes for the lock and install it on the door. Don't forget to make a hole for the door peephole.
Weld the door hinges to the frame and door leaf.
Insulation is placed inside the door structure between the stiffening ribs.
We decorate the inside of the door with a sheet of plywood, which can then be covered with veneer or wallpaper.
The metal side of the door needs to be primed and then painted or covered with leatherette.

If you wish, you can make a glass insert in the door leaf or decorate it with elements of artistic forging.

The resulting homemade door has all the characteristics of its purchased counterparts. However, it will cost you much less than a finished design and may even be of better quality than many factory-made options.

How to properly weld an iron door with your own hands (video)

Making a metal door with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Even if this is your first time holding a welding machine in your hands, with a little practice you can create a pretty decent product.