Gooseberry varieties with photos and descriptions. Which gooseberry to choose - characteristics of varieties Shaggy gooseberry

The history of the many names of gooseberries and the benefits of eating them

The existence of gooseberries, grown in abundance in Old Russian monastic and princely gardens, is known from the first manuscripts. It undoubtedly appeared before the 11th century - it takes more than one decade to make the berry crop so popular.

Each nation gave the inhospitable thorny bush with sweet and sour berries its own special name. “Bersen-berry” was collected by ancient Russian maidens, cursing the gooseberry thorns. “Ber” is an Indo-European root with the meaning “bear”, and the berries ripening in the shadow of the thorny claws were securely hidden for the time being. The second name for gooseberries is “kryzh” (cross), the Russian equivalent of the German “crown of thorns”.

Gooseberry jam in Russia is still called “royal” or “emerald”, fueling the legend about the cook of Catherine the Great, who invented the recipe for an incomparable delicacy. Passion to culinary experiments, a roof and an ordinary pot allowed the cook to create a new Russian masterpiece - jam, which was admired by poets for more than one century. The fastidious queen was so captivated by the taste of the new invention that she graciously presented the talented cook with an emerald ring from the royal hand. Smaragd turned out to be so similar in color to the translucent fruits that if it had fallen into the notorious green-glazed pot, it would have been difficult to find it.

The turn of the 20th and 11th centuries turned out to be fatal for gooseberry bushes: most of them died from powdery mildew imported from America. Rare preserved specimens became the progenitors of almost all modern varieties. Since then, another name for gooseberries has stuck in metaphor-loving Russia: “northern grapes.” There are two reasons for this name - the high calorie content of gooseberries, second only to real grapes in this indicator, and the fact that high-quality wines are still made from the sour berry.

The British contrast the proud old Russian names for gooseberries with the simple “goose berry”. Not too concerned about its royal past, they do not make “royal preserves”, but a good sweet and sour sauce for fried poultry. The Germans, showing more interest in Lorelei and other fairy-tale evil spirits, used the simple name “prickly berry.” Their sun-worn neighbors, the Italians, complicated the definition of the berry to “stubbly”, and the French shortened it to the affectionate “fatty”. In Europe, gooseberries have never been as popular as in Russia.

No matter what the tight malachite berries of the thorny bush are called, their health benefits are undeniable. The pectins it contains remove oxalates and toxins, normalize stomach functions and improve immunity. It contains more iron than cherries, raspberries, plums and even apples. Carotene, vitamin P and ascorbic acid make it a powerful antioxidant that promotes the removal of radioactive substances. Succinic acid, which is part of the stellar vitamin composition of berries, preserves the elasticity of blood vessels. In terms of the abundance of vitamins, gooseberries are second only to their closest relative, black currants, and in terms of sugar content, they are second only to grapes. But this does not prevent gooseberries from remaining a great dessert. Original in taste, indispensable for health.

One of the most favorite shrubs among gardeners is the gooseberry. To grow a heat-loving plant, sunny color and short-lived life may not be enough. summer period, therefore, the choice of variety must be given Special attention.

Many centuries have passed since the first gooseberry appeared in Russia. Over time, the diversity of its species has increased and surprises with its perfection and unpretentiousness.

Each variety has a special taste, the size and color of the berries, the shape of the bush, the presence of thorns and their size. For the right choice plants suitable for the conditions of your garden, you need to navigate their varieties.

Classification

The varieties bred by breeders are divided into three groups depending on their origin:

• European. This group includes varieties with large fruits and excellent taste. Unfortunately, such gooseberries are difficult to propagate and are not resistant to infections.
• American. This includes varieties with small fruits and low taste characteristics. They are not susceptible to fungal diseases and are easily propagated by layering and cuttings.
• Hybrid American-European. The group included the most used varieties with optimal characteristics. Gooseberries are distinguished by their large fruit size and excellent taste. It is characterized by high fertility and relative resistance to a disease called powdery mildew.

Not every one of them is grown well in central Russia, so in order to choose one of the varieties, you should study the appropriate group thoroughly.

How to choose the best variety

The Moscow region has a special climate. The winter in this region is quite long, and the summer cannot please necessary warmth. Therefore, gardeners in the region need to carefully select suitable gooseberry varieties for the Moscow region.
For planting in such a climate, subspecies are suitable that have the necessary frost resistance and adaptation to weather conditions, easily tolerate strong winds and have strong roots.

The best gooseberry varieties for the Moscow region belong to the American-European hybrid class. These include: kolobok, Russian, spring, malachite, Russian yellow and other shrubs that are not afraid of frost.

Gooseberries: the best varieties for the Moscow region and their characteristics

The market is quite saturated various types gooseberries, which have a number of their own characteristics. Choosing for your site suitable variety, it is necessary to take into account the region and region, since each of them has its own needs in climate, soil saturation and temperature conditions.

Kolobok

Gooseberry bun is characterized by high yield and ripening time (end of July). One bush will allow you to collect up to twelve kg. The fruit is round-oval, dark red, weighs up to 5 g, and has a wonderful taste. Bushes small sizes, spreading, with sparse spines.

Russian

Russian gooseberry is a frost-resistant variety that produces a good harvest. During the season you can collect from four to ten kilograms of berries. The fruits are large (three to six grams), dark red with a coating of wax. The pulp has a special aroma and a subtle sour-sweet taste. Bushes with medium-sized thorns, tall, not spreading.

Russian yellow

Russian yellow gooseberries received the most flattering reviews from gardeners for their frost resistance, good yields and immunity to fungal diseases. It is considered one of the most common and most suitable for breeding in the Moscow region.

It has excellent taste, the fruits are shaped like an oval and have an amber-yellow coloring, they are quite large - they grow up to five to seven grams. Yellow Russian gooseberries grow in small bushes, so they can be placed not very far from each other.

Amber

Amber gooseberry is a representative of early varieties. Large, bright yellow-orange berries have a sweet and sour taste. delicate taste. The shrub grows up to 1.5 meters in height, has single spines and produces a good harvest. It is distinguished by good winter hardiness and disease resistance.

Spring

Ripens in mid-June, is characterized by good winter tolerance and resistance to fungal diseases. Gooseberry variety Rodnik has weighty berries (up to 5.5 g), roundish-oval, yellow-green, with red veins and a coating of wax. It reaches up to 1.5 m in height, with thickened straight shoots with single spines. From one bush you can harvest up to 5 kg of crop.

Anniversary

Ripens at the end of June, winter-hardy, adapts well to thaws. A vigorous and compact gooseberry of the Yubileiny variety with thin thorns and distinguished by its numerous ovaries.

It reaches one and a half meters in height and is resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. Bright yellow berries are round or oval in shape, weighing up to four grams.

Senator (Consul)

Gooseberries are known for their productivity (up to five kilograms per bush) and excellent winter hardiness. Not afraid of spring frosts. This variety tolerates heat and drought remarkably well. Not susceptible to infections.

The shrub is vigorous, small in size, and has an average number of thorns. The berries are dark red, grow from 2.5 to 6.3 g and have a sweet and sour taste.

Captivator

The gooseberry, bred by American breeders, is distinguished by the complete absence of thorns and late ripening of the berries, but has a very high yield. The Captivator variety has a brown-pink color and a sweetish-sour taste; the berries weigh from four to six grams. The shrub is quite large and resistant to powdery mildew.

Malachite

This variety is distinguished by an average ripening period (mid-summer) and good resistance to winter temperature changes. Not susceptible to powdery mildew virus. The berries are large (from 5 to 7 grams), slightly pear-shaped, bright green with a hint of malachite and covered with a layer of wax. Malachite can produce three to four kilograms of harvest per season.

Grushenka

Gooseberries got their name because of the pear-shaped fruits, which grow to medium size, purple color and pleasant sour-sweet taste. The bushes are frost-resistant, with early flowering, which is not afraid of spring frosts.

Grushenka is also distinguished by its complete absence of thorns, resistance to diseases and a good level of productivity.

Result:

Such a wealth and variety of gooseberry varieties allows you to choose a seedling in accordance with the climate, weather conditions and soil fertility. Each summer resident can easily select the type that best suits his taste of berries, his preferences for climate and productivity. When the choice is made, you can proceed to the next step; you can find out how to plant gooseberries in the spring and care for them in this article.

A little history about gooseberries.

In Rus' gooseberry has been well known for a very long time. Since the 11th century, it has been grown in monasteries. But then this berry was called agrus. Jams, jelly, and wine were made from it. From the 12th year it was grown in large quantities in the royal gardens. Entire plantations were dedicated to the cultivation of gooseberries. During the reign of Catherine the Great gooseberry began to be considered the royal berry. The Empress was very fond of gooseberry jam, made according to a special recipe.

But in other countries, gooseberries became known much later. In Europe, this shrub began to be grown in the 16th century, and only two hundred years later in North America. So we can safely say that gooseberry- Russian berry.

As soon as they don't call gooseberry: In Russia - royal berry, northern grape; in England - “goose berry”, apparently because gooseberries have been used to make sauce for roast goose since ancient times; in Germany - “prickly berry”, its thorns on the branches are very prickly, in Italy - “bristly grapes”. They say that the name “gooseberry” comes from the ancient word “kryzh” or cross. In the old days there was another name for gooseberries: bersen. Apparently this is where the name Bersenevskaya Embankment and Bersenevsky Lane in Moscow came from. Once upon a time, in their place, there were large gooseberry plantations.

Useful properties of gooseberries.

In addition to the fact that gooseberries are simply a tasty berry, they are also very beneficial for our body. Gooseberries are simply a storehouse of all kinds of vitamins and minerals.

Gooseberries contain:

• Vitamins: A, B, C, E, Vitamin PP, Beta-carotene
• Minerals: calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, phosphorus, iron, iodine, copper, fluorine, molybdenum, nickel.
• Up to 15% sugar
• Organic acids: citric, malic, folic

Gooseberries are good for everyone. Gooseberries normalize the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract; it is used for diarrhea, constipation, pain and cramping in the stomach. Gooseberries are taken as a choleretic and diuretic. Gooseberries are also useful after serious illnesses.

Gooseberries have several advantages:

• Unpretentiousness
• Endurance
• Precociousness
• Productivity
• Durability

Gooseberries can bear fruit for up to 40 years. Although the first 15 are the most productive.

Growing gooseberry in almost all regions, even in the North-West. The gooseberry crown can withstand frosts up to 40 degrees. But some varieties are still less frost-resistant, and young branches of bushes can freeze at temperatures below 33 degrees below zero to the level of snow cover.

Winter thaws followed by frosts without snow are also unfavorable for it. In such conditions, gooseberry roots may freeze at temperatures below 3-5 degrees, although usually root system Can withstand temperatures down to minus 20.

Therefore, sometimes, in order to protect the gooseberry root system during snowless winters, gooseberries are mulched in the fall.

What doesn't gooseberries like?

Doesn't like gooseberries overmoistening of the soil, stagnant water, highly acidic soils. Prefers light, but tolerates slight shading.

Gooseberries do not like being next to currants. But at the same time he puts up with it. However, it is correct to plant gooseberries at a distance of at least 1.5-2 meters from these plants.

Gooseberries in cooking.

Gooseberries make wonderful wine. They can also be made from gooseberries delicious jam, compote You can pickle gooseberries or make berry vinegar from them.

You can find one of the recipes for gooseberry compote on my website:

Common gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa), either European or rejected - this type is a representative of the currant genus of the gooseberry family. The birthplace of this plant is considered Western Europe and North Africa. Under natural conditions, it is still found in Southern and Central Europe, Central Asia, the Caucasus and North America. J. Ruel was the first to describe gooseberries in 1536 in the book “De natura stirpium”. About the existence of gooseberries in European countries became known only in the 16th century, while in the 17th century in England its popularity increased sharply, as a result, intensive work by breeders began to develop new varieties of this crop. At first, only a few varieties of gooseberries were obtained, but by the 19th century there were already several hundred of them. Specialists from America also worked on gooseberries; they obtained a hybrid of this plant that is resistant to powdery mildew, which is considered the main enemy of this crop. Today, gooseberries are cultivated in almost every country. In Russia, such a plant is called “northern grapes.”

Gooseberry is not a very large shrub, the height of which does not exceed 1.2 m. The peeling bark is colored brownish-gray. The plant has spines of leaf origin. On the surface of young cylindrical shoots there are thin needles - these are thorns. The petiolate, dull leaf blades are short-haired, they have a heart-shaped-ovate or rounded shape and a length of about 60 mm. The leaves are three to five lobed, with blunt teeth along the edge. Axillary pale red or light green flowers open in May. The fruits are spherical or oval-shaped berries, reaching 1.2 cm in length (in some varieties the berries are about 4 cm long), their surface can be bare or there are coarse bristles on it, and there are clearly visible venations. They can be white, green, yellow or red in color and ripen from June to August. The fruits of this bush are very tasty and healthy; they contain metal salts, vitamins, organic acids and tannins. This plant is an early honey plant; it helps attract a large number of pollinating insects to the garden plot. Gooseberries are self-fertile, so if you wish, you can plant just 1 bush in the garden, and it will produce a harvest.

What time to plant

You can plant gooseberries in open ground in spring or autumn (from the last days of September to the second half of October). Experienced gardeners recommend planting such a crop in the autumn, since before frost the seedlings take root well and develop a fairly powerful root system.

Before you begin directly planting gooseberries, you need to find the most suitable site for this, which would comply with all the rules of agricultural technology for this crop. It should be taken into account that the root system of such a shrub is long, and therefore lowlands are not suitable for planting it, since in such an area there is a high probability of developing a fungal disease. A well-lit place located on a flat area or on a hill is suitable for planting, which should have reliable protection from cold winds blowing from the east and north. The soil should be slightly acidic or neutral, with a pH of about 6. Sandy, loamy, sandy loam and clayey soil is well suited for growing such a crop, and in the latter case the surface of the site will have to be loosened very often.

Weeding of this shrub complicated by the fact that it has sharp spines; therefore, in the first autumn weeks, it will be necessary to remove all root weeds (for example, wheatgrass) from the area allocated for planting gooseberries. Immediately before planting, the soil should be dug up, and try to remove all weed rhizomes. After this, the surface of the area is leveled with a rake, and all large lumps must be broken up. Preparation landing pit should be done 15–20 days before planting, which will allow the soil to settle well. The length, depth and width of the hole should be half a meter each. When digging a hole, the top nutrient layer of soil must be thrown in one direction, and the lower infertile layer in the other. The top layer of soil must be mixed with 50 grams of potassium sulfate, 10 kilograms of humus or rotted manure and 50 grams of superphosphate. If you add fertilizer when planting, you won’t need to feed the gooseberries for several years. If the soil is clayey, then landing hole you should add 1 bucket of river sand. During planting, a distance of 1–1.5 m should be maintained between seedlings, while the row spacing should be about 3 m.

Suitable for planting are one- to two-year-old seedlings that have a developed root system (the length of the roots should be about 0.25–0.3 m), as well as several powerful shoots. Before planting gooseberries, they need to be immersed in the solution for 24 hours. organic fertilizers(for half a bucket of water, 3-4 large spoons of sodium humate). The seedlings should be placed in the hole at a slight angle or straight, and after planting, their root collar should be buried several centimeters into the soil. The root system of the plant must be carefully straightened. The hole must be filled in gradually, while constantly compacting the soil. The seedling should be watered with 10 liters of water. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, its surface will need to be covered with a layer of mulch (humus or peat), its thickness should be 20–30 mm. If you mulch the area, this will significantly reduce the number of watering, weeding and loosening. The planted plant will need to be cut off all the shoots, the length of the remaining segments should be about 50 mm, and each of them should have 5 or 6 buds.

Gooseberry seedlings should be planted in open soil in the spring in the same way as in the fall. However, experts still recommend giving preference autumn planting, since plants planted in spring take root worse and have slower stem growth. After planting, the shrub will produce a full harvest only in the third or fourth year. Provide him proper care, and it will delight you with rich harvests of delicious berries for 10–15 years.

Planting and growing gooseberries is quite simple, especially if the gardener adheres to all the rules of agricultural technology for this crop. In early spring When the snow has not yet melted, the bushes need to be sprayed with boiling water using a spray bottle. This treatment is carried out for the purpose of prevention against various diseases and pests.

It is necessary to loosen the soil surface around the plants to a depth of 8 to 10 cm in May. To reduce the amount of loosening in the future, the area should be covered with a layer of mulch. If there is such a need, then at the same time the bush should be fed with a solution of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers or manure infusion.

Gooseberries react extremely negatively to insufficient moisture in the soil, especially during flowering (spring) and during the ripening period of berries (summer). Experts recommend using drip or subsoil irrigation, in which case the water will immediately reach the root system of the shrub (to a depth of 5–40 cm). During the entire growing season, the shrub will need to be watered 3–5 times in this way. Irrigation by sprinkling is not suitable for gooseberries, especially using cold water. If in the spring the soil around the bushes was covered with mulch, the amount of weeding and loosening will sharply decrease. However, if there is still a need to remove weeds or loosen the soil, then such procedures must be carried out, despite the sharp spines of the plant.

For bushes planted in rows, the hanging branches must be raised with guy ropes or nets, which should be stretched between the rows at a height of 0.25–0.3 m on both sides of the row.

Gooseberry care in autumn

In autumn, gooseberries will need to be prepared for wintering. In order for the bush to lay fruit buds for next year, it must not need nutrients, so it needs to be fed. Also, pruning is done in the autumn, because it is not recommended to do it in the spring.

Fertilizer

Such a shrub produces rich harvests for many years, and at the same time it needs nutrients that it takes from the soil. In this regard, it is recommended to feed gooseberries every year, using both organic and mineral fertilizers. In spring, under 1 bush you need to add 50 grams of superphosphate, 25 grams of potassium sulfate, ½ bucket of compost and 25 grams of ammonium sulfate. If the bush is very large and gives high yields, the specified amount of fertilizer must be increased by 2 times. Fertilizers are applied to the soil along the perimeter of the crown, since it is in this diameter that the root system of the bush is located. To incorporate fertilizers into the soil, it must be loosened. As soon as the plant fades, it needs to be fed with a solution of mullein (1:5), with 5 to 10 liters of nutrient solution taken per bush. Repeated feeding with mullein is carried out after 15–20 days.

Pruning gooseberries in spring

In early spring, before the buds swell, the gooseberries need to be pruned. To do this, you need to cut out all weak, disease-affected, unproductive, dried, injured and frost-damaged stems. It is also necessary to cut out all basal shoots, and the weakened tips of the branches need to be trimmed a little to healthy tissue. remember, that spring pruning can be carried out only before the start of sap flow. The fact is that sap flow in gooseberries begins very early, and you can be late with pruning. If you prune the plant while sap is flowing, this will lead to its weakening. In this regard, experienced gardeners advise pruning this crop only in the autumn.

Pruning gooseberries in autumn

Such a shrub needs regular pruning which should be carried out every year. Otherwise, already in the third year of the gooseberry’s life, its thickening is observed, which negatively affects the quality of the berries growing in the thicket. And if you thin out the bush in time, it will be easier to spray it against pests or diseases. The most valuable are the five to seven year old branches. At the same time, the branches of the first three orders, other branches and branches are considered low productive. That is why those branches that are more than 8–10 years old should be cut to the ground; their color is almost black. As a result of this, the bush will grow zero shoots, and after a while they will be able to replace the aging ones. If small, low-quality fruits begin to grow on the upper parts of the shoots, they need to be pruned. You should also cut out far-growing stems, as well as those that are located too low. Places of cuts, especially on thick stems (diameter more than 0.8 cm), must be treated with garden varnish, otherwise plant juice will begin to flow out of them.

Gooseberry diseases and their treatment

Powdery mildew (spheroteca) poses the greatest danger to gooseberries. This disease can leave a gardener without a harvest, and if the bush is not treated, it will die in a few years. The most intensive development of the spheroteca is observed in damp, warm weather. In the last weeks of spring or the first weeks of summer, the affected shrub develops a loose coating on the surface of the stems, leaf blades and berries white. After some time, this plaque becomes a crust Brown. The affected stems become distorted and dry out, the infected leaf blades curl and stop growing, and they become brittle. Affected fruits are unable to ripen, cracks appear on their surface and they fall off. To cure the affected plant, before it blooms, it is necessary to spray it with a solution of the drug XOM containing copper (40 grams of the substance per 1 bucket of water). You can also treat the bush before it blooms and after flowering with Topaz (follow the instructions on the package). Most often, this disease affects the following varieties: Zolotoy Ogonek, Russian, Date, Prune and Triumphal. There are also varieties that are highly resistant to this foreign disease (its homeland is America): Senator, Houghton, Grushenka, African, Finets, etc. Moreover, most of these varieties resistant to the sphere library were the result of the work of breeders from America.

Other diseases

In some cases, such a shrub may be affected by anthracnose, mosaic, white spot or goblet rust. If the bush is affected by mosaic, then it needs to be dug up and destroyed as soon as possible, the fact is that this viral disease is incurable. To treat shrubs affected by spotting, anthracnose and rust, use copper sulfate, Nitrafen or Bordeaux mixture. In this case, the plant is treated in 2 doses: the first spraying is carried out in early spring before the buds open, and the second - 1.5 weeks after the end of fruit harvesting. For preventive purposes at the beginning spring period the area where gooseberries grow needs to be cleared of fallen leaves, because they may contain pathogenic microorganisms, and weeds must also be removed in a timely manner.

Gooseberry pests and their control

In some cases, pests may settle on the bush, with the gooseberry moth and shoot aphid. Before the gooseberries bloom, a moth emerges from the ground. She lays eggs in the flowers of the plant. When flowering comes to an end, rich green caterpillars emerge from the eggs, they gnaw at the berries and eat the seeds. If an aphid settles on a bush, the leaf plates will begin to curl, the stems will thin out and become crooked, their growth will stop, and unripe fruits will also shrink and fall off. To get rid of these pests, the bush needs to be sprayed with Fufanon or Actellik. However, as you know, it is easier to prevent pests from infesting a bush than to get rid of them later. Therefore, the following preventive measures should be carried out regularly:

1. After all the snow has melted, the surface of the soil under the plants must be covered with very dense material (for example, roofing felt), while its edges are sprinkled with soil. As a result, moths will not be able to get out of the ground. When the bush fades, this shelter must be removed.
2. In autumn, the bush needs to be hilled to a height of ten centimeters.
3. It is necessary to systematically collect and destroy fruits that contain caterpillars.
4. Faded bushes should be treated with Lepidocide or Bicol.

Gooseberry varieties with photos and descriptions

All gooseberry varieties are divided into American-European (hybrid) and European. Compared to hybrid varieties European ones have a longer productivity period and larger berries. But at the same time, European varieties are more susceptible to various diseases and pests. Also, all varieties are conventionally divided by size, color and shape of the fruit, by ripening time, by yield, and also by the presence or absence of thorns. The best varieties:

1. African. This winter-hardy variety does not have a very large number of thorns. Medium size The berries are dark purple in color and have a waxy coating on the surface. The pulp is sweet and sour with a currant flavor. These fruits are well suited for making jelly.
2. Black Negus. The fruits are black and covered with a glossy skin. This frost-resistant mid-season variety, which is strongly thorny, was created by Michurin, but to this day it is very popular among gardeners in mid-latitudes. The not very large fruits do not crack and have a sweet and sour taste. Jam, wine, preserves and compotes are made from them.
3. Lights of Krasnodar. This thornless variety is suitable for growing in any climatic conditions. The fruits are large red.
4. Russian yellow. This variety is resistant to fungal diseases and has a small number of thorns, which are mainly located in the lower part of the stems. The fruits are large, yellow, oval-shaped and remain on the bush for a long time.
5. White triumph. This variety is different rapid growth and productivity. The greenish fruits acquire a slight yellowish tint when ripe. They are sweetish and remain on the bush for a long time.
6. Date fruit. This variety is susceptible to spheroteca disease (powdery mildew). However, it is still one of the most popular varieties because it is high-yielding, and its fragrant fruits are distinguished by high taste. Green fruits have a purple-crimson blush.

There are also varieties:

• with sweet fruits - Eaglet, Hinnomaki Gelb, Northern Captain, Spring, African, Kolobok;
• with sweet and sour fruits - Malachite, Plum, Russian, Donetsk large-fruited;
• with fragrant fruits - White Triumph, Defender, Flamingo, Hinnomaki Strain, African;
• without thorns - Eaglet, Tender, Serenade, Pax;
• With big amount thorns - Defender, Yubileiny, Malachite, Donetsk large-fruited;
• with rare thorns - Chernomor, Kolobok, Captivator;
• with thorns growing on the lower part of the stems - Date, Russian, Smena;
• late-ripening and mid-late - Malachite, Sadko, Smena, Serenada, Chernomor;
• early ripening - Orlyonok, Yarovoy, Salyut, Rodnik;
• mid-early - Flamingo, Plum, Laskovy;
• mid-season - Kolobok, Pax, Krasnoslavyansky, Prune.

Also, the Yoshta hybrid, created by crossing black currants and gooseberries, is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners.