A toilet is something without which it is impossible to imagine a full-fledged summer cottage. The most simple option The country toilet is a system based on a cesspool. If desired, you can make such a toilet yourself. You just need to familiarize yourself with what is offered step by step guide and do everything according to the instructions.
Before you begin any operations, you should collect the materials and tools necessary for arranging an individual toilet.
Kit for building a country toilet
- The beam is 100 mm wide and 50 mm thick. If this material is not available, you can use an edged board.
- Moisture-proofing material. Roofing felt is traditionally used.
- Beam 300 cm long, section 50x50 mm.
- Floorboard 3000x100x25 mm.
- Sheets of coniferous lining.
- Nails and screws.
- Door with accompanying elements and fittings.
- Electric drill.
- Hammer.
- Jigsaw or hacksaw.
- Shovel.
- Roofing material. Usually ordinary slate is used. If desired, you can make the roof at your discretion.
The amount of materials is selected individually in accordance with the dimensions of the future structure. Once everything you need has been purchased and collected in one place, you can start choosing suitable place for placing a toilet.
When choosing a place to place such a delicate structure, you need to consider a number of important factors. First of all, decide whether you will make a toilet with a cesspool or whether another design is more suitable for you. At this stage, focus on the level of groundwater flow. If they pass at a depth below 250 cm, you can safely make a toilet with cesspool. If groundwater flows above the 250 cm mark, it is better to abandon the design with a cesspool.
It is important to find a middle ground here - the toilet, after all, is an intimate place, but building it in some hard-to-reach area, which you might not be able to reach if something happens, is also not recommended.
If you are not going to turn an ordinary toilet into a work of landscape art, it is best to do it in some secluded corner, at a relatively short distance from the house.
When choosing a suitable location, you need to focus on existing sanitary standards . Especially important they have in the case of constructing a toilet with a cesspool. If the pit you create is not airtight, waste products will simply seep into the groundwater, which can ruin the plantings on the site. And drinking such water in the future will be very dangerous.
A toilet with a cesspool must be located at a distance of at least 12-14 m from a residential building. A “dry” toilet should be built at a distance of 4-5 m or more.
Don't forget about your neighbors. Minimum permissible distance between the toilet and the border of the neighboring plot is 1.5-2 m. A closer location is unlikely to please the owners of the neighboring dacha.
It is important that the toilet is located at the maximum possible distance from wells and wells. A distance of 20-30 m is considered optimal.
A country toilet can easily become a source of characteristic unpleasant odors, so when choosing a place to install it, you need to pay attention to such a parameter as the wind rose, which is specific to your area. Of course, the toilet needs to be cleaned regularly.
Usually a square hole is made with sides of 100 cm and a depth of about 2 m. Before you start digging a cesspool, clearly mark its limits.
The walls and bottom of the structure are subject to reinforcement. To solve this problem you can use concrete rings or brick, rubble stone, boards, etc. are also used. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the cesspool and thoroughly compacted. Brickwork is laid on crushed stone or a concrete screed is made.
The second stage is the arrangement of a cesspool. The internal walls of the cesspool are subject to mandatory moisture insulation. This treatment will prevent the penetration of waste from the pit into groundwater. To waterproof the walls, it is enough to plaster or caulk them.
The third stage is preparing the foundation for the toilet house. Traditionally, such houses are installed on column-type foundations. The corners of the building should rest on brick pillars, covered with roofing felt as a waterproofing material.
The base of the house is assembled from wooden beams. They must first be primed and painted. Such treatment will prevent premature rotting of the wood. Assemble the frame and install it on a brick base. Place 4 racks on the frame. Be sure to make sure that they are placed vertically. Use bolts to obtain a secure fit. Additionally strengthen the structure with metal plates. Install roof beams and door racks.
The roof must have slight slope. To ensure this, make the front pillars slightly longer than the rear ones. Above the sump, arrange a frame of wooden blocks for the future seat. The roof must be covered with roofing felt and the selected finishing material. Slate is most often used.
Nail vertical bars or boards to the frame for clapboard, siding or other material of your choice. The boards are fastened at a distance of 150 mm from each other. seating base and inner surface The walls also need to be covered with clapboard or other desired material.
Knock down the door, fasten the hinges in the appropriate places and hang the canvas. If desired, install fittings and additional elements in the form of a threshold, platbands, etc.
To make the restroom convenient to use at any time of the day, electricity must be supplied to it. Choose the lamp at your discretion.
You also need to cut a window of the desired shape above the door. Through it the room will be illuminated daytime.
To prevent the country toilet from becoming a source of unpleasant odors that poison life, pay due attention to the arrangement of the ventilation system.
Buy a plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and secure it to the back wall of the house using clamps. One end of such a pipe should be buried approximately 100 mm into the cesspool, and the other should be brought out. To do this, you need to first prepare suitable holes in the seating podium and roof. Select the length of the pipe so that it rises above the roof by about 20 cm. Putty the places where the pipe passes through the ceilings. A special deflector nozzle is installed on the ventilation head.
This traditional version country toilet with a cesspool. If you wish, you can opt for another design, for example, a backlash closet or a powder closet.
Such a system is a kind of transitional link between a structure with a pit and a full-fledged hygienic septic tank. The design is based on sealed pit. In the future, only special sewage disposal equipment will be able to clean such a cesspool. Consider whether there are companies in your area that specialize in providing similar services.
If there are problems with cleaning, it is better to immediately abandon the installation of such a toilet.
The design works to the limit simple principle. The toilet itself is located next to the house. The toilet is placed indoors, and the cesspool is placed outside.
Dig a hole at least 100 cm deep. Fill the walls and bottom of the pit concrete mortar. After the solution on the walls has set, they will additionally need to be treated with a special waterproofing mastic. Waterproofing also needs to be installed around the perimeter of the pit. It is best to make it from clay. A layer of clay about 50 cm thick will be enough. Place a hatch on top of the cesspool. It will be closed with lids made of cast iron and wood. Place insulation between the covers; mineral wool will do.
It is laid through the wall of the house sewage pipe, through which waste will flow from the toilet to the septic tank. The toilet requires quality organization forced ventilation. You can buy a special fan or create natural ventilation, the effect of which is based on temperature differences.
Finally, all that remains is to install the toilet, connect it to the cesspool, and the toilet will be ready for use. This system differs from an ordinary city toilet only in that the wastewater is not discharged into the sewer, but into an equipped cesspool.
Such a toilet does not require a cesspool. Instead, a special container is used, installed under the toilet seat. When filled to a certain level, the container is simply removed and cleaned.
A container with sawdust, hay or peat should be placed in the toilet room. These materials will need to be poured into the toilet bowl after each trip to the toilet to reduce the intensity of unpleasant odors.
Powder closets are extremely simple and easy to use. For full use of the restroom, it must have high-quality ventilation.
If desired, after 2-3 years it will be possible to “move” by arranging a clean container in a new location and filling the old cesspool with earth. It will be possible to “move” for the fourth time to the very first place. Over the years, the waste will completely rot.
Wood is a wonderful material with many benefits, but it has one serious drawback— during its service, the material is somewhat deformed and changes in size. After some time, gaps will appear between the boards used to cover the walls of the country toilet. To disguise them, you can use a narrow strip. It is enough to simply stuff such slats over the cracks and the problem will be solved.
Thus, in independent arrangement There is nothing complicated about a country toilet. You can make either a simple structure based on a cesspool or a more modern toilet with advanced characteristics. The choice is yours!
Video - Do-it-yourself country toilet step by step
The toilet, of course, is far from the main room in the apartment. However, the bathroom must be equipped in such a way that it is as convenient and safe to use as possible. This applies, of course, to the wiring and connection of lamps in the toilet that must be done correctly.
The peculiarity of bathrooms is, first of all, that in most cases the rooms are small. In addition, toilets are usually completely absent daylight, because windows are almost never provided in bathrooms. Therefore, artificial lighting in such rooms, in any case, should be quite intense and powerful.
Which lamps to choose
Such devices are purchased depending on the design and layout of the bathroom itself. For example, lighting in a small toilet, long and narrow, is best arranged using some beautiful wall lamps. Using such equipment narrow room can be easily expanded visually. To do this, the lamps should be hung on both long walls higher.
For a restroom with low ceilings, regular flat lampshades are best suited. Lighting in the toilet large area can be organized using a variety of lamps. These can be small ceiling chandeliers, wall sconces, and even floor options similar devices.
When choosing lamps for a toilet, among other things, you should take into account the standards provided by SNiP. Otherwise, using the restroom will be inconvenient in the future. So, for example, according to the rules, normal lighting in a toilet per 1 m2 is 20 lux.
Wiring rules
According to SNiP standards, the cable in the toilet, as it is allowed, is only allowed to be laid in a hidden way. That is, the wires in such rooms are pulled in grooves. Exception in in this case are only wooden buildings. In the toilets of such houses, cables can be laid in hermetically sealed metal pipes.
It is not prohibited to install sockets in toilets. However, such elements are most often installed only in combined bathrooms. In such premises they are used for washing machines, hair dryers, etc. Sometimes lamps in the toilet are also connected to sockets. In any case, only waterproof structures (minimum IP 44) should be used in bathrooms.
Distribution boxes Usually they are not installed either in separate toilets or in combined bathrooms. In any case, it is better to move such an element outside the restroom.
Cable selection
Of course, the wires used for installation in the toilet, as in any other place in the apartment, must be fire-resistant and reliable. When choosing a cable for a restroom, you need to pay attention to:
its section;
material and number of cores;
certificate.
For obvious reasons, such products should be purchased exclusively from trusted manufacturers.
As for the material, in most cases, property owners today use copper wiring for their electrification. Aluminum is considered outdated and does not meet the requirements of organizing modern life.
Wiring to toilets, combined or separate, is three-wire. That is, the cable must have a ground wire.
If copper wires are installed everywhere in the rooms, then, of course, this type of cable should be used for the restroom. The aluminum option is not particularly suitable in this case. It is believed that it is best to use low-smoke cables VVGng 3x1.5 or VVGng-LS in bathrooms. In any case, the cross-section of the wire purchased for the toilet should not be less than 2.5 mm 2.
Location of devices: standards
In individual restrooms, lamps can be hung almost anywhere. When installing such devices in combined bathrooms, the following rules should be observed:
It is allowed to place lamps in the toilet, as well as sockets, no closer than 60 cm to sinks, bathtubs and showers;
It is also not permitted to place sockets or lighting right next to the floor to prevent them from getting wet due to leaks.
The wires from the restroom should be connected to a two-pole RCD. This method will allow you to immediately turn off the power to the bathroom in the future, if necessary.
How to wire a toilet
Perform the procedure for electrifying the restroom as follows:
make markings on the walls;
measure the required wire length;
buy the cable itself.
perform wall slitting according to the markings;
make sockets for sockets, if provided;
install switches.
How to make light in the toilet: wall strobing
IN brick houses Cables are usually pulled using fairly simple technology. It is not too difficult to ditch walls made of such material. After all, bricks are laid using cement mortar. This material is quite easy to use with a hammer and chisel.
The seam between the rows of bricks stretches in the vast majority of cases along the entire wall. So horizontal cable laying in such a house can be done in just a couple of hours. WITH vertical installation However, in this case you will have to tinker. After all, bricklaying is done with bandaging of seams. Therefore, in order to raise or lower the cable along the plane of the wall, you will have to use a grinder.
The same tool is usually used for gating concrete walls. In this case, horizontal knockout has to be done more carefully than in brickwork - using a building level.
Wire routing
After the grooves are laid in accordance with the chosen lighting design in the toilet, they begin to hollow out the sockets for the sockets. For this purpose, a hammer drill with a special attachment is usually used. Next, we begin to actually lay the wires. Pulling cables in grooves is allowed without any additional protection. But it is best to lay the wires in grooves along the pipe. In this case, in the future, if necessary, they can be easily replaced.
When laying a cable in a groove, you can fasten it, for example, with thin metal plates, cut yourself. Each such element is nailed into a groove in the middle. The cable is then pulled over the plate. Next, bend the ends of the metal strip over the laid wire. Using the same principle, you can also secure a pipe under the cable in the groove.
After the wiring to the toilet has been laid, the groove is sealed with alabaster or cement mortar. After waiting for the material to dry, the section of the wall above the cable is carefully sanded using sandpaper.
Connecting devices
After the wall has dried, you can begin to actually arrange the lighting in the toilet. When using only one lamp in the restroom, it is best to move the switch outside the restroom, for example, into the corridor.
As with sockets, a socket is pre-hollowed out for this element. Switches are installed according to the diagrams drawn on their rear panel. In cables, the ground wire usually has a sheath yellow color, "phase" - red, "zero" - blue. In accordance with this, the connection is made. When installing lighting in the toilet, sockets are installed using the same technology. That is, they connect the earth, phase and zero wires to the corresponding terminals of the product.
Smart connection
You don't have to use the light in the toilet too often. But many people simply forget to flip the switch after visiting the restroom. And this, of course, is very uneconomical. To avoid this, you can install not ordinary, but “smart” lighting in the toilet.
In this case, in addition to the lamp itself and the switch, a special device is installed in the restroom - a presence sensor to turn on the light. Such a device is installed in the toilet right at the entrance. Equipment of this type is connected directly to the wiring coming out of the wall and to the lamp according to the diagram provided by the manufacturer.
Instead of a presence sensor to turn on the light in front of the entrance to the restroom, you can also install a motion sensor. Such a device will also make living in the house much more comfortable. It differs from a presence sensor in that it does not “catch” various kinds of small movements. However, such a device will still be able to “notice” a person passing through a doorway in any case. At the same time, motion sensors are somewhat cheaper than presence sensors.
On some summer cottages there is a building located in the far corner and similar in design to a birdhouse, which is already clear. Due to numerous and long-term requests from relatives, I decided to make light in country toilet. The reason it hasn't been done yet is simple. Electricity in the village is much more expensive than in the city, and as sometimes happens when you come to the dacha after a month or six months, you find the lamps not turned off or not turned off. Therefore, I didn’t want to install light into the country toilet with an uncontrolled switch. Installing battery power is also irrational - someone won’t turn off the light anyway. The idea of installing a garden lamp in the toilet encountered difficulties in ensuring uniform illumination. The lamp diffusers are configured for lighting in the horizontal plane. And if you remove the light diffuser, then instead of uniform illumination there will be one bright spot from the narrow LED beam. For the sake of experiment, I tried to connect a furniture LED battery lamp with a solar-powered garden lamp. Of course, I modified the lamp circuit a little and... HURRAY! Assembled with your own hands homemade lamp lit up from the converter garden lantern.
How to make autonomous toilet lighting with your own hands
1. We buy a furniture lamp. The price of a set of 3 pieces is ~120 rubles. So the price of one is 40 rubles. In order for one lamp to work, you need to insert three AAA batteries into it. The price of batteries will exceed the cost of the lamp by 3 times! The lamp is made in a beautiful plastic case, but the most important thing is that you don’t have to bother making a diffuser or looking for diffuse lenses.
2. We are looking for a donor - a garden lantern powered by solar batteries, but with one feature, the storage battery must be in “AAA” format. This battery format will allow you to create a complete design. Scheme garden lamp shown in the figure.
AAA battery3.We are finalizing the furniture lamp. The lamp diagram is in the photograph. To complete the modification, you need to disassemble the lamp, remove the board with LEDs and solder the positive power wire directly to the power circuit of the LED block, bypassing the quenching resistor and switch.
4. Since the lamp housing will allow us to accommodate the entire solar lantern electronics circuit, we remove the converter board from the donor (remember the polarity of connecting the wires if there are no markings on the board), slightly modify the housing to pass wires from the LED block and the cable going to the switch and solar battery . The connection diagram of the lamp and lantern elements is shown in the photograph. Assembling a solar lantern circuit. I was able to fit all the electronics into the lamp housing. I consider this reasonable, since the lamp with electronics will be located in a room protected from precipitation and accessible for possible maintenance.
5. Four LEDs are a serious load for a limited battery capacity. With 100% probability, the battery will not provide lighting for the room until the morning, and in the event of inclement weather and shorter daylight hours, it may not be charged during the day. Therefore, to save battery life, I decided to install a switch. You can use the standard switch of a furniture lamp, but to do this you will need to go into a dark room and look for a lamp under the ceiling. The switch was used electric 220V and installed at front door. The switch switches the LED circuit. At night, the flashlight converter operates with the LEDs turned off, but consumes significantly less electricity, but during the day it recharges the battery whenever possible. Lamp with a computer cable for LAN type UTP with a switch and installed on a tree on the south side solar battery garden lantern. The length of the cable to the solar battery was 6 meters.
The lamp is installed
Often the first thing a person thinks about after purchasing a plot of land is: how to make a simple outdoor toilet in a dacha with your own hands and ready-made drawings will come in handy here, as well as detailed description all stages of construction, tips and nuances.
One of the most important and vital buildings in a country house or garden plot is the toilet. The need for a simple structure arises within a few hours of arrival. And even if the owners already have a bathroom in cozy house, street amenities will never be superfluous.
It’s easy to build a toilet in your summer cottage with your own hands
The simplicity of the design allows even a person without much construction experience to equip a toilet for their dacha with their own hands. And if you use your imagination, then a house for thinking about
will fit perfectly into the design of the site and, perhaps, even become its decoration.
What kind of toilet to build: types and features
Actually, there are only two options here: with or without a cesspool.
- A toilet with a cesspool is a simple structure, proven by experience and time, which consists of an equipped cesspool and a toilet house above it. As the pit is filled with sewage, it is cleaned out manually or a sewer truck is ordered.
And sometimes they simply move the house to another place. The old pit is buried, and after 6-7 years its contents will finally rot and you can put the toilet back again.
- A backlash closet is a type of outdoor toilet with a pit for sewage, but with the difference that it must be sealed. Such a toilet has to be built if it is located close to a house, a water source, or when the groundwater is high.
Diagram: how the backlash closet works
- A toilet without a cesspool or a powder closet is installed if the groundwater is very high or if the toilet is rarely used. In this case, the container for collecting sewage can be anything except a pit (bucket, barrel, plastic tank). The required volume determines the intensity of use of the bathroom.
After each trip to such a toilet, sewage is sprinkled with dry peat, sometimes sawdust or ash is used, so the house should have a box for “masking powder”. After filling, the container is removed manually and the contents are evacuated to compost pit. If the sewage has been sprinkled with peat, then after a while it becomes a wonderful fertilizer.
Toilet without a cesspool (powder closet)
Important! If groundwater lies below 2.5 meters, any type of toilet can be built, but if it is located higher, then a cesspool will have to be abandoned.
Where to build a toilet
For toilets with a cesspool, there are a number of sanitary and hygienic standards and restrictions, which determine their location on the site.
Minimum distances from the toilet to other objects:
- To water sources (wells, boreholes, lakes, rivers) – 25 m;
- To houses, cellars - 12 m;
- Before summer shower or baths - 8 m;
- To the nearest tree – 4 m, and to the bushes – 1 m;
- To fences - at least 1 m.
Scheme: correct location toilet relative to other buildings on the dacha plot
Important! When choosing a construction site, it is worth considering not only objects located on own plot, and also those located on the neighboring one.
So that summer evenings on the terrace are not spoiled by the amber, the place is chosen taking into account the wind rose. If the site is located on a slope, it is better to install the toilet at the lowest point.
Construction of a cesspool
After selecting and preparing the site, they begin to dig a cesspool. As a rule, she square shape, at least 2 meters deep.
There are two types of cesspool:
- Sealed. The bottom of such a pit is concreted, reinforced before pouring, and to prevent the reinforcement from sinking in the concrete, it is placed on pegs. The walls are also sealed, puttied with mortar or the seams covered with bitumen.
Sealed pit latrine
- Absorbing. It is better to dig such a hole down to the sand, then the liquid fraction of sewage will quickly sink into the ground. The bottom is covered with a layer of coarse crushed stone or pebbles.
Absorption cesspool design
There are several ways to strengthen the walls of a cesspool:
- Brickwork;
- Concrete structure;
- Ready-made reinforced concrete rings;
- Plastic tank.
The pit is covered from above, with beams, slate or concrete, leaving only the area under the toilet seat open, and they begin to assemble the toilet house.
Construction of a toilet house
The optimal dimensions of a country toilet are 1×1.5 m, height – 2.2-2.5 m. Otherwise, it will simply be inconvenient, especially for people with large figures. It is not necessary to make drawings of the toilet yourself, if not special requirements and ideas you can use ready-made ones.
First of all, the diagram is convenient in that it allows you to correctly calculate the amount of building materials and preliminary cost courtyard bathroom.
Construction of a toilet over a cesspool (proper placement diagram)
Frame base
It is recommended to move the toilet house 2/3 forward above the cesspool, thus providing access for cleaning behind the rear wall of the structure.
The stability of the building can be ensured by a shallow foundation. Between it and the frame, waterproofing is laid, 1-2 layers of roofing felt. But for light construction made of wood it is not at all necessary. It is enough to install the base on concrete blocks.
You can also put four supporting pillars. To do this, four holes with a depth of about 60 cm are dug in the corners of the future structure, up to 1 meter in soft soils, and they are lowered into them. asbestos pipes. The hole is filled one third with cement mortar. After this, a support beam is installed in the pipe, and the hole is completely filled with concrete.
Installing the toilet base on concrete blocks
Frame assembly
To build a frame, beams with a cross section of 50×50 or 80×80 mm will be sufficient; it is not advisable to take larger material.
- First, assemble a rectangular support with a jumper from which the front wall of the toilet seat will rise, and screw it to the foundation or support posts. A board is laid on top. The thickness of the floor board must be at least 3 cm.
Construction wooden frame for the toilet
- The frame of the front, rear and side walls is assembled from timber. In this case, the front wall should be at least 10 cm higher than the back wall, this will ensure required slope roofs.
- For greater structural strength, it is recommended to make diagonal jibs on the side and rear walls.
- On the front wall, be sure to make a reinforcement for the door of the appropriate size and make a hole for the window.
- The wall frames are fixed to the base metal corners, a harness is made on top and at the level of the toilet seat.
Strengthening the toilet frame with metal corners
- The next step will be assembling the frame of the toilet seat and covering it, if not provided alternative options, for example, a floor-mounted toilet.
Frame covering
Sheathing the frame wooden planks. The vertical arrangement allows you to significantly save material, and the horizontal one imitates a log house and looks more interesting. The boards are tightly fitted to each other and attached to the base. Instead of wood, corrugated sheets, slate or any other material that matches the construction budget are also used.
Toilet frame trim
Advice! All wooden elements It is advisable to treat the structures with a special antibacterial impregnation, which will protect the material from moisture and pests, and then cover it with varnish or paint
Roof
The roof should not protrude beyond the walls by more than 30 cm. Installation begins by securing parallel boards at a short distance. After this, the visor is sewn up from below, and boards are attached to the outside around the perimeter. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared base, usually roofing felt, after which the structure is covered with any roofing material(slate, metal profile, bitumen shingles).
For a toilet, erecting a simple flat roof is enough
Summer residents who are not satisfied with the standard house layout can look for drawings that are more interesting options, make it yourself or purchase ready-made toilet houses, they are assembled like a designer, and for convenience they are necessarily accompanied by instructions and all the accompanying drawings.
Exhaust ventilation
Exhaust ventilation in a country toilet is a pipe that removes odors from the cesspool. Its lower edge is inserted into the hole, and the upper edge should rise above the roof by at least 20 cm.
Ventilation of a country toilet
A plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters is suitable for arranging ventilation. It is attracted to the back wall from the inner or outside structures and fixed with iron clamps. To increase traction, a deflector attachment is installed on the head.
Installing a toilet door
Doors are installed using ordinary wooden, ready-made plastic or home-made ones, from the material with which the frame was sheathed. Hang the door on 2 hinges. In principle, the closing method can be any, traditionally it is a latch, latch or hook, outside and inside. It is better to avoid more sophisticated locking systems, for example, with latches, since their mechanism will be exposed to moisture and will quickly rust.
Two hinges are enough to install the door
Lighting
For more comfortable operation of amenities, it is better to take care of their lighting in advance. This could be a wall lantern that is battery powered. As an option, you can install electrical wiring and connect a small lighting fixture.
Lighting options for a country toilet
And to illuminate during the day inner space there will be a small window. It is usually cut out above the doors or at the top of the door, but there are actually more options, from figured windows on the walls to a transparent roof.
Advice! A cesspool will last longer if you don’t throw it in toilet paper and other hygiene or household supplies, so there must be a bucket in the toilet. If the size allows, it is convenient to install a regular washbasin with a hanging spout here, especially since the rowing pit is already ready.
Powder closet: construction features
The absence of a cesspool is the main difference in construction. But there are some differences in the design of the house. You will have to think about a way to remove the container in which the sewage is collected.
Scheme: powder closet device
The door is usually equipped on the back wall of the house or the front wall of the toilet seat. Inside the cabin there is a special box for peat (ash, sawdust). It’s also impossible to do without ventilation here, only the pipe is not lowered into the hole, but directly under the toilet seat.
