Do it yourself crawl into the underground. How to make a hidden hatch under the tiles with your own hands. How to choose material and type of construction

Almost all private houses have their own basement or cellar. If the entrance to it is in the floor, then you will need to make a floor hatch into the basement. How to make such a hatch largely depends on the structural features of the lift and its location. Creating a basement hatch with your own hands involves making drawings, selecting and purchasing materials from which the structure will be created. The basement hatch, first of all, must be completely safe and convenient to use.

Features of the hatch device

A basement has many benefits, including acting as storage space and allowing the ground floor floor to retain heat better. The main disadvantage is the high cost of creating a basement, so most home owners make an opening in the floor and install a floor hatch in the basement with their own hands.

To install a hatch, you need to think through all the stages of work.

The features of making an opening in the floor allow you to save a lot, but to successfully complete the project you need to think through all the details in advance:

Develop a detailed drawing.
The choice of installation location also has great importance. Furniture or other objects should not prevent the lid from opening freely.
Install optimal size. In this case, the internal opening should not be less than 75x75 cm.
Select materials that can make the structure strong enough, but not heavy, and also fit into the interior.
Choose best option for sealing and thermal insulation of the lid. An insulated hatch into the basement will not allow cold air to enter the house even in winter.

Often hatches are equipped with a lifting basement mechanism, which ensures smooth movement and allows you to fix the cover in one position. In addition, an electric drive can be installed on the hatch, which will not allow animals or small children to enter it.

What materials are basement hatches made from?

There are many materials available for making a hatch. Their choice largely depends on general interior home and flooring. At correct selection materials you can make a hidden entrance to basement, which will not violate general form premises.

In this video you will learn how to make a hatch:

Hatch to the basement made of wood

If the flooring consists of a wooden board, then it is recommended to use wood to disguise the entrance to the basement. In addition, with its help, the load on the entire structure will be significantly less. If the hole itself measures 80x80 cm, then the lid should be slightly smaller. This will ensure that the cover rests freely on the floor.

Important! It is also necessary to leave gaps of 4-5 mm between the floor and the lid. This will ensure free air circulation.

The manufacture of a wooden structure is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Nail 4 timber supports, on which the lid will then rest, to the rough flooring from the basement side.
Prepare wooden blanks 79 cm long made of wood for flooring and slats.
Cut a square 79x79 cm (should be 10 mm smaller than the hole itself).
Treat all wooden parts with drying oil or another substance that can protect the material from moisture and fungus.

The height of the hatch should be equal to the final and rough coating, which is achieved through multi-layering. This design is usually lightweight, so it can be attached to regular hinges.

Metal hatch

Making a metal structure is much more difficult, but it is more reliable and durable than the previous version. To make it you need:

Cut the lid from a sheet of steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm.
Weld the corners with inside steel around the entire perimeter.
Important! Using a corner, you can make stiffening ribs into which insulation can then be installed.
Clean all welds.
Place insulation, the size of which should not be larger than the corner.
Lay the steel sheet overlapping and bend the edges using a mallet, secure to the corners with self-tapping screws.

Next you need to install the frame. To do this, you need to cut the corners according to the dimensions of the hatch opening. The corners need to be welded together, and then, using anchors, attached to concrete base. A small strip of insulation needs to be secured along the protruding edges of the frame. At the very end, secure the lid.

This hatch is much more practical

Hatch for tiles

If you are installing a hatch under the tiles, you will need to initially create the necessary markings. The hatch into the subfloor itself does not fit on the tile, but is created in conjunction with it, that is, you will need to make metal carcass, which will fall below the level of the floor surface, and install the material itself on it.

The creation of the hatch follows the standard plan, with one exception: the lock must be hidden and have no protruding elements.

Briefly, the process looks like this: a metal base is created, tiles are laid on it, taking into account the coincidence of the floor elements adjacent to the hatch.

Most often, accurate calculations are used before work. This will help avoid inconsistencies and shortcomings.

Sealing a basement hatch

The hatch must be built hermetically, but not interfere with full movement. If the entire floor in the room consists of a certain type of coating that cannot be damaged, for example, laminate, then floor hatches are equipped with additional sealing that does not interfere with either the coating or the structure itself.

Sealants are selected depending on their compatibility with the materials used in the construction work.

Electric drive

An electric drive is installed on the hatch to control the closing and opening of the basement. There are many arrangement options, but even the most simplified one will require additional markings according to the dimensions of the hatch. This is necessary for a full move.

It is important to remember that the rods must be installed correctly. The electric drive itself will be located on the hatch cover.

Creating a retractable mechanism

The retractable mechanism is often used when arranging floor hatches. To create the mechanism you will need small space under the floor, as well as a list of materials:

steel sheet 2 pcs. thickness 5 mm;
set of metal rollers;
steel rods;
compact electric motors – 2 pcs.;
current source and electrical cable;
switch with three positions.

The retractable mechanism is easy to use, but its creation and arrangement should be carried out by a person with experience in such work.

Each type of hatch has its own nuances

Types of hinges for manhole cover

Hinges for the hatch to the basement - important element, which must be selected with special care. When installing the entrance to the basement, the following types of loops are used:

Invoices. They are attached with one side to the hatch cover, and the other to the floor or wall. The cost of hinges can vary significantly depending on the degree of reliability and decor. The most expensive are forged hinges.
Hidden. Mounted in the coating itself or internal frame, which allows you to achieve a tight fit of the lid to the floor. This mechanism will allow you to completely hide the hatch from prying eyes.
Pantographs. With their help, the hatch smoothly extends first upward and then to the side. Regardless of the thickness of the material used, the edges of the lid easily emerge from the ceilings.
Gas shock absorbers. With their help, you can easily lift the lid and lock it in the required position. This mechanism allows without an application special effort lift heavy wooden or metal doors located horizontally.
With drive. Allows large and heavy manhole covers to be opened or closed freely. Most often used in the manufacture of metal structures. In turn, the drive mechanism is divided into retractable and retractable. The choice depends only on the wishes of the master himself and the available space.

The choice of loops must be made depending on the load that will be placed on them. In addition, do not forget about the need for backlash and corrosion protection.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a basement hatch with your own hands

Before starting work, you should develop an exact layout of the hatch, taking into account nearby furniture or passages. It is best to arrange the entrance to the basement during the construction phase of the house itself.

If the structure is small, it is recommended to use boards up to 4 cm thick, which must be covered with plywood that is resistant to moisture. If it is expected that the structure will be subject to increased load, it is recommended to use solid timber to make the frame.

Important! A few days before work starts, everything needs to be processed wooden elements drying oil, antiseptic or hydrophobic impregnation. Only after complete drying can you begin to assemble the hatch.

When making a similar structure from metal, it is recommended to take sheets of steel with a thickness of 3 mm and the same corner. To isolate the basement from the living space, it is recommended to insulate it with a sheet of foam plastic.

When making a wooden structure, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:

Nail to subfloor frame made of 4 bars.
Assemble a blank from boards and plywood, the size of which is 10 mm smaller than the selected one.
Install hinges or shock absorbers on the basement side.
Cut out a hidden handle.
Screw the cover at an angle of 90° and check the operation mechanism.

Hidden hatches made of wood should be made multi-layered. To do this, it is recommended to cover the first and outer layers with moisture-resistant plywood, and fill the padding along the edges of the sheathing and the internal space with insulation. It is imperative to leave a gap (10 mm).

Metal elements are easier to make yourself. This requires:

Cut doors that will fit the selected dimensions.
Weld the corners around the perimeter of the hatch. If the structure is large, then it needs to be fixed in the internal part.
Lay polystyrene foam, the thickness of which will not exceed the height of the corner.
Secure the insulation using a thin sheet of steel and self-tapping screws.
Weld and secure the metal frame with an anchor.
Attach reinforced hinges with a closer to one side of the frame, and a small strip of insulation to the other.

Don't forget to follow the steps for installing the hatch

Important! All parts made of metal must first be coated with anti-corrosion agents or paint.

If bookmarking is made concrete floor simultaneously with the installation of the entrance to the basement, then in order to bring the hatch on the same level with the floor, you need to slightly recess the frame in depth by 1-2 mm.

Precise adherence to the markings is required for hidden installation. On metal parts It is necessary to prepare holes for fastenings in advance with exact dimensions. In the case of wooden hatches, it is necessary to make holes 0.5-1 cm smaller than required, since the fibers may swell.

The last stage is installation. To do this, you need to place a bar under the end of the cover; its height will be equal to the gap that needs to be left. Fixation is carried out only with the lid open 90°. Upon completion of work, it is necessary to check the operation of the mechanism. When jammed in any area, it is necessary to shift and twist the hinges.

Finally

The entrance to the basement, located on the floor, is convenient way organizing the entire space both inside and outside the basement. A basement hatch with shock absorbers must meet all safety requirements and also be convenient to use.

You can install hatches under tiles yourself. To avoid possible mistakes, it is recommended to draw up a drawing of the entrance to the dungeon on shock absorbers in advance.

The hatch turns the basement into an isolated room, so that a dog or cat will not fall into it. If the hatch is equipped with a reliable lock, then vegetables or seams will not be stolen from your basement. In this article we will talk about in various ways installing a hatch into the basement. These methods depend on the material the basement roof is made from, as well as the tools and construction skills available.

Hatch dimensions

There is no standard regulating sizes basement hatch, however, all hatches can be divided into two types:

with straight stairs;
with an oblique staircase.

A hatch is a passage in the roof of the basement, but the distance from it to the floor is 2–4 meters, so you can’t do without a ladder. If a vertical staircase is installed in the basement, then a hatch is needed small size, which will let any family member in with a bag or jar in their hands. If the staircase is installed obliquely, then a long hatch will be required, because the descent to the basement runs diagonally. The length of such a hatch can reach 2 meters. A further increase in length does not make sense, because most basement stairs are installed at an angle of 45 degrees or more, that is, at a distance of 2 meters from the beginning of the hatch, the height will be at least 2 meters. Therefore, even a tall person can easily pass through such a hatch.

Material for making hatch

For making a hatch, boards and steel are best suited. A hatch made from boards is easier to make and install, because you don’t have to use a grinder and welding machine. But the metal hatch is stronger, this is important if there is a chance that your basement is going to be robbed by homeless people. For a basement located inside the house, a wooden hatch is preferable - it is not difficult to make and no special strength is expected from it. After all, if an attacker breaks into the house, he will find something to profit from besides the basement. Another advantage of a wooden hatch is that it is much easier to finish it so that it does not stand out on the floor.

Choosing a location for installation

When choosing a location to install a hatch, it is necessary to take into account the structure of the floor and the movement of people. If the floor is made of wood, then the hatch can only be installed between the joists, because damage to even one joist will lead to sagging of the floor, squeaks and vibrations. If the floor is made of hollow core slabs, then the hatch should be located at the junction of two slabs. If the hatch is long, then it must be placed along the slabs. Any other installation will lead to severe weakening of one of the slabs, which may result in its collapse.

In a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, the hatch can be located anywhere, but the closer to the center, the better. The strength of the hatch is much less than the strength of the floor, so it must be installed in those places where people walk least often and do not place furniture. However, the smaller the hatch size, the less susceptible it is to this rule. Hatches measuring up to 80x80 cm (length and width) with a powerful frame and a rebate with a width of at least 25 mm can be installed even in the most accessible places. To do this, the manhole cover will need to be made not from a thin, but from a thick (over 40 mm) board

Hatch design

Any hatch consists of the following elements:

boxes;
doors;
awnings;
pens;
castle

The box is attached to the floor and bears the entire load, so in wooden hatches it is made of planed boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of at least 150 mm. To create an iron hatch box, use a steel corner measuring 50–60 mm.

Most often, in wooden hatches, the door is made of planed boards 20–25 mm thick. If the hatch is located in a passageway, then the door is made of planed boards 40–50 mm thick. In an iron hatch, the door is made from steel sheet 2–3 mm thick and amplifiers made from angle iron with a shelf width of 30–40 mm. Any canopies can be used, as long as they are guaranteed to withstand the weight of the door. Handles can be either protruding or hidden or semi-concealed. Any window or door handles are suitable as protruding handles, and use various rings as hidden or semi-hidden ones. As a lock, you can use either bolts, mortise or padlocks.

How to make a hatch

Any hatch must first be assembled, make sure it works, and only then cut into the floor. Otherwise, a situation is possible when you make a hole in the floor, and then realize that you are missing something and will have to urgently look for what is missing. Therefore, we will tell you in detail how to make wooden and metal hatches and what to pay attention to. The manufacture of any hatch must begin with the selection of materials and tools.

Wooden hatch

To make a wooden hatch you will need to get the following materials:

planed board 50x150 or 50x200 mm;
planed boards 25 or 40 mm thick;
window or door awnings;
self-tapping screws;
nails.

And tools:

milling machine;
jigsaw;
a circular saw;
drill with a set of wood drills;
screwdriver with a set of bits;
hammer;
square;
chisels;
reward (special wood hacksaw for fine work);
pencil.

A router is only needed to cut the rebates in the box boards, so if you don't have one, visit your local carpenter or furniture workshop, where they will select folds for you for a small fee required size. The dimensions of the box should be 0.5–1 cm smaller sizes opening. When marking the parts of the box, keep in mind that vertical (similar to regular doors) the bars on which the canopies are installed must be of full length, and the length of the horizontal bars must be calculated.

After all, their length should be less than the width of the box by twice the width of the fold side. Having determined the dimensions of the bars, proceed to cutting the boards. To do this, first use a square to draw a perpendicular line on one of the ends of the board, then cut the board strictly along the line. This operation is called trimming and is best done using circular saw. Then measure the required length of the board, mark a mark and a perpendicular line on it and cut it with a circular saw.

Place a horizontal board on the table and attach vertical boards to its ends. Mark the line vertical boards, then cut along the line of the horizontal boards with a reward (the depth of the cut is equal to the depth of the fold) and carefully chip off the cut area using a chisel. This is necessary to create a level area so that the vertical and horizontal boards are pressed tightly against each other. Having processed all the horizontal boards in this way, assemble the box, knocking it down with nails 100–120 mm long. Align the box with a square, then insert it into the opening to make sure the dimensions match. After this, place the box on the table and cut thin boards. They also need to be trimmed first and then cut to the required length.

The length of the boards should be 2–3 mm less space for them. After this, lay the boards on a workbench or table to form them into a door of the required width. Most likely, the door will be wider than necessary, so one of the boards will have to be cut using a circular saw. To do this, mark the required width on the folded boards, which is 3–5 mm less than the internal width of the box along the folds. Then draw a straight line parallel to the other edge of the door and cut the board along this line.

Lay out all the door boards on the table and connect them with three boards in the shape of the letter Z, and the width of these boards should be 10 mm less than the internal width of the box, excluding the fold. If you are making a door from a 20–25 mm board, then the length of the nails should be 70 mm. If the board is 35–40 thick, then the length of the nails should be 120 mm. The nails should go through both boards all the way, then use pliers to bend their ends at an angle of 90 degrees at a distance of 1 cm. Having bent the nails, support the heads with something and bend them so that the bent ends go into the wood.

This method of fastening is not only very reliable, but also as safe as possible, because no one will get injured if they get caught on the sharp tip of a nail sticking out of the door. Insert the door into the frame to make sure it fits in and out easily, then insert the frame and door into the opening you prepared for it. If everything is fine, hang the door on the frame and install the hatch in the opening. If the hatch and door no longer fit the opening, check the door with a square; most likely you warped it during assembly. To fix the door, you will have to unbend the nails, pull them out, then align all the boards normally and hammer in the nails again, but in different places. If the door is of the correct shape, then you will have to trim the opening.

Iron hatch

To make it you will need:

corner 50–60 mm;
corner 20–30 mm;
sheet iron 2–3 mm thick;
window or door awnings.

Here is a list of the required tools:

grinder with various discs and a metal brush;
welding inverter;
drill with a set of metal drills;
square;
tap.

Cut horizontal and vertical elements boxes from a 50–60 mm corner, and you need to cut them at an angle of 45 degrees to make it more convenient to cook. Then place all the workpieces on the table, leveling them with a square and connect them with tacks. Carefully place this box blank into the opening to make sure it fits properly. If necessary, widen the opening or adjust its shape. Place the box blank on the table and boil it. Cut a door from sheet metal, and the dimensions of the door should be 5 mm smaller internal size boxes.

Make sure the door fits well into the frame. Cut out 20–30 mm reinforcements from the corner and weld them to the door. Moreover, on the back side the vertical shelf of the corner should be flush with the door, and on the front side there should be a horizontal shelf flush with the door, and the vertical one should be behind it. Thanks to this design, the door will not cling to the frame. In addition to the 4 reinforcements around the perimeter of the door, also weld 2 reinforcements in the shape of the letter X. After this, hang the door on the frame.

Installation

To attach the hatch to the opening, holes are drilled in the vertical bars of the box, then secured to the concrete using anchor bolts, and wooden floor using nails. For attachment to hollow core slab We recommend the following method - punch 6-7 holes measuring 5x5 cm in the wall of the slab, then pour thick concrete into them, starting from the outer ones. After pouring concrete into the hole, plug it with a wooden plug. Then fill the next hole and plug it again. So move from the outer holes to the center. After a day, remove the wooden plugs. After 25–30 days, attach the hatch to the opening using anchors. If you want to cover the hatch with finishing so that it looks like a floor, then lower it to the thickness of the finishing material.

Conclusion

Any person who is familiar with carpentry, plumbing or welding can install the hatch independently. After reading the article, you learned what is needed to create and install a hatch, as well as what the procedure is. Thanks to this, you can make a reliable and practical hatch that will protect your basement from unwanted intrusions.

Almost every owner own home sets up a cellar in his home - a place where he can store canned food, products from the garden, and seasonal items. In a properly equipped cellar, due to its proximity to the ground, it always preserves low temperature and a certain humidity. The entrance to the cellar, located on the floor, often leads from the kitchen or hallway of the house.

You need to know how to properly make an entrance hatch into the “bins” in order to avoid heat loss and not disturb the interior of the floor of the room. It is also important to consider a system of stoppers or shock absorbers that will prevent spontaneous closing of the hatch at the moment when a person descends into the cellar.

If the construction of a house is in full swing and the location of the hatch to the basement or cellar is still at the development stage, it is worth considering the following nuances.

The entrance should be located in a convenient place, not next to a wall. This is necessary so that the hatch opens without any interference.
If you plan to make the entrance to the cellar in the kitchen, it is important to place the entrance where there will be no furniture, for example, dinner table. It is important that the raised lid does not touch kitchen set or other things.
The design of the hatch cover must be reinforced and withstand the weight of a person, if, for example, the entrance to the cellar will be from the corridor.
Dimensions of the entrance to the cellar. They must be “tailored” to the dimensions of the owners. This is necessary in order to easily go down to the basement and get the necessary things and products out of it.

A wooden hatch is made if a wooden plank. This will visually hide the entrance to the underground and lighten the weight of the entire structure.

To make a wooden hatch, the following tools are required.

Saw.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Brush.

You also need to prepare the necessary materials.

Boards for the top flooring.
Laths for sheathing.
Beams for supports
Plywood.
Drying oil.
Nails.
Screws.
Chalk or pencil.
Insulation.
Hinges and gas shock absorber.
Pen.

If the hole into the cellar measures 80 by 80 cm, then the lid should be made a little smaller so that it fits freely to the floor. The gaps between the floor and the hatch cover should be no more than 4-5 mm.

The height of the hatch must match the dimensions of the final and rough coating. For this purpose, the hatch is made multi-layered. The first layer is plywood, onto which slats are laid in the form of sheathing. Insulation (second layer) is placed between these slats to prevent drafts. A board (finishing layer) is attached to the top of the slats.

It is advisable to select a material that matches the width and thickness of the board laid on the floor. It is also a good idea to nail the top boards of the hatch parallel to the floorboard so that the cover does not stand out too much on the floor.

The design of such an insulated wooden hatch is not too heavy; it can be equipped with ordinary hinges attached to the basement side. But experts recommend equipping the hatch with gas closers, which simplify lifting the structure.

A special handle is attached to the front surface of the hatch, which is placed on the floor and does not protrude.

Video - Hatch to a cellar made of wood with closers

Metal structures are more reliable and stronger than wooden hatches. But making such a lid is much more difficult.

To make a metal hatch you will need the following tools.

Angle grinder with cutting metal disk.
Welding machine.
Screwdriver.
Roulette.

You should also stock up on materials.

Sheet steel, thickness 3 mm and 1 mm.
Steel corner 3-4 mm.
Loops.
Gas closer.
Anchors
Polystyrene foam or other insulation material.
Rubber gaskets-sealers.
Primer.

To make the lid you need cut a sheet of steel to size, for example, 80 by 80 cm. Experts recommend using material at least 3 mm thick.

A corner is welded onto the steel around the perimeter from the inside. It is also recommended to weld stiffeners from the same corner, between which to place insulation. It turns out that the area of the hatch cover is divided into 4 sectors. All welding work It is advisable to carry out it carefully, it is advisable to clean the seams.

The insulation should not be wider than the corner. Thin sheet steel or tin is overlapped over the insulating material, is bent using blows with a mallet and secured to the corners with self-tapping screws.

The hatch is ready.

The next stage is the installation of the cellar entrance frame. For this steel angle is cut into fragments corresponding to the size of the hatch opening. The corners are welded between each other and attached to the concrete using anchors. One of the sides of the frame is a support for the metal hatch. On the protruding edge of the frame seal is attached, which will reduce heat loss and protect the hatch from friction and impacts on the edges of the frame.

The lid is attached to the metal frame using special reinforced loops that can support the weight of the structure. To make the hatch easy to open, it is recommended to equip it with gas closers. It is recommended to treat all metal steel parts of the hatch structure with drying oil to avoid corrosion.

If the hatch is installed during the construction of the house, then you can hide the entrance to the underground by finishing floor.

Video – Metal hatch laminate floor

Tiles are the ideal material for the kitchen. Many housewives prefer this type of floor finishing, especially since it is not too difficult to decorate a basement hatch in the same style as the floor covering.

This requires following materials:

steel corner;
steel sheet 3 mm minimum;
reinforcement with a cross section of 3-4 mm;
solution;
tile.

The tools needed are the same as when making a regular metal hatch.

Unlike a regular metal hatch, the tile cover is made slightly differently. A blank corresponding to the size of the hatch is cut out of sheet steel. This will be the bottom. A corner is welded along the perimeter of the workpiece, forming the sides. Reinforcement is welded inside the sides to form cells.

The frame for the entrance to the cellar is welded from steel corners and recessed into concrete to the width of the lid. The structure is connected using reinforced hinges. For safety, you can equip the lid with a gas shock absorber.

Once the structure is ready, you can start decorating it. The mortar on which the tiles will be laid is mixed. The solution is poured into the manhole cover, hiding the reinforcing mesh. Tiles are laid on top.

It is important to lay the material on the hatch so that its seams match the tiles laid on the floor.

Video - DIY cellar hatch (metal)

When arranging the entrance to basements, the reliability and quality of the hinges used are of great importance; installation of elements that are not strong enough or cannot withstand loads leads to rapid loosening of the doors or complicates the process of opening them. If you have the correct drawing, installation is not a problem; mandatory conditions maintenance includes measures to extend service life: inspection, tightening, oil lubrication. You can purchase the necessary accessories at any hardware store, the frame and cover are in most cases made independently.

1. Stretched overhead hinges, fixed on one side of the hatch and on the floor or wall. The cost depends on reliability and decorativeness, maximum costs observed when using forged types.

2. Hidden, mounted in the ceiling or internal frame and allowing the basement door to be brought to the same level as the floor covering. When choosing this option, the hole in the underground is easily covered with a carpet; only the owners of the house will know about it.

3. Driven mechanisms that automatically open and close heavy and massive hatches, most often metal. This variety, in turn, is divided into retractable and folding groups.

4. Pantographs that ensure sequential movement of hatches upward and only then to the side. When using such hinges, the edges of the door come out of the ceilings without problems, regardless of the thickness of the materials. The best results are achieved when they are installed on wooden structures and doors with two leaves.

5. Gas shock absorbers, closers and stops, simplifying the lifting of the hatch from the cellar and allowing it to be fixed in the desired position. The main advantage is the ability to lift heavy doors made of metal and wood by one person when they are positioned horizontally.

Regardless of the type, the fasteners used are subject to strict requirements in terms of withstanding weight loads, ensuring backlash and anti-corrosion protection. Hinges, like handles, are purchased with a reserve. For small manhole sizes (within 0.75-1 m2), two pieces installed closer to the corner are sufficient; in other cases, the axis is strengthened in the center. Actively used hatches require metal edging around the edges; this requirement is taken into account when selecting the backlash.

Description of the “Cellar” set

At self-production and installation, it’s worth buying a universal kit. Standard kit includes:

Gas shock absorbers (stops) with the required length and force (from 500 N and above).
Mounting brackets, including wall bracket.
Hidden hinges (left and right) with a bracket for a gas shock absorber and central ones without it.
A prefabricated lock consisting of a mounting and lifting plate, a locking part with a set of keys that simplify opening the hatch and lifting it.

The Cellar set can be purchased fully equipped, but in most cases not all of its parts are used. When installing a simple basement hatch without shock absorbers, the central hinges and lock are sufficient. Regardless of the selected configuration, the mount ensures free opening of the hole with a minimum gap along its perimeter with a floor covering thickness of up to 1.5 cm. Hidden or secret handles with brackets or a ring are purchased separately. The cost of the parts included in the “Cellar” kit varies from 150 to 1500 rubles, they are characterized by: high quality metal and anti-corrosion protection.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a hatch with your own hands

Work begins with drawing up a layout of the lid, taking into account future furniture and passage locations; if possible, the entrance is arranged at the stage of building the house. To make a small structure, boards up to 40 mm thick are used, covered with moisture-resistant plywood; if intense load is expected, it is better to construct the frame from solid timber. All wooden elements are pre-treated with drying oil, antiseptics or similar hydrophobic impregnation. Metal version It is recommended to make it from a sheet of steel from 3 mm and higher and the same corner; to insulate the underground, it is insulated with a sheet of foam plastic.

When making from wood, a simple procedure is followed: a frame of 4 pieces of timber is nailed to the subfloor → a workpiece 1 cm smaller than the selected size is assembled from boards and plywood → ordinary hinges are installed on the basement side or shock absorbers are fixed → in in the right place a hidden handle is inserted → the lid is screwed at an angle of 90 ° and checked for jamming.

It is recommended to create wooden hidden hatches in multi-layers, top scores are achieved by making the first and outer layer of moisture-resistant plywood, padding along the edges of the sheathing and filling internal space insulation. A 1 cm gap is required.

Wooden varieties are easier to make yourself; you will need a welding machine and an angle grinder with appropriate discs. Step by step diagram The work includes: cutting out a door from metal in compliance with the exact dimensions → welding a corner around the perimeter of the hatch; if the area is large, it is fixed inside the structure as additional stiffening ribs → laying a sheet of foam plastic with a thickness no more than the height of the corner → fixing the insulation using thin steel and self-tapping screws. The next stage consists of welding and anchoring the metal frame; subsequently, reinforced hinges and closers are mounted to one of the selected sides, and a sealing strip is installed to the other.

When arranging a crawl space in the basement while simultaneously laying a concrete floor, no problems arise - to bring the hatch to the same level as the floor, it is enough to recess the frame a few mm deep. In this case it is more difficult to hide the handle; when making it yourself, it is simply welded to outside metal The exception is types that are closed flooring materials, they require a special approach to fastening fittings. All steel elements involved are necessarily coated with anti-corrosion primers or paints.

When conducting hidden installation Special attention is given to markings. On metal structures holes for future fastenings are prepared in advance, all elements have precise dimensions; when working with wooden hatches knocked down or glued together, they are cut 5-10 mm smaller due to the risk of fiber swelling. During installation, a strip with a height that matches the size of the provided gap between it and the floor is placed under the end of the door. Screws or self-tapping screws are screwed in when the hinges are positioned at right angles. During fixation, the lid is opened and closed several times until a smooth movement is achieved, without jamming in any area. If necessary, the hinges are shifted and twisted, but under no circumstances should they be used in an incorrectly secured state.

To ensure safe and long-term service, a number of measures are taken even at the stage of constructing a hatch into the basement with your own hands.

1. In houses with children, protection is provided against accidental opening of the door; if necessary, a lock with keys is inserted into it.

2. External part The lids are finished with the same materials as the rest of the floor. To bring the upper plane to the zero level, the type and thickness of the floor covering are determined in advance.

3. At least once a year, the rotating elements are treated with lithol or oil; with active use, this period is reduced. Both mounted and hidden hinges, free access is provided from the side of the cellar or from above.

4. Measures are being taken to insulate the underground: the hatch is sealed around the perimeter and insulated.

5. If there is a high risk of damage to the floor covering, to prevent creases at the moment of opening, the edges of the tile or laminate facing the axial side are cut at an angle of 60°.

6. The risk of the cover being pressed into the basement is eliminated; the width of the corresponding supporting strips is at least twice the size of the gap or sealing layer.

7. Actively used horizontal hatches are reinforced at the edges with metal.

Temporary doors to the cellar can be secured using a piece of rubber or simple canopies. If it is impossible to purchase factory-quality products, they are fixed on hinges from the hood of the car with a spring mechanism. This option should also be chosen if there is a lot of weight or the need for frequent installation in open position. Car shock absorbers successfully fix both wooden and steel varieties.

Possible mistakes

The main problems arise when bringing the upper plane level with the floor mark, especially when making a hatch under the tiles with your own hands. Erroneous actions include fixing the door or screwing the hinges before installing the floor covering or adjusting its position when the concrete has not yet hardened.

Opening and changing the fastening is only permissible if there is a stable frame: the heavier the structure, the stronger Negative consequences. Violations of installation and operation technology also include the lack of anti-corrosion protection for metal elements and antifungal - for wooden ones, using weak hinges and ignoring the need for their lubrication.

Arranging your Vacation home, the owner is trying to equip a place to store food, preserves or other things. A stone cellar in a garage, an underground space under a building with an entrance from the kitchen or hallway, a basement located on the street - these are just a few construction options. The room for household needs must be sealed. A hatch designed to close a home cellar will help protect food from debris and regulate the microclimate in the “dungeon.”

Construction nuances: designing the door

At the stage of developing the location of the cellar lid, the following factors need to be taken into account:

The entrance should not be located next to the wall, so that there is room for the sash to swing open.
If you plan to install an underground floor in the kitchen, then the hatch is placed where the kitchen unit will not be located. It is important that when the lid is open, it does not touch furniture or other decorative elements.
The basement under the house must be equipped with a reinforced door that can support the weight of a person.
The optimal dimensions of the cellar and entrance should correspond to the dimensions of the owners.

Preparatory work

Having found perfect place under the underground room and placing the entrance to it, we proceed to arranging the door. Before you make a hatch, comfortable and reliable, for the cellar with your own hands, you should select the optimal parameters of the hatch. It is made of such width and height as to make it possible to freely lower food and preserves into it.
The size of the hatch directly depends on the body proportions of the owners. So that a person does not have difficulty descending into the room, make a hole with an area of at least 75x75 cm. At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the future placement of the handle.
The entrance must be equipped with special supports on which the cellar is placed. To ensure structural strength, it is better to install four main rods.

Materials used for the burial entrance

When choosing the type of door, the location of the basement is taken into account. You can make your own cellar lid from the following materials: wood, metal, and in some cases tile. The use of each of them has a number of features associated with their further operation.

DIY wooden door

A wooden cellar cover is made if the floor of the house is covered with wood boards. Natural materials provide visual camouflage of the subfloor and lighten the weight of the structure. To make it you will need a set of tools - a hammer, a saw, a screwdriver, a brush. It is also necessary to prepare the following list of materials:

flooring boards;
slats for lathing;
support bars;
screws, nails;
drying oil;
plywood sheet;
thermal insulation film;
chalk, pencil;
pen;
shock absorber, hatch hinges.

The hole into the cellar has dimensions of 80x80 cm; it is necessary to equip it with a door of a slightly smaller area, which ensures a good fit to the floor and a small gap of 5 mm.
We perform the following steps:

To begin with, we nail 4 beams for support onto the rough version of the underground flooring.
We cut the floorboard into 79 cm pieces.
Cut a square 79x79 cm from plywood sheet. 1 cm will be the gap between the floor and the door, preventing deformation as a result high humidity or temperature changes.
To lath the inside, we cut the slats into 79 cm pieces.
Before connecting all the elements of the hatch for a home cellar, we cover them with drying oil, which provides protection from fungus and moisture.

The height of the structure must correspond to the size of the floor covering, so it is made multi-layered. The first layer is plywood with slatted sheathing, the second is thermal insulation (an insulated opening prevents drafts and the passage warm air from home). A finishing layer is applied to the top and the board is fixed. The surface coating must match the thickness of the flooring. To prevent the cellar lid from standing out too much, the top boards are nailed parallel to the floor.

Self-production of a metal hatch

Metal structures are more reliable and durable than the previous version. Steel sheets are most often used for arranging a cellar in a garage. For production you will need:

steel sheets, thickness 1 mm and 3 mm;
metal corner about 3 or 4 mm;
loops;
anchor;
gas closer;
a sheet of foam plastic or other material to insulate the entrance;
primer;
rubber seals;
tape measure, knife, screwdriver, welding and angle grinder for disc grinding.

Now the question arises - how to make a cellar lid from a steel sheet in the garage with your own hands. We perform the following manipulations:

We cut out a sheet of 80x80 cm from a metal sheet.
Along the perimeter of the square steel blank, on the inside, we weld a corner and stiffeners. Visually, the area can be divided into 4 sectors.
We insulate the structure with foam plastic or other material.
We overlap 1 mm thick sheet steel on top of the insulating layer. Its edges are bent and fixed with self-tapping screws.

At this stage, the creation for the cellar is completely ready. All that remains is to carry out installation work which includes the following steps:

The entrance frame is being installed. Fragments of the steel angle are welded together, forming a square corresponding to the parameters of the hatch opening.
the frame is fixed with anchors to the concrete. One side of the frame will support the structure.
the protruding edges of the metal lining are sealed with gaskets to reduce heat loss and protect against mechanical damage.
The cellar lid is attached to the frame with reinforced hinges. For comfortable opening, it is recommended to equip it with a gas closer.

A steel basement hatch can also be used indoors. Finishing layer should be covered with plywood or other wood material, resembling the floor in a room.

Tiles are a popular covering for kitchen walls and floors. The presence of an underground space under the house obliges the entrance to be decorated in the same style. To make a hatch under the tiles you will need:

steel corner:
sheet steel 3 mm;
solution;
tile;
fittings

Unlike the production of a metal manhole, the entrance under the tiles is made more simply:

A blank is cut out of steel sheet corresponding to the parameters of the hole in the basement. This will be the bottom of the structure.
Corners are welded along the perimeter, forming sides. Reinforcement in the form of cells is fixed inside them.
The entrance frame of the cellar is made of corners and recessed into concrete.
The structure is connected to the support with reinforced hinges.
The solution is mixed and the tile elements are applied.

The lid is decorated using tiles laid out according to the pattern. When decorating the surface, adhere to the geometry of the floor covering.

Basement lid hinges

When equipping a cellar hatch with your own hands, use regular door hinges. They are suitable for wooden lid, but when open it will not be able to lock in a certain position. For fixing, options from the domestic auto industry are suitable - hood hinges, which can ensure the door is fixed in any position.
To make lifting a heavy hatch easier, use a special mechanism that consists of a coil spring, a jamb fastening, a steel rod, a hinge with a bracket and a screw.
Expensive option, but reliable option– a mechanism for raising the cellar hatch using remote control management. The device consists of an automation system for an electric motor installed on the structure, a toggle switch and a power source.

Sealing the basement entrance

Insulation of the entrance to the cellar prevents cold air from entering the cellar living room. Reliable sealing prevents the penetration of moisture and odors.
To ensure a microclimate inside the basement, the following materials are used as insulation:

polypropylene (suitable for the lid of cellars located on the street);
Styrofoam;
expanded polystyrene;
glass wool

To seal the entrance, felt tape and door seal, which eliminate the entry of air and mechanical damage to the frame when closing the lid.
A properly equipped cellar lid is the key to comfortable use of the basement. Before you make it yourself, you need to decide what the hatch will be like, what it will be made of and how it will open. By thinking through every detail of the design, you can rationalize the operation of the basement and preserve the crop for a long time.