How to sand a parquet board at home. Polishing parquet with your own hands. Sanding hard-to-reach areas

Introduction

The parquet has to be renewed every 5 years. Of course, this can be done more often, it all depends on the wear of the floor and the condition of the varnish coating of the parquet.

Sanding parquet - five stages

Restoration and polishing of parquet includes the following 5 stages:

Preparing parquet for sanding;
Rough sanding of parquet;
Finish sanding of parquet;
Parquet putty;
Varnishing of parquet.

Let's go through all the stages of parquet sanding in more detail.

Preparing parquet for sanding

Before sanding, you need to repair the parquet. To begin, completely empty the room of furniture. Carefully examine the parquet flooring. Tap each plank. If, when tapping, individual planks make a dull sound, it means that they have come unstuck from the base and voids have formed under them. Such planks need to be drilled, then construction syringe pump parquet glue into the hole, put a load on the floor (press it down with something) and let it dry.

Don't forget to clean the room; if there are paint stains or other old stains on the old varnish, clean them with a scraper so that the sanding paper does not clog in the future. Remove all nails and screws from the hardwood floor (if there are any).

Tools and material for sanding parquet

To sand parquet you will need tools for parquet work:

A sanding machine, or officially PShM, a parquet sanding machine. The instrument is expensive, but it is quite possible to rent it. Needed for sanding the main floor area.
Manual belt or disc sander. If you don’t have one, you can use a grinder, otherwise an angle grinder or an angle grinder. This tool is needed for sanding corners and floor-to-wall junctions.
Manual cycle. Useful for cleaning parquet floors in very hard to reach places, for example under the battery.
Sandpaper strips. The grain size of the skin is indicated by numbers. The higher the number, the finer the grit of the sandpaper. You will need sandpaper No. 40;60;80;120.
Wood putty, for sealing cracks and holes in parquet;
High-quality varnish for parquet;
Vacuum cleaner for cleaning the room, small hand tools (scissors, screwdriver, rags, etc.)

After preparing the room, tools and material, you can begin sanding the parquet.

Rough sanding of parquet

For rough sanding of parquet you will need a parquet sanding machine. belt type. For rough sanding, use #40 sandpaper. The grinding area of this machine is 10-12 cm away from the wall.

At the walls of the room, along the perimeter and in the corners, sanding is done with hand-held disc or belt sanders.

Important! Do not use hand sanders to sand the underlying floor surface. The high speed of manual machines will lead to the formation of holes and irregularities.

The first rough sanding is done with #40 sandpaper. The purpose of this sanding is to remove old varnish, floor dirt and level the floor. The parquet is sanded first along the room, then across it. When sanding, carefully monitor the condition of the skin. Worn sandpaper can burn the parquet, leaving unpleasant dark spots on it.

After rough sanding the parquet, its unevenness should not exceed 2 mm per length of the 3 meter rule established on the floor.

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After sanding the parquet with sandpaper No. 40, nicks and scratches will remain on the parquet. This is fine. These scratches are removed by the following sandings, using sandpaper No. 60, then No. 80.

If the parquet is laid using the deck method (parallel to the walls), then this stage of sanding the parquet must be done along the laying line.

When laying parquet with a herringbone pattern, the parquet is sanded diagonally.

This grinding should ensure that the unevenness of the floor does not exceed 1 mm per length of the two-meter rule

Parquet putty

The parquet is puttyed after sanding with sandpaper No. 80. The color of the putty is selected according to the texture and color of the wood. You need to use acrylic putty on water based or parquet varnish mixed with sawdust from your parquet.

When puttying, the gaps between the planks are sealed. A metal spatula is used. The putty is applied between the seams, herringbone in relation to the seams between the planks.

Finish sanding of parquet

After puttying, the parquet is finished sanded. For it you need to use sandpaper No. 120. You also need to release the pressure of the drum on the floor. This is done with a special adjusting screw on the PShM.
The direction of sanding is also carried out in the direction of laying the planks, along when laying decks and diagonally if the parquet is laid in a herringbone pattern. The quality of the final grinding is checked by hand. The floor must be absolutely smooth.
Sanding of the parquet is completed by thoroughly cleaning and removing dust from the floor using a vacuum cleaner.
The complete grinding process takes 5-6 hours.

After sanding, the parquet is varnished

The room before varnishing should be 22-24 °C, all drafts should be eliminated.

Parquet is varnished in several layers

The first layer is primer;
Next are three layers of varnish;
At the end is a glossy fixing gel.

Between each coat of varnish, the surface is sanded with a R-220 diamond mesh.

Photo album "Sanding parquet"

Parquet is a piece of flooring, so in the process of laying several hundred planks it is impossible to achieve a completely flat surface.

For this purpose, special processes have been developed - scraping and grinding. The same methods are used to restore old parquet.

Their main purpose is to bring the finished parquet floor to perfection.

Before you varnish a parquet floor, you need to sand it, that is, actually polish the coating to a “perfectly smooth” state. Using the same processing technique, the remnants of the old are removed. paint process, pollution, minor defects, scratches, weak wood fibers that “rose” during the process of laying or sanding the floor.

The secret to a well-performed grind is to gradually reduce the grain of the attachments. First, rough processing is carried out, then finer processing. This approach allows you to achieve excellent results even on the surface it is in very poor condition.

There is no need to sand the parquet yourself in the following cases:

When the gaps between the old floor planks are more than 7 mm. Grouting and bringing it back to normal condition is incredibly labor-intensive work, and no one can guarantee that after a few months this coating will not deform. For such cases, it is recommended either a complete replacement or re-laying of the canvas with processing of each die and the use of adhesive mixtures.
Severe abrasion of the most frequent places of walking (corridors, passages between rooms) or deep scratches, chips, as well as grooves gnawed by woodworms. It is better to first replace the damaged area and then sand the entire floor.
The parquet was filled with a large amount of water and swelled, mold and mildew appeared. Treatment is by replacement only.

Required materials and tools

As a rule, the owner of a house who decides to restore or install a parquet floor on his own is faced with the question - how to sand the parquet? There are two ways: manual and machine. The first one is very labor-intensive, time-consuming, and not too expensive. This is sanding by hand.

In this case, you will need the following materials for polishing parquet:

Mixed-grain skins in rolls (from 40 to 120 units). The quantity depends on the area being treated.
The holder (grater) for sandpaper is plastic or wooden. It is better to choose one with an ergonomic handle, otherwise your hand will get tired quickly.
A manual scraper (scraper) for removing old paintwork, which is a steel plate bent at an angle of 45°, mounted on a wooden or plastic clamping handle.
Respirator mask to protect the respiratory tract from dust.

But manual processing rarely anyone uses it; they prefer the second method - machine. This is all due to the availability of equipment, because what you can’t buy can be rented at reasonable prices.

For rough pre-processing of parquet or any wooden floors (tongue and groove boards, parquet boards, engineered wood) a parquet belt sander is required drum type.

It is also used during the restoration of parquet floors to remove old paint coatings and is used when simultaneous scraping and sanding of parquet is required.

Available in two versions - with single-phase (220 V) and three-phase drive (380 V). Modern models equipped with a fabric bag for collecting dust. The cost of the unit depends on the profile: household units can be purchased at a price of 6,000 rubles, professional units – from 90,000 rubles.

Fine grinding of parquet boards and parquet is carried out using single- or three-disc surface grinders with wheel attachments made of sandpaper with a grain size of 120 to 340 units.

This is exclusively professional equipment; it is used for fine polishing of a wooden floor before painting and after applying putty, as well as for intermediate polishing of the base between layers of paint and varnish. The price starts from 60,000 rubles.

Angle grinders for parquet (“boot”) are designed to work in places that are difficult to reach for large units (under radiators, in corners, near door frames).

Velcro-type circle attachments are used; grain size ranges from 40 to 400 units. Equipped with fabric dust collection bags on rotary handles.

A construction vacuum cleaner is used for removing dust from surfaces and/or connecting to grinders that are not equipped with built-in pumps.

Ready-made putty or liquid is needed to prepare a tinted putty mixture to level out minor defects.

Do not forget about components and consumables - abrasive belts or wheels, scissors, wrenches for fixing drums on grinders, steel or silicone spatulas.

All equipment can be rented at reasonable prices. Thus, a small parquet grinder for rental will cost from 800 rubles/day, large machines – from 1500 rubles/day with a deposit amount of 20,000 rubles.

Work technology

Parquet sanding jobs include preparation, deep/rough sanding, fine sanding, filling defects and finishing sanding. Let's consider all stages separately.

Preparatory stage

Freshly laid parquet should be inspected for minor defects (lost knots, loose or weakly glued planks), damage (chips, cracks). All these shortcomings can be easily eliminated using putty or wood glue.

Bitumen mastic for gluing solid board Doctors do not recommend using it. It is better to use special adhesive compositions free of phenol and formaldehyde.

All hardware and other protruding elements must be recessed into the wood by 3-4 mm, so as not to damage the drum of an expensive machine.

Sanding old parquet – more difficult process, since almost every plank needs to be checked for integrity and fastening. Damaged elements are replaced, weakly glued ones are re-glued. After finishing the work, you need to vacuum and wipe the entire coating. damp cloth.

Rough grinding

Before starting work, it is advisable to adjust the clamping force of the drum and its uniform fit. This is done using a special screw and wheel balancing.

A 40-grit abrasive is loaded into the drum and deep sanding of the parquet floor along the parquet fibers begins. Lateral movement is allowed on turns. For herringbone, processing is carried out diagonally, for palace or wicker - crosswise, for artistic - in a circle with a spiral twist.

Drafts must not be allowed. Therefore, it is advisable to close the windows in the room being treated.

As the abrasive material wears out, it must be replaced with a new one.

After finishing the work, you need to use an angle grinder to walk in a circular motion around corners and hard-to-reach places. The grain size of the nozzles is the same – 40 units.

Fine grinding

This is done using a surface grinder. It removes all irregularities, scratches, and minor defects. In this case, wheels with a grain size from 60 to 120 units are used. It turns out that the parquet is brought to perfect condition in 3-4 passes. As discs wear out, they need to be replaced.

All hard-to-reach places are again treated with a “boot” with appropriate nozzles - from 60 to 120 units. After finishing work, the floor is vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth.

Puttying

Defects in the restored floor are corrected with ready-made colored wood putty (Belinka, Helios, Tex). If it is possible to purchase a special putty liquid, then it is better to make the mixture yourself. In this case, a perfect match to the tone of the parquet is guaranteed.

You need to take into account the fact that the varnish “burns” the wood a little. After varnishing, even with a transparent composition, the floor darkens by 1-3 tones, so it is preferable to use homemade putty.

A pile of fine sawdust is poured onto the floor and poured special composition, quickly stir with a spatula made of of stainless steel and is evenly distributed with rubbing movements throughout the parquet. Drying time – up to 24 hours.

Finish grinding

To finally bring it to perfection, the parquet needs to be worked on again using a flat grinding machine with a wheel, grit size 120 and above. Some professional varnishes require preliminary preparation with nozzles from 240 and above. The movement of the unit is in the direction of the fibers.

After finishing the work, you need to vacuum again with an industrial device and rinse with a damp cloth. After this, the floor is primed and varnished in 2-4 layers. Between 1 and 2, intermediate grinding with a surface grinder with an attachment with a grit size of over 160 units is desirable.

How to choose grinding machines

Belt sanders are not purchased for frequent use, but their choice must be approached responsibly.

In this case, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

Purpose. Household grinders are compact (up to 10 kg), inexpensive, size work surface– up to 10 cm. Used for primary treatment in small areas. More than 10 sq. m. area is very difficult for them to process evenly - you need experienced master with an excellent eye. Professional units are voluminous, weight up to 100 kg, belt width up to 25 cm. They are used for both coarse and fine grinding. The weak point is the rubber glued to the drum. It can be easily damaged by a nail or a rod of wire protruding from the floor.
Power. Simple cars consume up to 1 kW, professional ones - from 2.5 kW and above. Of course, the more powerful the device, the faster the grinding is carried out.
Functionality. There must be an RCD, a gear shift lever, and special limit rollers that allow you to process parquet close to the wall without fear of touching the baseboard.
Ergonomics. The front cover should be hinged to ensure easy installation and dismantling of the drum and skins. The clamps must ensure good tension of the tape
Build quality and performance. The device must have an even coating without chips or drips, the gaps between parts must be minimal, and the fastenings must be strong and reliable.

The price plays an important role here, but if you are going to do this constantly, then it is better not to save. For one-time work, you can use rental equipment.

Video - sanding parquet various types grinding machines:

Stages of polishing parquet

All stages of parquet sanding are clearly presented in this article. Let's list them briefly:

initial grinding with a belt (drum) type machine, allowing you to remove the old protective covering;
grinding with an angle grinder in hard-to-reach places (near walls, in corners, under radiators, etc.);
basic grinding with a surface grinder using abrasives of various grain sizes;
parquet putty, which consists of filling the cracks with a specially prepared composition: fine wood dust mixed with the base putty material;
final grinding, which is performed with a surface grinder;
in hard-to-reach places, final grinding is carried out using a vibrating apparatus or a manual cycle;
cleaning the floor surface with a powerful vacuum cleaner;
initial application of varnish, by agreement with the customer it can be done twice;
intermediate sanding, necessary to make the surface uniform and eliminate defects, for example, air bubbles formed when the varnish comes into contact with unprotected wood, or raised wood “lint”;
finishing coat varnish.

Principles of work of the craftsmen of the Parquet 03 company

A distinctive feature of our company is a responsible attitude to all orders, regardless of their volume. We perform parquet work equally well, including sanding, and one-room apartment, and in numerous office premises reputable company.

The principle of our work is to provide the customer with the most high quality for a reasonable price. How could it be otherwise if we're talking about about a company that is considered the best in its field?

In this photo report we will clearly show and explain how sanding, puttying and varnishing of parquet should be carried out.

To remove old varnish or oil, two types of grinding machines are used: SO-206 (Ukraine) or Hummel (Germany). IN this option SO-206 is used

After removing the old protective layer from the parquet along the main “field”, you can begin to remove the remaining varnish or oil along the walls and hard-to-reach places (under radiators, near door jambs etc.)

To do this, you will need a Flip or Elan angle grinder (Germany), which is capable of processing parquet along walls and built-in furniture as closely as possible. IN in this case Elan machine is used.

For complete sanding of parquet, a Trio surface sander is required. Using it, parquet is sanded different types abrasive paper, which makes it more even and smooth. When the parquet is almost ready for varnishing (80% of the work), you can begin to putty it.

To prepare the putty mass, a fine fraction of wood dust is used. As a rule, it is taken from the dust collector of the grinding machine and mixed with a special base composition for putty.

In this case, a solvent-based “base” is used, which, after drying, has excellent strength and resistance to drying out.

When puttying, the master rubs the composition into the parquet with a special wide, spring spatula. With this technique, the putty composition fills wide and thin cracks very deeply.

In order to remove excess putty from the surface of the parquet, you will again need a Trio machine, which will remove it and prepare the parquet for varnishing.

A vibrating machine is used for final preparation of parquet in hard-to-reach places. We use professional Bosch machines.

In special places, the master uses a “tsiklu” - a professional hand tool.

After the parquet floor is ready for application of varnishes, it is necessary to thoroughly clean it of dust using a powerful vacuum cleaner.

Applying the first layer of varnish is a very important stage in the work. Applying varnish in an even, uniform layer is not an easy task.

The difficulty lies in the rapid penetration of the first layer into the wood. If the varnish layer is uneven, sagging, streaks and stains may appear.

Applying a second coat of varnish, preferably within 40-90 minutes after the first.

The second layer of varnish is applied in the same uniform layer as the first. On average, 80-120 grams of varnish are consumed per square meter. It depends on the porosity of the wood and the varnish itself.

After the second layer, a technological break of 10-12 hours is required. It allows the first two layers of varnish to dry well. Now you can start intermediate sanding of the varnish. It can be carried out: manually, with a special mesh; vibrating machine or a special Columbus single-disc grinding machine. Here we use the Columbus machine. The choice depends on the evenness of the floor and the varnish used.

After intermediate sanding of the varnish, the floor surface is again carefully cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. If two-component varnishes are used, then a filter mesh is placed on the neck of the jar with varnish.

Third or any finishing layer varnish is final and, accordingly, indicative, requiring attentiveness and accuracy.

We long years We were on our way to becoming the best!

Features of parquet sanding

Drum or belt machines are usually used for sanding parquet. However, they do not level, but only “smooth out” unevenness in height between adjacent planks. In addition, such machines unevenly remove soft and hard layers of wood, and besides, drum machines also leave serious “shot” on the floor surface. After applying the varnish, all these shortcomings begin to clearly catch the eye and spoil the mood of the customer.

To avoid unpleasant “surprises”, the specialists of the Parquet03 company use a TRIO three-disc surface grinder and a Flip angle grinder. Thanks to three special discs on which the abrasive is installed, the layers of wood are cut evenly and the floor surface is perfectly flat and smooth. This grinding is also called Euro grinding. For intermediate oil polishing and varnish sanding, we use a Columbus single-disc machine.

You can find out more about parquet sanding and the cost of providing services by calling our managers by phone. Contact us, and we will perform the work entrusted to us with high quality and professionalism.

Electrical equipment for parquet sanding, selection abrasive tools for processing floorings, methods of performing cosmetic repairs.

Signs of worn parquet

After prolonged use, the flooring becomes unusable and requires cosmetic repairs. In some cases, restoration of the coating is carried out before the expiration of the warranty period of the floor.

The reasons may be the following: the use of soft wood for the manufacture of flooring, which is installed in rooms with high traffic, poor quality installation work made without taking into account the requirements of technology, lack of proper care for parquet.

To find out the degree of wear, free the floor from all types of coatings and clean it from dirt. Parquet is restored by sanding in the following cases:

If visible only small scratches and cracks, marks from furniture and claws of pets.
Some of the dies have dried out and large gaps have appeared between them.
The varnish has faded and lost its original appearance.
The planks became loose and began to creak. In order to get rid of unpleasant sensation, fasten the parts to the base with self-tapping screws, recessing the head by 2-3 mm.
When you tap on the planks, a dull sound is heard, which means there is a void under the board. To get rid of it, drill a hole in the wood and fill the space underneath with glue using a syringe. You can also nail the dies or secure them with self-tapping screws.

Lay a long ruler on the floor and measure the gap underneath. If the gap is more than 2 mm, the planks in one area are worn out and require improvement. The simplest solution to the problem is sanding, but sometimes cosmetic repairs do not help.

It is useless to carry out work if the following defects are found:

If the lumber has dried out and large area Gaps of more than 5 mm appeared between the slats.
The plates swelled after getting wet. It is impossible to restore the original condition of the floor.
The coating has worn out only in one place, where it bears the maximum load. For example, near the threshold or in the middle of the room. If the height differences exceed 5 mm, the flooring is dismantled.
If there are deep potholes or uneven surfaces.
If the plates constantly get wet from below due to wet fumes. They are completely removed and the floor is waterproofed.
The tree is eaten away by borer beetles.
The room is damp, there is mold and rot.

Choosing a device for sanding parquet

Modern electrical devices reduce the time for surface treatment, but without hand tools for sanding parquet, it will not be possible to level the floor. For comfortable work, the master’s arsenal must have several working tools that differ in purpose and design.

Sanding machines for parquet processing

There are a huge number of types of grinding devices, all of them are used in certain cases.

Drum-type products are intended for peeling; they are not capable of creating smooth surface. The working tool has a cylindrical shape; an abrasive belt is fixed on it. The rigid design tightly presses the skin to the floor, which allows you to remove from 1 to 1.5 mm in one pass, depending on the diameter of the grain. During the procedure, a lot of dust is generated, so the devices are equipped with dust collectors.

Belt-type parquet sanding machines are used for preliminary sanding - leveling and cleaning. The surface is treated with an abrasive belt glued into a ring, which moves along two rollers like a conveyor. The productivity of the machine depends on the rotation speed of the working tool, from 150 to 500 rpm. Power consumption - 600-700 W. For the private sector, the recommended tape width is 75 mm.

Disk devices are used at the final stage of repair. In such devices, the plates are aligned with one or more flat abrasive wheels. When rotating, the discs eliminate defects remaining after pre-treatment and smooth the surface efficiently. Angle machines are used to process corners, and special devices are used to level areas under heating radiators and pipes, which, due to their specific shape, are called “boots”. In inconspicuous places, you can sand the parquet with a grinder to which a disk with sandpaper is attached.

Vibrating products are universal and can be used for coarse and fine grinding. In such machines, the floor is exposed to a flat platform measuring 100x200 mm with a fixed abrasive plate. The platform makes reciprocating movements and levels the flooring. For finishing processing, the base vibration amplitude is set to 1-2 mm, for rough processing - 5-6 mm. Power consumption - 150-300 W.

Eccentric devices combine the properties of vibration and disk machines. During operation, the tool vibrates and rotates at the same time, which ensures high performance and good processing quality. The product is used for rough and finishing grinding. The modes are regulated by changing the diameter of the circle, vibration and rotation speed.

When choosing parquet sanding machines, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Household devices have movable tools 7.5-10 cm wide and are designed for a processing area of up to 10 m 2. IN large rooms It is difficult to achieve good smoothness; it is necessary to use professional equipment with a sanding belt 20-25 cm wide. The disadvantage of such products is their large weight (more than 100 kg) and dimensions.
All units have a weak point - the sanding belt, which can be easily damaged by nails or other fasteners.
Household equipment consumes power within 1 kW, professional equipment - more than 2.5 kW. Not all electrical wiring is designed for such a load.
Choose devices with speed switches, RCDs, and limiters that will prevent damage to the wall during the operation.
The design of the devices should allow for quick replacement of sanding belts and good tension.
If the parquet is made of walnut or wenge, use only devices with a dust collector for sanding. Dust from such tree species has coloring properties, and it will be difficult to clean the walls.

Manual scraper for sanding parquet

The tool is designed for manual removal of old coating and rough sanding in hard-to-reach places. The device can replace drum-type products if the problem area small sizes. Due to the high labor intensity of the cycle, it is not used for working on large areas.

The parquet sanding tool looks like an iron plane with a hook-shaped blade. Cutting edge sharpened to a wedge from the outside. It is recommended to use factory-made devices, they have very sharp blades correct form. The most comfortable product has a wide handle. The ideal knife dimensions are 5 cm; for smaller dimensions you will need large quantity movements.

Abrasive belt for sanding parquet

The width of the tapes can be from 60 to 250 mm. Maximum size used in powerful professional devices. In household appliances, the most popular sizes are 75 and 100 mm. Very narrow blades (from 6 mm) are used in hard-to-reach places. The choice of skin is also influenced by the hardness of the dies and the properties of the type of wood from which they are made.

Used for work sandpaper various densities. It is impossible to change the order of application of abrasives, because... the next number removes the deeper scratches of the previous one.

Environment for using abrasive cloths with different grain sizes:

Abrasive No. 16 is designed to remove coatings created by drying oil or varnish.
No. 24 - for removing several layers of paint on uneven floors and for sanding old parquet.
No. 36, 40 - for removing paint and top layer on a flat floor. Sanding paper with such parameters is considered universal and is used more often than others.
No. 60 is a universal paper for deep processing of clean parquet or varnished flooring.
No. 80, 100, 120 are used for finishing smoothing of already sanded floors.

Instead of regular sanding paper, you can use linden - the same accessories, only with Velcro. They are easier to attach to the base of working devices.

Drum-type machines can be refilled with special tapes with an arrow on them. The sandpaper can only be inserted in the indicated direction.

Parquet sanding technology

Primary sanding is not a precision operation, but before sanding parquet, it would not hurt to study the instructions for using special equipment and coating processing technology.

Preliminary work before sanding parquet

Before sanding the parquet with your own hands, perform a number of operations to prepare the room and equipment for repair:

Completely remove furniture and other objects that will interfere with work from the room. Cover the remaining items with film to protect from dust.
Eliminate creaks and dips in floorboards.
Remove nails and screws and clean the floor from dirt. You can recess the fastener heads 2-3 mm into the wood.
Remove the baseboards.
Find out the power of the device and check whether there is an outlet in the room that matches the characteristics of the product.
Grinders are loud, so bring noise-protective headphones.
To prevent wood dust from entering your body, wear a respirator.
If you are planning a long procedure, wear thick gloves to prevent an allergic reaction.

Elimination of gross parquet defects

To eliminate gross defects, you can use a drum or belt type sander. Attach the moving part of the tool to the coarsest sandpaper, 16, 24, or 40, depending on the type of old floor covering.

At this stage, you can use a working tool of maximum width. Typically, machines for rough processing use a 20 cm wide belt. An abrasive with such characteristics will remove dirt, old varnish coating and the top weak layer of wood. It is capable of quickly cutting up to 5 mm of wood.

Before turning on, lift the device so that it does not make a hole in the floor. Press the “start” button and wait until the working element reaches the required speed. Start moving and lower the product at the same time. The device must also be turned off while moving in a raised position.

Monitor the operation of the electrical device:

Do not overload the device. Reducing the belt speed is not allowed.
When the power supply voltage decreases, reduce the abrasive load on the floor.
During operation, monitor the wear of the sanding paper and replace it in time.
Keep an eye on the electrical cables of the product that are lying on the floor.
Monitor the filling of waste bags. A large amount of chips and dust slows down the process.

Primary processing of parquet

Run the machine diagonally across the room, at a 45-degree angle to the wall, then turn around and re-work the same strip. Make sure that the device moves along the grain of the wood. At turning points, movement across the dies is possible. On artistic parquet Move the device around the perimeter of the room in a spiral.

If the product removes a small layer and the speed is low, adjust the pressure of the tape on the floor with a special screw.

Move the device 10 cm to the side and repeat the operation, during which half of the belt will sand the already treated area. After treating the entire floor, walk along it again, moving parallel to the walls. Hard-to-reach places are processed after leveling the main area.

Inspect the floor after sanding the parquet with sandpaper. If there are serious defects, such as cracks or dents, there is no point in continuing the work, the parquet should be replaced.

In inconvenient places, use angle grinders or “boots”. Make sure there are no steps on the parquet floor. If untreated areas remain in place of the baseboard, remove them by moving the device from the edge of the treated floor towards the wall.

Remove areas in the middle of the room using circular movements of the tool. The work continues until the entire floor is the same color. Place a long ruler on the base and check the quality of the surface. The gaps between the ruler and the flooring should not be more than 2 mm. Clean the surface from dust and debris with a vacuum cleaner.

Features of parquet scraping

If the area of complex areas is small, they can be processed in cycles without using electrical devices. Manual sanding of parquet near baseboards and corners is also performed in a similar manner. It is difficult to move the tool, but there is practically no dust and there is no need to spend money on renting special equipment.

Run a damp cloth over the parquet; the planks will become wet and softer. Take the scraper with both hands, press it against the parquet and move it towards you, removing the shavings. If burrs appear, start sanding on the other side of the plate.

Walk over the treated surface in the opposite direction. The next stripe must overlap the first. If there are fibers left on the wet floor, wait until it dries and sand again.

Finishing parquet

The next stage is removing deep marks and scratches from the flooring that were left behind by large abrasive grains. We work like this:

Use #60 abrasive paper first, then #80. Move the sander along the grain of the dies. If the parquet is laid in a herringbone pattern, the device should be moved diagonally.
To obtain a smooth, high-quality surface, use a disc sander with sandpaper No. 80 and No. 100. The procedure is carried out similarly to rough floor treatment. Replace discs as they wear out.
Go over the floor 3-4 times, each time with a higher number of abrasives.
Clean the surface thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner, even if the product has a built-in dust collector.
Seal large cracks and scratches with wood putty. You can add dust from the dust collector to the mixture, which will give the putty the color of the parquet.
Cover the entire floor with putty rubber spatula. After the solution has hardened a little, use an awl to imitate the joints of the dies.
After the putty has completely dried, go over the floor again along the grain with a #100 abrasive. The product should be set to minimum pressure. The process stops after achieving perfect smoothness. Make sure good quality can be done by running your hand over the surface of the flooring.
Hard-to-reach areas are treated with angle devices and machines with a retractable disk part.

How to sand parquet - watch the video:

The technology for polishing parquet is quite complex, but with good technical equipment and serious attitude the result will be excellent.

Parquet has been used as a floor covering for a long time. Having it in the house is not a cheap pleasure, but best material I can't find one for finishing the floor. It will last for decades if it is take proper care.

The maintenance process itself consists of two stages: sanding the parquet and covering it with a protective material, usually varnish. Grinding is not an easy procedure; it is performed mainly by professionals, but you can try and gradually do everything yourself.

Equipment

The main tool for sanding parquet is Sander.

It is presented on the market in several types, differing from each other in the working part:

drum type. The design uses two drums with abrasive material mounted on them;
tape It differs from the previous model in that it uses a fairly wide abrasive belt. This provides greater coverage of the grinding area;
disc or surface grinder. Typically used for grinding hard-to-reach areas (for example, under radiators) and for finishing floor. There are professional three-disc machines;
vibration This is a subtype of the disk model, but more universal. With its help you can carry out both rough and fine grinding;
eccentric Most modern look grinders that work quickly and efficiently due to a special design (displacement of the axis of rotation of the grinding body relative to the axis of the shaft);
corner This is a subtype of the disk model, which is used for processing hard-to-reach areas.

It should be noted that a grinding machine is expensive equipment. It is better not to purchase it for one-time use. Usually it is rented, fortunately this service is provided in many cities today. In addition to this apparatus, for sanding parquet you will need sandpaper, a vacuum cleaner, brushes and a roller.

Preparing the premises

First of all, the room must be cleared of furniture that is on the floor. Since there will be a lot of dust, it is advisable to cover everything that cannot be removed with film. Then the baseboards are removed. After that, it is necessary to examine the parquet floor itself for the strength of fastening of each block to the floor base. If such defects are found, they need to be repaired.

Usually the die is removed (it can be replaced with a new one if the old one turns out to have large defects), and the base under it is cleaned. And then they are laid on the adhesive composition.

If repair operations have been carried out, then it is necessary to give time for the installed elements to stick well to the floor.

First stage

The grinder is loaded with sanding tape or a disk is mounted. For the first pass, that is, roughing, you will need sandpaper with coarse grain. Typically material number 40 is used.

Note! The first pass is carried out along the wood fibers. This will ensure an even cut of the top layer without difficulty.

An important point is the correct setting of the working part of the machine. Or rather, its degree of pressure against the parquet. To do this you need to use a clamping screw. Here it is important to catch the golden mean: if you squeeze it, you get overheating of the device’s engine and a thick cut of the top layer flooring, they didn’t put the pressure on - they lowered the quality of parquet polishing.

Periodically you need to stop the machine to check the wear of the abrasive. A stop can only be carried out with a moving device; if the shutdown is carried out on non-moving equipment, then there is a high probability that a depression will appear on the floor where it stopped.

Sanding with coarse sandpaper should be carried out until the floor is completely level. You can move the machine for a new pass by half the width of the sanding drum.

Second phase

Before proceeding to the final sanding of the parquet, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the wooden dies. For this purpose, special acrylic-based putty solutions are used. After they have dried, you can proceed to the final treatment of the floor, which is based on the operations of smoothing out minor flaws remaining after the initial grinding.

To do this, you will have to change the abrasive material on the machine to a finer-grained one. Usually they use number 120 and make the first pass, removing small defects. The surface of the parquet can be brought to maximum smoothness using sandpaper number 150-180. For household use This optimal sizes, there is no point in using smaller ones. In this case, the transition from larger grains to small ones must be carried out smoothly.

Sanding hard-to-reach areas

This operation cannot be considered a separate stage. Sanding hard-to-reach places on the parquet is carried out in the same way as the main surface of the floor. That is, first an abrasive with large grains is used, then they are puttied, and lastly, finishing is done using a fine-grained abrasive material.

It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of work performed. First, the main surface of the parquet is sanded, then hard-to-reach areas. If it is not possible to grind some areas with machines, then you will have to do everything manually. To do this, use a scraper for the first stage and sandpaper mounted on a grater or other device for final sanding.

Varnishing the floor

The easiest way to check that a parquet floor is one hundred percent ready for varnishing is to run your palm over its surface. If your hand does not feel any flaws and feels the smoothness of the surface, then we can assume that the parquet is ready.

The next operation is dust removal, for which a regular vacuum cleaner is used. It must be noted that all models of modern grinding machines equipped with bags for collecting dust. But small particles of wood will still find their way out of the gaps and crevices, so that a thin layer of them will eventually settle on the floor. We need to get rid of him.

Now about varnishing the parquet. This stage is not easy, because the varnish is applied in several layers. In this case, it is necessary that each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next one. This may take at least 4-5 hours. But the longer the varnish dries, the better. The stages of coverage are as follows:

primer treatment;
after it dries, it is necessary to grind it using a diamond mesh number 220;
applying two layers of varnish, each of which is also sanded;
The last layer should dry well. After which it is additionally treated with a special gel, which fixes the varnish.

The process of applying varnish is done with a roller; in hard-to-reach places, a brush is used. There are several requirements for carrying out the varnishing process. Windows and doors in the room must be closed and drafts must not be allowed. Optimal temperature varnishing parquet: +22…25 ℃.

As for the choice of varnish, the market today offers several types, which are based on different raw materials: acrylic and urethane, linen and wood resins. The most environmentally friendly are water-soluble varnishes. Acid-curing and polyurethane varnishes are more durable.

It should be noted that resin-based varnishes are toxic and take a very long time to dry. Perfect option– water-soluble, but with a caveat: they can only be used in heated rooms.

When there is no point in sanding a parquet floor

There is no point in updating the coating only if it is badly damaged. Factors that make it impossible to sand parquet include:

flooding of the floor, due to which the wooden dies swelled and warped;
the parquet flooring has dried out to such a state that gaps larger than 5 mm have formed between them;
the floor is completely or partially covered with mold or fungi, it has been eaten away by wood-boring beetles;
large defects in the form of potholes, chips and cracks;
the parquet was worn out to such a state that the thickness of the tiles became less than 5 mm.

All these defects are the causes of improper or heavy use of the floor covering. Often the reasons are illiterate installation of the material and the use of low-quality parquet, for example from unseasoned wood.

Features of polishing parquet boards

It should be noted right away that to sand a parquet board with your own hands, you must already have some experience in handling sanding machines. The board is covered with decorative wood veneer on top, and it is important not to rub it through. Sanding for parquet boards is a gentle type of renovation, since it can be removed very thin layer material.

Note! It is not recommended to sand the parquet board of a floating floor yourself, as this can lead to the locks between the dies coming loose or the drum slipping.

It is also not recommended to process material coated with special protective layers of wear-resistant varnish, patina, or tinting. Sanding will damage the protection and it will be impossible to restore it. A simple, natural-colored board is sanded in the same way as parquet, but even more carefully and with more precise adjustment of the thickness of the removal of the top layer.