The dream of a city dweller is to buy a country house where you can relax from the hustle and bustle. Well, now you are the owner of the site and the most in demand part is the toilet. What if it’s not there?
But there is a way out - to build a toilet with your own hands, using improvised means, creating your own drawing. Provide comfortable living conditions with your own hands.
How to make a toilet in the country?
A string of questions immediately arises in my head: what drawing to choose, what design to give, what materials will be used. In this article we will reveal the basis and rules for developing your project.
Main types of booths
First, let's figure out what types of structures exist. The simplest type, built with cesspool.
But before we start, we take into account the sanitary standards that apply in Russia: think about the cleaning method and proper waterproofing. Check your neighbors' requirements to avoid conflict situations.
You can make a toilet in your country house using several options.
We list the types of buildings:
- Birdhouse - economical version with pitched roof located on the box. Summer option;
- The hut is a complex structure with a large selection of designs that retains heat in cold weather. Requires more material costs;
- Hut - simple form With gable roof, wind-resistant model;
- The house is a structure with increased strength, a warm option;
- Double rooms - complex construction with a second section;
- Toilet with shower - an additional extension for washing is attached to the main booth;
- A dry toilet can be installed even inside the house. Biotoilets are gaining popularity, since there is no special fuss with them.
There are three types of dry toilets: peat, chemical and electric models. This is the first aid option when construction is underway.
Then you can proceed to the major toilet with reliable septic tank, serving for years.
Where to start construction?
A summer resident needs a toilet that is hygienic, clean and pleasing to the eye, while respecting the environmental situation, neutralizing waste, and meeting the requirements for external design.
Capital septic tank with a complex of tanks in the ground
To do this, most often they make three concrete rings, which are immersed in the ground one by one. The upper ones become settling tanks, the third filters sewage that goes into the ground without causing harm to groundwater.
Such septic tanks contain anaerobic bacteria that process waste and neutralize harmful bacteria.
You are faced with the following tasks:
- choose a system for draining, draining and disposing of sewage;
- determine the location for the toilet and it is better to choose one remote from the house;
- decide which type of structure is suitable, discussed above;
- choose a design that you can make with your own hands;
- select suitable materials;
- determine the size of the toilet in the country;
- calculate construction cost estimates.
Decide for yourself how you will clean the waste pit if you do not install a septic tank. How can a sewage disposal truck arrive, pumping out sewage?
Have you decided and answered the questions? Now we can start construction, let's take it step by step.
Practice: start of construction
We have decided on the location and will select the desired design. Builders have already developed a certain gold standard of size, the ratio: 2.2x1x1.4 m.
Look at the photo of the country toilet. Having decided on the form, let’s prepare the necessary tools:
Note!
- hammer drill, which can be replaced with a crowbar, for breaking hard ground;
- a shovel, preferably with a short handle, so it’s easier to dig;
- container for waste pit, optimal capacity 200 l;
If you use electrical appliances, take care of the power source.
Make drawings of a country toilet or use the data in the drawing. Consider installing ventilation and insulation. Let's start construction with a waste pit.
First stage - pit
We will dig a deep waste pit for sewage. The standard shape is square, the depth is not less than 2 m. After digging, we must strengthen the walls; we can use reinforced concrete material, boards, or make masonry from stone or brick.
We ensure the bottom of the pit is airtight, fill it with crushed stone or make a concrete screed.
If there is a risk of contaminating groundwater, we will make the walls and bottom waterproof and seal it with special material.
Note!
Second stage - frame
The pit has been prepared, we will begin to build a protective external structure. The prepared frame must be secured; it is better to make it wooden. Let's make markings and drill holes in which we install support pillars. They will provide durability for future construction.
The foundation itself is necessary if you visit the country house all year round, to serve for a long time. First, it must be deepened, then bricks or blocks should be placed in the corners; waterproofing will be provided by a roofing material overlay.
Place the material between the prepared frame and the foundation. Immediately begin installing the bottom frame to prevent the roofing felt from drying out from the sun's rays.
Lay the floor, prepare the seat skeleton in place and attach it. Nail the façade frame to the posts. After covering the toilet seat, make a hole.
Now sheathe the facade of the toilet directly; you can choose lining, corrugated sheets, siding and other materials for this. Install the roof sheathing and place any slate or metal roofing on it.
Note!
Finish by hanging the door on hinges and wooden outdoor toilet almost ready.
The third stage - ventilation
To unpleasant odors didn’t bother you, we will develop a ventilation system in the toilet structure. For this we use a plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
Let's take tin clamps and pull it to the hole made in the roof of the building. The lower end of the pipe must be carried 15 cm into the waste pit, cutting a hole of the required diameter into the seat.
The deflector attachment will additionally help increase traction. There is nothing complicated in construction; anyone can build a simple toilet.
DIY toilet photo
No one will argue that such a primitive building as a country toilet is one of the main structures, the construction of which begins first. Agree that suburban area you can do without country house, gazebos or fences, but without a toilet in the country - nothing. A self-built country toilet will provide minimal comfort, which will allow you to fully relax and work.
Before you start earthworks, you need to study the sanitary and hygienic requirements and, in accordance with them, choose the installation location.
Features of country toilets
Installing a toilet in a country house is not difficult, but you can do it yourself without resorting to outside help. It is important to take into account some features of such construction:
- Mandatory compliance of the installation site with sanitary and hygienic requirements , presented to cesspools;
- You cannot allow a country toilet installed with your own hands to create inconvenience to neighbors ;
- At the beginning of construction there must be there is a method for emptying the cesspool ;
- The choice of toilet design directly depends on the water horizon of the site. If the groundwater level is low, the cesspool should only be of the sealed type .
By following our instructions, you will not only be able to properly build a country toilet with your own hands, but also save yourself from the problems associated with its operation.
Types of toilets for summer cottages
At your dacha you can build one of several toilet designs. The selection criteria can be both the height of the water horizon and the frequency of use of the closet, as well as the amount of financial costs that are planned for its construction and maintenance.
All existing outdoor latrines can be classified according to the method of waste disposal. Let's look at a few of the most popular designs.
Pit toilets for summer cottages
This is perhaps one of the most popular designs in rural farmsteads and summer cottages. It is not difficult to build a cesspool toilet with your own hands in the country, because the sewer system is an ordinary deep hole, in which liquid residues evaporate or are absorbed into the ground.
The depth of the pit directly affects the frequency of its cleaning, so it is not necessary to remove waste often. Most often, the hole is simply filled with soil and a new one is dug nearby. The above-ground structure can be anything - you can build a country toilet with your own hands from boards, bricks, slate sheets or metal profiles. The main thing is that the necessary strength of the frame is ensured and ventilation is present.
- Wooden toilet. The choice of such a design is justified by both the ease of construction and its low cost. Agree, build wooden toilet you can do it yourself with minimal skills. Wooden structure often stylized as fairytale house, having received not only a functional, but also an aesthetic structure. Often, clapboard, rather than boards, are used to cover the frame. Such a country toilet, built with your own hands, also looks stylish, as evidenced by numerous photos posted on the Internet. The most important advantage wooden building is that when the hole is filled, it is dug in another place, and the house is moved.
- Toilet made of metal profile sheets. There are two ways to install such a structure. In the first one they use wooden frame, and in the second - a base welded from profile metal pipes. Then the base is sheathed with slate sheets using self-tapping screws or rivets. It is not difficult to build a toilet from profile sheets with your own hands, but this design gets very hot in the summer at the dacha. It is best to install a metal closet in a constantly shaded place and line it from the inside with polystyrene foam sheets.
- Brick toilet. Before you build a brick toilet in your country house with your own hands, take a good look at the site, study existing projects, and watch the video. It will not be possible to move such a structure to a new location, so it is necessary to provide a method for cleaning the cesspool. Constructing brick building, do not forget about the need to install a concrete floor.
Backlash closet
This type of toilet resembles the design described above. Its special feature is the construction of a cesspool. Most often her walls and bottom are sealed so that when filling, waste can be pumped out using a sewer truck. Equipping this toilet in the country with their own hands, they dig elongated pit, for the smooth installation of sewer hoses. A huge disadvantage of backlash closets is the impossibility of cleaning them in winter period , therefore, if necessary, install a pit heating system.
Powder closet
This toilet has a small (maximum 20 l) container for collecting sewage, installed under the seat. After dealing with natural needs, the waste is covered with ash, sawdust or peat. To do this, install a box with these in the room. bulk materials. If you are interested in the question of how to make a toilet in the country, remember the disadvantages of powder toilets: pouring the contents of a sewer container into a compost pit with your own hands is not the most pleasant procedure. Let’s not keep silent about the huge advantage of such a closet - with proper ventilation it can be placed even in a country house.
Peat toilet for a summer residence
The peat toilet is a more advanced design of the powder closet. The peculiarity of the device is that there is no need for an additional box of peat - it is poured directly inside. After visiting a peat toilet, the waste is “powdered”, and after filling the sewer container, it is taken out and taken out.
Choosing a place to install the toilet
Our recommendations regarding choosing a site for future construction will help you build a toilet in your country house with your own hands:
- If you are planning a building equipped with a cesspool, then be sure to take into account the need for an access road for a sewer truck;
- The distance from the toilet to the water intake point should not exceed sanitary standard 25 meters, the distance to nearby buildings should be more than 5 meters, and to the border of the site - 1 meter.
- Be sure to study the wind rose map and take into account their direction.
- The toilet door should open in the direction opposite to the nearest boundary of the site.
Also, do not install the toilet in very remote areas or obstruct the access route. Provide free access to the structure.
We build a country toilet of the Birdhouse type with our own hands
The “birdhouse” is made of wood, covered with any available material, with a single or gable roof. This toilet is installed in conjunction with a cesspool. When arranging a country toilet of this type with your own hands, you can use ready-made drawings or create an individual project.
As standard project You can take the following dimensions for a Birdhouse toilet with a pitched roof:
- height back wall- 2 m,
- front - 2.30 m
- with a width of at least 1 m.
The dimensions of the base are at least 1x1m. When installing a wooden toilet with your own hands, it is mandatory control of horizontal and vertical surfaces using a building level.
So, we are building a Birdhouse toilet. For work you will need :
- Concrete border 2 m long - 2 pcs. or sand-cement blocks - 4 pcs.
- Ruberoid - 2 m2.
- Sand.
- Edged boards: 6000x100x50mm - 3 pcs., 6000x100x50mm - 1 pc., 6000x90x32mm - 3 pcs.
- Lining 3000x87mm - 40 pcs.
- Wooden beam 6000x50x50 - 1 pc.
- Galvanized steel profile sheet 1520x2000x0.4mm - 1 pc.
- Door block 900x2000mm
- Door hinges, latch, handle, nails, screws.
- Paint or varnish.
Let's describe toilet construction process at the dacha with your own hands step by step:
- Digging a cesspool size of at least 1x1x2 m. Remember that the dimensions of the toilet that you plan to install in your dacha with your own hands are determined by the dimensions of the pit. Place a layer of broken brick or crushed stone at the bottom of the hole.
- As the foundation of a house We install a concrete curb at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the edges of the pit as a ceiling. To do this, we dig it in so that the height of the concrete base above the ground is no more than 10-15 cm. Instead of a curb, you can dig four blocks of sand-cement mortar in the corners of the cesspool, on which we subsequently install the frame.
- Place it on a concrete curb roofing material in 3-4 layers as a moisture insulator.
- We build a wooden frame and cover it with boards, clapboard, etc. The toilet floor must be laid with boards at least 40mm thick. It is better to use hard wood - oak, beech, larch and others.
- Cut a hole in the floor up to 30cm in diameter. The shape of the “glass” can be arbitrary: oval, heart, rhombus, circle, etc.
- Installing the door and cut out a window of any shape in it for the passage of light.
- The roof of the house is covered with roofing felt, asbestos-cement or profile steel sheet.
- Painting the structure oil paint or varnish.
When arranging wooden country toilets with your own hands, do not forget to install simple ventilation. Its purpose is to remove air from the pit into the atmosphere. To do this, you can take any pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm. Then a hole of the required diameter is cut in the roof and podium of the toilet and the pipe is installed to a height of at least 20 cm above the roof. All passages of the hood are sealed, and a deflector is installed at its end, which will create the necessary draft.
You can do it yourself from the inside of the "Birdhouse" country toilet cover with foam plastic, and to decorate it beautifully with suitable material, just watch a video from the Internet and use ready-made ideas.
We build a “Shalash” type toilet with our own hands
Although the “Shalash” type toilet is more difficult to manufacture, it looks much more impressive than the “Birdhouse”.
Some craftsmen style a country toilet like a fairy-tale house, creating real masterpieces with their own hands. Photos of such buildings from the Internet amaze the imagination with their thoughtfulness and skill in execution. Well? Are we building such an original toilet in the country? Then we get down to business and start digging a cesspool. Its dimensions can be taken from the previous project. At the corners of the pit, a recess is dug in the ground for installing concrete blocks. To control squareness, not only the distance between blocks is measured. The diagonals of the base must also be the same.
When installing the foundation, control the horizontal position by placing a level strip on two adjacent blocks and a building level on top. The height of the concrete base should be no more than 15 cm above the surface of the site.
In order not to miss important details, install a country toilet with your own hands step by step :
- Place any moisture barrier on the improvised foundation. Roofing felt laid in 2-3 layers copes well with this function.
- A frame is assembled from 50x50mm timber base measuring 1x1m and nailed down with edged boards. On top of this “deck” there is a flooring made of floorboards.
- Cut a technological hole in the bottom. You can go beyond the circle and come up with an interesting “glass” shape.
- We coat the wooden base with an antiseptic from all sides. If, when installing a toilet in your dacha with your own hands, you are not sure of the correctness of your actions, study the instructions, in which all the processes are described step by step.
- Using a sketch or drawing, assemble the back and front parts.
- Sew both pieces“Hut” with clapboard inside.
- Install the back and front walls on the floor and fasten them with scraps of boards.
- Nail the sheathing boards. At the end of the work they also need to be sheathed.
- Take boards at least 1800 mm long and, leaning them on the back and front of the “Hut”, nail them to the slats. Thus, we get the roof of the house.
- The roof on our built In your dacha, you can install a toilet with your own hands by studying photos of similar structures or by putting your imagination to work. In principle, any material will do, but do we really need banality when we are creating a house from a fairy tale?
- Installing the skate, you can decorate it with a suitable figurine.
- We hang the doors, having previously provided them with a handle and a hook. WITH outside nail a pinwheel of any shape.
- Painting the toilet house oil paint or varnish.
When installing a toilet in your country house with your own hands, use your imagination or watch a video showing a gallery of toilet houses; don’t be afraid to experiment. Only in this case you will receive an elegant, exclusive structure.
Features of installing a peat toilet
The use of peat substrate for sprinkling waste is justified for several reasons.
- Firstly, peat perfectly absorbs unpleasant odors.
- Secondly, the increased hygroscopicity of the substrate contributes to increased absorption of liquid, which ultimately helps to increase the frequency of cleaning the toilet.
- Thirdly, after direct application, the mixture is used as a fertilizer, since peat is initially rich in bacteria that convert organic waste into compost.
A factory-made peat toilet does not require connection to an electrical network, water supply or sewerage system, so it is a truly autonomous design for a summer residence.
The operation of such a toilet is based on the separation of waste into solid and liquid fractions. If the device is expected to be used frequently, then removal of the purified liquid fraction is provided by drainage or a special hose. The solid fraction is located in the lower container and, if necessary, can be easily removed, since the container is easily removed and has handles for carrying.
The advantage of factory designs is that they are easy to maintain - just remove waste from the storage tank, rinse the container and add substrate.
Easiest to buy finished device. For those who want to save money, we will tell you how to make a toilet in the country with your own hands. To do this you will need several boards, a sheet of plywood, nails and screws, as well as a toilet seat. So, let's describe it step by step, how to build a peat-type country toilet with your own hands :
- Assembling the box, connecting four boards with self-tapping screws. We make a cutout in the front part of the structure for easy installation of the container.
- Sew up the top side of the box plywood sheet , having previously cut a hole in it for a bucket.
- We screw the legs to the corners of the box in such a way that the waste container can be easily replaced.
- Installing the structure on the legs and attach a seat to the functional hole (can be factory made of plastic or wood).
- Place a plastic bucket under the hole with a layer of peat previously poured to the bottom up to 5 cm.
- If you plan to place a peat toilet in an open space, then build a house, for example, the same “Shalash”.
We specifically do not give the dimensions of the toilet, which is intended for DIY installation in the country. It is so simple that even a schoolchild can repeat the design. Let me just give some recommendations :
- Stock up on several buckets with lids. This makes the toilet easier to use.
- Empty the bucket when waste is no more than one-third full.
- Add composting bioaccelerators to peat.
- Use factory filler.
- Place the extracted waste in a compost heap and after the required time has passed, you can use it as fertilizer for garden crops.
We hope that our instructions, which describe step by step how to install a country toilet with your own hands, will help you solve one of the primary problems that arise when developing a country plot.
The most important criterion for choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence is the level of groundwater in the area. If the groundwater is deep (deeper than 2.5-3.5 m), especially if the water does not rise above two meters from the surface of the earth even during heavy rains, any of the above types of toilets is possible. When groundwater levels are high, this is exactly what we usually have in areas middle zone– the water is close to the surface, a classic toilet with a cesspool is unacceptable.
When groundwater stands above 2.5 m, the preferred option is a powder closet or backlash closet, as well as a bio- or chemical toilet. Since these structures have a sealed cesspool, waste does not fall into groundwater and are safe in an epidemiological sense. Let's take a closer look at each of the options.
| Toilet type | Description |
| Classic "country" toilet with pit cesspool (1) | This is a cesspool one and a half meters deep, on top of which there is a corresponding “house”. Everything that falls into the pit accumulates there, gradually decomposing. This toilet is not suitable for big family, because it will fill up too quickly, and the sewage will not have time to ferment. The situation is resolved in two ways: either the toilet is moved to another place by burying a filled pit, or the cesspool is cleaned - manually or using a cesspool truck. |
| Powder closet (2) | Suitable for areas with high groundwater levels. There is no cesspool here. Its role is played by a sealed container installed under the seat. After each trip to the toilet, a new portion of sewage should be covered with peat, ash or sawdust. When the container is full, its contents are taken out into the compost pit, sprinkled with peat. |
| Backlash closet (3) | This type of toilet is suitable for being in the home. This is a structure equipped with a sealed cesspool (next to the outer wall). It is cleaned using a sewer machine. Thus, the pit itself is located outside the house, and all waste enters it through a pipe. The pit should slope away from the house. |
| Dry toilet | This is the same booth that stands on city streets with a container that contains active microorganisms that process waste. Buy such a toilet - there are any sizes on sale, dry closets suitable for home and outdoor use. |
| Chemical | Essentially the same dry closet, but with a different waste processing technology. Chemicals are used - the contents of the toilet (unlike the dry closet) become unsuitable for use as fertilizer in beds and flower beds. |
| Peat toilet (4) | This is the same powder closet, only of a more modern design. Suitable for home use. This is just a toilet, in the tank, instead of water, there is dry peat, and the role of sewer pipes is played by a waste container. The design provides ventilation - it is taken to the open air. |
Construction of a toilet in the country: according to the law and in harmony with the neighbors
There are clear standards for the placement of a country street toilet. This is especially important for those structures that involve contact of sewage with soil and groundwater. According to sanitary requirements, to any source of water (well, well, river, lake, stream, etc.) must be more than 25 m.
The door to the toilet should not be located on the side of the neighbors.
On a note
When building a toilet, it is better to take into account the directions of the winds that are most frequent in your area: unpleasant odors should not bother the neighbors.
When your summer cottage is located slightly downhill, the toilet should be lower than the source clean water- this way waste will not get into the water.
Concerning country house and neighbors' buildings
- The toilet must be at least 12 m away from residential buildings, cellars, and basements.
- From the building of a bathhouse, sauna, shower - at least 8 m.
- From enclosures for keeping animals, poultry houses, etc. - no less than 4 m.
- From trees and bushes - no less than a meter; at the same distance - from the fence enclosing your summer cottage.
Do-it-yourself toilet - do-it-yourself powder closet
Building a classic “village” toilet is not at all difficult and even a novice builder can do it. Therefore, let's focus on the device more modern design- powder closet.
Pros of powder closet:
- This design does not include a cesspool, which simplifies its construction. No need to dig a pit.
- A powder closet can be erected next to residential buildings.
- Groundwater is not polluted.
The beginning of any construction is a drawing, since all parts must have precisely calculated dimensions. They should be such that the toilet is easy to use. Thus, the minimum width of the building must be at least 1.5 m, depth - at least a meter, height - 2.2 m. The dimensions can be large, but making them smaller is not advisable. Now it’s time to decide on the building material. Most often, country toilets are made of wood. But you can build a brick toilet, cover the walls with metal profiles or slate.
Foundation: laying the foundation of the toilet
The toilet is a lightweight building that does not require a strong, solid foundation. It is often poured under the country toilet strip foundation– the base is poured only around the perimeter of the walls. When creating a strip foundation for any building, a trench is dug, it is brought above the zero mark and filled with cement mortar. The role of waterproofing is performed by roofing felt. The foundation is filled with crushed stone, rubble stone, gravel, broken brick. Layers of coarse sand and gravel are poured into the trench; each layer should be compacted and watered. The foundation is poured at ground level cement mortar. The base is made of brick and insulated with a layer of roofing felt. A blind area must be made on the outside of the foundation.
But it is much easier to make the simplest foundation for a wooden toilet: either bury supports (concrete pillars, timber or logs), or make a foundation from concrete blocks or bricks laid out along the perimeter of the building.
Operating procedure
- The first stage is marking the site for future construction. We accurately mark the corners of the future building.
- We bury supports as a foundation. We will need four asbestos-cement pipes, their diameter is about 150 mm. The outside should be coated with bitumen mastic.
- Some types of soils do not have the necessary characteristics for construction: strength, low compressibility, etc. Peat soils usually compress when loaded, clay soils swell, and forest-like soils can settle under the weight of the building in spring and autumn. Before starting construction, if you are building a brick toilet, such soils require a number of drainage measures or replacement of unsuitable soil for construction. To check, it is enough to dig a hole in the place where the building will stand, with a depth of 0.5 to 1.5 m, and look at the composition of the soil. Most the best option for construction - if your soil is based on fine-grained compacted sand.
- 4 deep wells (about 70 cm) should be dug in the corners of the future building. The pipes are buried into the ground to this depth. Although in general, the depth to which the pipes need to be buried will depend on the structure of the soil. On some soils it may be necessary to bury the pipes by 90-100 cm.
- Next, the pipes are filled with concrete mortar to a third of the height. The concrete is compacted to remove air bubbles. Support poles, most often wooden, are inserted inside the pipes and secured with concrete mortar.
- The pillars are fixed so that they protrude to a height of 2.3 m from the ground. The location of the pillars should be level relative to the corners.
The simplest option for a toilet foundation
For light wooden construction, it is enough to simply install concrete blocks or bricks. The frame will be placed on them. This “foundation” is done like this: upper layer The soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm and compacted tightly. A layer of sand is poured into the bottom of the trench, and concrete blocks or bricks are placed on top.
We are building a toilet frame
The frame of a country toilet is made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 50 x 50 mm or 80 * 80 mm. Sometimes they take thicker timber (100 * 100 mm) or even thicker, but this is not advisable. More will be needed metal corners. The frame consists of 4 load-bearing supports installed vertically. We also need lining for the roof of our building.
Roof trim: horizontal bars protrude beyond the body by a distance of about 40 cm. A canopy is formed in front, and a ledge in the back for draining rainwater.
We're sitting well
The correct height of the toilet seat is the key to ease of use of the toilet. A seat that is too high will be uncomfortable for children and short people, while a seat that is too low will cause discomfort for tall family members. It is necessary to take into account at what level the floor in the toilet will be located - 40 cm upward is set aside from this height. And keep in mind that there will also be sheathing on top of the trim (about 20 mm wide).
It should be taken into account
- The screed is at the level of the toilet seat, which will appear later. The beams of this harness are installed in space against the vertical supports of the frame. The height of the toilet seat to the toilet floor should be 40-45 cm.
- For the strength of the frame, diagonal jibs are also made on the back and side walls. The frame for fastening the door consists of 2 vertical supports about 1.9-2 m high and a horizontal bar at this height.
On a note
Often, slate or corrugated sheets are used to build a country toilet. They are easier to work with, but it will be uncomfortable in such a toilet. Wooden walls allow air to pass through it, providing natural ventilation.
Toilet frame trim
The walls of the country toilet are covered with wooden boards, the thickness of which should be from 20 to 25 mm. They are fitted tightly and nailed to the frame supports. It is better to place the boards vertically, with the top of the back wall and side wall sheathing boards carefully cut to match the slope of the roof (since in this design the roof will slope towards the rear wall). There is usually a door in the back wall of the powder closet through which the waste container is taken out. The hinged door has a height of 40 to 45 cm (it is made to the height of the toilet seat).
We cover the toilet roof with our own hands
The roof of such a structure is usually covered with either corrugated sheets, slate, or metal tiles. Wooden roof covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.
The toilet roof is made so that there is a hole in it for ventilation pipe. The pipe should be sealed.
Making a toilet door
The door is made of wood and hung on two or three hinges, depending on how heavy the door is. The door is also equipped with a latch, hook or latch on the outside and inside. A small window is usually made above the door to allow light to enter. Thrifty owners usually glass the window.
If you make the size of the toilet house large enough, you can even hang a washbasin in it.
Seat: the most important thing
What to make the seat and toilet seat of the powder toilet from? These can be boards, lining, moisture-resistant plywood. It's best to stop at wood paneling frame of the toilet seat, the boards must be painted, a hole must be cut and an appropriate container containing 20-40 liters must be installed under the toilet seat. It is better to make the lid of the toilet seat hinged, securing it on hinges. In addition, you should find a place in the toilet for a container of peat (you can hang it on the wall) and a bucket for used toilet paper.
Toilet with a barrel
From wind and rain
The roof is built after the walls are completely sheathed. Fix it along the line of the upper slope, checking the correspondence of the angles of the slope on adjacent surfaces. He must
Since at the stage of roof construction the building is still weakly secured, when working at height, just a ladder is not enough; additional insurance is needed. For example, using a reinforced stepladder.
be 30 degrees. Having installed the roof, sew up the back wall. Careful owners also hem overhangs.
The roof in this design is covered with boards. The thickness of the board is at least 20 mm. You can fasten the roof sheathing boards to the rafters with ordinary nails - there will be no special load-bearing load on a small roof.
The roof is covered with roofing material - use ondulin, metal tiles or roofing felt.
It is not advisable to cover the toilet roof with slate - such a covering greatly increases the wind load on the building.
Final check
An important stage of work is the final check. The degree of tightening of all screws, the verticality of the walls and the horizontalness of the floor are checked.
- If there are violations, you can correct the structure by adding gravel under the foundation, installing spacers, etc.
- The base of the toilet should be carefully secured; for this purpose, another fastener is placed at the bottom of the foundation. The support columns on the sides are concreted, finally securing the structure.
- Be sure to check your work for any through holes inside, on the back of the roof and walls. These sharp tips on nails and screws can cause serious injury to people.
And finally, the interior decoration of our building. It begins, of course, with cutting out a hole. First of all, a niche is cut out in the floor of the toilet along the perimeter of the buried barrel (manual, circular saw, jigsaw, etc.). The upper part of the niche is hemmed with a 25 mm board. The niche should be exactly in the center, 200-250 mm from the back wall of the toilet, and its dimensions should be at least 450 x 450 mm.
Summer residents decorate the “house” at their own discretion. The main thing is not to overload it with decorative details, because the structure is quite fragile. The simplest option is to sheathe the perimeter of the front side with a decorative platband.
Reliable protection
Wood impregnation is applied after completion of the main construction work. The choice of impregnations today is very large.
- The wood should be impregnated with an antiseptic; this will protect the wooden parts from mold, fungi, and organic formations. After all, the toilet is an unheated room.
- All wooden parts should be protected from rotting. In conditions of high humidity, rotting can destroy a structure in just two to three years.
- Fire-resistant coating is very important. A cigarette carelessly thrown away in the toilet can cause a fire in this wooden structure.
- And another function of impregnating and painting a toilet is decorative.
Hanging the toilet door
You can make the door yourself or reuse an existing one. In any case, it also needs to be applied protective impregnations. The door is installed on hinges that are pre-lubricated with any solid lubricant (solid oil, for example), which will protect metal parts from the appearance of rust.
Toilet lighting
Before the final finishing of the interior decoration of our house, we should take care of lighting. When carrying out electrical installation work, it is necessary to take into account that the toilet is a structure with high humidity. Based on this, we comply with the following standards:
If there are children in the family
Let's say we use LED lights voltage 12 or 36 Volts. A voltage converter is installed at the beginning of the power supply line, and the switch will be built into the design of the lamp. If there are children in the family, then such a safe lamp can be installed at a low height.
- There should be no more than five meters from the power line support to the toilet.
- The power cable is installed using a mast with a height of at least 250 cm; in this case, the mast must be securely fastened to the rear wall of the toilet.
- Grounding installation is required.
- Inside the building, the cable is laid in an open way; its cross-section must be at least 0.75 square meters. mm.
- The lamp power should not exceed 40 W. It is safest to use energy-saving lamps. The design of the lamp itself must be intended for use in rooms with high humidity.
- The light switch should not be located inside the toilet. It is installed on a special panel at the beginning of the power supply line. It could be distribution board, or the switch can be installed inside a permanent structure.
Mounting the seat
First of all, we need to make a so-called podium. You will need bars measuring 30 * 60 mm, as well as self-tapping screws at least 70 mm long, which will connect these bars into the podium structure.
The niche opposite the cesspool should remain free - this will allow the barrel to be cleaned in a timely manner, and such a toilet will last much longer.
The created structure is sheathed with sheet material, which must be durable (plywood, chipboard, OSB boards). The front wall is covered with a rectangle the right size. Secure it with self-tapping screws.
The upper part of the podium - mark a strip of sheet material that will go around the vertical posts of the wall frame. They cut out a rectangular part, and then mark the grooves, the location and size of which correspond to the racks.
On the top part we install a toilet seat, closed with a lid.
For aesthetics, to inner space the podium was hidden from view, install a simple device inside - a plastic box without a bottom or lid.
Interior decoration of a country toilet
If you used to build a toilet quality materials, the inside of the toilet does not need to be painted. It is enough just to etch the boards with a protective coating.
The floor and podium are painted with weather-resistant dyes.
Building door and external walls However, it is better to protect it by painting. The surfaces are first cleaned of old paint, if any, and sanded.
DIY backlash closet
How to organize a sewer system
You can make a pressure or gravity sewer. This depends on the characteristics of each individual summer cottage. With pressure sewerage, waste is supplied using special fecal pumps; with gravity sewerage, it leaves by gravity.
When installing a gravity sewer, it is very important to maintain the slopes correctly. The slope must be the same throughout, and then the length of the sewer pipe can be any.
On a note
Very often they make the slope as large as possible, believing that this way the waste will flow out faster. This is mistake. If the slope is too steep, liquid leaks out faster, solid waste is retained, and the pipes become clogged. Also, the flow of air to the surfaces of underfilled pipes leads to corrosion and a decrease in their service life.
Pressure sewerage is installed if it is impossible to maintain a sufficient slope angle. This could be when, for example, that By the way
Drainage slope
For novice builders, the difficulty lies in the fact that the unit of measurement of slope adopted in the construction literature is unusual for them - this is decimals type 0.03 or 0.008. This fraction is the ratio of the height of descent to the length of the pipe. For example, 3 cm by 1 m, or 0.8 cm by 1 m. The length of the sewer pipe in meters, when multiplied by the slope, will give the total height of the slope along its entire length.
Polypropylene pipes (they do not deform at high and low temperatures and are easy to install) are assembled starting from the bottom, inserting each subsequent one into the socket of the previous one. In places of turns and at the bottom of risers, special inspection pipes are required. The joint between a polypropylene pipe and a cast iron pipe is made using a rubber cuff.
When installing pressure sewerage, the pipes are connected by welding. The diameter of such pipes depends on the requirements of the pump and ranges from 20 to 40 mm.
The outer part of the sewer is placed in a trench. The depth of the trench should be below the soil freezing level. Pipes for external sewerage are made of cast iron, ceramic or asbestos, but they can also be plastic if they are laid in places where there is no increased load. The pipes must slope towards the drain.
When installing a toilet, remember that its outlet should not be lower than the neck of the pipe. In this case, it is raised using bricks and cement. The toilet outlet is placed on the cuff with a seal, and the cuff itself is inserted into the pipe.
On a note
If necessary, it is better to place 2 elbows at 45° than one at 90°. This way the flow of drains will not slow down.
The toilet is located below ground level.
A fecal pump is needed here. Purchasing one is not a problem; summer residents are offered a wide range of models that differ in power, distance, method of pumping waste (vertically or horizontally), etc.
The final chord: what to do with the “good” from the toilet
Dacha sewer system divided into two types
| Hermetically sealed cesspool | Such a pit is reliably isolated, and it does not pose an environmental hazard. Sewage with a cesspool requires regular cleaning as the tank fills. This should be taken into account when choosing a place to place it: a sewage disposal truck should freely approach such a pit. A cesspool is undesirable if groundwater lies at a distance closer than 3.5 m from the surface. It should be located no closer than 30 m from the nearest well. And, preferably, no closer than 15 m from the country house. The walls of the cesspool should not allow water to pass through. To do this, it is concreted or filled with cement mortar. If the depth of the hole depends on the groundwater level, then the width is not limited. |
| Septic tank – wastewater treatment system | Such a system collects all waste from summer residents into a special tank called a sump. It provides mechanical cleaning. Modern devices are equipped with a biofilter. Purified water is discharged to a place remote from the dacha area. A septic tank is used to bring waste products to an environmentally safe state. There are two types of septic tank: storage and purification. A storage septic tank requires periodic cleaning. It is equipped with fill level sensors. A storage septic tank is purchased based on the volume required for the family. The volume is calculated from the daily water consumption at the dacha. One person consumes from 50 to 250 liters per day. It is better to purchase a storage septic tank “with a reserve”. You should also take into account the material of manufacture and the thickness of the walls, since the septic tank is buried in the ground. A cleaning septic tank consists of several chambers where waste is completely cleaned. |
Shower and toilet in the country: for beginner builders
Even if in your life you have never built anything more complicated than a stool, you can build a toilet and shower in your summer cottage.
STEP 1. cesspool
It is better to seal the walls of the cesspool by providing a hatch for pumping out waste.
- First we clean construction site from roots, trees, bushes and debris. For a family of 3-4 people, we dig a hole one meter wide, 120 cm long, 200 cm deep.
- The earth should not crumble into the hole and clutter the construction area. Fertile layer on garden wheelbarrow we take it to the garden, the clay away from our plot.
- We strengthen the walls of the resulting pit. We take flat sheets of slate measuring 1 * 2 m and cut them with a grinder to the size of the walls. We lower the sheets down and secure them in the hole using reinforcement corners. For this purpose, we punch holes in the slate and hammer the corners into the wall of the pit.
- The gaps between the walls of the pit and the slate should be sealed using reinforcement rods. We lay the rods in the cracks, then lay sheets of roofing felt for waterproofing, then fill in the cement mortar.
- We place a sheet of iron at the bottom of the hole: this way the earth will be sealed from impurities.
- For now, we cover the finished pit with polyethylene from dampness and precipitation, and we ourselves begin to build a columnar foundation.
STEP 2. FILLING THE FOUNDATION
It is economical to combine a shower and toilet for a summer house in one building. The parameters of such a building are: width one and a half meters, length 3 meters, height 2 m 20 cm. Thus, the premises will have an area of 1.5 by 1.5 m. However, for a family of three people, a building area of 1.2 for a shower and toilet is enough * 1.2 m.
On a note
It is very important to spread the slate sheets with wooden blocks before pouring the solution.
- The building will be wooden, which means that the foundation will be columnar, light, and 80 cm deep.
- We cut 16 wooden stakes and mark the location of the future foundation. Along the perimeter of a rectangle with parameters 150 by 300 cm, we install 14 stakes every 75 cm. We also place pegs in the far corners of the pit: there will be a hatch through which the cesspool will be cleaned in the future.
- Check the location and verticality of the pegs. There should be equal spaces between the stakes, all angles should be 90°.
- To drill holes, it is best to use a garden drill with an auger with a diameter of 13 cm. We make 16 holes. We equip each pit with wooden formwork, the height-length-width of which is 20 x 20 * 20 cm. Using a building level, we level the formwork horizontally.
- We insert three reinforcing rods into each hole, which are fastened together with wire - this way the foundation will be reliable. We place rolled up roofing material at the bottom of the hole so that the concrete is isolated from the soil.
- We fill the recesses with cement mortar. Fine crushed stone is often added to cement, based on the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone 1: 3: 5. We level the solution onto the formwork.
- We place a metal pin with a diameter of about 10 mm in the center of each hole. We deepen the stud by 12 cm so that 8 cm remains above the cement level.
- While the cement hardens, we prepare a wooden beam for constructing the frame.
STEP 3. CONSTRUCTION OF THE FRAME
We will need a beam, the side of which will be equal to 10 cm. When the cement has hardened, it is time to remove the formwork and make the lower frame of the foundation.
- Using a chainsaw, we cut off the beams along the length of the sides of the future building and connect them together in half a tree. That is, 5 cm of the thickness of the beam is cut out on each side, and so the beams are connected to each other according to the principle of a puzzle.
- We drill holes into which the studs protruding from our columnar foundation will go.
- We lay the ceiling, securing it with a washer and nut with a spanner.
- Don’t forget to lay roofing material under the timber for waterproofing.
- The lower frame is ready: the beams lie on the posts, fastened with studs and nuts. After that wooden beams harnesses cover protective composition from external influences.
- Above the pit (there will be a floor and a “podium” seat) two metal channels are laid for strength.
- Part of the cesspool outside the perimeter of the walls is covered with planks and protected with moisture-proofing material. In the future, the drainage machine hose can be inserted by removing several boards.
- We begin to install vertical pillars. Their height is equal to the height of the future building - 220 cm. The first pillars are installed in the corners of the building, checking the correctness of their installation at the building level.
- We connect the vertical pillars of the frame to the lower frame using metal plates and corners for fastening. For reliability, we install spacers at the base of the pillars, securing them with long-length self-tapping screws.
- We install the next two pillars where the doors will be. Their height is 200 cm, the width between them is 80 cm. Above the door at a height of two meters we strengthen the spacer horizontally. And the remaining 20 cm between the doorway and the ceiling will subsequently be glazed. We also secure these pillars using spacers secured with long self-tapping screws. When the pillars are installed, you need to do top harness: the beam is also connected in half a tree.
- The entire structure is treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent wood rotting.
🔨 Country toilet It’s not difficult to do it yourself if you put in some effort and effort. We have selected drawings with dimensions for popular country toilets that will serve you for decades! Also in the article you will find step-by-step photo instructions for the construction of a country toilet.
The most labor-intensive stage in the process of constructing a latrine will be digging a pit, but this work can be done. The aesthetic side of the building is a secondary issue; the most important thing is to properly arrange the cesspool and create a reliable foundation for the above-ground structure.
It should be noted that some owners of suburban areas do not build a toilet according to the rules and make do with an ordinary bucket placed under the toilet seat. But, one way or another, waste needs to be disposed of somewhere, so you still can’t do without a capital pit. Therefore, it is better to do all the work correctly once and long years do not return to this issue. It is especially important to make a permanent structure if the residents spend a significant part of the year at the dacha.
When If If you don’t want to spoil the design of the site by installing it, you can hide it in the far corner behind the house, or come up with a design for it that will help the building organically fit into the landscape.
Choosing a toilet location and its design
Usually the toilet is installed closer to the far boundary of the site, and this is understandable, since even a slight smell will be present in this room or near it. But sometimes they use another option, installing a cesspool next to the house, and setting aside a free corner of the house for the toilet, leading a wide sewer pipe into the pit. This design is mainly used in cases where water is supplied to the house, and there are plans to install an insulated container for collecting waste.
In any case, you should adhere to the standards established by the sanitary and epidemiological services. They must be followed in order to protect yourself, your neighbors and environment from undesirable consequences such as infectious diseases or soil contamination.
- If a cesspool is installed, it must be located at a distance of at least 30 m from water sources, and its depth should not reach groundwater.
- If a septic tank is installed, it should be located no closer than 15 m from the house.
- If you plan to use an insulated container that will be cleaned as it fills sewage treatment plant machine, it can be installed anywhere, since waste will not enter the ground.
An insulated container is also a way out in cases where the groundwater does not run too deep and constructing a cesspool dug in the ground is impossible.
Typically, the pits of the simplest country toilet have an area of about one square meter. If the hole is round, then its diameter should be approximately 1 m. Its depth is 1.5-2 m, depending on the depth of groundwater.
Once the location for the pit has been determined, you can proceed to choosing the design of the toilet.
- The first thing to consider is the weight of the structure - it will largely be determined by the material that is planned to be used for construction. The house itself should not be too heavy, since over time the soil under its weight may begin to sag and, in the end, the building will become deformed and damaged.
Good for construction wooden blocks and boards, or thin metal - galvanized profiles and corrugated sheets.
If you decide to build a toilet booth from logs or bricks, then you will have to think about a well-fortified foundation. But there is absolutely no point in building such heavy buildings, since they still will not become warmer than light buildings. It's better, if necessary, thermally insulate room with insulation that is light in weight, for example, polystyrene foam. Such a building will be light and warm, not drafty in the cold season, and it will not be excessively hot in the summer.
- Having decided on the material, you can move on to the size of the booth.
Typically, a standard toilet has a width of 1 m, a height of 2.3 m, and a room length of 1.3 ÷ 1.5 m. However, these dimensions are by no means a dogma and may well vary. In any case, the room should be comfortable for any family member to be in, both standing and sitting.
What is needed to build a toilet
Having decided on the design and placement of the toilet, purchase necessary materials for its construction. A wooden or metal “house” can be purchased already in finished form. If you decide to build it yourself, you will need the following materials:
- Boards and wooden blocks.
- Fasteners - nails and screws.
- Metal corners to strengthen the structure of a wooden frame.
- Door handle, hook or latch for closing the door.
- Roof covering material – slate or corrugated sheet.
- Plastic or wooden toilet seat with a lid.
- At necessary - polystyrene foamst for insulating the booth, and material for internal lining insulated walls, chipboard, thin board or plywood.
To install a cesspool you will need:
- Cement, crushed stone, sand.
- Reinforcement for strengthening the foundation of the house.
- A metal mesh netting for covering the pit and metal brackets or pins for attaching this mesh to the ground.
Another option, instead of using a mesh and plastering it with concrete, could be brick, which is used to line the walls of the pit.
In addition, pits with holes in the walls are often used to construct pits. Many summer residents prefer old rubber tires of large sizes.
Another, most environmentally friendly option, could be ready-made capacity- septic tank. They are produced in different sizes, so you can choose the one you need, depending on the number of family members and the length of the period of residence at the dacha.
Naturally, when building a country toilet you cannot do without tools, so you need to have:
- A hand drill that can help when digging a pit.
- Shovel and bayonet shovel, with a long and short handle.
- If the soil in the area is rocky, you may need a hammer drill.
- Hammer and screwdriver.
- The grinder is a grinder with discs for stone and metal.
- Jigsaw.
- Marking tool - ruler, tape measure, square, building level, pencil or marker.
Prices for popular septic tanks
Construction of a cesspool
Classification of toilets by type of waste disposal
Of course, they always start with marking and digging a hole. It will have a square or round shape, depending on the chosen design.
1. If a two-chamber plastic septic tank is installed, then the hole is dug in such a way that the inlet pipe is located directly in the toilet stall, since the toilet seat will be mounted on it. The neck of the second chamber should remain outside the room - it is needed for regular pumping of accumulated fecal matter.
Tanks come in different shapes, and the dimensions and shape of the pit will depend on this. The size of the pit should be made 20-30 cm larger than the existing container, since the soil around it needs to be compacted well.
2. If the walls of the pit will be finished with concrete or brick, it can be made round or square.
- After digging a hole of the required depth, at its bottom you need to arrange drainage from large crushed stone, stones, and fragments of bricks
- Then, its walls are covered with a metal chain-link mesh with cells measuring 50 × 50 mm. The mesh is secured by driving steel wire or pins into the ground.
- To make the walls stronger, you can additionally reinforce the walls with a metal grid with large cells 100 × 100 mm.
- Next, using the casting method, a concrete solution is applied to the walls, which is left until completely dry. The total thickness of the concrete layer should be about 50 ÷ 80 mm.
- After the first sketched layer has set, the walls are plastered until smooth with the same concrete solution. The plastered pit is left to dry.
- Cover the pit or finished iron concrete slab, or manufactured locally. It will serve as a foundation for the toilet and a platform around it.
- Boards are laid on the pit, which should extend beyond its limits by 700 ÷ 800 mm and be recessed into the ground to the same level as the ground. Boards must be treated with antiseptic agents. This wooden base for the foundation can be completely replaced with concrete pillars.
- Two holes are left on the surface for installing a toilet seat and for a cesspool, which should later be covered with a lid. Formwork is installed around future holes.
- A thick polyethylene film is spread over the entire area of the future foundation.
- A reinforcement grid is laid on top of it, which is enclosed in formwork around the entire perimeter of the future foundation.
- The height of the formwork of the holes should be the same as that of the formwork of the entire foundation. The formwork boards will serve as beacons when leveling the surface.
- The concrete solution is mixed, poured onto the site, leveled and left to dry. For the durability and strength of the outer concrete layer, after initial setting, it is possible to “ironize” the wet surface with dry cement.
- Once the site is fully matured, it will be possible to install a toilet booth on the finished site. A hatch must be installed on the hole intended for pumping out accumulated waste. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. The hatch cover should open and close easily.
3. Another option would be a round pit with car tires. But it should be noted that this type of cesspool is not suitable for permanent use. Such a toilet can only be used in dacha conditions, when residents come only sporadically, for example, on weekends, otherwise the collected waste will have to be pumped out very often.
- To construct a cesspool of this type, a round pit is dug 150 ÷ 200 mm larger than the diameter of the existing tires.
- A drainage layer 15-20 cm thick is laid at the bottom of the pit.
- Then the tires are placed exactly in the middle of the pit. on to the other to the ground surface.
- Around the tires, as they are laid, drainage from crushed stone and sand is filled and compacted. This process is carried out all the way to the top.
- When the tires are completely laid, a shallow strip foundation can be built around the hole. To do this, a trench about 500 mm deep is dug along the perimeter of the future toilet, into which concrete will be poured.
- Trench bottom compacted and covered with a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm, which also compacted and covered with a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.
- Waterproofing made of dense polyethylene is installed.
- You can do this in two ways:
- weld and install the reinforcing grid, install the formwork with a height of 100 ÷ 150 mm above ground level and then fill it with concrete mortar;
- lay a brick foundation and then plaster it with cement.
- After the mortar has hardened, the formwork is removed from the cement foundation, and the brick foundation is leveled on top.
- Roofing material is laid on its surface, which will separate the concrete surface from the wooden one.
- A ready-made toilet structure is either installed on the foundation, or it is erected independently.
For the convenience of the construction process, a wooden base-frame made of powerful bars is first attached to the foundation, and other structural elements will be mounted on it, depending on the chosen building model.
4. It is impossible not to mention another way of arranging a cesspool - using metal barrels with a cut bottom. They are installed one on top of the other and in the same way as in the previous case. A gravel mixture or a mixture of sand and crushed stone is compacted around the resulting pipe.
A cesspool made of metal barrels obviously won’t last long Prices for country toilets
country toilet
It would seem that the method is simple to implement, but it has many more disadvantages than advantages. Metal barrels, under aggressive influence both from the inside and outside, from the ground, corrode very quickly, and such a toilet will not last long.
Popular country toilet projects
Construction of a country toilet house
When both the pit and the site for installing the toilet room are ready, you can proceed to installing the house according to a pre-designed scheme.
Toilet houses can have a wide variety of shapes, for example, even in the form of a fairy-tale hut. The uninitiated will not immediately determine what kind of room this fits so perfectly into landscape design plot. It is quite possible to make such a structure with your own hands, knowing the diagram of its assembly.
The photo shows an option partially made of logs, which give this structure a decorative appearance and disguise the purpose of the building itself.
The original little house - you won’t immediately understand that it’s a toilet The diagram shows the basis of the building log cabin, only boards were used instead of logs. You can clearly see how the walls are assembled and the roof slopes rise. Internal space allocated and selected location toilet seat.
Approximate diagram"teremka" The next stage will be roof sheathing, roofing and wall cladding with the material chosen for this - it can be either wood or metal.
Such a house can either be installed on a cesspool, or used as a room for a dry closet.
Video: making a house - a “teremka” for a country toilet
Another option for building a toilet is called a “hut”. In this case, the house is built in the form of a triangle, and its side walls are also the roof. The shape is quite simple, so erecting the building will not be difficult.
Toilet - “hut” 
This design is not only easy to construct, but also convenient to use - it is stable at the base and quite spacious inside.
Installation of a toilet - “hut”The presented figure shows the entire internal structure of the house, the installation location of the toilet seat and the method of sheathing the walls and roof. The cladding of the front part of the building and the rear wall has begun. The “hut” house can be placed on a equipped cesspool, as in this case, or it can also be used as a room for a dry closet.
This form of house can be called traditional, since it can most often be found on plots. But even such a simple design can be decorated according to your preference.
For example, it was decided to make the toilet in this garden area look like a Japanese house. This is indicated by the hieroglyphs written on a tablet suspended on chains, japanese lantern at the entrance and even an additional roof. In addition, the interior design of the room is also consistent with the general style.
This attitude towards the design of the site suggests that even from such a structure as this, you can make a small work of art if you put in a little effort.
An approximate diagram of the construction of such a toilet is shown in the figure. It clearly shows the structure of the cesspool, the installation of a toilet structure and a cleaning hatch on top of it. The design is quite simple in design, and it is not difficult to erect. But for it to be reliable, it is necessary to achieve rigidity in the connections between all parts.
The interior of a toilet, located above a cesspool, may look like this during the construction of walls. That is, foundation bars are installed on the foundation, onto which the frame of the future structure is fixed.
After the final finishing of the toilet from the inside, the room can have such a neat and cozy look.
If desired and possibilities you can come up with another design for a country toilet, but all the interior decoration needs to be made from warm materials. Not recommended for use for decoration ceramic tiles, since this is a very cold type of material, and in addition, in winter, the tile also becomes very slippery.
Video: several options for constructing a country toilet
Dry toilet
If there is no way to build a country toilet or there is simply no desire to get involved with construction work, then you can use the dry closet. This option will save you from digging a hole and, possibly, from installing a house.
Dry toilet - perfect solution for country conditions is a self-contained toilet that does not require any separate room, no connection to branch communications
The dry closet consists of two compartments-chambers, the upper one of which acts as a toilet, and the other serves for the biological processing of waste. The second, lower chamber contains active substances that decompose feces and turn them into a homogeneous mass that is odorless. The action of the bioactive liquid for waste decomposition lasts for ten days, then the chamber is cleaned by pouring the contents into the central sewer or into the soil. The disposal method will depend on what active substances will be used in the dry closet. These substances are T Three types: composting, chemical and microorganic. Each of them is suitable for a specific type of dry closet.
- For a composting dry toilet, peat is used as the active substance. It has a high absorption capacity - for example, one kilogram of peat absorbs ten liters of liquid. The odorless compost obtained as a result of active processes is ideal for fertilizing beds.
Typically, such a dry closet comes with ventilation pipes that remove unpleasant odors during processing.
- A dry toilet, which operates using chemicals, has an indicator that will indicate that the container requires cleaning. Waste processed in this way is discharged into the sewer system in order to protect the environment. For such models, special substances with non-freezing properties are produced.
- The third type of this useful device is a dry closet, in which microorganisms process waste, turning it into compost. The resulting material is environmentally friendly and harmless to the soil and animals, so it will not be difficult to dispose of it.
Advantages and disadvantages of a dry toilet
- high levels of environmental safety;
- ease of use;
- absence of unpleasant odors;
- affordable price;
- durable material.
- odor leakage is possible, installation in a ventilated area will be required;
- at heavy pollution receiver container, you will have to wash it yourself.
- It is not possible to use a peat dry closet in rooms with low temperatures. Due to the cold, all processing processes stop, the contents of the lower reservoir freeze, as well as the peat itself. The problem is solved by moving the dry closet to a warm room.
If desired, a dry closet can be installed in a very ordinary room, built with your own hands, which is located in the yard, and in the winter, you can bring it into the house, allocating a convenient corner for these needs.
Prices for a popular range of dry toilets
Dry toilets
Biological toilet products
To help owners summer cottages that have pit latrines on their premises have been developed special means, similar to those used in dry closets.
Before using the product, be sure to read the instructions, since the composition is poured or poured in parts. You can learn how to use such substances correctly from the information on the packaging, since each product is dosed differently. This substance is usually used very sparingly. For example, one package or jar of some products lasts for a year for a cesspool with a volume of 3.5 ÷ 4 tons.
So, there are many ways to solve the problem of a country toilet - there is always the opportunity to choose one option or another.
