How to line a bathhouse inside: principles for choosing material. Finishing a bathhouse: choosing the best materials for a steam room, washing room and changing room How to line a bathhouse from the inside

What kind of materials are used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And wooden panels are much more pleasing and familiar to the eye. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. Difference from simple edged boards consisted of the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, due to which maximum contact between adjacent panels was ensured. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technological progress, production has also stepped forward. different types linings. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic doesn't hold up high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there are ventilation channels that prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to , the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from wood coniferous species and deciduous. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, and pine.

Wood	Color	Properties	Photo
Aspen	White, acquires a silvery tint. The yellow growth rings are barely visible.	Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to even hammer a nail into an aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up.
Linden	Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte shine.	The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up little, and in the steam room it releases aromatic components that are beneficial to health. When in contact with linden wood in a humid environment, the iron oxidizes and rusts, and streaks appear.
Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar	Brown with a pink tint.	One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack.
	Beige, brown with red shades. It gets darker with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin canals.	Good mechanical properties, viscosity, warping is moderate. Does not cause difficulties during processing. It releases resin when heated, so it is not used for covering those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. It is not suitable for covering the ceiling of a steam room or it requires repeated heating of the steam room followed by removal of the resin that has emerged (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bathhouse, it is better to choose Extra-class pine lining.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood is big amount knots heat up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

Class or variety	Description
Extra	Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
A or 1	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ panel long, non-through cracks - less than 9.5 cm long (the crack exit is directed towards the end of the panel) that appear when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There may be tarring and resin pockets 2 pcs. by 1 m.p.
B or 2	There are many knots, of which no more than 2 can fall out. by 1 m.p. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long; hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pieces per 1 m.p.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
C or 3	The quality is low. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

Profile	Description	Scheme
Standard	Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tongue being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensation.
	Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed.
	Soft-line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels.
	Used for finishing external walls and premises. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the back side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of ​​the steam room lining.

1. Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
2. Area of ​​the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
3. Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
4. Total area of ​​the room: 6 (ceiling) + 7.5 (first long wall) + 7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m 2.

We calculate the area of ​​the hallway paneling.

1. Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
2. Area of ​​two long walls: 3x2.5 = 7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
3. Area of ​​two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
4. Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of ​​window and door openings, and then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated per square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

• panel thickness 12.5 mm;
• panel width 96 mm;
• panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how much square meters material in one cubic meter, count the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase a lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the sauna lining will have to be completely or partially replaced.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bathhouse is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if an accidental blow, fallen coal or high humidity If the vertical board is damaged, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing, the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Prices for PVC lining

pvc lining

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent slats is from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the slats using a stretched fishing line/cord or laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when you need to do more low ceiling in the bathhouse, metal hangers are used to fasten the lathing.

In this case, first, hangers are fixed to the ceiling using long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the batten, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting step the horizontal bars of the sheathing are attached using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wall wooden planks a gap of 2 cm must be left.

To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the screws, place the board on the sheathing (be sure to have the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, and check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.

The most important room in a bathhouse is the steam room. Except yours main function it must satisfy aesthetic needs, because it is much more pleasant to spend time where it is beautiful. Let's consider how to decorate the inside of the steam room so that it pleases with its appearance.

Choice of finishing material

Traditionally, wood is used to cover the steam room, which gives the room a beautiful appearance, creates a healthy atmosphere and retains heat. However, there are many various types wood and of course the question arises, what kind of wood is better to cover the steam room with?

Various types of wood are used to produce bath finishing materials. However, it is not recommended to use coniferous wood for lining the steam room, since it can release resin when heated strongly (read: ""). It is best to use such types of wood for finishing a bath as linden, larch, oak, and aspen. If you really want to enjoy the pine aroma during bath procedures, then you can finish it with cedar material. It is durable and not resinous.

Requirements for the material for covering the steam room

When choosing what to cover a steam room in a bathhouse with, you should pay attention to such points as:

• The wood must be moisture-resistant and dry quickly, which will allow it to avoid rotting.
• The resin content should approach zero. The best option is to have no resins at all.
• The surface must be flat, smooth, free from roughness, gaps and knots.
• Wood should have low thermal conductivity, since wood that is highly heated in a steam room can burn the skin.

When choosing which is the best tree to buy for a steam room, you should pay attention to linden. Lining made from such wood is considered the most optimal material. First, find out which lining is best for a sauna, only then start planning construction. Linden wood has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and releases beneficial essential oils.

Aspen is also a good material for a steam room, as it is durable, strong and has medicinal properties. And another advantage is its low cost.

When deciding what kind of wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you can opt for larch. It has a positive effect on the human body, has high density, strength, low thermal conductivity, and does not absorb moisture. In general, such wood has all the necessary qualities and is perfect for finishing a bathhouse.

Interior arrangement of the steam room

As a rule, benches, shelves, and headrests are installed in the steam room. They are fairly easy to make, so you can do it yourself. It is recommended to make bath furniture from the same type of wood that was used to cover the walls of the steam room.

Nowadays African oak, or abashi in other words, has become widespread.

It has such advantages as:

• low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• high density;
• durability;
• strength;
• does not deform;
• pleasant to the touch.

The disadvantage of abashi is its rather high price.

When covering a steam room, the lining can be mounted vertically or horizontally (more details: " "). If a horizontal arrangement is chosen, then the lining should be nailed from the bottom up. This technique will prevent water from seeping into the joints.

First you need to install vertical posts between which you will lay insulation material. To do this, markings are made, which should start from the corner. The distance between the inner sides of the racks should be 59 cm. This step will allow you to correctly install the insulation of the required thickness.

To do this, you need to make a special copier. It is a thin ruler, which is pointed on one side and has holes along its entire length that match the diameter of a pencil. Take the stand and press it against the wall, then use a copier to draw and draw lines repeating the shape of the log house.

Next, the racks are processed in accordance with the drawn lines. It is enough to make sure that the stand, with a pitch of 60 cm, is tightly adjacent to the logs in several places. The vertical level must be strictly observed. The length of the contact surface should be about 2-3 cm, this will be enough. The steam room board must be treated with an antiseptic.

A protective film is placed under the racks installed in accordance with the markings. To do this, use a level or plumb line. Galvanized screws or nails are suitable for fixing the material to the logs. You can do without long screws: it is drilled into the rack blind hole, which should be several millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw head.

It is necessary to pull a rope from above and below the wall; it must be tied to the outer posts. This will help you align and install the interior posts.

It is necessary to stretch and level the protective film in such a way that air does not get between the open logs. Otherwise, such a mistake will lead to the fact that both the frame and lining of the steam room will begin to rot and deform, as a result, bath procedures will no longer benefit the body.

During installation corner posts Insulation material must be laid immediately.

Nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Naturally, before starting this stage, you need to already know how to line the inside of the bathhouse, and also purchase all required material. The most used and recommended method of fastening the lining is flush fastening.

Before you begin finishing work, you need to prepare the material that will be used to finish the steam room. Before attaching it to the walls, the lining must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it will be used.

The floor in the steam room must be higher than the floor level in other rooms. The shelves are installed above the heater by about 10 cm. Benches and shelves should not have sharp corners. Only natural materials should be used inside the steam room.

It is very important to choose what kind of wood to cover the steam room with, since not all types of wood are suitable for this. You should also take into account all the finishing features of the most important room of the bathhouse, which determines whether the procedures taken will be useful.

The steam room is the most important place in the bathhouse. To enjoy your stay in the steam room and experience the maximum benefit from its effects on the body, you need proper wall decoration.

The effect of the visit will be even more enhanced if the decoration of the steam bath is done with your own hands.

Selection of materials

To the question “How to decorate the inside of the bathhouse?” we can answer unequivocally that the most suitable material is the lining - special panels for wall cladding, the main advantages of which include:

• good microcirculation, allowing the walls to breathe
• no condensation
• pleasing to the eye appearance
• ease of installation
• reasonable cost

The best breeds The starting material for the manufacture of lining has long been considered deciduous (aspen, larch, linden, alder, ash), since walls made of them allow the room to quickly warm up, while at the same time remaining comfortable for humans in temperature.

This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore will not cause harm to health.

Of the listed species, the most preferred (and not only for wall cladding) is larch, but it is also the most expensive material.

Linden lining it is advisable to process it first with a special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) to preserve its original - almost white - color.

Due to its hardness, aspen lining is also a good cladding material, but experts prefer use it for ceilings and walls.

durable, resistant to decay process is ash, with the help of its beautiful core you can achieve an attractive decorative effect.

Alder, which has a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can be a worthy material for finishing ( especially inside a bathhouse made of foam blocks).

It is not recommended to take it Birch is used as a starting material for lining due to its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during preparation.

If, for some reason, you still have to make lining from this rock, then you must take into account that it has a loose structure and in the process of preparing for use it will susceptible to drying out.

A relatively new material, which professionals advise using to cover walls in a steam room, is lining made from African oak Abash(or Abashi).

This coating has a number most valuable properties, thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:

• low level of thermal conductivity;
• lightness and at the same time strength;
• resistance to deformation, absence of cracks and chips when sawing and drilling;
• resistance to rotting;
• the presence of a unique, beautiful pattern on the surface.

U of this material there is only one drawback - it's his quite high cost. But it is covered by the properties mentioned above.

Whatever the source material the lining is made from, it must first be well dried and processed so that there are no roughnesses on it.

What can't be used in a steam room?

It is unacceptable to decorate the walls steam room with coniferous species (spruce, pine). The reasons for this are as follows:

• when the walls are very hot, touching them can become unexpected and quite unpleasant;
• drops of released resins can get on the skin and burn it.

It is not recommended to use hardwoods such as oak and walnut. This is due to their high heat capacity, which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.

In a steam room, the walls of which are covered with clapboard made of oak or walnut, usually It's difficult to breathe. In addition, if you accidentally touch them, you can burn your skin.

You should not cover the walls in the steam room with chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.

It's connected with harmful effects of chemicals on the human body at very high temperatures.

DIY finishing process

Basic moments interior finishing step by step:

1. Manufacturing of sheathing;
2. Fastening steam and thermal insulation;
3. Installation of wooden panels.

You don’t have to limit yourself to just a bathhouse, but also decorate the walls of your home with clapboard. Read how to do this here.

Requirements for installing sheathing

The sheathing slats must be positioned strictly parallel to each other and the floor. To achieve this, a level is used.

First, the upper and lower guides are attached, and then all the other slats.

It is necessary to place the slats from each other at a distance of no more than fifty centimeters.

The finished frame must be treated with an antiseptic.

Hydro- and thermal insulation of steam room walls

For vapor barrier Most often, aluminum foil is used, as well as foamed polymer materials (polypropylene). The advantage of polymer materials is that they simultaneously have vapor and heat insulating qualities.

These materials, laminated with foil, not only help maintain a high temperature in the steam room, but also resist the accumulation of dampness and the appearance of fungus.

1. Attach insulation to the timber wall (mineral wool is best suited for this purpose).
2. Attach a layer of foil to the insulation.
3. Install the sheathing (it is necessary to create an air gap between the lining and the foil layer).

Installation of lining

Before installation begins, processing of the lining (as well as sheathing) is required. antiseptic.

Installation of the lining should begin from the far corner of the steam room.

For fastening, you can use nails (which is extremely undesirable due to their tendency to corrosion under the influence of high humidity).

More suitable and more modern means are clamps - staples, which, when installed, do not damage the surface of the lining, since they do not form holes in it. This is the so-called hidden fastener.

You should know that there are different types of clamps, depending on what materials they are intended for fastening.

Walls should be sheathed vertically.

This is due to the fact that condensation that can form on the walls will flow down, rather than accumulating at the joints and gradually ruining their condition and appearance.

For a step-by-step guide on how to properly cover walls and ceilings with clapboard, watch the video instructions:

Features of dressing room finishing

• Dimensions of this room in the bathhouse should not exceed 150 x 250 centimeters. This should be a fairly comfortable place in temperature, without drafts.
• For natural light window is used small sizes. Artificial lighting must also be provided.

Should provide a place for clothes, benches for rest, and also, if possible, a small table at which it is convenient to organize communication and drink traditional drinks that replenish fluid lost by the body.

In the dressing room, wall decoration is also important, but the requirements for materials here are not as strict as for the interior decoration of the steam room. Allowed (and even encouraged) clapboard paneling made of coniferous trees.

The dressing area is also must be insulated foam or mineral wool. Mineral wool is attached to the walls and ceiling using wooden slats, and foam plastic - with special fastenings.

Installation of the sheathing precedes the fastening of wooden panels. The panels are attached using ordinary nails or self-tapping screws.

Find out more about the secrets of finishing a bath from the video below:

Finishing the bathhouse from the inside: the required minimum work before operating the steam room

Interior decoration of a bathhouse is a creative and interesting business. On interior design premises, as a rule, can take up to half the construction budget, which is not surprising. A wonderful relaxation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work yourself and choosing budget finishing options.

Work order

The baths are built in different types, one or two floors, with billiard rooms and upper recreation rooms, as additional equipment they install a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider standard version bathhouses with three functional rooms: steam room, washing room, dressing room or relaxation room.

It is clear that all three rooms are finished differently. For example, pine cannot be used in a steam room, but it can be used in a dressing room; this will save money and fill the room with delicious pine aromas.

Important! The procedure for finishing activities in a wooden or other bathhouse is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.

Algorithm finishing works in the bath:

• floor arrangement;
• wall covering;
• installation of the ceiling;
• installation of equipment, furniture.

Proper finishing, which includes installation of insulation, vapor barrier and decoration of the premises, will create a paradise for relaxation of soul and body.

Floor arrangement

The process is essentially not difficult. IN wooden bath logs are installed from timber 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm, boards, edged or tongue-and-groove, are laid on them. Hardwood is preferable among materials, but the use of oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option is larch floors.

The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. This is especially true in the washing department, where there is excess water. In the steam room, the floor is raised from the general level by 150–200 mm to retain heat.

The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and primer to prevent their swelling and the formation of fungal colonies.

Many people cover the floor with ceramic tiles in the steam room and washing room; this is reasonable for a brick bathhouse. IN wooden building the best floor is a polished, carefully processed board. Treatment with primers from Tikkuril, Snezhet and other companies will protect against deformation.

As for the floors in the rest room, it all depends on imagination and financial capabilities. You can use tiles of various types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates reliable protection from moisture, does not allow the inner part of the panel - HDF board - to swell, does not deform, lasts for 20 years. You can use modern finishing materials that have recently appeared on the market liquid linoleum and much more.

The floor in rooms where water can enter is made with a slight slope and drainage.

Bathroom wall decoration

For finishing the walls of a paired compartment, the choice of materials is not large; the use of wood-based materials, linoleum and other chemical products.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made of trees:

1. Cedar. Moisture-resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and temperature changes, cedar is most preferable for the walls of a steam room; when heated, its wood releases substances that are healing for the human body and pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are gentle to the touch, it’s nice to lean your back against a cedar wall. A steam room trimmed with cedar should be heated strongly for the first time and the heat should be maintained for 40–45 minutes so that the cedar weeps out the resin.
2. Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular despite its high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus its pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
3. Linden. A healing tree, the wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20–25 years, a real godsend for a steam room, essential linden oils heal the bronchi and treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and slightly romanticizes the steam room space;
4. Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washing rooms and relaxation rooms. Walls finished with larch are not afraid of moisture; the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous bags and the structure of the fibers. Wood has a varied color palette, natural shine and beauty of design. Walls finished with larch also require initial heating to maximum temperatures for 40–45 minutes in order for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive and is considered popular.
5. Aspen. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find on the construction market; it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.

The walls of the washing room can be tiled or lined with lining of softwood. You can use tiles for tiling walls. moisture resistant drywall, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.

Tiles for a washing room are especially relevant in a brick building; they do not collapse under the influence of moisture, are easy to maintain, and last a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more durable. A matte, rough surface is preferable to prevent slipping, and the reverse side, smooth without porosity, will prevent fungus from occurring.

Whatever type of finishing is used in the washing room, it is worth putting rubber mats or wooden grates on the floor.

The walls in the rest room should be finished depending on how well it is protected from the penetration of steam and moisture. But for a log bathhouse you can’t think of anything better than sanded logs, however, it’s a matter of taste. For brick walls Even decorative plaster of any kind is suitable, including Venetian. And yet, the stylistic features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, having a heart-to-heart conversation.

Decorative finishing of the walls is carried out after installing a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in the washing room and rest room, foil penofol simultaneously serves as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and insulation.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bathhouse is obvious, especially if the premises do not have forced ventilation. Walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.

Ceiling finishing

The finishing of the ceilings is similar to the finishing of the walls. The same materials and technologies are used for the steam room. In the washing room, you can cover the ceiling with clapboard made of linden, cedar, and aspen. The best insulation for the ceiling of a steam room is ecowool. The material is not cheap, but it is worth the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of ​​the steam room is small.

A layer of foil material is definitely needed, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. You should not use materials based on foamed propylene foam or polyurethane foam. The optimal insulation option is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.

Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is the key to safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!

Decoration of premises

Aesthetics and comfort of space bath rooms is formed not only by finishing materials. You will need good furniture:

• shelves in the steam room;
• font in the washing room;
• sofa, table for the rest room.

Also needed beautiful doors, glass or solid wood, and many other nice things.

A special factor of comfort that ensures the functionality of the space is correct lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, use of lamps is a topic for a separate discussion. Here you just need to note the importance of proper lighting in all rooms of the bathhouse, which creates a mood that promotes relaxation and a pleasant pastime.

How to line a bathhouse inside: beautiful and inexpensive

The best options for lining the inside of a bathhouse. What material for the interior lining of a bathhouse will look beautiful and at the same time be inexpensive. Photos showing various options for natural interior lining of a bathhouse.

The most important stage in the construction of a bathhouse is the installation of the internal lining. It is worth paying special attention to the choice of material for interior design baths, since the service life and quality of finishing will depend on this. The finishing material also plays a role in maintaining the proper appearance of the interior coating.

When choosing a material, you should pay attention to the following qualities:

• steam resistance;
• water resistance;
• resistance to fire;
• environmental friendliness;
• heat preservation.

Internal lining of the bath: the best options

The combination of foil and basalt wool has all of the above characteristics. Installation begins with the installation of a frame made of wooden beams(the best option here is wooden blocks 30 by 30 mm), then filled with cotton wool. The foil acts as insulation, as it has the necessary listed characteristics, and is placed in a layer on top of the basalt wool. The foil is secured using a pneumatic steller.

Pine lining is another option for high-quality interior decoration of a bathhouse or sauna. Linden and alder are also often used due to the fact that such wood does not release resin when heated. If you treat the material according to all the rules, its service life will be significantly extended.

Pine lining: one of the most common options for interior lining of a bathhouse due to its aesthetic appearance and decent performance characteristics

The material, which imitates timber, is also successfully used for lining the inside of a bathhouse. In addition to technical characteristics, it also has a pleasant appearance. The material is very convenient to install; it is not subject to deformation, unlike natural wood, cracks do not appear on it over time. Imitation of wood pattern gives the impression of real wood. The raw materials used to imitate timber are environmentally friendly, so this finishing option can be considered ideal.

Rules for choosing material for the interior decoration of a bath

Often the low cost of the material may seem very attractive and you will want to save on interior decoration. But you shouldn’t fall for such tempting offers, since when it comes to decorating the interior of a bathhouse, you should first of all focus on the environmental friendliness of the material.

Attention! Use only natural materials for the interior decoration of the bathhouse, since when the temperature rises, chemicals can have a negative effect on human health, in particular, cause an allergic reaction.

Natural materials have the following advantages:

1. Fire resistance;
2. Absence of harmful substances;
3. Good air permeability;
4. They do not have a specific smell.

When visiting a bathhouse made of natural material, there will be no discomfort, since such a structure will breathe and circulate air. Wooden finishing materials will be the optimal solution here.

How to choose a coating treatment product

This question is more complex than the choice of the material itself, since the variation in means for protecting the coating is much greater, and the composition of such mixtures is very controversial.

Such products are designed to protect the coating from fungus and cracks. When choosing a wood treatment product, you should pay attention to the composition, which should not contain harmful components. When heated, such a composition should not emit carcinogenic substances, and there should be no specific odor. The amount of chemicals in the composition should be kept to a minimum, otherwise it may affect health.

Compositions on water based can be put on the priority list. For example, a varnish with such a composition, after drying well, will be completely harmless even at high temperatures.

Since a bathhouse is a room with increased level humidity, it is recommended to additionally treat the internal lining to protect against fungus and cracks

Wax is also often used due to its ease of application. It protects wood better than other means from possible fungus, which is quite likely to occur in a room with a high level of humidity, such as a bathhouse.

Advice. It is possible to not process the coating at all. In this case, after each visit to the bathhouse, it should be thoroughly dried, and if damage is detected, the section of material should be replaced as quickly as possible.

General conclusions on choosing the interior decoration of a bath

Naturalness is the key quality bath, which will only bring benefits. When choosing, avoid cheap, but chemical-rich materials, and use high-quality and natural ones, such as wood, varnishes and other water-based substances and wax mixtures. In the bath with natural finish you will enjoy not only the process, but also the aesthetic appearance.

Video: Internal lining of the bathhouse

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a bathhouse: materials and features

The construction of the bathhouse itself is, of course, a more complex process, but this does not mean that the interior decoration of the bathhouse plays a lesser role. It is this that creates the atmosphere and environment in which you will carry out steaming procedures and relax, and also directly affects the durability of the building itself.

The conditions in the bathhouse are difficult: a lot of steam, high temperature, constant temperature fluctuations, high humidity. In such an environment, not every material will be able to maintain its appearance and not deteriorate, so you need to approach its choice with all responsibility.

All materials used in the interior decoration of bath rooms must meet the following conditions:

• hygiene, the development of fungus and mold can have an impact Negative influence not only on its appearance, but also on our health;
• resistance to hot air, since steam is an integral component of bath procedures;
• environmental friendliness, it is unacceptable for the material to emit harmful chemicals in the heat;
• strength and durability, frequent repairs significantly impact the budget;
• resistance to moisture, there is always high humidity in the steam room;
• decorative, after all, decoration is also needed to decorate the room, it is important that it is aesthetically attractive.

The most popular material for finishing a bathhouse inside is wood. It is natural, has high performance qualities and gives a special atmosphere. But you need to take into account that not all types of wood are suitable.

It is also prohibited to use the following materials: fiberboard, chipboard, linoleum. When heated, they release harmful substances and also cannot withstand exposure to moisture - they begin to swell and collapse.

But these materials are quite suitable for decorating a dressing room or recreation area. For example, the same pine tree exudes a pleasant pine aroma. And if you look at the photo of the bathhouse inside, you can see that it also has a pleasant appearance.

But what materials are suitable for finishing a steam room in a bathhouse? Photos, recommendations

The most popular finishing material, which can be seen in almost all photos of finishing a bathhouse inside, is lining for finishing a bathhouse. She represents comfortable material, which is great for finishing the bathhouse yourself. The material is made of wood and is made in the form of panels that visually level the surface and look neat. The lining provides ventilation to the walls, protects them from condensation, the formation of mold and mildew, and helps regulate humidity.

Larch is the most durable material; it easily tolerates temperature changes and feels great in conditions of high humidity.

It's creative and interesting. As a rule, up to half of the construction budget can be spent on the interior arrangement of premises, which is not surprising. A wonderful relaxation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work yourself and choosing budget finishing options.

Work order

The baths are built in different types, one or two floors, with billiard rooms and upper recreation rooms; a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization are installed as additional equipment. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider a standard version of a bathhouse with three functional rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room or a relaxation room.

It is clear that all three rooms are finished differently. For example, pine cannot be used in a steam room, but it can be used in a dressing room; this will save money and fill the room with delicious pine aromas.

Important! The procedure for finishing activities in a wooden or other bathhouse is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.

Algorithm for finishing work in the bathhouse:

• floor arrangement;
• wall covering;
• installation of the ceiling;
• installation of equipment, furniture.

Proper finishing, which includes installation of insulation, vapor barrier and decoration of the premises, will create a paradise for relaxation of soul and body.

Floor arrangement

The process is essentially not difficult. In a wooden bathhouse, logs made of timber 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm are installed, and boards, edged or tongue-and-groove, are laid on them. Hardwood is preferable among materials, but the use of oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option is larch floors.

The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. This is especially true in the washing department, where there is excess water. In the steam room, the floor is raised from the general level by 150–200 mm to retain heat.

The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and primer to prevent their swelling and the formation of fungal colonies.

Many people cover the floor with ceramic tiles in the steam room and washing room; this is reasonable for a brick bathhouse. In a wooden building, the best floor is a polished, carefully processed board. Treatment with primers from Tikkuril, Snezhet and other companies will protect against deformation.

As for the floors in the rest room, it all depends on imagination and financial capabilities. You can use tiles of various types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates reliable protection against moisture, does not allow the inner part of the panel - HDF board - to swell, does not deform, and lasts for 20 years. You can use modern liquid linoleum, which has recently appeared on the market of finishing materials, and much more.

The floor in rooms where water can enter is made with a slight slope and drainage.

Bathroom wall decoration

For finishing the walls of the steam room, the choice of materials is not large; the use of wood-based materials, linoleum and other chemical products is unacceptable here.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made from the following types of trees:

1. Cedar. Moisture-resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and temperature changes, cedar is most preferable for the walls of a steam room; when heated, its wood releases substances that are healing for the human body and pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are gentle to the touch, it’s nice to lean your back against a cedar wall. A steam room trimmed with cedar should be heated strongly for the first time and the heat should be maintained for 40–45 minutes so that the cedar weeps out the resin.
2. Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular despite its high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus its pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
3. Linden. A healing tree, the wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20–25 years, a real godsend for a steam room, essential linden oils heal the bronchi and treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and slightly romanticizes the steam room space;
4. Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washing rooms and relaxation rooms. Walls finished with larch are not afraid of moisture; the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous bags and the structure of the fibers. Wood has a varied color palette, natural shine and beauty of design. Walls finished with larch also require initial heating to maximum temperatures for 40–45 minutes in order for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive and is considered popular.
5. Aspen. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find on the construction market; it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.

The walls of the washing room can be tiled or lined with clapboard made of coniferous wood. For tiling walls, you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, OSB boards, and moisture-resistant plywood.

Tiles for a washing room are especially relevant in a brick building; they do not collapse under the influence of moisture, are easy to maintain, and last a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more durable. A matte, rough surface is preferable to prevent slipping, and the reverse side, smooth without porosity, will prevent fungus from occurring.

Whatever type of finishing is used in the washing room, it is worth putting rubber mats or wooden grates on the floor.

The walls in the rest room should be finished depending on how well it is protected from the penetration of steam and moisture. But for a log bathhouse you can’t think of anything better than sanded logs, however, it’s a matter of taste. Even decorative plaster of any kind, including Venetian, is suitable for brick walls. And yet, the stylistic features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, having a heart-to-heart conversation.

Decorative finishing of the walls is carried out after installing a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in the washing room and rest room, foil penofol simultaneously serves as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and insulation.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bathhouse is obvious, especially if the premises do not have forced ventilation. Walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.

Ceiling finishing

The finishing of the ceilings is similar to the finishing of the walls. The same materials and technologies are used for the steam room. In the washing room, you can cover the ceiling with clapboard made of linden, cedar, and aspen. The best insulation for the ceiling of a steam room is ecowool. The material is not cheap, but it is worth the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of ​​the steam room is small.

A layer of foil material is definitely needed, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. You should not use materials based on foamed propylene foam or polyurethane foam. The optimal insulation option is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.

Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is the key to safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!

Decoration of premises

The aesthetics and comfort of the space of bath rooms is formed not only by finishing materials. You will need good furniture:

• shelves in the steam room;
• font in the washing room;
• sofa, table for the rest room.

You also need beautiful doors, glass or solid wood, and many other nice things.

A special factor of comfort that ensures the functionality of the space is proper lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, use of lamps is a topic for a separate discussion. Here you just need to note the importance of proper lighting in all rooms of the bathhouse, which creates a mood that promotes relaxation and a pleasant pastime.

During the construction of a bathhouse, there comes a time when it is necessary to decide on its interior decoration. It is very important to choose a material that will not only be beautiful and functional, but also be able to withstand the specific microclimate of a given room. Based on this, many people wonder how to inexpensively line the inside of a bathhouse and what qualities should the chosen material have? A properly equipped steam room is the key to a comfortable and pleasant stay, which is why the finishing of all its surfaces must be approached as responsibly as possible. In this article we will look in detail at the process of improving this room, starting from the choice of materials and ending with the technology of their installation.

Choosing the right material

To the question of how to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse, there is one correct answer - wood. Why them? Because it is the only 100% natural material that meets all the requirements for use in rooms with high humidity and high temperatures. This finishing gives the space a special aesthetics, creates a pleasant atmosphere, and, most importantly, retains heat perfectly.

For those who are interested in what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse other than wood, mention should be made of glass-magnesium sheets. This new material, which is made from wood chips and fiberglass with the addition of various binding components.

The boards are produced in light colors and can be used in rooms with high humidity. Because it's comparative New Product, it is rarely used for cladding baths, so we won’t dwell on it for long.

Wooden materials are actively used: block house, panels and lining. For a bathhouse, these options are considered the most suitable.

What wood should you choose for a bathhouse?

When decorating walls and ceilings, you don’t have to limit yourself to just one type of wood. The combination of various varieties that differ in shade will allow you to create a more interesting and extraordinary design. But, before deciding which wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you should take into account the properties and performance characteristics each tree species.

When cladding the ceiling and walls, it is better to use larch, linden, aspen and cedar. It is highly undesirable to place pine materials in a steam room, since when heated they release into the air Strong smell which may interfere comfortable rest.

But for finishing dressing rooms and rest rooms, this option is optimal. Pine has a beautiful texture, is easy to process and has a very attractive price.

It is better to sheathe the steam room and washing room with linden and larch.

These wood species are able to retain their original color for a long time and practically do not heat up when exposed to high temperatures.

Decorating a steam room

For finishing the surfaces of the steam room, only high-quality materials should be selected. Most often, lining is used here. For a bathhouse, choose a board of the highest class from hard wood.

The slats are located in a horizontal or vertical position and are secured with nails, gluers or staples in a hidden way. In order to ensure reliable retention of heat and steam inside the room, a layer of thermal insulation material is placed on the walls.

For this purpose the following can be used:

• foil;
• mineral wool;
• polystyrene foam covered with foil;
• glassine, etc.

It is very important that there is air space between the lining and the insulation. This can be achieved by installing the lathing on which the facing material will be installed. The distance between the slats should be no more than 50 cm.

The finished frame and lining are coated with an antiseptic. Processing is carried out before assembly begins. Wall cladding begins from any corner of the room, securing the boards on both sides with any of the above fastening materials.

Flooring: wood or ceramics?

The temperature in a steam room at floor level usually does not exceed 30 degrees, so they can be made of any material. It is more important to properly and quickly drain the water from the bathhouse. The subfloor is covered with plank flooring, on which sanded floorboard or ceramic tiles.

Comparing these two coatings, it should be noted that the tiles are more durable. This is due to the fact that when exposed to moisture, wood darkens, rots and after some time fails. Ceramics, in turn, are not afraid of humidity, temperature changes and are not susceptible to rot and mold.

Despite this, very often wooden floors are installed in bathhouses. This material harmonizes perfectly with the surrounding interior and is much more pleasant when touched with bare feet.

When considering how to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse, it is worthwhile to dwell in detail on the installation technology of both options.

Wooden floor finish

Floor finishing process wooden materials very simple. First of all, the logs are laid on which the boards are mounted. They are placed on brick pillars, which are installed on the base of the floor. For the logs, choose boards measuring 20 x 20 or 25 x 25. They are laid in increments of no more than 1 meter. The floor level in the steam room must be 10-15 centimeters higher than in other rooms of the bathhouse. This is necessary so that you do not leave the steam room for as long as possible. warm air. To lay the finished floor, tongue-and-groove or edged material with a thickness of at least 30 cm is used.

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with boards, all cladding and joists must first be treated with an antiseptic composition. This will protect them from colonization by microorganisms and extend the life of the wooden floor.

Floor finishing with ceramic tiles

For safe movement, you should choose tiles with a rough surface for floors. This will make them less slippery when in contact with water.

To lay a ceramic coating, it is necessary to make a durable concrete base. The surface must be perfectly clean, smooth and dry. Immediately before laying, the tiles are soaked in water for a couple of minutes. This is necessary so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution and the floor covering is of the highest quality and durability.

Start laying the tiles from the most visible corner of the room using sand-cement mortar or moisture-resistant glue. Upon completion of the work, the seams are hidden with a special moisture-resistant grout. It helps protect the tiles from mold.

For more comfortable movement on the tiles, you can place floorings made of wooden slats on the floor. Such designs are convenient because they can be taken out of the steam room to dry.

Price

In order to properly plan your own budget, you need to understand how much it costs to line the inside of a bathhouse. The total amount depends on who will carry out the finishing work and how much quality material selected for finishing.

If you plan to hire specialists to arrange a bathhouse, you need to be prepared to pay for their services. Thus, work on installing sheathing is estimated at 130 rubles per m2. Cladding walls and ceilings with clapboard will cost the owner of the premises from 350-500 rubles per m2.

In the event that the walls inside the bathhouse are lined with my own hands, only the costs of purchasing lining and related materials are taken into account.

Board highest quality made from linden, costs about 500-600 rubles per m2.

Lining made from larch will cost 250-350 rubles per m2, while material made from coniferous wood has a price tag of 150-200 rubles per m2.

To these costs should be added the cost of fasteners, bars and thermal insulation.

Conclusion

In this article, we found out how and with what to inexpensively cover the inside of a bathhouse. In order to save money, you can do the interior arrangement of the room yourself, without resorting to the expensive help of specialists. After finishing the floors, walls and ceilings, you need to take care of lighting and furniture installation. A variety of shelves and hooks on which you can put personal items and hang towels will not be superfluous. After completing all the work, you can begin bathing procedures and enjoy your vacation with family and friends.

How to line a bathhouse from the inside - how to choose material

The history of such a simple but necessary invention as a bathhouse goes back many years, but even today, this building practically does not lose its relevance. A shower and bath cannot completely replace a bathhouse, because in it you can not only get rid of dirt, but also improve your health. Usually a bathhouse consists of a dressing room, a sink and a steam room, but the last two points are often combined.

When building each of these rooms, it is necessary to decide how best to line the bathhouse from the inside, because the air temperature in the room will depend on this, as well as the amount of fuel needed to heat it. In this article we will talk about all the most popular and reliable options lining the bathhouse from the inside.

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Don’t rush to think about how best to line the inside of the bathhouse, because lining may not be needed at all. The task of the internal lining of the bathhouse is to preserve internal heat for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and combustion time. Thus, we can conclude that the lining is an integral part of the bathhouse, but this is not entirely true, because a bathhouse built from solid timber using old technologies, does not need additional insulation(more details: “Sheathing with paired clapboards - how to do it right”).

Having built a bathhouse from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a cladding material.

First of all, you need to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

1. It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
2. Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
3. It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatments, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Speaking specifically about what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse, it is worth mentioning lining, block house and magnolite. Of the three options presented, choosing one can also be difficult, so below we will talk in detail about each of them.

Bath lining

Lining is the most popular material for covering a bathhouse, because it combines all the most necessary qualities: reliability, beauty and reasonable price.

The lining also has a number of useful properties:

• Lining allows you to save a large amount of fuel, reducing heat consumption;
• Behind it you can hide various communications, increasing the level of comfort indoors;
• The lining is resistant to moisture and steam; in addition, it is able to regulate the level of moisture in the steam room and allows the walls of the bath to “breathe”.
• Longevity and resistance to the formation of fungus and mold are also important properties that this material has.

Next we should talk about the correct choice of material. First of all, pay attention to the fact that the price for lining up to 1.5 m is slightly lower than for material from 2 m, so it’s worth choosing a short length. When installing a short lining, use a batten in the middle to avoid various difficulties (more details: “Which lining is best for a bathhouse - a review of materials for a bathhouse, dressing room and shower”).

It is also worth paying attention to the wood from which the lining is made:

• Most best option for the steam room it’s linden, because when heated, it releases essential oils that have a disinfectant and anti-inflammatory effect. Another advantage of this wood is its low thermal conductivity, which helps protect the skin and respiratory tract from burns, while increasing sweating.
• Aspen is a worthy alternative to linden. The price of aspen lining is quite low, and the material itself is resistant to moisture and rotting processes. Warming up, aspen promotes health person.
• It is recommended to use larch in the shower, because it has high strength and resistance to water. Larch lining has a positive effect on well-being and helps improve immunity.
• The steam room can also be finished with white acacia lining. Acacia is a very durable tree, so products made from it last a very long time. The only disadvantage of this wood is the high price.

You can see an example of such cladding in the photo.

Block house for a bathhouse

If you cannot decide what to cover the inside of the steam room with besides the lining, then think about the block house, because it has similar qualities, but a different appearance. The block house has a semi-oval shape, so walls made of this material look like a log house, which gives “historical naturalness” to your bathhouse. The strength and resistance to various influences of the block house are quite high, however, it is recommended to carry out bactericidal treatment once a year.

Block houses are classified by quality:

• Class "C" material undergoes only surface treatment; various defects may be present on its surface, for example, cracks or chips. This material is not recommended for installation in a bathhouse;
• Block house class "B" It is of average quality and is extremely rarely used for finishing baths. There may be small cracks and knots no more than 3 cm on its surface;
• On the surface of class "A" material you will not find any flaws, with the exception of small knots. This option is great for a bath.
• « Extra" class has perfect processing, and its surface is free of any imperfections. Ideal for finishing baths, but also has a fairly high price.

The block house is made from various woods, however, only deciduous and coniferous materials are suitable for a bathhouse. Remember that using spruce and pine is highly discouraged, because you can burn your skin on their heated surface.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for lining a bathhouse on the construction market.

If you are thinking about how to cover the inside of the dressing room other than lining, then you can undoubtedly resort to this option; in addition, it is perfect for other rooms due to its qualities:

• It is completely unaffected by moisture and rotting processes;
• High temperature, as well as temperature changes, do not harm this material;
• Magnelite sheets are quite easy to install.

This covering is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non-natural components, which are reinforced with glass mesh. By making the lining of a bathhouse from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.

Conclusion

Now you are familiar with all the options for interior lining of the sauna and can independently decide how to line the inside of the sauna, starting from own desires and financial situation.

Lining the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard

What kind of materials are used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And wooden panels are much more pleasing and familiar to the eye. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining is...

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technical progress, the production of different types of lining has also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there are ventilation channels that prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to GOST 8242-88, the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. The best options for a steam room are aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, and pine.

WoodColorPropertiesPhoto

Aspen	White, acquires a silvery tint. The yellow growth rings are barely visible.	Lightweight, withstands high humidity and temperature well. Over time, it hardens so much that it is difficult to even hammer a nail into an aspen panel. Does not emit resin, does not heat up.
Linden	Light, brown, less often reddish shades. There is a matte shine.	The fibers are homogeneous, the surface heats up little, and in the steam room it releases aromatic components that are beneficial to health. When in contact with linden wood in a humid environment, the iron oxidizes and rusts, and streaks appear.
Linden Canadian or Siberian cedar	Brown with a pink tint.	One of the most expensive and healthy wood species. Does not rot, withstands mechanical loads well, does not crack.
Beige, brown with red shades. It gets darker with time. Pronounced pattern of growth rings and resin canals.	Good mechanical properties, toughness, moderate warpage. Does not cause difficulties during processing. It releases resin when heated, so it is not used for covering those surfaces in the steam room with which tactile contact is possible. It is not suitable for covering the ceiling of a steam room or it requires repeated heating of the steam room followed by removal of the resin that has emerged (repeat the procedure until all the resin comes out of the lining). For a bathhouse, it is better to choose Extra-class pine lining.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

Class or varietyDescription

Extra	Free from cracks, knots and other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.
A or 1	The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There is 1 healthy knot per 1 linear meter (knot diameter no more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ panel long, non-through cracks - less than 9.5 cm long (the crack exit is directed towards the end of the panel) that appear when drying - no more than the width of the panel. There may be tars and resin pockets of 2 pcs. by 1 m.p.
B or 2	There are many knots, of which no more than 2 can fall out. by 1 m.p. There may be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long; hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pieces per 1 m.p.) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.
C or 3	The quality is low. Many different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery of technical rooms or rough work.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

ProfileDescriptionScheme

Standard	Similar to the classic quarter-plank lining. It has a tongue-and-groove connection, with the tongue being shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in its rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensation.
Manufactured according to DIN 68126 standard. Has an extended tenon. After installing the lining, the wall surface is ribbed.
Soft-line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Shtil lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, relief texture of the wall after assembling the panels.
Used for finishing external walls and rooms. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a tongue-and-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the back side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of ​​the steam room lining.

1. Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
2. Area of ​​the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
3. Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
4. Total area of ​​the room: 6 (ceiling)+7.5 (first long wall)+7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m2.

We calculate the area of ​​the hallway paneling.

1. Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
2. Area of ​​two long walls: 3x2.5 = 7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
3. Area of ​​two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
4. Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of ​​window and door openings, and then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated per square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

• panel thickness 12.5 mm;
• panel width 96 mm;
• panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how many square meters of material are in one cubic meter, calculate the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase a lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the sauna lining will have to be completely or partially replaced.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bathhouse is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, falling coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing, the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit strong chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's look at the step-by-step process of covering the ceiling.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. The optimal distance between adjacent slats is from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check that the slats are attached correctly using a stretched fishing line/cord or a laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when it is necessary to make a lower ceiling in a bathhouse, metal hangers are used to attach the lathing.

In this case, first, hangers are fixed to the ceiling using long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust stains on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the batten, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed and the sheathing has been nailed around the door and window openings, you can proceed to installing the horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting step the horizontal bars of the sheathing are attached using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, you must leave a gap of 2 cm.

To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the screws, place the board on the sheathing (be sure to have the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, and check that it is horizontal. We screw the screws into the drilled holes. We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.

Video - Finishing the steam room

Files for download: DIN 68126 (standard for the manufacture of eurolining) and GOST 8242-88 (standard for the manufacture of wooden lining, skirting boards, etc.).

How to cover a steam room in a bathhouse - how to choose the right wood

The most important room in a bathhouse is the steam room. In addition to its main function, it must satisfy aesthetic needs, because it is much more pleasant to spend time where it is beautiful. Let's consider how to decorate the inside of the steam room so that it pleases with its appearance.

Choice of finishing material

Traditionally, wood is used to cover the steam room, which gives the room a beautiful appearance, creates a healthy atmosphere and retains heat. However, there are many different types of wood and of course the question arises, what kind of wood is best to cover a steam room?

Various types of wood are used to produce bath finishing materials. However, it is not recommended to use coniferous wood to cover the steam room, since it can release resin when heated strongly (read: “Finishing a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands - from floor to ceiling”). It is best to use such types of wood for finishing a bath as linden, larch, oak, and aspen. If you really want to enjoy the pine aroma during bath procedures, then you can finish it with cedar material. It is durable and not resinous.

Requirements for the material for covering the steam room

When choosing what to cover a steam room in a bathhouse with, you should pay attention to such points as:

• The wood must be moisture-resistant and dry quickly, which will allow it to avoid rotting.
• The resin content should approach zero. The best option is to have no resins at all.
• The surface must be flat, smooth, free from roughness, gaps and knots.
• Wood should have low thermal conductivity, since wood that is highly heated in a steam room can burn the skin.

When choosing which is the best tree to buy for a steam room, you should pay attention to linden. Lining made from such wood is considered the most optimal material. Linden wood has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and releases beneficial essential oils.

Aspen is also a good material for a steam room, as it is durable, strong and has healing properties. And another advantage is its low cost.

When deciding what kind of wood to cover the inside of the bathhouse with, you can opt for larch. It has a positive effect on the human body, has high density, strength, low thermal conductivity, and does not absorb moisture. In general, such wood has all the necessary qualities and is perfect for finishing a bathhouse.

Interior arrangement of the steam room

As a rule, benches, shelves, and headrests are installed in the steam room. They are fairly easy to make, so you can do it yourself. It is recommended to make bath furniture from the same type of wood that was used to cover the walls of the steam room.

Nowadays African oak, or abashi in other words, has become widespread.

It has such advantages as:

• low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• high density;
• durability;
• strength;
• does not deform;
• pleasant to the touch.

The disadvantage of abashi is its rather high price.

When covering a steam room, the lining can be mounted vertically or horizontally (for more details: “How to mount lining in a bathhouse - rules and installation sequence”). If a horizontal arrangement is chosen, then the lining should be nailed from the bottom up. This technique will prevent water from seeping into the joints.

First you need to install vertical posts, between which the insulation material will be laid. To do this, markings are made, which should start from the corner. The distance between the inner sides of the racks should be 59 cm. This step will allow you to correctly install the insulation of the required thickness.

There are some peculiarities when cladding the walls of a log bathhouse. Fastening the sheathing boards in a vertical position is quite difficult, and not everyone decides to do this work themselves. To obtain the desired result and avoid mistakes, it is necessary to process the side of the vertically located racks facing the logs. Read also: “How and with what to treat lining in a steam room - practical tips.”

To do this, you need to make a special copier. It is a thin ruler, which is pointed on one side and has holes along its entire length that match the diameter of a pencil. Take the stand and press it against the wall, then use a copier to draw and draw lines repeating the shape of the log house.

Next, the racks are processed in accordance with the drawn lines. It is enough to make sure that the stand, with a pitch of 60 cm, is tightly adjacent to the logs in several places. The vertical level must be strictly observed. The length of the contact surface should be about 2-3 cm, this will be enough. The steam room board must be treated with an antiseptic.

The next step is to attach the protective membrane. This must be done from the bottom up, and each subsequent film should overlap the already fixed one by 20-30 cm. The upper edge is attached to the logs with a stapler; for overlapping areas, one of the options is selected: glue it with tape, upholster it, or use self-adhesive tape. Read also: “How to make a steam room in a bathhouse correctly and beautifully.”

A protective film is placed under the racks installed in accordance with the markings. To do this, use a level or plumb line. Galvanized screws or nails are suitable for fixing the material to the logs. You can do without long screws: a blind hole is drilled in the rack, which should be several millimeters larger than the diameter of the screw head.

It is necessary to pull a rope from above and below the wall; it must be tied to the outer posts. This will help you align and install the interior posts.

It is necessary to stretch and level the protective film in such a way that air does not get between the open logs. Otherwise, such a mistake will lead to the fact that both the frame and lining of the steam room will begin to rot and deform, as a result, bath procedures will no longer benefit the body.

When installing corner posts, insulation material must be laid immediately.

Nuances of the interior decoration of the steam room

Before starting finishing work, it is necessary to prepare the material that will be used to finish the steam room. Before attaching it to the walls, the lining must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it will be used.

The floor in the steam room must be higher than the floor level in other rooms. The shelves are installed above the heater by about 10 cm. Benches and shelves should not have sharp corners. Only natural materials should be used inside the steam room.

It is very important to choose what kind of wood to cover the steam room with, since not all types of wood are suitable for this. You should also take into account all the finishing features of the most important room of the bathhouse, which determines whether the procedures taken will be useful.

Bathhouse lining inside: selection of material and installation

Today there are many finishing materials. However, not all of them are suitable for lining the inside of a bathhouse.

In this article we will look at how to line the inside of a bathhouse and how to do it yourself?

What material should you choose for the interior decoration of a bathhouse?

The main thing to remember when choosing material for cladding:

• the material must be environmentally friendly;
• resistant to moisture and high temperatures;
• have low thermal conductivity.

Wood can be considered one of the most suitable materials. While researching the pros and cons of different types of wood, we decided that ideal option For lining the inside of the bathhouse there is linden lining. It has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and also releases essential oils that have a beneficial effect on human health. The price for it is not much different from the price of lining made from other types of wood.

Installation of linden lining

Step 1. Preparation

First you need to prepare the tools and materials necessary for the installation process:

• Jigsaw;
• Screwdriver;
• Stapler;
• Level;
• Hammer;
• Self-tapping screws (depending on the size of the bars);
• Nails (1.2×20 mm);
• Staples;
• Bars (you need to choose bars whose thickness is slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation);
• Insulation (the most suitable option is balsat wool);
• Aluminium foil;
• Aluminum tape;
• Well, and the lining itself.

Step 2. Lathing

• The sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the position of the lining.
• We start from the ceiling of the bathhouse: we level the bars using a level, if necessary, we make substrates from wood or plywood, secure them with self-tapping screws, and install the bars at a distance of 50 - 70 cm.
• We lath the walls in the same way.
• In the places of doorways and windows around the perimeter we attach additional bars.
• Next, we treat the sheathing with an antiseptic to prevent rotting and increase service life.
• The openings between the bars, with a slight seal, are filled with insulation boards.

Step 3. Insulation and vapor barrier

Attention!
When insulating a bathhouse, use goggles and a respirator or other means to protect your eyes and face.
When insulation particles get into mucous membranes, they cause irritation.

We fasten strips of aluminum foil for a bath horizontally using a stapler, from bottom to top, overlapping the previous strip with each next by 5-10 centimeters. We glue the joints with aluminum tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vapor barrier.

Step 4. Covering the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse with clapboard

• We begin installation of the first lining from the corner and continue along the perimeter.
• Using a jigsaw, cut the lining to the required length.
• We apply the lining and secure it along its entire height using self-tapping screws.

Tip: in order to avoid chips in the lining, drill small holes in the places where you will screw in the screws.

• We insert the clamp into the groove of the lining and nail it to the sheathing using nails, as shown in the video in this article.
• We insert the next one into the groove of the installed lining, so that the lining goes all the way, we put a piece of the lining and hammer it along the entire length with a hammer. We also secure it to the sheathing using clamps.
• In the same way we continue the installation of the following linings.
• We install the lining on the ceiling in the same way as we did on the walls.
• After installing all the clapboards, close the corners using wooden skirting boards. To do this, cut the plinth to the required length and attach it to the lining using small nails.

Step 5: Surface treatment

Despite all the advantages of wood, it also has disadvantages - over time, wood, when exposed to moisture, undergoes rotting, which significantly deteriorates its appearance and reduces its service life. In order for the lining in the bathhouse to delight you with its beauty and durability for a long time, there are many materials to protect the wood from moisture, insects and other adverse environmental factors.

We will look at several types of wood processing products:

Dye

The most accessible means paint is used for processing, but it is ineffective, and its use inside a bathhouse is undesirable, since many types of paints are destroyed and release harmful substances when exposed to high temperatures.

Wood impregnation solutions

Such solutions generally do not provide comprehensive protection; their action is aimed at some specific protection, for example, there are products that have antiseptic properties, and there are also products for protecting wood from fire.

Special varnish coatings

The most suitable remedy, in our opinion, is special varnish coatings, since these compositions provide comprehensive protection against insects, cracking and moisture. In addition, with the help of such a composition you can give the lining different shades without disturbing the natural pattern of the wood, thereby helping to achieve the desired result in the design of the bathhouse.

Conclusion

So, after you have installed all the cladding elements and decided on the type protective coating, all that remains is to process everything with it wooden surfaces inside the bathhouse. One of the possible results can be seen in the photo. In this article we looked at how to line the inside of a bathhouse with linden clapboard.

How to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside: stages and cladding technology

It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for the interior decoration of a bathhouse. High temperatures and constant humidity force the use of only stress-resistant types of cladding for finishing. One of the classic ones is lining. You can find out how to line a bathhouse with clapboard inside by reading the article to the end. We will help the reader with the difficult task of interior finishing, but we will also tell you how to choose the material.

Steam room trimmed with linden clapboard, coated with heat-resistant oil

Which lining is best for a bathhouse?

Linden lining should lie unpacked before finishing

Lining for the interior decoration of a bathhouse is selected depending on the purpose of a particular room, the degree of humidity in it, the temperatures used, etc. All material is divided according to several criteria: size, what it is made from, type of wood.

You can divide the material by size :

1. Classical. It is not wide in size; it is better to mount it vertically, since the horizontal position visually lowers the already low ceiling in the bathhouse. In addition, the horizontal fastening prevents water from flowing down freely, and it accumulates in the connecting locks.
2. Eurolining. These are wider and heavier panels, more interesting in the design of the room and have the same theme quality characteristics like thin lining. On the back side of the eurolining there is a special cut that relieves stress in the product and over time the finish will not crack.

Based on their composition, the material is divided into: vinyl, plastic, wood and metal. For a bathhouse, the best option is made of wood, the rest are for finishing the facade.

Types of wood for making bath trim

The steam room finished with aspen paneling looks attractive

It is important what type of wood the product is made from. For the bathhouse, wood trim with the lowest thermal conductivity is used: linden, aspen, abashi, cedar, alder. Moreover, you can take not any cedar, but only the northern one. It contains less resin and when heated, the walls and ceiling will not begin to cry. Larch species have a lower wood density and with tactile contact in the bathhouse, the lining will be more pleasant, even at high temperatures in the steam room. Such lining costs more, but the costs will be justified. Each of the considered types is better suited for various rooms baths

Aspen: has a beautiful reddish tint and increased moisture resistance. In terms of its durability, aspen can only be compared with larch. When in contact with water, aspen wood does not collapse, but rather hardens. It is better to use it to decorate a rest room or washing area. The only negative is the high price, due to which it is not recommended for use in the steam room and dressing room.

Original version steam rooms trimmed with linden clapboard

Linden: Lining has become traditional for finishing the inside of a bathhouse. Linden does not heat up at high temperatures and has a pleasant whitish color. But the linden tree has serious drawback- if not treated with antiseptics and protective compounds, it quickly begins to darken and rot.

Cedar lining in combination with linden looks great

Cedar: This conifer tree, but its structure is of low density, so it is often used for baths. Cedar has excellent antiseptic properties and emits a pleasant odor when heated. But it is not recommended to use it in a steam room, since it still contains some percentage of resin.

Alder lining in the interior of the bathhouse looks original and modern

Alder: has a pleasant pinkish tint with a pleasant velvety texture. Holds temperature well and is not afraid of moisture. In baths can be used in any part.

When choosing lining for finishing a bath, it is better to take chamber drying Extra or AB grade. Since changes in temperature and humidity in the bath occur constantly, it is impossible to use material with inaccurate or curved shapes. But in the highest grades this is unacceptable.

Step-by-step description of the installation of lining inside baths

Aspen paneling is sewn onto the ceiling

Before finishing, you need to decide whether only the walls or the ceiling will be coated. To do this, you can look at photos of finished works and settle on the design you like.

You need to sheathe the inside of the bathhouse starting from the ceiling. Only after this the walls. But first the walls need to be waterproofed and insulated.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

Scheme of a simple version of clapboard paneling for a steam room in a bathhouse

It is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the bathhouse, especially if it is a small summer log house measuring 3x3 m. In these, only the steam room is insulated. In other cases, the entire Russian bathhouse is from the inside, including the dressing room and rest room.

As insulation, you need to choose a fire-resistant material, such as bosalt wool. It’s better not to even consider all materials like polystyrene foam. The insulation is attached to a pre-prepared sheathing on which the vapor barrier is attached. Due to the large temperature difference, condensation may accumulate on the walls; a vapor barrier will protect the insulation.

Glassine should be secured on top of this structure. It will play the role of waterproofing. All seams are glued with a special water-repellent glue. Then everything is covered with foil, it will reflect heat and prevent steam from escaping. You need to fasten the foil between the sheathing using construction stapler or buttons overlap by 10-15 cm.

Material processing

The walls of the bathhouse begin to be sheathed from the opposite corner from the entrance

Before fastening, the lining must be unpacked and kept in a bath for 1-2 days. The fact is that manufacturers, in order to protect the material after chamber drying, pack it in an airtight film. And getting into natural environment the wood absorbs moisture from the air and swells a little.

After this, you need to choose how to process the material. It is better to take a composition intended directly for baths. These contain antipyrines and moisture-resistant components.

Mounting on bath walls and ceilings

The installation of the lining begins with the ceiling trim. The first strip should be mounted opposite the door. There are two ways to attach links to the bathhouse:

1. Use small nails to the main sheathing in a groove at an angle of 45 0. Such fastening will be invisible and the ceiling will look like a single system. You shouldn’t hammer the lining tightly together; when it’s wet, it will swell and the entire structure will warp, or it will simply pull away from the wall in separate sections. By leaving a gap, the lining gains space for natural movement.
2. Use small nails through the lining to the sheathing. This method is more suitable for eurolining. First, small recesses are drilled in each attached link, and then a nail is driven into them. These places are covered with wood plugs and PVA glue.

Since the lining is thin, it is inconvenient to hammer in the entire nail with a hammer. To simplify, use a tool - a puncher

You need to start attaching the links to the wall from the most visible corner to the door. They install it using exactly the same methods as on the ceiling.

There should be a ventilated gap of 4-5 cm between the lining and the walls. A gap of 3-4 cm should also be left between the walls and the ceiling. In order for air to pass well under the lining, tonic strips are attached to the main sheathing. This second sheathing will be attached to finishing material. The pitch of the sheathing is 40-50 cm. The direction is perpendicular to the fastening of the sheathing.

After fixing the bath, warm it up thoroughly and see what happens after it cools down. Incorrectly fastened links are additionally reinforced with nails.

Subtleties of finishing inside the bath

1. Do not mount the lining horizontally in the washing room and steam room. Splashes of water will enter the lock, and the lining will quickly darken. But if the design requires horizontal fastening, then the tenon should point upward.
2. All fasteners must be taken with a zinc coating, since iron will quickly rust if exposed to moisture.
3. All fastening corners and strips at the top need to be slightly sharpened at the bottom, so the water droplets will go down faster.
4. The planks are attached 4-5 cm from the base, so as not to block the ventilated gap.
5. Consider a ventilation system in the bathhouse, so the moisture will evaporate faster and the lining will last longer.
6. If the lining turns black, it must be immediately treated with bleaching compounds, for example, Senezh Sauna

We looked at how to do the interior decoration of a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands. By following all the techniques and watching the thematic video in this article, even a beginner will be able to do the job with his own hands.

How to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands?

Wood is an ideal finishing material for a bath

The Russian bathhouse is primarily known for the presence of abundant steam indoors. This effect occurs due to the bare logs being cut without any special treatment. Heat retention in Ancient Rus' was achieved by creating especially dense and massive walls, which could absorb moisture from the air and retain it for a long time. In addition, such walls were needed to transfer heat inside the bathhouse. Many people heard the loud hissing of the walls, which is why various stories arose in Rus'. In fact, the hissing came from the wood, which absorbed moisture vapor and set in motion the condensation effect. Most people tried to build a bathhouse from the thickest logs, as this ensured high-quality heating.

In those days, it took a long time to heat a bathhouse, about 4 hours. It should be remembered that wood is a hygroscopic material, which is why it quickly becomes unusable. Back then it was the cheapest and most widespread resource. But today everything has changed radically. Modern bathhouse requires a special approach to wall decoration. The main goal now is to significantly reduce heat energy costs and speed up the heating time. At the moment, bathhouse finishing is most often carried out using a special material - lining. You should know how to line a bathhouse with clapboards with high quality, so as not to have problems in the future.

Heating a steam room with clapboard becomes much easier, firewood is consumed in small quantities. The only drawback is that the sauna does not retain heat so well, so you have to use fuel much more often. Steam creation occurs thanks to modern stoves and steam generators. At the same time, you need to constantly monitor its supply and control the presence of heat inside the room.

How to choose the type of lining

High-quality lining prevents the formation of various bacteria, mold and mildew, while controlling the level of humidity inside the bath itself. The main requirements for the material are high moisture resistance and environmental safety.

Initially, bathhouse lining was made in quarter and tongue-and-groove. Because of this, over time, the slats shifted and the compressed joints were destroyed. At the moment, almost all lining is made in the groove and in the tongue.

Advice from the master!

It is important to know: to save money, try to search and purchase 1.5 m long lining at building materials warehouses. She's worth a lot cheaper material 2 m. Processing lining with this length in a bathhouse is quite simple. It is only necessary to sheathe the joint with a lath. At the same time, you will save a lot on building materials.

Panel fastening schemes

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard can be done in 2 ways: vertical and horizontal. Most experienced bathhouse attendants agree that clapboarding a bathhouse using the vertical method is not best idea. The reason for this is the different temperature of the wood below and above, which will directly affect the service life of the material. Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard horizontally will contribute to a more uniform distribution of temperature. In addition, horizontal cladding allows you to visually increase the height of the wall in a small steam room.

Advantages of horizontal sauna lining.

1. If the floors darken, you can easily change the lining in the right place.
2. Thanks to the presence of a vertical frame, the bathhouse will be protected from the inside from rats, mice and other rodents.
3. Installing horizontal cladding is several times easier than installing vertical cladding.
4. Liquid does not seep between the joints of the boards, the lining dries much better, which helps extend its service life.
5. Ventilation outside the lining is carried out better due to the presence of a vertical frame. In addition, the space under the lining also becomes ventilated.

Please note: in case of fastening the lining along horizontal scheme it is necessary to direct the groove downwards.

Advantages of vertical sauna cladding.

1. The bathhouse becomes more like a sauna due to higher temperatures and dry air.
2. Due to the absence of splashes, liquid will not seep between the joints of the boards, and accordingly, the wood will not darken.
3. For good ventilation, it is enough to drill small holes under the lining.

Installation of finishing material

By weighing the benefits of each scheme, you can choose the most suitable option. Remember that the horizontal cladding method will allow you to achieve the effect of a real Russian bathhouse.

Advice from the master!

Finishing the bathhouse with clapboard in a vertical pattern will, in turn, ensure the presence of high temperatures. You will have a real sauna.

How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard: detailed instructions

The sheathing procedure consists of 4 stages, each of which does not take very much time. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands is a simple process. Follow the instructions on how to properly sheathe with clapboard interior spaces steam room, and you will succeed.

Stage 1: preparation for work

Before installing the lining inside the bathhouse, you need to carry out preparatory work. If there are differences in the walls, you need to smooth them out with putty. Ceiling and wall coverings are treated with antifungal mixtures. Then the electrical wiring and piping are placed. After purchasing the lining, you need to take it into the bathhouse and leave it there for a couple of days so that it gets used to the atmosphere of the room.

Stage 2: frame installation

Wood blocks are used as a frame. Their size is selected based on the density of the insulation.

Frame for installing lining

Then you need to attach the bars randomly on the wall and mark points on it for mounting metal hangers. The bars are placed in a row and the distance between them should be about 44-48 cm.

It is important to know: it is desirable that the metal parts are made of galvanized iron. If other materials are used, after a while traces of rust appear on the wood. Wooden blocks also need to be treated with an antifungal mixture so that the lining is protected from harmful bacteria on all sides.

Holes for dowels are drilled and metal hangers are secured. Wooden blocks are attached to them. Various fastening options can be used, depending on the method of fixing the lining. Keep in mind that there must be good ventilation between the bars. Near door and window openings, the bars must be mounted vertically with a distance of 25 mm from the edges.

It is important to know: the first row of the frame should begin with longer bars, and shorter ones are attached to the next row. The entire frame must be in the same plane. When installing, keep an eye on each row. In case of a large difference, material is placed under the block to act as a gasket.

Stage 3: laying thermal insulation

Before the final lining of the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to lay thermal insulation underneath it. It must be laid between wooden blocks. Many people are accustomed to using it as a heat insulator. mineral wool. It is worth knowing that this type of insulation cannot cope with high levels of humidity. It is recommended to pay attention to foam glass. This heat insulator has good moisture repellency and does a good job of retaining heat. At the same time, foam glass is completely harmless to humans. In addition, there is no need to lay on top of it vapor barrier material. But if in doubt, you can use this type of insulator. It is glued with an overlap using tape.

Stage 4: attaching the lining

When starting to cover the inside of the bathhouse, you need to cut the lining. After this, you should cut off the tenon at the first segment and place it in the right place.

The final stage is applying an antiseptic

Sheathing should begin from the corner side. It is recommended to use clamps for strengthening. First, they must be driven into the groove of the segment, and then installed in the frame. Each subsequent segment is superimposed on part of the previous one and is also driven in.

At the end of the finishing work, it is necessary to apply a protective layer to the lining sections. For this, oil mixtures or wax are used. Caring for the lining of the lining requires special care. It is necessary to exclude treatment with solvents and abrasive materials.

Advice from the master!

If the segment is severely damaged, it must be replaced. Do not forget to periodically renew the protective layer on the surface of the lining. You can evaluate the finished bathhouse, lined with clapboard, by studying the presented photos.