Construction adobe houses started in ancient times. Saman is natural material, which is based on clay soil dried in the sun. This material is used for the construction of houses and fences in dry climates. Today from construction portal we will talk in detail about this material and find out the pros and cons of the structures that were built from it.

What is adobe and how is it made?

The inhabitants of Europe built houses from adobe in the 15th century. At that time, ordinary peasants and wealthy townspeople lived in adobe houses. The material was popular even in Russia. The Prilratsky Palace in Gatchina was built from adobe, which exists even today.

Adobe is usually made in the spring. This is done so that the building can dry completely within summer period. Made from adobe clay soil, which is diluted with water and thoroughly mixed. Various additives are also added to the solution. For example, it could be:

1. straw,
2. wood shavings,
3. cement,
4. sand,
5. gravel and other components.

To dry the adobe, special forms are built. For this purpose, ordinary boards are used. Boxes without a bottom are made from boards. The boxes can have single or double walls. Before putting adobe into boxes, their walls are moistened with water and chaff from grain waste after threshing. This is done so that the clay does not stick to the walls of the boxes.

As soon as the boxes are ready, you can lay the clay solution in them. To do this, you usually take a lump of clay that matches the size of the box. The clay is placed or thrown with force to better sealing. After which the solution is leveled. If excess material is formed, it is removed and transferred to another box. Now the solution is left alone for 3 full days. To dry adobe, you need to choose the right platform that will receive a sufficient amount of sun rays. In this process, one must not forget that such material is afraid of heavy rains. Therefore, in order to protect the material from exposure to rain, it must be placed under a canopy.

Please read the publication: How to choose a watering hose

If 3 days pass, the bricks must be removed from the molds and placed on edge. The adobe bricks should remain in this position for up to 7 days. It is worth saying that high-quality adobe does not break when dropped from a height of two meters. Also, it should not soak in water for 1 or 2 days.

What are the advantages of adobe houses?

Adobe house can be called a unique home. Therefore, now it is necessary to name all the pros and cons of such a structure. So, adobe buildings are different high level thermal insulation. So, rooms that were built from self do not need additional heating in winter. In addition, such housing can retain coolness in hot weather. It turns out that the adobe house method is as follows. Warm and cold air passes through dense walls at a speed of 2.5 cm per hour. Therefore, in the summer the building accumulates heat, and at night it is returned back. The material - adobe - can be used to build houses in absolutely any area. In areas with severe and cold winds, adobe houses need to be given a streamlined shape. It should be noted that such a house design will reduce the level of heat transfer and the entry of icy air.

• The walls, which were built from adobe blocks, do not allow extraneous noise into the room.
• Saman is not afraid of fire. It follows that houses from such material can be built even in the most fire-prone areas. And in order to completely protect the object from fire, you need to use earth and clay when constructing the roof.
• Clay has good hygroscopicity. Therefore, the room will maintain stable humidity regardless of the time of year.
• An adobe house is environmentally friendly clean building. Therefore, such a home cannot harm human health in any way.
• Houses made of adobe are accessible and have a low price. The raw material for adobe can be found underfoot. Moreover, you can save your money on firing finished material. And all because adobe brick does not need such a procedure.
• Adobe is a durable building material. Houses and buildings built from this material will last for millennia.
• Saman is best material for beginning builders. It is worth saying that to work with this material you will need the most common tools.
• Today you can build a variety of buildings from adobe bricks. Indeed, such material is suitable for the construction of even ultra-modern houses.

Stages of building a house made of adobe bricks

Adobe houses are relatively unpopular these days. However, the technology for their construction is as follows.

1. Parameters of the future home. Currently, huge apartments, which are equipped with a significant number of additional premises. But it is best to build functional houses with the least amount of additional premises. Each adobe house should have several important rooms: a kitchen, a bathroom, a living room, a bedroom and a children's room. Optimal height walls will be within 2.5 - 2.7 m.
2. The type of roof of the future house. For an adobe house, you can choose a classic or mansard roof. The classic roof is usually equipped with non-residential attic space with insulated floor. This roof is easy to install and easy to maintain in the future. Mansard roof refers to inventions of the 20th century. It is insulated and a living space is made underneath it. The mansard roof will allow you to expand living space and make it comfortable to live in. It must be said that repairing such a roof will require not only additional effort, but also money.
3. The number of floors of the future house. Most comfortable home has one floor for living. Indeed, with such a house you can save your money on building a massive staircase. A two-story house is a more economical option. The roof will require serious expenses in this process. A house that has 2 residential floors will save useful space on plot of land. However, to construct such a facility, additional efforts will have to be expended.
4. Garage, cellar and basement of the future home. Some construction experts recommend replacing basement above ground room. Such a room, if necessary, can be converted into Personal Area or bedroom. If you are planning to build a cellar, it is recommended to build it separately from the main house. When building a cellar, it is important to take into account the terrain and dig it down a slope. When constructing a cellar, ventilation should play an important role. It is best to attach a garage to one of the walls of the constructed house. If the car is used frequently, you can move the gate and garage door directly to the street.
5. Foundation. For modern construction They construct strip and slab foundations using reinforced concrete. Slab foundation suitable for buildings that will have a basement and a first floor located below ground level. Strip foundations are used for the construction of buildings that will not have rooms located below ground level. At the same time, everything load-bearing floor must rest on a flat foundation surface.
6. Basement of the future house. The base is the lower part external wall, which prevents contact of adobe with various natural phenomena, which may be surface water, snow and ice. The base is erected slightly above the level of rising water and 30 cm above ground level. The floor is made below the level of the base by 15 cm. For the construction of the floor it is better to use: concrete, brick or rubble stone.
7. Walls of an adobe house. Adobe can be: light and heavy. To make lightweight adobe, straw soaked in clay is used. To produce heavy adobe, sand, straw and clay are used.

There are three ways to build adobe brick walls.

Windows and doors. Experienced builders advise incorporating doors and windows during the construction process. However, it is best to install such elements after the adobe has completely dried. And if the opening is small enough, then it is recommended to increase it by cutting the adobe.

How to lay adobe flooring. A monolithic adobe floor retains heat well and at the same time allows you to save money on energy costs. If the material is professionally laid, then scratches and stains will not form on it during use. Before constructing an adobe floor, it is necessary to remove the layer of fertile soil and replace it with stones and crushed stone. The materials should be sprinkled with expanded clay and gravel on top. You can build a rammed or cast floor in your home.

The construction of a residential building can be reduced several times in cost if you use adobe for the construction of walls. It is not difficult to make, besides, this material has good thermal insulation and is the most environmentally friendly. In appearance, a do-it-yourself adobe house is no worse than a brick or wooden one, if you choose the right finish.

The strength of the structure directly depends on the quality of the adobe. Low density blocks, their humidity, irregular shape - all this complicates the installation process and reduces the reliability of the structure. It is necessary to make adobe in advance, because construction will require a lot of blocks, and it takes time to form and dry the material.

To make adobe blocks you will need:

• straw;
• clay;
• water;
• large mixing capacity;
• boards;
• nails;
• hammer and hacksaw.

Step 1. Assembling the adobe mold

A box without a bottom measuring 35x18x14 cm is knocked down from boards 2 cm thick. The mold can be made double, but lifting it will be too difficult. Boards should be chosen as smooth as possible, preferably with smooth surface. Standard sizes for adobe, no, but the specified parameters are the most practical.

Step 2. Preparing drying areas

To properly dry the adobe, you will need to prepare 2 platforms. To do this, lay racks of brick or wooden beams, and shields made of tightly knit boards are attached to them. A canopy is built over the first platform, while the second is left under open air, but they are paved at a slight slope.

Step 3. Preparation of material

The most important component of adobe is clay. Not only straw is used as filler, but also wood shavings, dry grass, sand, gravel and cement. The clay must be clean, without impurities, very plastic and durable. Checking whether the clay on the site is suitable for construction is very simple: dilute a little clay with water and roll it into a ball. If it dries and does not crack or break when dropped from a height of 2 m, the clay can be used. It should be noted that 1000 blocks require about 10 cubic meters of clay, so you need to prepare a sufficient amount in advance.

It is better to take straw from last year, not fresh, with a length of 9 to 16 cm. Finely chopped straw is unsuitable for these purposes. To increase the strength of the blocks and increase their water resistance, it is recommended to add lime to the composition. The standard ratio of clay to straw is 4:6, but the proportions may vary depending on the type of adobe. In light clay there is 10% less clay, in heavy clay there is 10-20% more than normal.

Step 4. Forming and drying blocks

You can prepare the solution for adobe directly on the ground by clearing a 2x2 m area and making a depression in the center. For small quantity A container in the form of a trough with low sides is suitable for building materials; you can also assemble a frame from boards 3 cm thick and cover it with galvanized sheets. In such a container, the solution will not mix with the soil; in case of rain, it will not be difficult to cover everything plastic film.

The mixture is prepared as follows: pour clay, add water to it, mix well and leave for 12-20 hours. This will allow the clay to acquire maximum viscosity and plasticity. Then add straw or other filler and knead thoroughly. Usually mixing such a solution is done with your feet - it is quite difficult to do it manually. Ready mixture Leave for a few more hours to ensure uniform impregnation of all components.

To mold adobe, take a flat wide board, place the mold on it, moisten the surfaces generously with water and sprinkle with sand and dry fine straw. Scoop up the solution with your hands and tamp it into the mold, making sure to compact the corners. Excess material is cleaned off with a trowel or a piece of thin wire, and then the block is pierced in 3-5 places with a sharp stick. This is necessary for the adobe to dry evenly.

The open area is sprinkled with straw, sawdust or sand and the workpiece is laid out on it. Here, the opinions of experienced builders are divided: some recommend leaving the block in the mold for at least 3 days, others advise immediately removing the mold and drying it flat for 24 hours, and turning it upside down for 3-4 days. In any case, when drying, there should be free space between the blocks for air circulation. It’s easy to check the adobe for readiness: if a block thrown from a height of 2 m does not break or soak in water for 2-4 hours, it can be used for construction.

Construction of the foundation

For an adobe house you should choose flat area with low groundwater levels and dense soil. It is advisable to make the house itself one-story, without a basement or cellar. If space allows, it is better to build a cellar and other utility structures at some distance from the home.

For the foundation you will need:

• large crushed stone;
• broken brick or stone;
• clay;
• sand;
• fittings;
• cement mortar;
• building level;
• boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• wooden spacers;
• polyethylene film.

Step 1. Digging a trench

Trench under strip foundation should be 15-20 cm wider than the thickness of the wall. Walls made of light adobe are 30-35 cm thick, and those made of heavy adobe are about 60 cm. A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future house and in the locations of the internal load-bearing walls. The depth of the internal trenches is 70-80 cm, the depth of the external ones should be 10 cm greater than the freezing level of the soil. Typically this value is 1.2-1.5 m.

Step 2. Pouring the foundation

A sand cushion 15 cm thick is laid at the bottom of the trench, and on top it is covered with stone, broken brick, crushed stone, not reaching the top about 25 cm. Reinforcing bars are driven between the stones at a distance so that they rise by 20 cm, and then the foundation is poured with a liquid clay solution . If the soil on the site is not very stable, the clay is replaced with cement mortar.

Formwork is assembled from boards, covered with plastic film and installed inside the trenches. From the outside, the formwork is reinforced with spacers made of beams. After this, the structure is checked with a level, the reinforcement frame is mounted and secured between the boards. It's all poured in concrete mortar, level the surface and cover with film.

Construction of walls

After hardening, the surface of the foundation is covered with two layers of roofing material and glued bitumen mastic. This waterproofing will protect the adobe blocks from excess moisture.

Laying out the walls begins from the corner of the facade; masonry, as for brick, is done in a checkerboard pattern. A mixture of clay and sand is used as a binding solution.

Step 1. Construction of the lower rows

It is allowed to erect 2-3 rows of blocks in one day. If you put more, the adobe may shift under the load and the wall will be uneven. Having laid the first row, you need to determine the location doorways and leave free space between blocks. Install door and window boxes not recommended, since when drying, adobe shrinks by 3-5%. Every 2 rows you need to check the walls horizontally and vertically to prevent distortions in the structure. At the window level, the construction process becomes a little more complicated.

Step 2. Laying jumpers

Leaving openings for the windows, the masonry is raised to a height window frame and begin making jumpers. To do this, take boards 5 cm thick and knock them down into panels, the width of which is equal to the width of the walls, and the length is 30 cm greater than the width of the window. The shields are treated with an antiseptic and dried, and then wrapped in roofing material and secured with staplers.

The finished lintels are laid flat over window openings so that they cover 15 cm of the wall on both sides. A beam is placed inside the opening and the lintel is supported with it. Next, they continue laying on top of the shields until they reach the top of the doorway. They install it above him in exactly the same way. wooden shield and lay out another 1-2 rows of the wall.

To reduce the load from rafter system on adobe, the roof must be made quite steep - at least 30 degrees, and preferably 45. The recommended length of the roof overhangs is approximately 70 cm. The best option The roof for an adobe house is a straight gable roof. During installation attic structure the load on the walls increases significantly.

To install the rafter system you will need:

• wooden beams;
• timber with a section of 150x100;
• boards 30x250 mm;
• waterproofing film;
• insulation;
• roof covering;
• primer;
• fasteners;
• level;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• hacksaw.

Step 1. Installation of ceilings

When laying the last two rows of walls between the blocks, holes are left for the ceiling beams. In the places where the wood adheres to the adobe, the beams are wrapped with roofing material and coated with mastic. They should protrude quite a bit beyond the perimeter of the wall, about 2-4 cm. The beams are laid at a distance of 1-1.5 m. After this, another row of blocks is erected and the assembly of the rafter system proceeds.

Step 2: Installing the rafters

On ceiling beams they stuff the sheathing boards. The beams at the ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees and connected to each other. Having strengthened the structure in the middle with a jumper, lift it up and install it above the side wall. The rest of the rafters are placed in the same way and connected longitudinal beams. Between ceiling covering and rafter lintels are additionally installed support posts, nail the gables.

Step 3. Attaching waterproofing

The rafter system must be protected with a waterproofing layer. You can use roofing felt, plastic film or a special membrane for this. Attaching the hydraulic barrier begins from below along the eaves of the house. The material should sag slightly between the beams, so it should not be stretched too much. Adjacent pieces of film are overlapped and taped at the seams with construction tape. If roofing material is chosen as protection, the joints are coated with mastic or resin.

Step 4. Roof insulation

Suitable for roof insulation mineral wool, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam boards. To lay the thermal insulation layer, first install a timber sheathing. Insulation boards are inserted between the cells of the frame, compacted, and the cracks are filled with foam. After this, the roofing covering is fastened, the eaves are screwed in, and the snow guards are installed.

Facade finishing

The walls of adobe houses require mandatory finishing. An unprotected surface will become wet from rain and snow, be destroyed by mechanical damage, and blown away by the wind. As a finish, you can use waterproof, vapor-permeable plaster based on lime, acrylic or silicate. To do this, a reinforcing mesh is attached to the wall, and plaster is applied to it. You can cover the facade with siding, wood, or special tiles.

Inside the house, the walls are covered with plasterboard, clapboard or plastered. The floor is compacted, logs are laid on top and boards are laid. Can be done concrete screed and lay linoleum, laminate, or any other covering on it.

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Many people would like to spend a minimum amount of money on good project. In fact, this is reality, not a myth. To check this, you need to learn how to build an adobe house yourself. To implement such a project you will need desire. Construction materials, one might say, are already underfoot.

Is everything so rosy?

Before taking the first steps towards the implementation of the project, it is necessary to analyze, having learned everything about the pitfalls that you may encounter on the way to the desired goal. The following arguments can be put on the positive side of the scale:

• free components of building blocks;
• there is no need to use special equipment;
• excellent thermal insulation;
• ideal vapor permeability;
• ease of construction;
• good sound insulation;
• service life can be 100 years.

The other side of the scale:

• poor resistance to moisture;
• in some cases there is a high probability of ignition;
• high labor costs in the manufacture of blocks;
• such designs are loved by rodents;

Building such a house is more of a creative process. There are basic principles, but there are no perfectly precise guidelines to follow. You are not tied to any particular form. There is an advantage of complete independent design literally everything.

What is adobe

Construction technology arose several thousand years ago, when there were no factories for the production of concrete floors, cement, etc. People used what was available and widespread. But it cannot be said that construction from adobe is an outdated method. On the contrary, there are names that are used in everyday life: clay concrete, raw brick, etc.

So what is it? In the classical sense, it is a mixture of water, straw and clay. Various plant stems (usually fibrous) can be used as filler. Additives from sand, animal manure, lime and ordinary soil may be present. Today, cement, plasticizers, synthetic fibers, antiseptic compounds and much more have begun to be added to the mixture. All this is in order to improve certain qualities and compensate for shortcomings.

Component analysis

As noted above, the main component is clay. But not every one is suitable for high-quality work. To prevent cracks from forming later, the clay should not be too greasy. Also, it should not be too dry, otherwise there will be no good setting, and all efforts will go down the drain. It can be brought to order or obtained independently. In the second case, you will save significantly, but you will need to analyze its quality. To do this you will need:

• Determine what depth it is at clay layer. This can be done experimentally by digging a hole and looking at the cut. Or you can obtain data from land managers in your area.
• For further actions you will need to take 3 or more glass bottles, liquid soap or salt and water.
• In several places of the planned fence using hand drill wells are being made. Usually it is necessary to go deeper by 1-1.5 m.
• A sign is installed on each pit so as not to confuse the place from which the sample was taken.
• The clay is crushed and placed at the bottom of the jar. Each vessel is also marked with a mark that corresponds to the well used.
• Add 40 g of salt or 200 g liquid soap, the jar is filled to the top with water and closed with a plastic lid.
• It is necessary to shake it with sufficient force for 10 minutes so that the clay dissolves well. If there are still pieces of soil inside, then you need to leave the suspension for a while so that it soaks well.
• Now you need to select the most flat surface possible and place the jars on it. It is better if it is some kind of elevation, for example, a table, then it will be more convenient to conduct observations.
• After waiting a minute, you can see the first sediment that has fallen - this is coarse sand or silt. Now you need to make a mark using a marker, electrical tape or other suitable material.
• After 10 minutes or a little more, the next layer begins to settle - this is fine sand, the last one to sink to the bottom is clay.
• When the water has already become as clear as possible and there are no floating particles left in it, another mark is made for the upper level of sediment.
• Measurement is taken from the bottom to the top mark. Where the value is greatest, that material is the best. By the number you can determine from which well the fence was made.

This method does not take much effort and time, but makes it possible to assess the composition as accurately as possible. building material. The highest indicator is the composition that contains the least amount of fine sand impurities. Ideal option is an area where there are layers of red clay; it has excellent plasticity, which greatly facilitates the preparation of the solution.

There are some signs by which you can determine the places where clay exactly lies:

• Near rivers and lakes.
• Swampy area where there is a small layer of water. The liquid is held in place by a layer of clay, which prevents it from being completely absorbed.
• You can determine it by the water level in the well. If it is low, then most likely this area is also suitable.
• Clay soils are a favorite place for sedge and mint to grow. Therefore, if they are abundantly present, one can judge the possible presence of high-quality material.
• It would be useful to ask those who have already built a house from adobe or are engaged in laying stoves.

Clay is the main, but not the only component. The filler plays an important role. His choice must also be taken seriously. The most the best option there will be stalks from winter wheat. This is due to the presence of a large amount of waxy substance. It repels moisture and prevents rotting, which is a must. The same cannot be said for spring crops. The stems must be from a fresh harvest.

If it is not possible to prepare stems from a fresh harvest, then the main requirement will be that they are well dried and free from fungus or rot. In the absence of straw, hay can be used, but it must be made from grasses that have a hard stem. You can use linen, but it is advisable not to use synthetic fibers.

When choosing sand, do not stop at sea sand. The fact is that it has rounded shapes, which will have a bad effect on the viscosity of the final product. Usually, quarry coarse grain is chosen. It doesn’t matter if in your case you can’t find such an option. It is undesirable, but it can be replaced with ordinary river one.

The clay itself has a high viscosity, so it is a little problematic to dig it out and then mix it with the necessary components. To make your task easier, you need to think about the preparation in advance. This is usually done in the fall. In winter, under the influence of frost and absorbed moisture, the material breaks down into smaller parts that are easier to work with. Preparatory stage is carried out as follows:

• From edged boards(you can use other durable material that will be resistant to moisture) the box gets knocked down. Its dimensions can be, for example, 1x1.5x2 m (height, width and length).
• Clay is placed in the middle. In order to ensure the required effect in the future, it must be placed in layers of 30 cm. After laying each, the surface is generously moistened with water.
• You need to leave a gap of 20 cm to the top. It is closed with straw. It will serve as a barrier to liquid evaporation in warm weather.
• The entire structure is covered with roofing felt or thick polyethylene film. In this state, the material is left throughout the winter so that the required natural processes can occur.
• In the spring, when the temperature begins to rise and is not below freezing during the day, it is necessary to open the pile and remove the straw. After this, you need to tighten the film again. In this case, some semblance of a greenhouse effect will occur, which will contribute to the rapid freezing of the material, and will also prevent it from drying out, maintaining elasticity and adhesiveness.

There are a large number of tables that show what ratio of components should be. But the fact is that depending on the area, the clay itself will differ significantly. What would be an ideal in one case may be a negative solution in another. This is explained by the fact that it is often difficult to predict shrinkage parameters.

It is better to determine the quality of the prepared mixture experimentally. First of all, clay and sand are mixed. Water is added in portions so that the composition remains sufficiently thick. Take a small part and roll it into a ball in your palms. If during this procedure the product sticks and some remains on your hands, then you need to add more sand. If it is not possible to form a lump, then you need to add more clay. The second part of the test is carried out after the ball has frozen. It must be thrown up and allowed to fall freely to the ground. If its shape has not changed and no cracks have appeared, then you can begin making the main blocks. In the case when it crumbled into pieces, you need to add clay, changed shape, but remained intact - more sand.

These steps helped determine the optimal proportions for a particular case. Next, you can move on to preparing the bulk for construction. Kneading can be done in a construction trough, on a dense plastic film or tarpaulin. It will be most convenient to do this in a pit. It is necessary to dig a hole 50 cm deep. The length of the hole is 1.5 m, the width is 2.5 m. It should not be filled to the brim, but to a height of 30–35 cm. If you make the layer larger, then it will be difficult to mix efficiently, which will lead to to the low quality of the final product. If the specified dimensions are observed, in one output it will be possible to produce about 60 blocks with dimensions of 20 × 20 × 40 cm.

Before laying each component, it is necessary to prepare the hole well. To do this, its bottom and walls are compacted using available means. The entire area is covered with film so that there is an overlap on the surface, which will prevent it from slipping. First of all, clay is poured in; its layer should be 20–25 cm. The space on top is covered with water so that the clay is completely submerged. Everything is left in this state overnight. This is necessary so that the material becomes as pliable as possible and all lumps are softened. The next day, before starting preparations, you need to trample the clay well so that the water passes to the lower layers. Next, sand is added, mixed well, then straw.

In order to speed up the process, a pit can be made large sizes, and the mixing of the components is carried out not by people, but by animals, for example, horses. But we must remember that it will have to be constantly directed, because it will follow in its own footsteps, as a result of which the kneading will not take place. You can use mechanical means, for example, a walk-behind tractor, but it is worth considering that a large amount of clay will stick to the wheels, which is difficult to clean. If this is to be done in a concrete mixer, then 2 or 3 stones up to 10 kg are placed first, they will ensure good mixing of sand and clay. Straw will need to be added not in containers, but during external mixing.

As written above, the optimal size for blocks is 20x20x40 cm. But before moving on to making the final form, you need to make a trial one. It is usually made from edged boards 3 cm thick. Inner space must correspond to the size of the future brick. The surface must be well sanded so that the solution can be easily separated. A small batch is made and several blocks are made. They are left for 7 days, after which the sides are measured to calculate how much drying has occurred. The final molds can be made to accommodate this gap.

Before pouring the mixture into the mold, it is necessary to moisten the walls with water and sprinkle with sawdust or other suitable substance. Inside, the clay is well compacted to remove all voids as much as possible. After removing the molding sample, the bricks are left for 3 days; it is better to cover them with film, roofing felt or slate. There must be space between them so that they do not lie end to end. After this period, all elements are transferred under a canopy and stored for another 10–15 days until fully prepared.

What's at the bottom

Ultimately, blocks made from clay are lighter in weight than similar ones made from cement or silicate. Therefore, there is no need for them to build a massive foundation, but we must not forget that the condition of the soil in a particular area is also a determining factor. In order to make a base with a slight recess, you will need to carry out the following work:

• The site is marked according to the plan drawing. And it is cleared of debris.
• A fishing line is stretched and secured, which will serve as a guide when excavating soil. It is best to stretch two for each side to the width of the future foundation. In this case, it is more difficult to move and easier to maintain the required dimensions.
• The diagonals must be checked, because they allow you to maintain the correct geometry.
• A trench is dug to a depth of 70 cm. adobe is a very plastic material that can be molded as you go, that is, it is possible to make semi-arches or rounded corners.
• The bottom is well compacted, sand is poured to a height of 20–25 cm, compacted, moistened with water, the missing level is filled in and compacted again.
• The internal walls are closed using roofing felt. It is laid in such a way that it can be folded onto the surface with an overlap of at least 10 cm.
• Formwork is displayed, which can be made from edged boards or laminated plywood. It is well secured with spacers and jibs.
• Stands under the sheathing are placed on the bottom. Their height should be at least 5 cm so that the concrete covers it from below.
• The metal frame is made of reinforcement with ribs, the diameter of which is 12 mm. Its height is selected taking into account the size of the foundation, and also so that it is at least 5 cm recessed into the concrete. Transverse rods are attached every 40 cm. The fastest way would be to connect all the components using a knitting wire.
• Poured concrete mixture and is well compacted using a vibrator. It also needs to be leveled with a trowel or a rule so that you get approximately the same plane around the entire perimeter.
• It will take about a month for the structure to reach its full strength. This time can be spent on making the required number of blocks.
• Several layers of roofing material must be laid on top, which are coated with bitumen mastic. This will prevent the walls from getting wet.

We build walls

It is a pleasure to build from such material. It can be easily cut to the required size using an axe. In order for the walls to be smooth, the following requirements must be met:

• Masonry, like any other block material, starts from the corners. To do this, you must first determine the highest level. This is done using a hydraulic level. One part of it is installed in one of the corners, and the second moves along the rest, where the spread is higher, and you should start from there.
• Using a bubble level, the first block is aligned in all planes. It will serve as a guide. The rest are already being exhibited based on it. This is done using the same water level.
• A mixture of clay and sand is used as a binding solution. Their ratio is 1:1.
• The thickness of the seam should not exceed 1 cm. In this case, it will be possible to ensure ideal thermal insulation properties.
• As you move forward, it is necessary to ensure that the seams are interlaced, as is done in conventional masonry. Then the wall turns out to be monolithic.
• Every fifth row can be laid metal mesh which will give greater strength.
• The horizontal plane is controlled with a stretched string, and the vertical plane with the help of a building level.
• At the masonry stage, it is necessary to determine the location of window and door openings and mark them. Jumpers are made from boards 10 cm thick or more. Its length should be such that it extends 15 cm into the masonry on each side. At first, it is supported by beams from below; after the mortar has dried, they can be removed.
• After the walls have been completely demolished, they need to be plastered as quickly as possible to protect them from the effects of adverse weather conditions.
• The outside walls can be sheathed with any facing material. It is advisable to install a vapor-permeable barrier underneath it, which will prevent moisture accumulation and provide the necessary drying.
• WITH inside also, the entire area is covered with a vapor barrier; its throughput should be lower than that of what is located outside.
• It is advisable not to install windows and doors right away. It is necessary that the entire structure undergo drying and shrinkage, only after this it will be possible to select the required parameters.

It is better not to build more than two rows in one day. This is due to the fact that each new one adds weight, which can lead to the destruction of the lower blocks. The height of the walls must be made with a margin, by which shrinkage will subsequently occur. The approximate figure was obtained during the manufacture of trial blocks.

Lightweight design

In addition to the method described above, which requires the production and laying of blocks, there is another option. Its construction is much faster and the costs of organizing a foundation for it will be much lower. But in this case, you will additionally need to stock up on wood. The general principle will be similar to the construction frame building.

In this case, you can use columnar or pile foundation. For the second option, you can purchase ready-made screw elements. They dive to a depth below freezing of the soil. They should be placed at a distance of one meter from each other. A separate line should also be made for the partitions. Their upper part should be approximately 30 cm above the surface level. The ends are leveled and a square penny measuring 25x25 cm is welded on top. All elements are connected to each other using wooden grillage. To make it you will need a beam measuring 15x15 cm or 20x20 cm.

For columnar foundation At a distance of one meter, holes are dug to a level below freezing of the soil. Formwork is installed inside and laid metal lathing. The solution is poured and compacted well. The size of one element can be 40×40 cm or 50×50 cm. The same is done on top wooden base, as in the previous case.

Light walls

To build walls you will need beams measuring 5x7.5 cm or 10x7.5 cm, for corner beams - 15x15 cm or 20x20 cm.

• First, the corner supports are installed. They are fixed using finger joint and nails or metal corners.
• Additional vertical racks are installed. Two beams of the required height are connected by a crossbar, the length of which is equal to the width of the grillage. Such crossbars are mounted every meter. The space between them will subsequently be filled with adobe.
• Performed top harness, which will unite all the racks with each other.
• Mounted roofing system and flooring.
• A liquid solution is made from clay and water.
• The prepared straw is soaked in this composition and left for a while to drain a little.
• Formwork made from edged boards is installed on the walls.
• Moistened straw is placed inside this formwork and compacted well.
• As the formwork dries, it is moved higher and higher. This is how construction is carried out.
• The finishing is the same as in the previous case.

Roof

For such designs optimal solution it will be straight gable roof with an angle that exceeds 30°, it can even be 45°. Thanks to this, it will be possible to minimize the load on the walls. But it is important to remember that such a design is subject to gusts of wind, so it is necessary to analyze how things are in a particular area. The overhang of the slopes should be at least 70 cm. This will protect the walls from flying splashes during precipitation. You can use any material you like as flooring.

Additionally required make a blind area and install a water drainage system to prevent the walls from getting wet.

Using this guide, you will easily cope with self-construction future place of residence.

Video

In this video, a young family shares their experience of building a classic adobe house:

This video is about how to build a house from adobe yourself:

Photo