The first thing you need to learn is the professional language that carpenters speak and in which we will communicate throughout the book. So let's start with terminology.
It is known that the house must stand on a foundation, and one should start with it, but this is a slightly different topic, so the figure shows temporary linings instead of a foundation 1. When the opportunity arises (even after a few years), they will not prevent you from placing a permanent foundation .
A log house is a log structure without a floor, sheathing or roof, i.e. the main structural part of the house. It consists of several crowns, the number of which determines the height of the log house. The crown is a rectangular structure consisting of perpendicularly laid logs, fastened together at the corners with a locking connection.
The first crown of the log house is the frame crown 2, the second and main one is the lower frame 3, into which logs 4 are cut. The logs tighten the bottom frame and carry the floor, and the frame crown serves to strengthen the bottom frame and protects it from rotting. Over time it can be replaced. The crowns from the bottom trim to the beginning of the window opening are called sill crowns 5. Next come the window crowns 6, then the above-window crowns. The first crown above the window is the closing crown 7. The structure that serves as the basis for the roof is called the top trim. It consists of two upper purlins 8 and rafters 9. What rafters 10 and corner veranda posts 11 are is clear from the figure.
Let's agree to call the logs in the crowns that lie perpendicular to the purlins transverse, and the crowns in which there are window or door openings are split. The logs that form the openings are called “short logs.” They can be of different lengths depending on the location of windows and doors.
Traditionally, as a log house was being built in Rus', logs were processed at height. In some films, you have probably seen how a carpenter, sitting astride a log, dashingly and quickly wields an ax. Let's take a closer look at what operations it performs. First of all, he needs to drag the prepared log upstairs. Then, having made the marking, cut along it and lay the log in its designated place. Agree, such work at height requires great qualifications and skill. As a novice carpenter, you are unlikely to be able to process a log with the required accuracy the first time. You will probably have to repeatedly remove and re-lay the log, adjusting it to its location. The slightest carelessness during such manipulations leads to injury. You can make your work easier and significantly protect yourself by installing scaffolding. They must be made comfortable and reliable, supporting not only your weight, but also the weight of the log being processed. Therefore, the installation of such scaffolding requires a lot of additional building material and time. But even if all the requirements are met, working at height with an ax (including on scaffolding) without sufficient skill is dangerous!
We suggest that you build the log house in parts, each of which is the height of a person. This method is called felling followed by relaying. It consists in the fact that the individual parts of the log house, after being manufactured on the ground, are disassembled and transferred to the main frame. The transfers will allow you to carry out all work with an ax while standing on the ground, and external scaffolding will not be needed. IN in this case we use two relays, since, in our opinion, this is the best option for a novice builder. Don't be embarrassed by the time spent on additional disassembly and assembly of the crowns. They are more than compensated by the convenience and safety of work, because a well-equipped workplace is the key to high performance labor. You will learn more about how translation is carried out later, but for now we will continue to get acquainted with the terminology.
The part of the tree trunk adjacent to the root is called the butt. When starting to cut down a house, you should know that there is no such thing as a perfectly straight log. Any log has a flatness, that is, it decreases in diameter from butt 1 to top 2. Therefore, when laying logs one on top of another, it is necessary to alternate butts and tops.
When assembling a log house, in order for one crown to fit more closely to the other, a groove 3 is selected along the logs. Another frequently performed operation when processing logs is the manufacture of edging 4.
The end of the log, hewn from two parallel sides, is called a “block” 5, the resulting planes are called cheeks 6, and the untreated, convex surface is called wane 7.
The main structural elements of the log house, which serve as locking connections of the logs, are the “paw” 8 and the “dovetail” 9. For additional fastening of the logs in the crowns, a dowel connection 10 - pocket 11 is used, and the posts and rafters are securely installed using tenons 12.
You should pay special attention to the selection of tools.
The most important of them is carpenter's ax 1. It should suit your weight and fit comfortably in your hand. The purpose of such tools as chisel 2, plumb line 3, hacksaw 4, two-handed saw 5, staple 6, bayonet shovel 7, as well as tape measures 8, ruler 9, square 10, colored pencils or wax crayons 11 should not raise any questions. Low-stretch cord 12 and awl 13 are used for marking, and level 14 is used to check horizontality. To make a level, take an elastic rubber hose 5-8 m long, about 1 cm in diameter, the ends of which are placed on two transparent glass tubes of the same diameter, 15-20 cm long. The resulting device is filled with colored water. In addition to the level, you yourself need to make a template 15 from plexiglass 2-3 mm thick and a line 16 - the main marking tools, as well as a “babu” 17 - the main “percussion” tool, made from a birch block with two staples hammered into it.
If you have the opportunity to purchase a chainsaw, do not miss it. A chainsaw will make your work much easier and save your energy and time.
To avoid injuries and other “troubles” during construction, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the pages of special work practices and safety precautions.
Construction must begin with logging.
It is best to use coniferous species - pine and spruce. Aspen is good for making log houses for baths and wells - it is not afraid of water. But you cannot use birch, as it quickly begins to rot and behaves very “capriciously” when processed. Since it burns well and produces a lot of heat, save it for your fireplace. After the forest is cut down, it needs to be debarked and dried.
| Design element | Number of logs | Log length | Log diameter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cover crown | 2 pcs. 3 pcs. |
820 cm 620 cm |
30-50 cm |
| Bottom harness | 2 pcs. 3 pcs. |
820 cm 620 cm |
30-50 cm |
| Lags | 5-6 pcs. | 620 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Window sills | 10-13 pcs. | 620 cm | 20-40 cm |
| Split logs (window and door) | 22-27 pcs. | 540 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Trailing and above-window crowns | 5-9 pcs. | 620 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Upper purlins | 2 pcs. | 820 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Rafters | 7-9 pcs. | 720 cm | 20-35 cm |
| Rafters | 14-18 pcs. | 520 cm | not less than 10 cm |
| Veranda pillars | at least 2 pcs. | 300 cm | not less than 20 cm |
| Note: the indicated dimensions are selected with a margin for trimming. | |||
Now let's choose a location for the construction site.
On the side of the future veranda, it is necessary to provide a place for assembly components log house Then you can begin marking the plan of your future home, which is done using a low-stretch cord and pegs. Our task is to obtain right angles.
BASIC RULE OF THE BUILDER - MARKING DETERMINES QUALITY
We will implement it as follows. We determine point 1. Set aside 800 cm from it and get point 2. On a cord 1600 cm long, measure 600 cm and tie a knot. We fix the ends of the cord at points 1 and 2. Taking the knot, stretch the cord and get the desired point 3. Similarly, we find point 4. We mark the resulting points with pegs and use a tape measure to check all the required distances and the equality of the diagonals with an accuracy of ~3 cm.
Next, we will manufacture and install linings for the frame (temporary foundation).
Choose wooden chocks about 1 m long and at least 30 cm in diameter. Aspen is good for lining. It is resistant to dampness if it is pre-barked.
Pads must be installed under the purlins of the frame, near the corners of the frame, in order to ensure proper distribution of the load. The installation of the linings is carried out according to the level with an accuracy of ~5 cm.
Making edging is the most common operation when processing logs..
In order to perform it, you need to trim the log to size, select a side for the edging, position the future plane of the edging approximately vertically, and secure the log with staples. Don't be alarmed if the log has a curve. This will not prevent you from using it.
Along the plumb line at the ends of the log we draw vertical lines that define the plane of the edge.
We secure the cord using awls in the plane of the edge. Then we make a visual check, looking from the end of the log, and adjust the position of the cord. Using a colored pencil, we transfer the projection of the cord onto the log. To obtain the second edging line, we repeat the same operations, turning the log over.
After this, we secure the log for hewing with staples, but not tightly, so that we don’t have to knock them out later with a crowbar. Let's position the plane of the future edging vertically, make cuts and, having hewed the log, we will get an edging.
Having a chainsaw, instead of making cuts, you can make gashes, which will significantly speed up the work.
Finally, let's proceed directly to the manufacture of the log house.
We begin to make a frame with eight-meter logs (purlins) of the casing, on one side of which there is an edging about 10 cm wide. With the edging, the purlins of the casing will rest on the linings. Now we need to process the ends of the purlins.
First, we cut out “boobs” 2/3-3/4 wide of the diameter of the log. The length of the “boob” L is a constant value equal to the maximum diameter of the logs of the log house.
At the end of the “boob” we select point 1, through it, according to the template, we draw a “paw” line with an extension into the house.
Similarly, according to the template, through point 2 on the outer cheek and through point 3 on the inner cheek, draw a “paw” line.
On the cheeks of the log we draw vertical lines spaced from the end by the width of the “boob” of the counter log, and we get points 4 and 5. We make a vertical cut to line 4-5.
Then you should lay the transverse logs “blocks” on the “feet” of the purlins and, securing them with staples, check and adjust the dimensions of the log house.
Now you can tightly staple the purlins with the linings.
Drawing is the parallel transfer of points of the connecting lines of the lower log to the upper one.
The line width when drawing the “foot” of the flashing crown is chosen to be minimal, but such that the line of the “foot” of the transverse log does not fall on the wane.
During the process of drawing a log, the solution of the line cannot be changed! Let's draw the lines from top to bottom, mark the top of the "paw", and then cut it out. Let's make a medium "boob" on the runs.
To make cutting out the cheeks of the average “boob” easier, we’ll make cuts.
Along the width of the “boob” of the transverse log, we will cut out a “dovetail” in the run. Using a line, we will transfer the dovetail lines to the “boob” of the transverse log and cut it out. Let's lay the middle transverse log on the purlins of the flashing.
Now let's take care of the bottom trim.
Let's make "boobs" on the purlins of the lower trim and place them above the purlins of the casing crown. Using linings and a level, it is necessary to ensure that the upper parts of the purlins are horizontal and lie in the same plane with an accuracy of ~3 cm. It should be taken into account that the butts and tops in the crowns alternate. Let's secure the purlins with staples.
For drawing, select a line solution corresponding to the maximum gap between the logs, plus 1-1.5 cm.
Let's check the selected line solution along the ends of the log. It should be greater than a distance of 1-2 at both ends. Point 2 is the border of the wane and the inner cheek.
Let's mark the tops of the "paws" for the transverse logs.
For further work, we need to master the operation of selecting a groove.
We will make cross-shaped notches along the entire length of the groove with the “heel” of the ax, and select the wood with the “toe” of the ax along the lines of the groove. When these two operations are combined, a groove is formed.
After this, you should cut out the “paws” and, placing the log in place, check the tightness of its fit. To do this, the stacked log should lie on the inner cheeks with a slight overhang. When tipped over, it will easily fall on Right place. Then we return the log to its original position and evenly lay tow (moss) on the underlying log. Now you can finally lay the top log on it.
Next, three transverse logs of the lower trim should be made and laid on the purlins. To complete the bottom trim, all that remains is to embed the logs. On the purlins of the lower trim we will mark the places where the joists will be inserted. As the zero mark (upper level of the log), we select approximately the middle of the transverse log of the lower trim. Let's move the zero mark to the corners of the log house and make notches. Let's put the finished logs in place, outline them, and then cut out their outline to the level of the insert. Let's fill in the logs with a "woman".
During your work, you may encounter typical errors.
- The log “plays” (the gap between the “paws”, the log’s loose fit in the groove):
the reason is a knot on the bottom log or a poor groove; correction - cut off the knots on the lower log, tap the upper log with a “woman”, select places of wrinkles in the groove. - Gap between legs:
reason - the line opening when drawing the “paw” was greater than the line opening when drawing the groove, or the line “collapsed”; correction - using a line with a gap equal to the width of the gap, draw a groove on both sides of the log and make a selection. - The log “hangs” on the “feet” (loose fit of the log in the groove, there is no gap between the “feet”):
the reason is that the line opening when drawing a groove is greater than the line opening when drawing a “paw”; correction - using a line with a gap equal to the width of gap 1, draw “paws” 2 and trim them.
It should be said that the following gap sizes are acceptable: in the “foot” - 0.5 cm, in the groove - 1.5 cm.
Now it’s time to lay the first window sill crown.
First, let's mark the doorway. It should be noted that openings (both window and door) are made 5-10 cm smaller than the design size. Split logs are secured with dowels, for which markings are applied on both sides of the logs.
To mark the center lines of the dowel on both logs, it is necessary to remove the “short” (a log in a split crown). Then, using a chisel, pockets for the dowel are selected along the center line. The total depth of the pockets should be 1 cm greater than the height of the dowel. The dowel should fit tightly into the pocket.
When laying the crowns, you should constantly check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line. The last window sill in doorway goes uncut. The continuous log of this crown is also placed on two dowels.
Tow (moss) is not placed under the logs of the last window sill crown, since this crown is removed for the first relaying. Starting the relaying, first we will set the same distance upward from the zero level and make notches at the corners of the removable crown. Then we will remove the last window sill and install it on the ground, placing pads 15-20 cm high. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the verticality of the cheeks. Using a level, we will restore the horizontality of the crown along the notches. Let's check the equality of the diagonals at the corners.
Let's start laying out the window crowns, having previously marked window openings
.
Recommended height of openings: windows - 110-130 cm, doors - 180-190 cm. The “shorties” of window crowns are fastened with dowels. Let's lay the closing crown, which consists of continuous logs, and place it on the dowels, moving the zero mark to its corners. We will draw a vertical line at the corners of the frame to be repositioned, which serves as a control during assembly.
Now you can, having marked the logs, transfer them to the main frame, laying each crown with moss or tow. For convenience in work, we recommend making the simplest scaffolding inside the house at the level of the window sill, for which you install chocks in the corners of the house and fasten them together with poles (two poles along each side of the log house). To ensure the stability of the scaffolding, the poles in pairs must rest against the opposite walls of the log house.
Upper harness consists of two upper purlins and rafters. At the ends of the purlins, “boobs” are made, and in the middle - only the inner cheeks. For adjustment, we will place the upper purlins (eight meters long) on the transverse logs of the last crown above the windows (there is no need to make the top of the “paws” on them).
Let's check and adjust the dimensions A-B, C-D.
Using linings and staples, we will achieve horizontality at the top of the purlins.
Let's transfer the lines of the inner cheeks of the purlins to the transverse logs. Having rolled back the run, we cut out a “paw” on the outer transverse log, and a “dovetail” on the middle one. Let's make cheeks in the upper purlins according to the “dovetail” of the transverse log. On the underside of the purlins we will make pockets 4 cm deep for the tenons of the veranda pillars. Let's lay out the purlins again and, having drawn them, we'll cut them into the appropriate place.
We will prepare logs for the rafters 7 m long. All of them, except one, should be cut into two parallel edges, obtaining sleepers of the same thickness (minimum 15 cm). Let's dovetail the raw end rafter into the purlin so that its top is horizontal.
Let's mark the insertion points for the remaining processed rafters on the upper purlins. Then we’ll cut in the rafters (checking the level), cutting the purlin by no more than 1/4 of the diameter.
You can also adjust the upper level of the rafter by cutting it itself, but no more than 1/4 of the thickness.
Next, we make platforms for the rafter legs and for the wind board on the outermost (first) rafter (level with the rest). If necessary, it should be precipitated by repeated drawing. Pull the cord along the ends of the outer rafters and align the rest along it.
Make marks on the sub-strings and purlins for subsequent alignment and label them.
Along the cord on all the rafters, mark pockets for the rafter legs. Cut them out with a chisel and check with a template.
Make pockets for pillars on the veranda rafter (the number is determined by the design of the veranda). To eliminate the gap between the level of the lower edge of the rafters (ceiling) and the last log of the veranda wall, draw and embed a log - a “plug”.
Now let's start making the rafters.
The choice of material, marking and manufacturing of rafters require special care and precision, since the strength of the roof depends on their quality. Rafter blanks are selected with the least number of knots. In no case should the knots fall on the top of the workpiece, because the tenon in this place will be significantly weakened. It is allowed that the rafters have a slight curvature in the plane of the roof slope. The length of the blanks is determined by the angle of the roof and the length of the rafters. In our case, the angle of inclination is 45°.
The prepared rafter blanks must be disassembled in pairs and numbered. On rafter blanks, the side on which the sheathing will be attached must be smooth, without protruding knots.
Let's start marking the base of the rafters
Let's make a cut along the line of the ellipse and cut out the workpiece for the tenon, and then, having made the end cut, we'll cut out the tenon itself. Next, we will mark, saw and cut out the tops of the rafters. We will disassemble the finished rafters in pairs and install them for fitting and checking the quality of connections to the rafters. Adjustment is carried out by trimming the tenons or widening and deepening the pockets.
Sometimes they simplify the work of making rafters. At the tops they are connected into half logs, and the bases are fastened to the rafters with nails without making a tenon. By thereby simplifying the task for yourself, you significantly weaken the rafters and reduce the service life of the roof in advance.
Now let's remove the rafters and proceed to the final relaying, not forgetting to lay tow (moss). Then we will lay all the rafters, except for the veranda, and fasten them with brackets staggered to prevent them from turning along the axis.
We have reached the final stage of construction - making the pillars
In the log house, the pillars form the frame of the veranda and in their own way functional purpose are divided into corner, door, window and intermediate. Corner posts provide support for the upper purlins; door and window frames are attached to window boxes. The intermediate pillars do not carry any additional load and are only a frame for the cladding. The corner pillars should have the largest cross-sectional area, and the intermediate ones should have the smallest cross-sectional area. The distance between intermediate posts is determined depending on the length of the boards used to cover the veranda, but in any case should be no more than 1.5 m.
Making corner posts begins with determining their length and marking the pockets. For ease of marking, we will make a “fishing rod”, at the end of which we will attach a plumb line. Using such a device, we project any of the corners of the upper pocket onto the platform of the veranda transverse log of the lower trim, and in this case we obtain the distance H. Using the designed angle, we restore the counter pocket below.
Corner posts must be processed into three edges, and the distance between two parallel edges should be at least 16 cm. Next, the post should be cut to size.
Then we will make a pocket for the lower tenon with a depth of 7 cm. We will install corner pillars, placing linings 5 cm high, which should be removed six months later, after the frame has settled.
Having installed the corner posts, we will put the veranda rafters in place and secure them with brackets. The remaining pillars need to be made and installed after the frame shrinks. Door and window pillars, as well as corner ones, are processed with three edges, the rest - with two. The bottom tenon of all posts, except corner ones, should be 3 cm long.
The installation of the remaining pillars should begin from the side of the log house, securing the already installed pillars to the upper purlin (veranda rafter) with brackets.
The final operation is the installation of rafters.
To carry it out, it is necessary to lay walkways from poles (boards) across the rafters, prepare jib bars from poles about 1.5 m long according to the number of rafters and nails 100 mm long. Let's lay out the rafter legs on the rafters, orienting the spikes opposite the pockets.
We will nail the tops of the rafters and install them, securing them with jibs. When installing the outer rafters, use a plumb line.
It is more convenient to install the rafters with three people. When lifting the rafters, you should simultaneously move forward, and having fixed the spikes of the rafter legs in the pockets, secure them with jibs, checking the vertical installation of the rafters.
All that remains is to fasten the rafter legs with the rafters with thin staples.
So, ! But a log house is not yet. Next, you will need to make a foundation, sew up the gables, cover the roof, build a stove or fireplace, lay floors, sheathe the veranda, cut in window and door blocks etc., in general, a lot of interesting work awaits you.
The log house design we propose is universal. If its size is proportionally reduced, it will turn out very good log house baths, for example, with a size of 4x4 m. By the way, with such a building it is better to start learning carpentry, gain the necessary skills, gain self-confidence, and then you can safely offer your construction services to other gardeners.
Now it is fashionable to talk about the special energy of wood, beneficial effects on humans, etc. But, even if we discard the esotericism and turn to modern science, we can see that the characteristics of moisture absorption, air microfiltration parameters and other properties of wood correspond to the needs of the human body many times better the most advanced materials.
A house made of wood is talked about as “living”, preserving the health of its owners. With certain reservations this is true, but the flip side of such properties is the need for counter-care. "Classic" log house from natural wood requires much more care and supervision than brick or concrete.
To begin with, a tree has a high degree of fire danger material. At the same time, various types of fire-prevention impregnations and coatings either noticeably worsen the notorious environmental component and (or) aesthetics of wood, or lead to a noticeable increase in cost. In addition, most fire retardants have a limited service life, usually not exceeding 10-15 years. Then the processing must be repeated.
The tree is also significantly susceptible to biogenic influences:
- rotting caused by various kinds of fungi and algae;
- damage by insects - wood borers (various types of larvae, beetles and worms);
- damage by rodents (mice, rats).
Measures to combat these scourges are as ambiguous as treatment with fire retardants.
Main types of log material
The severity of the problems described above can largely be reduced at the stage of procurement of materials. The question of how to make a log house with your own hands is preceded by the question of what to make it from.
The options are as follows:
- log house made of natural logs;
- log house;
- log house made of factory-processed logs (rounded).
In turn, when deciding how to make a log house from timber, you have to make a choice between ordinary construction timber (1), profiled timber (2) and laminated timber (3).
Beam: construction (1), profiled (2), laminated veneer (3).
From the point of view of convenience and manufacturability of work, timber is noticeably superior to ordinary (natural) logs. A rounded log is fundamentally no different from timber, except, perhaps, for higher expressiveness and originality of building design.
The first, framed crown, in the absence of a foundation, is laid on pads. They are placed under the lower logs of the casing at a distance of about half a meter from the corners of the future log house. Strictly in the horizontal plane, with a deviation of the top edge from the horizontal by no more than 5 mm.
The bottom of the logs lying on the foundation is cut off by 3-5 cm, and a layer is laid between them and the foundation.
Having exposed the longitudinal logs, longitudinal grooves are cut into them for the next row of logs and semicircular recesses - bowls, into which the logs will lie, forming a perpendicular wall. Then perpendicular logs are laid, in which longitudinal grooves and bowls are also selected. The first crown is ready.
Despite the emergence of new building materials, recently there has been an increasing trend towards building housing from environmentally friendly, natural materials. Returning to the times of our grandfathers and great-grandfathers, today many people want to build a log house with their own hands. This way you can save a lot of money, and most importantly, you can personally ensure and control the quality of construction. But before you get started, you should study the theory. Information on how to make a log house yourself will help you complete the job efficiently.
Basic information about the design of a log house
A log house is a structure consisting of logs laid horizontally to form walls. Each row of logs is called a crown, and the lowest one is a frame crown. A log house consisting of only four external walls is called a four-wall (the logs are connected in the corners), and if there is one internal partition, it is called a five-wall (in addition to the corner ones, there are also T-shaped connections).
The structure of the log house consists of walls consisting of logs laid horizontally. Coniferous and deciduous wood is used to make logs. It is preferable that the trees be freshly cut, and in winter time: This type of wood contains less moisture. Of the coniferous species, pine is better suited: logs made from it last longer and emit less resin.
Corner dressings of external walls are performed both with and without a remainder: in the first case, the edges of the logs protrude beyond the walls, and in the second - not. Bandaging is carried out using the “into the paw”, “into the bowl”, “into the head” and a simpler method – “into the end tongue”.
Preparatory work
Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with selecting logs of the required diameter. In areas with cold winters, the outer walls of the log house are built from logs with a diameter of at least 26 cm. For interior walls and for external ones, built for areas with a warm climate, logs with a diameter of 22... 24 cm will be sufficient. Material with excessive curvature, with rot, with traces of insect damage is not suitable for use. After the bark has been removed, the tree trunks must be cut so that the length of the blanks is 70... 100 cm longer than the length of the walls. Short logs are spliced using the tongue-and-groove method, but the first crown must be solid.
For the lower crown, the highest quality logs are selected, preferably from hardwood. In the following, you need to select a semicircular groove along the entire length. On the side facing the inside of the house, the logs are hewn through. Intended for internal walls (partitions) are pressed through on both sides.
Beginning of the log house assembly
The log houses of houses are assembled with their own hands after the foundation is ready. On top of a foundation made of brick or monolithic concrete, lay a bitumen-impregnated board. Its width should be about 150 mm, thickness - 50 mm. The trim crown is trimmed from below and laid on the board, and then, after adjustment, the rest of the logs are placed. In this case, you need to orient the butts so that in neighboring crowns they are on opposite sides.
During assembly, it is necessary to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of each crown.
The crowns are connected to each other using dowels (pins) in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the dowels should be no more than 2 m. In partitions, fastening should be done at least twice and at a distance of 150... 200 mm from the edge. Internal partition With outer wall connected using a vertical ridge that widens towards the end. To do this, specially shaped grooves are cut in the outer walls.
In accordance with the project, openings are left for doors and windows. Another method involves cutting out openings after assembling the walls (after the house has settled). The latter method is preferable: it ensures a uniform load on the base and prevents the structure from skewing. In both cases, the opening is made in such a way that the ends end in a vertical ridge (it is not needed in the upper and lower parts). Between the overlapping crown and the upper part of the window and door frames, a gap of 4... 5 cm should be left for shrinkage.
The final stage of the log house assembly
After the walls are erected, they are caulked with flax, tow, moss, felt or hemp. There are also sealants made on the basis of natural rubber and artificial materials. The caulking material is compacted into the grooves so that there are no gaps left. To do this, use a special tool - a caulk and a hammer. This work begins with lower crowns along the entire perimeter: processing one wall can lead to distortion of the structure. First, the outer walls are caulked, after which they move inside.
Wood should be treated with antiseptic material and fire retardants: the latter is mandatory in those places where it is planned to install a stove, fireplace, as well as where the chimney will pass. This measure allows you to significantly increase the service life of the log house.
After completing the assembly of the log house, it is covered with waterproofing material and left for at least six months: this is necessary for the house to shrink. Then they install the roof and begin interior finishing.
Interior decoration of a wooden house
The walls of a wooden house (log house), if the wood used is of high quality, without defects, does not require special finishing: it is enough to get rid of the roughness and open it with varnish. It can be either colorless or tinted. If the quality of the wall surface is not satisfactory or another stylistic solution is needed, you can use wooden lining or drywall. In this case, you should first install the electrical wiring: from the point of view of fire safety For this purpose, a cable with copper conductors is used, laid in a corrugated metal pipe.
The walls of the log house breathe well, so you should not use plastic and insulating materials such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. If insulation is necessary, mineral wool is used. For flooring, boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm are used: they fit tightly to each other. A properly assembled log house will last for several decades.
Logs have been used as a building material for a very long time, and have not lost their popularity to this day. In addition to being environmentally friendly, log houses are attractive due to their appearance and relatively low cost. In this article we will analyze step by step how to build log house on one's own.
Construction wooden houses Many companies are engaged in turnkey work today. They are also engaged in the procurement and production of logs. The price of a turnkey house depends not only on the size of the house, but also on the diameter of the logs used and the method of their production.
Building a house from a log with your own hands will be much cheaper than ordering turnkey construction. The cost of building materials is comparable to the cost of work. That is, the price finished house, ordered from a turnkey company, is twice the cost of building materials.
Types of logs
Logs are made from coniferous wood, mainly spruce, pine or larch.
According to the method of production (harvesting), a log can be:
- debarked
- scraped
- planed
- rounded
Barked logs are one of the commonly used materials for building houses. Minor processing helps the tree retain all its protective properties, which significantly increases its service life. In terms of price, houses made from debarked logs are not expensive, but they require additional finishing.
From a debarked log, by removing the underbark (bast) by scraping and grinding, a very durable scraped log is obtained. During the processing process, the logs are adjusted to each other, all irregularities, knots and other defects are removed. The price of a house made from such logs will be higher than from debarked logs, since additional processing requires quite a lot of time. A log house made from scraped logs does not require additional finishing works, but on the contrary, due to the uniqueness of each log it looks very dignified.
The name itself – “planed log” – speaks about the technology for its production. Using an electric planer, a small upper part is removed from the logs, and all irregularities are eliminated. Thus, fairly even logs are obtained. Just as in the case of scraped logs, planed logs are adjusted to each other. Houses made from planed logs are very warm, durable and do not require additional finishing work. The price of such turnkey houses is significantly higher than that of the options listed above.
A rounded log is obtained by processing the log at rounding machine. Due to this, perfectly even logs are obtained along the entire length, which do not require adjustment. As a result of processing, the protective layer is removed from the tree, which can subsequently lead to cracking of the log and rapid deterioration of the log house (rotting). Houses made from such logs are assembled quite quickly and look beautiful without additional finishing. The price of houses made of rounded logs on a turnkey basis is not high, but it is quite difficult to obtain a high-quality log house from such material.
Project selection
After determining the material from which the house will be built, you can begin to select its design. You can design a small house yourself or find a free project on the Internet. But with the two-story project big house It's not worth experimenting. It is better to purchase it from the appropriate organization, which will most likely help with obtaining a permit for its construction.
When independently designing a future home, it is necessary to take into account the maximum possible length of logs, which is 6 meters. The height of the future house is calculated based on the diameter of the logs, which is different for everyone, with the exception of the use of galvanized logs.
Foundation for a log house
The foundation for a house made of solid logs must withstand heavy loads. The most suitable is a strip shallow foundation. The price of this type of turnkey foundation in construction companies is quite high, therefore, it is also better to complete this stage of construction yourself.
Before building a foundation for a log house, it is necessary to mark the site. To do this, pegs are driven into the corners of the future house, and a string is stretched between them, indicating its contours. Next, a trench is dug with a depth of 60-70 cm and a width equal to the width of the foundation, and it depends on the diameter chosen for the construction of the log. It is desirable that the foundation protrudes beyond the wall from the outside by 5 cm, and from the inside by 10 cm. An internal protrusion is necessary for a more stable and high-quality fit of the floor joists.
A layer of sand (sand cushion) is poured onto the bottom of the trench, which is compacted well.
The next stage is the assembly and installation of formwork. It is made from boards or plywood by assembling panels. The shields are installed on top of the trench opposite each other and are well fastened together.
Reinforcement is placed inside the formwork, which is tied together into one single frame. For the foundation of a log house, reinforcement of at least 12 diameters is used, in several rows.
After installing the formwork and reinforcing frame, concrete can be poured. When purchasing concrete from a manufacturer, you must order concrete grade M250. When pouring yourself, the proportions are as follows: 1 cement (400): 3 sand: 4.5-5 crushed stone.
Important! It is necessary to provide holes in the foundation for ventilation of the subfloor. The height of the foundation from the ground should be less than 50 cm.
Wall construction technology
Before laying the first crown of the log house, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation by laying on it waterproofing material(roofing felt, hydrostekloizol).
For the first crown, choose the largest log in diameter and the most resinous one.
You can also use larch logs, but its price is quite high. To give greater stability to the log, part of it is removed, making a flat area. Treated with an antiseptic solution and laid on the foundation.
For a good fit to each other, a longitudinal groove is selected in the logs. When ordering a finished log house made from rounded logs, this groove is already made in production. In all other cases, the groove is made manually.
Video. How to make a longitudinal groove manually:
The logs are laid with the groove down on top of each other. For dense and warm connection Moss or tow is laid between the logs. The logs are connected to each other using wooden dowels, which are inserted vertically into pre-drilled holes.
The corner connection can have several options: with or without a remainder.
When connecting logs with the remainder, there will be an overconsumption of material, since part of the log protrudes beyond the walls of the house. This method will increase the cost of construction.
The corner connection of the logs should be warm. It can be obtained by connecting into a paw (when connecting without a residue) and by connecting into a bowl (when connecting with a remainder).
If the diameter of the logs is large enough, then, most likely, to build a house from a log you will have to resort to the help of equipment: a crane or a manipulator.
It is easier to build a house from rounded logs than from regular logs. The log is smooth, has all the necessary grooves and corner joint have already been completed in production, all that remains is to assemble the constructor.
Roof construction technology
After assembling the box at home, it must be protected from exposure to precipitation. To do this, you must immediately build a roof over it.
To do this, you will need 150*50 mm boards from which to construct rafter system. A roof slope of 30 degrees is optimal. The rafters are installed at a distance of 60-100 mm from each other and are attached in the lower part to the wall using long nails or metal corners, and in the upper part to the ridge beam. Roofing waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters, a counter batten is nailed to provide a ventilated gap, and a wooden sheathing is installed.
Placed on the sheathing roofing material. In the case of flexible bitumen shingles, solid base from plywood. Price soft roof higher than metal, but in certain cases (complex hip roofs) its use will be preferable and expedient.
A log house with a roof installed will have a beautiful finished look.
Important nuances
After erecting the frame of the house and the roof, the log house must be left for at least one year. After it shrinks, you can begin finishing (jambing) window and door openings.
As described above, houses made of rounded or planed logs do not require additional finishing, but the wood must be protected from moisture and insects. To do this, wooden houses should be periodically treated with special solutions and paints. The quality of wood processing will determine how long a log house will last.
To reduce heat loss from a log house, it must be well caulked.
To build a turnkey log house with your own hands, you need to purchase a suitable design, high-quality and affordable material and follow the technology at all stages of construction.
Having chosen or drawn a specific project, and calculated how much building material is needed and how much money is needed to build this particular house, you will understand how much the price of the proposed finished houses in construction companies from the costs of building a house with your own hands.
Video. Construction of a house from a log.
04/19/2016 by
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Building a bathhouse from a log frame is not an easy task, but the construction technology, choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen. This material explains everything key points, which will help in the construction of a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior finishing.
The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Getting rid of many ailments, removing harmful substances from the body accumulated in everyday life in the city, giving the body complete rest - all this has been achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.
Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.
Place and layout of the bathhouse
One of the important additions to the bathhouse itself at all times was a pond with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.
Bound today country bathhouse there is no particular need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.
The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fences, outbuildings), fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.
The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and space for sun loungers.
For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) a bathhouse of the following dimensions is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.
In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, rest rooms, etc.
In temperate and cold climate zones, it would be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow the premises to be illuminated with sunlight longer.
Construction of a bathhouse - stages
There are several of them:
- Procurement of basic materials.
- Selecting and laying the foundation.
- Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
- Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bathhouse.
- Assembling a log bathhouse.
- Roof construction.
- Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
- Caulking bath walls.
- Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
- Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
- Installation of doors and installation of shelves.
Preparation of basic materials for the bath
The classic and most successful construction material for a Russian bathhouse has been and will remain wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging bath rooms, removing excess moisture outside.
What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and floor joists made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.
When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.
An important criterion when selecting wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the coniferous round timber, dryness, sanded surface, absence of rotten areas and places of wood-boring beetle damage.
Bathhouse foundation
The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying a foundation of any type: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).
To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:
- Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
- Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
- Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.
Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse
Installed on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. Bookmark depth columnar foundation- at least 1.5 m.
Pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bonded concrete mortar. Basic (angular) brick pillars for a columnar foundation usually square shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary - rectangular, section 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100-150 mm), filled with water and compacted.
When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. Inside the assembled formwork you need to place iron fittings, then pour the concrete mixture.
To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard is used. From the material chosen for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.
Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rot, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be coated with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.
In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the external walls of the bathhouse and the internal walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out; their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.
The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300-400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.
When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.
Sequence of work:
- Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
- Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
- Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70-100 mm).
- Installation of formwork.
- Laying reinforcement.
- Pouring concrete mixture.
The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.
The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete required for pouring strip foundation, quite simple, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:
- 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3
One of the difficulties in preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.
The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or a wire probe, and tapped with a hammer. outside formwork (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.
After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:
- Ruberoid.
- Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
- Masonry mesh.
- Red brick.
- Masonry mortar.
Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation with bitumen mastic (for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row ligation method: laid on a layer of roofing felt masonry mortar, on it - the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, a mortar is placed and the next brick row, but “in a spoon” (along the axis of the foundation). Each new row brickwork accompanied by laying a masonry mesh, laying “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. Quantity brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.
The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.
Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor
We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If capital masonry of the heater is planned, it requires an independent foundation, that is, not connected to the main foundation.
The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By by and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.
The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden covering the floor wears out quickly, becoming unsightly appearance, may require replacement after 6-8 years. It would be more practical for bath flooring tile- it is easier to care for, it is not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.
Floors in bathhouses should be placed on at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm higher than the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).
Since the construction of a coated concrete floor ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room it is more profitable than a wooden floor - we will consider this option.
There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.
Further actions:
- First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
- Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!
If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), wooden logs will be required for flooring square section(side 150 mm). If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. At large sizes Additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. Support posts for logs must be placed on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.
Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.
The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.
Solution flooring in this case it is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, filled with slag or expanded clay (between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation you can lay a layer of 200 mm polystyrene foam), a subfloor made of 29 mm edged boards is attached to the underside of the joists. Then PVC film, foil is laid mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we lay ceramic tiles.
Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.
The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.
An important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - this condition is especially true for a steam room!
Bath sewage system
To drain wastewater from a bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for wastewater and pipes that drain dirty water into the pit and then into the wastewater well.
The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes will rust quickly).
The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth should be 700 mm, and its cross-section should be 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After inserting the drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, and soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.
Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit; the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drainage hole.
To prevent freezing in winter period The pit must be covered with two lids of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt must be laid between them, and the top lid must be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.
Log house, roofing and blind area
It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. Ready log house disassembled must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.
The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of final roof structure depends on roofing, with which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of one or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.
Single-pitch rafters located at an angle are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.
The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.
The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.
We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: completely remove upper layer soil, we go 200 mm deep at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. Let's lay it down expansion joints(19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.
Caulking for a sauna log house
Performed to insulate a log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, caulking material is traditionally used flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.
The caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - on the outside and inside of the log house, and after a year - caulking again (the log house settles - the logs dry).
The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a round shape: the diameter of the handle is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, its length is 100 mm.
Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until you are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.
The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.
Rules for caulking:
- First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
- We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).
Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to warp and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.
Installing a stove
There are many design options for bathhouse stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel, or use built-in heating elements and heated by electricity; they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick stoves in bathhouses are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”; masonry seams must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the stove. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace of the stove is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.
For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.
Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones different weights(from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a wider pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.
To get the most high temperature In the steam room, you need to add cast iron ingots to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.
By maintaining a distance of 40-50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of water is achieved.
For better traction you need to remove chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire safety standards).
Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse
To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters are required hot water. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use geyser, install an electric heater - boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - the water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.
Water can be taken from a well or borehole by installing a submersible pump to pump it in and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.
You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity, and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, settling on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has long term service (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work with it, because it is too thick (minimum cross-section - 16 mm2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards, you need to attach it to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.
A simpler solution is air copper cable VVGng, fixed to the carrier steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched over the air to the bathhouse, the optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in future.
All wiring boxes, sockets and switches, and electrical panels must be for outdoor installation only. According to fire safety rules, it is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don't joke about the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring The baths must be made only in non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through the partitions must only be through a steel pipe.
Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter there from the bottom or side, but not from the top - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.
All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, only glass shade. All connections of the internal cable routing are made only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.
To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!
Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors
Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room in which the stove is installed must be made of brick, or there are brick inserts in it with single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the stove body.
Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, after all log logs will be covered with casing and will not be able to provide adequate ventilation.
The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing/steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered finishing- linden, pine tongue-and-groove board (thickness: 20 mm or more - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).
In the bathhouse you need to install small windows (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that someone sitting on a bench can look out through them. The windows in the bathhouse are always double glazed, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.
Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward for fire safety reasons. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size the doors in the washing compartment of the bathhouse are 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).
The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of double-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.
The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.
All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero-grade sandpaper.
For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.
When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.
Fire precautions
Protect the sauna premises from the threat of fire - lay it in front of the stove firebox steel sheet, make sure that the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container of water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.
