Interior of a small apartment: do-it-yourself bed with a lifting mechanism. DIY bed with a lifting mechanism DIY bed 1600x2000 with a lifting mechanism

Selection, drawings and design of the bed lifting mechanism

The convenient bed lifting mechanism allows you to lift the mattress with easy movements and gain access to the space underneath. What to store there is up to you to decide. Some people store winter things and clothes, others - bed dress. There are plenty of options. But first you need to purchase or make a bed equipped with your own hands. lifting mechanism.

In conditions of shortage square meters we have to look for ways to extract maximum benefit from literally every piece of furniture. Even from a bed that seems to be intended only for rest and cannot perform any other tasks. But as practice shows, some furniture models are very multifunctional. For example, a bed with a lifting mechanism - it can be used both for sleeping and for storing all kinds of bedding. Do you think such a bed will cost too much? You're wrong - you can even make it yourself. And our photos, drawings and assembly videos will help you with this.

Preparation for installation
Bed assembly
Sheathing and finishing
Do-it-yourself bed with a lifting mechanism: video
Bed with a lifting mechanism: photo

Making a bed with a lifting mechanism should begin with the preparation of drawings, materials and tools.

If you are doing this kind of work for the first time, it is better to use ready-made furniture assembly drawings to avoid serious design errors that will cost you the functionality of the bed.

Materials and tools you will need:

Chipboard and MDF;
lifting mechanism;
screwdriver and screws;
jigsaw;
bars;
boards;

wooden slats;
furniture stapler;
upholstery material;
sheet foam rubber.

As for the lifting mechanism, it can be of two types:

Gas – operates using gas spring-shock absorbers. It can be blocking - with fixation in a certain position, as well as standard - without fixation. Main advantages: noiselessness, ease of operation, soft finishing.
Mechanical - operates using metal springs. The main advantage is the ability to adjust the operation of the lifting system by adding, removing, loosening and tightening springs.

Advice. If you are planning to assemble a double bed, choose a gas mechanism - it is more durable and durable.

Now you can start making furniture.

Bed assembly

First of all, you need to build a solid foundation for the furniture. To do this, make:

sidewalls, drawers, headboards and bottoms for drawers - made of chipboard or MDF;
the frame for the base is made of bars;
mattress flooring - made of wooden boards and slats.

Then assemble the bed base from all these elements:

secure the bottom for future boxes on the timber frame;
install the drawers and sides on the frame, and on top of them - the mattress flooring;
secure the headboard to the base.

Use self-tapping screws to connect parts.

Then install the lifting mechanism. It is already on sale in finished form, so you only need to firmly seat the system on the nuts that usually come with it in the kit: first, the lower steel bar is attached to the timber frame of the base, and then the upper one is attached to the side part.

Advice. If you want to get the most durable bed, install it on a steel frame: take a profile and use a grinder to saw it into pieces of the required dimensions, and then weld the parts into a single structure - then fix the bed frame on it.

Sheathing and finishing

When the bed structure is ready, it needs to be sheathed. This is done in order, firstly, to hide the frame and frame elements, secondly, to obtain a comfortable and soft bed, and thirdly, to give the furniture an aesthetic appearance.

First of all, lay sheet foam rubber on the base - determine the optimal number of layers yourself. Cover it with upholstery material on top. It can be not only fabric, but also leatherette or leather. It is best to fasten the sheathing to the frame using a furniture stapler: its steel staples are firmly driven into the base, but at the same time remain unnoticeable on the sheathing, so they do not damage appearance furniture. Also don't forget to line decorative material and the sides of the bed. In those places where the finishing will often come into contact with the lifting mechanism, you can place small pads under the main material.

After covering, all that remains is to install the finishing fittings: support legs, wheels or rollers.

Thus, if you understand the instructions, then even making such a complex piece of furniture as a bed with a lifting mechanism will be a completely feasible task. So don’t rush to spend money on a store-bought product - with some effort, you can get an equally attractive model, but several times cheaper.

Do-it-yourself bed with a lifting mechanism: video

Bed with a lifting mechanism: photo

Main advantages

Let's start with what having a bed with a folding top and a special mechanism for easy lifting will give you:

The area under the mattress is usable for any purpose you choose. This is a full-fledged cabinet, only horizontally located;
The space allows you to place a decent amount of things, which eliminates the need to buy an additional chest of drawers or a large closet. This is especially true when small area bedrooms;
The lifting mechanism ensures ease of movement that even a child can handle;
An ideal solution for fans of minimalism style;
Dust does not accumulate under the bed, children's toys or your dog's balls do not roll in there;
All bedding will be placed permanently, so there will be no need to move it from place to place;
The folding mechanism works quietly, without creating unnecessary noise;
For the right amount you get not only a bed, but also an additional wardrobe.

Design

In fact, making a bed with your own hands that is equipped with a lifting mechanism is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

The task is to build a frame with your own hands by combining selected materials for the bed, and equipping the mattress with a lifting mechanism. These mechanisms are purchased separately; you do not need to make them yourself. You just need to choose from the options available on the market.

The bed itself, which has a lifting mechanism, includes the following components:

Inset frame;
Lifting mechanism;
Accessories;
Mattress.

The bed itself can be made in three versions:

Made from curved metal pipes. Quite reliable and durable;
From wooden partitions. For this, flexible and durable wood is used, since the partitions will bear the main load;
Frame made of natural wood. It holds the mattress itself and other structural elements.

Types of lifting mechanisms

Since you want your double bed to have a folding mattress with a lifting mechanism, then you need to decide which system will be on your sleeping place and choose it. Or maybe even install it on the frame with your own hands.

There are three main types of lifting mechanisms.

Gas shock absorbers. The most convenient, reliable, but at the same time expensive option. Lifting such a bed with your own hands does not require much effort. If you are planning a double bed, you should choose only this type of mechanism, since it can withstand heavy loads.
On springs. The lifting mechanism, based on coil springs, is simpler to implement and more affordable from a financial point of view. Reliability is up to par. But springs can quickly fail with frequent use. Replacing them is not difficult, which is nice. Please note that such a folding mechanism is not suitable for a children's bed, since lifting will require effort.
On hinges. Most cheap option among all possible ones. As you already understand, there is no additional element, which would take on part of the load when lifting the mattress, is not here, unlike springs and shock absorbers. Therefore, you will have to lift the entire mass of the mattress yourself. Would you like to choose this option?

Project development

Since you decide to make a bed with your own hands, first you will need a drawing. That is detailed project, which indicates all sizes, dimensions, materials used, mechanisms.

Start with the basic frame. Here it is better to opt for a durable tree such as birch. But high-quality MDF is suitable as an alternative.
We still recommend making the frame for the mattress itself with a lifting mechanism from wood, since the load on it will be impressive.
For sleeping place use one of the three options above. Choose according to your taste and wallet.
There is no need to invent anything with the mattress. Just buy a ready-made orthopedic product.
The most difficult, but at the same time quite simple, situation is with the lifting mechanism for your bed. Among the options presented ideal solution There is only one thing - shock absorbers. Hinges are recommended only for a budget project and when creating a single bed for a physically strong person.
Single beds can be made with vertical and horizontal lift.
The double bed can only be equipped with a folding bed vertical system rise.
A standard bed for two people measures 180 by 200 centimeters. Focus on the dimensions of the selected mattress so that it matches the frame being created.
Having the drawing at your disposal, you can begin to manufacture the elements and combine them into a bed design with a lifting mechanism. Watch the video instructions first, which will help a lot.

Choosing a finished bed

If you don’t want to make a bed with a lifting mechanism yourself, you can do it easier - choose a finished product. Now you can choose a wide variety of options for your bedroom, each of which has its own advantages, features and price.

To choose your furniture wisely, you should rely on several main criteria.

Dimensions. Take into account the number of people (2 or 1) who will sleep on the bed, as well as the available space inside the bedroom. An important point is the location of the structure in the room. Having decided on these questions, you can choose the optimal dimensions.
Mechanism. We have already presented the types of mechanisms to you. But they may have their own characteristics. Therefore, do it as simply as possible - when buying a bed, try to carry out the manipulations of raising and lowering the mechanism with your own hands. If everything went easily and without unnecessary discomfort, this bed suits you, you can choose it.
Appearance. Here you should rely entirely on the interior of your bedroom, your own taste and personal preferences.
Fittings and materials used. The better quality these elements are, the longer the bed can last. It’s not so easy to choose here, since budget furniture options can have an incredibly attractive appearance, which hides materials of dubious quality and durability. Here it is better to trust trusted stores and factories that have proven themselves well in the market.
Linen department. After lifting the mattress, inspect the interior storage space in your bedroom. It is advisable to choose to have it divided into separate sections. This way the box will receive additional screed, and therefore the load will be distributed more evenly. This is especially true for larger people.

The presence of a lifting mechanism makes the bed much more functional, allows you to discard some pieces of furniture, and provides an excellent place to store various things and clothes. But whether to make it yourself or buy a ready-made bed is up to you to decide.

DIY vanishing bed

Yes, that's what they sometimes call it. In most cases, such a bed is placed in a closet and is designed to save you free space.

There are two types of such products, and before we find out how to make a folding bed with our own hands, we’ll look at the drawings and all that, you need to understand all the intricacies of the design:

Vertical beds are usually placed in a special niche in the wall. You can hide it if you wish, for example, with colorful photo wallpaper.
Horizontal models, suggesting that near the wall there will be not the head of the bed, but its left or Right side. Often used in children's rooms. This is explained by the fact that the child needs a very small bed that can easily fit along the wall. In addition, the horizontal model is much easier to open.

What does a folding bed consist of - drawings

Let's look together at what a do-it-yourself folding bed will consist of, drawings for which are presented in this article. Perhaps the most important element is the mattress.

Fortunately, such a bed can “accept” almost all known types of mattresses, but it is better, of course, to choose an orthopedic model.

The bed will also have special mechanisms designed to raise or lower the structure. The effort with which you put the bed into a niche will directly depend on their quality. If it is high, then the model practically takes its original position.

Today there are three types of mechanisms:

Mechanical.
On springs.
On gas shock absorbers.

Folding bed - starting construction

If you plan to make your own folding bed and place it rationally, then during the day it will not take up space at all. Let's consider the main stages of its manufacture.

First stage.

We decide what we need for work: a frame, a lifting mechanism and, accordingly, a bed.

Second phase.

You should start with the frame, or box. It can take the form of either a cabinet detail or a separate room design item. When choosing material for the box, remember that your efforts will also be made to lift it, after the bed. That is why the wall to which the entire structure will be attached must be built of concrete in order to withstand such a load.

Stage three.

We fasten the box to the wall, based on the upper horizontal and the axis of rotation of the structure. In this case, the thickness of the walls located vertically is usually 2.5 centimeters, and horizontally - from 1.5 to 2.5 centimeters.

Stage four.

What exactly does the box consist of? Made of two main parts: a plinth and a shelf for support. Regarding the back wall, it is not necessary to do it at all. Well, unless you want to give your bed some kind of completeness, or something. If we want to get a high-quality folding bed with our own hands, then we need to use only chipboard.

Stage five.

All parts are fastened with self-tapping screws located 25 centimeters from each other. The back wall (if there is one) moves towards the box even before we secure it. The box must be placed on a flat floor.

Stage six.

We calculate the dimensions of our box. This process will be influenced by several factors: the size of the mattress and the bed itself, the thickness of the back, and so on.

Stage seven.

To make the bed we will need two side boards, two backs and a headboard. To secure the mattress to the bed, you can use strong straps. For other parts they are used mounting angles.

Stage eight, concluding.

We connect the bed to the box using a lifting mechanism. We recommend that you do not reinvent the wheel and purchase a factory lifting mechanism equipped with a gas spring. This part will allow you to fix the structure in almost any position you need.

So, we have looked at how to make a folding bed with your own hands, the drawings are also given in the article, all that remains is to give you some final tips. So, the base from old bed- this will save you energy and time.

But before assembly, you should consult with professionals so that your structure does not soon fall apart.

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How to make a wardrobe bed with your own hands? About the design

First, let's look at the configuration of this type of furniture. And it consists of only a few parts:

Base (bed). Steel frame (frame), which is fixed to the wall.

In this case, the base is attached to the bottom of the frame. This configuration is also called a “compartment bed” in the furniture industry. It can be attached to the frame on one of the short sides.

In this case, the furniture when folded will look like a cabinet. If the base of the structure is connected by a long end, then the product in this state can be used as a cabinet. However, no matter what type of wardrobe-bed it has, the main thing is that it is firmly fixed to the wall and does not “slide” to a horizontal position.

As we can see, the wardrobe-bed (a photo of the diagram of this furniture can be seen below) has a very primitive design. However, if you decide to make this product yourself, you should not abandon the drawing.

Draw a diagram of the location of all the workers and mechanisms, calculate the distances, all dimensions and make the calculation. This way, you will not only reduce the risks of creating a crooked design (as happens when creating a product from a drawing “from your head”), but also significantly reduce the cost of materials, since you will already know the exact number of metal corners and wood boards. When purchasing the latter, you should pay attention Special attention their quality, since the correct positioning of the mattress and your overall comfort during sleep will depend on them.

It should lie tightly on the boards. But at the same time, the mattress should be placed so that it can be easily removed if necessary.

Tool

Since the work of assembling the folding structure of bedroom furniture involves lumber, the appropriate tool was needed:

jigsaw;perforator;saw;screwdriver;confirm drill with crank;hammer;tape measure;pencil;screwdrivers;set of nut heads

Materials

Based on the drawings of the wardrobe-bed with dimensions, I ordered cutting of MDF sheets from a furniture workshop.

I also ordered the finishing of the ends of all parts of the built-in bed assembly. The bottom of the sleeping bed is also the front wall of the closet. I also ordered its production from furniture workshop.

Details of the vertical body of built-in furniture made of 25 mm MDF:

side panels 45 x 220 cm – 2 pcs.

top vertical and horizontal panels 45 x 176 cm – 3 pcs. bottom wall 50 x 174 cm – 1 pc. supporting horizontal panel 45 x 180 cm – 1 pc.

Details of the built-in sofa made of 25 mm MDF:

side walls

Other materials:

lifting mechanism with swivel leg – 2 sets with fasteners;

metal corners 50 x 50 – 26 pcs; frame dowel 10 x 122 mm – 2 pcs; confirmations 50 mm – 16 pcs; screws 30 mm – 40 pcs.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a wardrobe bed with your own hands

After I brought home the materials and prepared the tools, I began to assemble the transformer bed cabinet with my own hands according to the drawings. The work was carried out in stages.

On the wall, I made markings with a pencil for fastening the vertical furniture frame. At two points, I made holes in the concrete wall, ø 10 mm, 120 mm deep, at two points with a hammer drill. Through the holes in the corners, I hammered 2 frame dowels into the wall.

The vertical body box was assembled from the panels listed in the “Materials” chapter. I drilled holes at the ends and mating planes of the parts for installing confirmats. After screwing in the confirmats, I installed the body in a vertical position.

I secured the mounting angles screwed to the wall with screws. I assembled the bed frame, connecting the panels with confirmations.

I attached the bottom-facade to the box with steel corners 50 x 50 mm on screws. I installed the corners in increments of 300 mm - 24 pcs. I drilled mounting holes in the sides of the box according to the markings. I threaded the bolts through the holes and installed the right and left lifting mechanisms. I tightened the nuts with a head, having previously placed washers. I installed swivel legs in the rear panel. Inserted the front part of the bed into the vertical part of the cabinet. I secured the turning arms with bolts inserted into pre-drilled holes in the side walls of the cabinet. Having made several test lifts and lowerings of the built-in part of the furniture, I tightened all the fastenings of the structure. So that the front of the bed cabinet did not look like a large empty plane, I attached a beautiful panel to it depicting an exotic landscape.

Cost of materials

At the end of the work, I calculated the costs I incurred for making furniture.

The cost of making panels for assembling a built-in bed in a closet with your own hands. The area of MDF with a thickness of 25 mm was 11.55 m2:

side panels 45 x 220 cm – 2 pcs; upper vertical and horizontal panels 450 x 1740 mm – 3 pcs; bottom wall 50 x 174 cm – 1 pc; horizontal support panel 45 x 180 cm – 1 pc; side walls 43 x 218 cm; cross walls 430 x 1760 mm; bottom-facade 1760 x 2180 mm;

The total cutting length of MDF sheets is 20 p.

m. End finishing – 34 l.m.

The furniture workshop issued an invoice for payment for materials, for the work of cutting and trimming panels:

11.55 m2x 400 rub. = 4620 rub.;

m. x 30 rub. = 600 rub.;

m. x 5 rub. = 170 rub.

Total: 5390 rub.

The cost of other materials was:

lifting mechanism with swivel leg - 2 sets with fasteners = 3000 rubles; metal corners 50 x 50 - 26 pcs. = 52 RUR; frame dowel 10 x 122 mm – 2 pcs.

16 rubles; confirmations 50 mm - 16 pcs. = 20 rub.; screws 30 mm - 40 pcs. = 5 rub.

The total cost of materials was: 8483 rubles.

A combination of elegance and ergonomics

Folding transformable bed can last up to 60 years! Since the first model, many designs have been created: the bed can be folded horizontally and vertically, be two-tiered and have additional functions. For example, beds with tables and models with sofas are popular.

The vertical version of the bed is considered traditional. A horizontal bed is good for narrow rooms and premises with low ceilings, for example, it can be installed in the attic.

After installing the bed-wardrobe, the room turns into:

bedroom-office; bedroom-living room; bedroom-children's.

When deciding to make an “invisible” bed, you should take a closer look at interesting ideas:

The transformer can be supplemented with convenient bookshelves.

A horizontally positioned folding bed can be easily attached to low modular furniture. A rather interesting solution is when the room is made in a Japanese minimalist style and the built-in bed looks like “shoji” walls.

A transformer in a teenager's room can become part of a cozy corner closet. In a children's room, it is sometimes convenient to make a two-tier wardrobe bed.

A transformer can have an unusual look if you make the decor yourself.

A retro-style space is charming! A wardrobe bed can appear in an apartment made in any style. For example, with the appropriate design and decor, it will look good in the sophisticated French atmosphere of Provence. Gray sliding doors will add the necessary textural contrast.

What do you need to know?

The transformer, which the simplest drawings give an idea of, consists of 4 key components:

lifting mechanism; heavy-duty magnetic clasp that prevents the bed from falling out; bed frame; cabinet.

Any modern mechanism designed for a wardrobe bed ensures easy folding.

The lifting system can be:

Spring mechanism. It typically consists of heavy-duty compressed steel springs in the bed frame that make lifting and lowering easy. But after several years of intensive use, the springs need adjustment.

Piston mechanism.

Unlike spring device, pistons are safer, last much longer and break less. Each mechanism is designed for a certain weight. A pair of metal springs or a piston lift make it easy and safe to place the bed box into the frame. A secure latch will keep the furniture in the closed position. It is important to remember that the mechanism in creating a modern Murphy bed is the most important thing. Installing the hardware will likely be the most time-consuming part of the job.

Only correct installation according to the instructions guarantees reliable folding. If the bed-wardrobe mechanism is purchased from furniture supply stores, an easy-to-understand installation diagram will be included with the kit. A person who has ever made a closet or similar large-scale piece of furniture with their own hands probably has all the skills to to build a transformer into the wall. The process of making the piece of furniture itself includes: creating a cabinet that looks like a frame; a bed box to which the legs are attached. Beds that are hidden in a closet do not have heavy spring mattress structures. Typically, an orthopedic or regular mattress rests on a wooden platform, wire mesh or slats and is secured with elastic straps that hold it in place while the unit is folded vertically.

How to make calculations?

To create a bed, the most attractive option is to use a combination of high-grade plywood and solid wood. As already mentioned, on the sides of the cabinet designed to hide the bed, you can add bookshelves, and install halogen lighting in the upper part of the frame. The face of a structure can look as simple as a sheet of plywood or be as complex as a piece of antique furniture.

The height of the legs, sides and the height of the part of the mattress protruding above the sides is the total height of the sleeping place, on which the depth of the cabinet structure depends. Typically it is approximately 450 mm ( standard height chair) - sit comfortably.

Taking into account the thickness of the lifting mechanism, simple calculations can be made. If the mechanism has a thickness of 32 mm, then the gaps between the sides of the bed and the sides of the cabinet will be 32 mm on each side. Accordingly, the calculation takes into account the width of the bed, the thickness of the sides of the base, the gaps for installing the mechanism and the thickness of the sides of the cabinet.

Sleeping place, mmCloset width, mm90010281200132814001528

The height of the closet depends on the length or width of the bed.

Work order

The biggest obstacle for many people is finding a place to do carpentry work. Therefore, it is worth considering assembling it in a garage or renting a special room for a while.

To make a transformer, you need to prepare the following tools for work:

centimeter tape; building level, square; electric drill; screwdriver; jigsaw; grinding machine; keys (hexagon); set of screwdrivers.

In addition, you will need quality materials. Based on the sizes, you need to make a list of them.

A mattress, regular or orthopedic, should be purchased immediately to check the dimensions of the bed frame and cabinet. Pillows are typically stored in a closet or chest of drawers rather than on the mattress when it is hidden.

The frame consists of 4 boards of the same height, which will serve as the sides of the bed. It is important to create an even rectangle with 90° corners.

The frames are connected using wooden pins coated with glue. After the glue has dried, self-tapping screws and furniture corners are used to finally fasten the sides together. You can nail a rail with a cross-section of 100x50 mm around the perimeter; it will serve as a limiter for the mattress.

The base can be made from a single piece of plywood or, for example, it can be knocked down from planks. There are many options. Important! Sometimes additional stiffeners may be needed.

At this stage, you can make decoration. The parts of the cabinet frame are fastened according to the same principle as the parts of the bed frame. When tilting the bed, the cabinet may simply fall to the floor. To avoid this, you need to attach it to the load-bearing wall using metal corners. The fasteners are placed as high as possible on the sides. If a folding bed is hidden in the structure of a furniture wall, then the weight of the wall will be a good insurance policy; in the case where the closet is located “apropos” between the ceiling and the floors, it theoretically cannot fall. The legs can be made independently, ensuring that they are built in using furniture hinges, or can be purchased together with the mechanism. The spring or piston mechanism is installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.

What is a lifting mechanism and how does it work?

Beds with a lifting mechanism are very popular, which is not at all surprising, because they serve as both a bed and a chest of drawers. Thanks to a special design system, the bed easily turns into a convenient mini-wardrobe where you can store various things. As a rule, the system is quite simple: the berth is raised using a spring or a gas lift.

Both bed base lifting mechanisms work on the principle of creating a force that can move the bed into a horizontal or vertical position. The lifting device is a structure consisting of several steel strips that are assembled into a frame. The system is often equipped with locks to prevent the bed from folding inadvertently.

Types of lifting devices

There are three types of lifting mechanism.

Lifting mechanism for bed on coil springs. This a budget option, but in practice it works well. The metal spring bears the brunt of the load, so it can wear out over time. Also, this type cannot withstand heavy loads on the stock.
Gas bed lift mechanism. It is more reliable and convenient. Thanks to this fastening, you can easily raise and lower the berth. The average warranty for gas elements is 5-6 years.
Hinged version with manual bed lift. This is the simplest type, but it is difficult to use because it requires a lot of strength to lift it on your own.

In general, it is obvious that the mechanism for raising the bed with gas shock absorbers is the most profitable and convenient way, although it is not cheap. Such a rookery allows you to use heavy orthopedic mattresses, but at the same time easily lift the sleeping element. This mechanism is also different for a long time services compared to others. A shock absorber for a bed with a lifting mechanism makes it possible for overweight people to use the bed.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of a bed that can turn into a comfortable chest of drawers are:

release free space in the bedroom due to the fact that linen, bedding, etc. can be stored at the base of the bed;
neat and aesthetic appearance;
reliable storage of things for sleeping, which come into less contact with environment;
no hassle with drawers, from which it is difficult to get pillows and blankets.

As for the minuses, there are only two of them. The first is that if you purchase a spring version, you will have to spend a lot of effort to raise the stock. The second is carrying capacity. Only the version with gas elements can withstand heavy loads.

Criteria for selecting a lifting mechanism

In order for the bed lifting mechanism to work efficiently and properly, the following details are important when choosing.

To summarize, we note that a bed with a lifting mechanism is a very successful and convenient option for owners of small bedrooms. Such a bed will visually increase the space of the room, giving it an attractive look.

Construction of a wardrobe bed and its mechanism

Making a wardrobe bed with your own hands is no more difficult than making a regular bed designed for an orthopedic mattress. It can be made in the simplest and most economical version, or have a reinforced design that will allow the bed to be used for a long time. However, all types of such furniture have the same and very important element. This is a lifting mechanism for a wardrobe bed. Manufacturers produce these devices for almost any type of folding beds. You can purchase them for installation on single, one-and-a-half, double, and even bunk wardrobe beds. All of them differ not only in price, strength, or mechanism design, but also in the duration of operation, which can be up to 50,000 operating cycles.

Prepare the tool and select the material

Furniture manufacturing must always begin with the selection of materials and tools used in the process. Since most of the work will involve wood processing, the appropriate tool must be prepared. You will need:

jigsaw;
screwdriver;
roulette;
pencil;
construction hair dryer for gluing edges on chipboard.

The choice of material from which you will make a wardrobe bed depends only on your preferences and experience with this material. The simplest is laminated chipboard, with which most of the work is done various furniture, or OSB (oriented strand board) that replaced it. If you want to make your own bed from solid wood, and have experience in such work, then no one is stopping you from making your own wardrobe-bed from wooden boards or panels.

We make a wardrobe bed with our own hands

This type of bed consists of three main parts:

Frame;
Bed base;
Wardrobe bed mechanism

The frame is manufactured not only as decorative element covering the bed on all sides and creating the illusion of a wardrobe, but also as the main part, bearing a considerable load during operation. The size of the frame should be such that the bed itself and the mattress fit freely into the niche and are completely covered by the walls on all sides. The finished frame is installed in the space reserved for the bed and securely fixed to the wall with dowels and screws.

We make the base of the bed according to the same principle as the frame, but taking into account the new dimensions. Remember that the raised base must fit completely into the frame and look like one piece with it. An excellent option would be to use a base for orthopedic mattresses. All you have to do is cover it with laminated chipboard and install a lifting mechanism. It goes without saying that in this case the dimensions of the main frame must be selected taking into account the dimensions of the finished bed base with the mechanism installed on it.

After the frame is securely attached to the main wall, the base of the bed is completely ready, and the pre-purchased mechanism is attached to it, all we have to do is attach the mechanism to the frame. This must be done in such a way that when raising and lowering the bed there are no distortions, which sooner or later will lead to breakdown of the entire system.

The last stage is adjusting the mechanism, after which the bed should special effort rise and enter the niche, and when lowering, do not fall with the entire mass onto the floor.

A bed with a lifting mechanism is the best option for small apartments, which allows you to solve several problems related to the improvement of the room at once. Practicality, reliability and versatility are its main advantages. It can act not only as a sleeping place, but also serve as a chest of drawers for storing various things and accessories. Making a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If all the requirements and recommendations of specialists are met, the bed will turn out no worse than the factory one. In order to figure out how to do this, it is necessary to divide the entire process into several stages, each of which requires special attention.

Features of such models

Beds with a lifting device have a number of features that must be taken into account when making them yourself:

the dimensions of the bed, which mainly affect the strength of the lifting device. The larger the bed, the more weight will be placed on the mechanism. According to the standards, the bed size is 2 meters in length, the width of a single bed is 0.9 m, a double bed is 2 m;
beds with a lifting device can be single or double;
the mechanism can be mounted horizontally or vertically;
The height of the bed affects the capacity of the box. If the product is planned to be made with legs, then the box will be much smaller than a bed without them. A product without legs has another important advantage: the absence of dust underneath;
Assembling a product with your own hands requires consistent, responsible implementation of all its stages, these are drawings, preparation of materials, manufacturing of individual parts of the bed, and their assembly. On average, it will take 1-2 months to make a bed, subject to the simultaneous completion of other daily duties;
the choice of material should be made not only from personal preferences, but also depending on the design of the room in which the product is planned to be installed.

Bed with steel frame Diagram of a bed frame with a lifting mechanism Diagram of a bed frame with a lifting mechanism

Bed assembly diagram

Materials and tools

Any construction process or making furniture with your own hands begins with drawing up a drawing, as well as preparing the necessary tools and materials. The choice of material begins with the base of the box. The most common and inexpensive material for making any furniture is chipboard sheets. But other materials, such as OSB, particle boards and others can also be used, it all depends on the preferences of the owner and financial capabilities. Next, the upholstery material is prepared, the choice of which depends solely on personal preferences and the design of the room.

The filling of the bed consists of foam rubber and upholstery fabric. Their dimensions and thickness are prepared according to the drawn up drawing.

The most accessible and inexpensive material for making a bed is chipboard

To process the material and prepare it for installation work With your own hands you will need the following tool:

level;
roulette;
pencil or marker;
jigsaw;
screwdriver with different attachments;
grinder with a metal disc;
welding machine;
construction hair dryer;
steel strips;
furniture stapler.

Orthopedic base

Base materials

Elevator transformation system

Which lifting mechanism to choose

Design modern beds allows them to be used in rooms of different sizes, while having a suitable lifting mechanism, thanks to which the bed can be reclined both horizontally and vertically. Besides, lifting beds classified according to the type of built-in lift. The simplicity and ease of use of furniture depends on it. The lifting mechanism is divided into 3 types:

with manual lift;
spring;
on gas shock absorbers.

Gas lift Spring Manual

The manual lift mechanism is the most accessible device, because it does not contain additional devices in the form of shock absorbers or springs. Beds with such a mechanism are mainly used for adults, since when opening the box you need to make a lot of effort, children cannot cope with such a load. But, besides the disadvantages, the manual mechanism also has advantages - strength, durability.

The spring mechanism is convenient to use, but its service life ranges from 3 to 5 years, after which it will need to be completely replaced. The main cause of failure is wear and stretching of the spring. The big advantage of the spring mechanism is its price; it is relatively small, thanks to which it is very popular and in demand.

The gas shock absorber is the most convenient, reliable, durable mechanism. The device operates smoothly, silently, with virtually no human intervention. The service life of such a mechanism ranges from 5 to 10 years, with constant use. The choice of shock absorber is made depending on the dimensions of the product and the weight of the sleeping frame. The mechanism on gas shock absorbers is expensive, but at the same time in demand.

When making a bed with your own hands, a lifting device can be bought in furniture stores or ordered online. You can make it yourself from suitable materials. But when choosing materials, you need to take into account the fact that the load from the mattress falls not only on the shock absorbers and mechanism bars, but also on the fastening points with fastening fittings.

The mechanism is fastened in the following order:

first, the upper strip of the device is installed, to the base of the box, the lathing of the sleeping plane;
to completely secure it, a bar is made from rolled iron;
assembly of the next two slats will allow you to control the height of the rise of the grid with the mattress;
the lower support bar is attached to the main box; it is necessary to facilitate the sliding of the hinge supports;
Having finished installing the mechanism, you need to check all its fastenings.

The gas lift is mounted on a rack base

Mechanism on gas shock absorbers

Installation of gas shock absorbers

Making a lifting frame

Assembling a lifting frame with your own hands consists of two main stages, these are carpentry and carpentry work and the processing process.

Carpentry work:

assembly begins with the preparation of parts for the frame, according to the drawing, which indicates all dimensions;
Next, the base of the frame is assembled, this is a box of calibrated boards. The process must be carried out on the floor to avoid distortions. To align the corners, you must use a construction square;
The structure is tied using metal corners, and for strength, the joints are glued with wood glue. When fastening, you need to pay attention to the heads of the screws; they should sink into the wood, but not too much. It is recommended to immediately treat any cut areas that appear;
when large sizes it is recommended to make a central partition along the frame for the sleeping place;
the next stage is the fastening of the slats, which are screwed using screws with inside sidewalls, aligning them along the bottom edge of the box. They are needed to attach lamellas to them. The size of the slats should be within 20 by 80 mm;
The same slats act as slats, only their length will correspond to the width of the bed. They are fastened to support rails along the frame, in increments of no more than 15 cm. Plywood is also suitable for slats, but in this case the installation of a central partition is required;
At this point the carpentry process is completed and the lifting frame is ready.

Frame processing:

this process involves refinement wooden parts using sandpaper or a special sanding machine and coating them with varnish;
One of the nuances of preparing the frame is a plywood sheet, which lies on the lamellas to evenly distribute the load. Or you can lay the lamellas with a step frequency of 8–10 cm.

Frame assembly

The sides of the bed are attached using corners and screws

Finished bed frame

Making the main frame

The assembly of the frame, like all other components of the bed, is carried out in stages. First of all, to manufacture the main frame, its components are prepared. Design, height, size of backrests, presence of legs - all these nuances are reflected in a pre-drawn drawing. The main requirement in the manufacture of a product is reliability, strength and quality of the material.

As mentioned above, any material can be used, depending on financial capabilities and personal preferences. For a double box standard bed(2000x1800) you will need: for the side parts - two boards 207 cm long, for the end elements you need two boards 182 cm long. They are assembled according to the same principle as the lifting frame, using screws, corners and glue. In the assembly process, this moment is the most critical, so before attaching the corners, you need to check that all corners correspond to 90 degrees. Excess glue that has come out must be removed immediately so that in the future it does not cause difficulties when processing the frame.

During production large beds With your own hands, you need to install a stiffener in the main box, through the longitudinal axis of the product. If the bed design includes legs, the last step in the installation process is their installation. The simplest option for making them is to assemble two bars (40x50) and install them at the depth of two crowns of the bar. To strengthen the structure, you can also install a leg in the center. Having placed the structure in its original position, you can proceed to its processing, clean it and varnish it.

Fastening slats for plywood bottom

Bed legs

The legs are attached inside the frame

View from the outside

To prevent the floor from scratching, you can glue pieces of linoleum to the ends of the legs.

Sheathing of the product

The final stage in the manufacture of a bed with a lifting device is its design and upholstery. Depending on the design of the room, the personal preferences of the owner, as well as banal financial capabilities, cladding can be done using:

fabrics;
skin;
dermantine.

If the product was made from quality wood You can treat it with paints and varnishes.

For the cladding process you will need:

fabric (or other selected materials);
construction stapler;
sheet foam rubber.

The covering is done on the main frame and headboard. To create a small volume and airiness of the upholstery material, a pad of sheet foam rubber is made between the wood and the fabric. A construction stapler is quite sufficient for fastening fabric; its metal staples, thanks to the spring mechanism, are driven quite firmly into the wood and hold the fabric tightly.

Legs are wrapped in upholstery material

Final installation legs

The sides of the bed are covered with foam rubber

Foam rubber is nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm

Leatherette upholstery

This is how the side around the leg was finished

The leatherette was lined at the bottom with a slouch, without a turn-up

The corners of the upholstery are fixed

Making a headboard

The headboard for the bed can be made of the same material as the entire product, or you can use a regular sheet of plywood. You need to take the necessary measurements on plywood or other material and use a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the back that you like best. But you need to keep in mind that during the cladding process it is easier to work with rectangular shapes.

A headboard blank is cut from a sheet of plywood

A wooden border is attached to the workpiece

The upholstery of the headboard follows the same principle as the main frame, using construction stapler, sheathing material and foam sheets. The difference is that for the headboard the covering should be more airy, so two sheets of foam rubber are laid between the plywood and the material. Depending on the design of the bed, using foam rubber and different types material, you can give a unique look to the headboard.

Fastening foam rubber

Second layer of foam

Thick batting finish

Stretch the fabric

Finished headboard

To summarize, we can say that when thinking about how to assemble a bed with a lifting mechanism, you should not be afraid of difficulties, because it is quite possible to do it yourself. The main condition for obtaining a good result is the consistent implementation of all installation stages, the first of which is drawing up a drawing, where all dimensions, amount of material, necessary tools. If all geometric proportions are observed, the bed will turn out to be of much higher quality and more reliable than the purchased version. The material for its manufacture is selected depending on personal preferences, financial capabilities and room design.

I realized that I no longer have the strength to sleep on a fold-out sofa corner. The sofa is old (8 years!!!), the filling is wrinkled in places, the back feels hard unevenness and hurts in the morning.

To begin with, my wife and I decided to drive around and look at shops and fairs for a bed + orthopedic mattress. We decided on the size of the sleeping area - 1400 x 2000. This is also suitable for the subsequent layout of the room.

The bedroom set (bed, wardrobe, bedside tables, etc.) is not suitable for us, because... The bedroom is small – 9m2. What remains is just a bed.

The prices were different - from 6500 rubles. (chipboard + plywood) up to 50,000 and above.

I liked something similar:

just without the headboard. (Soft sides without sharp corners + simplicity... in short, I liked it!)

The price of such a bed (without a lifting mechanism) is about 15,000 rubles. You can put a lift in the bed you like (more + 12000). Total – 27,000 rubles.

A lifting mechanism was needed because... The apartment is small and the presence of additional compartments for different things is a resolved issue.

I decided to make the bed myself (no experience, but I know how to work with tools).

An orthopedic base was found for 4,500 rubles.

Transformation system - elevator: 1200 rub.

I sketched out a sketch and thought about how everything would be arranged. I roughly calculated the lumber and went in search of boards for the sides and legs. ( Important: Solid boards There is no required size. You need to buy a tongue and groove board (window sill or something similar). Not knowing this, I bought a floorboard with veneer for gluing (thickness - 35 mm, width - 150 mm) at the rate of three boards per side. For the legs I took 100 x 100 mm timber. Upon purchase, all boards and beams were cut to size.

At home I picked up and glued (PVA-based carpentry glue) three boards: Long side – 2010 mm, short side – 1420+35+35=1490 mm. (I first estimated the gap with which the gas lift works - about 10 mm from the lifting bar to the wall of the bed to which the gas lift is attached. Hence 1420 mm). 35mm - board thickness.

The disadvantage of the floorboard is that it has a slight curvature - a “propeller” (take the window sill - it is straight). That’s why I spent a long time choosing and adjusting which boards would fit in what way.

As a result, I picked up and glued 4 boards. Board size: L1=L2=2010mm, L3=L4=1490mm.

Because the orthopedic base rests on 4 corners and a longitudinal plane in the middle, I glued another board that will serve as a support for the base. L5=2010mm

Leg size: L1=L2=L3=L4=450mm. The timber was damp and therefore cracked slightly while it was drying. But this did not affect the process and quality. It is important to let the wood dry. I made the bed slowly, so the legs had time to dry.

The sides of the bed needed to be rounded. This was done in two steps: 1 – electric jigsaw at an angle of 45°; 2 – belt sander(approximately).

Next, all sides of the bed were assembled using corners and screws. The difficulty was that the three boards turned out to be almost straight, and one of the sides (it was supposed to be placed with this side towards the wall) was a “propeller”. Therefore, the “straight” sides were attached first:

Coming to the 4th corner, we have this curvature:

The board was forced to fit and fastened with a long self-tapping screw into the end of the board:

Things are not going well at the bottom of this corner either:

Due to the fact that the bottom of the board was pulled to the side due to the “propeller”, a wedge was placed. WITH outside I simply cut off the protruding board.

I rounded the corners using the same technology: (the holes for attaching the legs are visible)

Since there are metal corners in the corners inside the base of the bed, there was a need for additional processing of the legs (grooves with a belt sander):

The holes for attaching the legs were measured and drilled. The height of the legs is the same as the width of the sides. Shift of legs downwards by 60mm.

Trial installation of legs:

All screws are in place: (There is room on top for an orthopedic base + a side to stabilize the mattress)

Pieces of linoleum were glued to the ends of the legs (top and bottom). From below so as not to scratch the floor, and from above for an orthopedic base:

After gluing the overlays, I glued and wrapped the legs with upholstery material, and secured the edges with a stapler. Holes for mounting screws are cut:

I set up the bed and figured out how the orthopedic base would fit:

This is approximately how it will open on elevators. There is no support board yet under the middle of the base. It moves down like the legs - by 60 mm.

Let's start tightening the sides of the bed. First, foam rubber S-10mm:

This is the underside of the side of the bed. The foam comes from the edge of the board, because... there will be slats inside the base for support plywood base boxes. The foam rubber is glued to the sides.

This is one of the corners. The foam rubber is turned, cut and nailed with a stapler.

The foam rubber is nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm.

When joining the foam rubber, an insert was used locally and by eye (it will not be noticeable):

This is how the side around the leg was finished. Bottom view:

(This is exactly that leg, in a crooked corner. This thickening is the wooden insert).

The leatherette was lined at the bottom with a slouch, without turning up. The width of the overlap is equal to the width of the slats that will hold the plywood bottom. At the top it was lined with a collar for beauty. I haven’t figured out how to start the corners yet...

The corners were brought in and secured. If there was leather, maybe it would be stretched beautifully with small folds.

This is what it looks like from the outside:

I turned all the corners. It turned out soft and rounded. At this stage I glued a strip of linoleum onto the support board.

I covered the ugly corners of the middle board with the remains of leatherette:

I check the tight fit of all four legs and the support board to the orthopedic base. (Note: The middle board is difficult to fit in one go. Do not rush to screw all the screws into the corners, screw 2-4 at a time and check the fit of the base).

The next stage is slats for the plywood bottom. I screwed slats with a section of 25x40 along the entire internal perimeter. Drill large holes in the rail for self-tapping screws.

Son Andrey helps. He lubricates the screws in soap, places them in the batten and hits them with a hammer so that the screw fits into the board. And I'm just spinning

Almost done…).

Since the resulting roller on top of the side slightly overlaps the orthopedic base, when lowered the base holds and does not fly up.

Gas shock absorbers are selected depending on the weight of the orthopedic base + mattress. My gas shock absorbers are rated for 80 kg.

We ordered a mattress and it finally arrived. Moisture-resistant cover on top:

The mattress lies high and the gap between the mattress and the base is visible.

CONCLUSION: It is necessary to move the legs and the middle support board not by 60 mm, but by 90 mm. This will allow the mattress to fit more tightly into the base.

All. The bed is ready. Estimated cost of materials (without mattress): 9 – 10 thousand rubles. We bought an expensive mattress because of back problems.

The bed has been tested. Very stable, nothing creaks. The wood used was dry and should not dry out.

Despite the wide range of furniture items in stores, people still prefer making their own beds.

After all, in this way you can choose the type of construction, materials of manufacture, design and dimensions of the sleeping bed. Besides, making furniture with your own hands is a very pleasant and useful task. You yourself will create a comfortable place to sleep from safe and environmentally friendly materials.

There are different models of beds. But most owners of small apartments prefer models with lifting mechanisms. Their advantages include:

saving free space;
original and aesthetic appearance;
availability of additional space under the mattress for personal belongings.

Materials

Before you start making a bed with a lifting mechanism, you should wisely select the consumables. You can make furniture from the following materials:

Advice: in addition to lumber, when making a bed with a lifting mechanism, it is worth paying attention to the fittings, guides and the lifting mechanism itself. The durability and strength of the product will directly depend on it. Here it is better not to save on the purchase of furniture components, but to purchase products from proven and well-established manufacturers.

Types of mechanisms

The lifting mechanism itself is:

Which option to choose should be based on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Advice: if you want to make a practical and durable bed, give preference to a mechanism with gas shock absorbers. If you are going to make an economical option, for example, for installation, you can choose a simple mechanical mechanism.

Drawing

After choosing a bed model, its dimensions, materials of manufacture and type of lifting mechanism, it is worth making a drawing based on a preliminary sketch of the product. Thanks to its presence, It will be easier for you not only to do detailing individual elements, but also to assemble a complex structure. There are several options for making a drawing:

you can make it yourself if you know how to draw;
you can use special computer programs, downloaded from the Internet;
You can contact a furniture company, where, in addition to a competent drawing, you will be offered to do the detailing of all individual elements.

Tools

To make a bed with a lifting mechanism you will need the following tools:

From materials you will need:

lumber (the easiest way to make a product is from chipboard, OSB, MDF);
upholstery materials;
foam;
self-tapping screws;
fasteners;
lifting mechanism.

How to do it yourself?

Manufacturing and assembly

Let's start the workflow:

Installation

The mechanism itself is sold ready for installation. First you need to secure it to the timber frame of the base, then attach it to the side.

Advice: The mechanism will hold better if it is welded to a metal frame. You can also assemble the rest of the bed on it.

Finishing

When it comes to finishing, there are several options:

Photo

Such furniture is both functional and attractive:

Useful video

All stages of assembly can be seen in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it is worth noting that it is possible to make a high-quality and practical bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands. The manufacturing process will take a lot of time, given that you will independently develop the design of the product, select a lifting mechanism, manufacturing materials, and draw a sketch.

As practice shows, it takes people about a month to self-assembly beds with a lifting mechanism. But as a result of your efforts, you will get a durable, practical and comfortable bed that meets your personal needs, general interior rooms and features of the bedroom.

In contact with

The design is quite simple and has been tested not for centuries but for millennia of use. For a regular model without turned posts or legs or carving elements on the backs, you don’t need any special skill or much experience. It will take accuracy, patience and time.

And they name designs in a very wide size range. But if you start making it yourself, then it’s worth making a model that exactly matches your needs. The parameters are defined as follows:

width – the future user lies on his back, closes his fingers and spreads his elbows to the sides. The distance from elbow to elbow plus 10–15 cm on each side is called the comfort zone. For a double bed, the ideal width would be equal to the sum of such zones;
length – height of the tallest user plus 30–40 cm;
height - on average 50–60 cm. But if the bed is intended for an elderly person, it can be made higher. If a podium bed is intended, then the height should be less.

The next factor is the weight of one or two users plus a 15% safety margin. The weight of the load determines the thickness of the timber and chipboard sheets.

The material is selected as follows:

the frame is made of wooden beams - there are no other options here. If you have experience working with a welding machine, the frame can be made of metal, but wood is much easier to process. besides, a wooden bed with your own hands always looks “more dignified;”
backs and sides are easier to make from chipboard and MDF. The latter option is preferable, since its density, and, therefore, durability, is higher. In addition, when assembling the bed, it is fastened with glue: for MDF, ordinary PVA or a similar “Joiner” is used, for example. When gluing laminated chipboard, you will need nitro glue, which is not always desirable;
a slatted bottom is much better than a solid plywood bottom. You can make the slats yourself, but if you want to provide the bed with orthopedic properties, then it is better to purchase ready-made ones. The slats for orthopedic bases are glued together from several layers of wood and have a slightly convex shape.

It is much easier and cheaper to order blank backrests from a furniture shop, providing the dimensions and indicating the desired shape. Usage professional tool provides much more precise contours and a clean cut; in addition, in the workshop, the products are sealed with an edge to match the color of the material.

Self-production from MDF sheets purchased at retail price will cost more.

Drawings for making a bed with your own hands

Single Podium bed With drawers Wardrobe bed Double

Depending on the design, different fastenings may be needed. The most commonly used is:

self-tapping screws are phosphated, as they have a rough surface and adhere better to glue. Diameter 5–6 mm. The length of the screw should be equal to the amount the thickness of the parts that it connects minus 10 mm;
metal corners - with a rounded wide stiffener. There should be no burrs or ripples on the products - this is a sign of overstretched metal;
nails 60–70 mm with a ring notch;
Instead of dowels, if durability and reliability are required, it is recommended to use dowels.

At self-production You will definitely need a clamp to ensure a tight connection. One of the advantages homework– no time limit, which allows you to drive and glue self-tapping screws with a clamp, ensuring high strength of connections.

Photo wooden bed with your own hands

Manufacturing technology

The general scheme is similar for all options. First of all, the sides and backs are made, then the parts and frame are fastened, then the bottom is installed. On last stage mount additional accessories like drawers or lifting mechanism for the base.

The following video clearly demonstrates how to make a bed from solid wood with your own hands:

Single

Any bed consists of a supporting frame assembled from wooden beams - at least 50 * 50 mm. The outer part consists of the backs - headboard and footboard, and the sides - drawers. The frame is covered with boards, slats or a sheet of plywood - the bottom. In the latter case, ventilation holes must be drilled in the plywood. Making a single bed with your own hands is as follows.

The backs and sides, if they were not ordered, are made from chipboard or MDF sheets with a thickness of 25 to 40 mm. The workpieces are edged.
Tsargi - sidewalls, are cut from ordinary planed boards 40–60 mm thick and 150–200 mm wide. The outside of the boards is painted or varnished.
The wooden beam is treated with antiseptics, dried, and cut to the size of the frame. The parameters are determined by the design: whether the mattress lies in the lounger or is on top, whether the footboard will be higher than the level of the lounger or coincide with the sides, and so on.
The product can withstand the greatest load corner connections, so the fasteners are duplicated here. The boards of the sidewalls and backs are connected with dowels, and the bars are selected in quarters.
All holes for dowels and screws are drilled in advance and when connecting parts, for example, a bar and a frame, they are coated with glue and held with a clamp for 24 hours.

All holes are blind; through drilling is not allowed.

The location of the beam on the back and drawer is determined by the design. If it is lying in a plank bed, then the distance from the upper edge of the sidewall is the sum of 30–50 mm and the thickness of the bottom - boards or a sheet of plywood. If the mattress is on top, then the indentation will be the thickness of the flooring.
After the timber is securely glued and secured with self-tapping screws, preliminary assembly is carried out. The backrests are installed vertically - on temporary supports, then the sidewalls are applied, and the resulting frame is checked for squareness.
The structure is tied with a rope, and on the backs, holes for dowels are marked with a pencil - 2 per end, with an indentation of ? its width. Then the drawers are removed, holes are made in the backs, the holes are lubricated with some coloring composition- at least with a felt-tip pen. Again, the drawers and backs are connected so that the space for the counter part of the hole is imprinted on the side boards. The bed is disassembled, holes for holes are drilled in the drawers.
The holes on the sides are coated with glue, dowels are inserted into the holes and held in place with a clamp. Then the bed is assembled on dowels, that is, the backrest is placed on pins in the drawers and adjusted with a mallet until it fits tightly. In this case, the frame quarters are also lubricated with glue.
The frame is covered with three turns of rope. For tight tension, pieces of pipe, pieces of wood, etc. are inserted between the rope and the bed. The rope should be very tight. The product remains in this position for 2–4 days.
Holes for the dowels are drilled in the frame and installed with glue. The covering is not removed. After drying, the corner fastenings are duplicated metal corners. In a design with backs, legs are not needed, since it rests on the headboard and footboard, but if desired, they can be installed by attaching them to a timber frame.
Flooring made of boards 20 mm thick and 80–100 mm wide is secured with glue and nails. For each edge - 2 nails. If a slatted bottom is purchased, then the batten holders are distributed along the frame, and the slats are fixed in them.

The following video clearly demonstrates how to make a single bed using the fashionable capito technique:

DIY double bed

A do-it-yourself double bed is made in a similar way, but requires reinforcement - a spar. This is a longitudinal bundle of boards 40*100 mm. Maybe 2 or 3 spars depending on the size of the bed.

It is secured with glue and nails - 2 nails on each side diagonally. The fastening is duplicated with steel corners.

The spar should form one plane with the frame.

The video below will help you make your own fashionable podium bed today:

With lifting mechanism

Assembling a double bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands is a painstaking, but worthy task. The lifting mechanism consists of two steel bars connected coil springs or spring shock absorbers. It is not difficult to secure the device to the bed, but it is very important to correctly calculate its load capacity. To do this, you need to calculate the weight of the base and mattress, and then choose the appropriate option.

The design of the bed in this case is different. Legs are not provided here; the drawers and sides touch the floor equally. The timber frame is at the very bottom - with a distance from the bottom edge of 30–50 mm plus the width of the flooring. A plywood bottom is required; it acts as the bottom of the box.
The base for the mattress is assembled as an independent product - wooden frame and flooring slats.
The steel bar of the lifting mechanism is screwed to the timber frame of the bed, the second bar is installed on the base frame.
When lowered, the frame is laid on thrust bars: they are cut from the same wood as the bed frame and secured to it with glue and self-tapping screws. There must be at least two bars for each side.

Schemes for creating a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands

Scheme 1 Scheme 2 Scheme 3 Scheme 4

Wardrobe bed

You can do it yourself. The design consists of the same 3 elements - a frame with a mattress, a bed box and. But at the same time, these elements are located differently and carry a different load.

The frame for the mattress is called the face frame and includes a timber frame, transverse and longitudinal crossbars. The structure is assembled using glue, and the fastening is duplicated with nails. All crossbars and frame must form one plane.

Since the front frame is part of the cabinet when closed, higher requirements are placed on its design. Typically, the cabinet door imitates a laminated chipboard sheet.
Folding legs are attached to the frame.
The box - preferably made of boards, not chipboard, is assembled with glue and nails. A longitudinal board is mounted at the bottom. After assembly, this part of the bed is securely fixed to the wall.
A lifting mechanism is installed - one strip is fixed to the side of the front frame, the second - to the side of the cabinet.

DIY wardrobe bed

Making a bed is a task quite feasible for home handyman. With a little extra effort, the product can be given a more elegant look, for example by upholstering it in fabric or leather. Well, if you have experience working on a milling machine, then a homemade bed can be turned into a real masterpiece.