Insulation of the second floor floor in a wooden house. How to insulate the second floor in a wooden house Insulating the 2nd floor of a wooden house

Your own wooden house is the most environmentally friendly type of human home, which almost every city dweller dreams of acquiring. Today you rarely see one-story buildings; the 2nd floor of a private house is a full-fledged living space for arranging a children's or guest room, bedroom, recreation area. At the stage interior decoration The question of insulating the second floor often arises - how to choose the right materials, what rules to follow, are there any restrictions on the use of insulation?

Full floor or attic?

Floor insulation is a procedure the implementation of which depends on design features premises. The master may not build a second floor in the general sense of the word, but make do with a simplified version of the superstructure - an attic.

The difference between the first option and the second is the proximity of the roof; the roof of the house is immediately located above the attic. Therefore, all work aimed at preserving heat inside the attic has its own characteristics:

the walls of the second floor of a wooden house are insulated both inside and outside;
choice of insulation for modern market quite wide, it all depends on the preferences of the builder and his financial capabilities;
Insulation of the 2nd floor of a wooden residential building is carried out without installing a vapor barrier system, which is simply necessary for finishing the attic.

Algorithm for insulating the 2nd floor floor

Above the second floor in wooden house There must be an attic space. To prevent heat from the first level from penetrating upward, it is important to insulate the ceiling well. The thermal insulation layer will consist of several materials laid in a certain sequence.

Traditionally, the “pie” for insulating the second floor of a wooden private house consists of the following elements:

lower floor ceiling;
a layer of construction paper;
scheme load-bearing beams made of quality timber;
a layer of mineral wool placed in cells formed by beams;
paper again;
any flooring option.

The listed sequence should not be violated, otherwise the effectiveness of the hydro- and thermal insulation of the upper room may be greatly affected. If a teenage music lover lives on the second floor of the house or the house is located close to the roadway, you will have to take care of soundproofing the walls and floor of this room.

In addition to insulation, 2 layers of plywood are added to the multilayer “pie” to create a sound barrier. If expanded clay is used during the insulation process, a dry concrete screed is placed on top.

How and with what to insulate the ceiling on the second floor

When the ceiling on the 2nd floor is insulated, you can take care to prevent heat loss through the ceiling of the room. The attic is in contact with its ceiling and roofing. Insulation in in this case mineral wool is a material recognized by builders with many years of experience. Craftsmen who care about the ecology of the planet choose ecowool. The selected type of wool is placed in the cells formed by the roof truss structure.

Many mineral wool manufacturers have started producing products in slabs; laying elastic elements between rafters is faster and more comfortable. Plates can be placed on the ceiling of the second floor in several ways:

pressing mineral wool into cells truss structure. In this case, the thickness of the slab should not be less than 20 cm. The method is the most expensive of all existing ones, but is very popular among master builders due to its ease of implementation;
installation of mineral wool slabs under the rafters and between them, for which additional frame elements are installed. The described method has its fans, the costs of material and labor are reasonable;
styling slab insulation only under the rafters, which requires additional sheathing. The reduction in the volume of the attic is a consequence of such insulation; home owners rarely make such sacrifices.

If the ceiling of the 2nd floor is not directly under the roof, but under the attic, the ceiling is insulated on both sides. In other words, first the floor of the second floor is insulated, then the ceiling, then the attic floor. The reason for this approach lies in the lack of heating in the upper level of the building. To implement the plan, a film is laid on the ceiling of the second floor (a barrier for heat escaping into the attic).

Thermal insulation of the walls of the second floor of a wooden house

To insulate the walls on the second floor of a wooden private house, two technologies are used at once:

internal thermal insulation, which is produced in a ventilated way;
external insulation, there are two options: dry and wet.

Internal thermal insulation is undertaken when it is not possible to carry out external work to preserve heat inside the building.

Popular with interior work low for a number of reasons:

reduction usable area second floor;
freezing of the external walls of the house, leading to condensation and gradual destruction of the material;
Condensation is the main “culprit” for the development of mold, which poses a danger to the cleanliness of the microclimate of any home.

When insulating walls from the inside, it is important

Adhere to the following rules, which will reduce the disadvantages described above to almost zero:

thorough preparation of the walls - filling the cracks with tow, treating surfaces with antiseptics;
fastening horizontal slats to install a ventilation system that provides air access to the heat insulator;
installation of a vapor barrier membrane;
installation of vertical posts for subsequent fastening of mineral wool slabs;
insulation is laid between racks made of timber or aluminum profile;
Further on the technology is fastening the second layer of vapor barrier;
final finishing with clapboard, plasterboard, chipboard or other building material at the choice of the owner of the house.

When using external wall insulation, the sequence of work is similar to that described above, the only exception is that the ventilation sheathing is not installed. These 2 methods of thermal insulation are performed “dry”, but in practice the “wet facade” method of insulation is often used.

Insulation of the facade of a house using the wet method is carried out as follows:

preparing walls with antiseptic treatment;
gluing mineral slabs to special composition, additional fastening of the material with umbrella dowels;
gluing to insulation reinforced mesh, leveling the mixture using a wide spatula;
applying a thin layer of glue, final leveling it on the walls;
plastering the walls, if required - painting the facade.

How the attic gable is insulated

How to insulate the second floor wooden house from the gable of the attic? The work algorithm in this case is as follows:

installation of beams on the walls of the pediment;
the distance from 1 beam to another should be equal to the thickness of the insulation sheet plus 0.5-1.0 cm;
the first layer is a vapor barrier material;
next - installation of mineral wool slabs;
again - vapor barrier;
covering with any finishing material.

It is worth noting that in wooden houses, lining is most often used to decorate the attic. There are many reasons for this: the natural origin of the material, high environmental friendliness. The excellent external characteristics of the lamellas allow you to create unique interior premises.

Important: the fewer holes and seams in the attic insulation, the better the project for saving heat inside the home will be completed.

Thermal insulation of the loggia and windows on the second floor

The “weak” point of any room and attic are glass surfaces, window and door openings. The lion's heat flows out of the rooms through them. Even if plastic double-glazed windows were initially installed in the window and doorway of the loggia, it is necessary to additionally insulate the slopes.

Material for insulation of window and door slope on the 2nd floor wooden building Any one can be chosen, but experts recommend using expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam or any other cellular product.

An important point is that windows and loggias can only be insulated at the stage of building a house - gaps are required for installing insulation.

Proper insulation of the second floor ceiling will reliably protect your home from the penetration of cold air. In addition, this will increase sound absorption and provide protection from moisture. Next, we will consider all the nuances of this operation.

To insulate the space between floors you can use various materials. Next, we will consider the most popular of them and their features.

Styrofoam

This is the least effective analogue, which is still popular today. It can only be recommended for residents of warm regions where houses do not require careful thermal insulation. Its main advantage is its low cost. In addition, it provides excellent sound insulation (on the lower floor you will not hear footsteps or furniture moving). Another plus is that it is easy to work with.

There is no point in listing all the disadvantages of polystyrene foam, because it has the worst technical characteristics in its class. In cold regions, its use is practically pointless.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Most often it is called penoplex, and is also confused with polystyrene foam (they are similar in appearance). What they have in common is only the raw materials, but the production methods are fundamentally different. As a result, this insulation is very dense, so it can be immediately plastered or used as a subfloor. Features are as follows:

High density.
Lowest thermal conductivity (best in class). This indicates maximum efficiency.
Convenient to use (easy to cut).
Harmless to humans.
Very a light weight, so there is no need to create robust construction between floors.
Lights up (class G4). Apart from the high cost, this is the only drawback.

Despite its thinness, it is a very effective insulation material (second only to penoplex). It can be recommended in cases where the space between floors is not enough to insert a thicker mat. However, such material is often used for other reasons.

It is sold in the form of rolls 100-120 cm wide, and the thickness can reach 2 cm. It almost completely reflects heat, preventing it from escaping. main feature- is not at all “afraid” of moisture, so it is often used to create a moisture-proofing layer. For houses located in the far north, we can recommend the combined use of penoplex and foil polyethylene (layered as vapor barrier film).

Minvata

Mineral wool is the most popular insulation material today, which is used in all areas. The basalt variety is the most effective, so that’s what we’ll focus on.

Tip: for warm regions, you can safely use glass wool.

Let's highlight the key advantages:

Non-flammable (unlike glass wool).
High compressive strength.
Good hydrophobicity.
Gives additional sound insulation (in this it wins over penoplex). On the lower floor you will not hear footsteps from above.
Resistance to natural and chemical irritants.

It is difficult to identify any clear disadvantages (apart from the high cost). Along with penoplex, this is the most effective option.

In the presented table you can see a comparison of the described insulation materials according to their main characteristics.

The technology for insulating the floor between floors of a wooden house is practically no different from standard insulation procedures. However, certain nuances are still present. Therefore, we will consider this process in detail.

Studying preliminary manipulations

Insulating the interfloor space of a wooden house will reliably retain heat. This procedure consists of laying thermal insulation material between the beams. The simplest option is to carry out the work on the second floor (that is, lay the floor). If you install from below, you will have to attach the insulation to the ceiling, which is much more difficult (installation in a canopy takes a lot of effort). First you will need to carry out preparatory operations:

We are completely removing the entire floor from the second floor. First we dismantle finishing coat. If it is plywood or a similar material, then unscrew the sheets with a screwdriver. With laminate, parquet or linoleum it is even easier - you just need to remove the covering.
We also disassemble the rough coating. If the house is relatively new and everything is in good condition, then do this carefully so as not to damage anything. Subsequently, you can install everything back.
As a subfloor for the second floor (if we're talking about about a wooden house), as a rule, they use thick plywood or “magpie” (a board 40 mm thick). If the covering is screwed on, we use a screwdriver, and for the nails you will need to pull it out.

Important! You can only step on the beams, because the ceiling of the first floor of the house will not support the weight of a person.

As a result, we must get to the wooden beams that serve as the guarantor of the strength of the house. There should be nothing between them, so we remove all debris, remnants of old insulation (if any), etc.
Wooden elements of the house need additional protection, so we coat the entire space with antiseptics or similar compounds. This will prevent the wood from rotting.
So that during the work you can safely walk on the second floor, we throw several boards along the beams.

Laying thermal insulation and final stages

So, the space between the floors has been prepared and all that remains is to insulate it. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We carefully evaluate the integrity of the coatings - through cracks are unacceptable. If there are any, cover them with sealant or cement mortar. Even the slightest cracks will promote air circulation, which will lead to heat loss and the active formation of condensation.
After ensuring the integrity of the coating, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier film. It will protect the heat insulator from condensation (from the 1st floor). In stores you can find many analogues with different characteristics and, as a result, prices. However, in terms of efficiency, there are few differences, so there is no point in purchasing expensive models.
We measure the space between the beams and add 10-15 cm to it. Cut pieces of film and glue it to the surface. The material should extend slightly onto the beams (this is why the excess was left).

Advice: if there is space between the timber and the covering of the first floor, then it is better to lay the film under it over the entire area.

Installation diagram

Now we lay insulation in the interfloor space, avoiding even the slightest cracks. If mineral wool is chosen, then we trim it with a margin, since it shrinks.
We lay a second layer of moisture insulation on top (on the beams) over the entire floor area. The result will be something like a sandwich - a structure in which the thermal insulation material is reliably protected from all natural factors.
We cover the joists (with plywood, boards, etc.) and lay the finished floor.

That's all. To achieve maximum protection of your home from cold air, it is necessary to insulate all floors, avoiding the slightest cracks.

Problems associated with thermal insulation in private construction require open discussion so that the owner can personally understand how to insulate the second floor of a wooden house.

However, in this article we will talk about attic rooms in buildings various types. So each of our readers will receive for themselves helpful advice or information.

How to choose materials for heat and vapor barrier, calculate their consumption and lay them correctly - we’ll figure it out step by step.

Stages of roof planning and preparation

The first thing you should take care of when arranging a future attic or attic living space is the height of the ceilings and the ability of the roof to withstand loads from the snow mass.

As for the pitch of the rafters, it will depend on latest characteristics, as well as on the selected type of roofing - for heavy tiles you should choose a pitch of no more than 80 cm.

Before insulating the attic floor, you need to install waterproofing under the roof. This should be done before flooring is done. roofing material.

There is nothing dangerous in using materials such as roofing felt or waterproofing, although they are cheap and outdated. But we recommend choosing modern roll insulators such as Izospan or anti-condensation films.

During this time, you should adhere to the following waterproofing scheme:

The material or film is rolled out and attached to the lumber surface (lumber no thicker than 50 mm). There should be a small gap between the future roof and the waterproofing for ventilation needs;
If the roof has already been erected, you will have to lay the waterproofing film directly inside, on top of the roof sheathing at a distance of 50 mm from it;
The film or other material mounted on the sheathing cannot have joints at the ridge in order to allow air masses to circulate;
If the roof has a pitched structure, it is advisable to provide cross-ventilation from the ridge to the eaves and back.

Scheme of hydro and vapor barrier of the roof

Take into account the slope of the roof and the associated thickness of the air flow, which can reach 40-50 mm.

Insulation of the under-roof space

Thinking about how to insulate an apartment top floor, or room, take into account the structure of the roof and the location of the enclosing structures.

Thus, the following elements may occur:

Sloping sections of the ceiling following the curves of the roof;
Pediments and other architectural details;
Low vertical ceilings in attics;
Horizontal attic floors.

Some of these structures will have to be reinforced and reinforced before installing insulation. If the distance between the rafters is so large that the width of the insulation sheet is not enough, it will be necessary to install additional frame structures between them.

If there are no horizontal or vertical fasteners, they can also be added.

Insulating the ceiling of an apartment from the outside

Let’s imagine a situation in which the task is to insulate the ceiling in an apartment on the top floor. External insulation can be made using the following materials:

Mineral wool – best insulation natural in nature, environmentally friendly, but its use is advisable only at the stage of construction and roofing. .
Expanded clay– will not only prevent heat loss, but also protect the home from the danger of fire, because created on the basis of refractories made from baked clay. Absolutely indifferent to moisture, microorganisms, does not produce harmful emissions;
Ecowool– based on cellulose fibers, environmentally friendly and breathable material;
Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam- cheaper polymers that retain heat, but do not breathe.

This way, you ensure that the choice of insulation depends on your budget and in the interests of maintaining or sacrificing environmental friendliness. Insulation of walls outside multi-storey building assumes the presence of a structure based on walls for fastening thermal insulation - a special frame.

If we are talking about a roof, you can lay sheets or rolls directly on the cleaned surface using special glue. Next, the roofing or cladding is laid.

Tip: you can combine two types of insulation by pouring a layer of expanded clay onto the laid rolled material. This will prevent excess moisture from entering and the possibility of fire.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

If we are talking about the fact that the roof has already been laid, or the insulation of the walls of a multi-story building from the outside does not cope sufficiently with heat loss, you can strengthen the ceiling structure indoors using the same heat-insulating boards discussed above.

Note! First, waterproofing is carried out, after which the material is laid and then the ceiling is sutured with gypsum board.

It is recommended to fasten the thermal insulation with glue or using butterfly clips, maintaining a small gap. The slabs are attached to the ribs of the profile frame and covered with sheets of plasterboard on top. Produced in the same way frame insulation walls Moreover, it is not recommended to insulate everything, but only the structures in contact with the facade of the building.

Advice: if insulation is carried out in the cold season, you should first heat the base and dry it.

Scheme of the attic "warm pie"

Photo diagram of attic insulation from the inside

When insulating the second floor or attic space, builders often choose a reliable and simple scheme:

The first “layer” of the pie is the rafters of the roof structure with sheathing and waterproofing installed on them;
Between them, with an indentation from the sheathing, insulation is laid;
A vapor-permeable membrane is laid directly on the insulation, designed to protect from through winds and moisture. If the roof is lined with metal tiles or ondulin, lay a film protecting against condensation;
The film under the insulation should be tightly clamped with slats and nailed to the rafters;
The finishing is laid on top, taking into account a distance of 2-5 mm from the vapor-permeable and heat-reflecting vapor barrier.

We insulate the floor and gables of the attic

Do not forget that insulating the floor of the second floor will save not only the upper room, but will also ensure the preservation of heat below. Before starting it, it is necessary to ensure a decent vapor barrier.

Then you can lay it out on cement screed types of insulation familiar to us and put on top flooring.

Do not forget that the gaps between the walls and the cornice should also be treated with rolled material and covered with a board or floor covering.

As for gables and other structures, it is advisable to follow the loggia insulation scheme:

If the exterior sheathing has already been done, the insulation boards are placed on the inside on top of the waterproofing. Please note that if the timber is thinner than the insulation layer, there is no need to press or compress the latter; it is better to fill a new layer of timber on top;
If there is a possibility of external insulation, a vapor barrier is laid first, then insulation, and only the waterproofing is covered with siding or other sheathing on top.

Solving vapor barrier problems

When performing roof and interfloor insulation in a wooden house, they do not always take care of laying the vapor-condensate film. Due to the difference in temperature inside and outside the room, condensation is formed with a probability of almost 100%. This effect can create the illusion of a leaking roof.

To save mineral insulation and wooden roofing elements from rotting and mold, you should think about some details:

First, process everything wooden parts antiseptic composition such as Pinotex;
Use over laid roll material film vapor and wind protection coatings that are capable of retaining condensation moisture, as well as vapor barrier film. Such a vapor barrier can be located at the bottom of the insulation, while wind barriers can be located at the top, between it and the roof;
Choose famous brands– Monarflex, URSA, Yutafol or Elfoil, which you can easily fix with your own hands, taking into account the roof scheme.

FAQ

How to choose a layer of insulation?

It all depends on the thickness of the frame or rafter boards. Climatic conditions and temperature changes are also taken into account.

For example, when making interfloor insulation from basalt or mineral wool, you should take at least 18 cm in thickness, but to be sure you can round it up to 20-23 cm.

Note! All seams must be covered, and if the height of the insulation exceeds the height of the frame, it is better to stuff counter-battens on top.

Taking into account the subsequent vapor barrier and the gap between it and the insulation, all 30 cm of space that we “steal” from the ceilings will be required.

What density should I choose for insulation?

The minimum indicator for working with pitched roofs not less than 15kg per square meter. Otherwise, voids may form over time.

To be sure, let's denote the range from 15 to 35 kg/cube meter. Of course, the price will depend on the density, so calculate your budget by choosing the middle ground.

Should ceilings or windows always be insulated?

Many builders bypass the laying of material between the attic and the first floor, performing only soundproofing from sand. If the attic is not heated, it is necessary to install insulation, always with a vapor barrier.

But the insulation plastic windows, or rather, their slopes, will not hurt.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high tech, computer technology, programming.

Some time ago I completed an order for attic insulation for winter accommodation. While doing the work, I thought that the technology I used was quite simple and even an untrained person could make thermal insulation from the inside with his own hands.

In today’s material I will tell you what is better and how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands. This instruction will help you avoid making mistakes that I had to face at the beginning of my construction career.

I assure you, upon completion of the work, the attic floor of a wooden house will turn from a useless storage of rubbish into a cozy and comfortable room, in which all your household will fight for accommodation.

Features and methods of insulating an attic space

Before talking about ways to insulate the under-roof space from the inside, I want to note that it is necessary to do this, even if you are not going to live in the house in the winter. The fact is that the attic, due to its location, is strongly heated by the sun in summer time, therefore, without a reliable insulating layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or you will have to install a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary living spaces and think that you know how to insulate an attic, I have to disappoint you. Thermal insulation of a room under the roof (not an ordinary room on the second floor, but the attic) has some features that I simply must mention:

The geometry of the attic space follows the contours pitched roof, therefore far from a standard cube or parallelepiped. The insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces, so the choice thermal insulation material will have to be approached with special care. For example, the use of too soft and flexible products is completely excluded.
The roof truss system and roofing covering are always made of lightweight materials so as not to place a large load on load-bearing walls Houses. Consequently, the heat-insulating cake should weigh so much as to only slightly weigh down the structure, otherwise the roof may collapse under a significant snow load.
In addition to the roof slopes, the attic has two more gables and a floor (it is also an attic floor). If you do not thermally insulate these surfaces, all efforts to install insulation in the rafters will not lead to any significant result.

Roofing material, no matter how reliable it is, can allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, which, in turn, can damage the insulating layer or significantly reduce it specifications. Therefore, during installation it is necessary to reliably protect the thermal insulation from moisture.
When buildings catch fire, the fire usually moves to the top of the home, where the attic is located. Therefore, to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-combustible or low-flammable insulation. After all, the matter is further aggravated by the fact that the roof rafter system is made of wood, which cannot be classified as NG.
Well, the last point is environmental friendliness. Care must be taken to ensure that the insulation does not pose a danger to people living in the attic, regardless of its operating conditions - heating, humidification, freezing, and so on.

First, let's decide on the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

Insulation of attic walls. This method is used when the roof slopes are not attic walls. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions made of wood, plasterboard, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
The advantage of this method is the presence of additional ventilated space under the roof. The downside is a reduction in the usable area of the room.

Insulation of roof slopes. In this case, the heat insulator is installed in rafter system, after which you can divide the spacious attic using thin partitions, without worrying about cold or heat. The advantage is that the entire under-roof space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions you can divide it into several separate rooms, arranging an additional storage room in attic room.

I prefer the second method of insulation, so it will be discussed further.

Selection of materials and tools

It's time to decide how to insulate the attic space from the inside. To do this, you can use polystyrene foam, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool and many other heat insulators that are offered for purchase by domestic and foreign industry.

But I insulate the attic using basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, the best way meets the requirements for the thermal insulation layer of such a room.

I will briefly list the most important advantages basalt mats:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material retains heat indoors so well that effective thermal insulation It is enough to install a layer 10 cm thick.
Hygroscopicity	Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so moisture that gets inside is quickly removed through the gaps without reducing the performance properties of the material.
Vapor permeability	The material does not interfere with air infiltration, normalizing humidity in the attic and extending the service life of wooden parts.
Non-flammability	Basalt wool does not ignite in a fire and helps to extinguish the flame, giving time to evacuate people or eliminate the source of fire.

I could talk for a long time about the advantages of mineral wool, but this is not the topic of today’s article. Therefore, I simply noted the better way to insulate the attic from the inside.

I prefer to use TechnoNIKOL Technolight Extra basalt mats, 10 cm thick, measuring 120 by 60 cm. It is not advisable to buy denser material, since it will not experience loads between the rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the dimensions of the material. I chose TechnoNikol mats because their width is 60 cm, which is exactly the distance between adjacent rafters in the case I am describing.

In addition to direct thermal insulation, other materials are also needed:

Wooden blocks with a cross section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a counter-lattice will be formed for ventilation gaps that help remove moisture.
Super-diffuse, vapor-permeable, hydro- and windproof membrane. These films are especially high quality from the companies Strotex and Juta, so I recommend buying them.
Penofol. Thermal reflective material that I am going to use instead of the standard vapor barrier film that protects the mineral wool from moisture from inside the room.

Antiseptic primer. It needs to be processed rafter supports roofs to avoid the appearance of mold and mildew. You can buy a composition with fire retardants, thereby increasing fire safety the buildings.
OSB boards. They will be needed to construct the sheathing on which the flexible tiles on one side and eurolining on the other. If you are going to use other materials, then continuous sheathing may not be necessary.
Polyurethane polyurethane foam. Useful for sealing seams between mineral mats.
U-shaped perforated brackets for mounting galvanized sheathing. For me they will hold installed mineral mats in place until they are sewn decorative material.

Well, now you can safely move on to how to insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands.

Arrangement of insulation

The entire insulation process can be divided into several steps:

So, I’ll explain how to properly do the work with your own hands in each of the mentioned stages.

Step 1 - Laying waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start with installation waterproofing membrane, since it is installed outside the room before fixing roofing. This is the only way to reliably protect the insulating layer from atmospheric moisture entering it.

I’ll say right away that the entire roof truss system in the case I’m describing was installed. However, the roofing material and sheathing have not yet been laid.

The process consists of the following steps:

I roll out the first layer of hydro- and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slope, gradually moving upward. The membrane is secured with staples and construction stapler or nails with wide heads. It is necessary to install the film not under tension, but with a slight sag (about 2 cm per meter) so that it does not tear when the air temperature decreases.

I lay the second and subsequent sheets of waterproofing film. You need to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the upper membrane should overlap the edge of the lower membrane by a distance of 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability to moisture.

I seal the seams of the membrane. Adhesive tape is used for this. It just needs to be glued to the joints of adjacent waterproofing membranes.
I'm installing a counter batten. Her role is played wooden blocks, which are secured with self-tapping screws on top of the waterproofing membrane on the rafter supports. I recommend pre-impregnating them with an antiseptic and fire retardant to extend the life of the roofing structure.
I secure the additional sheathing boards. They are installed perpendicular to the rafters and fastened with self-tapping screws to the counter-grid. The step between adjacent parts is about 40 cm.

I am installing OSB base boards. They are attached to the boards using self-tapping screws. Here you need to monitor the length of the fastening fittings so that too long screws do not tear the hydro- and windproof membrane located below.

I install flexible roofing. To do this, an underlay carpet is glued to the slabs, after which shingles of flexible tiles are fixed to it.

If you are insulating an attic with a finished roof, then the waterproofing membrane will have to be installed with inside. This method has two disadvantages:

the labor intensity of the work being carried out increases;
the waterproofing film will not protect the wooden roof rafters.

It is necessary to secure and seal the film so that it wraps around the rafters and adheres to the roof sheathing. Thus, unique baths are formed into which insulating material will be placed.

But before this, it is necessary to prepare the under-roof space for the installation of mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparing the rafter system

I prepare the space under the roof, namely the rafter system, for thermal insulation:

I clean the wooden parts from dust and debris, and remove objects that interfere with the installation of mineral mats. It is best to clean the rafters with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove dust, sawdust and shavings remaining after installing the roofing material. You should also check to see if the sharp ends of screws, nails, etc. are sticking out anywhere. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

Editing engineering Communication and insulate them. Ventilation and chimney pipes can be installed on the roof, as well as the electrical wiring necessary to connect household appliances in the attic:
- Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in an uninsulated part of the attic, must be thermally insulated using mineral wool or foam shells.
- For chimney a box should be designed to pass through attic floor and roofing. They need to be filled up heat-insulating material(most often perlite or expanded clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
- Electrical wiring should be placed in polymer flexible or rigid cable ducts, which will prevent the rafters and insulation layer from catching fire in the event of a short circuit.

I prime wooden surfaces. For work, it is better to use a universal composition that has both antiseptic and fire-fighting properties. For example, composition for wood BS-13 or Fire and Bioprotection Sentinel-2. It must be applied to wooden parts using a roller or spray, processing in two layers with intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

I install U-shaped brackets on side surfaces rafters It is not necessary to use them, since when correct installation rafters mineral mats and so become tightly spaced. But I’m used to playing it safe, and their purchase does not greatly impact the budget planned for insulation. But if you use cotton wool in rolls, you can’t do without it.

Step 3 — Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of the attic from the inside continues. Let's move on to the main part:

I am cutting mats. Mineral wool is cut into the required pieces using sharp knife or files with very fine teeth. If the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation, there is practically no need to trim.

I install mats between the rafters. To do this, you need to bend the material slightly in the middle, and then insert the insulation into Right place. Having straightened out, the basalt mat will take its intended place and will not fall out of the inclined surface.

I secure the mats with brackets. You just need to bend part of the bracket so that its edge rests on the surface of the mat and holds it in place. Instead of brackets, you can use galvanized perforated strips that are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafters.
I seal the seams of the material with polyurethane foam. The gaps must be filled using a gun. Moreover, act so that the composition is inside the entire crack, and not just on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges may form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat-insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of insulation. Just take mineral mats with a thickness of not 10, but 5 cm. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are spaced apart. And you don’t have to worry about cold bridges at all, although it’s still worth sealing the seams.

Step 4 - Finish Coat

Decorative finishing of the enclosing structures of the attic room is carried out as follows:

I install a heat-reflecting and vapor barrier layer. As you understand, for this I will use penofol - foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
- The first sheet of penofol is installed with a foil layer towards the living room, after which it is aimed at the rafters using a construction stapler.
- The second and subsequent sheets of material are installed so that between separate elements There was an overlap of 10 cm.
- The joints of penofol are glued with double-sided adhesive tape (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to ensure that a completely homogeneous and sealed layer is formed.
- If the thickness of your rafters is such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the cut of the wood, then penofol should be laid over the surface of the mineral wool, secured to the side surface of the roof support beams. Otherwise, it may rustle when air passes through the ventilation gap.

I install counter battens to create a ventilation gap. You need to screw the planks using self-tapping screws to the rafters on top of the foam foam. Thanks to these details, a gap is formed between finishing and a heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove condensed moisture.

Installing OSB boards. They are attached to the counter-lattice using self-tapping screws. Everything is standard here, except for some small nuances:
- It is necessary to install the sheets so that there is a gap of 1-2 cm thick at the edges (at the gables and the floor). This is necessary to remove excess moisture and compensate for possible changes in the size of the material.
- The seams between adjacent slabs should run randomly (in a checkerboard pattern) and be 2-3 mm thick to avoid warping of the surface during thermal expansion of the base.
- The slabs must be secured so that their edges are located on the counter-lattice bars. The distance between the screws is no more than 20 cm.

You can later install eurolining or other decorative material on the slabs. And we have ahead of us the insulation of the gables, which form two of the four walls of the attic room.

Step 5 - Insulating the gables

I strongly recommend insulating these parts of the attic from the outside, using dense mineral wool, which can be covered on top cement plaster. The work flow is as follows:

I prepare the surface for work. To do this, you need to clean the surface of the walls from residues. mortars, debris, dirt and dust. After this, the following operations are performed:
- Damage repair. If gaps and cracks are found in the masonry, they must be sealed with cement mortar or blown out with foam.
- Surface priming. To do this, you need to take a primer for brick or (not the one you used to treat the rafters), and then cover the gables with it in two layers with intermediate drying.

I am installing the starting profile. This is a perforated galvanized part on which the insulating layer will rest. It is fixed at the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If several of these parts are needed, install them with a small gap to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

I glue the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- The surface of the mineral wool is pre-reinforced cement glue, which is evenly distributed over the slab using a spatula.

A bead of cement glue is applied to the mineral wool at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Several lumps of glue are also placed in the middle of the mat so that at least 40% of the surface of the sheet is covered.
The part is applied to the wall. in this case, its lower end must be supported by a pre-established starting profile. Using a water level, it is necessary to check that the basalt mat is installed strictly vertically in all planes.
After the first layer, other mats are glued to the wall in the same way. It is necessary to monitor the verticals and ensure that the seams between adjacent parts are minimal.

I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats. There are no differences here compared to the procedure described in the previous paragraph. You just need to make sure that the vertical ones run away. That is, the seam of the top row was in the middle of the insulation sheet of the bottom row (as in brickwork).
After the solution has hardened, I secure the insulating layer with dowels - “fungi”. They are installed as follows:
- A hole is drilled directly through the mineral mats in the wall using a hammer drill, the depth of which in the brick or concrete should exceed 2 cm.
- A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
- Using a hammer, the core is driven into the dowel so that its head is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
- It’s not just mineral mats that need to be secured. “Mushrooms” should be installed in the seams of the insulating material so that the thermal insulation layer does not come off under load.

I seal the seams of the material. To insulate the seams, polyurethane foam is used, which glues the insulation fibers together, preventing the formation of cold bridges at the junction of adjacent mineral slabs. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as tightly as possible.
I reinforce the insulation surface with alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. To do this, mineral mats are coated with a reinforcing compound, after which a mesh is placed on it and pressed into the solution with a plaster float. Then a little more solution is applied on top so as to completely hide the mesh inside.
I am plastering the surface. The reinforced insulated surface of the gables is plastered and then decorated with the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the pediment with facade paint.

That's all. Some still resort to thermal insulation interfloor covering, however, with such powerful insulation that I described, I consider this procedure unnecessary.

Summary

Now you know how to do it yourself at the lowest possible cost. proper insulation walls in attic floor and do-it-yourself floors using mineral wool. However, there are other options.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, which can be used to easily insulate difficult areas, including the Mauerlat in a heated attic. You can learn how to spray polyurethane foam yourself from the video in this article.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments!

September 7, 2016

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Many residents of our country prefer to live not in cramped apartments, but in their own houses. One of the most popular options is a wooden house. A wooden house is perfect for living big family. Wherein own house- this is not only harmony and comfort, but also constant troubles that arise even at the construction stage. One of the most important problems in the process of erecting a wooden building with 2 floors is insulation of both the lower floor of the building and the upper, that is, the second.

With the first, everything is basically clear; a standard algorithm for carrying out work is used here. If we talk about insulating the second floor of a wooden house, then everything is not so simple. The second floor has many different features in terms of insulation.

It is worth considering the fact that the second floor may be located in a room that is heated in winter period. This makes noticeable adjustments to the work. On top there may be not just a ceiling, but an attic or attic that is heated. Thus, it turns out that the insulation of the second floor largely depends on some nuances.

About the design features

It is immediately worth noting the fact that nowadays construction does not so often involve the construction of a second floor in a wooden house. Most often in the private sector you can see houses that are equipped with an attic instead of a second floor. In this situation, insulation has several features. Everyone knows that the attic space can be located directly under the roof.

How it will need to be insulated also depends on the shape of the second floor. If we talk about the walls of the second floor of a wooden house, then they are insulated not only from the inside, but also from the outside.

Currently, there is a huge variety of materials on the market, mainly board materials are used.

Expanded polystyrene is most often used. However, other insulation materials can be used. If we are talking about carrying out work on a full second floor, you can completely eliminate the vapor barrier from the structure. If we are talking about an attic room, then you can’t do without a vapor barrier.

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Insulation of the second floor of a wooden house

If the house has an attic, then there must be a thermal insulation layer on the floor of the second floor. It will consist of several layers located one below the other. It is very important to follow the sequence of laying each layer. Otherwise, there is a high probability that a floor will be obtained that will not have sufficient thermal insulation and waterproofing. So, the floor covering will have the following sequential layers:

flooring;
paper;
mineral wool, which will be laid between wooden beams ceiling;
load-bearing beams made of fairly strong and powerful timber;
construction paper;
ceiling of the lower floor.

It is in this sequence that all layers must be laid. Sometimes it may become necessary to install a soundproofing layer on the second floor. This should only be done if someone regularly stays in the attic or if the house is located very close to a road.

Soundproofing will get rid of all extraneous noise.

Here you will need to lay not only insulation, but also two layers of plywood, which will act as a sound insulator. If expanded clay is used, a dry floor screed may be necessary.

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Insulation of the second floor under the roof

There are also situations when the second floor is located directly under the roof of the house. In this case, mineral wool is most often used for insulation. This material has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Currently, numerous specialized companies are engaged in the sale of these products. construction stores. If a person experiences warm feelings To environment, then you can use ecowool. This material is environmentally friendly. Mineral wool should be installed tightly between all elements of the rafter structure.

Elastic mineral wool slabs have become widespread. They are the ones who are best suited in this situation. Due to their flexibility, they are easy to install between rafters. In this situation there are several possible options laying mineral wool. The main ones are:

Pressing mineral wool between rafters. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the thickness of the material used should not be less than 20 cm. In this case, it is much easier to lay mineral wool, which is simply pressed between the load-bearing elements of the structure. Of course, there can be no talk of any savings in material. This method is considered the most expensive of the existing ones, but it is currently used quite often due to its simplicity.
Laying mineral wool both between the rafters and under them. In this case, we are talking about installing additional frame elements. The work is also not labor-intensive, and the costs are slightly lower than in the first option. This method of laying mineral wool is currently considered one of the most popular for wooden houses.
Laying mineral wool under the rafters. This method involves constructing additional elements designs. The volume of the room in which installation is carried out is significantly reduced. Due to this nuance, in those houses where an attic is built, this type of insulation installation is used extremely rarely.