We bring to your attention a master class on making plasterboard partitions. In this article you will find all the information a novice installer needs. We will also outline the technological and operational features of the gypsum board walls.
Partitions made from plasterboard panels assembled on a metal frame have long been considered a classic of the genre. Such designs have been successfully used abroad for several decades. They appeared here in the nineties and with their functionality they literally charmed developers and professional builders. At first it was difficult to find everything necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology of installing frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often native Russian ingenuity). Now we have at our disposal completely complete systems and detailed technological maps from manufacturers. Never before has an organization internal space wasn't that simple. These are truly universal systems that are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.
Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of plasterboard walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics regarding reliability and durability have not been justified. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including those where it is humid; fire resistance and penetration protection are needed.
Ten reasons to choose plasterboard partitions
Let's look at the main advantages of gypsum plasterboard partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:
- Dry technology. Okay, almost dry - there is no escape from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full plaster or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself also needs to be dried.
- Weight. Again no competitors. The load on the subfloor or ceiling will be minimal (for single-layer lining, the weight per square meter is about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition on top of wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak slabs of Khrushchev-era buildings, etc.
- Load bearing capacity. It has never happened before that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Volumetric dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet 12.5 mm thick, one fastening point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (data from the Knauf company): Kitchen Cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of plasterboard) you can safely load up to 50 kg. This is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The numbers are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer cladding of the frame. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. We'll tell you how to do this below.
- Soundproofing. It is always possible to lay acoustic insulating materials between the load-bearing profiles. For an ordinary living space, the right mineral wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all options for partitions of the same thickness (insulation index from 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise is localized by using damper pads under the guide profiles. A correctly assembled plasterboard partition does not “bounce” when the profiles are closed interior door They don't "rumble". If you need to create a super-protected space, you can use multi-layer lining, cladding special panels, assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). You can't achieve the same results with an array.
- Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if it is covered with a special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of cement-based aqua panels. If there are really unfavorable neighbors upstairs, then “green” HA can be used throughout the apartment, and to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped in polyethylene. Profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, since they are galvanized.
- Presence of cavities. It is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications inside frame partitions. This is an excellent solution for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to install sewerage, plumbing, heating, and electricity. For ease of installation of routes, the metal racks have special perforations; additional windows can be cut with a grinder. The partition can easily accommodate mortise electrical boxes and panels, plumbing boxes, etc.
- Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique angles, niches, arches, openings. Possible height is up to 9.5 meters, length is not limited (only compensating expansion joints are needed every 15 meters). The partition can be secured to the suspended ceiling and to the sheathed walls (both along the frame and with mounting adhesive).
- Intrusion protection. A pressing issue in public spaces - offices, warehouses, offices, etc. The problem is effectively solved by more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multilayer cladding and screwing sheets of galvanized metal 0.5-1 mm thick to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the layers of cladding).
- Low cost. With traditional single-layer cladding, a plasterboard wall is about half the price of a brick wall (with plastering) and about 15-20% cheaper than tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation prices.
- Easy to install. Anyone can master the technology; it’s much easier than sheathing walls or ceilings. The fact is that here you don’t need to set up the frame thread by thread, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is planned out by the developers from start to finish, in fact, frame gypsum plasterboard partitions forgive their builders many shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and differences in planes on partitions are very rare. And yet, the only power tools you need are a screwdriver and, possibly, a light hammer drill. The speed of construction is a record. Two qualified people (a foreman and an assistant) can easily assemble a frame and sew up a partition with an area of about 15-20 m2 in an eight-hour shift.
Technology for constructing plasterboard partitions
It is best to start installation after installing the subfloor (good planes make it easier to mark the contours) - although technologically wet and dry screeds can be done after the partitions. As we have already said, wall frames can be attached to ceilings and walls covered with gypsum plasterboard. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can build the frame of the partition and carry out the sheathing, but the markings have to be done by two people, since a tapping cord and a plumb line are used everywhere. The most productive work There will be a master + assistant in the link.
Marking
In order to transfer the dimensions and location of the partition from the drawings to reality, as a rule, they start from some load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply put two points at the required distance and connect them; it is a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked using a large square, or by placing a sheet of drywall in place.
However, for large structures the errors from hand tools can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). A good way to get an exact right angle is to draw Egyptian triangle, in which mutually perpendicular sides are multiples of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is multiple of 5.
We recommend marking lines for plasterboard partitions using a tapping cord or a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then transferred to the ceiling, although some manuals suggest doing the opposite. When working with the tracer, be very careful that the cord does not catch on anything, and be sure to thoroughly sweep the floor.
Now, using a plumb line, we transfer our markings to the ceiling. For each line you need to have two marks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the string of the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of an assistant, smoothly moves it until the point aligns with the bottom line. The one who corrects the weight at the floor must carefully stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything comes together, a mark is placed along the axis of the thread.
It is interesting that some installers mark the ceiling from an already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.
At this stage, we suggest immediately marking the points on the floor that indicate the edges doorway, if he is. The main thing is, do not forget to leave a 20-30 mm margin, so that later a installation gap 10-15 mm on each side.
We strongly recommend (although few people do this) to use a tracer to connect the ceiling line with the floor line on the wall - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. This way we will have vertical markings to control the installation of the wall profile.
Frame assembly
The width and length of the profiles used are selected depending on required parameters partitions. In most cases, the optimal width will be a frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles, which, with a single-layer lining, form a partition 100 mm wide. It makes sense to use fiftieth profiles only if the cladding will be done in two layers.
Before installation, the PN profile (guide profile or UW) must be covered with damper tape from below. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions from enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which is applied from the back with two threads into special grooves.
We lay the prepared sections of the PN along the marking lines and through mounting holes we make fixation. Fastening into the mineral massif is carried out using “quick-installation” dowels 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a hammer drill. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special drop-down dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases use self-tapping screws with a press washer.
During fixation, in addition to checking along the line, be sure to apply a rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile is easily bent by an arc. In the area of the doorway, the profiles are secured with two dowels; for reliability, you can install even more fasteners.
Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first, so as not to fall asleep or trample the marking line.
The end vertical profiles are inserted inside the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, they install PN, but it is more technologically advanced to use PS, since two guides superimposed on each other in the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the outermost PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rules, they are fixed.
Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the installation points of the racks. The pitch of PS (UW) profiles must be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third is for ordinary partitions in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, and also if three-layer lining is used.
The marks at which the substations are installed in the design position are placed using a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not indicate the centers of the rack profiles, but their edges. We recommend correlating the first marks on the ceiling and floor with each other using a plumb line, and then measuring the rest from them, so that all the racks will be strictly vertical.
We prepare PS profiles piece by piece according to length and insert them into the guides. The length of the racks should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point; for sagging floors and in seismic zones, this gap should be 20 mm. If there are lines running inside the partition engineering communications, then insert the rack profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.
Attention! The shelves of all PSs must be oriented in the same direction, with the exception of only one rack that forms doorway.
Rack profiles are fixed to the PN shelves using cutting pliers or LN 9 mm self-tapping screws with a drilling end. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.
The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If installed here door block, then the racks need strengthening. To do this, two PS profiles are assembled into a rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even beam is inserted into it to its full height on one side with a cross-section of 40 mm (it will fit freely into the box). After inserting the beam, the prefabricated element of the opening is scrolled with LN screws on the cladding side and with TN 25 screws on the opening side ( wooden beam attracted to metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-shaped structure to organize the opening.
A jumper should be installed between the racks at the required height (be sure to take into account what level the finished floor will rise to, and allow a gap of 2-2.5 cm above the door). The jumper is made from a piece of PN, which is cut in the form of a double-sided “stick”. Also, the short parts of the “stick” can be bent down. We screw this element strictly horizontally through the eyes to the racks, using four to five self-tapping screws on each side.
Short PS profiles are inserted between the lintel and the ceiling PN; they must be spaced from other frame elements with a given pitch to ensure joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the desired direction.
Covering the subsystem with sheets
Cladding panels with long edges with a thinned edge must necessarily be joined in the middle of the rack profiles. The sheets are installed in the direction where the shelves of the PS profiles are facing, then the shelves will not bend under the influence of the screws. If the height of the sheets is not enough to cover the entire partition, then they must be placed with the joints staggered in height.
The drywall is placed in the design position and screwed with TN metal screws at intervals of no more than 250 mm. You should retreat 15 mm from the edge of the short side, and at least 10 mm from the edge of the thinned edge. At the joints of adjacent sheets, the screws should be spaced 10-20 mm apart. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the countersunk head does not break through the top cardboard layer.
Attention! A gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained between the sheet and the enclosing structures, so temporary pads of suitable thickness are used in the floor area.
To ensure that the short joints of the sheets are also on the metal, measured sections of CD or PN/PS profiles are screwed to them between the posts. When screwing in the screws of the additional short sheet, you should not put too much pressure on the jumper, so as not to tear it off the panel on which it is already fixed.
If the sewing is carried out in several layers, then the vertical joints of sheets of different tiers must be made on different racks.
Very important point- this is the joining of drywall at the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet should always be placed on a short post located above the door (at least 20 cm).
When the partition has been lined on one side, the necessary communications can be made and embedded elements can be inserted. It is convenient to use moisture-resistant plywood 20-30 mm thick as anchors for heavy objects; OSB and dry timber may also be suitable. Sheets of plywood of suitable size are screwed through the body of the drywall (between the studs) in specified locations big amount self-tapping screws Mortgages for low-lying weights (for example, heating radiators) can be rested on the floor.
At this stage, a soundproofing layer is laid into the cavity of the gypsum board wall, after which they begin to sew the frame on the other side. Sheets that overlap the opening are cut using a saw and knife, cut edges All panels are embroidered.
Attention! Joints of sheets used for sheathing different sides partitions should not fall on the same supporting rack.
Arrangement of corners and junctions
The joining of gypsum board partitions (T-shaped and corner) should only be done through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to screw the mating frame with metal self-tapping screws (35 mm long) to the embedded rack of the adjacent wall; therefore, additional PS should be provided in the right places.
A complex knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme PS profiles of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close to each other as possible, and then on both sides of the corner they are twisted with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The strip width must be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied over the entire height of the seam.
Round plasterboard partition
To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut into sectors 5-10 cm wide with a grinder. Along the outlined radius, the PN is secured with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel/screw must be used for each sector.
Curved posts are inserted at intervals of no more than 300 mm and fixed in the design position in accordance with the general rules.
Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:
- Two layers arched plasterboard 6 mm thick are located horizontally. The combination of two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought to the plane of the main wall.
- A 12.5 mm gypsum board wall panel is pricked with a needle roller, moistened by spraying and deformed on a template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum permissible radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is done with a roller from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
- A 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors about 5 cm wide (the remaining layer of paper must not be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is stretched out with putty.
As you can see, the technology for making plasterboard partitions is quite simple. If you carry out all operations carefully and follow the rules we have outlined, you can assemble walls of any complexity, because this is just a construction set.
Video on the topic
The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly smooth walls. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down old plaster and completely plaster along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using plasterboard. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.
How to cover walls with plasterboard
First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:
The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.
For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.
Attachment to frame
Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.
GKL dimensions and purpose
A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:
- 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
- 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.
It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers position thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.
Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.
How to dock
If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).
If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).
How to attach and in what steps
When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select those that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.
During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.
To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.
When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.
Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.
Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).
These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).
Plasterboard partition
Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.
Marking
First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.
If laser level no, you will have to use a regular construction plumb line (of good quality). First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.
Marking a partition using a level and plumb line
It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.
Frame assembly
We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.
PN profile has standard depth(wall height) - 40 mm, but can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or sound insulating material you can put it there.
Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.
The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders, when working independently with drywall, attach it to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.
One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: both the shrinkage of the house is provided for and unpleasant sounds No.
The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.
If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.
It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.
After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.
The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - place it every 60 cm, if small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the same height door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing them inside wooden block.
Laying communications
After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or at wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).
Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation
After laying communications, installation begins plasterboard sheets. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.
The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:
In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.
How to cut drywall
When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. For this you will only need a sharp stationery knife(for paper), a long, flat object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
- apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
- We place a block under the cut line;
- on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
- we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
- bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.
It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).
Video lessons
Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.
How to make a false wall from plasterboard
How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.
Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? There are different models of profiles on the market, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.
Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible; you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.
The installation of interior plasterboard partitions seems to many to be a complex process, accessible only to experienced craftsmen. Following our step by step instructions, you can easily install an interior partition with your own hands, without having any special skills.
Drywall is one of the most comfortable materials for installation of interior partitions.
Benefits include:
- ease of installation;
- availability of materials;
- vastness design possibilities on creation various forms and the components of the partition - arches, niches, shelves;
- easy dismantling;
- light weight that does not create a load on the floors;
- possibility of finishing with any materials - paint, tiles, wallpaper, PVC panels;
- frame structure allowing intracavity insulation and sound insulation.
Plasterboard partition. Installation instructions
A Few Basic Steps detailed instructions and a minimal set of tools will allow you to create a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands.
Preparatory work
Before you begin installing the partition, you need to carefully consider its design, operational functions, and design. To do this, make a detailed drawing of the room with the future wall.
If necessary, visit local BTI authorities to approve the project.
Empty the room as much as possible from furniture, or cover it with film.
Decide what material you will make the frame from. The base can be metal or wood. Metal profile - convenient and reliable option, unlike wooden beams, does not require drying to prevent deformation twisting, or treatment with antiseptics. The profile is resistant to moisture, fungus, and mold.
Think in advance about all communications passing through the partition, wiring, and the position of sockets.
Preparation of materials and tools
You will need 12.5mm or 9.5mm drywall. 12.5 mm sheets are most often used. You can also use the “nine”, provided that the profiles are arranged more frequently. However, keep in mind that in this case the sound-absorbing and vibration-resistant properties of the structure are reduced. Also, to install a partition in a room with high humidity, it is recommended to use GKLV (moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets).
A sealing tape is placed at the joint between the profile along the contour of the partition and the enclosing structures.
Starting (guide) profiles and rack profiles are used:
- UW 50x40 under CW 50x50 - if the cladding is planned in one layer up to 7.5 cm thick or in two layers up to 10 cm;
- UW 75x40 under CW 75x50 - for single-layer up to 10 cm, double-layer up to 17.5 cm;
- UW 100x40 under CW 100x50 - in one layer up to 15 cm, in two up to 20 cm.
When the partition requires special strength, in the case of hanging shelves or cabinets on it, you should purchase reinforced profiles instead of racks, or strengthen regular profiles with embedded wooden blocks.
When creating an opening in a frame, we recommend using timber embeds that need to be inserted into the cavities of the frame profiles. The beams should be dried, slightly less in thickness than the profiles. So, for example, in metal racks 10 cm, a 9.5 cm beam is inserted.
Surface Mounts:
- dowels for installation on concrete and brickwork - from 3.7 cm;
- wood screws - 3-5 cm;
- fasteners for the frame - metal screws with a 13 mm press washer;
- fasteners for gypsum boards - screws with a countersunk head - 2.5-2.7 cm;
Sound and thermal insulation materials(if desired) are placed inside the partition. Dense mats provide good sound insulation mineral wool, while polystyrene foam is clearly not suitable for this.
And also prepare your tools:
- screwdriver or drill with carrying case;
- spirit level, level;
- pencil for marking;
- metal scissors/wood hacksaw;
- plumb line;
- roulette;
- construction knife.
Once everything is ready, you can begin building the structure. This work consists of two main stages:
- Installation of the frame.
- Installation of drywall.
- Installation of guides.
Before installation metal frame construction, using a pencil level, make appropriate marking lines on the floor, ceiling and walls. IN in this case, it is most convenient to use a level. Also mark the placement of vertical profiles in 600 mm increments.
Pin on outside guide profiles and sealing tapes.
Then screw them with the grooves up along the perimeter using self-tapping screws and/or dowels (depending on the surface material). The fastening step is 40-50 cm. If the walls or ceiling have significant differences or surface curvature, level them using pads or wedges.
Formation of the frame of the doorway
When installing the frame, you must first provide an opening for the interior door.
Form the frame for the door in the following sequence:
- Cut the rack profiles to the required length, and place a block into the profile cavity for reinforcement.
- Insert the resulting elements into the grooves of the guide profiles on the ceiling and floor at the required distance to install the door frame.
- Install horizontally, on required height, profile lintel over the future door frame.
- After checking the level, secure all elements with 13-16 mm self-tapping screws with a press washer.
- Installation of rack profiles.
Insert racks into the grooves of the ceiling and floor starting strips every 60 or 40 cm (the smaller the gaps, the stronger the structure). You can set it at 120 cm, but such a partition will be extremely fragile, decorative, and is unlikely to be suitable as an interior partition with a doorway.
Before screwing the rack profiles to the guides, attach a plumb thread to the opposite walls to adjust the level and, making sure that the structure does not have bends/distortions, secure the racks.
To create stiffening ribs, in places where the horizontal joining of plasterboard sheets will take place, install jumpers from the profile. To do this, cut off pieces of the profile with metal scissors and secure them to the posts. This is usually done before installing gypsum boards, but it is easiest to install them after covering one side of the partition.
Covering the partition frame
Before installing the first sheet, it is necessary to note the accuracy of its fit to the wall and, if necessary, cut it to the shape of the wall (if it has a level difference). Difficulties should not arise with the covering of partitions of complex shapes, especially with inclined planes or shaped elements.
If the ceiling height is greater than the length of the plasterboard, the sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern. The easiest way is to secure all the whole sheets first, in the first row from the floor, in the second from the ceiling, and so on, alternating. After this, pieces are cut to completely fill the surface of the partition.
The gypsum board fastening step at the edges is 20-25 cm, in the middle you can make gaps of 30, but it’s more convenient to use the same 20-25 cm, since most manufacturers put marking line on sheets taking into account this distance, which is very convenient for beginners. The screw heads should not be deeply recessed into the sheet or left sticking out on the surface. It is better to make it flush with the heads slightly immersed. It is not recommended to twist screws into the edges/edges; make an indent of 2 cm.
When installing one side in the frame cavity, heat/sound insulating materials can be fixed.
ATTENTION! You should not trim gypsum boards with an angle grinder, as beginners often do, the room will be covered with white dust, and the edges will look torn and sloppy. It is enough to cut the cardboard on both sides along the dividing line, slightly pressing a construction knife into the plaster, and then break the sheet, resting along the cut line on the flat edge of the table or placing a thick board under it. advice from professionals regarding working with drywall will also help
Basic rules for installing gypsum boards:
- Leave deformation gaps with adjacent surfaces - 1 cm with the floor, 0.5 cm with the ceiling
- Remove chamfers on all drywall seams before installation, if there are none, for subsequent reinforcement and putty.
- If the paneling on one side runs from right to left, panel the other side from left to right to move the seams along the rows.
- Don't forget to mark the wiring locations if you have hidden wiring. Cut holes for sockets using crowns. The wires must be placed in a corrugated PVC tube.
That's all. The partition remains to be puttied and covered with any suitable finishing material.
Our topic today is interior wall from plasterboard. We will figure out how to build a frame for a plasterboard partition, how to sheathe it, how to install window and door blocks into the frame, how to make an arch vault and how to ensure maximum sound insulation of the wall. Let's get started.
Lesson 1: Frame
How to install an interior plasterboard wall that is strong enough and provides acceptable sound insulation? Obviously, you need to start with installing the frame (see Installing a frame under drywall on a wall with your own hands). For its construction, the author strongly advises using not a block, but a galvanized profile for installing gypsum boards.
There are several reasons:
- Profiles have ideal geometry, but bars often cannot boast of it;
- Wood warps when humidity fluctuates. Galvanized steel carries them without deformation;
- The tree suffers from rot and insect activity, unlike its competitor. Antiseptic impregnation partly solves the problem, but only partly – with stable high humidity(typical, for example, for the operating conditions of a wall bordering a bathroom), the wood can still rot.
To build the frame we will need two types of profiles:
| Image | Description |
| Rack profile CW with a width of 50 mm and a thickness of 50-100 mm. The thickness is selected depending on the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and whether it is necessary to lay any large-section communications in its frame (sewerage, air ducts of the ventilation system, etc.). The length of the profile must be equal to or exceed the height of the ceiling, and the number of racks is selected for a step between them of 60 centimeters. |
| The UW guide profile is responsible for attaching the frame to adjacent structures. Its thickness corresponds to the thickness of the racks, with a fixed height of the side walls of 40 mm. The total length of all guide profiles must be at least equal to the perimeter of the future wall. |
In addition to profiles, purchases will include:
- Damper tape with a width corresponding to the width of the guides. Its task is to reduce the number of acoustic vibrations transmitted to capital structures from the partition frame;
Tip: instead of damper tape, you can use rolled polyethylene foam cut into strips, which is used as insulation and a backing for laminate and parquet.
- Metal screws for connecting guides to racks. Length - 9 mm;
- Dowel screws for mounting guides.
Attention! In a wooden house, the guides are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws no less than 40 mm long.
Installation of the frame is carried out in the following order:
- We mark the line of the partition on the floor, then, using a plumb line and a long ruler or profile, we transfer the markings to the ceiling and walls;
- We fasten the guides along the markings, placing a damper tape under the profile. The fastener pitch is no more than half a meter. To cut the profile, use only metal scissors: abrasive cutting with a grinder is contraindicated for thin galvanized metal, since its heating leads to zinc burnout and the appearance of rust in the future;
- We mark the positions of the racks. The pitch is exactly 60 cm along the axes of the rack profiles. In this case, the seams between adjacent sheets of sheathing will be in the middle of the racks;
Let us remind you: the standard width of a sheet of wall plasterboard is 120 cm.
- We cut to height and arrange the racks. We attach each of them to the guides with metal screws on both sides. The frame is ready.
Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, dividing frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, and installing the door.
Anatomy of a plasterboard structure
Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point of the doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.
The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets
Application area
Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special fire safety requirements.
Advantages
Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:
- Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material, specially treated to improve its fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly smooth surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
- Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” in construction work, can create them home handyman. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
- Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
- Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, piles of construction waste and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is consumed.
Flaws
We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:
- The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
- Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
- It is impossible to attach massive shelves or wall cabinets to the partition surface. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.
Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.
Preparing for work
That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to the solution practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also carry out approximate calculation their quantities.
Tool
To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:
- Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
- Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
- A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
- Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
- Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.
To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool
Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Working with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.
Materials
When installing the partition yourself, the following materials will be used:
- There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the sheathing.
- Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
- Insulation - fills inner part structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.
1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall
When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:
- Profile. Standard installation interior frame structures imply the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
- Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
- Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area it will be useful basalt wool, excellent heat retention.
In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:
- Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
- Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
- Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
- Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
- Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.
The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners
Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.
Measurements + consumables calculation table
To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.
- Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location of the door and installing jumpers between the posts.
The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.
- Rack profile (CW). Taking into account the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be installed in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the slabs are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.
Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
- Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.
- Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile; the same design solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.
- Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.
- Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm
Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.
Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:
- guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
- guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
- rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
- plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) – 10 sheets.
The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. Maximum distance the distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.
Engineers German company KNAUF is a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.
| Position | Name | Unit measurements | Quantity per sq. m |
| 1 | KNAUF sheet (GKL, GKLV, GKLO) | sq. m | 2,0 |
| 2 | KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40) | linear m | 0,7 |
| 3 | KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50) | linear m | 2,0 |
| 4 | Screw TN 25 | PC. | 29 |
| 5 | Putty KNAUF-Fugen | kg | 0,6 |
| 6 | Reinforcing tape | linear m | 1,5 |
| 7 | Dowel K 6/35 | PC. | 1,6 |
| 8 | Sealing tape | linear m | 1,2 |
| 9 | Primer KNAUF-Tiefengrund | l | 0,2 |
| 10 | Mineral wool thermal insulation KNAUF | sq. m | 1,0 |
| 11 | KNAUF-profile PU | PC. | * |
* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of the structure.
Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.
How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions
So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.
Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.
Layout and marking
Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:
Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.
Installation of sheathing
Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:
- Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
- We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners
- We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening the metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level
- We will form a doorway by installing reinforced profile posts in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
- Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper
- We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws
- Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these sections inward and get a profile strip of the required size with blind ends.
A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, further strengthening the structure
- We will install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in the right place (taking into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal level with a building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
- If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.
Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m
- Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.
At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed; you can move on to the next, no less important stage of creating the partition.
Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation
In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.
Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat and also insulate the room from extraneous noise
Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats required thickness- material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.
Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:
- Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
- We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall
- Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile
- Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts.
Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts
- We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
- We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.
Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to fasten the extension or parts of non-standard size, you will have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.
Final chords
Having finished covering the partition frame, we will insert the door block into it and resolve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.
The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:
Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed introduction to the process of installing a frame structure covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.
Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door
Many years of professional experience show that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for installing additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.
