How to install a partition in a plasterboard room. DIY plasterboard partition: doors in the partition. Rules for installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photos, videos

Plasterboard structures - fashionable and a widely used option for decorating a house or apartment. There are a lot of photographs of interiors created from this material on the Internet, looking at which many immediately have a desire to do something similar at home.

At the same time, hiring specialists is expensive and not always convenient. A completely logical question arises - how to make something else out of drywall with your own hands, at a time convenient for yourself?

This idea is quite feasible, the main thing is to master the techniques metal parts, installation of drywall and finishing of finished structures. There is nothing particularly complicated in these actions, you just need to have an idea of what and how to do. The question is of interest to many, so we should consider it in more detail.

Using drywall: pros and cons

Drywall is a universal material. Its properties provide much more possibilities than it seems at first glance. Advantages

Possibility to replace expensive furniture.
Thermal insulation. A layer of drywall effectively retains heat; if necessary, it can be reinforced with a layer of mineral wool or other insulation.
Light weight. It does not load the walls or create excessive pressure on the floors, although some structures look heavy and massive.
Fire safety. Only the cardboard layer can burn, which will not ignite on its own and will not cause a fire.
Rovnaya smooth surface. Perfectly corrects or masks defects in walls and surfaces.
Flexibility. Oddly enough, drywall can be bent, giving structures smooth shapes. Of course, to do this you need to know how to do it, you will need certain skills, but they are quite simple.
Water resistance. There are specially manufactured grades of drywall that are resistant to moisture.
Environmental friendliness and safety of the material.
Low price.

Such properties characterize the material from the most positive side, but there are also flaws:

Fragility. The sheet can be broken, it cracks under deforming loads. The problem can be solved, but this circumstance must be taken into account during design.
Poor sound insulation. The seemingly massive structure is hollow, it resonates, all sounds penetrate through it quite easily, which sometimes creates certain inconveniences. To solve the problem, insulators are used - mineral wool or similar materials.
Weak load-bearing capacity. If you need to hang wall cabinets or a TV on a plasterboard wall, you need to worry about reinforcement in advance using a double layer of material or in the right place install a supporting metal structure on the reverse side.

The shortcomings of drywall can be compensated for, the main thing is to know about them and take this into account during design work.

Application options

Simplicity, ease of processing, quick installation (or dismantling), invariability of shape and size (unlike fiberboard or MDF, which change dimensions during operation), reliability and strength of supporting structures were the reason for wide use plasterboard in construction or finishing works Oh.

Plasterboard structures can be divided into several types that have similar purposes:

False wall, box. It is used to hide various communications from the observer - pipelines, electrical wiring, to correct unevenness or defects in walls.
Partition for zoning space. Designed to separate a certain part of the room, for example, to separate the kitchen and living room.
Interior wall. A full-fledged wall separating two (or more) rooms, having sufficient strength and thickness.
Division of workspace in the office. The construction of office partitions sometimes helps to solve the problem of the lack of separate premises to accommodate employees’ workplaces, create work areas, offices, etc.

All these options can be quite complex in terms of design and include a lot of elements, details or parts. Partitions can be made solid or translucent, with full or partial cutoff of space, creating a conditional zone boundary.

Important! It is the possibility of creating complex shapes, attractive from an aesthetic point of view, as well as having high functional qualities, is the most valuable property drywall as a building material.

The popularity of the material has led to widespread use, many samples of products or designs have been created, among which there are very attractive samples. There are many photographs on the Internet that provide food for imagination in independent design development.

Which material is better to choose?

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) have several varieties. First of all, you should consider the general classification:

GKL. A common material for finishing rooms with normal conditions. The leaf is gray and has blue markings.
GKLO. Fireproof type of material. It has high resistance to open fire and is used in areas with a high fire hazard. Gray (some manufacturers have pink) sheet with red markings.
GKLV. Moisture-resistant material, contains antifungal additives and silicone granules. Green leaf with blue markings.
GKLVO. Moisture- and fire-resistant plasterboard is resistant to both fire and moisture. It is used for finishing high-risk premises according to these parameters. Green leaf with red markings.

In addition, the sheets are divided according to the type of edge:

PC. Straight edge, cut at 90 degrees, covered with cardboard.
UK. The thinned edge has a slight bevel from one side of the sheet to the edge. The bevel is needed to compensate for the thickness of the reinforcing tape glued before the putty.
ZK. Rounded edge.
PLC. Rounded edge on the front side of the sheet.
PLUCK. A rounded edge on one side combined with a tapered edge.

Standard thickness of gypsum plasterboard - 6.9 and 12.5 mm.

The thinner the sheet, the more convenient it is for them to finish curved surfaces, but the load-bearing capacity of such a sheet is much lower.

Sheet sizes are 2500 or 3000 mm with a width of 1200 mm. There are sheets of smaller sizes, which are easier to work with, but they are more expensive.

Instructions for the construction of walls and partitions

Before you begin work on creating a structure, you should make a lot of preparatory steps. The most important of them is the creation of the project, the design decision, and also - careful study everyone necessary operations and actions.

Attention! Before starting all work, you must familiarize yourself with the methods of connecting metal frame parts. This will help to avoid errors when calculating the frame, as well as the entire project as a whole.

The creation of a plasterboard structure can be divided into: two types:

An independent structure, the rigidity of which does not require support.
Design, load-bearing basis for which the wall serves.

The creation of such products has some differences. Let's look at them with examples.

Interior wall

First of all you should draw up a project- sketch, drawing of the future product. It should include all the calculated information - consumption of materials per 1 m2 (both gypsum boards and metal parts, self-tapping screws), the presence and shape of openings, doors, the presence of communications - electrical wiring, lamps, sockets.

One of the most important points is choice of gypsum board thickness. Since you plan to build a wall, you should use the thickest sheet - 12.5 mm. This thickness will help strengthen the wall and avoid accidental destruction of the gypsum board. The minimum thickness is 9 mm, but in this case you should strengthen the frame and install more frequent racks with crossbars.

Calculating the required amount of gypsum boards is quite simple. You need to calculate the area of the wall, subtract the area of the opening from it and multiply the resulting value by 2. The result will be the area of the plasterboard required to build the walls.

At the same time, you need to have a small reserve just in case, since no one is immune from mistakes.

Calculating the number of metal parts is somewhat more complicated. Based on the design drawing, you should calculate the required number of vertical posts, guides and crossbars. It must be remembered that the location of the racks must correspond to the width of the gypsum board sheet.

If such a calculation is difficult, you can contact online calculators, of which there are quite a lot on the network and get the required values. To check the result, it is recommended to duplicate the calculation on another resource (or several), this will help clarify and correct the values.

After this, you can begin assembly work. We begin assembling the wall frame. Markings are made on the floor and the lower guide is installed. You can start work from above, from the ceiling, but from below is more convenient. According to the assembly drawing, the frame is assembled - racks, upper guide, etc.

The assembled one is rigidly fixed to the floor. Using a building level, carefully install the vertical along all the racks and mark the locations of the screws, the pitch of which is minimum 30-40 cm.

Then the frame is moved slightly to the side and holes for dowels are made in the designated places using a puncher. The frame is then put back into place and firmly secured.

Alternatively, you can first set a perimeter in the form of ceiling and floor guides connected by racks mounted on the walls. The accuracy of the plane in this case is determined precisely by the wall studs. After installing the perimeter, all other vertical and transverse elements are installed.

To create a doorway in the lower guides, a gap equal to the width of the opening is required. The side racks are installed with shelves facing the opening. If there is a door block, they must be enhance wooden blocks , or, alternatively, install double racks next to each other.

If an arch is planned in the hall, then the bending configuration is made from the same profile in advance. Usually, wedges are cut out in a profile with a certain step along the side part, which makes it possible to bend it and give the desired bend according to the template. Then the profile is mounted on the frame.

All frame elements adjacent to the opening are installed shelf towards the opening, otherwise it will be impossible to attach the end parts from gypsum plasterboard.

After this, the installation of the gypsum board begins. Pieces of the required size are cut and attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. The installation of gypsum boards is done on one side, then the electrical wiring is laid, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is installed for sound insulation, and the gypsum boards are installed on the reverse side.

Produced finishing of the structure- putty, painting, etc. Doors (if any), lamps or sockets are installed. The partition is ready!

Attention! When creating a wide (reinforced) partition, the procedure is similar to that indicated, but the frame consists of two profile layers, forming a wall of the required thickness.

How to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands - step-by-step instructions:

Phased construction of a false wall

False walls are used to disguise various communications- water pipes or gas pipes, electrical cables, etc. To build a false wall (box), you will first need to create design drawings. Based on the drawings, the quantity of materials is calculated and markings are made on the load-bearing wall.

According to the applied markings, a metal profile is installed on the wall, serving as a support for the frame of the box. If the masked communications are thick, then a three-dimensional frame structure is created, allowing you to hide all elements of communications.

Inner part of the box insulated with the selected material (if necessary), laid electric wires for lamps according to plan.

Pieces of gypsum board are cut and installed. How more complex design false walls, the more gypsum board waste there will be. This is unproductive, but inevitable, especially if you have many elements with round or curved parts.

The installed gypsum board is puttied, processed according to technological standards and covered with finishing.

Features of installing a false wall in a video:

How to assemble a corner wall from plasterboard?

Often, a corner wall is built to separate part of the room into a separate compartment. Unlike the usual angle connecting two adjacent gypsum board planes, the corner wall becomes load-bearing structure, from which connection rigidity is required.

The corner wall has two points of support on the main walls and a corner connection that is attached only to the floor and ceiling. The corner in such structures is a critical element that must be made according to certain rules.

First of all, the corner is formed by two racks (don't try to make do with one!), rigidly connected to each other along the side surface and shelf.

The connected racks are a double rack with a cross-section in the form of a rectangular bar. Connecting a corner with the formation of a void at the junction of the planes is unacceptable, since cracks will certainly appear on it.

For external corners, a double layer of gypsum board is used, which ensures the strength and rigidity of the formed corner. Such a measure is in no way a reinsurance, and the existing doorway creates additional load on one of the areas.

Therefore, strengthening the wall is necessary external corners must be reinforced with metal perforated corners (curvilinear external corners are reinforced with plastic corners) and covered with a layer of special putty. For external corner walls it is best to use thick gypsum board - 12.5 mm, forming a solid plane in total.

Partition design options for zoning

There are a great variety of design options for partitions inside the room. The possibilities of the material provide a wide field of activity for creativity. Simple and complex designs are offered that combine furniture functions with wall elements.

The choice of option to use in your own project can be based on ideas gleaned from the Internet. At the same time, it is necessary realistically assess your capabilities, take into account the degree of complexity of the structure that is planned to be created.

Important! Creating structures from plasterboard can completely change the entire appearance of the room, causing the need for complete repairs and replacement of furniture.

The most effective solutions are those that completely unite the room into a single ensemble when plasterboard structures do not look like separate parts, but are completely integrated into the interior.

For example, decorating a bedroom in the same style and color scheme with gypsum plasterboard structures will create a unique room that has an original and sophisticated look. Very important element decor - spotlights that illuminate the structure from different points.

The creation and use of gypsum plasterboard structures can pursue both purely decorative and practical purposes - for example, serve as shelves for books, stands for flowers, TV, audio equipment.

Using false walls helps reduce the amount of furniture in the room, freeing up space and giving additional volume.

Zoning of a room can be done either in the form of conventionally designated boundaries or in the form of dense partitions with openings that completely cut off part of the room.

Both solutions have a right to exist, but it should be remembered that a complete partition can significantly reduce the illumination of one of the parts of the room and disrupt natural ventilation.

From these positions, sometimes more a good decision it becomes the creation of a transparent partition that looks like a bookcase, permeable to rays of light and air flows. Such a partition is quite divides the room well into zones, but does not provide privacy.

The choice of one type or another is a matter for the owner of the premises, who is guided by his own tastes and preferences.

How to repair a hole in a plasterboard wall?

The formation of unwanted holes in the material is an unpleasant feature of drywall. There are two ways to seal such a hole:

Applying a patch.
Sealing with a piece of plasterboard, repeating the shape of the hole and installed flush with common plane walls.

If there are no questions for the first option, cut out a few pieces of gypsum board bigger size than the hole to be filled, is glued (or installed with screws) and finished in the same style as the rest of the wall. The option is simple, but the patch remains a reminder of the hole.

In order to install the patch flush with the main plane, you need to insert a strip of material into the hole (for example, wooden slats), somewhat narrower, but longer than the hole.

To hold the strip, you can attach a cord to the central part of the strip, which must later be removed. The longer ends of the strip are attracted to the main layer of gypsum board with screws, resulting in a support for the patch, which is inserted into the hole with glue.

After curing, excess glue is removed and the surface is finally sanded sandpaper or a special grater, then the entire area is finished to match the surroundings.

How to dismantle plasterboard walls?

One of important features structures made of gypsum plasterboard - the possibility of quick and not too dusty dismantling. This procedure can be done in two ways:

With preservation of material.
No saving.

Dismantling without saving has the sole purpose of destroy the existing structure. It is produced quite simply - the gypsum board is broken and removed, metal elements are dismantled and all materials are removed from the premises.

All foreign objects in the room must be protected from dust with plastic wrap.
First of all, you need to remove the doors, lamps and other decorative elements.
Remove tape or corners from the seams and corners of the sheets.
Clean the putty from the screw locations.
Remove the sheets and disassemble the metal frame.

Attention! When disassembling, be aware of the electrical wiring inside the structure. If possible, it should be unplugged.

Careful disassembly of the structure may not damage the materials at all, providing the opportunity for reuse.

Is installing an interior partition a redevelopment?

It is believed that any change in the apartment plan, regardless of the material or composition of the changes made, is a redevelopment and must be legalized, agree with the competent authorities.

However, if an ordinary box is made to cover communications, then such a change can hardly be called a redevelopment.

According to Article 25 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, redevelopment is a change in the configuration of housing that requires inclusion in the passport.

Since all the permitting documents necessary to complete the redevelopment take a long time and painfully, with the provision of a project, obtaining permits and other adventures, in practice they usually do it simply - they do all the work, and then de facto bring the documentation into compliance (or not at all) .

Most homeowners who have gone through the procedure for legalizing work claim that it would be much easier to pay fine for unauthorized redevelopment(2000-2500 rub.) and formalize what you already have, rather than collecting mountains of papers, sometimes for an unclear purpose.

Any consultation with employees of the BTI or other responsible organizations will have the same result, obliging you to perform a lot of lengthy and not very clear actions. They can be understood, this is their responsibility. But the decision, as always, is made by the homeowner.

Making your own partitions or boxes from gypsum plasterboard is a simple task that requires a minimum number of tools, but brings good results, and sometimes - just great results.

The main thing is to take the time to clarify all unclear points for yourself. Then the resulting result will delight all residents of the house or apartment, and will also surprise guests.

Using drywall for re-planning movements is an excellent choice in favor of quality and easy installation. And gypsum board sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of plasterboard partitions is easy to do yourself if you choose quality materials and tools to make the process easier.

Before planning and destroying old floors, you must obtain permission from the building management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment layout may affect the safety of the entire house. If the redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

The main material for installing plasterboard partitions is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is being erected for purely decorative purposes, there will be no door, and there are no shelves or other heavy parts on the sides, then the thickness of the product can be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is not selected “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders highlight a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. This material is used in rooms with normal humidity levels. If the partition is being made in a bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture-resistant drywall (it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

The next most important material is the profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used as they are not reliable enough. Most often, reinforced guides and rack profiles made of metal are used. They come in different types and thicknesses - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

dowels;
self-tapping screws with a press washer;
screws for metal;
sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
acrylic primer;
putty;
serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools required to construct the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for work

When installing a gypsum plasterboard partition, construction tools are used.

It’s better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for installing a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes or additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing metal profiles.

How to install a plasterboard partition

Before installing a plasterboard partition, you need to make sure you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Installing a partition with your own hands takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is applying markings. Never skip it, especially if you are installing such a structure for the first time.

Marking

Start installation plasterboard partitions necessary with marking. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a construction angle.

The line must be perfectly straight, because subsequently the profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with extreme precision, otherwise the structure will turn out crooked, which will lead to premature wear and impossibility of installing the door.

Frame installation

After the markings have been applied and the alignment is ensured, guide profiles are installed. First, place the part on the floor and secure it with dowels, bypassing the space for the door.

Advice! Holes for fastenings are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markings, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers dowel plugs into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. Then they make a final check of the markings, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, attach the rack profile along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal according to the level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal guide. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, proceed to installing the ceiling rail.

Advice! Screws must be screwed in at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Attaching to the ceiling is done using the same method as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, checking the floor markings with the ceiling. Measure the height of the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut out with scissors.

The vertical profile should be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden beam. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed at the end.

If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are attached approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings and calculate how many vertical posts are required. They are mounted 300-600 mm from each other. Cut from a metal profile required amount racks, then install their ends inside the guides. The process is controlled at the construction level. The profiles must be fastened with self-tapping screws with larger heads.

Electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, electrical wiring is done inside. This can be done after the installation of plasterboard partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. You need to make holes in the profiles through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

The big stage is covering the frame with gypsum plasterboard sheets to size. It is necessary to screw drywall with visible self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fastening gypsum boards). The fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheet sizes are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of plasterboard partitions. To make a chamfer, you can use a plane with a beveled knife.

Advice! If the partition will use elements to turn on electricity, then crowns required diameter holes are cut in the sheets. Wires are routed through them after complete installation of the structure.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Space cannot be left empty, otherwise it will lead to an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Door frame installation

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

The door jamb with hinges is installed level, using larger self-tapping screws.
The heads of the screws are deepened into wooden racks boxes.
The door is hung (it is advisable to choose the lightest possible material).

If problems arise due to insufficiently level installation of the profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled polyurethane foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Sealing seams

The final stage of installation of gypsum plasterboard partitions is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with glue applied, then installation will be faster:

After all the procedures, they move on to the stage of finishing the finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is necessary to decorative materials lay flat and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy appearance will negate all the efforts of the builder.

Finishing is completed with a final layer of putty, after which it is treated with fine-grain sandpaper.

After clearing the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait until it dries completely. Now you can paste wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a plasterboard partition with your own hands is not only a simple, but also a fascinating process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip steps.

Produced in residential, public or industrial buildings according to the technologies developed by the manufacturers of these structures. Being a prefabricated structure, a plasterboard partition is mounted according to certain rules to ensure thermal, noise and humidity conditions in the room.

Carrying out general rules By installing plasterboard partitions, you ensure the quality and durability of the structure, and also prepare the quality of further finishing of the partition. Let's formulate rules for installing partitions based on technical specifications and SNiP on this topic. They will undoubtedly be useful for those who are renovating or building their own home.

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General rules for installing plasterboard partitions

Partitions should be installed in the warm season or in a heated room;
All rough finishing work, namely, plastering walls and ceilings, installing floor screed must be completed;
If electrical wiring and plumbing are not planned in the partition, then these works must be completed;
If electrical wiring and plumbing are planned in the partition, then communications must be laid to the installation site of the partition;
When laying communications in the partition, you need to ensure their safety and not damage them on the sharp edges of the profiles or with screws when attaching sheets. That is, the electrical wiring must be laid in an electrical corrugation or pipe, and the water supply must be protected with bushings;
Frame in doorways reinforced with a wooden beam to securely hang the doors;

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Partition frame

The guide profiles of the metal frame of the partition are attached to the floor, walls, and ceiling through a sealing tape, such as Dichtungsband. It increases the sound insulation of the partition and acts as a layer against deformation. In other words, if you put a layer, the joints between the sheets will not crack after puttying and painting;
The partition rack profiles are installed every 60 cm (between the centers of the profiles). For short partitions, the distance between the posts can be reduced to 40/30 cm;

The height of the rack profile should be 10 mm less than the actual distance between the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. That is, the rack profile should fit freely between the guides, it does not need to be hammered in;
It is advisable to use a special tool for drywall – a cutter – to connect the profiles. An alternative to a cutter, connection with LN 19 mm screws;
Mineral wool is used to soundproof the partition;

Drywall sheets and their fastening

Sheets of plasterboard, which will cover the frame of the partition, must be brought into the room for acclimatization;
Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame at the joint. The joint should fall in the middle of the profile, with the exception of the outer profiles;
The second layer of drywall is shifted in multiples of the distance between the studs (“spreading” of the sheets). The spread cannot be less than 400 mm;
When using plasterboard sheets with a straight edge rather than a folded edge, you need to remove the folds from the edge of the sheet, 20x2 mm. They are needed for better puttying of joints;
Drywall sheets are attached to the frame with TN screws. The screw is recessed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. This is necessary for better puttying;
The screw should fit straight into the frame, clinging to it by 10 mm;
For single-layer sheathing, TN 25-30 mm screws are used. Mounting pitch 250 mm;
With a two-layer sheathing, the first layer is fastened with 30 mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm. The second layer is fastened with TN45 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm;
In three-layer partitions, the first layer is fastened with 30mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm, the second layer with a pitch of 500 mm, with TN45 mm screws, the third layer with TN55 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm.

Partition finishing

Before puttying, the edges and joints of the sheets are primed;
Before puttingtying the general surface, the joints are glued with sickle and putty. If necessary, the joints are puttyed twice. When covering a partition with multi-layers, there is no need to glue the internal joints;
The surface of the partition is puttied two, three or four times. Last layer finishing putty.

Partitions in wet rooms

In wet areas Moisture-resistant plasterboard is used for partitions;
The partition-ceiling, partition-wall, partition-floor connections are taped and covered with sealing mastic.

This is all rules for installing plasterboard partitions which I wanted to present in this article.

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche from plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only the technical aspects of installation, but also the features of the material itself.

Peculiarities

A sheet of plasterboard is a lightweight and flexible material with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material you can either build a wall or build an ornate interior structure.

Structure plasterboard sheet(GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached using glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

allow you to create perfectly smooth surfaces vertically and horizontally;
allow the construction of curved structures, as well as individual elements of the various shapes and complexity;
have good breathability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor microclimate;
differ in sound insulation;
characterized by high thermal insulation;
made from environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in case of fire;

are light in weight;
easy to install, do not require professional skills or special equipment for cladding;
the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
a coating made from this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work; for example, a partition made of plasterboard can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar structure made of brick will require two or more days.

Like any building material, plasterboard has some disadvantages that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

And attaching anything to such a covering is quite problematic - only dowels and screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf on it. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy; this will cause the wall to collapse at any moment.

Types of structures

Using plasterboard, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

walls that divide the room;
partitions of any shape;
complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made from gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made from other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Partitions made from plasterboard fiber are produced in a short time, their cost is much lower than options made from brick or wood. The false wall remains hollow inside, which makes it possible to lay the necessary utilities and provide additional insulation.

The material is light in weight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience using the usual tools found in every home.

There are a great many options for gypsum plasterboard partitions. The following are distinguished:

by profile type: regular and arched;
By functional purpose: temporary or capital;
by design type: solid or with an opening for a door or window;
by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls made of gypsum plasterboard differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are installed in order to hide flaws in the room and cover heating radiators. They do not require serious fasteners, and are often complemented with stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models that have a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify the overall appearance of the room, help divide it into different zones and add additional functionality to the finishing elements. Such walls and partitions are installed frame method and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
cladding made from gypsum plasterboard sheets is used for walls or partitions;
The wall filling is glass wool or mineral wool, which contributes to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the technical characteristics There are several types of drywall:

Wall gypsum board It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives and is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
Ceiling gypsum board has a thickness of 9.5 mm, width is 1.2 m, length - 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification is widely used in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in ceiling cladding. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

GKLV– This is a moisture-resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of wall option, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length can be 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity(in bathrooms and shower rooms).
GKLO- This is a sheet of plasterboard with fire-resistant parameters. It has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber includes active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all of which are reinforced with special fire-retardant impregnations. The material is widely used in areas where high demands are placed. fire safety, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering of all types of gypsum boards is fire resistant. This material does not burn, and at most only chars. But the core resists flame only in GKLO.

GKLVO is a moisture- and fire-resistant material that combines all the advantages of gypsum boards and gypsum boards.
Arched gypsum board used to create exquisite wave-like designs and rounded interior elements. Its width complies with the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, results in increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a fairly high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes finishing work more expensive.

Design

Drywall has found application in covering surfaces and creating decorative elements indoors.

Ceiling

Today, plasterboard is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and constructing multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is necessary for design in the following situations:

when the ceiling is uneven;
if necessary, hide utility lines laid on top - pipes, massive ventilation ducts, unsightly cables and others;
for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Ceiling finishing using gypsum plasterboard can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any interior work for interior decoration are associated with the installation of drywall. It is used to create a perfectly smooth coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements of the design structure. In addition to its decorative function, gypsum boards also have a practical purpose - creates enhanced sound absorption and room insulation. Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall using glue or on a pre-assembled frame; as a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater structural strength, gypsum boards are laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard lining is carried out in any room; it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze in the winter.

A plasterboard wall with thermal insulation helps to insulate the room, preventing the accumulation of dangerous condensation and the appearance of fungus. Finishing The plasterboard wall can be anything.

Floor

Drywall can also be used to finish the floor using the dry method. Of course, for this purpose, exclusively especially durable sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to mechanical damage are used. This coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard finishing coat– parquet, linoleum, carpet, tiles or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - it is high speed works and their efficiency.

In design, gypsum boards are often used to construct multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

When creating partitions, plasterboard is the number 1 material. It is most often used to divide a room and create stylish and functional zoning of space. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers look very impressive in the interior. plasterboard structures, and in houses with small children they are simply irreplaceable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hanging elements. Niches are used to place small decorative elements in them that make the room cozy. These could be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, they are equipped with lighting, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches Special attention You should pay attention to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only support lightweight objects.

Frame

Most often, work on covering the surface with plasterboard is carried out using a frame method; for this purpose, wooden or metal sheathing is installed. It is very important to apply correct markings, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall largely depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor where the mounting of the supporting panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the marking is its width. Markings for rack-mount metal profiles are applied perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall. The markings are presented in the form of vertical lines with a pitch of 50–60 cm; in the future, when attaching drywall to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that one wall is finished first, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the installation of gypsum boards, and only then does the transition to the next surface take place.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

the marks on the floor and walls need to be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
the installation of hangers is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
rack-mounts are fixed into the guides metal profiles so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
The building level controls the verticality of the base and shelves, after which you need to make the final fixation with self-tapping screws.

Application area

Drywall is used for various options performances such as:

ceiling finishing;
installation of partitions;
giving the walls perfect evenness;
construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, plinths;
masking unaesthetic and damaged surfaces;
repair of old coatings;
giving surfaces relief;
creating multi-level structures;
insulation, soundproofing of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance is usually used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widespread when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when telephone and Internet cables, plumbing systems and heating pipes, as well as ventilation devices are required inside. Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. For this purpose the usual construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades. The sequence of actions is described by instructions according to which the following actions must be performed:

the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
markings are applied with a pencil;
using a knife, cut cardboard with outside;

The gypsum board is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is carefully broken along the cut line;
the plasterboard panel is returned to its original position, placed on its edge and bent;
the cardboard from the inside is also cut through, but the blade should not pass through;
the sheet turns over inner side, is again placed on the support and finally breaks.

After the sheet has been prepared, you should begin directly assembling the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

Guides are attached along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor; self-tapping screws are used for this;
a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
Planks are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
The stiffening ribs are fixed to self-tapping screws;

then communications, wires and cables are carried into the cavity, and they are also filled with mineral wool;
a sheet of drywall is attached directly to the frame;

the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then sanded;
A primer is applied over the panels and the finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to the following points when installing gypsum boards:

the sheet is attached to metal profiles using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws;
First of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then the central part. Self-tapping screws are placed in increments of 10–25 cm;
the self-tapping screw is screwed in so that the caps slightly “sink” into the drywall; under no circumstances should they stick out above the surface;
If possible, before starting cladding, you should watch a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely represented in construction stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, so if it is stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly damaged. To avoid problems and purchase the highest quality product, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
evaluate the conditions in which the plasterboard was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

Personally inspect each purchased sheet of plasterboard; there should be no chips or deformations on it. No crooked bends, dents or scratches are allowed on a product of proper quality. Any violation of integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
You need to carefully monitor loading and unloading operations. Even if the sheet of drywall was purchased from perfect condition, this does not at all guarantee that it will arrive in the same form. If the product was purchased and paid for, but defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not apply to it;
If possible, you should not purchase the entire batch with the required quantity at once. To start, you should buy one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips; a high-quality sheet should have a strictly uniform core, a cut without inclusions, and the knife should move evenly and smoothly when cutting;
If you decide to buy a product from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that the stingy always pays twice. Handicraft products can not only crumble and break, but also be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from counterfeits and defects, you should give preference to products from well-known brands.

About 70% of the Russian construction market is occupied by products of the German concern Knauf. This giant has production facilities all over the world. There are about 10 factories producing construction materials in Russia alone. The Knauf company is associated by many with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market is accounted for by other European brands – Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global plasterboard market. In terms of production volumes in 2002, it took first place, leaving all its main competitors far behind. A distinctive feature of this brand of gypsum boards is its high environmental safety, confirmed by the “Leaf of Life” and “Ecomaterial” certificates. In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than products from other manufacturers. However, its price is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge is a Polish manufacturer that has established production of drywall throughout the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of the number of production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge plasterboard has a fairly affordable price. It was this company that, at the beginning of this century, made a real revolution in the production of drywall, bringing to the market semicircular sheets, all edges of which were covered with cardboard. This processing of panels has become a kind of calling card of the company.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. From the leading Russian manufacturers the following can be distinguished:

"Gypsum" (Volgograd)– produces drywall under the famous Volma brand. The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and reasonable price.
Gifas (Sverdlovsk)– produces products of exceptionally high quality, which in terms of performance parameters are not inferior even to popular European brands.

Abdullingips (Kazan)– has established the production of conventional gypsum boards and gypsum boards, which are distinguished by their low price compared to other Russian analogues.
"Golden Group Gips" (Tolyatti)– produces sheets of plasterboard using equipment from the French concern Lafarge. The products are distinguished by exceptional quality and competitive prices.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Figuring out how to make a partition from plasterboard – even the simplest one – is worth it for any craftsman. The thing is that structures on metal or wooden frame, sheathed with gypsum plasterboard, have quite acceptable load-bearing capacity, while they are quite easy to assemble, and, if necessary, just as easily dismantled.

An additional advantage of such a solution is its economy: if we need to carry out redevelopment with minimal costs, That better material can not found. Finally, making partitions from plasterboard is one of the most effective design techniques: by erecting one or more false walls, we can radically transform the room, dividing it into functional zones.

In any case, the technique is quite relevant, so the time you need to study it will definitely be well spent. Moreover, below I have collected only the most important information, verified from personal experience.

What do you need for work?

Materials

When planning the construction of gypsum plasterboard partitions, we first need to take care of the materials. The key role here will be played by the drywall itself, as well as the profiles for its installation:

For cladding, we purchase plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm (GOST 6266-97 “Gypsum plasterboard sheets. Specifications"). As a rule, when constructing structures in residential and utility rooms, standard gypsum is used, but when dividing a bathroom into separate bathrooms and toilets, it is better to use moisture-resistant one. Although this material is more expensive, it better resists swelling when moistened.
Separately, it is worth mentioning fire-resistant gypsum board (GKLO) and a combined version that provides resistance to both moisture and high temperatures (GKLVO). The scope of their application is very limited, since where there is a risk of fire, such partitions are very rarely erected - but it is necessary to keep in mind that such sheets also exist!

I prefer to make the frame for the partition from a galvanized steel profile. For the perimeter we will need a guide profile (PN/UW) from 50 to 100 mm, for vertical supports - a rack profile (PS/CW), the width of which will correspond to the width of the guide elements.

The guide profile is produced in panels of a standard length of 3 m. With a rack profile, everything is a little more complicated: there are products of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. You need to choose in accordance with the ceiling height in the room, since vertical extension of the rack is extremely undesirable. So be sure to take this into account when doing your calculations!

Sometimes instead steel profile For the manufacture of the frame, a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic is used. A partition made of bars and plasterboard may be cheaper, but in terms of strength it will be inferior to a structure with a metal base. In addition, wood is more prone to deformation, so I practically don’t use this option. .

In addition to drywall and frame elements for arranging the partition, we will need other materials:

hangers and other fasteners for gypsum boards;
sealing tape, which is laid between the frame and supporting structures;
fasteners (screws, dowel-nails with plastic sleeves, etc.);
wooden beam for decorating the doorway;
perforated corner for decorating the corners of the structure;
primer for gypsum plasterboard;
putty on drywall;
serpyanka tape for gluing seams.

If necessary, the partition can be insulated or filled with sound insulation - accordingly, for this you will need to purchase suitable materials(mats based on mineral fiber and analogues). It is also possible to lay wiring inside such partitions: we will need the wires themselves, cable ducts made of non-flammable material, socket boxes and bases for switches.

Tools

To attach the frame to the wall you need concrete drills

On the one hand, the construction of plasterboard partitions does not require the use special devices, and therefore everyone can cope with such a task. On the other hand, the set of tools for working with profiles and gypsum board is still extensive, and without it, work can become seriously complicated.

Be that as it may, I prefer to get down to business only with the following in hand:

A hammer drill with a set of concrete drills.
Cordless screwdriver.

We immediately purchase a special bit attachment for gypsum boards, which allows us to tighten the screws exactly to the required depth. The price of this device is purely symbolic (100 - 150 rubles maximum), but how much time and nerves it saves!

Crowns for cutting holes for installing sockets and switches.
Shears for metal (if a timber frame is being built, use a wood saw).
Roulette.
Level.
Plumb.
Hand tools – hammer, pliers, etc.
Painting knife with replaceable blades.
Saw for drywall (you can do without it, but it’s more convenient with it).
Planer for cleaning the ends of gypsum boards and for cutting seams between individual sheets.
Brushes for priming the surface.
Spatulas for finishing gypsum board.

It would also be a good idea to think in advance about exactly how we will carry out the cladding. IN standard houses or apartments there are usually no difficulties, but in a room with a high (3 m or more) ceiling you will have to use a special rack - otherwise it will not be possible to secure the profile and cladding right to the ceiling.

Budgeting information

When designing a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to estimate the amount of financial costs in advance. If we plan to do everything ourselves, then our budget will be limited only by the purchase and delivery of material. Of course, the cost of components for gypsum plasterboard partitions in different stores (and even more so in different regions) is different, but the general order of numbers can be found in the table I compiled:

Material	Unit	Average cost, rubles
Standard plasterboard	sheet 2500x1200x12.5 mm	200 — 250
- moisture resistant	—	250 — 280
- fire resistant	—	300 — 450
Guide profile PN	panel 3000 mm	75 — 300
PS rack profile	panel 3000 – 4000 mm	150 — 350
Perforated corner profile	panel 300 mm	40 — 125
Straight profile hanger	thing	10 -30
Single level connector	thing	10 – 30
Serpyanka ribbon	roll 20m x 50 mm	30 — 60
Sealing tape	roll 20m x 50 mm	200 — 300
Dowel-nail for fastening the profile	200 pieces	320 – 450
Self-tapping screw for gypsum board	1000 pieces	250 – 500
Fugenfuller putty	Packaging 25 kg	350 — 550
Uniloft putty	Packaging 25 kg	1100 — 1500

Installation technology

Marking

So, we’re done with everything we need, now let’s look at how to make partitions strong, even and beautiful. Today, the technology for installing structures with plasterboard sheathing has been worked out very well and is described in sufficient detail in regulatory documents In my work I focus primarily on:

SP 55-101-2000 “Enclosing structures using plasterboard sheets”;
SP 163.1325800.2014 “Structures using plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheets, design and installation rules”;
VSN 27-95 “Instructions for installation technology and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on metal frame element-by-element assembly”, etc.

In addition, when working, it is worth taking into account fire safety rules (SNiP 2.01.02-85, SNiP 21-01-97 and similar documents).

We start work with markings:

We clear the room in which the structure will be installed - in any case, it will interfere with us. We dismantle everything Decoration Materials: the frame must be installed exclusively on load-bearing surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling.
On one wall we set the distance we need twice: once along the floor, the second time along the ceiling. We connect the resulting points, controlling the verticality of the line using a plumb line.

We repeat the operations on the opposite wall.

We connect the resulting verticals along the floor and ceiling: we should end up with a rectangle, which will form the outline of our partition.

In the chosen place we mark the boundaries of the passage. If you plan to install a door, then we make the passage wider than required - we will need some extra space for the door frame.

Drawing and calculations

After this, we make a drawing on a sheet of paper, transferring the actual dimensions of our partition onto it.

Be sure to indicate the front and back sides of the structure in the drawing. If you do not do this, then there is a risk of blocking a door or other opening from the wrong side from which you planned. There were precedents!

On the drawing we mark the attachment points of the vertical rack profiles. The optimal profile pitch is 60 or 40 cm (respectively, 2 or 3 racks per standard gypsum board sheet 120 cm wide). It is not advisable to deviate from these figures, since this will increase the material consumption.
Based on the drawing data, we calculate the number of profiles needed to construct the frame. It is quite simple to calculate the guide profile: we calculate the perimeter of the partition, divide the resulting figure by the length of one panel and round up.
With rack profiles everything is somewhat more complicated. We need to determine the number of racks (each requires a separate profile panel) plus add the total length of the horizontal jumpers - they will be needed if we have to sheathe a partition with a height greater than a standard gypsum board sheet, i.e. more than 2500 mm.

It is also worth sketching out the layout of the sheets on the drawing. I usually make two patterns - for the front and back sides. This makes it much more convenient to adjust the placement of the sheathing sheets, trying to ensure that different sides The joints of the slabs were located on different racks. For example, from the front surface the joint falls on the third and fifth supports, and from the back - on the second, fourth and sixth.

When making calculations, you should focus on the configuration of your partition. To determine the material consumption, you can use the above sketch illustrating possible options GKL layouts and frame configuration.

After completing the calculations, we purchase the material, not forgetting about the stock: even from experienced craftsmen There are defects, and it is better to have an extra sheet of plasterboard and an extra profile panel on hand.

Frame installation

Now I will tell you how to make a partition on a metal frame. We begin work by installing guide profiles:

Using scissors, I cut the guide profile panel to fit the width of the room, and then stick sealing tape onto its flat base.

I lay the panel on the floor in such a way that one of its edges (usually the front) runs exactly along the marked marking line.

Using a hammer drill with a drill, I drill holes in increments of 40 to 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be equal to the length of the plastic dowel + 5-10 mm.

I hammer a plastic dowel into each hole with a hammer so that its neck is pressed tightly against the metal.
I fix the dowel with a locking screw with a conical point - first I hammer the fastener in with a hammer, and then I make two or three turns with a screwdriver or a screwdriver to tighten it.

IN wooden house It is better to install the frame not on dowels, but on wood screws. For fastening, I would recommend using phosphated fasteners with a wide head and deep thread, tightening it without pre-drilling - this will be much more reliable.

Using the same algorithm, I install guides on the walls and ceiling, forming a rectangular frame.

Next I attach the racks. I cut each part so that its length is 8-10 mm less than the height of the room, insert it into the guide profile and align it plumb. After that, I secure the rack with self-tapping screws from the bottom and top.

The stiffener should point in the direction from which the sheathing begins. I usually fasten sheets moving from left to right, so I orient the profile with the stiffeners to the left.

A little about fastening. Some craftsmen, instead of self-tapping screws, use special profile pliers, which work on the principle of a hole punch, punching a hole in the metal and bending the carved fragment for fixation. I tried it, but this device did not seem particularly convenient to me: perhaps I just need to get used to it.

Another nuance concerns the screw heads. Sometimes (almost always) they interfere with pressing the gypsum board tightly to the profile, so I use a little trick: I attach the racks to the guide profile only on one side (from the wrong side). Then, when the gypsum board is sewn on the front side, I unscrew these screws and install the back sheathing. The rigidity of the connection suffers, if at all, only slightly.

I connect the racks with crossbars, which I install at the horizontal junction of the sheets.

A few words should be said about doorway. The vertical posts along its edges must be strengthened. To do this, we insert into them either one more section of the profile (the configuration of Knauf parts allows this), or we lay wooden beams, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.

I make the door partition (lintel) like this: I cut off a fragment of the rack profile approximately 20 cm larger than the width of the opening. Side faces I cut exactly according to the dimensions of the opening, after which I bend it on each side along the resulting 10 cm segment. I insert the part between the side posts of the doorway and fix it with self-tapping screws.

I make sure to place at least two vertical posts above the door lintel - on them I will join the sheathing sheets from different sides.

Now that the frame is ready, we begin the final operations. So, at this stage I usually make holes in the racks and pass a cable channel through them with wires for sockets and switches.

GKL sheathing

The instructions for installing drywall sheets on a prepared frame are not complicated. If we have prepared the load-bearing elements taking into account all the requirements, then the cladding will go smoothly. If you missed something - and this happens even with experienced masters - then you will have to correct the situation on the go, fortunately, there are quite enough opportunities for this.

So, we start work from one of the corners (in our case, the left one). We cut the sheet of drywall on one side, cutting off approximately 5 - 6 cm - this section is usually made with a bevel and rounding to form more reliable joints.
We cut sheets using a knife or saw. Of course, it is advisable to use a workbench or a durable long table for this, but if that doesn’t work, you can simply cut the slabs on the floor, placing a wooden plank under the cutting area. It is best to cut from both sides: cut through the sheet almost right through, carefully break it, turn it over and cut through the cardboard on the other side. This will make the ends more neat.

We apply the gypsum board sheet to the frame so that the distance between the bottom edge and the floor is about 10 mm (protection from moisture). Using self-tapping screws for gypsum boards, we fix the sheet to the frame. The optimal fastening step is 15 cm, while it is advisable to make an indent from the edge of the sheet of at least 10 - 15 mm.

To securely fix the drywall to the profile, it is very important that the screws are tightened correctly. In this case, the cap should be recessed by 0.5 - 1 mm, but not break through the cardboard layer. It is to comply with this rule that I recommended above using a special bit with a limiter: a metal ring simply will not allow us to tighten the screw any tighter than necessary.

The next important aspect is joining the sheets. Edges can only be joined on a rack profile. The significant width of such parts makes adjustment easier (1-2 cm in one direction or another does not play a special role), but sometimes you still have to trim the edges of the plasterboard. When trimming, it is advisable to clean the end with a special plane and immediately cut off its corners by 450 - this will greatly facilitate the process of puttying the joint.

When joining any elements, remember that the attachment points and seams should not coincide. So, we tighten the screws on adjacent sheets “staggered”, and lay the drywall panels with the seam offset. For example, when installing a partition in a house with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, first we place a whole sheet below and a narrow strip on top, and then vice versa - a narrow fragment from below, and then a whole sheet up to the ceiling.

Having sheathed one side, we move to the other. At this stage, it is convenient to lay heat- and sound-insulating panels into the frame, make holes for socket boxes and switches with wiring connected to them, etc.

On the other hand, we carry out the cladding using the same algorithm. At the same time, I would like to remind you once again: if a joint was fastened “from the front” to one support, then from the inside the joint should fall on the adjacent support.

Finishing of the sheathed structure

After completing the drywall installation interior partition needs to be prepared for finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying decorative plaster, etc. I will tell you below how to do all the operations correctly at this stage.

The whole process can be divided into four tasks:

Masking defects in flat areas of plasterboard sheathing.
Masking the fastening points of self-tapping screws.
Sealing seams between gypsum board sheets.
Design of the corners of the structure.

Here it is best to work according to this scheme:

First, we check whether the heads of the screws protrude above the plane of the drywall, and if necessary, tighten them. Let's not overdo it!
We cut off the cardboard peelings, and then carefully clean such areas with sandpaper. We do the same with any defects on flat surfaces.
If we haven’t done this before (very in vain!), we unstitch the seams. To do this, carefully cut off the edges of the joined slabs with a knife, exposing the gypsum layer.

The joint of two whole panels with rounded or beveled ends does not require additional embroidery. Anyway, I limit myself to one or two passes with coarse sandpaper for better grip.

We treat the surface for better adhesion.
We prepare a fairly thick putty (or buy ready-made - it will be more expensive, but less fuss).

Using putty as a thick glue, we glue the perforated corner profile to all corners, and strips of sickle tape to all joints. We process these areas in such a way that the putty covers the serpyanka and the perforated corner. Completely filling all the holes and cavities underneath.
We align the corners first on one side, then on the other. Use a square to control the perpendicularity of the resulting planes.

We treat flat areas with putty, masking all defects and places where screws are fixed.
At the final stage, we rub all surfaces with an abrasive material. Under decorative plaster Coarse grain is sufficient, but for wallpaper, and even more so for painting, after the initial sanding, it is imperative to do the finishing sanding - with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper.