Do-it-yourself budget flooring in an apartment. Repairing the floor in an apartment with your own hands. Then the whole process starts in reverse order

Repair DIY apartment floor seems to us to be extremely challenging task. The good thing is that it doesn’t need to be done so often, and most apartment owners existing houses Face this problem, often only once. But if you are already planning to do a new one and want to modernize the space around you to the maximum, then before doing others repair work condition should be assessed existing coverage and, if necessary, begin to bring it to an ideal state.

Repairing the floor in an apartment with your own hands

As we already understood, it begins Do-it-yourself floor repair in an apartment from assessing the condition of your existing coating. In most cases, this will be concrete or cement strainer, signs of obsolescence of which will be cracks, spills and other troubles that are easy to identify visually. Have your own, but when we're talking about If the buildings are truly old and dilapidated, then the covering in them must be changed; rotten or holey boards can become a threat to your health.


The reason why you even think about working in a new building may also be the desire to use new and modern floor coverings, as well as technological innovations that allow you to use the surface to warm up the entire space. The guarantee that is given by leading manufacturers of parquet, laminate or even high-quality linoleum only works if the base coating is perfectly smooth. Consider whether it is worth spending a lot of money on a new decorative coating if, due to a poor-quality base, it can quickly become unusable, and you will only waste your money.

About features wooden bases we will talk a little later, because the majority still prefer reliable concrete, which has proven its effectiveness for decades reliable operation. All materials for it are available and it cannot be said that a basic concrete screed will be the largest cost item in your renovation budget. It is concrete that will become reliable basis for the entire set of coatings that we will use. Therefore, first of all, we will find out how Fill the floors in the apartment with your own hands.

Repairing the floor in an apartment with your own hands step by step

Carry out all necessary processes Repairing the floor in an apartment with your own hands step by step, without a huge number of puzzling questions, one can only to an experienced master, who has already made many similar coatings. Therefore, you should not be upset if at some stage something may go wrong or additional difficulties arise; if you have modern materials and tools, you will be able to correct all errors as you go. But still, it’s better to play it safe and find out the most full information about each stage long before it begins.


Not even the first, but rather the zero stage will be the dismantling of the old screed, which, in your estimation, has become unusable and must be completely replaced. Dismantling can be either complete, when absolutely the entire old layer is removed, or partial, when only the clearly deformed part is broken out, and the rest is patched up. The second option will allow you not only to save concrete mixture, but also get rid of the noisy, dusty and troublesome dismantling process. Before you start working, try to clean everything up so that there is not only large construction debris, but even dust and sand. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose, and remove not only the lower part, but also the walls at the height that the future screed will occupy.


Preparation of the solution concrete screed differs from cement in the presence of crushed stone in it. It is this material that allows the coating to be durable and strong, to withstand significant loads such as heavy furniture or large number residents. Select the proportions for preparing the concrete mixture individually, based not only on what materials you will use (grade of cement, quality of sand, size of gravel or crushed stone), but also on the expected loads. Eat Golden Rule in construction, that each subsequent layer should be weaker than the bottom one, so measure the required strength of the finishing coating and compare it with the base one. You can easily find tables and proportions online. The thickness of the future screed also matters, because it is one thing when you are constructing in a private house and a completely different matter when covering in apartments that were not originally designed for such a thickness.

Do-it-yourself floor screed in an apartment

The first stage is the formation of a flat concrete surface. Pre-installed beacons will help us maintain a uniform level throughout the room. Some professional builders do without them, determining the thickness floor screeds in the apartment with your own with your hands literally by eye, but if this is not even the first time you are doing this, you should still use this additional tool.


Perforated beacons are most often used as beacons on modern construction sites. metallic profile T or U-shaped. It is attached using concrete “cakes”, which are left on the floor in such quantities that each profile is 40-50 centimeters apart from each other, and 20 centimeters away from the walls. While the fastening concrete has not yet hardened, you can adjust the height of the slats so that the level shows their perfect evenness. In addition to the fact that beacons will allow you to apply the solution correctly, they will also improve the quality of the coating itself, which can “walk”, that is, expand and contract, which, if the mass is uniform, often leads to cracks. And with the use of metal compartments, the likelihood of this trouble is significantly reduced.


Now all you have to do is apply it yourself concrete mortar. Don’t try to pour out a lot of it at once; it will be difficult for you to cope with the rule rod, which you guide towards you along the upper border of the beacons. It is this process that will be the most difficult, the result will largely depend on the technique of handling the rule, so it is better to watch the implementation master class before doing this DIY floor screeds in an apartment, video with whom you are online. This initial layer should be left to dry for the period recommended by the concrete mix manufacturer. If it is a simple, classic mixture, then the screed may take 2-3 weeks to dry, but if plasticizers and other substances that accelerate adhesion are added to it, then drying will be completed in a couple of days.

Insulate the floor in an apartment with your own hands

A smooth and reliable concrete floor is only the first important stage of the entire process. This coating, although durable, has a very unpleasant property - it is cold. IN modern realities there are so many options insulate the floor in an apartment with your own hands what about leaving naked concrete covering out of the question.


The insulation can be laid on top of flat, dried concrete, but this is best done in the following sequence, which we will describe. First, you need to secure an insulating tape around the perimeter; it will prevent the finishing coating from being noisy and cold. We glue it with sealant, which we coat all the corners with. We do this not only in which it provides for increased waterproofing. It’s just that there may be cracks in the corners that are invisible at first glance and more liquid liquid mixtures can leak through them.


Lay out sheets of foam plastic on top, and special fasteners with large round caps and mushrooms are hammered between them. Then it is lined on top roll insulation, for example, foil isolon, it is thin, but allows you to retain most of the heat in the room. Already on top of the isolon you can pour the liquid mixture for self-leveling floors; its thickness after drying will be literally a few centimeters. Of course, the more expensive materials you use, the best result receive. But if you don’t need it in your apartment, your heating is good and there are no particular reasons to panic, you can use only one of the types of insulation.


If you need to hide pipes and communications inside, then in order not to bother with cutting out foam, you can use expanded clay and other bulk materials lightweight material, on top of which the finishing coating is also poured. In this case it will also be quite effective. There are also nuances in working with it, for example, leveling using a special toothed brush, so we recommend watching a lesson on how to Fill the floor in the apartment with your own hands, video with which it will clearly demonstrate how such a coating should look during operation.

Do-it-yourself wooden floors in an apartment


They can cause a little more trouble for their owners DIY wooden floors in an apartment. Wood is now a very popular material, like all other natural materials; it is believed that with its help you can make floors not only smooth, but also safe. However, in order for the tree to really serve you for a long time, without requiring repair or replacement, it is covered with so many varnishes and impregnations that it is difficult to judge its complete safety. In any case, if yours require replacement, you may not use a screed (for example, if the old floors cannot withstand its weight), but replace all the components of the floor structure.


First of all, disassemble all the old boards and remove from the inside all the construction debris and fabric that were previously used for insulation. Just as the beam is the basis for, so reliable logs made of thick timber will be the ideal basis for wooden flooring. They are attached to the floor by screwing fasteners into the ceiling or, if it is made of wood, into concrete pillars, which should be placed in the required places. The distance between the joists should not be too large so that tongue-and-groove boards or OSB boards didn't bend.

We screw them onto the joists with self-tapping screws, but first we lay light insulation between the beams, for example, basalt wool. Now that you have a flat and warm floor, you can either pour a light screed on top, or simply lay the floor covering. Also try to look at the features of wooden do-it-yourself flooring in an apartment video to see if it's worth the extra effort.


Having started renovations in an apartment, one cannot help but be faced with the question: how to make a flat floor correctly, so that the price of materials does not “bite”, and to do all the work yourself, without calling specialists. And it doesn’t matter at all whether the work starts from scratch or whether it’s an old floor that requires updating, the issue is serious and worth considering in detail. If only because not only strength and beauty matter, but also the abrasion of the coating, sliding characteristics, installation, etc.

What to lay?


Market offers are practically unlimited. Each user can choose a coating based on price, color and their preferences. Decoration Materials divided into groups, prices and the manufacturer tries to take into account all the wishes of customers. But not every material can be used in a particular room. For example, tiles. Plain, ceramic, dense and beautiful. The finish is ideal for the hallway and bathroom, but it is not always appropriate in the living room and bedroom. Therefore, first you should think about what and where to lay in an apartment or house. For example, pay attention to universal coatings: laminate, linoleum.

If you try hard, you can always find material of acceptable quality and affordable price. And then begin the process of renovation, restoration or complete renovation floors with your own hands.

Stages of laying a floor with a concrete base


Even starting a renovation from scratch, you need to first prepare the foundation. Not every consumer likes concrete, especially if it is the floor in an apartment on the first floors, so the base will have to be thermally insulated. The process is usually carried out using logs, which allows you to get a flat floor that is inexpensive.

Repair of concrete base


Often the subfloor has chips, dents or gouges that you can remove with your own hands. The simplest option is a screed. Completion will not take much time or effort, and also does not require knowledge. And even if the user is starting to work for the first time, it is enough to buy a ready-made mixture and do everything as written on the package. Dry powder is sold in packages clearly designed for the area, so you will have to find out this point before work. Now cover the base with waterproofing and begin renovating the floors with your own hands:

  1. Lay out the rolled materials with an overlap, overlapping the edges by 10-15 cm;
  2. Leave allowance for wall panels also 10-15 cm;
  3. Secure the edges of the strips with construction tape along the entire joint border;
  4. Pour the finished screed.

To make a flat floor in an apartment correctly, watch a video that will help you calculate the time required for repairs. Important point: if the apartment area is large, it is worth dividing the space into sections and pouring the foundation gradually. The use of metal guides in this case is necessary so that the solution does not overflow beyond the boundaries. After pouring, they are removed, the joints are sealed and transferred to another area, use metal elements as many times as you like.

In order for the floors in your apartment, made by yourself, to please you with durability and warmth, you will have to choose a heat-insulating substrate. In this case, the floor will always remain dry, and the final coating, for example, parquet, will not creak after the first year of operation. Manufacturers offer a wide range of materials, differing in structure, appearance and characteristics. For example, expanded clay is a dry filler whose price is very affordable. Possessing high quality and practical characteristics, expanded clay is easy to install. It is enough to scatter the dry material over the base, level it and fill it with another layer of screed. It’s a good idea to reinforce it with a reinforcing mesh. They lay it on top of the insulation, thereby securing the screed without limiting its “flexibility”.

As for roll or tile insulating materials, after installation it is worth covering them with waterproofing in the form of cellophane, for example. Otherwise, liquid (condensate) getting on them will destroy the quality properties and the insulation will become useless.

Watch the video again on how to make floors in an apartment with your own hands and you will definitely get a smooth floor that will last for decades.

How to make a floor using joists


Making floors in an apartment or house with your own hands using joists is even easier, but only when the height of the ceilings allows. Many experts recommend this option, emphasizing the optimality for several reasons:

  1. This is a dry method that does not require screed;
  2. The increased speed of the entire procedure allows you to move on to finishing work without much time investment.

If you do everything correctly, your new flat floor will be ready in just a matter of days. But first, they putty, fill cracks, chips, etc. Then waterproofing and installation of logs. For this purpose, a beam with a height of up to 70 mm is used, set in a horizontal plane. The process will be facilitated by placing the two outer lags with stretched transverse threads - it is easier to align the intermediate elements using them without losing their height and evenness.

After preparing the sheathing, lay a layer of insulation and waterproofing between the joists, attached directly to the bars, and any material of your choice is placed on top of the structure. For example, if you want a wooden floor in your apartment, take boards, but for heated floors you will need to make a solid foundation:

  • Plywood sheets;
  • Boards.

The sheathing is adjusted for sheets and slabs so that each element covers three bars: one in the middle, two at the edge. The support must be strong, but the tile material should be laid out, slightly shifting it. This improves the distribution of the load; it will fall evenly over the entire area of ​​the base. You will have to decide what and how much material to take yourself, calculating the area to be covered. It is convenient to make floors on joists in new apartment, starting renovation from scratch and in a room where the floors are pretty worn out. The option is extremely economical, especially when using expanded clay as a heat insulator, while the materials are lightweight, which means excess weight there will be no overlap.

But there are a number of points that must be fulfilled:

  1. The tree is coated with an antiseptic;
  2. The top side of the plywood is coated with hot drying oil so that the base always remains dry;
  3. Fastening with self-tapping screws along the joists will ensure strength;
  4. The joints are sealed with dry construction tape and puttied.

Important! If you want to make a solid floor, you can lay plywood in 2 layers, but in this case, self-tapping screws and glue are used for the top sheets. Now the coating is ready for final finishing and you can lay parquet, laminate, carpet or tiles. To make the process even clearer, watch the video.

Alternative options


There is another way to make floors in your house with your own hands. For example, using a dry screed. It is enough to lay gypsum fiber sheets that have density and strength. But here you need a flat surface and laying in at least 2 layers. How many elements to buy will be determined by the size of the room. Ease of use of this material is that connecting element tiles - a lock, you don’t have to buy more or think about how to secure the fragments to the base.

Important! GVL slabs are laid both on concrete and on logs. Watch the video, which shows the main points of laying out and fastening gypsum fiber sheets; perhaps this option for renovating or repairing floors with your own hands will be the most acceptable.

It is up to the owner to decide which option to choose. But remember that even the most complex processes do not always require extensive knowledge and experience. A few tips, patience and full calculation: how much material to take, how to fasten, what to put, will help you cope even in difficult situation when you need to make the floors in your house with your own hands. And thanks to new technologies, manufacturers offer almost completely ready-made materials, the process of working with which is extremely easy.

With the exception of a small percentage of secondary buildings with wooden floors, in multi-storey buildings slab floors are used. Either a floor covering made of tongue-and-groove boards or a subfloor made of edged boards, OSB, GVL, DSP, plywood or chipboard for other cladding (parquet, linoleum, PVC tiles, cork, tiles, carpet and other materials).

Therefore, repairing a wooden floor in a Khrushchev-era building can be done in a day (replacing tongue and groove) or take several weeks (laying sound insulation, insulation, joists and subfloor under parquet).

Due to the complex design and numerous layers of the cake, repairing a wooden floor in an apartment is varied, labor-intensive and budget-intensive. If lost appearance The surface of the tongue-and-groove board is cleaned of the existing layer of paint and varnish and painted in several layers to give the necessary aesthetics.

In all other cases, partial or complete dismantling of the covering or subfloor becomes inevitable. To simplify the search for reasons for reducing the performance properties of a structure, layer-by-layer dismantling is usually practiced:


The causes of squeaking can be any structural element (floorboard, joist or self-tapping screw) when the mutual fixation with another part of the floor is weakened. Therefore, to eliminate creaking, they use different methods– from filling the cracks in the floorboards with talcum powder to replacing the joists or screwing all the boards to the joists at an angle of 45 - 60 degrees in new places.

The causes of squeaking are wear and tear on the wooden floor elements.

Advice! When initially laying tongue-and-groove boards as flooring Only the first, every fourth and last rows of material are rigidly attached to the joists. After the floorboards dry out after 3–12 months, the flooring is re-tightened using jacks, clamps or other tools. This operation is not a floor repair, but refers to the maintenance of the coating.

Repair technology

When using a multi-layer structure, repairing wooden floors in an apartment becomes necessary when there are auditorily and visually obvious defects that sharply reduce the comfort of living. In other words, they walk on the floor covering until they get tired of the squeaking or the user’s foot falls through.

A preventive inspection is not economically profitable, since it requires removing all the furniture, dismantling the baseboard, all or most of the floorboards. Repairs are carried out as the structure is dismantled; depending on its complexity, special technologies are used:


Important! After an inspection of the floorboards, boards that are unsuitable for further use are rejected. Either defective areas are cut out of them (rot, fungus, mold, warping, flying through knots).

Removing squeak

In Soviet times, the practice was to use wooden floors in Khrushchev and Brezhnevka buildings. The logs were laid on glassine and leveled with wooden wedges. The tongue and groove board was pulled together once - during the finishing of the rooms, users were usually not warned that the floorboards needed to be pulled together again after drying.

The cause of the creaking is the weakening of the mutual fixation of two or more structural elements. Under the load from the traffic of residents, they bend and emit characteristic sounds.

To eliminate a squeak, the following algorithm of actions is usually used:

  • identifying a creaking area by ear and outlining it with chalk;
  • checking the presence of a fastening element (nail or self-tapping screw);
  • existing nails can be driven into the wood with a punch;
  • using a self-tapping screw with a full thread, the floorboard is fixed in any convenient position relative to the joist bar;
  • using a self-tapping screw with an incomplete thread, you can tightly press two wooden floor elements to each other, including if the hole in the floorboard has expanded over time;
  • a polymer wedge is driven under the joist hanging above the floor slab;
  • When rotten sections of lumber that have turned into dust are found, they are cut out and the timber/board is extended with new pieces treated with an antiseptic.

Boards in rows located far from the walls are very difficult to dismantle without destroying the locking joint. Therefore, their spatial geometry and relative position relative to the floorboards in adjacent rows are regulated by longitudinal wedges:

  • the wedge is planed from long wood chips;
  • driven between rows of floorboards;
  • prevents sagging, eliminates creaking;
  • sanded flush with the surface of the floorboards.

After this, local painting of the defective area is carried out or the floors are repainted entirely.

Replacing a tongue and groove board

Usually done in dry rooms complete replacement floor covering, since the wear of the boards is the same. In rooms with high humidity and the abundance of cold water communications, sewerage, and hot water supply, restoration of individual areas affected by mold, mildew or rot due to pipeline leaks is more often used. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

  • The joists and the condition of the screed should be carefully examined;
  • if the condition of these structural elements is unsatisfactory, the overhaul of the covering will cost less, since the service life of the renewed area will be much higher than that of the existing floorboards, which will also soon have to be replaced;
  • the tongue-and-groove board is laid using standard technology (attached to the joists of every 4 rows), after 4 - 12 months the flooring must be tightened again with each row of boards fixed to the joists;
  • The plinth is attached exclusively to the walls to ensure high maintainability of the coating and mobility during the linear expansion of wood (about 0.15% for dry lumber).

Important! The height of the groove/tongue of modern lumber may not coincide with similar locks of the tongue in use, produced during the Soviet era.

Therefore, the flooring restoration technology is used according to the following scheme:


Advice! It is forbidden to use gaskets between the joists and floorboards of the finished floor, since these are the parts that cause squeaking in the future. Plastic wedges should be placed under the logs, and the upper plane of the bars from which they are made should be controlled.

Replacing subflooring

When repairing an old wooden floor, it may be necessary to replace the worn-out subfloor. At a lag pitch that satisfies the operational loads, these elements remain in place; only the subfloor is dismantled and replaced with a new one.

Depending on the finishing floor covering, the following materials can be used:


The work is carried out using standard technologies, ensuring natural ventilation in the underground space.

Replacing the log

If the wooden floor covering has no visual defects, but its surface is uneven, there are creaks and other factors that reduce the quality of living, you will have to completely dismantle the parquet or tongue and groove board to provide access to the bars on which the floor covering is attached.

Before repairing the joists, the screed should be inspected and it is possible to replace the insulation, waterproofing and acoustic materials. In Soviet times, expanded clay or sawdust served as insulation; these materials are less effective than expanded polystyrene, ecowool, and basalt heat insulator. Therefore, they are collected in bags and disposed of.

Replacement of logs is carried out using the following technology:

  • horizontal marking with a laser plane builder to find the top point;
  • drawing horizontal lines on walls at an arbitrary height;
  • laying timber near the walls, taking into account the horizontal level.

The joists can be mounted on polymer wedges or special adjustable bolts (adjustable floor system). The block must be securely fixed to the floor slab (screed) with anchors to prevent creaking and movement during operation. Therefore, when using wedges, long anchors are used; in adjustable floor systems, the stability of the spatial geometry of the structure is ensured by metal studs:

  • they pass through the block;
  • attached to the base;
  • adjustable in height with a nut, positioning the logs at the required level;
  • The studs are cut flush with a grinder after all the joists inside the room are aligned in a single horizontal plane.

Advice! The logs have a certain thickness, so wooden floors(draft and finishing) by default an underground space appears in which it is necessary to provide natural ventilation. To do this, it is necessary to make cuts in the joists, and install gratings diagonally in the corners of the room into the subfloor and floor covering.

Insulation materials

Despite the fact that the wooden floor in an apartment has soundproofing properties and reduces heat loss, it is often required additional installation insulating materials. Their relative position in the wooden floor pie is as follows:

  • sound-absorbing materials - always laid on a screed or floor slab to cut off structural noise from the lower apartment;
  • insulation – located on top of the acoustic material, the thickness is selected depending on the specific operating conditions;
  • vapor barrier - preferably a membrane laid on top of thermal insulation under subfloor boards or flooring wood covering to protect the insulation from getting wet by vapors humid air from the premises;
  • waterproofing - applied by gluing or coating method to the screed or floor slab, during wet areas the second layer of waterproofing is made on top of the wooden floor before laying moisture-resistant cladding (protection against sewerage and water supply leaks).

Pie of wooden floor in the apartment.

Advice! The presence of all specified insulating layers does not constitute prerequisite. For example, the thickness of the floor slab may be sufficient so that the concrete completely prevents penetration air noise. In this case, you can do without soundproofing material.

Paintwork works

Painting floorboards is a cosmetic renovation. Before painting, the following work is carried out:


Options for painting wooden floors.

After which, the repaired floor is painted in several layers.

Sanding and sanding

When saving bearing capacity elements of a wooden floor may require restoration of its flatness for a number of reasons:

  • the boards have dried out and warped over time;
  • Gaps have formed between the floorboards;
  • the tongue “bent out like a hump” in cross section;
  • In some areas the boards sank.

If the tongue or parquet is sufficiently thick, these defects can be corrected without major repairs by grinding or scraping. Equipment for scraping is expensive and is rarely needed, so it makes more sense to rent this equipment for the duration of the repair.

Sanding the tongue with a belt machine.

Sanding does not require high qualifications; the necessary skills are acquired after processing 2 - 3 m² of flooring. Looping machine more difficult to use, so it’s easier to order the service from qualified specialists.

Thus, when using a wooden floor in an apartment, repairs are available home handyman on your own. The easiest way is to level the floor, get rid of the creaking floorboards and paint the surface. Major repairs and replacement of joists and floorboards will cost more and take more time.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

The most used and worn part of the room is the floor. In this regard, floor repair is a procedure that requires a thorough and meaningful approach. How to repair floors in an apartment, what to pay attention to and how to avoid unnecessary expenses, we will consider below.

Assessing the complexity and capital of work

Open up the old coating and determine the scope of work

Before you start purchasing building materials In order to carry out floor repairs, you need to decide what condition the coating is in now, and clearly understand what quality of floor you want to receive at the end of the process.

To do this, it is necessary to open the floor covering and assess the condition of the screed. If this is a new building, then there are fewer problems, the screed is visible and its quality is quite easy to assess. Repairing floors in an old apartment may also include dismantling the cement screed.

In addition, when starting to repair a wooden floor in an apartment with your own hands, it is worth assessing the condition of the final floor covering: a complete replacement is required or partial reconstruction is possible.

As a rule, high-quality wooden floors made of boards or parquet are not replaced entirely, but only the completely damaged elements are restored and replaced.

This is explained primarily by the high cost of the material and the ability to carry out patch or segmental repairs of the floor.

Let's look at two situations:

  • floor repair, including restoration of concrete screed;
  • restoration of wooden floors.

Major repairs of flooring

Hydro- and thermal insulation can be laid on the dried screed

Having removed the top finishing coating and assessed the condition of the screed, you have come to the conclusion that the concrete base requires replacement. To fill a new screed you must:

  • dismantle the old base to the floor slabs;
  • thoroughly clean the floor surface from debris;
  • carry out waterproofing measures by treating the base with a deep penetration primer;
  • cover the floor with film overlapping the walls and secure it with damper tape;
  • pour concrete screed;
  • ideally level the base with finishing fill.

After the screed has dried, you can carry out work on installing any type of floor covering. Between thin decorative coating and a concrete base, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing film and thermal insulation material. This will extend the life of the coating, significantly reduce heating costs and delay next repair floor.

A new screed can be arranged in several ways, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Screed type Advantages Flaws
Liquid pouring of concrete or cement mortar Ease of operation, the most economical and familiar option. A long drying period, during which further work on the floor cannot be carried out
Self-leveling floors based on dry construction mixtures Convenient to mix, easy to fill and level, their drying period is a maximum of 10 days. There are self-leveling liquid floors and repairs in this case will not require much effort at all: there is no need for leveling. The result of the floor repair will please you - a perfectly flat, durable surface. Cost of the material: the price of SSM floors is quite high, and a large volume will be required for purchase.
Dry screed Will be a solution for home floor repairs old building. The low weight of the material will not add load to the floors, but will be extra warmth and soundproofing. Cannot be used on sloped floors. In addition, dry screed is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity.

Reconstruction of an old screed

If concrete base gender, in general, has no complaints, and there is only a need cosmetic repairs small cracks and chips, then the following work must be carried out:

  • clean cracks from debris and dust,
  • treat the surface with a primer;
  • fill the crack cement mortar with the addition of plasticizers;
  • wait for complete setting;
  • Clean the surface level with the floor.

In a situation where an old screed is being restored, it is better to pour a finishing leveling coating 0.5 - 1 cm thick in order to avoid unpleasant surprises when laying decorative floor coverings.

Restoration of wooden floors

In a situation with cement floors all clear. But when faced with renovations in old houses, owners are wondering: how to repair the wooden floor in an apartment? This type of flooring has its own specifics both in the design technology and in working with the material.

Wooden covering repair

The procedure for repairing wooden floors in an apartment should start from the base, namely by checking the condition of the logs. Wooden floors on joists, many builders believe ideal option for flooring:

  • no concrete screed required;
  • quick time the floor is ready for use;
  • additional thermal insulation.

Replace old logs with new ones

If the logs are rotten, they must be dismantled and new ones installed. At the beginning of the work, it is necessary to get rid of defects in the ceiling by filling all the cracks. Then lay down the waterproofing material and proceed to installing the joists.

For the guides, timber up to 7 cm thick is used. When installing the logs, strictly observe the horizontal level. To simplify the process, place the two outermost logs, stretch the beacon between them and bring the rest to the specified height.

After installing the logs, thermal insulation material is laid between them. It could be slab insulation, filling with expanded clay or foaming.

Next, a finishing coating is applied to the joists. The plank flooring is laid on the guides and secured. The sheet covering is installed offset to properly distribute the load. When installing joists under sheet materials it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the plate. To learn how to replace rotten floors, watch this video:

The timber must be installed with such frequency that when installing the sheet, its surface hits at least 3 guides.

Scheme of a wooden floor

The procedure for installing flooring sheets on joists:

  • surface wooden elements treated with an antiseptic and fireproof solution;
  • outer side plywood sheet soaked in hot drying oil;
  • sheets are laid out offset;
  • secure the plywood with self-tapping screws into the joists; seal the joining seams with putty or tape.

If two layers of plywood are laid, then the second one is fastened with self-tapping screws with additional lubrication reverse side glue. In this case, the sheets are laid perpendicularly.

Partial replacement of plank floors

If wooden joists in good condition, the finishing coating material needs to be replaced. In such a situation, floor repairs proceed according to the following scenario:

  • we sand the boards, removing paint to assess the condition of the wood;
  • we select material suitable for further use;
  • dismantle rotten sections of the floor;
  • we strengthen suitable boards, fasten them to the joists with self-tapping screws, and bury old nails;
  • restore the evenness of the surface using putty;
  • we install new boards on damaged areas;
  • we go over the floor with a sanding machine;
  • we clean the boards with a brush, vacuum, make wet cleaning, let the wood dry for at least 12 hours;
  • paint or varnish. Watch this video for more details:

All the work is not complicated and does not require special skills, so anyone can repair wooden floors with their own hands.

The service - floor repair has several interpretations. This phrase can include either the replacement of one parquet block or the complete dismantling of the old floor and installation of a new one. The San Sanych company provides a full range of services, with a guarantee of quality and strict compliance with all standards provided for by the rules for redevelopment of apartments. These standards may differ in individual regions. Our company has been successfully providing floor repair services in Moscow for many years, where there are strict requirements from management companies and the toughest competition.

Floor design



A modern floor, as a rule, is a multi-layer structure, where each element has its own purpose.

Floor structure, excluding interfloor covering(slabs):

  • intermediate layer;
  • flooring.

These are two main layers. In the simplest versions, it happens that there is no intermediate layer, for example, in some “Khrushchev-era apartments”.

In modern apartment buildings the structure of the interfloor covering represents complex design, equipped with sound-heat and moisture insulation.

In frame monolithic structures The roof of the houses consists of a mixture of concrete and expanded clay. Excellent insulating layer.

IN wooden floors made of beams, also contains an insulating layer, the material most often consists of mineral wool.

There may not be any overlap: basement, ground floor. In this case, the floor is mounted on a screed, which is placed on a compacted sand cushion.

Stages of work








At major renovation First, the floors in the room are redone. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. the surface is cleaned before subsequent leveling;
  2. all cracks are sealed: in corners, joints, etc.;
  3. the surface is primed with a special mixture;
  4. the floor is leveled construction staff, ready mix stretches over the surface;
  5. flooring, finishing.

Repair work of any complexity

What kind of floors do we repair?

Wooden - any design

Repairing a wooden floor is a complex and time-consuming process, but our experienced specialists can handle any task. Difficulty may lie in quality and age wooden structure. Do-it-yourself is a long-term floor repair. The price and speed of our specialists are quite acceptable for the average Russian. Our craftsmen solve this problem in two ways: the first option, complete replacement, the second, leveling the floor, installing plywood, followed by covering with laminate or linoleum.

Concrete

Our clients mainly order repair work using this option for a bathroom or toilet. For large rooms, a concrete floor serves as the basis for a certain coating. The cost of repairing the floor of this option depends on the volume of the area covered.

Liquid

Complex work requiring knowledge and experience. Self-leveling flooring is becoming popular due to its aesthetics and durability.

Repair and restoration of old floors

Repairing the floor in an apartment: “Khrushchev” and “Stalin” buildings is also considered a labor-intensive process, but our craftsmen have sufficient experience in replacing and reconstructing old, creaky floors.

The price for a turnkey floor renovation in Moscow cannot be fixed; it is calculated by calculation. The exact cost is determined by a specialist, drawing up an estimate, after a preliminary inspection.

Price list for floor dismantling

Removal of linoleum, carpet (per layer) sq.m. 80Removing plywood, hardboard (per layer) sq.m. 100Removing tiles from half a sq.m. 150Dismantling tile adhesive sq.m. 100Dismantling of parquet flooring sq.m. 250Dismantling a wooden half sq.m. 280Dismantling wooden skirting boards.p40Dismantling ceramic skirting boards.p60Dismantling of granite tiles sq.m. 240Removal of concrete screed (up to 3 cm) sq.m. 150Removal of concrete screed (more than 3 cm) sq.m. 250Removal bitumen mastic with half a sq.m. 350Cleaning up old debris, slag, etc. in old houses after dismantling a wooden or parquet floor sq.m. 200Garbage collection and loading into a container (light garbage, without the cost of a container with an elevator up to 20 meters from the entrance sq.m. 3500Garbage collection and loading into a container (heavy garbage, without the cost of a container with an elevator up to 20 meters from the entrance) sq.m. 4500
Name of worksUnitPrice

Price list for floor repairs and installation

Primer of floors 1 layer sq.m50Floor waterproofing (hydroglass insulation) sq. m250Floor waterproofing (water stop mixture) sq. m180Filling of expanded clay under the screed up to 50 mm sq. m100Screed reinforcement sq. m80Installation of warm water half sq. m850Installation of warm electric half sq. m550Cement-sand screed (up to 40 mm) sq.m350Cement-sand screed (from 40 to 60 mm) sq.m450Cement-sand screed (from 60 to 80 cm) sq.m550Installation of dry floors Knayfkv.m650Partial leveling of floors.p.300Finish screed with self-leveling mixture (self-leveling floor) sq. m240Installation of wooden beams sq. m250Laying plywood sq.m 350Sanding plywood sq. m300Installation of hardboard sq. m120Laying laminate takv.m340Laying parquet boards.p.450Laying engineering boards.p.650Laying piece parquet m.p.850Piece parquet scraping sq.m550Varnishing of piece parquet in 2 layers sq.m250Laying cork on adhesive m650Laying solid boards sq.m 950Linoleum flooring (household) sq. m200Commercial linoleum flooring m280Installation of plastic skirting boards, item 120Installation of MDF and wooden skirting boards sq. m 350Varnishing of wooden skirting boards.p.60Installation of metal thresholds m.p.200Laying ceramics. tiles standard size(20*30) (from 100 m2) sq.m650Laying ceramics. standard size tiles (20*30) sq.m950Laying tiles of standard size (20*30) diagonally sq.m 1100Laying small tiles, mosaics, or complex patterns sq.m 1500Laying granite, marble, square mot 2500Laying ceramics. ornamental plinths, borders, item 280Installation of tiled thresholds. item 1000Shaped tile cutting (cutting at 45) m.p.1000Cladding steps with ceramic tiles, size 850Grouting of tile joints, item 80Grouting mosaics and small tiles.p.300
Name of worksUnitPrice
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