The new SNiP for thermal protection, introduced in 2003, imposes strict requirements for thermal insulation wooden walls. If previously a house made of timber 200 mm thick or rounded logs with a diameter of 280 mm “fit” into the standards, now they no longer comply with the new standard. Of course, owners of existing buildings may not do anything, but we must take into account that investing in insulating a wooden house is cheap compared to several years of bills for heating and air conditioning. Let's consider how and with what to insulate the outside wooden house so that it is of high quality, and the house does not lose its environmental properties.

Insulation of wooden walls Source drev-dekor.ru

Insulation methods

According to current regulations, there are three types of structures external walls by the number of layers.

Single layer. Load-bearing and thermal insulation properties are combined at the level of the building material of the enclosing structure. For stone houses, we can give an example of a porous large-format ceramic block or foam concrete block. For frame wooden houses- These are SIP panels.

With a thickness of polystyrene foam in SIP panels from 20 cm, the house will be warm in any frost Source quickhouse.com.ua

As a reference! The new standards are so strict that these walls may also need insulation if the thickness of the base material is insufficient.

Three-layer. Walls in which the outer layer relative to the insulation is structural materials with a thickness of at least 50 mm, fixed to the base with point connections. Classic example– an insulated house, lined with brick. You can find such examples of designs of enclosing walls for wooden houses. And in this case, we are talking specifically about brick cladding, since cladding with imitation timber or a block house is by definition not suitable due to the thickness of the outer layer.

Double-layer with external thermal insulation. This is the most common way to insulate a wooden house. Moreover, such a design can be without an air gap or with a ventilated air gap.

Classic scheme of mineral wool insulation with wood siding cladding Source repair-need.ru

We can talk about four options for how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

"wet facade";

curtain façade;

sprayed thermal insulation

brick cladding.

The standards indicate another type of construction - with a non-ventilated air gap. But such insulation of a wooden house is not recommended due to the characteristics of the material itself.

Features of wood as a wall material

Regardless of the structural materials of the walls, when insulating a building it is important to follow the following rules formulated at the SNiP level:

thermal insulation must be reliably protected from moisture penetration into it;

access of water vapor to thermal insulation should be limited as much as possible;

the arrangement of layers should ensure drying of the structure and prevent the accumulation of moisture in it.

The first rule is technically easy to implement. The exterior finish protects from contact with atmospheric moisture, the properties of which can be enhanced with the help of a waterproofing membrane.

Video description

Another option for protecting wood from moisture in the video:

Protection against water vapor penetrating from inside the house is provided by appropriate vapor-proof membranes, which do not prevent wooden walls from “breathing”, but trap larger water molecules present in the warm air of the heated room. And here there is some contradiction with the requirement for the arrangement of layers, which should ensure the weathering of water vapor from the structure.

Wood is an unusual building material - it easily absorbs atmospheric moisture and just as easily releases it. But if you attach a vapor-proof membrane to the outside of the wall, the natural moisture transfer will be disrupted, and this is bad for wooden structures, which begin to rot when wet. Therefore, many experts advise not to use external films (membranes only) for wooden walls as waterproofing, and to abandon vapor-tight membranes altogether, so as not to interfere with water vapor escaping from the wall and insulation in both directions.

Note! If you look at the websites of leading manufacturers of ready-made plastering and curtain facades(Knauf, Ceresit, Scanroc), then none of them have a vapor-proof membrane in their “pie” structure to protect the insulation.

Factory-made façade systems do not provide a vapor-tight membrane between the wall and the insulation Source derevyannyydom.com

And these same requirements for drying the structure impose restrictions on the choice of insulation.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Choosing insulation for the walls of a wooden house

None regulatory document There is no direct ban on the use of polystyrene foam. Moreover, expanded polystyrene is indicated as insulation for a wooden house in all acceptable types of structures. But its vapor permeability is much less than that of wood across the grain (not to mention the direction along the grain). And if it is used as thermal insulation, it will completely block the weathering of water vapor from the wooden wall to the outside.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on insulating a house with polystyrene foam. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Penoplex, also known as extruded polystyrene foam, differs from conventional foam only in production technology, and its vapor permeability is just as low. Therefore, this popular “wet facade” thermal insulation material is not suitable for two-layer insulation of wooden walls.

The same arguments “work” against the use of sprayed polyurethane foam. And if during the installation of polystyrene foam there are any seams and cracks, then the seamless “shell” of vapor-tight thermal insulation will completely eliminate the possibility of excess moisture venting outside.

This method of insulation eliminates the possibility of natural ventilation of wooden walls Source remontik.org

Mineral wool best meets the conditions of “drying out the structure”. If we talk about fire safety, then in this parameter it is most suitable for insulating a wooden house. And of the three types mineral wool usually use stone. It is more difficult to work with glass wool - when adjusting and installing, small crumbs are formed from fragments of fiberglass, which are dangerous for the skin and respiratory tract. Slag wool is not recommended for insulating residential buildings due to its low environmental qualities.

Sprayed thermal insulation is eco-wool with “wet” technology for application to walls.

This is what the eco-wool insulation technology looks like (wet method) Source remontik.org

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, the facade must be prepared.

There is a standard set of measures for any type of building, which consists of freeing the surface from hanging elements. And there are works typical for a wooden house - checking the condition of inter-crown insulation, caulking (if necessary) and treating with an antiseptic.

Insulating a wooden house does not eliminate the need for caulking of inter-crown joints Source tiu.ru

Preparatory work must be carried out in dry weather. This is especially important for impregnating the top layer of wood with an antiseptic. The treatment process itself consists of applying the solution using the “dying” method, and if the capillaries of the top layer contain water, the antiseptic will not be properly absorbed into the wood.

Treatment with an antiseptic is a mandatory step before insulating and covering wooden walls with façade panels Source ultra-term.ru

Features of the “wet facade”

When attaching mineral wool to a wall in the “wet facade” system, an adhesive solution and mechanical fasteners are used. And the glue plays main role, since the number of metal heat-conducting inclusions in thermal insulation should be limited. And so that the slabs of hard mats stone wool could be securely fixed, the wall should be fairly flat or have minor differences in “relief” in height, which can be corrected with a layer of adhesive mortar. Only houses made of timber meet this condition.

The surface of log walls must be leveled. This can be done with OSB, moisture-resistant plywood or plasterboard for exterior finishing (the Knauf company recently presented this type of gypsum board). But plywood and OSB do not meet the requirements for vapor permeability facial finishing wooden house, and in any case, sheathing is required for leveling. And the use of sheathing and additional materials negates the advantage of a “wet façade” over a ventilated one – its relatively low cost.

They use a “wet facade” for additional insulation frame houses. And if one of the types of polymer materials, then for external insulation you can use foam plastic - it will not worsen the vapor permeability of the walls.

Insulate frame house You can also use polystyrene foam Source stroyew.ru

There are also some peculiarities in the methods of attaching insulation to wooden walls, when self-tapping screws are used instead of dowels, and the adhesive solution is highly elastic.

Otherwise, the insulation technology has a standard sequence of work:

A starting strip is attached along the perimeter of the base (grillage).

Install the bottom row of stone wool mats. Use glue and at least 5 pcs. self-tapping screws per 1 m².

When installing the next rows, the vertical seams are shifted by at least 20 cm.

Window and door openings in the corners should not have intersecting seams of insulation sheets.

The surface is reinforced with fiberglass mesh, and the corners are reinforced with perforated corners. An adhesive solution is used to fix the reinforcing elements.

A layer of mortar is again applied on top of the mesh (the total thickness should be about 6 cm), the surface is leveled, and after drying, it is sanded.

The façade is being plastered and painted.

Video description

You can see the wet façade in the video:

How to insulate a wooden house with polystyrene foam

If desired, you can find examples of using polystyrene foam to insulate a wooden house from the outside. Moreover, there is a technology that does not impair the “breathing” properties of the walls and the level of comfort, which is ensured due to natural gas exchange between rooms and the street. This is achieved by creating a ventilated gap between the insulation and the wall. Moreover, in this case, it does not matter what the walls are made of - timber or logs.

In order not to worsen the “breathing” properties of a wooden house, a ventilated gap must be created between the foam plastic and the wall Source bouw.ru

Video description

In our video we will look at how polystyrene foam is produced, is polystyrene foam harmful and where is it used?

In cross-section, the structure looks like this:

main wall;

lathing made of timber with a height of at least 60 mm ( minimum size for a ventilated gap);

fastening the insulation to the sheathing (expanded polystyrene, EPS);

finishing with facade panels or a layer of plaster reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

But once again it must be emphasized that this method of insulation will not be cheaper than a ventilated facade. In addition, it violates the recommendations of the standards, which indicate that the air gap should be located between the insulation and the outer layer.

Video description

What happens if you insulate with polystyrene incorrectly - in the video:

Features of the curtain façade

In this case, the requirements for the peel strength of the insulation surface are not as high as for a “wet facade”, so the density of the mats can be less than 125 kg/m³, but higher than 80 kg/m³.

Attention! When choosing how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, you need to know that the use of rolled mineral wool in curtain wall facades is not recommended by regulatory documents.

Already exist ready-made systems curtain facades with their own fastening subsystem, a set of panels and fasteners. The only drawback such systems require individual adjustment to the specific geometry of the house and walls. As a rule, these systems are designed for houses made of brick or building blocks, and aluminum sandwich panels, artificial stone, and porcelain stoneware are used as cladding.

For cladding wooden houses, imitation timber, block house, planken, and siding are usually used. That is, those materials that are more consistent with the aesthetics of a wooden house.

If you want to change the decorative qualities of a wooden house, you can use facade panels made of artificial stone Source stroyfora.ru

The most common practice of making lathing from wooden beam– it is easy to adapt to the surface of the walls, easier to fasten, it does not change dimensions due to temperature changes and does not serve as a “cold bridge”.

Wooden sheathing is the easiest option Source otopleniehouse.ru

The only drawback of wooden structures is their low resistance to moisture. Therefore, both the sheathing elements and finishing panels are made of natural wood Before installation, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

As a result, what other options can you consider?

The article described only the two most common ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside. The better it will be in your case and other options should be discussed with a developer who knows local conditions. The use of eco-wool has not yet become widespread, although the technology is quite simple - installing the sheathing to the wall, applying insulation to the surface in a “wet” form (mixed with glue) using special equipment, and covering the sheathing with facade panels. Cladding with flexible bricks follows the same rules as for a stone house, with the only limitation on the choice of insulation - the use of only mineral wool.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the entire process, when installing any type of insulation there are a sufficient number of pitfalls that must be taken into account so that all the work is not done in vain. If you have no experience, then it is always better to invite a professional, especially since self-respecting developers perform all work under a contract and provide a guarantee.

– this is the placement of a thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to reduce heat loss as much as possible by supplementing the internal thermal insulation with external insulation. We will figure out how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside, evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of different materials.

Specifics of insulating frame houses from the outside

In quickly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of heat insulator is assigned directly wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the frame posts and covered with rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards, etc.

However, if the work is performed poorly or the thickness or density of the insulation is incorrectly selected, the house may not retain heat well. To reduce energy costs and improve the indoor microclimate in winter, additional insulation is required.

A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:

1. Low thermal conductivity. Among the insulation materials that can boast of this property are: polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
2. Minimal water absorption. Despite additional protection thermal insulation layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
3. Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not contribute to the spread of fire and produces little smoke when burning.
4. Light weight. Frames are erected on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.

Besides, facade insulation for exterior decoration of a house, it must retain linear dimensions well and not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.

Choosing thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials

The optimal insulation option for outdoor use in frame construction– basalt wool. The material is thermally efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. If you are on a limited budget, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam with fire retardants is suitable.

Video: insulating the facade using the “wet” method

In order to maintain warmth and comfort in the house, it is necessary to add a thermal insulation layer to the external walls. Special attention are given to buildings that have been in use for a long time and have experienced many negative impacts. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of insulating an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to allow vapors to pass out, making it always comfortable to stay indoors. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely block the loss of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts say that there is no better insulation for an old wooden house. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

1. Excellent heat retention.
2. Isolates interior spaces from extraneous sounds from environment.
3. Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
4. The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
5. Fire and environmental safety.
6. Rodents do not use them to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

• protection from moisture is necessary, therefore the mineral wool is torn with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and windproof film, with another;
• requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to cope with, so this option is suitable for an old house or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the affordable class. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. Besides positive point, there are a number of others:

1. Good thermal insulation properties.
2. It is soundproofed.
3. Does not absorb moisture.
4. Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes polystyrene foam unsuitable for insulation village house from a log house:

• lack of vapor permeability;
• rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
• rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
• polystyrene foam ignites easily and then smolders, releasing caustic substances.

Wood already burns well, and if the finishing is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene foam. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What characteristics are inherent in penoplex?

1. Improved thermal insulation properties. If 10 cm thick foam plastic is needed to insulate a house, then you can replace 5 cm with polystyrene foam.
2. Withstands high mechanical stress.
3. Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
4. There are also soundproofing properties.
5. Penoplex is produced with the addition of fire retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene foam, penoplex is safer.

It is sometimes used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of vapor transmission capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively retain heat inside the house. Therefore, we will consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to insulate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, allowing it to be removed from the substrate much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause a completely opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze.

To insulate the walls, we choose hard mineral wool mats. If you have the financial means, you can take the foil version. A layer of foil will reflect heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material we tightly seal the inter-crown space or cracks that may form on the logs.

Ceiling

You can insulate the ceiling in two ways:

• from the side of the room;
• from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. More rigid materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which they place sheet insulation. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool and even polystyrene foam. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. This can be chipboard slabs, which will protect the insulation from being pressed through.

There is an option when bulk insulation is used, for example, sawdust, gravel. But you need a lot of such materials, which can be even more expensive than using modern insulation.

Floor

The choice of insulation technology for a dilapidated house depends on whether there is basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. There may be no need to further insulate the floor after this.

But if such a need has already been determined, then choose the following options:

1. Laying heated floors (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
2. Use of thermal insulation materials. They choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover it with chipboard or OSB, and then decorate it with the selected flooring material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, you should not neglect the possibility of insulating floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before starting any external work. Especially if the structure is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and thoroughly adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trust the masters, then do not forget to supervise the team. It often happens that workers want to complete the work earlier and are a little slack. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

First, let's prepare the base:

1. Clean all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
2. Remove old decorative coating.
3. Remove hanging structures that will interfere with all work.
4. Close all cracks.
5. Cover by wooden structure protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. This will significantly extend the service life of the base.

If the package says that it is advisable to make several layers, then it is better to do it as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier layer

After the impregnation has completely dried, begin laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and escape outside.

• begin laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
• each subsequent strip overlaps the previous one by 10–15 cm;
• the joints are fixed with tape;
• the membrane itself is secured using a construction stapler.

Installation of sheathing

Wooden bars or metal profiles are used for the frame. If a wooden frame is chosen, then its parts also require special processing in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means you will have to place pegs or cut them off in some places.

With metal everything is much simpler - we take it and install it. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a structure will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether insulation will be used or not, as well as on what kind of decorative material it was decided to install it on the facade.

The rough plan is:

• First we make the markings. The pitch between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
• screw the elements;
• We check how level the parts are installed using a building level.

Installation of heat insulator

The material, which acts as a heat insulator, is placed between the sheathing elements. The mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that no gaps are formed. Mineral wool should not bristle.

If such defects appear, they will subsequently become cold bridges, which will partially or completely eliminate insulation work. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying windproof film

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The installation principle is the same as for vapor barrier film:

1. Let's start working from the bottom.
2. We make vertical stripes.
3. We overlap them by 105-15 cm.
4. We seal the joints with tape.
5. The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the sheathing.

It is appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally secure the insulation and membrane.

Installation of lathing for fastening finishing materials outside

Additional lathing also creates ventilation gap, which allows you to remove steam coming from interior spaces. The gap size can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulating material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As finishing material for a wooden house you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

• completely follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
• fix the parts to the sheathing elements;
• choose dry weather;
• Insulate a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how strong the structure is. If necessary, the walls and foundation need to be strengthened. For those who have never done such a thing, it is better to take care of the construction team and not start experiments.

And those who still decide to do everything on their own should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose insulation and finishing.

Dried wood is not only strong and durable construction material. It also retains heat well.

Thus, the thermal conductivity coefficient of masonry from hollow brick on a solution of cement and sand is 0.52, and the same coefficient for different types of wood is 0.18–0.23. In other words, the tree is approximately 2.5 times retains heat better than ceramic bricks.

However, modern thermal insulation materials are significantly ahead of wood in terms of their ability to retain heat, so many owners of wooden country houses trying to warm them up reducing your costs for heating.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Usually homeowners are interested in how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside under siding, since this technology most simple.

Improve wall insulation can be done in two ways:

• laying material outside;
• laying a heat insulator from the inside.

Inside of wooden houses rarely insulated. About the reasons for this and details of the technology internal insulation can be read in the article “Rules and secrets of insulating walls in a wooden house from the inside.” Next we will consider external thermal insulation wooden building.

Wood as a building material has specific properties things to consider when working with it:

1. This natural material in its raw state is quickly destroyed by fungi and bacteria, which, under favorable conditions, destroy the building in 2-3 years.
2. The wood gradually dries out, decreasing in size. Through the pores, not only its internal moisture evaporates outside, but also water vapor from the room. Vapor permeability, humidity and shrinkage of this building material must be taken into account when carrying out insulation work. Insulation of an old wooden house from the outside possible at any time, and the walls of a new one should be insulated no earlier than three years after construction.

To ensure that these features do not negatively affect the result of work, insulation need to do it this way:

1. Select porous heat insulating material, does not retain moisture and does not interfere with the escape of vapors to the outside. Protect the insulation from drops of water that may fall on it from the outside.
2. If you have to make thermal insulation with a material that does not allow water vapor to pass through, leave a ventilated air gap between the wall and the insulation to remove excess steam.

Most often, after installing thermal insulation, the wall is finished with plaster or siding. In the first case need to be taken into account that the plaster does not allow water vapor to pass through well. This means that with such finishing you need to choose a scheme with an air gap between the wall and the insulation.

When finishing with siding there will be an air gap between it and the thermal insulation. In this case, the heat insulator itself is laid close to the wall. When installing according to these schemes, you will need different insulation materials. Their insulation will also vary.

Choosing insulation

For independent external insulation of a wooden house, materials are usually used in slabs or rolls.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam in various modifications (penoplex or polystyrene foam), and polyethylene foam are suitable for this purpose. Ecowool is also used, but by wet spraying.

Mineral wool — Basalt wool in slabs is best suited for constructing a ventilated façade. It consists of fibers of molten and cooled basalt, bound with a minimal amount of synthetic resin. This is a dense elastic material that retains its shape well.

Mineral wool does not burn, does not support combustion, practically does not absorb moisture, but allows water vapor to pass through well. Combined with a low thermal conductivity coefficient (at a density of 50 kg/m³ it is 0.06 W/m K), these qualities make it one of the best insulation materials wood.

Ecowool is a gray powder containing natural cellulose fibers from waste, boric acid and borax. Boron compounds are non-toxic to humans and animals, but they have a detrimental effect on fungi and bacteria that cause decay. When ecowool is heated by fire, the additives act as fire retardants that extinguish the flame, so this insulation does not burn, but becomes charred.

For independent work Ecowool is not suitable, because it is sprayed wet onto wooden walls using special equipment. In regions with a maritime climate, where the air is very humid in winter, use ecowool doesn't make sense, since it absorbs a lot of water vapor and loses its thermal insulation properties.

Expanded polystyrene— this material is produced in various modifications. Fine-cell penoplex has the best thermal insulation properties. Polystyrene foam, which has larger cells, retains heat somewhat worse.

All modifications of polystyrene foam almost do not absorb water (no more than 2% of the volume) and practically do not allow water vapor to pass through. For this reason, this material is mounted.

Polyethylene foam is a modern heat insulator produced by extrusion. Contains very small gas bubbles. It is manufactured without coating, with one-sided and double-sided coating of aluminum foil.

It is characterized by almost complete vapor permeability. The foil layer reflects thermal radiation, improving thermal insulation properties. This insulation can be used only in ventilated façade.

Mineral wool insulation technology

The mineral wool insulation technology involves laying insulation without an air gap between it and the wall. This is done in this way sequences:

1. Preparing the wall. Before starting work, you should clean, level and protect the wall from fungus and microorganisms. Sold for antifungal treatment special means in solutions. They are applied with a brush and left until completely dry. According to the instructions, processing can be performed several times.
2. Laying waterproofing. Mineral wool fibers can form a small amount of condensate This moisture should not wet the wood. To protect the wood, a waterproofing film is fixed to the surface of the wall, allowing steam to pass through but retaining liquid water. This film is spread on the wall and secured with metal brackets using a stapler. The edges of the panels should overlap by a width of 15 cm. The joints are secured with construction tape.


3. Lathing. A sheathing of bars is constructed on top of the waterproofing film to secure the thermal insulation. For a single-layer installation you will need bars 50×50 mm, for a two-layer installation - 50×100 mm (with a thickness of mineral wool sheets of 50 mm). The bars are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws vertically, installing them on the edge and controlling the work with a level. The distance between the bars should be 4–5 cm less than the width of the mineral wool sheets. In this case, the elastic slabs of material are well held between the bars.
4. Laying mineral wool. The insulation boards are laid end-to-end between the bars and then secured to the wall with screws with mushrooms. If two layers are laid (in areas with harsh climates), then the second layer of slabs is installed according to the principle brickwork: The top sheet should overlap the junction of the two bottom sheets.
5. Fastening wind and waterproofing. The wind is fixed on top of the thermal insulation waterproofing membrane. This is a film coating that prevents wind from destroying mineral wool and protects it from raindrops. This film easily allows water vapor to pass through. Fasten it with a stapler to the sheathing with an overlap.

1. Finishing. For finishing with this method of insulation, it is best to use vinyl siding. To attach it to the sheathing bars, slats with a cross section of 30×50 mm are screwed with self-tapping screws. Fasteners are screwed onto these slats with screws, and then the siding is snapped onto them.

Finishing They also do it with plaster. But it cannot be applied to mineral wool, as this will significantly worsen vapor permeability. Instead of siding, you can attach sheets of foam plastic to the slats, and then apply plaster to them.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam

Insulating a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam (penoplex or polystyrene foam) is also easy to do with your own hands. The installation is done like this technologies:

1. Treating a wall against fungus produced in the same way as when using mineral wool.
2. After the preparation has dried, attach it to the wall using self-tapping screws. the lathing is fixed from vertical beams with a cross section of 50×50 mm. The distance between the beams should be no greater than the width of the polystyrene foam sheets, so that insulation sheets can be conveniently attached to this layer of beams in the future.
3. A vapor barrier film is stretched and stapled onto the sheathing. Instead, you can nail a layer of foiled polyethylene foam (penofol) with foil towards the wall. The edges of this heat insulator are placed end to end, the joints are sealed with metallized tape. Thus, an air gap of 50 mm thickness remains between the vapor barrier layer and the wall to remove water vapor.


4. An additional sheathing is placed on top of the film or penofol on the bars. from horizontal beams. The thickness of the beams is selected in such a way that after laying the thermal insulation, the surface of the polystyrene foam sheets is flush with the outer surface of the beams. It is easy to apply plaster on such a smooth surface.
5. Expanded polystyrene sheets are laid on horizontal beams, securing them with screws with mushrooms to vertical bars previous sheathing. If necessary, apply several layers of insulation overlapping.
6. On top of a layer of polystyrene foam on the sheathing secure the reinforcing mesh and then apply plaster.

In this case The thermal insulation layer is protected not only from water, but also from steam. Steam leaking through a wooden wall evaporates through the air gap between the insulation and the wall. Despite the low thermal conductivity of wood, it makes sense to insulate the walls of a wooden house with modern thermal insulators, since their thermal conductivity is much lower.

Laying of thermal insulation should begin after completion of the shrinkage of the new house. To insulate a wooden house, you can use materials of different properties, but subject to the condition of free release of steam through the pores of the wood.

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside under siding, watch the video:

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Insulation scheme for wooden facades

1. At the first stage, antifungal treatment of the walls is performed.

2. Laying a vapor barrier layer. Its task is to protect it from getting wet and at the same time provide ventilation to the façade.

Acceptable options for creating a parabarrier are the following:

• polyethylene film (not thinner than 0.1 mm);
• bitumen roofing felt;
• aluminum foil 0.02 mm thick;
• special film for vapor barrier.

If the frame is made of round logs, then the ventilation gap is formed naturally, and buildings with smooth walls require vertical slats of 2-2.5 cm in size, located around the perimeter at intervals of about 1 m. A vapor barrier is attached to the frame, treating all places where it connects with slats with bitumen mastic.

3. Thermal insulation. The lathing is made from boards with a cross-section of 5x10 cm. They are nailed to the walls so as to form deep niches, the width of which is 20 mm less than the width of the slabs (for dense installation). Insulation of the facade of a wooden house with mineral wool is carried out in two layers with overlapping joints. To do this, take elastic plates with a rigidity of at least 90 kg/m3. They do not need to be specially secured to prevent unnecessary cold bridges from appearing.

4. Waterproofing. On top of the frame, a waterproofing film is attached to the boards with staples, which does not allow external moisture to pass through and is permeable to internal steam. After this, the frame for cladding is stuffed, creating the necessary ventilation gap (its underside is insulated from mice and insects steel mesh with small cells).

Insulation frame house outside

The base of the house is constructed from timber sheathed with massive OSB boards. The resulting inter-wall space is filled with insulation. To insulate frame buildings, the same materials are installed as for wooden houses, protecting them with a vapor barrier and a wind membrane. If visible indoors high humidity, polystyrene foam materials are undesirable.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation is carried out in stages:

• the leveled surface of the base is cleaned and primed with a weak concentration of adhesive solution;
• lay a waterproofing layer that protects the walls from external moisture and dampness. It is better to use glassine or modern membrane coatings as waterproofing;
• Penoplex slabs are fixed with glue, after drying, the sheets are screwed with plastic dowels (metal ones contribute to heat loss);
• Apply a protective layer by plastering the slabs with pre-attached reinforced mesh twice. At the end, the walls are covered with facade paint.

What you need to know about insulating a house from the inside

If desired, along with the external one, internal insulation of the housing is carried out. This is done if it allows inner space Houses. Used as a frame aluminum profiles: they are preferable wooden slats thanks to dimensional accuracy. Sequence of operations:

• pasting walls with waterproofing;
• installation of a layer of mineral wool between the guides. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of it, which is glued with tape directly to the metal profile;
• installation plasterboard sheets and final finishing.

Related articles:

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Types of thermal insulation materials

When deciding whether it is necessary to insulate a wooden house, you should know that it depends on how well it is built. With the correct wall thickness (in accordance with winter temperatures in the region), additional thermal insulation is unlikely to be needed. Where it is cold, insulate the building from natural wood definitely necessary. At the same time, it is important to choose the right materials. Not everything is recommended for use on the exterior walls of a wooden house.

Thermal insulation log house

Important. Insulation materials are divided into natural and artificial. The first ones “breathe” and do not disturb the microclimate of the building. The latter are more affordable, but are not always safe for health.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? This question always remains open. Adherents of natural materials are happy to use mats made of seaweed (damask) and hemp (hemp fiber), despite their high cost, and adobe. Those who do not disdain artificial thermal insulation most often use the following insulation materials:

• mineral (glass, stone, basalt wool);
• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• ecowool;
• polystyrene foam and penoplex.

What material should I use to insulate the walls if the choice is so wide? You need to start from the technical characteristics of insulation.

Mineral wool

This is a classic insulation for walls, and not only wooden ones. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.033–0.046 W/(m*C) depending on the density, water absorption is 0.49–0.6 Mg/(m*h*Pa). Basalt wool is the most expensive type. It does not burn, does not rot or mold, it allows steam to pass through perfectly and does not get wet.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Material made from glass waste is not recommended for use due to fairly large shrinkage and high water absorption. Stone wool is a good option with an average thermal conductivity and a fairly attractive price. Water absorption coefficient is 2% of the total volume.

Insulating the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool is a fairly economical option. If slabs are used, installation is quick and you can do without an assistant.

PPU

Polyurethane foam is a new generation material. This is sprayed thermal insulation with a minimum coefficient of water absorption (0.05) and thermal conductivity (0.023–0.041). Moreover, the denser the material, the higher the thermal conductivity. Polyurethane foam “envelops” the structure with a whitish or cream-colored fur coat, preventing moisture or cold air from entering. Vapor permeability is almost zero. Finishing required.

Thermal insulation of a log house with polyurethane foam

The opinion of experts regarding the use of polyurethane foam as insulation differs. Some believe that it should not be used for wooden buildings. The tree does not breathe under it and slowly collapses. Others believe that if you correctly calculate the thickness of polyurethane foam for wooden walls, the surface will always be dry and protected from rot. Moisture exchange characteristic of wood will occur not outdoors, but indoors.

Important. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside (external) is preferable to internal insulation. In this case, the dew point moves closer to the street, and the tree will be dry.

Penoizol

Insulation with a high coefficient of water absorption, weak resistance to mechanical stress, mandatory installation of wind and moisture protection is required. Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.031–0.041, water absorption up to 20% of its own weight. It evaporates moisture quite quickly. Lightweight, suitable for ventilated facades.

Ecowool

Natural, environmentally friendly pure material from paper production waste - waste paper. Thermal conductivity is comparable to polyurethane foam 0.032–0.041. Water absorption is lower than that of mineral wool - up to 1% of the total volume. Installation is carried out using the method of dry backfilling or wet spraying onto a surface with a pre-installed sheathing.

Ecowool

Ecowool is the right choice for insulating the external walls of a house. This material should be considered a priority, including for independent work.

Expanded polystyrene

Despite their popularity due to their low cost and availability (you can buy them at any hardware store), polystyrene foam and penoplex are not recommended for insulating wooden walls.

Thermal insulation of a frame house with penoplex

• easily ignite, although modern technology makes it possible to reduce the indicator as much as possible when using various fire retardant additives;
• when burning they release toxic substances;
• become moldy over time;
• short-lived.

Thermal insulation of a log house with foam plastic

Polystyrene foam and penoplex are often used to insulate the base of a wooden house. This part of the building is usually concrete or brick. The material is glued special composition, is additionally secured with dowels and plastered or covered with some kind of light finishing. This is the best use of thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate the base and also protect the foundation from freezing.

Thermal insulation methods

The most correct insulation of a wooden house with outside– arrangement of ventilation façade. In this case, the thermal insulation does not come into contact with the wood. Between the walls and the insulating “pie” there is small space where air masses move freely.

Frame house thermal insulation pie

Another possible, but more labor-intensive method is a false wall arranged according to frame-panel technology. The space between it and the monolithic surface is filled thermal insulation material. You can do this design yourself, but it is better to entrust the work to professionals. Specialists will make calculations to determine the optimal thickness of thermal insulation.

Important. A false wall cannot hang in the air or rest on the ground, so you will have to make a light foundation, which means additional financial costs.

The “wet facade” technology is also used to insulate wooden buildings. However, in this case all the charm of a structure made of natural wood is lost. The material is glued to the walls and additionally secured with umbrella dowels, a fine mesh is attached on top and plastered. This method is unlikely to be suitable for a log house.

Thermal insulation pie for a log or log house

Self-insulation technology: step-by-step instructions

Polyurethane foam and penoizol, although they are technical specifications preferred thermal insulation, are not suitable for self-installation, so if you are planning to insulate the facade with your own hands, it is better to use mineral and paper wool (ecowool).

Tools and materials

To work you will need:

• sandpaper (coarse, medium);
• universal impregnation;
• brushes or rollers for applying impregnation;
• material for sealing cracks (caulking);
• timber for sheathing;
• saw for cutting materials;
• fastening elements (nails, anchors);
• hammer;
• construction stapler;
• heat insulators (mineral wool, ecowool);
• plywood (for dry laying ecowool);
• vapor barrier and waterproofing films;
• finishing (block house, siding, clinker panels, lining - to choose from).

Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the surface. This applies to any building made of wood - timber, frame-panel, log house, and especially to old buildings. Ideally, they go over the wood with coarse sandpaper, removing dirt, efflorescence, greasy stains, old finishing. Then sweep with a broom to remove dust.

The next stage is impregnation. Choose a universal one, which protects against wood-boring beetles, mold and rot, and fire. After complete drying, begin insulation.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: ventilated facade

Technology for insulating the walls of a wooden house from the outside:

1. Seal all cracks. Use caulking material.
2. Install a horizontal sheathing for ventilation (the height of the slats is up to 0.5 cm).
3. Using a construction stapler, secure the vapor barrier film to the sheathing. Tape the joints with construction tape.
4. Make the next layer of sheathing perpendicular to the first (the thickness of the timber is slightly greater than the thickness of the mineral wool). The pitch is 1 cm smaller than the width of the thermal insulation material.
5. Place mineral wool slabs in the resulting cavities.
6. If the household is located in the northern regions, install another sheathing, placing the beam perpendicular to the beam of the first layer, and lay mineral wool slabs - now all cold bridges are blocked.
7. Stretch the waterproofing membrane. The side that absorbs moisture should face the insulation. Secure the film with a stapler. Seal the joints with construction tape.

Mineral wool counter-grid

The process ends with finishing - you can sheathe the outside of a wooden house vinyl siding, clapboard, block house.

Ecowool thermal insulation

Before buying this insulation, you need to calculate its optimal thickness. Ecowool is sold in briquettes, highly compressed. Before starting work, it needs to be fluffed up. Typically a construction mixer is used for these purposes. Place the bale of ecowool in a large container and “whip” it.

Manual installation ecowool

Insulation scheme:

1. Make a zero sheathing.
2. Stretch the vapor barrier membrane.
3. Make the first level of sheathing (the thickness of the timber should be equal to the thickness of the ecowool layer).
4. Stretch a moisture-proof film over the outside of the sheathing.
5. Install the first row of plywood.
6. Start laying ecowool into the resulting cavities. Apply in layers and tamp down with your hands or something more convenient, such as a homemade compactor like a short trowel.
7. As soon as the ecowool level is equal to the top edge of the plywood and springs under your hands, install another row of chipboard and repeat all the manipulations.
8. Continue until the wall is completely insulated.

Important. This good way thermal insulation, however, there is a possibility of leaving small voids at the very top. In the case of ecowool, however the best option– invite a specialist who, using a special installation, will blow the material into the cavity under pressure.

Mechanical blowing of ecowool

Log building

How to properly insulate log house while keeping the wood intact? Use ventilation facade technology. Only here the installation of a zero sheathing is not required - the one on which the vapor barrier is attached. The log has a semicircular shape, so there is no need to further raise the level - the air gap is provided by the characteristics of the building material.

You can insulate a log house from the outside with either mineral wool or ecowool. Both materials are breathable, so they do not interfere with the natural moisture exchange of wood with the environment.

If the building is old

In this case, all the steps described in the insulation technology based on the principle of a ventilated facade are followed. True, a more thoughtful approach to preliminary preparation is required.

Ventilated façade lathing

To insulate an old wooden house:

1. Remove old trim from the walls - strip it down to the wood itself.
2. Examine the tree for cavities from wood-boring beetles. Large ones will need to be reached, treated with impregnations, dried and puttied.
3. Treat with an antiseptic and, after drying, with a fire retardant compound.
4. After the walls have dried, insulate them with mineral wool.

Insulating an old wooden structure is a slightly more labor-intensive, but feasible task for doing it yourself. Be sure to select the appropriate type of finish.

Frame and panel structures

They are thermally insulated in the same way as any wooden buildings. Do not use polystyrene foam, even if you really want to save money. You can insulate a frame house from the outside with ecowool - this is an ideal option. Use dry backfill (the technology is described above) or call a professional who will spray the moistened material directly onto the wooden walls of the house. Second option thermal insulation characteristics much better.

Insulate outside panel house You can use mineral wool. Use several battens to completely block the cold bridges. And don't forget about the ventilation gap. The block house finish is the closest imitation of timber.

Important. Don't forget to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. This is especially important if the attic is cold.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation

In order for the thermal insulation of a wooden house to be done correctly, before starting work, you need to do correct calculations. Wood has low thermal conductivity and is able to accumulate heat and then release it slowly. A house made of wood, covered from the outside with “alien” material, loses its naturalness. If you cannot do without additional thermal insulation, carry out thermal protection wisely - protect not only the walls, but also the basement, foundation, floor, roof and attic from the cold.

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Despite the fact that wooden walls retain heat better than concrete and brick, they also need high-quality insulation. Over time, the wood shrinks, cracks appear at the corners and along the seams, cracks form in the timber itself, through which cold penetrates into the house. Thermal insulation will help get rid of these problems, and at the same time reduce heating costs, and significantly. But first you need to decide how to insulate a wooden house from the outside in order to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the rooms and extend the life of the wood itself.

Any wood has the ability to absorb moisture. Treatment with various impregnations significantly reduces the hygroscopicity of the material, but cannot completely eliminate it. With normal ventilation, moisture effectively evaporates without having a negative effect on the material, and an optimal microclimate is maintained in the house. But a violation of air exchange leads to the accumulation of condensation and swelling of the wood, as a result of which fungi develop in it, rot appears, and the air in the house becomes musty.

To avoid such problems, you should follow several rules:

• do not insulate damp walls;
• use only vapor-permeable insulation;
• The thermal insulation on both sides must be covered with a waterproofing membrane;
• between finishing and leave an air gap with insulation.

Waterproofing scheme and proper insulation wooden house

If you plan to paint wooden walls or you only need to insulate the seams, paint and sealant are also chosen that are vapor-permeable, for example, on acrylic base. And, of course, before insulation, the surface must be well prepared, cleaned of dirt, moss, mold, and repaired. It is especially important that there are no wood-boring beetles in the walls, because under a layer of insulation they will continue their destructive activity until the tree becomes unusable.

Types of insulation for wooden structures

Choice modern insulation materials wide, but not all of them are vapor permeable. Mineral wool materials and cellulose insulation, or ecowool, are most suitable for wooden houses. Let's take a closer look at their characteristics.

This insulation is produced from rock melts, most often from basalt. In addition to stone fibers, the insulation contains a binder (formaldehyde resins, urea) and water-repellent additives. Stone wool refers to non-flammable materials, withstands heating up to 600°C without change physical properties, has low thermal conductivity and high vapor permeability. It is produced in slabs and mats, and can be coated with foil, fiberglass and kraft paper.

Basalt slabs are quite dense and rigid, they retain their shape perfectly throughout their service life and almost do not shrink, provided that the thermal insulation is carried out according to all the rules. This insulation is also resistant to microorganisms, which is also a big advantage. The correct shape and light weight of the slabs allow installation without much effort; moreover, basalt fibers are not scratchy and do not cause irritation to the skin.

As for the disadvantages, stone wool has very few. The main disadvantage is the fragility of the fibers - when squeezing and cutting the material, fine dust is formed that easily penetrates the respiratory tract. Because of this, it is recommended to work in a respirator. Another disadvantage is the high cost of insulation, so if you have a limited budget, you should look for other options.

Specifications

Slag wool

The raw materials for the manufacture of this insulation are blast furnace slag, that is, metallurgical waste, which causes the low cost of the material. The thermal conductivity of slag wool is slightly higher than that of basalt insulation, and the maximum heating temperature is 300°C, after which the fibers begin to sinter and the material loses its characteristics.

Slag wool is produced in rolls and slabs, often with a foil coating. It is not particularly rigid, and therefore is excellent for thermal insulation of curved surfaces - it can easily be given any shape. Slag wool retains heat well, effectively absorbs sounds, and rodents and insects do not like it. Mold does not develop in such insulation either.

But slag wool also has a lot of disadvantages: it is hygroscopic, does not tolerate temperature changes well, and when wet it releases acid, which corrodes the metal. Its brittle fibers are almost as sharp as glass wool and cause irritation if they come into contact with the skin. When installing insulation, be sure to use protective equipment to avoid particles getting into your eyes and respiratory tract.

Specifications

Glass wool

The insulation is made from molten glass with the addition of limestone, dolomite, borax and some other components. The binder is synthetic polymers, less often bitumen. Glass wool has the longest fibers (from 15 to 50 mm), due to which the material is noticeably superior in elasticity and resilience to other types of mineral wool, and also has a high mechanical strength at low density.

Glass wool is vapor permeable, retains heat well, and is not afraid of exposure to chemically aggressive substances. It is non-flammable, can withstand heating up to 450°C without changing its physical characteristics, and is not affected by sudden temperature changes. Like others mineral wool insulation, glass wool is produced in slabs, rolls and mats, including those coated with foil and fiberglass.

The biggest disadvantage of glass wool is the fragility and thorniness of the fibers, which can cause severe irritation on the skin and penetrate the respiratory tract and eyes.

Light clothing cannot protect against thin and sharp particles, so for work you need to choose something thicker, be sure to use a respirator, goggles and rough gloves.

Specifications

To produce ecowool, waste from the paper and cardboard industry is used, and 80% of this insulation consists of natural cellulose. To improve the characteristics, cellulose fibers are mixed with fire retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool has the ability to absorb and release moisture without changing the thermal insulation properties, and if you insulate the walls with it, condensation will never appear in the room. In addition, it absorbs sounds well, dampens vibrations, and does not emit harmful substances. Thanks to the presence of insecticidal additives, this insulation does not harbor insects, and rodents rarely damage it.

Ecowool components

The insulation is a very loose light mass gray, which is tightly packed in bags of 15 kg. Immediately before insulation, the mass is poured out of the bag and loosened using a mixer, and then laid by hand or machine. The effectiveness of thermal insulation directly depends on the density of the layer: lightly compacted material quickly shrinks and forms cold bridges, while a densely laid coating does not change its characteristics throughout its entire service life.

The main disadvantage of ecowool is its installation technology. A pneumatic installation is expensive and requires certain skills to work with it, so it is better to hire specialists for mechanical blowing.

The manual laying method takes a lot of time, the material is distributed less evenly, and tamping requires more physical effort.

Specifications

Prices for mineral wool

Insulation of walls with mineral wool slabs

Insulation with mineral wool does not require any special skills, so anyone can handle it if they wish. To do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to stock up in advance necessary tools, correctly calculate the amount of materials, carefully prepare the surface.

Advice. New wooden houses are subject to shrinkage, so insulation and exterior decoration It is best to start a couple of years after the construction of the structure.

Tools and materials

In the process of arranging thermal insulation you will need:

To find out how many slabs will be needed for insulation, you need to calculate the total area of ​​the walls, subtract the area of ​​the openings from it and divide by the area of ​​one slab.

Typically, slabs have standard dimensions of 1200x600 mm, that is, the area is 0.72 m2. Having determined the estimated quantity, you need to increase it by 5-7%, since part of the material will be used for trimming near the openings. If the insulation is planned to be laid in 2 layers, the resulting number is multiplied by 2.

The sheathing can be assembled from metal profiles, but for wooden walls a beam with a section of 50x50 mm is more suitable.

Prices for various types of timber

For a double layer of insulation, you should take a beam with a cross-section of 100x50 or 100x40 mm and install it on the edge.

The lumber must be dry, smooth, without defects; before starting work, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnation and dried.

Preparing the base

The outside of the house should be insulated when it is dry. warm weather so that the walls are not damp or frozen. The surface should be free of dirt, dust, moss, fungi and mold. Interventional seams must be carefully inspected and, where there are voids, re-sealed with sealant and covered with sealant. Deep cracks in the wood itself are also sealed in the same way.

The next stage is priming. The primer is applied with a brush, carefully treating all the recesses, irregularities, and end cuts of the logs. If the wood absorbs the composition too quickly, it is recommended to apply a primer in 2 layers. After this, you need to wait until the surface is completely dry and only then begin the main process.

Prices for wood preservatives

Wall insulation

Step 1. A vapor barrier layer is attached. The membrane is located in horizontal stripes, starting from the bottom of the walls, and is fixed with staplers. The upper fabric should overlap the lower one by 10-15 cm, the joint is taped along the entire length.

Advice. Do not replace the membrane with ordinary polyethylene film. Polyethylene is vapor-proof, so the fumes will settle on the walls as condensation, causing damage to the wood. The membrane is inexpensive and can be bought at any hardware store, so there is no benefit from using polyethylene.

Step 2. The outer beams of the sheathing are leveled at a distance of 5-10 cm from the corner and screwed to the walls with self-tapping screws. The remaining guides are attached so that the distance between them is 10 mm less than the width of the insulation. Each rack is controlled by a level so that all sheathing elements are located in the same plane.

Step 3. Mineral wool slabs are placed tightly into the cells of the sheathing, trying not to leave gaps, and then additionally fixed with disc dowels. The second layer of insulation must be laid so that the joints between the slabs of the first layer overlap.

Laying mineral wool slabs. In the photo you can see the mistake of the builders - the lack of an insulating membrane between the wool and the wooden wall

Step 4. The protective membrane is again attached over the insulation, securing it with staples in the same way and gluing the joints with tape. The material sheets should fit snugly to the base, without sagging or folds.

You can also use another method - frameless, when instead of timber guides, metal U-shaped suspensions are attached to the walls at equal distances. Neat slits are made in mineral slabs assembly knife and thread the ears of the suspensions into them. Additionally, the insulation is fixed with mushroom dowels. The thermal insulation is covered with a membrane on top, and a sheathing made of timber or profile is mounted on the hangers.

Prices for vapor barrier materials

Vapor barrier material

Ecowool insulation

Markings are made on the walls for the sheathing and vertical guides made of timber are installed. The distance between them is 50-60 cm. Next, the sheathing is covered with moisture-resistant OSB boards, but not to the full height, but about 80-100 cm from the ground. Be sure to sew up the bottom with boards. Next you will need a large wide container and a drill with a mixer attachment. The ecowool is unpacked, poured into a container, and fluffed with a mixer at low speed so that no lumps remain.

The prepared insulation is poured between the wall and the sheathing, and carefully compacted, carefully filling the corners and recesses. When the cavity is filled almost to the top, the next row of sheathing is fastened, controlling the position of the slabs by level. It is most difficult to distribute the insulation at the very top of the sheathing, so you need to work slowly, very carefully, trying to compact the material as much as possible. After attaching the top sheets, the sheathing is primed and finishing is begun.

It is more effective to apply ecowool wet method using installation. In this case, the guide posts are mounted in increments of 1-1.2 m. The insulation is poured into a container and water is added in small portions until the mass becomes sticky. Next, using the installation, ecowool is applied to the walls in a continuous, uniform layer and left until completely dry. Excess material protruding above the plane of the frame is carefully cut off. After the thermal insulation has dried, a windproof membrane is attached and the finishing is performed.

Video - How to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Video - Insulation of walls with ecowool